Yall think I should sell this one? . . Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/XIpofcfr8zQ/v-deo.html Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/K1vaZE3RgbY/v-deo.html Part 3: ua-cam.com/video/l28CvMMbA9o/v-deo.html
I think you should sell it, Red. That blade is just too nice to be relegated to box cutting. It deserves to ride on the hip of a sportsman and become a cherished family heirloom. You are your own worst critic - that knife should make you and your customer proud! Keep up the great work and videos!
I think it’s a beautiful knife and anyone would be lucky to be able to buy it. I appreciate the way you continue to push your skills to the next level. I always learn a little bit more from you on each video. Thanks!
It turned out great! You learn from every build right? One thing, thread your pommel nut while it’s still in the lathe. Just Chuck your tap in your Jacob’s Chuck. 👍
Thanks Tyrell, I sure do learn! Sometimes the same things twice! LOL -- On the pommel nut; I've had issues threading on the lathe. I don't have a really good way to lock the chuck other than relying on the back gears, and the spring holder method with pressure coming from the jacob's chuck has been hit or miss. Are you saying to power tap with the tail stock free?
@@RedBeardOps I don’t power tap, it’s too dicey and easy to break a tap, specially the smaller ones. I put the tap in the chuck and move the lathe chuck by hand or put the key in it to pull it back and forth as you tap. That way it keep the tap perfectly aligned with the hole.
Man that knife came out gorgeous!! The blade finish is beautiful and that handle it perfect! I think would gloves on, the handle size is perfect. Great narrating per usual!
Next time you should try sanding you handle up to 1000+ grit and finishing with tru oil instead of buffing. Especially if you want crisp transition lines. I find that buffing changes the surface of the wood way more than if you were to do this. I'm still playing with the tru oil method myself, but, I do like the results I've gotten so far. I really need to start making and sharing videos of my progress as a bladesmith. Thanks for this series!
For the handle guard transition. Radius the edge of an 8" contact wheel and use the radiused edge of the wheel to set the radius. Scribe layout lines on both sides of the guard and then hold the knife horizontally and roll the knife to get an even radius up to both scribe lines. It takes a couple minutes and they you are on to hand sanding.
Great video James. I think I got more out of your critique than anything else. That is something all makers should really spend time doing and even documenting as it leads to growth and improvement. I think this turned our very nice.
It turned out great overall! The handle is a little chunky as you pointed out, but not overly so, perfect for someone with large hands. My only real critique would be the finish of the blade. I would like to have seen you take it up to a higher grit finish to match the guard and pommel nut. Might just be a trick of the light and the camera though. ;)
Hello RBO (James?), as usual, you put together a really nice tutorial and it ended up with a really nice knife. You most definitely have a lot of knowledge and know-how; your boss and co-workers must appreciate you quite a lot. Moreover, pointing out your "mistakes" and things you think you could have done better, clearly shows how humble you are; I respect you a lot. Thanks a lot for sharing all that knowledge and know-how through your videos. Have a nice day! Sebastien
I have an old Rigid bench chain vise when I have to fix my scratch patterns on a knife with a handle. Just wrap the handle in leather and cinch it down in the vise. You can pick up the vises cheap at garage and estate sales. Just keep your fingers above your sanding stick or else...
I really appreciate you responding to your comments. I have to ask how you find the time to make knives. Between three kids and a full-time job I put out one knife month if I’m lucky. If you don’t mind me asking do you have a full-time job, and/or family? Or is knife making now your full-time job?
Thanks Paul. I have a full time job and one kid under 2 years old. It comes down to caffeine, not much sleep, and an understanding wife! One day I'd love to do this full time.
