I hope you read this: I'm a 46 year old dude from Amsterdam the Netherlands. I never touched woodworking because of my father. Who was a woodworker! But his gruff way of "non-explaining" how to do things made me hate the whole thing. Watching you, learning from you, is filling in the gaps my late father left behind. And now I'm starting to understand what he was trying to teach me, and why he was doing things the way he wanted me to do it. So, without a doubt, you are helping me understand my father better even when he is no longer around. And I thank you for it... It's meaningful to me.
My father was a good carpenter & never explained his methods. I later that he was in a mode to work fast to complete a job. He never switched into a teacher mode.
My father was a wood/plastic/metal pattern maker from germany, the only thing I was ever taught was don't touch my tools , ever, i'd been beaten enough to obey that! My shop teacher in grade 7-8 taught me as much as he could, I taught myself the rest quit woodworking at 18 only took it back up at 55
Props for keeping the original workshop audio so prominent in the video. Watching this I realized how much just hearing what the wood should sound like when being worked or cut matters - something a book or magazine can't really offer.
I'm very much a casual wood worker and I think an idea people need to keep in mind is to creep up to your lines. Once you master this skill most joints become much easier because I think that's where most people's problems come in.
With that in mind, it's also a good idea to mark your waste, so you can be certain you're cutting into the waste rather than cutting your joinery too wide to begin with. Definitely not something I've done before...
I had the same experience,@@wyssmaster. Once I saw folks on UA-cam doing that, I started doing that, too. It was a game-changer for me. Now I mark everything very clearly and deliberately, even if it seems simple. Then I double-check as I go along with everything that I'm doing. *Far* fewer mistakes, lots more fun and satisfaction!
Your commitment to detail in discussing this "basic joint" was both refreshing and welcome. I really appreciated this video and hope to see more just like it.
I've been using the half dovetail joint for 50 years making reproduction furniture and cabinetry and never had one to fail me. I also make a reproduction 1774 tavern step stool with thru dovetails on the top and the sides and then a half dovetail joint brace between the sides. Sold 100's of them and never had a failure. Anyone getting into woodworking and joinery should watch this video. Simple and straight forward. Thanks for sharing.
You're an awesome instructor. This requires not only mastery of the skills you are teaching, but also mastery of the language you teach in. Everything is articulated so well.
This brought back memories working with my dad on a popsicle stick bridge back in my youth. We had 100 popsicle sticks to build with and my dad being a carpenter had lots of wood glue. We built a bridge that could stand 400lbs of weight as well as 2 grown men standing on the weight pulling down. The bridge only broke when they started jumping on the weight. Needless to say I earned my plaque on the trophy that year and learned the strength of glued sticks and clamps. One of, if not my favorite memory growing up.
How long of a span did the bridge have? And, were they popsicle sticks or tongue depressors? (I ask because I’ve often heard tongue depressors referred to as popsicle sticks, even though they are bigger and stronger than popsicle sticks.) Impressive either way!
@@robertberger8642 No they were legit popsicle sticks. The were 3 stipulations: there needed to be a 1/2" hole in the middle for the bolt, it needed to be 16" long so it fit between the sawhorses, and a toy car needed to be able to fit along it. Using lots of glue, triangles, and clamps you can do a lot.
This is more important than people may think starting out. Secretly hidden in the value of a half-lap are detailed examples of how to prep, how to mark, how to saw and how to clean up a joint. I think it's good you left out measuring because that's a whole skill set by itself.
I love how natural the recording is. Even with mic failure and single camera view this video is interesting to watch. And thank you for showing this options. I'm not even in woodworking and enjoyed whole part.
I don't think I have watched a better demonstration with so much clarity on the subject. My favorite woodworking channel along with Paul Sellers channel.
Your videos are always a breath of fresh air. No over-priced machinery, all common sense and instructions based on actual experience. I bought the Compass Rose router plane kit several months ago. I was in the market, but didn't want a plane that looked like it was from outer space nor did I want a cheap plane from an unknown entity. I got frustrated looking for an older model. It's beautiful and works perfectly. I used a simple tung oil/wax finish on it. Thx.
Thank you Rex ;) I think that reminding people of different joinery, especially different, simple, joinery is a really valuable practice. There's more to woodworking than dovetails ;) Having a variety of effective joinery methods to choose from allows us to make aesthetic choices and frees us from the tyranny of always having to use the same "Best Joint".
I did not think I needed to watch this video (seemed to simple), but I was wrong, and I was doing things that were not the best way to do it. I have learn quite a bit. Thanks Rex
Rex, you’ve done many fine videos over the years but this one is your best work yet! It’s exactly what I need and I’m sure others will agree. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Yea, I built your English Joiner's bench during the first lockdown. I built it on the kitchen table and assembled it in the spare room down the hall after removing the carpet. Bought an old Record 52 on eBay for €25 and I was all set. It's definitely a great option for beginners, and it's held up fantasticly so far.
It's so fascinating to see all the little tricks that seem so intuitive once you know them, but would be incredibly difficult to figure out on your own. Stuff like tapping the gauge to adjust it and where to brace the board while marking it (stomach, thigh, etc) are probably things that developed over generations of woodworkers finding neat little tricks and offhandedly mentioning them to their friends, and then inadvertently (or perhaps intentionally) passing down to their kids as they grew up and naturally asked why things were done certain ways. It's things like this that people don't realize they need to be taught because we generally don't just inherit careers from our parents anymore. I think that's a good thing in the big picture, since it gives people more agency in how they live their lives, but it also goes to show that we need people like Rex sharing these techniques so they don't get lost
I really want to thank you for making me a better woodworker. Seems like every time I watch one of your videos I have questions answered that I didn't even know I needed to ask; in just a couple of years I've gone from being a welder that knew how to drive a screw into a board to a woodworker that knows how to weld lol
You’ve taken me back to the very little woodwork I “learned” in school! I so wish I’d paid more attention… I’ve come back into woodworking solely from the aim of making electric guitars, but the ‘orthodox’ side of the craft is very useful indeed! I’ve spent a year off with a broken arm that won’t heal - I’m getting a plate finally put in next month, so a bit of rehab and I’ll be back to work… at last!
As someone who has been doing this sort of work recently to make shop/garage furniture I say: The most important part of this video is the initial planing of a face and truing of an edge. Also, notice rex is using a big marking gauge, unlike those smaller wheel ones, as those will wobble and not give good results on raw construction lumber because of the rounded corners. If your marks are not accurate it doesn't matter how accurate your cuts are.
Rex, Thanks for the tutorial. The technique of putting the knife in the mark and then moving the square to the knife is something I learned at age 65+, from Paul Sellers. You and Paul are among the few who talk about that very basic technique. Thanks to both of you!
This is a whole different level. I'm over here using a circular saw and modern house framing techniques such as face mounting unprepared 2x4's with 3" deck screws. I hope that some day I actually get a table saw.
