Thank you for taking the time to make these videos - in an adult manner - and in an informative way. Most videos are shaky, poor grammar, and skip several steps on "how to" do the task at hand. I can't believe your mechanic left that clamp inside the intake trac....you're a better man than I am. Good job Matt!
Uncle Deez Thanks!! I really do appreciate your kind words. I'm nowhere near being a professional mechanic, so I try to make up for my lack of experience and knowledge by at least providing clear instructions. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting!
Sir, you are a man of great patience and determination! Well, done.... you must be an engineer, teacher or an accountant. Your level of focus and attention are encouraging.
Matt, I just had to replace the thermostat in my 2002, and I want to say thank you. What I thought was going to be a week long project, I got done in one day because of your videos. Thank you so much!!!
Robert Spears Robert, thanks so much for your comment - reading things like this makes my day! My sole motivation for posting these videos was to try to help out other people, so it's always rewarding to hear that I may have accomplished that. Thanks again, and congratulations on repairing your vehicle yourself!
Dude... I love you! Your videos have given me the courage to tackle this project; that is, when the weather gets a little warmer around here. One thing that would be super beneficial though would be a list of all of the gaskets used, and part numbers if available. That way I can have all of my ducks in a row before the teardown, and not have to make 5 trips to the parts store after being elbow deep and greasy. Thanks again, you rock... T...
Haha, thanks for the kind words! However, I owe the very tiny bit of knowledge I have to the nice folks at www.planetisuzoo.com, so I really can't take credit for anything. With regard to a parts list, here's a brief rundown, with the parts I used in parentheses: -Throttle body gasket (shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-throttle-body-gasket-61517/19783801-P?searchTerm=throttle+body+gasket) -EGR gasket (shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-egr-exhaust-air-supply-gasket-70789/19780009-P?searchTerm=egr+gasket) -Thermostat and gasket (shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/stant-thermostat-170-degrees-fahrenheit-14327/15480036-P?searchTerm=thermostat; comes with thermostat and gasket together) -Fuel injector O-rings (don't remember which brand I bought, but your local parts store should be able to give you what you need) -Intake manifold gasket set (shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-intake-manifold-gasket-set-ms-90610/15780158-P?searchTerm=intake+manifold+gasket; comes with upper and lower gaskets) -Water manifold gasket and O-rings (Parts 12, 13, and 16 [need 2 of these] on the diagram here: www.hondapartsunlimited.com/auto-parts/2001/honda/passport/engine/thermostat-piping/?trim=4ex&engine=4-speed-automatic) -Fuel pressure regulator (shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-intermotor-fuel-pressure-regulator-23044/18470616-P?navigationPath=L1*14932%7CL2*14985%7CL3*15355) I also replaced various vacuum lines as necessary, but I would wait until you tear everything down so you can inspect these and determine which ones need replacing, if any. I do recommend replacing the soft coolant lines that connect underneath the intake manifold; one of these started to leak about a year ago, which was the reason a mechanic had to remove the manifold, which is how that stupid hose clamp got inside and made me film this series of videos....so anyway, you may as well replace these lines while you have the manifold off, because they will start to leak eventually and you don't want to do this project any more than you have to. I am probably forgetting something, but I think that's about it. If I remember anything else, I'll post it. Let me know if you get into it and get stumped by something....I have a bunch of still photos that I took that I can post or send if you need help. Good luck!
I did this job today. I needed to replace the thermostat on my 2002. Luckily I work at a car dealership and have the shop at my disposal, including the technicians tools. We’re still a beast of a job. But it’s back together now Next weekend is valve cover gasket, spark plugs, tube seals, and coils. Then next Sunday, time to wrap it!