J- you're being way too critical, it's a great looking piece. Saw you at breakfast at the 23 atlanta show. With your videos, now I know what a great talent you are. 11:39
I don't see the issues you see in the knife as flaws... yeah, the handle is a little thick at the top, but I have big hands so I usually don't notice. As far as I'm concerned it's a pretty good general use field knife... it has a fine enough edge for skinning and butchering out game, but robust enough to do light to medium wood processing because of the materials used and the edge geometry. All in All... I'll give it a 9.5 out of ten :)
7:24 don't you hate when that kind of thing happens? I've been working on a honyaki bunka, that I've been trying to give a mirror polish to give the hamon a traditional sort of look for a japanese kitchen knife, and I've had to start over a couple times now, because it will get scratched from setting it down, or working on it. Btw if you have any advice for a mirror polish, without driving myself insane doing it. I would love some advice. I have some buffing wheels, compounds, sandpaper (I'm thinking i need to find an alternative to 3m once i get to the 1000 grit range, because their wetordry seems to slow down significantly at 1000) and other stuff. It would really be appreciated Btw, the spalted pecan does look really nice.
Yeah, wasn't happy! LOL I really haven't ever done a mirror polish on a blade, so I'm the wrong guy for advice there. That pecan came from Pop's! Good stuff. Cheers
@@RedBeardOps if you value your sanity keep it that way. It's so tedious and time consuming to polish hardened steel. At this rate idk if I'll ever finish. Anyway great video like always. And great knife! I need to check out pops knife supply, I always use trugrit, and alpha. I heard good things. Plus they're about to have larrins new steel there , (looks very promising) I think it's on preorder.
@@_BLANK_BLANK Try diamond polishing paste and a small buffing wheel on a slow drill or similar if all you're wanting is a mirror finish (grits go to something insane like 60,000, so you'll have no problem finding what you need). Just keep in mind that buffing the actual hamon will kill it and you'll lose all definition, I made that dumb mistake not once but three times before I figured out what was going on. Powered methods and hamons don't get along for some reason. Loose abrasive (rock tumbling grit works well) and oil on a cotton pad is a more traditional way to polish up the blade and still keep a frosty hamon like you're wanting. Etch lightly, then remove the oxides with a metal polish or OOOO steel wool, then loose abrasive, repeating maybe 4-12 times or so. You can switch from dilute ferric chloride for the first time to a vinegar or lemon juice etch afterward, and alternating those two can give better definition to the crystalline structure you're trying to bring out. Each time you go through that cycle, the hamon will appear just a little bit better defined, and some features might become visible that you didn't even know were there, but don't go overboard with it. You can't bring out something in the steel that was never there, and you can eventually etch too deep and cause a valley to form. Sandpaper has a tendency to smear and destroy the crystalline structure that gives it a cloudy look once you get up to grits high enough for mirror polish, so avoid paper if possible. I think it has to do with the loose grit filling in the voids of the etching and protecting it from further abrasion, but I have no way to know. Some have had good success by painting an acid resist (fingernail polish usually) on parts of the knife that they don't want etched, leaving you with only the hamon and surrounding areas to clean up. To truly get that traditional look requires a LOT of effort and dedication, that's why a Japanese swordsmith apprenticeship lasts five years and a sword polishing apprenticeship is ten years. One method I want to test soon is using diamond paste and square stock to drag the polish flat over the blade (there's a youtuber that does this with his blades rather than hand sanding, but I don't remember who). My theory is that it won't smear the crystalline structure like sandpaper or buff it out of existence, rather it may behave more like loose abrasives do. Diamond paste is WAY faster than rock tumbling grit, and it would save a lot of time if it works the same. Good luck on your honyaki!
@@Skinflaps_Meatslapper I'm wanting to go up to a mirror, then worry about bringing the definition of it out later, either using fingerstones, or some other form of loose abrasive like you described. What I want is a mirror finish on the hagane, and a shiny kasumi on the jigane, then whatever detail I can squeeze from the hamon.
@@Skinflaps_Meatslapper I've seen most of the detail the hamon I put in it can offer during various steps in the polishing, and etching process I've been through already, and I don't mean to toot my own horn, but it actually has a lot of nice wispy detail in it. At this point I'm just trying to get it to a mirror finish, and worry about any detail after. I could get a decent finish, with good detail, and do more of a darker western style etched look, but I really want a look more like what they have on the higher end honyakis.
ah she's beautiful from my point of view! I think you're a bit hard on yourself but that's what pushes people into greatness so I guess it's not all bad. :)
Love the series learned tons. I would love to see a video on how you go about designing your knives. Do u use a computer or just paper pen and ruler. Thanks I always learn tons.
