We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!
A really good point is that the fiber/mat works really well when you have curved areas of your project to get around. It allows the material to go around the rounded areas and does not leave a wrinkle or high spots which eliminates having to do a relief cut. Cool video though I really dig it. I'm a girl and I love working with fiberglass Bondo all that good stuff. Right now I'm doing my boyfriend's headliner. I'm making a fiberglass mold of it and then I'm going to finish up with a layer of carbon fiber to make it look badass. 🤞 Fingers crossed!
Mind blown. Can't thank you enough for sharing this valuable knowledge. I'm restoring a 45' south african power cat. Needs some fiberglass work, and out where I'm at, there's no one do do it unless you want to pull it out of the water and let it sit out of service for months. Now I feel confident taking on some of the small work that needs to be done.
@@FishBumpTV I've been using CSM with Epoxy for years. Not the typical CSM which is emulsion bonded but CSM which is powder bonded specifically formulated for use with Epoxy resins and saturates very well.
Thanks again for another tip on pulling the mat against a straight edge to feather the edge. I always cut and pulled to feather the edge. Not any more .Thanks
Thanks for all your videos. I've been binge watching. I'm currently doing a restoration on a 24 foot Morgan. It had a yanmar diesel in it and I'm converting to an outboard. It's a lot of work. Your videos definitely inspire me. Thanks again. One Tip that I have learned. Use your little acetone bottle. Draw a line with acetone and it rips really easy on mat
Nice and concise Capitan! A follow up video would be appreciated: How do you come up with a layup schedule? How thick is a layer of cloth? Do you always do mat first and last, or is it not needed first with the xx08 fabrics? i.e. 1.5 oz mat - 1708 - 1808 - 1708 -1.5oz mat? Mat matters more for visual finished surface, or is it needed to hold extra resin for a good bond (or both)? How do you estimate how much material to buy? is there an waste percentage that is common, 10%? How much resin/yard would you estimate? How many layers can do in a single layup? How do you decide to have a core vs solid glass?
Depends on what you are doing but always put first and last mat it gives better finish and let you easier remove bubbles from product than when you leave rowing mat Layer of mat 450 gram is about 0.8mm with resin and its about 1 kg its very dependent on temperature with higher temperature you use less resin its just more liquid water like when in low temps it gets more jelly and you ideally should put about 70% of fiberglass but its kinda unrealistic in hand made laminate its way easier to work with it if you put more resin :S Material is estimated by square meters at least here in eu and yea 10% is about right but ISO reduces it to like 6% or something around You see if you put mat and rowing on gelcoat you get nasty looking imprint of rowing so to avid that you should put like 3 or 4 layers of mat and then put rowing How many layers you can put at once? well it also depends on what initiator you use with peroxide its about 5 "450 mat+650 rowing in m+r+m+r+m" but it also varies with temperature with about 27c you get first curing in about an hour with 1% of initiator "1% its 10ml of initiator for 1kg of resin" when in 20c you put like 2% with curox initiator you can put up to 9 layers also depends on temperature be aware tho product may bend or warp in a undesired way its better to put less layers at the time most of the time you decide by cost for example you need to laminate some part non visible in the end so you put two mat layers and call it a day if you use mat rowing mat you use more materials than needed to achieve the same result for example you make a form and you want to reinforce walls so the keep shape so instead of putting few more layers you put instead few pieces of wood planks and laminate them with two mats and get sturdy wall for cheep we use steel beams "heavy" or wood planks "mid" poliuretan foam "light" for reinforcements for good bond its better to know time of curing for gelcoat its better to put mat layers when gelcoat is harden and slighty sticky or when is squeeky when move your fingers on surface for mat its better when its harden and dry try to scratch it using metal blade or nail if leave scratch its good to go if leaves hairs then wait and before putting another layers just sand it a little for better bonding about gramature of fiber glass mat for more complicated shapes put smaller gramature like 150 for first layer when less complicated or flat surfaces you can put like 450 or 800 gram mat for rowing for flat its good 90 degre single woven but for complicated shapes its better double woven rowing
Great information. I'm getting ready to do some small boat repairs. What about information on the weights of the different CSM? 1 Oz or 1.5 Oz and when to use either. Thank you so much for the great information you provide.
Thanks! 1oz is just easier to wet out because it is thinner material than 1.5 oz. They make 3/4 Oz, but I find it to be somewhat delicate to handle. Just remember that csm doesn't work well with epoxy resins. Polyester and vinyl Ester are fine with csm. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Capt Joe appreciate y'all sharing these products was also hoping for a video with a more in depth mixing MEKP simplifying the process so everyone can achieve great finish results this process not to waste material and time Thanks fish bump family!
