The wood for the end grain one looked like it was finished or had resin on it. I think he was shaving off something else there's no way end grain held together like that. You don't get ribbons from planning end grain right...
Tip on the bending: use the THINNEST possible blade in your arsenal, make cuts that are the same spacing as the cuts, lightly sand (or use angled cuts for the whole thing) each slice to a taper, and GENTLY bend backward to insert the glue, making sure there are NO voids. You may also want to use epoxy rather than glue. Do the whole project slow and gentle as the frills are Very delicate until sealed if done right
The bending one wouldn't need testing because that method of bending is used in acoustic guitar construction. That's how you attach the sides to the top and back.
I did some kerf bending on a cabinet project. Learned a few things on the way. Test cuts to determine ideal cut depth. If it snaps when you go to bend it, cut deeper. Be mindful that you are bending the long grain, especially if working with plywood. There are online calculators to help with ideal spacing. As I understand the math your total kerf through the bend should be the length difference between the inner and outer curve. Use a thin kerf blade for a smoother curve. Sand BEFORE you cut kerfs so you don't sand away your thin curve exterior. If the design can hold its shape and you don't cut too many kerfs, then glue isn't vital. The compression across the kerfs is actually pretty good at keeping the joint secure.
Edit Edit: so apparently the planing championships don't do cross-grain planing like here, so the authenticity is still in question Edit: apparently the thinly sliced wood isn't pine, but port orford cedar, notable for fine grain and good cross-grain strength, making such thin slices possible I think the translucent layer in that tiktok might have been glue or other stuff they'd applied to the end and then just peeled off with the chisel. I don't think wood like that has enough cross-grain integrity to hold together when cut to such thin sheets.
On the bending one you can just make thinner cuts, soak it a bit in hot water and mix that wood's sawdust with the glue to close the gaps then maybe round it over, or cover the edge with thin laminate. Great effort nontheless, it's always good to know even professionals don't always get it right the first time they try something, teaches any one starting their journey that it's not the end of the world when you mess up sometimes.
@@hartman601 You can tell how long people have been on UA-cam watching woodworking vids... Referencing 'I saw Izzy do that years ago' is definitely one of the ways.
For the first one try a 1:1 water + alcohol mixture (vodka will work too) to soak the end grain. It definitely changes the process of end-grain planing and chiseling. Not sure about the paper-like single shaving though.
if i had to guess probably like a see through sticker or something that they just peeled off with the chsel to make it look like it was a paper thin slice
1st one is a scam you can see its a thin layer that isn't wood. Apply it to to end grain but it up to a pc of glass and let cure. Butter, wax in a solvent, pva might all work. Wax is a generic name for a range of materials it's not all brittle. Super soft plastic like crayton would probably work. (the plastic in gel candles)
@6:56 I just would like to mention this might be the reason for the failed curve is that you didn't do equal interchanging cuts on both sides of the board like it is shown in the video allowing it to be more flexible.
Definitely wet the pine it makes a huge difference. They also may have used some green wood. With stuff like pine and fir if it's old or has been kiln dried the sap will have hardened making it more difficult to work. Thats part of why timberframers can peel off thin strips of wood when fitting the green fir beams.
That finger joint jig looks so cool. I've only made a couple things woodworking like a coffee table and a bathroom cabinet. I really want to try that joint.
Akhira says in a comment on their video that the wood is Hinoki cypress. Hinoki is very soft and 90% of what makes that stunt possible. It's a very popular pick for Japanese woodworking videos.
That is what I was thinking... because of the density diferent between the grain and the rest of the wood, I would assume the grain isnt actually attached to the rest of the wood in a way that it could be removed that thin and still stay together (since grain swells and contracts)
John... Not sure I would have had the intestinal fortitude to try the table saw lathe. I am going to do the finger joint one, it looks like something even i could do. But then again, you make everything look so easy. :-) Thank you for sharing!