I recently made 2 pocket joints with nothing but a coping saw and a chisel. I'm not a carpenter. But they were tight, very precise and easy to make. I got my inspiration from Crimson Guitars.
Rex, this was really nicely done. All of this stuff seems completely obvious, but it really isn’t. There are a lot of little details that you did a masterful job of covering.
I love your videos like this where you break it down so simply and into easy steps! In my experience in working with woodworkers less experienced than me (and memories of my early woodworking) they see us do these cuts and joints and it just looks so easy. They think they should be able to be successful first try! But they forget they need to get some cheap wood and make a bunch of practice cuts and improve their saw techniques.
As a guy firmly in the newbie camp here, I can attest to your being 100% correct. Skill always seems simple until you have to actually apply it. "Cut straight" is child's play in my mind. Actually controlling the movement of a saw in 3D space … not so much. Once you actually start doing, that's when you find yourself lost in details you never even noticed before. Advice about how to position a piece so you can see more than one line, etc. become invaluable; but even so, the boring business of repetition to build actual skill is the only way forward. I've got a dozen hobbies in which I "understand" quite a lot, but only a couple where I can actually compose/build/create anything worthwhile. The difference never seems to be in how good the information I can find is or how much I learn. It's always in how much I practice!
Great in-depth video and explanation!!! The only thing is to keep in mind that the operations require a certain amount of patience!! I always fight against the urge to get things done too quickly, doesn’t always work!!!
this is why i watch your videos.. truly excellent foundational information.. yes, I can build fancy things occasionally, and yes I know how to use my tools, but damn, there's so many things I dont know, and this video has a bunch of gold
absolutely incredible levels in the instructions. Clear, concise and very detailed. Ive doen a few courses so i am familiar with the tools and techniques but learnt a LOT from watching you run over these joints the way you did, explaining everything from tools to body position as you did. huge thanks
Wow I've been making half lap joints when I started framing houses at 14. I had to build saw horses with no help from anyone part of the new guys job. They're not hard If you're having trouble making a half lap joint you need to step back and figure out what you're doing wrong. Slow down and just get the job done. Remember, slow down to go fast That's how it all works slow down means you learn. To go fast means you have been doing it for a while. Now I know somebody's going to read this comment and think I'm an ass. But where I come from. That's a compliment. Thank you. Bring it.
You're right, I've worked in many factory jobs and I learned that when first starting a new task I would work really slow and purposeful ensuring I did everything right but slow, once the pattern has been created and your tools etc are placed where I would automatically go to reach for them, the speed just increases and increases to bizarre speeds. Every day I did the jobs, I not only smashed targets but also produced the highest amount every single day.
I don’t know if this will help but I had the same issue for a long time however since switching to Japanese pull saws I have improved big time.. I didn’t spend a fortune just a basic ryoba saw (less than 30 euros) I find accuracy far easier to achieve now.
@@clemmcguinness1087 I'll stand by your constitutional right to be negative towards wasps. It's tucked away in the fine print where it says, 'Liberty, pursuit of happiness, and the universal dislike of uninvited picnic guests.
I love your videos, I am just getting into woodworking, so I am hungry to get info,I am on the tools purchase mission,so your advice is appreciated. What I like about your videos is that you have not forgotten we were all beginners once
I've been watching you and James for a long time but never really had the time to get into woodworking. Last week I needed a stand for my new rain barrel and knocked something together with a bunch of half laps out of 4x4s. It's pretty rough but it was a lot of fun to build. Thanks for all the great videos over the past few years, no way I'd have tried that without these great resources available.
I love watching this kind of joinery. being a hobbiest and a home diyer I probably won't use much of this in my work around the house and stuff since I only get so many hours during the weekend to get shit done but it's always a pleasure watching a master at their craft go to work.
Rex, I like your style. Explaining very well, without any Bravado. I also see that you are aquatinted with Paul Sellers, another of my woodworking mentors. Thank You!
I started using half lap joints for gates I was making, and for a fairly large shed door. The shed has 2 doors, each about 7' tall & 4' wide. It's been in an environment where the temperature ranges from 24 deg. to 104 deg., and the barrel bolt I put in it still just slides into place! I LOVE half lap joints!
The dovetail could well be weaker than the plain half lap. The compressive forces concentrate at the inside lower corner, causing the upper inside corner to pry apart. Wood is weak in tension across the grain. The plain half lap distributes the compressive forces more evenly. There is less twist exerted on the upper inside corner. Flipping the dovetail edge to the top might make it more resistant to downward force. The occurrence up upward shock would be mighty rare. Yes, the joint survived, even though there was a wood failure that would make it more susceptible to a second shock. But in a controlled test I suspect that the plain half lap would require much more force to fail regardless of orientation. I was really glad to see this test!!
@@robertberger8642 That's the theory. The tests I have seen show something different. Back when glues weren't all that strong, dovetails provided a mechanical connection that resisted forces better than the glues did. But now with glues that are stronger than lignin, that connection and the cross-grain cuts it requires are no longer needed.
Long time viewer, infrequent commenter here: I love your channel! It inspires me to get out there and MAKE stuff. And you teach me how to do it, as well. Thank you, much love!
Most key joints in benches are mortise and tenon, single or double mortises depending on the width, thickness of the stock being used. These are used most often in joints between stretchers and legs and also vertically at joints between legs and upper stretchers. Aprons on table are sometimes dovetails which looks great, is strong. Half laps tho are a definite option between stretchers and legs.
Sacrificed my ADHD and watched the whole thing for the algorithm because I learned so much. Looking to start a biz and am happy to have found your channel.
Thanks I learned several things, including on how to use my marking tool etc.! It really helps to "see" your attitude, planning and example as you work.
18:55 There’s an alternative to this, which I learned from watching a Japanese UA-camr. It’s called kigoroshi, and the technique is to use repeated, careful mallet blows to actually compress the wood of the tenon (or equivalent) so that it will fit without being trimmed to the exact size right size. (It does have to be close, though.) After compression, water or glue is applied and the joint is assembled. The water (or water from the glue) will then be absorbed by the compressed part, causing it to expand and lock the joint together. I’m eager to try this myself, because it seems like it would make a *really* strong joint.
Combine this with undercutting the shoulders a wee bit and you could get the half lap to wedge itself into the slot as if it was dovetailed across its thickness as well.
Comes at a right time as I was wondering about the best joint for a frame for a screen. This overlap fits the job, strong enough, less skill intensive. I see that you also has your own way to saw. I think that praticing sawing is the key to find what suits someone. After trying quite different techniques, I was able to feel that sawing from the sitting position with a japanese saw is the way for me. Just feels natural and more stable, even without a workbench. Most important thing to remember : let the saw follows its track with gentle touch. Brute force is useless. I also found that the blade of a japanese saw doesn't really follow its track once I take a break. So sawing in one go is key apparently. Well, just pratice like you mentioned again.