I ask you on another video what glass to use, well I was going through you videos and found my answer, your a awesome teacher thanks for all you do for us pofolks, God bless and keep up the great work.
This is great information. I want to build up the inside of my center console cause its too thin to mount any new electronics to and I want to redo all the wiring and want to design build my wiring since I am an electrician by trade. Was thinking plywood but I'm more leaning towards glassing in some coosa board instead.
Hello Joe, I’m restoring a 1973 VIP Bay Stealth. Do I need to remove all the gelcoat in the hull, before laying in new glass? Or can I do a rough sanding and lay in the glass?
I usually recommend removing all of the gelcoat and get down to solid fiberglass. I usually use a 24 grit sanding disc to put a very aggressive tooth or surface on the original fiberglass so that the new fiberglass can bond better. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. I'm learning about this now and would appreciate more videos like this. Thumbs way up and Subscribed. 👍🏿 What are the dimensions of your shop?
Thanks again Capt Joe I’m interested in the electric cutter didn’t see it in notes , brand & model I’ve got a small battery 1 it works well but to small, I enjoy working on boats as a hobby not job helping a friend restr. 73 seacraft & after that a73-19’ mako total restoration (my dad’s) thanks again for sharing 👍👍
I'm so late being here. But this is the best lesson for beginners like me who are going to make a simple boat. Thank you for this content. My one question, what do you think of Phill Bolger's boat? Looks like I will make a boat design like the one he made. I ask for your opinion.
Glad it helped! Tearing small widths is more difficult than wide, but it can be done with some practice. If you want a torn edge on one side and straight on the other, you can tear a wide strip and then split it down the middle with a straight edge and a razor blade. Thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV I generally cut with knife and feather the edge with side of blade - stripping off hard edge . Learnt that building house boats in Victoria Australia 🦘
This boat I put up in 1992 after using it for roughly 6 years. Idk anything about fiberglass so you really help explain that to do in what situation. It won't let me update it, but it's a 6.5" speed boat about the size of a jetski.
Just bought some 1708 and using it for the first time glassing down a new deck made of FRP..fiberglassed reinforced plywood from Fibertech..we’ll see how it holds up
Thanks for the great videos. Keep them up I’m not working on a boat I’m working on car parts. Wondering how you do sharp edges like on a fender or a hood when it comes to the edge how do you get them to the bond together or never done it like to know, thanks again
Glad you are enjoying the videos! I have done some body work on cars and trucks in the past, but boats are obviously our main area of expertise. If I understand you correctly, I would feather or transition the glass as you get to the edges or seams of the fender or hood. If it is a body line, or crease you may have to use a premium body filler or putty to get the shape you need. I will try to do a video on body work and fairing out glass soon. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Thanks! If you want it smooth, you could sand and fair it, or you might consider using peel ply over the epoxy. Peel ply will really help smooth the surface, remove any amine blush from the epoxy, and leave a perfect texture for paint or more epoxy. I have a recent video on Peel Ply that would be helpful, and Fiberglass warehouse has peel ply and a discount code for fish bump tv viewers that will save you some money. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching!
Boat hull laminate schedules can vary greatly. Our 29 custom has 10 layers on the bottom and 6 on the sides. Smaller boat that see lighter service could possibly use half of that many layers, and would probably be fine. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
In this area, they call the CSM matt "angel hair" and the roven woven "matt". Only other thing they use is "chopped glass" which everyone seems to hate. Funny how you get colloquial terms in different areas.
@@FishBumpTV roger that, thanks for the tip and thanks for the discount code, ordered a BUNCH of stuff from Fiberglass Warehouse down here in Sarasota.
Thanks for the great videos! I’m about to start repairing a hole on my 1976 Fairline Phantom 32. May I ask if standard mat and woven roving will be sufficient for the job? Or should I use some biaxial fabric like you did on your repair video? The damage on my boat looks similar and might be a through hole. If the standard mat and woven roving is sufficient, what thickness should I buy regarding woven roving?
Glad you are enjoying the videos! Yes, you can use mat and woven roven instead of 1708 if you prefer. Just remember to always start and finish with mat. It bonds better on the first layer than roven, and has better cosmetics on the last coat. I like 18 Oz roven personally. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
It has a different binder in it that is designed to work well with epoxy. It seems crazy that it is not available here in the States, or at least I haven't found a source for it. Thanks for watching!
