I have an idea for them: they could integrate some threshold into their gear that automatically pauses the music or what you are listening to, to make you be careful when working with a loud (and supposedly dangerous) machine. Of course you should be able to switch that of when you're working in a constantly loud environment (air filter or so).
not a bad idea, but remember: every saw has a little wobble in the blade, so I find it unlikely it would be exact ENOUGH to make this work. Good test to run I suppose
And to think it took over forty years for someone to show me an easier way, and it's so simple. Have I been living in a closet my whole life? Thanks James.
Great title - I do a lot of wood work and get really tired of the “negative presumption” concept that is some guy telling me what “everyone gets wrong” or “what I don’t know” when in reality many very much know and it’s a click bait tactic. Your title and overall presentation is an honest and pragmatic effective strategy for joints that anyone can do. Bravo
I just figured this out myself 2 days ago when I cut a bunch of dados for a multi-shelf metal stock holding rack! It took me a while to figure out but it is pretty much genius! Next time please come out with your video 2 days earlier! Thank you! :)
I LOVE half lap joints, they're my favorite. Perfect for a guy like me who's lazy AND wants a strong glued up joint! 🤣 Thanks for the great tips, yours are some of the most straight forward and easy to understand of any I've seen.
Great tips thanks. The method I use for setting blade height is to simply use a piece of wood that’s the same thickness as your project wood (think cutoff) and cut a 45 on one end flip it face down and cut the 45 again. The tip of the angle (
Another technique I've used is to use an offcut of the piece you plan to join. Rip it and then glue it back together. The rip takes out one kerf width, and the little bit of glue adds just the right amount of extra space.
I'm so glad you made this video. I have never understood why the kerf jigs were so popular on other videos when they are harder to set up. I actually just use setup blocks as my spacer to match my blade kerf. They are a great gift idea for woodworkers and I find all sorts of uses for them on my projects. Another alternative is to use a drill bit.
Awesome video as always. To find the halfway point even faster, Microjig has the Fitfinder 1/2 gauge that does this in seconds without removing any stock. It is $35 though, but performs as promised.
For setting the blade height, instead of iterative passes, I just count how many crank turns (including the fractional turn at the end) it takes to raise the blade from zero (raising the blade until it barely grazes a flat scrap of wood) to the thickness of the material (teeth barely grazing the same scrap overhanging from the top surface of the workpiece). Then I lower the blade by exactly half what I have counted. To cleanup any issues with slack, I end with a half turn of the crank down and then up again.
Your videos are helping me a lot. I recently watched your sanding video using poly while sanding to fill wood grain. It saved my project. Making an end table with red oak. That grain was giving me trouble. Fixed now.
I made some half lap jpints for cabinet door frames with glass within. They were white oak with a clear finish. I glued the laps with titebond and then put several 5/8"brads in the back side of the lap at angles to resist pulloout . I tried to pull apart a test piece and was amazed at how strong the joints were!
Wish I saw this 2 weeks ago when building a cabinet/base for a work table. The half laps would make assembly much simpler with accurate alignment than dowels and pocket holes. Thanks again James, another efficient technique teaching lesson.
You keep doing it,my friend. Inspiring me, that is. I’ve shied away from lap joints before, but you have made me want to go downstairs and try one. But it’s 1:01 a.m., so I’ll have to wait. But I’m going to do it. The first thing, of course, is the thin spline. Thank you again, James.
Oh god thank you. I knew there was a way to do that correctly without any mesure. I tried to figure it out myself to be able to do that but I could not. Now I know. And that's the perfect timing as I was going to need to do something like that probably the next weekend.
Another brilliant shop aid from James! And, unlike ewjorgy, I didn't figure it out myself. Thank you for all the tips, tricks, tool tips, and all the other content you have shared over the years.
Great idea! And I think a lot of people take half laps for granted. But, despite their relative simplicity they are a strong and pretty cool looking joint.
Out of all your videos, this will be one that I will put on my save list. Easy to understand and something I needed. They got to change your name, though to Harvey stumpy.
If only Isotunes were as comfortable as the 3M's. I bought the Isotunes a couple of years ago, at your recommendation, wore them a lot and thought nothing of it until I tried on the 3M Bluetooth Earmuffs. Oh my god what a difference in comfort. The Isotunes are hard and horrible by comparison AND I had to dismantle them after less than 12 months of weekend use and locate and fix an open circuit that was caused by the bending of the wire when folding them down after every use for storage. The real kicker is the 3M's are cheaper....
