A tip i have to add, pop the fuel cap to equalise pressure. I dont know if that was the reason i had an issue. Thank you so much for the video. I watched it and changed the fuel filter safely relatively speaking. Problem i had is the fuel tank itself was pressurised from a hot day when i filled it perhaps. Because the whole time i was changing the filter it was pissing into my oil pan and down my arms as i tried to pull the caps off the new filter and take the other pipe off the old filter which took 2 hands for me and i didnt use my ramps so was hard, if i didnt have a finger on the hose id lose more then the 1/10th of a tank i lost of premium fuel.
Sir ty for the video. I'm about to change out my fuel filter tomorrow and all i had was a pdf that was too complicated for me lol. Thank you again and i'll watch for you video's.
GordanFreeman420 No problem, Gordon! And I understand....if a picture is worth 1,000 words, then in my opinion, a video is worth 1,000,000. I find it so much easier to tackle something new if I've actually seen it done before, rather than simply read about it in a poorly-translated set of paper instructions. Good luck with your fuel filter replacement! Thanks for watching, and stay tuned....I just purchased a cheap 2002 Trooper that I will be doing some maintenance on. It has basically the same engine, and I plan to document the repairs/maintenance tasks I do, so those videos should be helpful to Rodeo/Passport owners, too.
Thanks for the great video! It was a bear getting the fuel lines off on my wife's 1999 Rodeo, but your tip on the grease made putting the new ones on quite easy. Oh and I too observed the same rattle in my old filter. I appreciated your video on replacing the Rodeo's shocks as well!
I changed the oil in my 2001 Isuzu Rodeo and now it won’t start. Cranks but won’t start so I’m thinking possibly a bad fuel filter. I noticed there’s no mention of the new fuel filter number or make so maybe it’s a one size fits all 2001 Isuzu Rodeos. Excellent video.
You take really good care of your trooper! It's in great shape with an amazingly clean engine and compartment! I have a 91 2.8 I'm cleaning up now. My so doesn't know it yet but it's for him.
Thanks! I try to keep it as clean as possible. It's actually not that hard though, because it's always been a street queen and has never been off-roaded. Kind of sad, really, given that what these trucks are capable of, but this is my wife's daily driver for the foreseeable future, so I try to keep it nice and clean. It could use a paint job, but other than that, it's pretty clean. That is totally awesome about the 91 for your son! Is he helping you fix it up?
@mattpayne4087 I just did this and after one drive it leaks, and then i readjust the clamps and it fixes it only temporarily again, any tips to keep it from leaking? Where about should those clamps be?
I just bought a 2002 Passport EX and your video is so helpful since I was able to change my filter. Great! Now, I need to find out we what's causing P0446 code. I Checked purge solenoid valve and it is working when I applied 12volt. Only thing I can see is that the EGR valve has a leak between the round housing and the 3 bolts attaching to the metal plate; no leaks whatsoever between that plate and manifold with the two bolts. Driving me crazy.....
Filter should not rattle even if it is clogged. Would try a Napa filter. If it continues being an issue perhaps cleaning and sealing the tank will solve the problem. Had a 1969 Chevy truck with that issue. Solved the problem permanently.
Wario Florez I have not lifted mine, though if it ever ceases to be my wife's daily driver, I probably will. It's pretty easy, though. You can purchase aftermarket springs or spacers for the rear, or you can actually swap in Jeep Cherokee springs and get about 1.5-2" of lift I believe. The front suspension uses torsion bars instead of springs, so you can simply crank the torsion bars to raise the front of the vehicle. Here is some good information: forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=75761&hilit=lift forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=82490&p=730559&hilit=+torsion+bars+#p730559 It is really extremely affordable to get a couple inches of suspension lift on Isuzu vehicles. You can probably purchase the Cherokee springs for cheap, and the torsion bar crank is free. Granted, you can spend a lot more if you decide to purchase aftermarket springs specific to the Rodeo, and you can also get aftermarket heavy duty torsion bars. Check out Independent4x4 for their Isuzu suspension parts if you want to go big: www.independent4x.com/Isuzu-Store_c_8.html
Hey man you are a great help really I appreciate you thanks ..... actually this is my wife's too I have an impala2004 and I have that one fixed I actually wax that and the Isuzu like around 2 times a week lol but since my wife saw the interest that I have on the Isuzu she's like go on baby fix it up lol but I went on fixing the Isuzu from the engine to the shocks and all around lol now j want to lift it and put bigger tires too
Wario Florez That's awesome! My wife isn't the type to appreciate a good lift, so I probably won't lift my Rodeo while it's her vehicle. But, when it comes time to get her something new, I'll probably keep the Rodeo and maybe lift it and put on some slightly larger tires. And no problem, I'm happy to help. I'm always glad to hear when other people like their Isuzu as much as I do. I think they are really cool vehicles that are mostly underappreciated. With a little TLC, they can be reliable. Good work on keeping your wife's ride in top shape!
Does the rubber line after the filter go all the way to the fuel rail? My hose is leaking just before the fuel rail and I have cut it once before for the same problem. Do you know what size of line I need?