Great videos! Love the content. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the world. Question. Can you use polyester resin with 1708? I am trying to purchase one resin that will work with CSM and 1708. Thanks!
It varies from boat to boat. Large boats require more glass than small ones. Commercial work boats are usually built heavier than pleasure boats. So there are many factors. Also just plain experience working with many boat of different sizes you get to see what works. Our 29 ft custom charter boat we built has 2 layers of 1.5 Oz csm for a skin coat, then 10 layers of biaxial on the hull bottom. That yields around a 1/2 inch thick laminate on all flat panels. Nearly 1 inch where it laps in the keel and chines. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
understand CSM not working with epoxy, Question, can you use epoxy as a second layer after glassing with laminating resin? will epoxy adhere over the resin once you apply the second layer of, say of 1708. Great videos.
Thanks! I don't use much of the bondo brand resins, and resins can vary a good bit in what they can do. It is possible it could work well, but it is hard to say for sure. Wish I could help more.
Capt joe, I see in your videos you lay up your coosa with alot of vinyl Esther resin and you run 1708 by axial and finish it off with CSM is that because your CSM does not have styrene bonding in it ?
question, is there a version of mat that does work with epoxy? because i really like the way you use the mat to feather out and hide the edges of the roving and the 1708 on the other vids where you showed how to fiberglass plywood, but i was wanting to use epoxy for a project i'm planning
I have a 89 celebrity that has cracks in the strakes and was wondering what you suggest using to repair the cracks. They are leaking water into my boat. Thank you
That could be a serious structural problem and might require some serious fiberglass repair work. Most damage on boats could be considered cosmetic, but if it is leaking water into the hull, that would be structural damage. We have not done any videos on that kind of repair work, and it might be something you should talk to a repair shop about. At least see what they would have to say. Hope this helps and thanks for watching
I am doing a complete overhaul on a 1996 angler center console. I have replaced everything with coosa board. I am now doing the floor and I have 2 pieces that are 1/2" thick woth off set joints nonetheless floor. I have 1 layer of 1808 down now and it feels solid. Should I put another layer of 1808 down then glass the console in or just glass the console in ?
Every boat project is different, but we usually go on the heavy duty side when doing glass work. When in doubt we usually add another layer. I hope this helps and best of luck with your project!
The main fiberglass strands run in a 45 degree orientation relative to the roll itself. 1808 fabric runs at a 90 degree orientation to the roll. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I like the 1 Oz mat personally. I would rather do more coats with a lighter weight mat, than less coats with a thicker one. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Thanks! Sorry for the confusion. It would be 1708, not owe 8. We appreciate all of our viewers, and I am working on adding more metric measurements and easier to understand pronunciations for everyone. It is a work in progress for sure!
Tearing the Matte is the same principle as finish drywall or using body filler and even spray painting.. We call it feathering out the edges. Tearing the matte creates the feathering effect when transitioning to another surface. It can reduce or even remove the visual layer change.
Which one would you use for difficult shapes like the rounded corner of a heelcup? Does the extra thin mat wrap around those areas or should I cut several overlapping shapes? And what might be a good pressure if I do a positive and a negative mould and press the fiber together?
The mat works very good around difficult shapes when used with polyester or vinyl Ester resins. The light weight finishing cloth works well with epoxy around difficult shapes. I don't every use two part molds, so I don't have a answer for that one. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@IngeBall Do you know a european online shop, that sells s2- fiberglass in satin? (Taxes and shipping make me pay double the price in such low quantities). And google seems to hide them.
I've never done any fiberglass work or anything remotely close and I'm undertaking a resto job on my 27' 93 chaparral cabin, so I'm studying these videos 😅
You never stated why chop & strand mat isn't used with epoxy and what is used for it. Can you please elaborate? Also what's the diff btwn epoxy and poly? (I hate watching vids that are abreviated and leave holes in knowledge). This is complicated. So mat works with woven roven and then can accept epoxy? There are a lot of nuiances here. Thanks!
Hello sir,can you please help me out like am fresh and I want to try costuming bike parts.so, can you please give me the tips like how to use and which one will be better and the meterials, names of the chemicals , please can you please kindly guide me what are the things I'll need and the names please sir, with humble request 🙏
Electric scissors are the best addition to the industry in 30 years. another related suggestion is if ya'll's scissors get dull you can sharpen them very easily.
You can use regular csm with epoxy, but the epoxy doesn't melt the binders in the csm like styrene based resin do. There are powder binder based csm available that work well with epoxy, but for some reason it is hard to find in the U.S. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Hi Joe. You did great job! How to contact with you. I'm csm and WR manufacturer from Thailand. We can provide high quality CSM and WR. I think we can have a good cooperation.