I'm not sure if you've covered this before or if it was somebody else, I've seen it and thanks for reminding me of it. I have a project to do that this tip will come in handy. Thanks Jim!
You made it look so easy and it really works so simple, make some and practice some to see how simple it can be for you. Thanks for sharing James, Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Great video. I use my tablesaw for the first reference ce as you do. However I then also set up my bandsaw and remove the wast for 1/2 lap and mostly for tenons. Thank you👍
There are more and more methods and jigs (like some finger joint jigs) that needs a kerf thick shim. It would be great if blade companies would sell exact width metal shims for these
The best shims/spacers I use in a pinch is drillbits. They double as setup blocks if its not worth making a spacer. Most people have a set of 20 or 30 in increments of 1/16 and they're precise. Single blade is usually just a 1/8 bit and you can go from there...
Many saw blades, including "full kerf" blades, are not exactly 1/8". But if you have a large set that includes 1/32 or 1/64 increments, you might find one that works.
Great tip, thanks as always. One gripe I have about isotunes is the descriptions on their website. It’s really tough to differentiate between all the over the ear bud style options they offer. Not much can be learned from the product comparison feature.
I”ve got a head slap suggestion, you know those brass spacers rattling around in your drawer. One of those is exactly 1/8”, duh. If you are cutting a dado for a drawer slide, use your table fence to set your bottom cut. Then use your scrap piece for the thickness set behind you fence, lock down with that mag block you had to have flush to the back side, remove the scrap, set the blade thickness block, move fence to the mag block with the thickness gauge, and make the top cut of the dado. Then clean the waste, no dado setup required.
Great tip that I will definitely put to use. However, I'm really curious about those badass lumber racks in your shop. Is there a vid about them? If not, could you tell us about them?
Thank you for that. I have seen some expensive jigs for sale that use the same principle (not sure about center half laps), have been looking for a cheap solution
Have you got a video on making a finger joint jig? Had a relative call to see if I have one, which I just haven't gotten around to making one, so after 3-4 tries, he went to the woodworking store to buy one. I may have to save this video, as the last time I made lap joints, I did not have a reason to call my friends and say come look at my wood joint.
I think you can eliminate the need for the wood shim if you reference the left side of the blade when setting your stop block instead of the right side. You would need to place a straightedge or piece of wood on the left side of the blade, then place your stock that you're referencing against that, then clamp your stop block. Just a thought.
I was reading through all these comments to see if anyone else thought the same thing I did. That's the way I do it, and not sure why you'd mess with a shim...? Works great for me. I just thought maybe I was missing something since no one else had mentioned it before your comment!
This is nice and helps simplify tasks that I for sure was previously over complicating, but it would have been nice if you went a bit more into detail regarding the angled cuts. You mentioned it, the angle and such, but kind of just glossed over it. Given the video's purpose it's fine, just wish it was explained as that is newer information I would have liked to learn more sufficiently.
I use isotunes 8 hours a day in a large guitar woodshop. The orange ones have too short a battery life. After one and a half days use they are empty. My previous 3M ones I would only charge once a week. Also, the comfort isn’t there with the orange ones for longtime use. Sore ears at the end of the day. When these give it up, I’m switching back to 3M
For my first-ever wood-working project in Japan (after working as a carpenter-in-training), I made a table with crossed legs on either end and did a lap joint at both cross sections. The proportions were wonky and I ended up calling it the 'batsu ashi", or "X legs". ('X', in this case, referencing the common term for an incorrect answer--batsu.:D) The 'batsu ashi' table awaits my return to the Land of the Rising Sun, someday. I'll be back. Too many akiya to not have a place there... Not to mention the currently-favorable exchange rate.
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Code does not work in the EU :(
I have used this same half lap technique from the beginning :). Great idea :) and easy to do :)
Doesn't work on the UK store which is a shame, I'd love to get some IsoTunes finally :(.
I have an idea for them: they could integrate some threshold into their gear that automatically pauses the music or what you are listening to, to make you be careful when working with a loud (and supposedly dangerous) machine. Of course you should be able to switch that of when you're working in a constantly loud environment (air filter or so).
@@DamianDArienzo @TacticalBrick87 seems like us Europeans are not entitled to get discounts
Won’t ship to Aus. Blerg.