I really appreciated your work, effort and selflessness to create this series. Others also commented on courage to attack this project . I am considering removing the intake manifold because of a vacuum leak under the throttle body exposed by propane test. My 99 trooper has a check engine light and I have replaced a list of parts starting with cleaning the MAS then throttle body gasket starting the list. I did do the water pump , timing belt, and valve cover gaskets. I also learned to hate the isuzu engineers. I referred to your videos then, too. I will do the thermostat job too , when I get the nerve and gumption to attempt it. Thanks
Thanks my dude. I have my brother trooper which looks to be the same engine. But my brother died this past summer and im fianlly getting into his ride which we used together for hunting and fishing trips. It needs alot of work and this will definitely make it easy. No one around my area wants to work on it so I've taken it upon myself to save this
Hi Matt I'm here in the UK (Yorkshire) with a Vauxhall Frontera, same as your Isuzu Rodeo, and HAVE to do an engine swap on it as there's a bottom end knock and I'm not about to do a full engine rebuild on it! I'm a qualified mechanic 30 years ago but now scared & doubting myself as things are HUGELY different! I just wanted to say a BIG BIG BIG thank you for these five posts on removing the intake manifold as I now know that without doing this, I won't be able to get in to remove the top bell housing bolts. The job just keeps getting scarier and more involved but I suppose at least I do have the replacement engine already here to practice on before the main event! During this job, I'm making vids (but could probably be better) which I hope might highlight something during the process that could help someone. The engine is a "6VD1W" but the replacement engine I'm not sure about. The wiring, manifold & wiring are all different. I'm stripping it down "Off-Video" as everything from the existing car needs to be brought across before the transplant..... My main point (sorry for waffling on) is that I'm SOOOOO grateful for your efforts previously and I hope you might keep an eye on what I'm doing and maybe offer some advice along the way as I go? Some of my vids/uploads might be a bit off-track but I love this SUV and really want to get it all done before this Unseasonal great weather here in the UK comes to an end ...Subscribe maybe? Let me know your thoughts or suggestions? Lee
I just spent 11 hours doing this same tare down for the same problem. the o-ring on the heater core pipe off the back of the water manifold rusted through and blew. im not done fixing this but you showed me how it all comes apart. thank you
Nice work, Jared! I'm sorry you had that issue, but you should be very proud of yourself for figuring out how to repair it yourself! I hope your truck is running well now. Thanks for watching!
Great series of videos on the intake manifold/thermostat/valve cover maintenance. After watching it several times and taking notes along the way, I'm ready to do the same to my 1998 Honda Passport with 190,000 miles. Wish me luck !!!
Gregory Dallape Thanks, Gregory! This project is really not that hard, so hopefully with the visual aid of these videos, you'll knock it out in no time! I know for sure that if I did it again, I could probably do it in 50-75% of the time it took the first go-round, simply because I wouldn't be seeing things for the first time. Best of luck, and let me know if you have any questions along the way....I try to check comments every few days. Thanks for watching!
Hi Matt. I gave the project a try today. Everything went smoothly until I came to removing the EGR tube from the bottom section of the intake manifold. Your video mentioned using an adjustable wrench. I wanted to ask if the threads turn in the normal counterclockwise direction to loosen. I definitely need to find a proper wrench. Other than that all went without surprises. I didn't have the problem you had with the fuel pressure regulator cover and that tight fitting bolt up against the firewall. The last guy who removed decided to leave it out. If you have any suggestions on how to loosen that tube..I'm all ears. Thank you for all the attention.
Gregory Dallape Hi Gregory, I'm glad to hear you made good progress! Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. I am 99% sure that the flared connection on the EGR tube leading down to the exhaust manifold has normal threads, meaning they un-thread in a counter-clockwise direction. My adjustable wrench worked, but BARELY, and I was only able to turn it a couple of degrees with each turn before I had to reposition it. A crow's foot style wrench would probably be a better way to go....particularly a ratcheting-type one like this: ua-cam.com/video/dDyScQP4eLg/v-deo.html Since I didn't have one of those, I just made do with what I had...but it was painstaking. Good luck with the rest of your project! Feel free to let me know if you have any more questions. I have a bunch of still photos from my project that occasionally come in handy, too.
Funny, I too have a 98 Honda Passport with 190k, and needing to do this project. Ditto on the great series of videos! Looking to tackle soon. I'm getting the P0507 code, Higher than expected idle, I've replaced the Idle Air Control Valve and the EGR Valve and tried to clean, without excessive removal, each areas...but the issue I'm having is that (usually in cold weather conditions) after prolonged speeds of 50-70 MPH I get a flashing check transmission light and a check engine light. The codes for both are the P0507. Along with the flashing I get very hard transmission shifting, but once I pull over shut the engine off and restart the shifting is back to normal and the flashing transmission light is gone. My (poorly constructed) theory is that due to the engine RPM issue (idle air control valve sticking from the build up of residue) the transmission shifting is affected. You all got a better theory? Had a similar issue? Either way I know that the cleaning can't hurt!...and I'm hoping will fix the issue.
Andrew Davis Hmm....I've never had that code, but it sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. Check out this thread: forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=48699&p=401240&hilit=P0507#p401240 One very knowledgeable poster suggested to check/replace the PCV valve, since that is an inexpensive and easy part to replace. If your PCV has failed, you essentially have a vacuum leak, which will make the engine idle differently than the computer expects it to idle, since un-measured air is entering the intake via the leak rather than past the mass airflow sensor. If your PCV checks out OK, then I would look for a broken vacuum hose, or worst case scenario, a failed intake manifold gasket. You could check for such a problem by spraying some carb cleaner around the intake and vacuum hoses to see if the engine idle changes. If the idle does change, you'll know that some of the carb cleaner is getting "inhaled" via the leak. If you have to replace your intake manifold, well...now you know how! Of course, I could be totally wrong about all of that. You are wise to suspect the Idle Air Control Valve, but since you've already replaced it once and you still have the problem, it makes me believe there is something else at play. Thanks for watching, and best of luck. Let me know what you find out. I'm always trying to gain more knowledge so I will know what to do if I ever have a similar problem!