I think the bends were probably steamed first, even a simple handheld garment steamer maybe. Otherwise you would need truly perfect stock everytime, the tiniest grain difference could ruin pieces easily.
definitely would have helped to take the steamer to the non-cut side before bending/gluing. also would have done a lot more math to make the cuts more symmetrical and so each corner did 90 perfectly, but for a beginner attempt john did ok :)
hey guys this video isnt actualy fake, he has other videos of him using chisels at other angles, japanese chizzels can hold high angles 25 degrees is standard with the high rockwell they will retain an edge, the wood used is Japanese hinoki (cypress). I bet i can do this myself with spruce
i have did the corner cuts before. best way to get it perfect. is to build a jig. cut corners on top. and clamps and jig on bottom on a flat surface to make it square.
I’ve had reolink cameras up front and back of my house for the past 5 years or so. They’ve been excellent. Really clear colour videos during the day and nice sharp infrared during the night. I can highly recommend them. Also the app is brilliant and easy to use. Nice and easy to view live or show past history (stored in the sdcard of the camera) 👍.
The Reolink cameras are a great option for people that don’t have great internet. Use a SD card for storage. You can still access them from the internet. Good video.
John that was great video love the finger/box joint explanation you did been looking do this for bit so thank u for the help on that!! Love the series hope u and the fam are good!! 🏴👍
Love your honesty about your craft, many videos on UA-cam make it too simple for normal people. Like no mistakes and everything perfect for the first try.
To make the bent wood with the kerf, if you use a tapered router bit, you eliminate the open spots at the bottom of the cut when it’s folded. Being your saw blade makes a rectangular kerf, you’re left with a triangular gap once you bend it. The tapered router bit fixes that
@@darrinlindsey I don’t know the smallest made but a quick google search, I saw a 6.2 degree with a 1/64 tip. But you’d have to figure out what angle based on how many kerfs you want to make. To obtuse of a bit and you’d still have gaps or you’d go past the desired bent angle. To acute and you’d need more cuts. There’s a video on UA-cam about it
For the kerf cutting, to eliminate the ugly gaps that are left showing, don't use a miter saw (or saw of any kind) but instead use a 6.2 Degree taper CNC bit in your router
CANDY CORN… I truly believe that circus peanuts are the worst. I love the owls and now I have to go get a landscape timber to play with for pumpkins. I follow a lots of makers out there these days but you are still one of my MUST WATCH channels. I’ve scored a bunch of drawer pulls so I might have to try my hand at a couple of those tray/board/sign boards. Thanks for sharing and have a great day!
You need to calculate the difference between the inner and outer radius of the kerf and then remove that amount of material by calculating how many cuts it’ll take with the kerf of your blade. That way, you’ll get a perfect 90 on the bend.
If you want to do the chisel trick you have to chisel off the rough end with the chisel first, once you chisel off the rough first layer it will be smooth enough to try it.
Right. But that's done with Japanese planes and also cut with the length of the grain. The person in the video had the wood stabilized somehow I'm pretty sure.
I wish all the people saying the first video is fake would try to recreate whatever ridiculous things they are suggesting and record it. It's real wood, end grain Japanese cypress wet with some added water ( not soaked, not green wood, not steamed) and a sharp 36mm chisel. The setup is probably harder than the actual cutting because the guide block needs to be perfect for these results. It isn't glue, tape, wax, wax paper, polyurethane, shellac, glued on paper, resin, or anything else but wood and some water. The type of wood is the most difficult thing to get but spreading some hand tool knowledge feels like it is desperately needed here.
For creating table legs with your table saw, you should use a sled that allows your blade to come up from the underside of your dowels. It's much safer and easier to control. You also get much less chattering. 😊
For the first end grain cut with a chisel, the technique to start the peel would be to keep one finger above the chisel and push the handle gently sideways so that you obtain a circular motion of the blade edge. This way, the angle of attack would be lower than the 25 or 30 degree on your chisel and prevent the split of the fibres.
You can use the table saw finger jig to cut slits in your wood cabinet piece and get proper deep slots, the trick for that one is to get the slots deep into the wood so it almost reaches the outside flexible wooden sheet part of the wood boards and you can get the radius of the furniture without any troubles.
When I was an apprentice we turned 10ft flutted columns on a sketchy jig on a spindle moulder using a piggy back cutter. Old fashioned cutter head. So dangerous. The cutter did vibrate out and ping about the shop. Scary as all hell when you're 17-18 yrs old. Worked though.
Hi John, I saw this video, he uses a table saw to round out a block. He made a way better jig for the saw, start the video at 12:28 for the jig. Love your content!