Thanks Ben, I think I'll do mini-series like this in the future for more complex builds. On the full tang knives, i do a lot of design in CAD (nanoCAD)... I've been enjoying the process of drawing out on paper my hidden tang knives. I think this will be the way I do most of it. If you want to download any of my templates (including this one) and use them, I have most of them up on Pateron... I think you can get them for like 1-2$ (total for all of them) - www.patreon.com/posts/68514990
@@RedBeardOps thxs man Ill have to do that another thing is I’m building my first knife and I’m having problems grinding the angels on the pre treat bevels how steep do I want those and should I build a guide or free hand it thanks
Great series of vids, thanks for sharing the ins and outs, end result looks great IMO. I really like the contrast from your handle material with it colour and textures. I would consider selling it if I was you, but depends on you :)
Overall a really nice knife, i gues we all have to be self critical to as high a level as we can other wise we won't improve. I've made knives for friends who can't see a single problem with them but I can, anyway nice knife, thanks
Hey man, I'm stoked that you're enjoying the videos enough to want to support the channel! Don't feel obligated to do either of these... just watching and liking the videos is amazing. If you want to contribue more you can a.) click on my amazon affiliate links in the descriptions of my videos before buying stuff on amazon. b.) you can become a patron on pateron - www.patreon.com/RedBeardOps --- I also plan on selling some knives on my new website soon... but haven't gone public with it yet. -- redbeardops.square.site/ Cheers sir!
Hey Owen, I would if I stopped making mistakes! lol... I've sold a lot of full tang knives, since I was comfortable with my process and fit and finish on them. These hidden / through tang knives are more complex. This one was on the edge... I think I could be convinced to sell it.
Ok, The knife is a total waste, the blade is too long. the finish is chinkey. the bolster is clunkey. the handle is botchie. should i go on.LOLOL i don't think the knife is that bad for a knife. it's not prefect , no knife is. don't make any difference who makes them.in your eyes you made mistakes. in someone's else's eyes they don't see your mistakes the way you do. i have done welding and looked at the bead. that looks like sh++, but it will hold. at least you point out things when you make a knife that you think are a mistake or could have done differently. all that said. it is a knife a tool to be used. unless you stick em on the wall and look at them. keep on making knives. stay safe.
Yall think I should sell this one?
.
.
Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/XIpofcfr8zQ/v-deo.html
Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/K1vaZE3RgbY/v-deo.html
Part 3: ua-cam.com/video/l28CvMMbA9o/v-deo.html
For sure sell it. I think people would be happy with it. Especially someone with big hands that like a bulkier design on the handle.
you should sell it. it is a sellable knife. anyone who watched you build this knife knows what they are getting when they buy it.
Yes, it is very sellable.
Yes to me.
@@JesusLopez-fc7bd Thank you sir. It's already sold. Cheers!
I think you should sell it, Red. That blade is just too nice to be relegated to box cutting. It deserves to ride on the hip of a sportsman and become a cherished family heirloom. You are your own worst critic - that knife should make you and your customer proud! Keep up the great work and videos!
Thank you greatly John! I'm getting convinced to potentially sell this guy. Have a great 4th of July!
I think it’s a beautiful knife and anyone would be lucky to be able to buy it. I appreciate the way you continue to push your skills to the next level. I always learn a little bit more from you on each video. Thanks!
Thank you Paul! Much appreciated
It turned out great! You learn from every build right? One thing, thread your pommel nut while it’s still in the lathe. Just Chuck your tap in your Jacob’s Chuck. 👍
Thanks Tyrell, I sure do learn! Sometimes the same things twice! LOL -- On the pommel nut; I've had issues threading on the lathe. I don't have a really good way to lock the chuck other than relying on the back gears, and the spring holder method with pressure coming from the jacob's chuck has been hit or miss. Are you saying to power tap with the tail stock free?
It's actually illegal to tap on a lathe unless you power it up on the highest speed setting first.
@@RedBeardOps I don’t power tap, it’s too dicey and easy to break a tap, specially the smaller ones. I put the tap in the chuck and move the lathe chuck by hand or put the key in it to pull it back and forth as you tap. That way it keep the tap perfectly aligned with the hole.
Nice build. Your "failures" are far better than other attempts at product.