Great videos! I'm thinking about doing my valve cover gaskets because I'm leaking. But I'm also fixing to hit 200k, so I'm wondering whether or not to tackle the timing belts, too. Thanks for the info!
Such an awesome video! Very well done, will be using this as a guide when I do thermostat and valve cover gasket replacement next weekend! Thank you for this.
I feel for you I took mine down to the bare block and number 6 cylinder appeared to have a crack redone the heads and cleaned out the egr got it back together and it ran great is there a part 4 showing how you got the clamp out of the valve it went from 3 to Part 5
Thanks for the video, i can now remove the intake manifold and clean it out to get rid of my EGR insufficient flow code. Will also change the thermostat as you did.
Hi Matt, I am following your videos for the intake manifold removal and didn't see a Part 4 to this series. Do you have a part four that covers the valve cover removal and fix?
Good morning Matt. 2000 Trooper over here in NC. Anyway, ALL of your Isuzu videos have been very helpful!!! Thank You! So, I do have a question. The butterfly accuator valve located on the back DS of the intake manifold. Do you know how to remove it? If so would you care to share? I have placed both halves in the parts washer being careful not to submerge this particular part. All other electronics were reoved beforehand. Thank you for your time. Mark
Great stuff man. You sure have balls of steel. I have an Isuzu Trooper that burns oil like crazy...need new value seals. I might attempt this. Keep it up.
Thanks! Haha....I'm not sure how brave I am...I just didn't have many alternatives. It was either drop $500-$1000 and have a mechanic do the job, or just try it myself first and see what happened. I figured the worst case scenario would be me getting halfway into it and getting totally stumped, and having to get it towed to a mechanic. In the end, I'm really glad I did this on my own. I cared about doing it correctly way more than a mechanic probably would (as evidenced by the freaking hose clamp I found inside the engine!), and I gained some really valuable knowledge along the way. The 3.5L Trooper engines are notorious for burning oil....something to do with the drainback holes in the piston rings getting clogged up. I've read that people have had good luck with using Shell Rotella oil (which is actually a diesel oil but is safe to use with gas engines) because it has a higher detergent content and can help clear these drainback holes over time. I just started running Rotella in my Rodeo recently because it was using some oil, too, so I'm hoping to see some benefit soon. I've also read that some people have actually reduced the oil-burning issue by soaking their cylinders with Sea Foam by pulling the spark plugs and pouring enough Sea Foam into each spark plug hole to cover the cylinder. Then they suck it out after a day or two and replace the plugs. I haven't tried this procedure....but I may consider doing it in the future. Good luck with your Trooper. Just keep an eye on the oil level and you should be fine.
Very helpful. I just picked up a '94 Rodeo at an auction. it runs good, but is loosing water underneath the intake manifold. I'm pretty sure it is a hose, but can't see exactly. I was afraid i was going to have to remove the whole thing and now i know. thx.
BLOODstorm Cool, congrats on your "new" purchase! That hose under the intake manifold is notorious for leaking, so that's probably what's going on. I'd definitely recommend changing the thermostat, too while you're at it. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
OK Matt, I basically followed all your videos (GREAT HELP!!), I put everything back together, but at the end I am left with just one thing (UGHHHH) On the back on the back of the Intake Manifold, there are the 2 vacuum hoses you said would be good to have ready... Well I did that, installed everything ,, Attached one hose to the Fuel Regulator, However, its the other one (that comes off what appears to be some kind of actuator).. I just can't remember where it goes.... This is all I have left, and I am finally finished. Really would appreciate your help on this... THANKS!!!!