For the turning on a table saw... would be better to use 2 blocks of wood, hollow out a spot on the inside of both blocks to fit a ball bearing, glue the pieces together to seal the bearing in, then uses a long bolt going through the bearing into with a washer and nylon lock nut on both side with maybe some locktight. That would allow it to spin freely while also keeping the bolt straight and not backing out. Could also use something like a counter sink on both sides and tighten those into the piece of wood instead of a nail and t nut.
Great content as usual, I was thinking if you need ideas for content what about an "ask John" segment where people write in questions on how to do stuff? Like how do you cut on round stock or dowels as in making bookends with a cutout that mates up to the other bookend to make a heart or a star?
I noticed you use the table hook to hold your pieces down. if you use a cloth between the hook and the piece you can put more pressure and reduce the movement the piece is capable of.
2:18 - Old mate on the left has his wood around the wrong way. This is why attention to detail is ESSENTIAL in all craftsmanship. Making such a horrific error led to him failing to make the cut, literally. Nah, tbh I suspect it was soaked in water for a while beforehand it looks waterlogged. But seriously, get your grain running the right way around when you try it and see the difference.
The table-saw lathe thing... I wouldn't have a lot of trust in that. Maybe if the grooves on the table were dovetails and I knew it couldn't lift the whole contraption off. I also would want to maybe make some sort of cradle for the drill so I didn't need to hold it and do the good old zip-tie trigger so I can stand way to the side and not have my hands anywhere near what was happening.
I’ve watched a video on the wood bending. There was a lady in Europe doing it. She was using I believe it was birch plywood. She was making coffee tables. She was no amateur in a wood shop. Produced some great looking furniture.
I used to have a big ottoman that took up too much room for me to have a coffee table, so i used the kerf cutting/ bending technique to make basically two half boxes like did, that each fit over the ottoman. Together they took up about half of it giving me a solid surface i could use as a coffee table, while still being able to use the ottoman as a footrest
Cypress, not pine. It's a near perfect wood for doing super thin shavings. All the competitions using Japanese style planes do it on cypress
That pine looked like it had been soaked in water for awhile before he sliced it.
def looked soaked or steamed
or it was a wax coating
Looks like wax or glue to me.
It was cypress.
Something definitely not right with that cut.
Thank you for mentioning me!😄Good job on the joint👌👍 17:26
Could he have wet the timber when he chiseled it, looks wet to me?
It maybe a stabilising resin too
It's definitely the wood and not the chisel. There is no way any dry wood on end grain would behave like that like in the original.
He had it treated with something. There was a sheen and the wood looks stabilized somehow for sure.
i was thinking it was wet as well
it's totally embedded in wax
The wood for the end grain one looked like it was finished or had resin on it. I think he was shaving off something else there's no way end grain held together like that. You don't get ribbons from planning end grain right...
you can see the difference in color, it looks wet after it's "shaved"
I thought it was played in reverse at first
wax
Wax was my first thought also!
I believe it was probably green wood?
Tip on the bending: use the THINNEST possible blade in your arsenal, make cuts that are the same spacing as the cuts, lightly sand (or use angled cuts for the whole thing) each slice to a taper, and GENTLY bend backward to insert the glue, making sure there are NO voids. You may also want to use epoxy rather than glue. Do the whole project slow and gentle as the frills are Very delicate until sealed if done right
The bending one wouldn't need testing because that method of bending is used in acoustic guitar construction. That's how you attach the sides to the top and back.
I did some kerf bending on a cabinet project. Learned a few things on the way. Test cuts to determine ideal cut depth. If it snaps when you go to bend it, cut deeper. Be mindful that you are bending the long grain, especially if working with plywood. There are online calculators to help with ideal spacing. As I understand the math your total kerf through the bend should be the length difference between the inner and outer curve. Use a thin kerf blade for a smoother curve. Sand BEFORE you cut kerfs so you don't sand away your thin curve exterior. If the design can hold its shape and you don't cut too many kerfs, then glue isn't vital. The compression across the kerfs is actually pretty good at keeping the joint secure.
The best way in my opinion to do it is to use a 0 point 18 degree router bit. then do 5 passes. You also don't end up with any gaps when bending it.
Also a nice veneer will hide all the horrors under.