Man you do some really thorough videos. Excellent job. I’m trying to figure out why mine is throwing p0446. I am thinking fuel tank pressure sensor? Have you had a run in with this trouble code yet?
What's the ticking noise at idle? I keep reading about it being associated with 1 or 2 common issues, either a bad timing belt tensioner or bad valve lifters and the 2000 LS I just bought sounds exactly like yours in this vid. I checked my timing belt and it definitely doesn't seem loose. It's driving me nuts because I've seen 3 Rodeos and a Passport ride by and they are so quiet LOL...Thanks in advance and I appreciate all of the other vids you've got up because they'll be a big help down the road.
When I started the engine at the end of this video, it never really warmed up and reached true "idle" speed, which should be around 800 RPM I believe. So, you were hearing the engine revved up a little bit. However, you are correct that many Isuzu engines "tick" a little bit. When my Rodeo reaches idle, it is very quiet, but does produce a ticking sound. It almost sounds like a diesel engine. I'm not exactly sure what the cause of this is, but I suspect it is probably a product of valve lash being out of adjustment, since this engine uses dual overhead cams with shims. Every cylinder has two intake valves and two exhaust valves, so there are a fair amount of contact surfaces. My assumption is that the cam lobes contacting the valve shims is what causes most of the ticking noise so common with Isuzu engines. However, that is just my opinion, so I may be totally wrong! I'm glad you have found my videos helpful! I'm always very glad to hear that someone has found something on my channel useful.
Ace Liu, do you still need such video? Matt has a video teaching on how to clean the Mass Air Flow sensor, and to replace the air filter, all you have to do is open the air box. You can see and learn how to do it in his video here: ua-cam.com/video/ANlI64WNOy4/v-deo.html
Matt, Great video and quick question. Would a bad filter cause the vehicle to act like its out of gas when it actually has about 1/2 a tank? I changed the fuel pump months ago. I have a 1999 rodeo.
+honiballist That is definitely possible. A completely blocked fuel filter could prevent enough fuel from reaching the injectors and prevent the engine from running properly. The easiest way to check would be to check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. You can pick up an inexpensive fuel pressure gauge from Harbor Freight Tools: www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html You can connect the gauge at the Schrader valve on the driver's side of the fuel rail - it should look like the valve on a bicycle tire. I keep meaning to create a brief video about this process, but it's fairly self-explanatory. I usually relieve the pressure in the fuel rail by starting the engine and then pulling the fuel pump fuse (like in this video), and then remove the cap on the Schrader valve and connect the pressure gauge hose. Then re-insert the fuel pump fuse, and then turn the ignition to "On" and get out and check the gauge. If I remember correctly, the pressure should be about 36-40 psi with ignition on/engine off. If that checks out, you can start the engine and then check pressure again. I believe this pressure should be 34-38 psi or thereabouts...my memory is a little foggy on this. If you get any wildly low readings, you know there is an issue somewhere in the fuel delivery system, and the best place to start would be with a fresh filter, since it's cheap and relatively easy to replace. Good luck!
Good question! I started to make such a video, but ended up stopping when I realized the transmission on my 2001 Trooper was bad, haha. Perhaps one day I will get around to doing this on my Rodeo and can film it.
sypher0101 I believe pulling the fuel pump fuse has the same effect as removing the fuel pump relay. Either one should kill power to the fuel pump and allow you to relieve pressure from the fuel rail. As far as downloading the factory service manual, I have a copy of it that I downloaded several years ago, but the download link no longer seems viable. I am trying to upload it to a free file hosting site so that you can download it...if I'm successful, I'll post the link here and out the "About" tab on my UA-cam channel. Thanks for watching!
My alternator dies about every 2 years for some reason, had it fixed and now its barely running, like rough and stuttery like its out og gas , ima check this filter
Thanks for the video, any ideas about the redueced power light thats cause tge car to accelerate at 30 mph max and vibrates the engine with surging stalling as well. I changed throttle body ,checked all grounds and connections yet the same redueced power comes on isuzu rodeo 02. very appreciated to you.