Paul Sellers also recomends filing joinery saws rip. That always seemed awkward to me, until I started working with hardwoods. Small crosscut saws are onyl really useful for softwood I discovered.
With a fine tooth pitch I don't think crosscut does anything for you. Especially when you're doing the knife wall. But the saw being good and sharp is a plus. Good handsaws are not as common now as they once were. Your typical hardware store special today is pretty poor. If you want to do this hand tool woodworking thing you pretty much have to learn how to sharpen handsaws.
@@1pcfreddefinitely a worthwhile skill to master, one I hope to develop. Paul Sellars has at least one good video on this as I’m sure does Rex and others. I’m wondering what is the real distinction between really expensive saws and much less expensive ones. I’m guessing it’s the tooth details as well as the steel used etc.
@@victoryak86 yeah saws have different handles, different plates, the teeth are done differently. There's a lot of differences. What you like will probably be different than what someone else likes. Everyone's journey is going to be different. I know what I've gone through and I doubt what you go through will be the same. Finding the right saw can be a challenge. We're not living in the peak handsaw era. Right now I'm agonizing over what files to buy. That's gotten ridiculous. I don't want to buy the wrong ones. At the same time I'm not sure what the right ones are. I have an old Disston backsaw I need to touch up. I was lucky enough to find it. Now I want to do right by it. What files you use really makes or breaks the sharpening experience.
@@victoryak86 I wish I knew easy answers. I haven't found any myself yet though. The sad truth is that joinery saws are relatively rare tools. I looked for a long time. If you want to spend money you can get something. But if you like a deal they're few and far between. In my life I've only ever managed to run across one good joinery saw. Maybe I'm just not lucky? But when I did run across it I did buy it. I am now the proud owner of a very good condition 10" Disston backsaw. Before then I did go through the trouble of making myself a backsaw. A guy can't wait forever. That came out pretty good too. I downloaded a handle pattern off Blackburn tools. I'd picked up one of those cranked flush cutting saws made for trimming mouldings. I took the offset out of it, filed new teeth into it and fitted it into the handle I'd made. It's not bad. I enjoy using that because I made it too. So that's an option.
For #4, what you have is actually better in resisting downward force. You will effective the same cross section as if nothing was cut away since the dove tail shoulder is in compression with the wood. If you flip it, your cross section is smaller because you are relying on the glue to make up for the cross section. Wedging action is the same (mechanically) on both sides. It’s also important to note that the material removed to make the dove tail create a stress concentration at the 90° angle if you flip it. It’s less of an issue the way you had it because the shoulder is in compression.
As a former software engineer, what I've noticed in cutting that exact halflap for a trailer fence is that the muscle memory, strength, and the practice of using the saw is far different for us newblet schlubs than it is when a professional like Rex or Paul do the exact same thing, it's like watching the Olympics of wood cutting and then trying to match it. I know Rex has had his editor(?) do a cut before to show that even newbs can do it, and I also know Rex has shown stuff being done with a commodity saw as well, but in the end what I find makes my joints a bit better is not just doing a knife wall to start my saw cut, but also having a knife wall going down both sides of my cut helps keep the saw on track as well. Even then muscle tracking for me isn't as straight, nor is my chisel work, and when you're relying on 5 surfaces to all be accurate as in the non-dovetail halflap, then your opportunity for error quintuples. All that being said, my trailer fences on my second set of them are holding up remarkably better than the first set I made... but the wood filler is definitely chipping out, and if I hadn't driven in two 1 3/4" screws I'm sure they'd have failed.
Used a lapped dovetail on a brace under the plywood top of my model railroad framing along with other joinery. It is/was my first project with joinery and I dedicated it to my joiner/builder/cratemaker ancestors and my father.
I'm mounting a motor to a cider press grinder via a worm gear speed reducer. The motor will be mounted 90° off-axis from the grinder. I made a 45° tongue and groove test miter, and couldn't break it. I can apply what I learned from this video to make the joinery more precise. Thank you!
I had this Video Pop Up on UA-cam and decided to watch it. I’m glad I did. I don’t do any Woodworking unless I just need to repair a Bench or something made out of Wood. I have been wanting to build a nice Workbench, some Shelving, Carts and other things. I just didn’t really Trust the sturdiness if it wasn’t done correctly. I Subscribed and plan on joining your Patreon Channel. I like how you take your Time to show how you make the Cuts, the marking of the Cuts, and Trimming to Fit. This was a very well put together Video, and I feel like following your advice on things that I will be able to do it. You really got my interest in Woodworking Peaked.👍👍
I used half laps when i built my bookbinding bench on your recommendation from the English bench video. I didnt even use glue, just screws, because i needed it to come apart for a move. Its really solid, no movement at all even with my iffy joinery and cheap lumber.
In practice, those rails are almost always going to be supported at both ends, as they are in your English workbench. Your dovetail joint could be held with a wedge, or perhaps even a dowel.
I've seen several of your videos but haven't for a few months. I don't know what it is but the whole production value and your presentation on this video is so much better. Keep it up.
I am building a pre-war timber framed car. Had no idea how before I started (and information on traditional coachbuilding is hard to find) so I thought I better learn some woodworking which is how I found your channel. Ended up all I needed was fairly simple half lap and spline joints. But these sort of 'simple' films are super useful for even basic woodwork. They've definitely helped me be a better minimal woodworker!
I used carriage bolts on the half lap joints of my workbench that lives in my unheated garage in northern Vermont. Each spring I tighten the nuts, and they are good for the season.
This is a wonderfully executed master class on the half lap joint! I really hope you make this a series on different joints and their strengths and weaknesses. I very much enjoy your work and look forward to seeing your videos when they drop.
Half lap joints are great. Easy, simple and quick and perfect for when all the force is going to be against the shoulders and you don’t expect there to be any twisting. Like a shelf support.
I have done some simple diy deck and shed construction with some timber framing methods that used half laps to connect posts to beams. What I learned was that joints can become quite inaccurate if your lumber isn’t square. If you have twists or bows or if you have knots in your wood that result in inconsistent thickness in your lumber, using squares to mark layouts will not result in square cuts. So when you need to cut any kind of lap joints - half lap or cross lap- or even if you want to mark and cut square, You should at least check if your lumber dimensions are irregular. You probably don’t need to plane an entire piece, but sometimes it helps to plane or use other methods to prepare the dimensions and faces of your lumber around the cut areas so you can get properly fitting joints.
I find it funny you uploaded this now. I just watched the original bench video yesterday and am really considering building it! Would you be will to do a video where you analyze some joints and see which might be good or bad for a workbench? I built a bench using a castle joint just because I thought the joint looks cool but not sure if its a bad joint for a work bench.
I just built the joiners bench and I'm loving it. I still need to add the half lap crosses so this is perfect for me :) I made some modifications to the original design as well and just did it by watching the videos. I'm thinking for fun I should try doing the sunk half lap joint and adding it to the back beam as well. Though I was wondering about adding a shelf to the bench too. Fun stuff thanks Rex.