Edit Edit: so apparently the planing championships don't do cross-grain planing like here, so the authenticity is still in question
Edit: apparently the thinly sliced wood isn't pine, but port orford cedar, notable for fine grain and good cross-grain strength, making such thin slices possible
I think the translucent layer in that tiktok might have been glue or other stuff they'd applied to the end and then just peeled off with the chisel.
I don't think wood like that has enough cross-grain integrity to hold together when cut to such thin sheets.
That was my first thought too
almost looked like wax
@@Grouchy_Hermit Wax coatings will still break apart if you shave them off.
It's a polyurethane or lacquer
@@ryanokeefe12 depends what wax
I think it’s wax too. Similar to what Rockler or Woodcraft would use in their small blocks to seal them.
On the bending one you can just make thinner cuts, soak it a bit in hot water and mix that wood's sawdust with the glue to close the gaps then maybe round it over, or cover the edge with thin laminate. Great effort nontheless, it's always good to know even professionals don't always get it right the first time they try something, teaches any one starting their journey that it's not the end of the world when you mess up sometimes.
(Table saw lathe) "There's nobody here in the shop who could rush me to the hospital. Let's do the sketchiest thing we can find on the internet..."
except the camera guy.
Yea, I made one and it went to shit town, ended upp cutting me left hand off completely.
So I wont do it again😅
For the "table saw lathe" one, *I* was fully puckered and I'm 1500 miles away and several days removed. You are a brave brave man, John Malecki.
Actually a pretty safe cut. Stumpy nubs tested it a bunch. Izzy swan was the first place I saw it. He has adapted it to make a variety of shapes.
@@hartman601 Izzi is the man
@@hartman601 whenever I’m doing, stumpy nubs for the final say 😂 he’s like my woodworking fact checker
@@hartman601 You can tell how long people have been on UA-cam watching woodworking vids... Referencing 'I saw Izzy do that years ago' is definitely one of the ways.
@@hartman601 May be a pretty safe cut, just probably not quite how John did it lol
For the first one try a 1:1 water + alcohol mixture (vodka will work too) to soak the end grain. It definitely changes the process of end-grain planing and chiseling. Not sure about the paper-like single shaving though.
if i had to guess probably like a see through sticker or something that they just peeled off with the chsel to make it look like it was a paper thin slice
Yea, looks like wood glue to me. @@mrroboshadow
1st one is a scam you can see its a thin layer that isn't wood. Apply it to to end grain but it up to a pc of glass and let cure. Butter, wax in a solvent, pva might all work. Wax is a generic name for a range of materials it's not all brittle. Super soft plastic like crayton would probably work. (the plastic in gel candles)
@6:56 I just would like to mention this might be the reason for the failed curve is that you didn't do equal interchanging cuts on both sides of the board like it is shown in the video allowing it to be more flexible.
Definitely wet the pine it makes a huge difference. They also may have used some green wood. With stuff like pine and fir if it's old or has been kiln dried the sap will have hardened making it more difficult to work. Thats part of why timberframers can peel off thin strips of wood when fitting the green fir beams.
If you felt like re-trying the kerf bending one. Use your new finger joint indexing guide to have even spacing.
That finger joint jig looks so cool. I've only made a couple things woodworking like a coffee table and a bathroom cabinet. I really want to try that joint.
Akhira says in a comment on their video that the wood is Hinoki cypress. Hinoki is very soft and 90% of what makes that stunt possible. It's a very popular pick for Japanese woodworking videos.
The first video is fake. It's probably a layer of glue. End grain pine will never stay together like that roll up and be almost transparent.
Agreed. I was also thinking it could be wax.
17:12 17:13 😅😅
@@tatumtots09 NOT PINE
That is what I was thinking... because of the density diferent between the grain and the rest of the wood, I would assume the grain isnt actually attached to the rest of the wood in a way that it could be removed that thin and still stay together (since grain swells and contracts)
@@willsmith8576 I would thinking more like CA glue, anyone who has ever pealed CA glue off a finger tip knows it looks very similar.
For the kerf bending, I've seen a video where someone used a steep angle v bit to cut the kerfs, so when folded there were no gaps in the side grain
OH!!!! Good idea!