jeff Kruichak Jeff, so sorry for just now getting around to checking comments....sorry for leaving you hanging. Funny story - I actually discovered that I forgot to re-connect one of those very same vacuum lines after my repair. The one you are referencing connects to the diaphragm that controls the engine braking butterfly valves - there is one that is in each intake manifold "runner" that act to restrict airflow when the vehicle senses it is traveling downhill, and thus uses the resistance of the engine to help prevent acceleration so that you do not have to use your brakes excessively. At least, that is my dumbed-down understanding of how the system works. Anyway, as far as where that hose goes, I believe it should connect to the "vacuum switching valve" near the fuel pressure regulator. I just went out and snapped a couple of photos of this connection on my vehicle. I hope this helps: www.brinkleys.org/users/tsl/Files/20141003_191926.jpg www.brinkleys.org/users/tsl/Files/20141003_191939.jpg
I know after 8 years, this is wishful thinking... BUT, do you have any still shots of the vacuum lines running to what you have labeled "VSV" vacuum switching valve? There are 3 ports and I didn't label them (actually one has a vacuum cap on it, which probably shouldn't be). The bracket you fought with isn't even on mine, so I'm sure it was "molested/bubba'd" in years past by previous owner. Thanks...Great Videos! Wish I had viewed PRIOR to completing!
Hi Donovan, I actually do have a bunch of photos from that project. Try the link below to see if this shows what you're looking for: www.dropbox.com/s/gm9a32hb6hn3hck/20140113_165643-1.jpg?dl=0 If not, let me know and I will see if I can dig up some more. Thanks for watching!
@@mattpayne4087 Thanks so much... that did help. I had a 50/50 shot with those two hoses and had them reversed. Strangely, my "VSS" (2003 model) has a third port on the opposite end that has a vacuum cap on it. Wasn't sure if a hose connected to that or if a previous owner just capped it off because they didn't know what went there! Anyway, your pic and at 2:43 of Part 1 shows yours just has 2 ports, so maybe it's for an option I don't have or just really isn't needed (emissions-related???). Until my "check engine" light comes on, I'm not going to worry about it!! Thanks again... GREAT video / tutorial.
I just purchased a 2001 Rodeo 4WD.... and I followed all your Great help on replacing the thermostat...It was a job, but got it. Anyways, I was wondering if you had any insight on replacing the waterpump.
jeff Kruichak Thanks for watching, Jeff - I'm glad my videos were able to be of assistance! I have not actually tackled the water pump myself, but I would sign up at www.planetisuzoo.com (it's free) and then use the search function to see what information you can find there. If you can't find what you're looking for, just post a question and I am sure some very knowledgeable folks will help you in whatever way they can. That forum is how I have learned everything I know how to do on my Isuzu (which admittedly is not all that much...but I'm still learning). I'm sorry I can't offer more direct help, but I hope I've at least pointed you in the right direction. Good luck!
Which vacuum connections are you referring to? I thought I showed most every step in the video series, but I have a few still photos that I can share if there is something in particular you need to see. Just let me know.
Michael, sorry for my slow response....the knock sensor is actually part of the Ignition Control Module and is located on top of the intake manifold. It is my understanding that most related problems are not the module itself, but are due to some sort of issue causing a misfire. Do you have any check engine codes present?
i have a 99 rodeo and i replaced the thermostat on it, hooked everything back up. and when i turn the key, the engine sounds like its misfiring, it backfires and it will not idle.. i really hope i didnt mess anything up. do you have any ideas about what i could've done wrong or whats wrong with it? Thank you. PS i love your vids
+STEAL7H I'm sorry to hear you're having that issue following your repair. Did you remove the intake manifold to get to the thermostat? And do you have any trouble codes associated with your current misfiring issue? It could be something simple like a coil pack or fuel injector not being connected. I'd check for codes first, and then start double-checking all of your wiring connections. Good luck! Let me know if you get it figured out. Thanks for watching!
My rodeo was leaking fuel from what I was told was the fuel return line. The hose looked like it had a blow out, and a crack on the end where it connected to the fuel pressure regulator. Pain in the ass to replace, as it is between that bracket and the fire wall, behind the intake!
Thanks! I actually filmed this entire series with the camera on my Samsung Galaxy S4 phone....I'm pretty impressed with its abilities. It struggles mightily in low light, but in daylight it takes some really clear video. Thanks for watching!
Musher Deeds Yeah I've been really impressed with the S4 overall. The camera is fantastic, and the phone itself is really good, too. Sadly, my S4 got smashed the other day when it fell off my belt clip :-( I got a replacement today and spent hours setting it up. Ugh. Now, if you're just looking for a camera only, I've heard that the Go Pro cameras are incredible. I've never gotten to use one, but the video I've seen from them on UA-cam is insanely clear.
Chris, that totally depends on your location. And, what exactly is your issue with thermostat? Is it stuck open? Is the vehicle driveable? What is the overall condition? I can't really tell you what the vehicle is worth, but I would enter your information into www.kbb.com and see what you get. The cost of the repair is probably about $500 if you pay a shop, or simply the cost of the thermostat and whatever gaskets you decide to replace if you do it yourself (maybe $30-$50).