Thanks Matt, the link was helpful , the post on planetisuzoo.com is not mine. My car is passport 2002 ,and 90% of the time is on reduced power mode and shaking with codes 1299,1125,1295,1515,1326,1220. the good 10% of the time drives good with no problems and no reduced power mode. APPS pedal sensor is $200 on ebay. I ll order it soon then post results .I changed Whole throttle body ,and TPS connector but no fix .Meanwhile checking the wires from TPS to computer. thank again
I have a question my isuzu 2001 rodeo will not start and everyone is telling me it is the anti theft system causing that.What can I do it has a brand new battery the horn works, the lights come on and it turns on but will not start.Please help me
I'm sorry to hear you have that issue. What happens when you try to start the engine? Does the starter sound like it's trying to crank the engine? If the starter is working, then my guess is that your issue is most likely not anti-theft related. My 2001 Ram truck died last summer and wouldn't start (the starter worked) and it turned out the computer had died and wasn't sending spark to the ignition coil. If your starter is working and you are comfortable doing some more in-depth troubleshooting on your own, you could try removing a spark plug boot and then take out a spark plug, then re-insert the spark plug into the boot (check out my spark plug replacement video for help: ua-cam.com/video/2P4Ay9VS1Lw/v-deo.html) Then, carefully holding onto the spark plug boot, touch the spark plug electrode to some bare metal inside the engine bay while a friend cranks the engine. You should be able to see the spark plug fire. If it's not firing, then you will need to do some more troubleshooting. That issue could be caused by many factors, such as a bad computer (like I experienced with my Ram truck), a bad crankshaft position sensor (which tells the computer at what point in its rotation the engine is - the computer won't allow the engine to run without a proper crankshaft position sensor signal), or some other electrical problem. However, if you don't hear your starter motor turn when you turn the ignition, then I would probably start by confirming if you have power going to your starter motor. You should be able to remove the electrical connector from the starter, and using a multimeter, check for voltage while someone else turns the ignition and attempts to start the engine. Be careful that you don't have your hands/clothing/hair anywhere near any of the moving parts of the engine or accessories when you do this, just in case the engine does start. If you DO have power at the starter, but the starter won't turn, then you probably have a bad starter. If you DON'T have power at the starter, then I suppose it's possible the anti-theft system is causing the problem. Unfortunately, I really have no experience with that and am not sure how to suggest you resolve that issue, but I can direct you to a great place to get help. Check out www.planetisuzoo.com - it is a great Isuzu forum with some incredibly helpful and knowledgeable people that will most definitely try to help you out. You have to register to post a thread (registration is free), so try that out and I'm sure someone will help you. Good luck, and let me know what you find out!
ANOTHER Great video, Matt. AND one that I intend to follow ASAP. So....any chance you'll be doing a video on changing the AC pump soon? My wife came home yesterday and said, "Hon..the car sounds funny". Gulp..Sure enough, went outside and started it and to me it sounds like the bearings in the Air Conditioner pump are going (gone?) bad. Called the local shop and ball parked the repair between 1000.00 and 1300.00 bucks!! Sigh...ridiculous! I'm not sure the car is worth that. So Matt, have I told you lately how great you are, and you’re a swell person, and that Spokane, WA is WHERE you need to be…lately? HA! Well, guess I’ll do a quick search to see if anyone’s got a video of replacing the AC pump and if so…I guess I know what I’ll be doing this weekend. (Seriously Matt, it’s great out here in Spokane..I mean, like NOW is the best time to visit!!) Thanks again for the great job!
Paul Mooter Well that stinks, Paul! I'm sorry to hear about the AC failure. Truth be told, I am pretty much totally oblivious to how to repair the AC system. I don't own a vacuum pump or gauges, so I'd have to pay someone to do that kind of a job. I would browse the forums at www.planetisuzoo.com for some tutorials, and if you can't find an answer, post a question. The folks there are friendly, knowledgeable, and extremely helpful. I'll bet someone will chime in to help you out. Heck, if you figure it out...make your own video! Best of luck, and let me know how it turns out!
***** HA! My video would be of me sitting in the car repair shop typing on my computer (I'm actually doing this right now!) waiting to pay them $1000 for fixing my AC pump...sigh.
Paul Mooter Paul, that is a real bummer....I'm sorry to hear that. I hope that the shop was at least able to make a quality repair and get you back on the road quickly. I'd love to learn how to do AC repairs myself...it can definitely save a lot of money! Good luck, and I hope you're riding in an ice cold Rodeo now!
TheMainMan318 I'm honestly not sure...they are an old set that my grandfather used to own and don't have any label/markings on them. I like them though...they are metal and don't try to skid out from under the tires like another set of plastic ramps I recently purchased. With that said, working below a vehicle on ramps always makes me a bit nervous. I also tend to put jack stands under the axles as a measure of secondary precaution. For relatively low cost, you could always build yourself a pair of functional, extremely safe ramps with some lumber. Stack 4 or 5 2x12 boards on top of each other (each with a beveled end to create the ramp), secure them together with some glue and screws, and you've got yourself some homemade ramps that don't cost much and will never collapse. Thanks for watching!
True I might do that or just buy some metal ones, since they aren't too much. I was leaning more towards metal for the strength. Also have you ever changed the o2 on your isuzu? I know I have a check engine light on for that and was wondering if that would be something you've done
TheMainMan318 If you do get some metal ramps, I would definitely look for some that have a brace welded from the angled part of the ramp to the upright part at the end of the ramp (essentially completing the triangle shape). I've seen some metal ramps that only have two sides of the "triangle", and those always make me a little nervous. I actually have not changed the O2 sensors on my Rodeo. I have the lovely California emissions setup (even though I live on the East Coast), so my vehicle has 4 O2 sensors - 2 pre-catalytic converter, and 2 post-catalytic converter. I've been meaning to try to do this, but just haven't had time. It's not that bad of a job, if you can get the sensors out...they simply thread into the exhaust, and have an electrical connection on the end of the wiring harness. I recently tried to remove the O2 sensors on my 2001 Dodge Ram, but they were seized so much that I couldn't get them out. I'm going to have to pay a shop to do it....might have to do the same with the Isuzu. What check engine code are you getting?