John... Not sure I would have had the intestinal fortitude to try the table saw lathe. I am going to do the finger joint one, it looks like something even i could do. But then again, you make everything look so easy. :-) Thank you for sharing!
I never took wood shop in high school, I was in metal shop, so all these things are really neat. That finger joint was really neat.
I think the bends were probably steamed first, even a simple handheld garment steamer maybe. Otherwise you would need truly perfect stock everytime, the tiniest grain difference could ruin pieces easily.
definitely would have helped to take the steamer to the non-cut side before bending/gluing. also would have done a lot more math to make the cuts more symmetrical and so each corner did 90 perfectly, but for a beginner attempt john did ok :)
hey guys this video isnt actualy fake, he has other videos of him using chisels at other angles, japanese chizzels can hold high angles 25 degrees is standard with the high rockwell they will retain an edge, the wood used is Japanese hinoki (cypress). I bet i can do this myself with spruce
I did it with an Irwin chisel and a piece of basswood. You can't convince the hundreds of people that have said it is wax or finish or glue.
I wish I could be in your shop every day, we would always have fun. And I love woodworking. Thank you for sharing, sir. One love to all.
The finger joint technique is super awesome...I am going to try it
Love that you explain how to do it, just seeing the videos doesn't necessarily give you all the info. Keep up the good work!
I had a 1950s craftsman radial arm saw and that thing was SO MUCH more terrifying than any anything else I ever used
I think the person in the first video used glue on it, because the wood underneath the peel is shiny.
i have did the corner cuts before. best way to get it perfect. is to build a jig. cut corners on top. and clamps and jig on bottom on a flat surface to make it square.
I’ve had reolink cameras up front and back of my house for the past 5 years or so. They’ve been excellent. Really clear colour videos during the day and nice sharp infrared during the night. I can highly recommend them. Also the app is brilliant and easy to use. Nice and easy to view live or show past history (stored in the sdcard of the camera) 👍.
The Reolink cameras are a great option for people that don’t have great internet. Use a SD card for storage. You can still access them from the internet. Good video.
Paint the end grain with pva, when it dries it will be clear and easy to take a cellophane thick slice off it with a sharp chisel.
That key joint was so awesome looking and so much surface area for glue. I bet it's insanely strong.
John that was great video love the finger/box joint explanation you did been looking do this for bit so thank u for the help on that!! Love the series hope u and the fam are good!! 🏴👍
Yes! Thank you for the explanation and walk through if finger joint
Love your honesty about your craft, many videos on UA-cam make it too simple for normal people. Like no mistakes and everything perfect for the first try.
Always love your videos, glad to see one as it premiered while im up all night taking care of my sick kid
To make the bent wood with the kerf, if you use a tapered router bit, you eliminate the open spots at the bottom of the cut when it’s folded. Being your saw blade makes a rectangular kerf, you’re left with a triangular gap once you bend it. The tapered router bit fixes that
What's the smallest tapered bit available?
@@darrinlindsey I don’t know the smallest made but a quick google search, I saw a 6.2 degree with a 1/64 tip. But you’d have to figure out what angle based on how many kerfs you want to make. To obtuse of a bit and you’d still have gaps or you’d go past the desired bent angle. To acute and you’d need more cuts. There’s a video on UA-cam about it
@@darrinlindsey not sure on the smallest but i believe if you space out the cuts according to the bit you have, it works with any angle.
For the kerf cutting, to eliminate the ugly gaps that are left showing, don't use a miter saw (or saw of any kind) but instead use a 6.2 Degree taper CNC bit in your router
this is smart. Thank you!
6.2deg? Only specific, most tapered endmills are in steps of 5, or 10 maybe 1 or 2 deg once you get to shallow tapers.
@@Volt64boltwith CNC bits it's not uncommon to find them with tapers specific down to the hundredth
@@RGun90 I take it you don’t mean those funky little half faced ‘engraving’ bits?
@@Volt64bolt def not the engraving bits, but professional TAPER bit. They arent cheap but they give that insane incremental level of options.
CANDY CORN… I truly believe that circus peanuts are the worst. I love the owls and now I have to go get a landscape timber to play with for pumpkins. I follow a lots of makers out there these days but you are still one of my MUST WATCH channels. I’ve scored a bunch of drawer pulls so I might have to try my hand at a couple of those tray/board/sign boards. Thanks for sharing and have a great day!