Thanks Johann
Really nice!!! That handle size and shape would actually be ideal for me. With a good sheath, I would love that for an EDC!
Knife looks great from here. Thanks for the series.
Thanks Stephen!
I think it came out great and really love the "bulky" wooden handle 🤩
With a knife like that in my backpack i'd be one happy camper!
Thanks Mister Weasel!
That's amazing, that's a gougerous product, love it😀
Man that knife came out gorgeous!! The blade finish is beautiful and that handle it perfect! I think would gloves on, the handle size is perfect. Great narrating per usual!
Thank you greatly Peshy! Glad you enjoyed the build.
Next time you should try sanding you handle up to 1000+ grit and finishing with tru oil instead of buffing. Especially if you want crisp transition lines. I find that buffing changes the surface of the wood way more than if you were to do this. I'm still playing with the tru oil method myself, but, I do like the results I've gotten so far. I really need to start making and sharing videos of my progress as a bladesmith. Thanks for this series!
Good tip!
For the handle guard transition. Radius the edge of an 8" contact wheel and use the radiused edge of the wheel to set the radius. Scribe layout lines on both sides of the guard and then hold the knife horizontally and roll the knife to get an even radius up to both scribe lines. It takes a couple minutes and they you are on to hand sanding.
Good tip as well!
THANK YOU FOR SHARING THE LINE UP PIN PROCESS. I have been trying to find a video on specifically that, for a while now. You're a Saint!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video James. I think I got more out of your critique than anything else. That is something all makers should really spend time doing and even documenting as it leads to growth and improvement. I think this turned our very nice.
Thank you greatly Robert!
Love that spalted Pecan.
Man it is nice! Came from Pop's
Always top notch videos and very instructive thankyou !
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks!
i love that handle man
Thanks Chef!
It turned out great overall! The handle is a little chunky as you pointed out, but not overly so, perfect for someone with large hands. My only real critique would be the finish of the blade. I would like to have seen you take it up to a higher grit finish to match the guard and pommel nut. Might just be a trick of the light and the camera though. ;)
Thanks Brandon!
Came out looking good
Thanks!
Hello RBO (James?),
as usual, you put together a really nice tutorial and it ended up with a really nice knife.
You most definitely have a lot of knowledge and know-how; your boss and co-workers must appreciate you quite a lot.
Moreover, pointing out your "mistakes" and things you think you could have done better, clearly shows how humble you are; I respect you a lot.
Thanks a lot for sharing all that knowledge and know-how through your videos.
Have a nice day!
Sebastien
Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed the build and other videos!
I have an old Rigid bench chain vise when I have to fix my scratch patterns on a knife with a handle. Just wrap the handle in leather and cinch it down in the vise. You can pick up the vises cheap at garage and estate sales. Just keep your fingers above your sanding stick or else...
Thanks for the tip!
That is a great looking knife, good job!!
Thanks Greg!
Really nice build quality
I'm glad you like it!
Nice result. 👏👏❤️
Thanks Clenio!
I really appreciate you responding to your comments. I have to ask how you find the time to make knives. Between three kids and a full-time job I put out one knife month if I’m lucky. If you don’t mind me asking do you have a full-time job, and/or family? Or is knife making now your full-time job?
Thanks Paul. I have a full time job and one kid under 2 years old. It comes down to caffeine, not much sleep, and an understanding wife! One day I'd love to do this full time.
Great job!!! What head milling/ planish wood please??
Thank you!
Face Mill - amzn.to/3uSqeII
James- you're too critical...but I do the same thing. You did a great job and anybody would be proud to have it on their belt! 11:39
Thank you sir! Much appreicated
J- you're being way too critical, it's a great looking piece. Saw you at breakfast at the 23 atlanta show. With your videos, now I know what a great talent you are. 11:39
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed this one. Cheers man
Thank you for sharing these
Glad you like them!
Love it, sell it and get into the next one
Thanks Chris
I don't see the issues you see in the knife as flaws... yeah, the handle is a little thick at the top, but I have big hands so I usually don't notice. As far as I'm concerned it's a pretty good general use field knife... it has a fine enough edge for skinning and butchering out game, but robust enough to do light to medium wood processing because of the materials used and the edge geometry.