Practice is key. Now I'm still young and lack a true workshop setup which is sacrificing a lot of accuracy on my projects because of the lack of room, but that's why I do little projects to help improve my skills. I got knowledge all across the trades, but that experience makes all the difference and doing little projects still improves your skills
I built my first workbench a year ago, a kind of hybrid design that is mostly a Nicholson bench. I did half-lap joints for most of the joinery (the full version, with the interlocking components) and I made every mistake a monkey could make. For instance, the trick of making the joint deliberately too tight and then planing the intersecting surface did not occur to me, obvious though it may be, so instead I made the joints too tight and then tried to trim down the shoulder a micron at a time (by cross-cutting on my table saw). Of course I overdid it once or twice and had to re-cut a piece. Also, I didn't have a router plane (still don't), so getting the cheeks perfectly flat was pretty much impossible; I had to settle for 'flat enough.' Doing through-tenons for the stretchers seemed too ambitious, so I did the poor-workman's version: cut half-laps in each half of a leg, creating a rectangular tenon when I glued the halves together. The resulting bench definitely looks amateurish when I compare it to a lot of the workbench porn here on UA-cam, but I'm still very happy with it. It is absolutely rock-solid, I cannot rock it or twist it in any direction by any perceptible amount at all. Oh, and I checked out an old workbench at the North Haven (Maine) historical society museum, the bench was used for 80 years to build wooden boats Back In The Day...and it was beat all to hell by the end of its days but was still doing its job long after the man who built it was dead and gone, so who cares if mine doesn't look great? I mention all of this because: (1) Thank you, Rex, for saying in an earlier video that if you need a workbench just go ahead and get started, don't keep dithering about what kind and don't worry about making it perfect because I don't have the skills yet to make it perfect. All of that was great advice. (You also said to expect to build another one someday when you have better skills, but I don't think I'll have to. I think this bench will last the rest of my life, and that whoever ends up with it after me will be able to use it for several more decades, if they don't mind how it looks). Also (2) anyone else who has read this far: you can do it. You don't have to just use hand tools like Rex does, use whatever works. But think it through. You know that thing about 'measure twice, cut once'? Terrible advice. 'Think three times, measure twice, sneak up on the cut', that's my version. Thinking is the key. Most of my mistakes were not physical ones, they were conceptual...including boneheaded things like cutting the wrong face of a workpiece. (3) As long as I'm giving advice, here's one more for newbies like me: don't be in a hurry. If you only have fifteen minutes and you want to make some progress, sharpen a chisel or lay out something but don't actually make the cut. At my level and probably yours, you need more time than you think to even do simple stuff.
For a work bench, just add a couple of screws and everything else is just aesthetics. Half lap is my favorite joint. When it comes to a combination of strength, speed, ease of use and the flush look, I don't think anything else beats it.
Nothing at all wrong with half lap joints. Especially the full (2 sided) half laps as shown. And the perfect companion for half laps or even full tenons is a large'ish sole router plane. After I made and used my first router plane I wondered why I had not gotten one a couple of decades earlier. Just SOO much easier and accurate. Anyway, a great video on a basic but totally useable joint
You mentioned adding two screws and you re correct, while I’m sitting here thinking three dowels all the way through are aesthetically appealing and likely stronger yet. Cheers.
I use the dovetailed half lap all the time it holds good I just use 2 to 3 dowls and glue to finish it off to add to the appeal 👍 I allso bevle bolth sides and bevle them a little less thanks again
Sawing is one of those things. Part of it is you and part of it is the saw itself. Some saws are definitely better than others are. If you're game you may even be able to improve the performance of some saws too. But sharpening saws is not always a simple thing itself. I still can't get the hang of fine tooth crosscuts. At a certain pitch I don't think it even matters. A sharp fine rip is going to cut good too. When you touch the teeth of a saw with your fingertips it should feel like needles.
I really liked seeing the tests at the end. Sometimes I'll see people put weight on joints to come up with a number, but it's really good to see you just pound on them. I don't care about the number. I can get a better sense from your tests how strong those joints are.
As you stated the strength test is not scientific but it is a great demonstration of joint construction. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
When you said a monkey can do it and I couldn't, I took it was, this is approachable to learn. 🎉 I used some fasteners with the full overlap because I don't have a soul but it works well for garage stuff.
I hope you read this: I'm a 46 year old dude from Amsterdam the Netherlands. I never touched woodworking because of my father. Who was a woodworker! But his gruff way of "non-explaining" how to do things made me hate the whole thing.
Watching you, learning from you, is filling in the gaps my late father left behind. And now I'm starting to understand what he was trying to teach me, and why he was doing things the way he wanted me to do it.
So, without a doubt, you are helping me understand my father better even when he is no longer around. And I thank you for it... It's meaningful to me.
might be ok, sometimes, should be, one way...c'mon man give us some direction here..
@@stevefletcher52 ?? I do not understand
That's a cool story! I had a father like that so I can understand importance of this to you, have a great day!!!
My father was a good carpenter & never explained his methods. I later that he was in a mode to work fast to complete a job. He never switched into a teacher mode.
My father was a wood/plastic/metal pattern maker from germany, the only thing I was ever taught was don't touch my tools , ever, i'd been beaten enough to obey that! My shop teacher in grade 7-8 taught me as much as he could, I taught myself the rest quit woodworking at 18 only took it back up at 55
Props for keeping the original workshop audio so prominent in the video. Watching this I realized how much just hearing what the wood should sound like when being worked or cut matters - something a book or magazine can't really offer.
I'm very much a casual wood worker and I think an idea people need to keep in mind is to creep up to your lines. Once you master this skill most joints become much easier because I think that's where most people's problems come in.
With that in mind, it's also a good idea to mark your waste, so you can be certain you're cutting into the waste rather than cutting your joinery too wide to begin with. Definitely not something I've done before...
I had the same experience,@@wyssmaster. Once I saw folks on UA-cam doing that, I started doing that, too. It was a game-changer for me. Now I mark everything very clearly and deliberately, even if it seems simple. Then I double-check as I go along with everything that I'm doing. *Far* fewer mistakes, lots more fun and satisfaction!
🎉
Yep. I often get impatient and overcut, despite going in with good intentions lol.
@@christ9359 story of my damn life...😣
Your commitment to detail in discussing this "basic joint" was both refreshing and welcome. I really appreciated this video and hope to see more just like it.
I've been using the half dovetail joint for 50 years making reproduction furniture and cabinetry and never had one to fail me. I also make a reproduction 1774 tavern step stool with thru dovetails on the top and the sides and then a half dovetail joint brace between the sides. Sold 100's of them and never had a failure. Anyone getting into woodworking and joinery should watch this video. Simple and straight forward. Thanks for sharing.