Mat has binders that break down with the solvents in Polyester. Epoxy does not break the binders down. If you want to use epoxy with mat, buy stitched CSM.
سلام استاد استاد سوالی داشتم مبنی اینکه ما از سه لایه پشم شیشه ولی بعد از مواد جداسا(واکس) طوری که بعد از زدن دو دست رزین اولیه مثل رو سطح شیشه بعد ازلایه اول پشم شیشه پارچهای رنگی ولی طوری مانند رو روی ان قرار داده وبعد از گرفتن چروک اون رزین زده وپشم شیشه بعدی رو روی اون وبعدی سه لایه پشم شیشه ضخیم ومابینشون پارچه رنگی از شما با توجه به تجربه شما چه نوپارچه ای دارای چه جنس الیافی باید باشد که نمای کار که از روی غالب شیشه ای جدا یشه رنگهای الوان ولی براق طوری که نورهای متناسب رنگها نور گیر برای ساختمان بسازیم از راهنمایی استاد تشکر میکنم
We have made Patreon ( www.patreon.com/FishBumpTv ) available for members who are interested in consultations on their projects. Thank you for your support!
How about a 78 foot x 26 feet boat, I have some catching up to do, I have not done any fibre glassing since 70s/80s
A really good point is that the fiber/mat works really well when you have curved areas of your project to get around. It allows the material to go around the rounded areas and does not leave a wrinkle or high spots which eliminates having to do a relief cut. Cool video though I really dig it. I'm a girl and I love working with fiberglass Bondo all that good stuff. Right now I'm doing my boyfriend's headliner. I'm making a fiberglass mold of it and then I'm going to finish up with a layer of carbon fiber to make it look badass. 🤞 Fingers crossed!
Thanks for the comment! That's a great idea and good luck with your headliner project.
Mind blown. Can't thank you enough for sharing this valuable knowledge. I'm restoring a 45' south african power cat. Needs some fiberglass work, and out where I'm at, there's no one do do it unless you want to pull it out of the water and let it sit out of service for months. Now I feel confident taking on some of the small work that needs to be done.
Glad the videos are helpful! Best of luck with your project
thank you for the emphasis on the CSM non compatibility with Epoxy, great introduction video IMHO
You are welcome! Appreciate you watching!
@@FishBumpTV I've been using CSM with Epoxy for years. Not the typical CSM which is emulsion bonded but CSM which is powder bonded specifically formulated for use with Epoxy resins and saturates very well.
I've worked with fiberglass many times and, 'I hate the stuff', but the information given and the difference in fibreglass was excellent. 👍
Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Thanks again for another tip on pulling the mat against a straight edge to feather the edge. I always cut and pulled to feather the edge. Not any more .Thanks
Glad to help!
You are the man. Thanks for disseminating this professional level info in an easily digestible manner.
I appreciate that! Glad to help!
Thanks for all your videos. I've been binge watching. I'm currently doing a restoration on a 24 foot Morgan. It had a yanmar diesel in it and I'm converting to an outboard. It's a lot of work. Your videos definitely inspire me. Thanks again. One Tip that I have learned. Use your little acetone bottle. Draw a line with acetone and it rips really easy on mat
You are very welcome, sounds like a very cool project! Yes, the acetone melts the binders in the mat. that is a neat trick. thanks for sharing!
Particularly useful to know about CSM and epoxy, thanks
Glad to help!
Thanks!
Awesome! Thank you!
Really excellent overview on materials and just as importantly, when you would use each one.
Thanks so much, I appreciate the comment!
I'm starting into the restoration of a Formula 233, I've got so many great tips from this video. Keep up the good work.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Great info on the different types and the best application to be used in.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment
Nice and concise Capitan! A follow up video would be appreciated:
How do you come up with a layup schedule? How thick is a layer of cloth? Do you always do mat first and last, or is it not needed first with the xx08 fabrics? i.e. 1.5 oz mat - 1708 - 1808 - 1708 -1.5oz mat? Mat matters more for visual finished surface, or is it needed to hold extra resin for a good bond (or both)?
How do you estimate how much material to buy? is there an waste percentage that is common, 10%?
How much resin/yard would you estimate?
How many layers can do in a single layup?
How do you decide to have a core vs solid glass?