Okay I'll definitely look into that for the ramps. Yeah I was hoping I could bypass taking it to the shop because I know they'd just try and overcharge most likely for it and I figure if I could just do it myself, I'd rather do it. As for the codes I don't remember which codes came up, its been awhile since I went to autozone to check I just remember looking them up and them relating to the o2 sensor. I really looking to try and follow all of your videos since your videos so helpful. In the next couple months I plan on changing the air filter, cleaning the maf, checking the fuel filter and egr and replacing if necessary, replacing the front brake pads, and replacing the o2 sensor as well. I might try to tackle removing and really cleaning the lower and upper intake as well like you did
TheMainMan318 Cool, thanks for watching my videos...I'm glad you find them helpful! My Rodeo seems to be running pretty well now, but I do need to do a few projects this summer, such as change the transmission fluid, change the front and rear differential fluids, and change the transfer case fluid. If/when I get around to these projects, I'll definitely try to make a video of each project. If you are having EGR codes/issues, I'd definitely recommend devoting a long weekend to removing the intake manifold and really giving the inside of it, and the EGR tube, a good cleaning. While you have it removed, make sure you replace the thermostat and any coolant lines below the intake manifold so that you don't end up having to remove it again soon afterward. It's a bit of a time consuming project, but definitely something most folks can handle on their own. It's really just unbolting stuff and then bolting it back on in reverse order. There aren't a lot of specialty tools required; just some basic sockets and wrenches, and a fair amount of patience. Thanks again for watching, and let me know if you have any other questions.
Mine runs beautifully at 200,000 miles but recently the motor dies while driving at slow speeds. Think I'll start with this cheap replacement. If anyone has had the same problem let me know.
Serious question. Does your check engine light stay on. Even if you clear it on a scanner? I have a 2004 4x4 isuzu rodeo. I can't get that light to go off. Please help
+GoproZack Wow Zack, I'm really sorry - somehow I just now saw your comment. I know I'm 6 months late, so I hope you've solved your problem by now, but if the check engine light is still illuminated, it means you have a current issue that needs attention. Sometimes a problem can occur that causes the check engine light to illuminate, and then later the problem resolves itself (for instance, a loose gas cap can sometimes cause a trouble code), in which case the check engine light will eventually go back out on its own. Otherwise, the check engine light will stay illuminated as long as the problem still exists. If you clear the code with a scanner and the code comes back, it means there is still a problem. Do you know what code(s) you have? If so, let me know and I'll try to help you. Otherwise, most parts stores (Advance Auto Parts, Auto Zone, Napa, etc.) will will read codes for free. Once you know what code(s) is/are present, you can do some research and determine if the repairs are something you want to tackle on your own, or if you need to let a professional do the work. Sorry again for my late reply. Hopefully you got things sorted out already, but if not, let me know and I'll try to help you out.
Hi Matt.. My engine light came on and stays on after I installed my new fuel filter. . I suspect a sensor is detecting a pressure difference in the fuel lines. . Not sure why I did everything right... Theres no leaks. . Will check the hose connections again tomorrow morning...
It is 2023 now and your video is very informative. Thank you for sharing, Luis from Texas
A tip i have to add, pop the fuel cap to equalise pressure. I dont know if that was the reason i had an issue.
Thank you so much for the video.
I watched it and changed the fuel filter safely relatively speaking.
Problem i had is the fuel tank itself was pressurised from a hot day when i filled it perhaps.
Because the whole time i was changing the filter it was pissing into my oil pan and down my arms as i tried to pull the caps off the new filter and take the other pipe off the old filter which took 2 hands for me and i didnt use my ramps so was hard, if i didnt have a finger on the hose id lose more then the 1/10th of a tank i lost of premium fuel.
Your videos are always spot on and helpful.
Thank you Matt
Thanks bud and omg you narrate so well i cant stand people who talk to much
Now that is another very fine and easy to understand video.
Thank you for this and greetings from Portugal.
Sir ty for the video. I'm about to change out my fuel filter tomorrow and all i had was a pdf that was too complicated for me lol. Thank you again and i'll watch for you video's.
GordanFreeman420 No problem, Gordon! And I understand....if a picture is worth 1,000 words, then in my opinion, a video is worth 1,000,000. I find it so much easier to tackle something new if I've actually seen it done before, rather than simply read about it in a poorly-translated set of paper instructions. Good luck with your fuel filter replacement!
Thanks for watching, and stay tuned....I just purchased a cheap 2002 Trooper that I will be doing some maintenance on. It has basically the same engine, and I plan to document the repairs/maintenance tasks I do, so those videos should be helpful to Rodeo/Passport owners, too.
Thanks for the great video! It was a bear getting the fuel lines off on my wife's 1999 Rodeo, but your tip on the grease made putting the new ones on quite easy. Oh and I too observed the same rattle in my old filter. I appreciated your video on replacing the Rodeo's shocks as well!
Great job and video! Thanks for taking the time to do this. Love the details.
THANK YOU! I think I can actually do this myself after watching :) yay!
You're welcome, Crystal! I'm sure you can do this yourself. Good luck, and let me know how it turns out!
Thank you for taking the time to share this with us.