Saw blades should include plastic shims of the same kerf.
not a bad idea, but remember: every saw has a little wobble in the blade, so I find it unlikely it would be exact ENOUGH to make this work. Good test to run I suppose
What blades are you buying that have the gauge???
👍
@@gyixtaoThan you can add some tape to the shim to get the desired thickness but it would be an easier start.
I had made several shims using 3d printer.
And to think it took over forty years for someone to show me an easier way, and it's so simple. Have I been living in a closet my whole life? Thanks James.
Every day's a school day!
Great title - I do a lot of wood work and get really tired of the “negative presumption” concept that is some guy telling me what “everyone gets wrong” or “what I don’t know” when in reality many very much know and it’s a click bait tactic. Your title and overall presentation is an honest and pragmatic effective strategy for joints that anyone can do. Bravo
I just figured this out myself 2 days ago when I cut a bunch of dados for a multi-shelf metal stock holding rack! It took me a while to figure out but it is pretty much genius! Next time please come out with your video 2 days earlier! Thank you! :)
Tip: Most blades are usually 3mm or 3/32 or 1/8 thickness, so you probably already have a drill bit of a matching thickness to use as a shim.
I use the same way. Just make a test cut and look for a drill that fits perfectly. In my case metric size.
Now there's a real tip!
Thanks for this, my brain was trying to figure out the best way to cut the shim.
Wow thx for the tip 👍
Who would’ve thought a drill bit
I was taught that 35 years ago in high school.
However I forgot all about the technique until watching this video.
Thank you for the refresher.
I LOVE half lap joints, they're my favorite. Perfect for a guy like me who's lazy AND wants a strong glued up joint! 🤣 Thanks for the great tips, yours are some of the most straight forward and easy to understand of any I've seen.
Great tips thanks. The method I use for setting blade height is to simply use a piece of wood that’s the same thickness as your project wood (think cutoff) and cut a 45 on one end flip it face down and cut the 45 again. The tip of the angle (
Another technique I've used is to use an offcut of the piece you plan to join. Rip it and then glue it back together. The rip takes out one kerf width, and the little bit of glue adds just the right amount of extra space.
That’s very clever. Thanks for the tip.
It's been awhile because of health reasons but always you give inspiration to get back and build something and I do have a list.
Get back on it! Doing good stuff helps you heal. Make you feel good about yourself at the very least. Good luck! Chronic health issues are the worst.
I'm so glad you made this video. I have never understood why the kerf jigs were so popular on other videos when they are harder to set up. I actually just use setup blocks as my spacer to match my blade kerf. They are a great gift idea for woodworkers and I find all sorts of uses for them on my projects. Another alternative is to use a drill bit.
I don’t know how you do it as often as you do, but hey man, you make my life so much better thank you.
Awesome video as always. To find the halfway point even faster, Microjig has the Fitfinder 1/2 gauge that does this in seconds without removing any stock. It is $35 though, but performs as promised.
For setting the blade height, instead of iterative passes, I just count how many crank turns (including the fractional turn at the end) it takes to raise the blade from zero (raising the blade until it barely grazes a flat scrap of wood) to the thickness of the material (teeth barely grazing the same scrap overhanging from the top surface of the workpiece). Then I lower the blade by exactly half what I have counted.
To cleanup any issues with slack, I end with a half turn of the crank down and then up again.
Great idea. Thanks
The most useful channel on youtube!
Your videos are helping me a lot. I recently watched your sanding video using poly while sanding to fill wood grain. It saved my project. Making an end table with red oak. That grain was giving me trouble. Fixed now.
I made some half lap jpints for cabinet door frames with glass within. They were white oak with a clear finish. I glued the laps with titebond and then put several 5/8"brads in the back side of the lap at angles to resist pulloout . I tried to pull apart a test piece and was amazed at how strong the joints were!
Wish I saw this 2 weeks ago when building a cabinet/base for a work table. The half laps would make assembly much simpler with accurate alignment than dowels and pocket holes. Thanks again James, another efficient technique teaching lesson.
You keep doing it,my friend. Inspiring me, that is. I’ve shied away from lap joints before, but you have made me want to go downstairs and try one. But it’s 1:01 a.m., so I’ll have to wait. But I’m going to do it. The first thing, of course, is the thin spline. Thank you again, James.
thank you much for the 30%...my son is taking construction classes at school and this will make a great Christmas gift and I can get mine back😅
I've got cabinets in my home built with this method that are 42 years old and they're as solid today as the day they were built. Dated but solid.