Thanks, all great suggestions! I will try to add some or all of those to a video. I appreciate you watching
Depends on what you are doing but always put first and last mat it gives better finish and let you easier remove bubbles from product than when you leave rowing mat
Layer of mat 450 gram is about 0.8mm with resin and its about 1 kg its very dependent on temperature with higher temperature you use less resin its just more liquid water like when in low temps it gets more jelly and you ideally should put about 70% of fiberglass but its kinda unrealistic in hand made laminate its way easier to work with it if you put more resin :S
Material is estimated by square meters at least here in eu and yea 10% is about right but ISO reduces it to like 6% or something around
You see if you put mat and rowing on gelcoat you get nasty looking imprint of rowing so to avid that you should put like 3 or 4 layers of mat and then put rowing
How many layers you can put at once? well it also depends on what initiator you use with peroxide its about 5 "450 mat+650 rowing in m+r+m+r+m" but it also varies with temperature with about 27c you get first curing in about an hour with 1% of initiator "1% its 10ml of initiator for 1kg of resin" when in 20c you put like 2% with curox initiator you can put up to 9 layers also depends on temperature be aware tho product may bend or warp in a undesired way its better to put less layers at the time
most of the time you decide by cost for example you need to laminate some part non visible in the end so you put two mat layers and call it a day if you use mat rowing mat you use more materials than needed to achieve the same result for example you make a form and you want to reinforce walls so the keep shape so instead of putting few more layers you put instead few pieces of wood planks and laminate them with two mats and get sturdy wall for cheep we use steel beams "heavy" or wood planks "mid" poliuretan foam "light" for reinforcements
for good bond its better to know time of curing for gelcoat its better to put mat layers when gelcoat is harden and slighty sticky or when is squeeky when move your fingers on surface for mat its better when its harden and dry try to scratch it using metal blade or nail if leave scratch its good to go if leaves hairs then wait and before putting another layers just sand it a little for better bonding
about gramature of fiber glass mat for more complicated shapes put smaller gramature like 150 for first layer when less complicated or flat surfaces you can put like 450 or 800 gram mat for rowing for flat its good 90 degre single woven but for complicated shapes its better double woven rowing
Great information. I'm getting ready to do some small boat repairs. What about information on the weights of the different CSM? 1 Oz or 1.5 Oz and when to use either. Thank you so much for the great information you provide.
Thanks! 1oz is just easier to wet out because it is thinner material than 1.5 oz. They make 3/4 Oz, but I find it to be somewhat delicate to handle. Just remember that csm doesn't work well with epoxy resins. Polyester and vinyl Ester are fine with csm. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Capt Joe appreciate y'all sharing these products was also hoping for a video with a more in depth mixing MEKP simplifying the process so everyone can achieve great finish results this process not to waste material and time Thanks fish bump family!
Glad you are enjoying the videos! That's a great suggestion, I will try to do something along that line soon. Appreciate you watching and commenting!
Another informative video Capt.
I ask you on another video what glass to use, well I was going through you videos and found my answer, your a awesome teacher thanks for all you do for us pofolks, God bless and keep up the great work.
I've been glassing all my life and I learned something here ~
Glad to help, and thanks for watching!
This is great information. I want to build up the inside of my center console cause its too thin to mount any new electronics to and I want to redo all the wiring and want to design build my wiring since I am an electrician by trade. Was thinking plywood but I'm more leaning towards glassing in some coosa board instead.
Glad it was helpful! Coosa works great for what you are wanting to do, but plywood could also work. Thanks for watching!
Your channel has been very helpful. Thank you for the information you present.
Glad to help and I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Hello Joe, I’m restoring a 1973 VIP Bay Stealth. Do I need to remove all the gelcoat in the hull, before laying in new glass? Or can I do a rough sanding and lay in the glass?
I usually recommend removing all of the gelcoat and get down to solid fiberglass. I usually use a 24 grit sanding disc to put a very aggressive tooth or surface on the original fiberglass so that the new fiberglass can bond better. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
What kind of glass mat do you recommend for a hull blister repair? Thank you 🙏
Thank you for this video. I'm learning about this now and would appreciate more videos like this. Thumbs way up and Subscribed. 👍🏿
What are the dimensions of your shop?
Welcome to the channel! I'm glad to hear that you are enjoying the channel, and I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge on fiberglassing for boats, exactly what I was looking for.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks again Capt Joe I’m interested in the electric cutter didn’t see it in notes , brand & model I’ve got a small battery 1 it works well but to small, I enjoy working on boats as a hobby not job helping a friend restr. 73 seacraft & after that a73-19’ mako total restoration (my dad’s) thanks again for sharing 👍👍
It is a Romech brand, I bought it on amazon. Sounds like some great project boats. Always been a fan of the seacrafts! I appreciate you watching!