I changed the oil in my 2001 Isuzu Rodeo and now it won’t start. Cranks but won’t start so I’m thinking possibly a bad fuel filter. I noticed there’s no mention of the new fuel filter number or make so maybe it’s a one size fits all 2001 Isuzu Rodeos. Excellent video.
Good video bro. I didnt know about pulling the fuel pump fuse. Will help when i go and change the fuel filter in my 92 amigo tomorrow
Excellent video. Thank you!!
You take really good care of your trooper! It's in great shape with an amazingly clean engine and compartment!
I have a 91 2.8 I'm cleaning up now. My so doesn't know it yet but it's for him.
Thanks! I try to keep it as clean as possible. It's actually not that hard though, because it's always been a street queen and has never been off-roaded. Kind of sad, really, given that what these trucks are capable of, but this is my wife's daily driver for the foreseeable future, so I try to keep it nice and clean. It could use a paint job, but other than that, it's pretty clean.
That is totally awesome about the 91 for your son! Is he helping you fix it up?
@mattpayne4087 I just did this and after one drive it leaks, and then i readjust the clamps and it fixes it only temporarily again, any tips to keep it from leaking? Where about should those clamps be?
Good looking Rodeo! Thanks for the info
Excelente, mil gracias desde Colombia
Thanks for sharing this video.Its very helping me to do this job at my troopers..
I just bought a 2002 Passport EX and your video is so helpful since I was able to change my filter. Great! Now, I need to find out we what's causing P0446 code. I Checked purge solenoid valve and it is working when I applied 12volt. Only thing I can see is that the EGR valve has a leak between the round housing and the 3 bolts attaching to the metal plate; no leaks whatsoever between that plate and manifold with the two bolts. Driving me crazy.....
I'm glad you found this helpful! Sorry for my delayed response...I hope you have sorted out your issue by now. Any luck?
Thank you for sharing this its a lot easier
Pete mairu You're welcome!
Filter should not rattle even if it is clogged. Would try a Napa filter. If it continues being an issue perhaps cleaning and sealing the tank will solve the problem. Had a 1969 Chevy truck with that issue. Solved the problem permanently.
Thanks for your help cheers 🍺 from Australia
Golf tees work very well to stop dripping from detached rubber lines.
Job well done. Thanks alot for sharing. I Need to change fuel filter on 2003 rodeo. I'm sure it has about the same anatomy.
Thanks. You made it look easy.
Thank you! Great job !!!
Hi I'm about to service my 2004 isuzu rodeo pickup truck, thanks for the tips.
Man you make a really good video. Appreciate it.
Thanks so much for your compliment! You're very welcome - I'm glad you found it helpful!
very helpful I did it myself with your help of this video. thanks a lot..
You're welcome! I'm glad this helped!
very helpful video..thanks for posting..😄
You're welcome - thanks for watching!
Thanks alot buddy my Isuzu 1999 rodeo will love me alot cause of the new stuff that I've been putting. ......
Wario Florez Awesome! Good work on keeping it in good shape.
Have you ever lift your Isuzu rodeo? I want to lift it but when it comes to the front I'm guessing how ? Do you know
Wario Florez I have not lifted mine, though if it ever ceases to be my wife's daily driver, I probably will. It's pretty easy, though. You can purchase aftermarket springs or spacers for the rear, or you can actually swap in Jeep Cherokee springs and get about 1.5-2" of lift I believe. The front suspension uses torsion bars instead of springs, so you can simply crank the torsion bars to raise the front of the vehicle.
Here is some good information:
forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=75761&hilit=lift
forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=82490&p=730559&hilit=+torsion+bars+#p730559
It is really extremely affordable to get a couple inches of suspension lift on Isuzu vehicles. You can probably purchase the Cherokee springs for cheap, and the torsion bar crank is free. Granted, you can spend a lot more if you decide to purchase aftermarket springs specific to the Rodeo, and you can also get aftermarket heavy duty torsion bars.
Check out Independent4x4 for their Isuzu suspension parts if you want to go big:
www.independent4x.com/Isuzu-Store_c_8.html
Hey man you are a great help really I appreciate you thanks ..... actually this is my wife's too I have an impala2004 and I have that one fixed I actually wax that and the Isuzu like around 2 times a week lol but since my wife saw the interest that I have on the Isuzu she's like go on baby fix it up lol but I went on fixing the Isuzu from the engine to the shocks and all around lol now j want to lift it and put bigger tires too
Wario Florez That's awesome! My wife isn't the type to appreciate a good lift, so I probably won't lift my Rodeo while it's her vehicle. But, when it comes time to get her something new, I'll probably keep the Rodeo and maybe lift it and put on some slightly larger tires.
And no problem, I'm happy to help. I'm always glad to hear when other people like their Isuzu as much as I do. I think they are really cool vehicles that are mostly underappreciated. With a little TLC, they can be reliable. Good work on keeping your wife's ride in top shape!
Does the rubber line after the filter go all the way to the fuel rail? My hose is leaking just before the fuel rail and I have cut it once before for the same problem. Do you know what size of line I need?
Thank you man, please tell me about that sound what is exactly damage inside the filter? mine also make that sound.