This is brilliant in its simplicity. Thank you for sharing this.
I don’t save many videos but I did save this one for future reference. Thanks James! 😎
You have a great talent in keeping these very informative videos short and to the point. Great work.
I actually bookmarked this video. Will need to go to this in a few weeks for a project and this was the clearest on this issue seen to date. Thanks!
I have owned a table saw for 10 years, but only now have I learnt this method. I just wish we were allowed to have Dado sets on table saws in the UK.
This is thee best woodworking channel, so informative and great tool and skill tips
That's all very....think you should do a video to make shims which is the same thickness as the blade
I've been needing some earmuffs and due to this, I have them! Thnx. Now I i just need a table saw for rip cuts.
Oh god thank you. I knew there was a way to do that correctly without any mesure. I tried to figure it out myself to be able to do that but I could not. Now I know. And that's the perfect timing as I was going to need to do something like that probably the next weekend.
Another brilliant shop aid from James! And, unlike ewjorgy, I didn't figure it out myself. Thank you for all the tips, tricks, tool tips, and all the other content you have shared over the years.
I love these simple setups that give great results. Thank you James!
Great idea! And I think a lot of people take half laps for granted. But, despite their relative simplicity they are a strong and pretty cool looking joint.
You can also use a deck of cards with the same thickness as your blade as your shim.
Out of all your videos, this will be one that I will put on my save list. Easy to understand and something I needed. They got to change your name, though to Harvey stumpy.
I enjoy all of your videos and as one who pays monthly for no ads on UA-cam I tremendously appreciate you putithem at the end. I wish everyone did.
Great info, James. Thanks for all you do to make things easier.
Another great video by Pavel Evmenov: A table made of logs. Oak 133 years old.
Thanks! Right on time. I am hoping to work with lap joints this coming weekend.
I pause to look around your workshop, it's perfection !
Really good tips. Could you come out with another video going into a little more detail about cross block?
If only Isotunes were as comfortable as the 3M's. I bought the Isotunes a couple of years ago, at your recommendation, wore them a lot and thought nothing of it until I tried on the 3M Bluetooth Earmuffs. Oh my god what a difference in comfort. The Isotunes are hard and horrible by comparison AND I had to dismantle them after less than 12 months of weekend use and locate and fix an open circuit that was caused by the bending of the wire when folding them down after every use for storage.
The real kicker is the 3M's are cheaper....
I'm not sure if you've covered this before or if it was somebody else, I've seen it and thanks for reminding me of it. I have a project to do that this tip will come in handy. Thanks Jim!
It is similar to the dado cutting technique i made a past video about.
You made it look so easy and it really works so simple, make some and practice some to see how simple it can be for you. Thanks for sharing James, Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Great video. I use my tablesaw for the first reference ce as you do. However I then also set up my bandsaw and remove the wast for 1/2 lap and mostly for tenons. Thank you👍
Thanks a bunch for the tutorial, James! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
And to think, Microjig sells a jig for setting your saw blade for half laps, but now I can do it for free in less time. Thanks James!
Great stuff as usual. Helpful tip, do not use your hands to hammer (5:36), use a mallet. You're not going to be a young buck your whole life.
Thank you for sharing, wonderful tip. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Thank you!! Ordered a pair of earmuffs, and greatly apprec iate the half lap technique!
You have shown the shim method before. Thanks for Shim 2.0! That table is stunning.
Such an amazing tip James Thank you so much for sharing this. Definitely going to save this video.
Brilliant! If you had only posted this about a week ago... still great for future projects!
There are more and more methods and jigs (like some finger joint jigs) that needs a kerf thick shim. It would be great if blade companies would sell exact width metal shims for these
Great video brother!😉👍🏾
Your teaching ability is fantastic.
This is Awesome! I wish I knew this before I cut the 26 half laps I currently have in my garage staining.
The best shims/spacers I use in a pinch is drillbits. They double as setup blocks if its not worth making a spacer. Most people have a set of 20 or 30 in increments of 1/16 and they're precise. Single blade is usually just a 1/8 bit and you can go from there...
Many saw blades, including "full kerf" blades, are not exactly 1/8". But if you have a large set that includes 1/32 or 1/64 increments, you might find one that works.
Great tip, thanks as always.