All in All... I'll give it a 9.5 out of ten :)
Thank you greatly sir! Have a great weekend!
Quite Welcome, and you have a good Weekend also :)
Great job
Great series
Thank you greatly James!
7:24 don't you hate when that kind of thing happens?
I've been working on a honyaki bunka, that I've been trying to give a mirror polish to give the hamon a traditional sort of look for a japanese kitchen knife, and I've had to start over a couple times now, because it will get scratched from setting it down, or working on it.
Btw if you have any advice for a mirror polish, without driving myself insane doing it. I would love some advice. I have some buffing wheels, compounds, sandpaper (I'm thinking i need to find an alternative to 3m once i get to the 1000 grit range, because their wetordry seems to slow down significantly at 1000) and other stuff. It would really be appreciated
Btw, the spalted pecan does look really nice.
Yeah, wasn't happy! LOL
I really haven't ever done a mirror polish on a blade, so I'm the wrong guy for advice there.
That pecan came from Pop's! Good stuff.
Cheers
@@RedBeardOps if you value your sanity keep it that way. It's so tedious and time consuming to polish hardened steel. At this rate idk if I'll ever finish.
Anyway great video like always. And great knife! I need to check out pops knife supply, I always use trugrit, and alpha. I heard good things. Plus they're about to have larrins new steel there , (looks very promising) I think it's on preorder.
@@_BLANK_BLANK Try diamond polishing paste and a small buffing wheel on a slow drill or similar if all you're wanting is a mirror finish (grits go to something insane like 60,000, so you'll have no problem finding what you need). Just keep in mind that buffing the actual hamon will kill it and you'll lose all definition, I made that dumb mistake not once but three times before I figured out what was going on. Powered methods and hamons don't get along for some reason. Loose abrasive (rock tumbling grit works well) and oil on a cotton pad is a more traditional way to polish up the blade and still keep a frosty hamon like you're wanting. Etch lightly, then remove the oxides with a metal polish or OOOO steel wool, then loose abrasive, repeating maybe 4-12 times or so. You can switch from dilute ferric chloride for the first time to a vinegar or lemon juice etch afterward, and alternating those two can give better definition to the crystalline structure you're trying to bring out. Each time you go through that cycle, the hamon will appear just a little bit better defined, and some features might become visible that you didn't even know were there, but don't go overboard with it. You can't bring out something in the steel that was never there, and you can eventually etch too deep and cause a valley to form. Sandpaper has a tendency to smear and destroy the crystalline structure that gives it a cloudy look once you get up to grits high enough for mirror polish, so avoid paper if possible. I think it has to do with the loose grit filling in the voids of the etching and protecting it from further abrasion, but I have no way to know. Some have had good success by painting an acid resist (fingernail polish usually) on parts of the knife that they don't want etched, leaving you with only the hamon and surrounding areas to clean up. To truly get that traditional look requires a LOT of effort and dedication, that's why a Japanese swordsmith apprenticeship lasts five years and a sword polishing apprenticeship is ten years. One method I want to test soon is using diamond paste and square stock to drag the polish flat over the blade (there's a youtuber that does this with his blades rather than hand sanding, but I don't remember who). My theory is that it won't smear the crystalline structure like sandpaper or buff it out of existence, rather it may behave more like loose abrasives do. Diamond paste is WAY faster than rock tumbling grit, and it would save a lot of time if it works the same. Good luck on your honyaki!
@@Skinflaps_Meatslapper I'm wanting to go up to a mirror, then worry about bringing the definition of it out later, either using fingerstones, or some other form of loose abrasive like you described. What I want is a mirror finish on the hagane, and a shiny kasumi on the jigane, then whatever detail I can squeeze from the hamon.
@@Skinflaps_Meatslapper I've seen most of the detail the hamon I put in it can offer during various steps in the polishing, and etching process I've been through already, and I don't mean to toot my own horn, but it actually has a lot of nice wispy detail in it. At this point I'm just trying to get it to a mirror finish, and worry about any detail after.
I could get a decent finish, with good detail, and do more of a darker western style etched look, but I really want a look more like what they have on the higher end honyakis.
ah she's beautiful from my point of view! I think you're a bit hard on yourself but that's what pushes people into greatness so I guess it's not all bad. :)
Thanks Richard! I do like this guy. Gotta be a critic to get better!