Man you do some really thorough videos. Excellent job. I’m trying to figure out why mine is throwing p0446. I am thinking fuel tank pressure sensor? Have you had a run in with this trouble code yet?
What's the ticking noise at idle? I keep reading about it being associated with 1 or 2 common issues, either a bad timing belt tensioner or bad valve lifters and the 2000 LS I just bought sounds exactly like yours in this vid. I checked my timing belt and it definitely doesn't seem loose. It's driving me nuts because I've seen 3 Rodeos and a Passport ride by and they are so quiet LOL...Thanks in advance and I appreciate all of the other vids you've got up because they'll be a big help down the road.
When I started the engine at the end of this video, it never really warmed up and reached true "idle" speed, which should be around 800 RPM I believe. So, you were hearing the engine revved up a little bit. However, you are correct that many Isuzu engines "tick" a little bit. When my Rodeo reaches idle, it is very quiet, but does produce a ticking sound. It almost sounds like a diesel engine. I'm not exactly sure what the cause of this is, but I suspect it is probably a product of valve lash being out of adjustment, since this engine uses dual overhead cams with shims. Every cylinder has two intake valves and two exhaust valves, so there are a fair amount of contact surfaces. My assumption is that the cam lobes contacting the valve shims is what causes most of the ticking noise so common with Isuzu engines. However, that is just my opinion, so I may be totally wrong!
I'm glad you have found my videos helpful! I'm always very glad to hear that someone has found something on my channel useful.
Recommend doing a valve adjustment.
TY!!! No smoken on this job, lol 🔥🤟🏼
Hi Matt. Did you ever find the problem? Thanks.
thank you very helpful I am going to try this
You're welcome! I hope it worked out well for you.
Legend
I have a question when you change the fuel pump should you change the fuel filter also?
Jorge Delgado Yes
2000 Isuzu Rodeo air filter replacement video???? PLEASE i need it so badly if you can.
Ace Liu, do you still need such video?
Matt has a video teaching on how to clean the Mass Air Flow sensor, and to replace the air filter, all you have to do is open the air box. You can see and learn how to do it in his video here:
ua-cam.com/video/ANlI64WNOy4/v-deo.html
@Matt Payne does this apply to the 2001 Passport? My understanding is that it’s the same as the Rodeo.
Thx
Matt, Great video and quick question. Would a bad filter cause the vehicle to act like its out of gas when it actually has about 1/2 a tank? I changed the fuel pump months ago. I have a 1999 rodeo.
+honiballist That is definitely possible. A completely blocked fuel filter could prevent enough fuel from reaching the injectors and prevent the engine from running properly. The easiest way to check would be to check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. You can pick up an inexpensive fuel pressure gauge from Harbor Freight Tools:
www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html
You can connect the gauge at the Schrader valve on the driver's side of the fuel rail - it should look like the valve on a bicycle tire. I keep meaning to create a brief video about this process, but it's fairly self-explanatory. I usually relieve the pressure in the fuel rail by starting the engine and then pulling the fuel pump fuse (like in this video), and then remove the cap on the Schrader valve and connect the pressure gauge hose. Then re-insert the fuel pump fuse, and then turn the ignition to "On" and get out and check the gauge. If I remember correctly, the pressure should be about 36-40 psi with ignition on/engine off. If that checks out, you can start the engine and then check pressure again. I believe this pressure should be 34-38 psi or thereabouts...my memory is a little foggy on this. If you get any wildly low readings, you know there is an issue somewhere in the fuel delivery system, and the best place to start would be with a fresh filter, since it's cheap and relatively easy to replace.
Good luck!
Great video. Gonna do this tomorrow with my 03 rodeo. How all goes as well as it did for you!
Thanks so much! I hope it went smoothly for you. Thanks for watching!
@@mattpayne4087 went great, thanks to your video!
when are you going to do a video how to change and drain the transmission oil and change filter that would be cool
Good question! I started to make such a video, but ended up stopping when I realized the transmission on my 2001 Trooper was bad, haha. Perhaps one day I will get around to doing this on my Rodeo and can film it.
removing Fuse vs Fuel Pump Relay.. any difference ?
Also, do you know where to find the service manual for it? Even the factory service manual?
sypher0101 I believe pulling the fuel pump fuse has the same effect as removing the fuel pump relay. Either one should kill power to the fuel pump and allow you to relieve pressure from the fuel rail.
As far as downloading the factory service manual, I have a copy of it that I downloaded several years ago, but the download link no longer seems viable. I am trying to upload it to a free file hosting site so that you can download it...if I'm successful, I'll post the link here and out the "About" tab on my UA-cam channel.
Thanks for watching!
My alternator dies about every 2 years for some reason, had it fixed and now its barely running, like rough and stuttery like its out og gas , ima check this filter
Do you have to drain the fuel?
Thanks for the video, any ideas about the redueced power light thats cause tge car to accelerate at 30 mph max and vibrates the engine with surging stalling as well. I changed throttle body ,checked all grounds and connections yet the same redueced power comes on isuzu rodeo 02. very appreciated to you.
Having the same issue with my 2002 Rodeo, did you ever get your problem resolved?