One gripe I have about isotunes is the descriptions on their website. It’s really tough to differentiate between all the over the ear bud style options they offer. Not much can be learned from the product comparison feature.
Great technique and video of how it is done. Thank you.
Thank you so much for the excellent tip! I can't wait to try it. 😃😃😃❤❤❤
Blade shim works great, every time I do them takes a little time to get my shim and remember how but it is simple 👍
You are a great tutor
I”ve got a head slap suggestion, you know those brass spacers rattling around in your drawer. One of those is exactly 1/8”, duh. If you are cutting a dado for a drawer slide, use your table fence to set your bottom cut. Then use your scrap piece for the thickness set behind you fence, lock down with that mag block you had to have flush to the back side, remove the scrap, set the blade thickness block, move fence to the mag block with the thickness gauge, and make the top cut of the dado. Then clean the waste, no dado setup required.
Except many saw blades, including "full kerf" blades, are not exactly 1/8".
you just ended my frustration building these type joints Thanks again
Thanks James, love your videos and to help repay you for all the great content over the years I ordered some isotunes. 👍
This is so fine!!! Thank you so very much for the blessings!!
Thanks, James! I learn so much from this channel!
Really wish blade manufacturers would just start including a kerf wedge with the blade.
A good technique, James. Thank you for sharing.
Great tip that I will definitely put to use. However, I'm really curious about those badass lumber racks in your shop. Is there a vid about them? If not, could you tell us about them?
Now I need a project for this technique, can't wait!
Great info , thank you.
You make things simple. How exciting!
4:42 "... and the fit will be so satisfying
that you'll be calling your friends to come and see what a master you are."
What a great line!!😊
Great tip that I know will come in handy. Thanks
Thank you for that.
I have seen some expensive jigs for sale that use the same principle (not sure about center half laps), have been looking for a cheap solution
My second favorite woodworker (I am my first favorite)!
Great clear instructional video
Very practical, useful tips!!! Thanks!
Have you got a video on making a finger joint jig? Had a relative call to see if I have one, which I just haven't gotten around to making one, so after 3-4 tries, he went to the woodworking store to buy one. I may have to save this video, as the last time I made lap joints, I did not have a reason to call my friends and say come look at my wood joint.
Great idea!
Thanks James, as always great information.
I think you can eliminate the need for the wood shim if you reference the left side of the blade when setting your stop block instead of the right side. You would need to place a straightedge or piece of wood on the left side of the blade, then place your stock that you're referencing against that, then clamp your stop block. Just a thought.
I was reading through all these comments to see if anyone else thought the same thing I did. That's the way I do it, and not sure why you'd mess with a shim...? Works great for me.
I just thought maybe I was missing something since no one else had mentioned it before your comment!
Same here. Making the shim would be more time consuming. However it made me think about finding the centre.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing 🇬🇧
Great video, love this channel, keep up the great work!
Again, BOOM! learned something new. Thank you!!!!
Great video clear and concise
You the man StumpNubs!
Very clever I love watching you every day I’m your big fan
you make it look easy.
Wouldn't it be great if saw manufacturers gave you (or had available for sale) a metal shim exactly matching the blade's kerf?
Very clever,thanks
This is nice and helps simplify tasks that I for sure was previously over complicating, but it would have been nice if you went a bit more into detail regarding the angled cuts. You mentioned it, the angle and such, but kind of just glossed over it. Given the video's purpose it's fine, just wish it was explained as that is newer information I would have liked to learn more sufficiently.
It's the same process, you just angle the miter gauge and cut the stop/shims to the same angle.
I use isotunes 8 hours a day in a large guitar woodshop. The orange ones have too short a battery life. After one and a half days use they are empty. My previous 3M ones I would only charge once a week. Also, the comfort isn’t there with the orange ones for longtime use. Sore ears at the end of the day. When these give it up, I’m switching back to 3M
Excellent
BRILLIANT!
Pretty smart! But that is what I have come to expect from you!
For my first-ever wood-working project in Japan (after working as a carpenter-in-training), I made a table with crossed legs on either end and did a lap joint at both cross sections. The proportions were wonky and I ended up calling it the 'batsu ashi", or "X legs". ('X', in this case, referencing the common term for an incorrect answer--batsu.:D) The 'batsu ashi' table awaits my return to the Land of the Rising Sun, someday. I'll be back. Too many akiya to not have a place there... Not to mention the currently-favorable exchange rate.
Great stuff, thank you.
Great information.