Did you guys notice that no Power Tools were involved? None whatsoever. No advertising. Just showing us how to do things simply. I say AWESOME 👍👍👍!
You're an awesome instructor. This requires not only mastery of the skills you are teaching, but also mastery of the language you teach in. Everything is articulated so well.
Reminds me of how my woodshop teacher 40 years ago worked and taught us monkeys. Thanks for keeping the craftmanship alive.
This brought back memories working with my dad on a popsicle stick bridge back in my youth. We had 100 popsicle sticks to build with and my dad being a carpenter had lots of wood glue. We built a bridge that could stand 400lbs of weight as well as 2 grown men standing on the weight pulling down. The bridge only broke when they started jumping on the weight. Needless to say I earned my plaque on the trophy that year and learned the strength of glued sticks and clamps. One of, if not my favorite memory growing up.
Cough Cough BS 100 popsicle sticks. I don't think so. I gotta see that, you got pictures???? real proof??? BS. Stop lying.
Please share the 100 popsicle stick bridge that supports ~800lbs shifting weight with the world my dude!
If you used 200 popsicle sticks, would it have held 800 pounds?
How long of a span did the bridge have? And, were they popsicle sticks or tongue depressors? (I ask because I’ve often heard tongue depressors referred to as popsicle sticks, even though they are bigger and stronger than popsicle sticks.) Impressive either way!
@@robertberger8642 No they were legit popsicle sticks. The were 3 stipulations: there needed to be a 1/2" hole in the middle for the bolt, it needed to be 16" long so it fit between the sawhorses, and a toy car needed to be able to fit along it. Using lots of glue, triangles, and clamps you can do a lot.
This is more important than people may think starting out. Secretly hidden in the value of a half-lap are detailed examples of how to prep, how to mark, how to saw and how to clean up a joint. I think it's good you left out measuring because that's a whole skill set by itself.
I love how natural the recording is. Even with mic failure and single camera view this video is interesting to watch.
And thank you for showing this options. I'm not even in woodworking and enjoyed whole part.
The workshop, lighting, videography, and editing look great. We noticed.
I don't think I have watched a better demonstration with so much clarity on the subject. My favorite woodworking channel along with Paul Sellers channel.
Your videos are always a breath of fresh air. No over-priced machinery, all common sense and instructions based on actual experience. I bought the Compass Rose router plane kit several months ago. I was in the market, but didn't want a plane that looked like it was from outer space nor did I want a cheap plane from an unknown entity. I got frustrated looking for an older model. It's beautiful and works perfectly. I used a simple tung oil/wax finish on it. Thx.
Thank you Rex ;) I think that reminding people of different joinery, especially different, simple, joinery is a really valuable practice. There's more to woodworking than dovetails ;) Having a variety of effective joinery methods to choose from allows us to make aesthetic choices and frees us from the tyranny of always having to use the same "Best Joint".
I did not think I needed to watch this video (seemed to simple), but I was wrong, and I was doing things that were not the best way to do it. I have learn quite a bit. Thanks Rex
Damn, the angled halflap dovetail joint looks doable and still 100% rock solid. This is a joy to watch.
Rex, you’ve done many fine videos over the years but this one is your best work yet! It’s exactly what I need and I’m sure others will agree. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Yea, I built your English Joiner's bench during the first lockdown. I built it on the kitchen table and assembled it in the spare room down the hall after removing the carpet.
Bought an old Record 52 on eBay for €25 and I was all set.
It's definitely a great option for beginners, and it's held up fantasticly so far.
It's so fascinating to see all the little tricks that seem so intuitive once you know them, but would be incredibly difficult to figure out on your own. Stuff like tapping the gauge to adjust it and where to brace the board while marking it (stomach, thigh, etc) are probably things that developed over generations of woodworkers finding neat little tricks and offhandedly mentioning them to their friends, and then inadvertently (or perhaps intentionally) passing down to their kids as they grew up and naturally asked why things were done certain ways. It's things like this that people don't realize they need to be taught because we generally don't just inherit careers from our parents anymore. I think that's a good thing in the big picture, since it gives people more agency in how they live their lives, but it also goes to show that we need people like Rex sharing these techniques so they don't get lost
Would've liked to see a diagonal one like in the bench build. But great and informative. Feeling more confident in approaching these joints.
I really want to thank you for making me a better woodworker. Seems like every time I watch one of your videos I have questions answered that I didn't even know I needed to ask; in just a couple of years I've gone from being a welder that knew how to drive a screw into a board to a woodworker that knows how to weld lol
As a retired metal worker you explain a simple joint beautifully you explain in simple terms well done you make a good teacher
You’ve taken me back to the very little woodwork I “learned” in school!
I so wish I’d paid more attention… I’ve come back into woodworking solely from the aim of making electric guitars, but the ‘orthodox’ side of the craft is very useful indeed! I’ve spent a year off with a broken arm that won’t heal - I’m getting a plate finally put in next month, so a bit of rehab and I’ll be back to work… at last!
I had a nasty smash on my upper arm. Big girder, and several plates. The therapy is rough, but work at it, and you can get it almost all back.
My favourite joint. I made a huge garden gate last week with 6 halflap joints. Yay
As someone who has been doing this sort of work recently to make shop/garage furniture I say: The most important part of this video is the initial planing of a face and truing of an edge. Also, notice rex is using a big marking gauge, unlike those smaller wheel ones, as those will wobble and not give good results on raw construction lumber because of the rounded corners. If your marks are not accurate it doesn't matter how accurate your cuts are.
Rex, Thanks for the tutorial. The technique of putting the knife in the mark and then moving the square to the knife is something I learned at age 65+, from Paul Sellers. You and Paul are among the few who talk about that very basic technique. Thanks to both of you!
This is a whole different level. I'm over here using a circular saw and modern house framing techniques such as face mounting unprepared 2x4's with 3" deck screws. I hope that some day I actually get a table saw.
Well, if you lived near southern Tennessee I'd certainly give you an old Craftsman modular iron top table saw.
I recently made 2 pocket joints with nothing but a coping saw and a chisel. I'm not a carpenter. But they were tight, very precise and easy to make. I got my inspiration from Crimson Guitars.
Rex, this was really nicely done. All of this stuff seems completely obvious, but it really isn’t. There are a lot of little details that you did a masterful job of covering.
such a solid video of essential fundamentals, good job man, I never get tired of seeing someone do great work
Such a well executed presetation Rex! Very enjoyable to watch that refreshes way back when I was at colledge of furniture in the 70's London. UK 😀
I love your videos like this where you break it down so simply and into easy steps! In my experience in working with woodworkers less experienced than me (and memories of my early woodworking) they see us do these cuts and joints and it just looks so easy. They think they should be able to be successful first try! But they forget they need to get some cheap wood and make a bunch of practice cuts and improve their saw techniques.