+Timothy J. Marsh ,not yet still looking for solution.keep in touch
Thanks Matt, the link was helpful , the post on planetisuzoo.com is not mine. My car is passport 2002 ,and 90% of the time is on reduced power mode and shaking with codes 1299,1125,1295,1515,1326,1220. the good 10% of the time drives good with no problems and no reduced power mode. APPS pedal sensor is $200 on ebay. I ll order it soon then post results .I changed Whole throttle body ,and TPS connector but no fix .Meanwhile checking the wires from TPS to computer. thank again
I have a question my isuzu 2001 rodeo will not start and everyone is telling me it is the anti theft system causing that.What can I do it has a brand new battery the horn works, the lights come on and it turns on but will not start.Please help me
I'm sorry to hear you have that issue. What happens when you try to start the engine? Does the starter sound like it's trying to crank the engine? If the starter is working, then my guess is that your issue is most likely not anti-theft related. My 2001 Ram truck died last summer and wouldn't start (the starter worked) and it turned out the computer had died and wasn't sending spark to the ignition coil. If your starter is working and you are comfortable doing some more in-depth troubleshooting on your own, you could try removing a spark plug boot and then take out a spark plug, then re-insert the spark plug into the boot (check out my spark plug replacement video for help: ua-cam.com/video/2P4Ay9VS1Lw/v-deo.html) Then, carefully holding onto the spark plug boot, touch the spark plug electrode to some bare metal inside the engine bay while a friend cranks the engine. You should be able to see the spark plug fire. If it's not firing, then you will need to do some more troubleshooting. That issue could be caused by many factors, such as a bad computer (like I experienced with my Ram truck), a bad crankshaft position sensor (which tells the computer at what point in its rotation the engine is - the computer won't allow the engine to run without a proper crankshaft position sensor signal), or some other electrical problem.
However, if you don't hear your starter motor turn when you turn the ignition, then I would probably start by confirming if you have power going to your starter motor. You should be able to remove the electrical connector from the starter, and using a multimeter, check for voltage while someone else turns the ignition and attempts to start the engine. Be careful that you don't have your hands/clothing/hair anywhere near any of the moving parts of the engine or accessories when you do this, just in case the engine does start.
If you DO have power at the starter, but the starter won't turn, then you probably have a bad starter. If you DON'T have power at the starter, then I suppose it's possible the anti-theft system is causing the problem. Unfortunately, I really have no experience with that and am not sure how to suggest you resolve that issue, but I can direct you to a great place to get help. Check out www.planetisuzoo.com - it is a great Isuzu forum with some incredibly helpful and knowledgeable people that will most definitely try to help you out. You have to register to post a thread (registration is free), so try that out and I'm sure someone will help you.
Good luck, and let me know what you find out!
ANOTHER Great video, Matt. AND one that I intend to follow ASAP. So....any chance you'll be doing a video on changing the AC pump soon? My wife came home yesterday and said, "Hon..the car sounds funny". Gulp..Sure enough, went outside and started it and to me it sounds like the bearings in the Air Conditioner pump are going (gone?) bad. Called the local shop and ball parked the repair between 1000.00 and 1300.00 bucks!! Sigh...ridiculous! I'm not sure the car is worth that. So Matt, have I told you lately how great you are, and you’re a swell person, and that Spokane, WA is WHERE you need to be…lately? HA! Well, guess I’ll do a quick search to see if anyone’s got a video of replacing the AC pump and if so…I guess I know what I’ll be doing this weekend. (Seriously Matt, it’s great out here in Spokane..I mean, like NOW is the best time to visit!!) Thanks again for the great job!
Paul Mooter Well that stinks, Paul! I'm sorry to hear about the AC failure. Truth be told, I am pretty much totally oblivious to how to repair the AC system. I don't own a vacuum pump or gauges, so I'd have to pay someone to do that kind of a job. I would browse the forums at www.planetisuzoo.com for some tutorials, and if you can't find an answer, post a question. The folks there are friendly, knowledgeable, and extremely helpful. I'll bet someone will chime in to help you out. Heck, if you figure it out...make your own video!
Best of luck, and let me know how it turns out!
***** HA! My video would be of me sitting in the car repair shop typing on my computer (I'm actually doing this right now!) waiting to pay them $1000 for fixing my AC pump...sigh.
Paul Mooter Paul, that is a real bummer....I'm sorry to hear that. I hope that the shop was at least able to make a quality repair and get you back on the road quickly.
I'd love to learn how to do AC repairs myself...it can definitely save a lot of money! Good luck, and I hope you're riding in an ice cold Rodeo now!
Thanks! This helped.
Jam Rock No problem, I'm glad! Thanks for watching.
thank you i have 2000 isuzu trooper, it's almost the same..
Carlos Vega You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Matt, please indicate the price you paid for the parts as well, it will be so helpful for those of us cheap enough to compare prices. Thanks
Hey have you had issues with the ABS system
Not on my Rodeo. Are you having issues? If so, check out my video on checking ABS trouble codes!
what kind of ramps are those? i've been looking for some decent ones
TheMainMan318 I'm honestly not sure...they are an old set that my grandfather used to own and don't have any label/markings on them. I like them though...they are metal and don't try to skid out from under the tires like another set of plastic ramps I recently purchased.