I'm so late being here. But this is the best lesson for beginners like me who are going to make a simple boat. Thank you for this content. My one question, what do you think of Phill Bolger's boat? Looks like I will make a boat design like the one he made. I ask for your opinion.
Very informative as usual, Im learning loads thanks
Glad to hear it!
Thankyou very much, I've tried tearing smaller widths lately and messed it. Larger pieces (over 150mm /6") seems easier.
Glad it helped! Tearing small widths is more difficult than wide, but it can be done with some practice. If you want a torn edge on one side and straight on the other, you can tear a wide strip and then split it down the middle with a straight edge and a razor blade. Thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV I generally cut with knife and feather the edge with side of blade - stripping off hard edge . Learnt that building house boats in Victoria Australia 🦘
Nice Video! Thank you for sharing your time and many talents! All the best…. Chuck
Thank you very much! I appreciate your comment!
Thanks, Capt Joe, very interesting as always.
Very welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
This boat I put up in 1992 after using it for roughly 6 years. Idk anything about fiberglass so you really help explain that to do in what situation. It won't let me update it, but it's a 6.5" speed boat about the size of a jetski.
Thanks for watching and commenting, it's much appreciated!
Just bought some 1708 and using it for the first time glassing down a new deck made of FRP..fiberglassed reinforced plywood from Fibertech..we’ll see how it holds up
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great videos. Keep them up I’m not working on a boat I’m working on car parts. Wondering how you do sharp edges like on a fender or a hood when it comes to the edge how do you get them to the bond together or never done it like to know, thanks again
Glad you are enjoying the videos! I have done some body work on cars and trucks in the past, but boats are obviously our main area of expertise. If I understand you correctly, I would feather or transition the glass as you get to the edges or seams of the fender or hood. If it is a body line, or crease you may have to use a premium body filler or putty to get the shape you need. I will try to do a video on body work and fairing out glass soon. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Awesome info ! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video, thank you. Now that i know i can use epoxy with 1708 on my deck what would finish over that with? Or just fair over the 1708?
Thanks! If you want it smooth, you could sand and fair it, or you might consider using peel ply over the epoxy. Peel ply will really help smooth the surface, remove any amine blush from the epoxy, and leave a perfect texture for paint or more epoxy. I have a recent video on Peel Ply that would be helpful, and Fiberglass warehouse has peel ply and a discount code for fish bump tv viewers that will save you some money. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching!
@@FishBumpTV Perfect, thank you so much for taking time to answer! I'm going to do 2 layers of 1708 on the deck and try the peel ply, i like it
@@aaronadams9509 Glad to help!
great videos very clear and exp;anatory great job!
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching!
How many layers of 1708 would it take for a say 16 to 20 foot skiff style hull. ?? Thanks
Boat hull laminate schedules can vary greatly. Our 29 custom has 10 layers on the bottom and 6 on the sides. Smaller boat that see lighter service could possibly use half of that many layers, and would probably be fine. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
In this area, they call the CSM matt "angel hair" and the roven woven "matt". Only other thing they use is "chopped glass" which everyone seems to hate. Funny how you get colloquial terms in different areas.
That's interesting! Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching!
Will I stop leaks in metal spouting using epoxy? Or should I use a rubber material?
CPT Joe, quick question, what ounce weight for the CSM are you using here in the demonstration? Thanks a bunch!
I use 1 Oz csm most of the time. Thanks for watching
@@FishBumpTV roger that, thanks for the tip and thanks for the discount code, ordered a BUNCH of stuff from Fiberglass Warehouse down here in Sarasota.
Where do you get the fiberglass roll tower?
We built it in our shop years ago. It really makes it easier to work with glass. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great videos!
I’m about to start repairing a hole on my 1976 Fairline Phantom 32.
May I ask if standard mat and woven roving will be sufficient for the job?
Or should I use some biaxial fabric like you did on your repair video?
The damage on my boat looks similar and might be a through hole.
If the standard mat and woven roving is sufficient, what thickness should I buy regarding woven roving?
Glad you are enjoying the videos! Yes, you can use mat and woven roven instead of 1708 if you prefer. Just remember to always start and finish with mat. It bonds better on the first layer than roven, and has better cosmetics on the last coat. I like 18 Oz roven personally. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@FishBumpTV Many Thanks! 😊👍⭐
Surface veil works also or 1/2 once matt
Thanks!
Great information, Thanks for sharing
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your comment!