As a guy firmly in the newbie camp here, I can attest to your being 100% correct. Skill always seems simple until you have to actually apply it. "Cut straight" is child's play in my mind. Actually controlling the movement of a saw in 3D space … not so much. Once you actually start doing, that's when you find yourself lost in details you never even noticed before. Advice about how to position a piece so you can see more than one line, etc. become invaluable; but even so, the boring business of repetition to build actual skill is the only way forward.
I've got a dozen hobbies in which I "understand" quite a lot, but only a couple where I can actually compose/build/create anything worthwhile. The difference never seems to be in how good the information I can find is or how much I learn. It's always in how much I practice!
Great in-depth video and explanation!!! The only thing is to keep in mind that the operations require a certain amount of patience!! I always fight against the urge to get things done too quickly, doesn’t always work!!!
this is why i watch your videos.. truly excellent foundational information.. yes, I can build fancy things occasionally, and yes I know how to use my tools, but damn, there's so many things I dont know, and this video has a bunch of gold
absolutely incredible levels in the instructions. Clear, concise and very detailed. Ive doen a few courses so i am familiar with the tools and techniques but learnt a LOT from watching you run over these joints the way you did, explaining everything from tools to body position as you did. huge thanks
Wow I've been making half lap joints when I started framing houses at 14. I had to build saw horses with no help from anyone part of the new guys job. They're not hard If you're having trouble making a half lap joint you need to step back and figure out what you're doing wrong. Slow down and just get the job done. Remember, slow down to go fast That's how it all works slow down means you learn. To go fast means you have been doing it for a while. Now I know somebody's going to read this comment and think I'm an ass. But where I come from. That's a compliment. Thank you. Bring it.
You're right, I've worked in many factory jobs and I learned that when first starting a new task I would work really slow and purposeful ensuring I did everything right but slow, once the pattern has been created and your tools etc are placed where I would automatically go to reach for them, the speed just increases and increases to bizarre speeds. Every day I did the jobs, I not only smashed targets but also produced the highest amount every single day.
Monkeys, wasps and spiders can cut straighter than me ... but Rex, I'll give this a go😊
Yes thank you I can’t cut straight or flat to save my life lol I guess I should try this out too
I don’t know if this will help but I had the same issue for a long time however since switching to Japanese pull saws I have improved big time.. I didn’t spend a fortune just a basic ryoba saw (less than 30 euros) I find accuracy far easier to achieve now.
Have you seen how straight of lines spiders can make? I think it's unfair to most of us to compare someone with spiders
@@Apillicus sorry, I did not intend to be spiderist, but I maintain my constitutional right to be negative towards wasps ...
@@clemmcguinness1087 I'll stand by your constitutional right to be negative towards wasps. It's tucked away in the fine print where it says, 'Liberty, pursuit of happiness, and the universal dislike of uninvited picnic guests.
I love your videos, I am just getting into woodworking, so I am hungry to get info,I am on the tools purchase mission,so your advice is appreciated. What I like about your videos is that you have not forgotten we were all beginners once
Love the premise "I should not tell you its easy, I should make it easy" and also rest of the video is also great.
I used the wedge joint on my first bench.... excellent result!.... thank you for sharing
I've been watching you and James for a long time but never really had the time to get into woodworking. Last week I needed a stand for my new rain barrel and knocked something together with a bunch of half laps out of 4x4s. It's pretty rough but it was a lot of fun to build. Thanks for all the great videos over the past few years, no way I'd have tried that without these great resources available.
I love watching this kind of joinery. being a hobbiest and a home diyer I probably won't use much of this in my work around the house and stuff since I only get so many hours during the weekend to get shit done but it's always a pleasure watching a master at their craft go to work.
Rex, I like your style. Explaining very well, without any Bravado. I also see that you are aquatinted with Paul Sellers, another of my woodworking mentors. Thank You!
I always use half laps when I need something strong and not fussy. Excellent video.
Oh man I ve missed these sort of videos from you Rex!
Even if you are not building anything that requires a half lap creating this joint is a great way to relieve stress. I do it all the time
I started using half lap joints for gates I was making, and for a fairly large shed door. The shed has 2 doors, each about 7' tall & 4' wide. It's been in an environment where the temperature ranges from 24 deg. to 104 deg., and the barrel bolt I put in it still just slides into place!
I LOVE half lap joints!
The dovetail could well be weaker than the plain half lap. The compressive forces concentrate at the inside lower corner, causing the upper inside corner to pry apart. Wood is weak in tension across the grain.
The plain half lap distributes the compressive forces more evenly. There is less twist exerted on the upper inside corner.
Flipping the dovetail edge to the top might make it more resistant to downward force. The occurrence up upward shock would be mighty rare.
Yes, the joint survived, even though there was a wood failure that would make it more susceptible to a second shock. But in a controlled test I suspect that the plain half lap would require much more force to fail regardless of orientation.
I was really glad to see this test!!
The dovetail’s real value in this case is in tension. It makes the joint stronger against that member being pulled axially out of the joint.
@@robertberger8642 That's the theory. The tests I have seen show something different. Back when glues weren't all that strong, dovetails provided a mechanical connection that resisted forces better than the glues did. But now with glues that are stronger than lignin, that connection and the cross-grain cuts it requires are no longer needed.
I think Mattias Wandel has a video on joint tension strength using a press machine he made.
Long time viewer, infrequent commenter here:
I love your channel! It inspires me to get out there and MAKE stuff. And you teach me how to do it, as well. Thank you, much love!
Most key joints in benches are mortise and tenon, single or double mortises depending on the width, thickness of the stock being used. These are used most often in joints between stretchers and legs and also vertically at joints between legs and upper stretchers. Aprons on table are sometimes dovetails which looks great, is strong. Half laps tho are a definite option between stretchers and legs.
Sacrificed my ADHD and watched the whole thing for the algorithm because I learned so much. Looking to start a biz and am happy to have found your channel.
Glad to see you doing better Rex. Thanks for your time and wisdom.
Rex, this is really a great instructional video. Keep up the excellent work sir.
Thanks I learned several things, including on how to use my marking tool etc.! It really helps to "see" your attitude, planning and example as you work.
It's a really one of the most useful videos for woodworkers. Expecially for beginners. Good job!
18:55 There’s an alternative to this, which I learned from watching a Japanese UA-camr.
It’s called kigoroshi, and the technique is to use repeated, careful mallet blows to actually compress the wood of the tenon (or equivalent) so that it will fit without being trimmed to the exact size right size. (It does have to be close, though.)
After compression, water or glue is applied and the joint is assembled. The water (or water from the glue) will then be absorbed by the compressed part, causing it to expand and lock the joint together.
I’m eager to try this myself, because it seems like it would make a *really* strong joint.
Combine this with undercutting the shoulders a wee bit and you could get the half lap to wedge itself into the slot as if it was dovetailed across its thickness as well.
hey cool channel. appreciate the hand tool usage, helps those of us with less expensive equipment and smaller workshop get some projects done 👍
If you become a patreon for $5 a month you get all his plans for free. Totally worth it for that alone!