Bobby Vinton Bobby, I definitely would, especially since now I think I could do it much more efficiently. If you've watched this video series and are considering doing this repair on your own, I definitely encourage you to do so if you have the patience, tools, and just a little bit of skill. You can definitely do it. If you get stumped, feel free to send me a message...I have a bunch of still photos that I took during my process that may be of assistance. I'm no expert, but I'll be happy to help any way that I can. Thanks for watching!
After watching this and my experience over the years of mechanics doing the wrong thing I believe most cars faults and issues are caused by dodgy mechanics. I think your best off trying to learn your own car inside and out and keeping a good maintenance record of your own to make your vehicle last.
Hopefully the quality of the O-ring you lubricated with vaseline is typical Isuzu quality, as it might last longer than ordinary rubber. NEVER use vaseline on rubber - it eats it. Use rubber grease instead.
+Gerhard Petersen Gerhard, great point - I realized this error after the fact. As you said, hopefully my o-ring is of good quality and will last a while. I should edit my video to make this revision, though. Thanks a lot for pointing this out.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos - in an adult manner - and in an informative way. Most videos are shaky, poor grammar, and skip several steps on "how to" do the task at hand. I can't believe your mechanic left that clamp inside the intake trac....you're a better man than I am. Good job Matt!
Uncle Deez Thanks!! I really do appreciate your kind words. I'm nowhere near being a professional mechanic, so I try to make up for my lack of experience and knowledge by at least providing clear instructions. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting!
Sir, you are a man of great patience and determination! Well, done.... you must be an engineer, teacher or an accountant. Your level of focus and attention are encouraging.
Matt, I just had to replace the thermostat in my 2002, and I want to say thank you. What I thought was going to be a week long project, I got done in one day because of your videos. Thank you so much!!!
Robert Spears Robert, thanks so much for your comment - reading things like this makes my day! My sole motivation for posting these videos was to try to help out other people, so it's always rewarding to hear that I may have accomplished that. Thanks again, and congratulations on repairing your vehicle yourself!
Dude... I love you! Your videos have given me the courage to tackle this project; that is, when the weather gets a little warmer around here. One thing that would be super beneficial though would be a list of all of the gaskets used, and part numbers if available. That way I can have all of my ducks in a row before the teardown, and not have to make 5 trips to the parts store after being elbow deep and greasy.
Thanks again, you rock...
T...
Haha, thanks for the kind words! However, I owe the very tiny bit of knowledge I have to the nice folks at www.planetisuzoo.com, so I really can't take credit for anything.
With regard to a parts list, here's a brief rundown, with the parts I used in parentheses:
-Throttle body gasket (shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-throttle-body-gasket-61517/19783801-P?searchTerm=throttle+body+gasket)
-EGR gasket (shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-egr-exhaust-air-supply-gasket-70789/19780009-P?searchTerm=egr+gasket)
-Thermostat and gasket (shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/stant-thermostat-170-degrees-fahrenheit-14327/15480036-P?searchTerm=thermostat; comes with thermostat and gasket together)
-Fuel injector O-rings (don't remember which brand I bought, but your local parts store should be able to give you what you need)
-Intake manifold gasket set (shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-intake-manifold-gasket-set-ms-90610/15780158-P?searchTerm=intake+manifold+gasket; comes with upper and lower gaskets)
-Water manifold gasket and O-rings (Parts 12, 13, and 16 [need 2 of these] on the diagram here: www.hondapartsunlimited.com/auto-parts/2001/honda/passport/engine/thermostat-piping/?trim=4ex&engine=4-speed-automatic)
-Fuel pressure regulator (shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-intermotor-fuel-pressure-regulator-23044/18470616-P?navigationPath=L1*14932%7CL2*14985%7CL3*15355)
I also replaced various vacuum lines as necessary, but I would wait until you tear everything down so you can inspect these and determine which ones need replacing, if any. I do recommend replacing the soft coolant lines that connect underneath the intake manifold; one of these started to leak about a year ago, which was the reason a mechanic had to remove the manifold, which is how that stupid hose clamp got inside and made me film this series of videos....so anyway, you may as well replace these lines while you have the manifold off, because they will start to leak eventually and you don't want to do this project any more than you have to.
I am probably forgetting something, but I think that's about it. If I remember anything else, I'll post it. Let me know if you get into it and get stumped by something....I have a bunch of still photos that I took that I can post or send if you need help.
Good luck!
I did this job today. I needed to replace the thermostat on my 2002. Luckily I work at a car dealership and have the shop at my disposal, including the technicians tools. We’re still a beast of a job. But it’s back together now Next weekend is valve cover gasket, spark plugs, tube seals, and coils.