Thanks again.
How is it that the chop stran mat form Europe is made so epoxy will work. Will we ever get that . Puzzling? Thank again
It has a different binder in it that is designed to work well with epoxy. It seems crazy that it is not available here in the States, or at least I haven't found a source for it. Thanks for watching!
Yes, there are two kind of csm. It is the powder bound csm which is best compatible with epoxy. Cheers
Great videos! Love the content. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the world.
Question. Can you use polyester resin with 1708? I am trying to purchase one resin that will work with CSM and 1708. Thanks!
Yes, polyester, vinyl Ester and epoxy will work with 1708. Csm does not work well will epoxy. Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos!
Thanks for the quick reply!
@@countryman02 Your welcome
I love you videos i keep learning just in case one day i need to know lol
Thats awesome! Thanks!
Which one will you recommend for automotive applications
The csm or chopped strand mat is a good all around glass for automotive work. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Thank you very much
Thanks for this valuable info 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
Great content. Which glass is lightest? Curious
Thanks! The 6 oz finishing clothe is the thinnest and lightest.
Thank you
Yes thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
How do you determine a fiberglass layup schedule?
It varies from boat to boat. Large boats require more glass than small ones. Commercial work boats are usually built heavier than pleasure boats. So there are many factors. Also just plain experience working with many boat of different sizes you get to see what works. Our 29 ft custom charter boat we built has 2 layers of 1.5 Oz csm for a skin coat, then 10 layers of biaxial on the hull bottom. That yields around a 1/2 inch thick laminate on all flat panels. Nearly 1 inch where it laps in the keel and chines. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
understand CSM not working with epoxy, Question, can you use epoxy as a second layer after glassing with laminating resin? will epoxy adhere over the resin once you apply the second layer of, say of 1708. Great videos.
In most cases yes, you can put epoxy over polyester without problems. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
thank you for the info, greatly appreciated.@@FishBumpTV
great video
i have quesyion please
i have crack on the floor of the bath
i bought Bondo fiberglass resin repair kit does it ok?
Thanks! I don't use much of the bondo brand resins, and resins can vary a good bit in what they can do. It is possible it could work well, but it is hard to say for sure. Wish I could help more.
Capt joe, I see in your videos you lay up your coosa with alot of vinyl Esther resin and you run 1708 by axial and finish it off with CSM is that because your CSM does not have styrene bonding in it ?
Great video. Which would you recommend for building a swim platform? And do I need wood or can it just be multiple layers of fiberglass?
question, is there a version of mat that does work with epoxy?
because i really like the way you use the mat to feather out and hide the edges of the roving and the 1708 on the other vids where you showed how to fiberglass plywood, but i was wanting to use epoxy for a project i'm planning
Yes, stitched chopped strand mat is compatible with epoxy because it uses no binders.
@@WereAllThatBored awesome, thanks for the info
There are also csm
Use powder bound csm with epoxy. Emulsion bound csm is suitable with polyester
I have a 89 celebrity that has cracks in the strakes and was wondering what you suggest using to repair the cracks. They are leaking water into my boat. Thank you
That could be a serious structural problem and might require some serious fiberglass repair work. Most damage on boats could be considered cosmetic, but if it is leaking water into the hull, that would be structural damage. We have not done any videos on that kind of repair work, and it might be something you should talk to a repair shop about. At least see what they would have to say. Hope this helps and thanks for watching
I am doing a complete overhaul on a 1996 angler center console. I have replaced everything with coosa board. I am now doing the floor and I have 2 pieces that are 1/2" thick woth off set joints nonetheless floor. I have 1 layer of 1808 down now and it feels solid. Should I put another layer of 1808 down then glass the console in or just glass the console in ?
Every boat project is different, but we usually go on the heavy duty side when doing glass work. When in doubt we usually add another layer. I hope this helps and best of luck with your project!
By 45 degrees fabrics are you referring to a twill weave?
The main fiberglass strands run in a 45 degree orientation relative to the roll itself. 1808 fabric runs at a 90 degree orientation to the roll. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
which one better to you: 1- more layer with light mat, 2-less layer with heavy mat
I like the 1 Oz mat personally. I would rather do more coats with a lighter weight mat, than less coats with a thicker one. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Please send me the details of fiberglass mat cutter or link on Amazon to buy one.
Hey man...I love your videos.
What gets confusing for us non- Americans is your number system.. 1708...is the 0 a zero or an "owe"
Thanks! Sorry for the confusion. It would be 1708, not owe 8. We appreciate all of our viewers, and I am working on adding more metric measurements and easier to understand pronunciations for everyone. It is a work in progress for sure!