"Thank you!", Mr. Krueger!
So good to know, & not so hard a monkey like me can't do it.
Or, as some say, "you can do it!"
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
Comes at a right time as I was wondering about the best joint for a frame for a screen.
This overlap fits the job, strong enough, less skill intensive.
I see that you also has your own way to saw. I think that praticing sawing is the key to find what suits someone.
After trying quite different techniques, I was able to feel that sawing from the sitting position with a japanese saw is the way for me. Just feels natural and more stable, even without a workbench.
Most important thing to remember : let the saw follows its track with gentle touch. Brute force is useless.
I also found that the blade of a japanese saw doesn't really follow its track once I take a break. So sawing in one go is key apparently.
Well, just pratice like you mentioned again.
Paul Sellers also recomends filing joinery saws rip. That always seemed awkward to me, until I started working with hardwoods. Small crosscut saws are onyl really useful for softwood I discovered.
With a fine tooth pitch I don't think crosscut does anything for you. Especially when you're doing the knife wall. But the saw being good and sharp is a plus. Good handsaws are not as common now as they once were. Your typical hardware store special today is pretty poor. If you want to do this hand tool woodworking thing you pretty much have to learn how to sharpen handsaws.
@@1pcfreddefinitely a worthwhile skill to master, one I hope to develop. Paul Sellars has at least one good video on this as I’m sure does Rex and others. I’m wondering what is the real distinction between really expensive saws and much less expensive ones. I’m guessing it’s the tooth details as well as the steel used etc.
@@victoryak86 yeah saws have different handles, different plates, the teeth are done differently. There's a lot of differences. What you like will probably be different than what someone else likes. Everyone's journey is going to be different. I know what I've gone through and I doubt what you go through will be the same. Finding the right saw can be a challenge. We're not living in the peak handsaw era. Right now I'm agonizing over what files to buy. That's gotten ridiculous. I don't want to buy the wrong ones. At the same time I'm not sure what the right ones are. I have an old Disston backsaw I need to touch up. I was lucky enough to find it. Now I want to do right by it. What files you use really makes or breaks the sharpening experience.
@@1pcfred thanks for sharing your thoughts. Really appreciated.
@@victoryak86 I wish I knew easy answers. I haven't found any myself yet though. The sad truth is that joinery saws are relatively rare tools. I looked for a long time. If you want to spend money you can get something. But if you like a deal they're few and far between. In my life I've only ever managed to run across one good joinery saw. Maybe I'm just not lucky? But when I did run across it I did buy it. I am now the proud owner of a very good condition 10" Disston backsaw. Before then I did go through the trouble of making myself a backsaw. A guy can't wait forever. That came out pretty good too. I downloaded a handle pattern off Blackburn tools. I'd picked up one of those cranked flush cutting saws made for trimming mouldings. I took the offset out of it, filed new teeth into it and fitted it into the handle I'd made. It's not bad. I enjoy using that because I made it too. So that's an option.
I don't know if I'll ever make joints like this by hand, but this was very well done. Step by little step. Everything clearly explained.
For #4, what you have is actually better in resisting downward force. You will effective the same cross section as if nothing was cut away since the dove tail shoulder is in compression with the wood. If you flip it, your cross section is smaller because you are relying on the glue to make up for the cross section. Wedging action is the same (mechanically) on both sides. It’s also important to note that the material removed to make the dove tail create a stress concentration at the 90° angle if you flip it. It’s less of an issue the way you had it because the shoulder is in compression.
As a former software engineer, what I've noticed in cutting that exact halflap for a trailer fence is that the muscle memory, strength, and the practice of using the saw is far different for us newblet schlubs than it is when a professional like Rex or Paul do the exact same thing, it's like watching the Olympics of wood cutting and then trying to match it. I know Rex has had his editor(?) do a cut before to show that even newbs can do it, and I also know Rex has shown stuff being done with a commodity saw as well, but in the end what I find makes my joints a bit better is not just doing a knife wall to start my saw cut, but also having a knife wall going down both sides of my cut helps keep the saw on track as well. Even then muscle tracking for me isn't as straight, nor is my chisel work, and when you're relying on 5 surfaces to all be accurate as in the non-dovetail halflap, then your opportunity for error quintuples.
All that being said, my trailer fences on my second set of them are holding up remarkably better than the first set I made... but the wood filler is definitely chipping out, and if I hadn't driven in two 1 3/4" screws I'm sure they'd have failed.
Used a lapped dovetail on a brace under the plywood top of my model railroad framing along with other joinery. It is/was my first project with joinery and I dedicated it to my joiner/builder/cratemaker ancestors and my father.
I'm mounting a motor to a cider press grinder via a worm gear speed reducer. The motor will be mounted 90° off-axis from the grinder. I made a 45° tongue and groove test miter, and couldn't break it. I can apply what I learned from this video to make the joinery more precise. Thank you!
I had this Video Pop Up on UA-cam and decided to watch it. I’m glad I did. I don’t do any Woodworking unless I just need to repair a Bench or something made out of Wood. I have been wanting to build a nice Workbench, some Shelving, Carts and other things. I just didn’t really Trust the sturdiness if it wasn’t done correctly. I Subscribed and plan on joining your Patreon Channel. I like how you take your Time to show how you make the Cuts, the marking of the Cuts, and Trimming to Fit. This was a very well put together Video, and I feel like following your advice on things that I will be able to do it. You really got my interest in Woodworking Peaked.👍👍
I used half laps when i built my bookbinding bench on your recommendation from the English bench video. I didnt even use glue, just screws, because i needed it to come apart for a move. Its really solid, no movement at all even with my iffy joinery and cheap lumber.
In practice, those rails are almost always going to be supported at both ends, as they are in your English workbench. Your dovetail joint could be held with a wedge, or perhaps even a dowel.
I've seen several of your videos but haven't for a few months. I don't know what it is but the whole production value and your presentation on this video is so much better. Keep it up.
I am building a pre-war timber framed car. Had no idea how before I started (and information on traditional coachbuilding is hard to find) so I thought I better learn some woodworking which is how I found your channel. Ended up all I needed was fairly simple half lap and spline joints. But these sort of 'simple' films are super useful for even basic woodwork. They've definitely helped me be a better minimal woodworker!
EngelsCoachShop here on UA-cam has a lot of valuable information on coach building and restorations if that help
@@AussieWoodshed Yes, he's definitely one I watch regularly.
What type of car? Do you have any pictures, and/or video? I’d love to watch your build.
@@robertberger8642 1930 Riley Brooklands. If you click my name you can find all the films.
It is impressive to see all this done just with hand tools.
Excellent tuition
Thanks Rex, you're a great instructor, offering tons of detailed explanations and encouragement in a judgement free style.