That’s a wonderful hunting knife…
Thanks!
It's beautiful!
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice knife brother
Thanks Rick!
Love the series learned tons. I would love to see a video on how you go about designing your knives. Do u use a computer or just paper pen and ruler. Thanks I always learn tons.
Thanks Ben, I think I'll do mini-series like this in the future for more complex builds. On the full tang knives, i do a lot of design in CAD (nanoCAD)... I've been enjoying the process of drawing out on paper my hidden tang knives. I think this will be the way I do most of it.
If you want to download any of my templates (including this one) and use them, I have most of them up on Pateron... I think you can get them for like 1-2$ (total for all of them) - www.patreon.com/posts/68514990
@@RedBeardOps thxs man Ill have to do that another thing is I’m building my first knife and I’m having problems grinding the angels on the pre treat bevels how steep do I want those and should I build a guide or free hand it thanks
@@benolesen7165 Awesome man, good luck with your build. This video may help on the grinding - ua-cam.com/video/UHOn7X3z9lA/v-deo.html
Great series of vids, thanks for sharing the ins and outs, end result looks great IMO. I really like the contrast from your handle material with it colour and textures. I would consider selling it if I was you, but depends on you :)
Thanks man. I'm slightly on the fence, but I think I'm getting convinced to part with it. Have a great weekend!
Really cool!
Thanks Del!
GOOD job👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice job..!
Thank you! Cheers!
Wow 👌 amazing job
Thank you! Cheers!
Overall a really nice knife, i gues we all have to be self critical to as high a level as we can other wise we won't improve. I've made knives for friends who can't see a single problem with them but I can, anyway nice knife, thanks
Thanks man! I'm getting there... Just a few more tweaks and I'll be happier with them. I guess that's what it takes when learning new things! Cheers
Perfect!!!
Thank you!
No, how would I be able to order one of your hunting knives?
H
Sorry Lonnie, I'm not taking custom orders
Do you make knives full time or are you an engineer full time
Part time knife making
I'm not one for a hidden tang, but that's a beautiful tool.
Glad you liked it David!
Is there any way to support your channel?
Hey man, I'm stoked that you're enjoying the videos enough to want to support the channel! Don't feel obligated to do either of these... just watching and liking the videos is amazing. If you want to contribue more you can a.) click on my amazon affiliate links in the descriptions of my videos before buying stuff on amazon. b.) you can become a patron on pateron - www.patreon.com/RedBeardOps
---
I also plan on selling some knives on my new website soon... but haven't gone public with it yet. -- redbeardops.square.site/
Cheers sir!
Do you sell any of your knives?
Hey Owen, I would if I stopped making mistakes! lol... I've sold a lot of full tang knives, since I was comfortable with my process and fit and finish on them. These hidden / through tang knives are more complex. This one was on the edge... I think I could be convinced to sell it.
Very nice
Thanks!
que buen trabajo me encantaria tenerlo jaaaa congratulations
¡Gracias!
I heard that if you have a beard there's no need to add hardener to the epoxy....
💪🏻
Shhhhh, don't give away the secrets man! ;)
Super 👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I buy that one
Cheers sir!
haha using that knife to open Amazon boxes is like using a nuclear warhead to kill a fly
LOL, good point
You are too hard on yourself. Small imperfections are normal in anything hand-made. It's what makes every hand-made piece unique.
Thanks Eddie!
You can do better
I will try
Ok, The knife is a total waste, the blade is too long. the finish is chinkey. the bolster is clunkey. the handle is botchie. should i go on.LOLOL i don't think the knife is that bad for a knife. it's not prefect , no knife is. don't make any difference who makes them.in your eyes you made mistakes. in someone's else's eyes they don't see your mistakes the way you do. i have done welding and looked at the bead. that looks like sh++, but it will hold. at least you point out things when you make a knife that you think are a mistake or could have done differently. all that said. it is a knife a tool to be used. unless you stick em on the wall and look at them. keep on making knives. stay safe.
Thanks for your thoughts, Will. I'm moving in the right direction I think!