Tearing the Matte is the same principle as finish drywall or using body filler and even spray painting.. We call it feathering out the edges. Tearing the matte creates the feathering effect when transitioning to another surface. It can reduce or even remove the visual layer change.
Yes, it really helps the quality of the finish work. I appreciate the comment!
That and staggering layers to avoid thick spots
very informative. now I know as to CSM, just tear the mat. now how will you do it as to woven roving sir? please, thank you.
Thanks, you can stagger the layers of roven or biaxial for a smoother transition. Hope this helps!
I have so much to learn
Glad you are finding the videos interesting, thanks for watching!
Which one would you use for difficult shapes like the rounded corner of a heelcup? Does the extra thin mat wrap around those areas or should I cut several overlapping shapes?
And what might be a good pressure if I do a positive and a negative mould and press the fiber together?
The mat works very good around difficult shapes when used with polyester or vinyl Ester resins. The light weight finishing cloth works well with epoxy around difficult shapes. I don't every use two part molds, so I don't have a answer for that one. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Twill or satin weave is very good for curves.
@@IngeBall Do you know a european online shop, that sells s2- fiberglass in satin? (Taxes and shipping make me pay double the price in such low quantities). And google seems to hide them.
@@hannesaltenfelder4302
No, but have you checked in UK?
@@IngeBall composite envision: double price, easy composites: double price.
Seabase: "only" 150% price, but without taxes.
I wish amazon would offer s2...
Great job thanks
Thank you too! I appreciate you watching!
I've never done any fiberglass work or anything remotely close and I'm undertaking a resto job on my 27' 93 chaparral cabin, so I'm studying these videos 😅
I hope the videos help with your chaparral resto! Best of luck with your project!
You never stated why chop & strand mat isn't used with epoxy and what is used for it. Can you please elaborate? Also what's the diff btwn epoxy and poly? (I hate watching vids that are abreviated and leave holes in knowledge). This is complicated. So mat works with woven roven and then can accept epoxy? There are a lot of nuiances here. Thanks!
Hello sir,can you please help me out like am fresh and I want to try costuming bike parts.so, can you please give me the tips like how to use and which one will be better and the meterials, names of the chemicals , please can you please kindly guide me what are the things I'll need and the names please sir, with humble request 🙏
Electric scissors are the best addition to the industry in 30 years. another related suggestion is if ya'll's scissors get dull you can sharpen them very easily.
I use an A0 paper guillotine, I cant stand feathered edges, cuts 400 matt no problem. Nice and neat. Just leave it setup by roll.
Great video.
Thank you!
Grear diy intell thx
Thanks! Glad to help!
I've seen a lot of CSM labelled as "Epoxy compatible" . Is that just a marketing scam?
You can use regular csm with epoxy, but the epoxy doesn't melt the binders in the csm like styrene based resin do. There are powder binder based csm available that work well with epoxy, but for some reason it is hard to find in the U.S. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Make more videos please!
You got it!
Hi Joe. You did great job! How to contact with you. I'm csm and WR manufacturer from Thailand. We can provide high quality CSM and WR. I think we can have a good cooperation.
why not mat with epoxy ?????????
Mat has binders that break down with the solvents in Polyester. Epoxy does not break the binders down. If you want to use epoxy with mat, buy stitched CSM.
Yes, that is exactly right! Thanks!
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Very informative, thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
i like
Thank you!
سلام استاد
استاد سوالی داشتم مبنی اینکه ما از سه لایه پشم شیشه ولی بعد از مواد جداسا(واکس) طوری که بعد از زدن دو دست رزین اولیه مثل رو سطح شیشه
بعد ازلایه اول پشم شیشه پارچهای رنگی ولی طوری مانند رو روی ان قرار
داده وبعد از گرفتن چروک اون رزین زده وپشم شیشه بعدی رو روی اون وبعدی سه لایه پشم شیشه ضخیم ومابینشون پارچه رنگی از شما با توجه
به تجربه شما چه نوپارچه ای دارای چه جنس الیافی باید باشد که نمای کار که از روی غالب شیشه ای جدا یشه رنگهای الوان ولی براق طوری که نورهای متناسب رنگها نور گیر برای ساختمان بسازیم از راهنمایی استاد تشکر میکنم
Pertinent comment re random weave.
Thanks for watching!
5:10 interesting
Thanks!
I bet that new stuff gets pricy
Yep, seems like everything is pricey these days. I miss the good Ole days!
Use acetone to clean hands