And here I am watching an entire video about joinery at 2AM
I used carriage bolts on the half lap joints of my workbench that lives in my unheated garage in northern Vermont. Each spring I tighten the nuts, and they are good for the season.
This is a wonderfully executed master class on the half lap joint!
I really hope you make this a series on different joints and their strengths and weaknesses. I very much enjoy your work and look forward to seeing your videos when they drop.
Excellent tutorial, very well explained.
You have a real gift for making these sorts of videos. Very clear and easy to understand and enjoyable to watch!
Half lap joints are great. Easy, simple and quick and perfect for when all the force is going to be against the shoulders and you don’t expect there to be any twisting. Like a shelf support.
I have done some simple diy deck and shed construction with some timber framing methods that used half laps to connect posts to beams. What I learned was that joints can become quite inaccurate if your lumber isn’t square. If you have twists or bows or if you have knots in your wood that result in inconsistent thickness in your lumber, using squares to mark layouts will not result in square cuts.
So when you need to cut any kind of lap joints - half lap or cross lap- or even if you want to mark and cut square,
You should at least check if your lumber dimensions are irregular. You probably don’t need to plane an entire piece, but sometimes it helps to plane or use other methods to prepare the dimensions and faces of your lumber around the cut areas so you can get properly fitting joints.
these videos are just getting better and better. I've learned so much. thank you
I find it funny you uploaded this now. I just watched the original bench video yesterday and am really considering building it! Would you be will to do a video where you analyze some joints and see which might be good or bad for a workbench? I built a bench using a castle joint just because I thought the joint looks cool but not sure if its a bad joint for a work bench.
I just built the joiners bench and I'm loving it. I still need to add the half lap crosses so this is perfect for me :) I made some modifications to the original design as well and just did it by watching the videos. I'm thinking for fun I should try doing the sunk half lap joint and adding it to the back beam as well. Though I was wondering about adding a shelf to the bench too. Fun stuff thanks Rex.
Practice is key. Now I'm still young and lack a true workshop setup which is sacrificing a lot of accuracy on my projects because of the lack of room, but that's why I do little projects to help improve my skills. I got knowledge all across the trades, but that experience makes all the difference and doing little projects still improves your skills
I built my first workbench a year ago, a kind of hybrid design that is mostly a Nicholson bench. I did half-lap joints for most of the joinery (the full version, with the interlocking components) and I made every mistake a monkey could make. For instance, the trick of making the joint deliberately too tight and then planing the intersecting surface did not occur to me, obvious though it may be, so instead I made the joints too tight and then tried to trim down the shoulder a micron at a time (by cross-cutting on my table saw). Of course I overdid it once or twice and had to re-cut a piece. Also, I didn't have a router plane (still don't), so getting the cheeks perfectly flat was pretty much impossible; I had to settle for 'flat enough.' Doing through-tenons for the stretchers seemed too ambitious, so I did the poor-workman's version: cut half-laps in each half of a leg, creating a rectangular tenon when I glued the halves together. The resulting bench definitely looks amateurish when I compare it to a lot of the workbench porn here on UA-cam, but I'm still very happy with it. It is absolutely rock-solid, I cannot rock it or twist it in any direction by any perceptible amount at all. Oh, and I checked out an old workbench at the North Haven (Maine) historical society museum, the bench was used for 80 years to build wooden boats Back In The Day...and it was beat all to hell by the end of its days but was still doing its job long after the man who built it was dead and gone, so who cares if mine doesn't look great? I mention all of this because: (1) Thank you, Rex, for saying in an earlier video that if you need a workbench just go ahead and get started, don't keep dithering about what kind and don't worry about making it perfect because I don't have the skills yet to make it perfect. All of that was great advice. (You also said to expect to build another one someday when you have better skills, but I don't think I'll have to. I think this bench will last the rest of my life, and that whoever ends up with it after me will be able to use it for several more decades, if they don't mind how it looks). Also (2) anyone else who has read this far: you can do it. You don't have to just use hand tools like Rex does, use whatever works. But think it through. You know that thing about 'measure twice, cut once'? Terrible advice. 'Think three times, measure twice, sneak up on the cut', that's my version. Thinking is the key. Most of my mistakes were not physical ones, they were conceptual...including boneheaded things like cutting the wrong face of a workpiece. (3) As long as I'm giving advice, here's one more for newbies like me: don't be in a hurry. If you only have fifteen minutes and you want to make some progress, sharpen a chisel or lay out something but don't actually make the cut. At my level and probably yours, you need more time than you think to even do simple stuff.
Yup. You are a natural teacher/instructor
For a work bench, just add a couple of screws and everything else is just aesthetics. Half lap is my favorite joint. When it comes to a combination of strength, speed, ease of use and the flush look, I don't think anything else beats it.
Nothing at all wrong with half lap joints. Especially the full (2 sided) half laps as shown. And the perfect companion for half laps or even full tenons is a large'ish sole router plane. After I made and used my first router plane I wondered why I had not gotten one a couple of decades earlier. Just SOO much easier and accurate. Anyway, a great video on a basic but totally useable joint
Hadn’t seen the half dovetail. Interesting that the direction makes a difference.
+1! I’ve never considered the direction either.
Anyone else have a HOLY SHIT moment when he trimmed the tenon instead of paring the side of the cut? I did! Genius.
You are clearly a student of Paul Sellers, using many of his tools and techniques and phrases like 'knife wall'. He would be proud of your flattery.
You mentioned adding two screws and you re correct, while I’m sitting here thinking three dowels all the way through are aesthetically appealing and likely stronger yet. Cheers.
I use the dovetailed half lap all the time it holds good I just use 2 to 3 dowls and glue to finish it off to add to the appeal 👍 I allso bevle bolth sides and bevle them a little less thanks again
Rex does us all a great service. Your videos are much appreciated Rex thanks
Damn that's clean. I am currently struggling with even cutting straight, so I'm working on that now and hoping I can get to your level one day
Sawing is one of those things. Part of it is you and part of it is the saw itself. Some saws are definitely better than others are. If you're game you may even be able to improve the performance of some saws too. But sharpening saws is not always a simple thing itself. I still can't get the hang of fine tooth crosscuts. At a certain pitch I don't think it even matters. A sharp fine rip is going to cut good too. When you touch the teeth of a saw with your fingertips it should feel like needles.
I really liked seeing the tests at the end. Sometimes I'll see people put weight on joints to come up with a number, but it's really good to see you just pound on them. I don't care about the number. I can get a better sense from your tests how strong those joints are.
I made Rex's English Joiner's bench years ago and it's still one of my favorite things on Earth. Get the plans, build the bench.
Thank you!
I absolutely love these type of videos. Right in my wheelhouse great job Mr Rex
As you stated the strength test is not scientific but it is a great demonstration of joint construction. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
When you said a monkey can do it and I couldn't, I took it was, this is approachable to learn. 🎉 I used some fasteners with the full overlap because I don't have a soul but it works well for garage stuff.