You need to calculate the difference between the inner and outer radius of the kerf and then remove that amount of material by calculating how many cuts it’ll take with the kerf of your blade. That way, you’ll get a perfect 90 on the bend.
so it depends on a lot of things, blade width, wood thickness... probably sometimes planning before "just doing" will yield better results? :O
Oh, so you got the gist of it then?
Blocklayer is a site ive used for this kind of thing. they have a curf bending calculator. Its pretty nifty.
If you want to do the chisel trick you have to chisel off the rough end with the chisel first, once you chisel off the rough first layer it will be smooth enough to try it.
That first video with the chisel, he was cutting off WAX. LOL
You are the king epoxy and woodworking.
pretty sure its cedar coz when you watch japanese wood joinery house builds they plane it and it makes big long cuts that look like snake skin
Right. But that's done with Japanese planes and also cut with the length of the grain. The person in the video had the wood stabilized somehow I'm pretty sure.
I think its japense cedar too. Its for sure not pine haha i was stupid to think that when i tried
It's cypress. AKHIRA (the woodworker in the video) mentioned it in his comments.
That endgrain thing is for sure peeling off finish and not cutting wood
I think it could be Japanese cedar.
He for sure used wood glue on the end grain.. 100%
Those replink cams are awesome they work good… theyre expensive to run but def worth it
What if he laid a thin layer of wood glue down and let it dry, then shaved it off?
That’s what I was thinking. Honestly I’m not a woodworker so I dunno but if I was trying to fake it that would be the first thing I’d try.
Could have been something like bee's wax, too.
I wish all the people saying the first video is fake would try to recreate whatever ridiculous things they are suggesting and record it. It's real wood, end grain Japanese cypress wet with some added water ( not soaked, not green wood, not steamed) and a sharp 36mm chisel. The setup is probably harder than the actual cutting because the guide block needs to be perfect for these results. It isn't glue, tape, wax, wax paper, polyurethane, shellac, glued on paper, resin, or anything else but wood and some water. The type of wood is the most difficult thing to get but spreading some hand tool knowledge feels like it is desperately needed here.
Ya, as good a theory as mine...or better but I have been at this woodworking thing for over 60 years but you can always learn new tricks.😅
I think the first one is a hoax, maybe a layer of wax over the endgrain and then he chiselled it off, dont think wood can behave like that
I think it was japanese cedar after it kicked my ass and i did some research haha
I love your channel. Keep it up dudes! You rock!
For creating table legs with your table saw, you should use a sled that allows your blade to come up from the underside of your dowels. It's much safer and easier to control. You also get much less chattering. 😊
3:46 my childhood brain… “HIT SELECT BITCH!!! HIT SELECT!!” Mortal Kombat has been awesome for decades.
For the first end grain cut with a chisel, the technique to start the peel would be to keep one finger above the chisel and push the handle gently sideways so that you obtain a circular motion of the blade edge. This way, the angle of attack would be lower than the 25 or 30 degree on your chisel and prevent the split of the fibres.
Has anyone ever told you you look just like Joey Camasta in your thumb nails? That’s why I started watching you lol. Great content.
You're a quick thinker and entertaining and whoever edits these is hilarious!
Japanese pine is not just pine, its an amazing quality wood. The chisel has its merit, but the wood takes the cake.
Be kind to each other. Stay safe. Love to all
You can use the table saw finger jig to cut slits in your wood cabinet piece and get proper deep slots, the trick for that one is to get the slots deep into the wood so it almost reaches the outside flexible wooden sheet part of the wood boards and you can get the radius of the furniture without any troubles.
13:20 the 90s throwback to my dad’s attempt at making the poolside look fun l😅
I saw a cool one on the kerf cut with a tapered bit in a router and steamed,it was a hardwood shelf and it looked awesome
You need a good Starwars "Its working. It's working!!" in here every once in a while
I had NO IDEA this crazy yinzer was so close! Came for the epoxy vids and stayed for the unboxing/pallet vids.
The fake David Blaine add-in clips were hilarious!!! Totally forgot about those videos
Lathe and Tablesaw, probably the two most dangerous tools in woodworking... lets combine them!!