Then next Sunday, time to wrap it!
I really appreciated your work, effort and selflessness to create this series. Others also commented on courage to attack this project . I am considering removing the intake manifold because of a vacuum leak under the throttle body exposed by propane test. My 99 trooper has a check engine light and I have replaced a list of parts starting with cleaning the MAS then throttle body gasket starting the list. I did do the water pump , timing belt, and valve cover gaskets. I also learned to hate the isuzu engineers. I referred to your videos then, too. I will do the thermostat job too , when I get the nerve and gumption to attempt it. Thanks
Your videos have helped me alot with doing my own maintenance on my 04 rodeo
That is great to hear! I'm so glad you have found them helpful. Thanks for watching!
I learned a lot from you Matt! Thanks for these 5 GREAT videos! Keep up the great work!
Thanks my dude. I have my brother trooper which looks to be the same engine. But my brother died this past summer and im fianlly getting into his ride which we used together for hunting and fishing trips. It needs alot of work and this will definitely make it easy. No one around my area wants to work on it so I've taken it upon myself to save this
Hi Matt
I'm here in the UK (Yorkshire) with a Vauxhall Frontera, same as your Isuzu Rodeo, and HAVE to do an engine swap on it as there's a bottom end knock and I'm not about to do a full engine rebuild on it! I'm a qualified mechanic 30 years ago but now scared & doubting myself as things are HUGELY different!
I just wanted to say a BIG BIG BIG thank you for these five posts on removing the intake manifold as I now know that without doing this, I won't be able to get in to remove the top bell housing bolts. The job just keeps getting scarier and more involved but I suppose at least I do have the replacement engine already here to practice on before the main event!
During this job, I'm making vids (but could probably be better) which I hope might highlight something during the process that could help someone. The engine is a "6VD1W" but the replacement engine I'm not sure about. The wiring, manifold & wiring are all different. I'm stripping it down "Off-Video" as everything from the existing car needs to be brought across before the transplant.....
My main point (sorry for waffling on) is that I'm SOOOOO grateful for your efforts previously and I hope you might keep an eye on what I'm doing and maybe offer some advice along the way as I go? Some of my vids/uploads might be a bit off-track but I love this SUV and really want to get it all done before this Unseasonal great weather here in the UK comes to an end ...Subscribe maybe? Let me know your thoughts or suggestions?
Lee
I just spent 11 hours doing this same tare down for the same problem. the o-ring on the heater core pipe off the back of the water manifold rusted through and blew. im not done fixing this but you showed me how it all comes apart. thank you
Nice work, Jared! I'm sorry you had that issue, but you should be very proud of yourself for figuring out how to repair it yourself! I hope your truck is running well now. Thanks for watching!
Great series of videos on the intake manifold/thermostat/valve cover maintenance. After watching it several times and taking notes along the way, I'm ready to do the same to my 1998 Honda Passport with 190,000 miles. Wish me luck !!!
Gregory Dallape Thanks, Gregory! This project is really not that hard, so hopefully with the visual aid of these videos, you'll knock it out in no time! I know for sure that if I did it again, I could probably do it in 50-75% of the time it took the first go-round, simply because I wouldn't be seeing things for the first time. Best of luck, and let me know if you have any questions along the way....I try to check comments every few days.
Thanks for watching!
Hi Matt. I gave the project a try today. Everything went smoothly until I came to removing the EGR tube from the bottom section of the intake manifold. Your video mentioned using an adjustable wrench. I wanted to ask if the threads turn in the normal counterclockwise direction to loosen. I definitely need to find a proper wrench. Other than that all went without surprises. I didn't have the problem you had with the fuel pressure regulator cover and that tight fitting bolt up against the firewall. The last guy who removed decided to leave it out. If you have any suggestions on how to loosen that tube..I'm all ears. Thank you for all the attention.
Gregory Dallape Hi Gregory, I'm glad to hear you made good progress! Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. I am 99% sure that the flared connection on the EGR tube leading down to the exhaust manifold has normal threads, meaning they un-thread in a counter-clockwise direction. My adjustable wrench worked, but BARELY, and I was only able to turn it a couple of degrees with each turn before I had to reposition it. A crow's foot style wrench would probably be a better way to go....particularly a ratcheting-type one like this:
ua-cam.com/video/dDyScQP4eLg/v-deo.html
Since I didn't have one of those, I just made do with what I had...but it was painstaking.
Good luck with the rest of your project! Feel free to let me know if you have any more questions. I have a bunch of still photos from my project that occasionally come in handy, too.
Funny, I too have a 98 Honda Passport with 190k, and needing to do this project. Ditto on the great series of videos! Looking to tackle soon.