With that said, working below a vehicle on ramps always makes me a bit nervous. I also tend to put jack stands under the axles as a measure of secondary precaution. For relatively low cost, you could always build yourself a pair of functional, extremely safe ramps with some lumber. Stack 4 or 5 2x12 boards on top of each other (each with a beveled end to create the ramp), secure them together with some glue and screws, and you've got yourself some homemade ramps that don't cost much and will never collapse.
Thanks for watching!
True I might do that or just buy some metal ones, since they aren't too much. I was leaning more towards metal for the strength.
Also have you ever changed the o2 on your isuzu? I know I have a check engine light on for that and was wondering if that would be something you've done
TheMainMan318 If you do get some metal ramps, I would definitely look for some that have a brace welded from the angled part of the ramp to the upright part at the end of the ramp (essentially completing the triangle shape). I've seen some metal ramps that only have two sides of the "triangle", and those always make me a little nervous.
I actually have not changed the O2 sensors on my Rodeo. I have the lovely California emissions setup (even though I live on the East Coast), so my vehicle has 4 O2 sensors - 2 pre-catalytic converter, and 2 post-catalytic converter. I've been meaning to try to do this, but just haven't had time. It's not that bad of a job, if you can get the sensors out...they simply thread into the exhaust, and have an electrical connection on the end of the wiring harness. I recently tried to remove the O2 sensors on my 2001 Dodge Ram, but they were seized so much that I couldn't get them out. I'm going to have to pay a shop to do it....might have to do the same with the Isuzu.
What check engine code are you getting?
Okay I'll definitely look into that for the ramps.
Yeah I was hoping I could bypass taking it to the shop because I know they'd just try and overcharge most likely for it and I figure if I could just do it myself, I'd rather do it.
As for the codes I don't remember which codes came up, its been awhile since I went to autozone to check I just remember looking them up and them relating to the o2 sensor. I really looking to try and follow all of your videos since your videos so helpful. In the next couple months I plan on changing the air filter, cleaning the maf, checking the fuel filter and egr and replacing if necessary, replacing the front brake pads, and replacing the o2 sensor as well. I might try to tackle removing and really cleaning the lower and upper intake as well like you did
TheMainMan318 Cool, thanks for watching my videos...I'm glad you find them helpful! My Rodeo seems to be running pretty well now, but I do need to do a few projects this summer, such as change the transmission fluid, change the front and rear differential fluids, and change the transfer case fluid. If/when I get around to these projects, I'll definitely try to make a video of each project.
If you are having EGR codes/issues, I'd definitely recommend devoting a long weekend to removing the intake manifold and really giving the inside of it, and the EGR tube, a good cleaning. While you have it removed, make sure you replace the thermostat and any coolant lines below the intake manifold so that you don't end up having to remove it again soon afterward. It's a bit of a time consuming project, but definitely something most folks can handle on their own. It's really just unbolting stuff and then bolting it back on in reverse order. There aren't a lot of specialty tools required; just some basic sockets and wrenches, and a fair amount of patience.
Thanks again for watching, and let me know if you have any other questions.
Can you come to ohio and fix mine too, its a 99
Mine runs beautifully at 200,000 miles but recently the motor dies while driving at slow speeds. Think I'll start with this cheap replacement. If anyone has had the same problem let me know.
@John Smithy I cleaned the throttle body and changed the fuel filter. No problems since.
Yeah
If you are going to go through all that trouble than just replace the $10 filter....
Too much talking just show people how to replace I'm already ASE
hi matt can i ask for your email?
Serious question. Does your check engine light stay on. Even if you clear it on a scanner? I have a 2004 4x4 isuzu rodeo. I can't get that light to go off. Please help
+GoproZack Wow Zack, I'm really sorry - somehow I just now saw your comment. I know I'm 6 months late, so I hope you've solved your problem by now, but if the check engine light is still illuminated, it means you have a current issue that needs attention. Sometimes a problem can occur that causes the check engine light to illuminate, and then later the problem resolves itself (for instance, a loose gas cap can sometimes cause a trouble code), in which case the check engine light will eventually go back out on its own. Otherwise, the check engine light will stay illuminated as long as the problem still exists. If you clear the code with a scanner and the code comes back, it means there is still a problem.
Do you know what code(s) you have? If so, let me know and I'll try to help you. Otherwise, most parts stores (Advance Auto Parts, Auto Zone, Napa, etc.) will will read codes for free.
Once you know what code(s) is/are present, you can do some research and determine if the repairs are something you want to tackle on your own, or if you need to let a professional do the work.
Sorry again for my late reply. Hopefully you got things sorted out already, but if not, let me know and I'll try to help you out.
Hi Matt.. My engine light came on and stays on after I installed my new fuel filter. . I suspect a sensor is detecting a pressure difference in the fuel lines. . Not sure why I did everything right... Theres no leaks. . Will check the hose connections again tomorrow morning...
never mind- the engine light eventually went away.
what did you do to get it to go away forsure?
Nothing, did my usual driving... next day it was gone. I suspect any air or something in the system got burnt up