Jeeze lol
Re-try the shadow boxes, but do the kerf cutting the same way you did the finger joints. :)
"Should probably have done a test, but I'm a fricking a**hole."
aaaaand subbed
Shout out to my favorite UA-camr John Malecki for entertaining the masses again with just another great video!
I like the hand router. I haven’t used one of those in years.
200$ for a 10" lathe and I dont have to play stupid to turn it round on a table saw. priceless
Love the finger joint.
Excellent work, John! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I love the David Blaine spoof gif that’s a deep cut 😂
When I was an apprentice we turned 10ft flutted columns on a sketchy jig on a spindle moulder using a piggy back cutter. Old fashioned cutter head. So dangerous. The cutter did vibrate out and ping about the shop. Scary as all hell when you're 17-18 yrs old. Worked though.
Pine looked like it had a piece of wax paper lightly glued to it lol
This is a brilliant chanell. I hate tool tick tocks and shorts, but i love seeing you verify them!
At 17:19 "its a good looking joint". Yes, but not a joint that I should recommend someone to smoke 🚭🤣
Lol
The cool pary about the dowels is you can make arches also almost any sìze we made them 36 inch arch by useing the dowel idea only not spinning it.
Dude, your chisels aren’t sharp enough
Hi John, I saw this video, he uses a table saw to round out a block. He made a way better jig for the saw, start the video at 12:28 for the jig. Love your content!
Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work John. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. Stay squirrely. God bless.
For the turning on a table saw... would be better to use 2 blocks of wood, hollow out a spot on the inside of both blocks to fit a ball bearing, glue the pieces together to seal the bearing in, then uses a long bolt going through the bearing into with a washer and nylon lock nut on both side with maybe some locktight. That would allow it to spin freely while also keeping the bolt straight and not backing out. Could also use something like a counter sink on both sides and tighten those into the piece of wood instead of a nail and t nut.
I really appreciate the "Cheezits" David Blaine parody sketch quick insert during the curved cut part.
Great content as usual, I was thinking if you need ideas for content what about an "ask John" segment where people write in questions on how to do stuff? Like how do you cut on round stock or dowels as in making bookends with a cutout that mates up to the other bookend to make a heart or a star?
Great stuff John!!!
I've used Reolink for 4 years now and I love their system.
Going to do the finger joints on one of my shop draws just to practice them 😊
For the finger joints, I do the same on a router table with a sled.
I noticed you use the table hook to hold your pieces down. if you use a cloth between the hook and the piece you can put more pressure and reduce the movement the piece is capable of.
That wood they cut the paper thin sliver from was definitely moistened on the end, not plain
Apply linseed oil on the end grain to get a single sheet instead of the little curls
Where can I get a hand saw like the one you used on the last challenge? I need something like that
It's a suizan. Lots of places should sell them.
2:18 - Old mate on the left has his wood around the wrong way. This is why attention to detail is ESSENTIAL in all craftsmanship. Making such a horrific error led to him failing to make the cut, literally. Nah, tbh I suspect it was soaked in water for a while beforehand it looks waterlogged. But seriously, get your grain running the right way around when you try it and see the difference.
These Videos Are So Awesome
He was pealing the layer of glue off the end grain. 😂
"Finger joint, really simple anyone can do"
Me: cuts finger off at the joint
Hey with the sharp chisel trick is to put sparkling water and pour it on the end grain
The table-saw lathe thing... I wouldn't have a lot of trust in that. Maybe if the grooves on the table were dovetails and I knew it couldn't lift the whole contraption off. I also would want to maybe make some sort of cradle for the drill so I didn't need to hold it and do the good old zip-tie trigger so I can stand way to the side and not have my hands anywhere near what was happening.
Just bought an In Ron We Trust T-Shirt. Thanks for the content, keep on hustlin.
I’ve watched a video on the wood bending. There was a lady in Europe doing it. She was using I believe it was birch plywood. She was making coffee tables. She was no amateur in a wood shop. Produced some great looking furniture.
You know that bendy thing would make a very cool raised bed
I used to have a big ottoman that took up too much room for me to have a coffee table, so i used the kerf cutting/ bending technique to make basically two half boxes like did, that each fit over the ottoman. Together they took up about half of it giving me a solid surface i could use as a coffee table, while still being able to use the ottoman as a footrest