I'm getting the P0507 code, Higher than expected idle, I've replaced the Idle Air Control Valve and the EGR Valve and tried to clean, without excessive removal, each areas...but the issue I'm having is that (usually in cold weather conditions) after prolonged speeds of 50-70 MPH I get a flashing check transmission light and a check engine light. The codes for both are the P0507. Along with the flashing I get very hard transmission shifting, but once I pull over shut the engine off and restart the shifting is back to normal and the flashing transmission light is gone. My (poorly constructed) theory is that due to the engine RPM issue (idle air control valve sticking from the build up of residue) the transmission shifting is affected. You all got a better theory? Had a similar issue?
Either way I know that the cleaning can't hurt!...and I'm hoping will fix the issue.
Andrew Davis Hmm....I've never had that code, but it sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. Check out this thread:
forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=48699&p=401240&hilit=P0507#p401240
One very knowledgeable poster suggested to check/replace the PCV valve, since that is an inexpensive and easy part to replace. If your PCV has failed, you essentially have a vacuum leak, which will make the engine idle differently than the computer expects it to idle, since un-measured air is entering the intake via the leak rather than past the mass airflow sensor. If your PCV checks out OK, then I would look for a broken vacuum hose, or worst case scenario, a failed intake manifold gasket. You could check for such a problem by spraying some carb cleaner around the intake and vacuum hoses to see if the engine idle changes. If the idle does change, you'll know that some of the carb cleaner is getting "inhaled" via the leak. If you have to replace your intake manifold, well...now you know how!
Of course, I could be totally wrong about all of that. You are wise to suspect the Idle Air Control Valve, but since you've already replaced it once and you still have the problem, it makes me believe there is something else at play.
Thanks for watching, and best of luck. Let me know what you find out. I'm always trying to gain more knowledge so I will know what to do if I ever have a similar problem!
Great videos! I'm thinking about doing my valve cover gaskets because I'm leaking. But I'm also fixing to hit 200k, so I'm wondering whether or not to tackle the timing belts, too. Thanks for the info!
Matt, thanks for the great videos! This helped me tremendously. I especially like the points about the hidden fuel line clamps.
You're very welcome, Barry! I'm always glad to hear that one of my videos was helpful. Thanks for your kind words!
Such an awesome video! Very well done, will be using this as a guide when I do thermostat and valve cover gasket replacement next weekend! Thank you for this.
+OFF2theGYM Thanks, I hope it will help you! Let me know how it goes.
Do you know how the throttle position screw is supposed to be positioned?
Excellent video, you just make my life much much easier Matt, thanks!
I feel for you I took mine down to the bare block and number 6 cylinder appeared to have a crack redone the heads and cleaned out the egr got it back together and it ran great is there a part 4 showing how you got the clamp out of the valve it went from 3 to Part 5
Thanks for the video, i can now remove the intake manifold and clean it out to get rid of my EGR insufficient flow code. Will also change the thermostat as you did.
Happy to have helped, Allen! I'm glad you found this useful. Thanks for watching, and good luck. Let me know how it goes.
Hi Matt, I am following your videos for the intake manifold removal and didn't see a Part 4 to this series. Do you have a part four that covers the valve cover removal and fix?
ua-cam.com/video/ju0ZObvPM-I/v-deo.htmlsi=ZAsI7--7K2WGZXNd
Good morning Matt. 2000 Trooper over here in NC. Anyway, ALL of your Isuzu videos have been very helpful!!! Thank You! So, I do have a question. The butterfly accuator valve located on the back DS of the intake manifold. Do you know how to remove it? If so would you care to share? I have placed both halves in the parts washer being careful not to submerge this particular part. All other electronics were reoved beforehand. Thank you for your time. Mark
Great stuff man. You sure have balls of steel. I have an Isuzu Trooper that burns oil like crazy...need new value seals. I might attempt this. Keep it up.
Thanks! Haha....I'm not sure how brave I am...I just didn't have many alternatives. It was either drop $500-$1000 and have a mechanic do the job, or just try it myself first and see what happened. I figured the worst case scenario would be me getting halfway into it and getting totally stumped, and having to get it towed to a mechanic.
In the end, I'm really glad I did this on my own. I cared about doing it correctly way more than a mechanic probably would (as evidenced by the freaking hose clamp I found inside the engine!), and I gained some really valuable knowledge along the way.
The 3.5L Trooper engines are notorious for burning oil....something to do with the drainback holes in the piston rings getting clogged up. I've read that people have had good luck with using Shell Rotella oil (which is actually a diesel oil but is safe to use with gas engines) because it has a higher detergent content and can help clear these drainback holes over time. I just started running Rotella in my Rodeo recently because it was using some oil, too, so I'm hoping to see some benefit soon. I've also read that some people have actually reduced the oil-burning issue by soaking their cylinders with Sea Foam by pulling the spark plugs and pouring enough Sea Foam into each spark plug hole to cover the cylinder. Then they suck it out after a day or two and replace the plugs. I haven't tried this procedure....but I may consider doing it in the future.
Good luck with your Trooper. Just keep an eye on the oil level and you should be fine.
Very helpful. I just picked up a '94 Rodeo at an auction. it runs good, but is loosing water underneath the intake manifold. I'm pretty sure it is a hose, but can't see exactly. I was afraid i was going to have to remove the whole thing and now i know. thx.
BLOODstorm Cool, congrats on your "new" purchase! That hose under the intake manifold is notorious for leaking, so that's probably what's going on. I'd definitely recommend changing the thermostat, too while you're at it.
Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Hey Matt, if I'm looking to JUST replace the intake manifold gaskets and thermostat, do I need to follow everything you did?
Awesome work!
Thanks a lot!
How did getting the fuel rail bolts back in go? Skipped that struggle fest
Thank you for making such a great video. It has helped me out so much. Take care buddy.
Bobby Vinton Thanks Bobby! I'm really glad you found this helpful. Thanks for watching!
Do u notice a connector while u had the intake off that may have been unplugged
oh you did a good job. I realized it was worn fuel injector o-rings, not the vacuum lines.
Cool, glad you figured out your issue. Thanks for watching!
OK Matt, I basically followed all your videos (GREAT HELP!!), I put everything back together, but at the end I am left with just one thing (UGHHHH) On the back on the back of the Intake Manifold, there are the 2 vacuum hoses you said would be good to have ready... Well I did that, installed everything ,, Attached one hose to the Fuel Regulator, However, its the other one (that comes off what appears to be some kind of actuator).. I just can't remember where it goes.... This is all I have left, and I am finally finished. Really would appreciate your help on this... THANKS!!!!
jeff Kruichak Jeff, so sorry for just now getting around to checking comments....sorry for leaving you hanging. Funny story - I actually discovered that I forgot to re-connect one of those very same vacuum lines after my repair. The one you are referencing connects to the diaphragm that controls the engine braking butterfly valves - there is one that is in each intake manifold "runner" that act to restrict airflow when the vehicle senses it is traveling downhill, and thus uses the resistance of the engine to help prevent acceleration so that you do not have to use your brakes excessively. At least, that is my dumbed-down understanding of how the system works.
Anyway, as far as where that hose goes, I believe it should connect to the "vacuum switching valve" near the fuel pressure regulator. I just went out and snapped a couple of photos of this connection on my vehicle. I hope this helps:
www.brinkleys.org/users/tsl/Files/20141003_191926.jpg
www.brinkleys.org/users/tsl/Files/20141003_191939.jpg
thanks friend for your tip 4:40 that help me a lot
I know after 8 years, this is wishful thinking... BUT, do you have any still shots of the vacuum lines running to what you have labeled "VSV" vacuum switching valve? There are 3 ports and I didn't label them (actually one has a vacuum cap on it, which probably shouldn't be). The bracket you fought with isn't even on mine, so I'm sure it was "molested/bubba'd" in years past by previous owner.
Thanks...Great Videos! Wish I had viewed PRIOR to completing!
Hi Donovan, I actually do have a bunch of photos from that project. Try the link below to see if this shows what you're looking for:
www.dropbox.com/s/gm9a32hb6hn3hck/20140113_165643-1.jpg?dl=0
If not, let me know and I will see if I can dig up some more.
Thanks for watching!
@@mattpayne4087 Thanks so much... that did help. I had a 50/50 shot with those two hoses and had them reversed. Strangely, my "VSS" (2003 model) has a third port on the opposite end that has a vacuum cap on it. Wasn't sure if a hose connected to that or if a previous owner just capped it off because they didn't know what went there! Anyway, your pic and at 2:43 of Part 1 shows yours just has 2 ports, so maybe it's for an option I don't have or just really isn't needed (emissions-related???). Until my "check engine" light comes on, I'm not going to worry about it!!
Thanks again... GREAT video / tutorial.
I just purchased a 2001 Rodeo 4WD.... and I followed all your Great help on replacing the thermostat...It was a job, but got it. Anyways, I was wondering if you had any insight on replacing the waterpump.
jeff Kruichak Thanks for watching, Jeff - I'm glad my videos were able to be of assistance! I have not actually tackled the water pump myself, but I would sign up at www.planetisuzoo.com (it's free) and then use the search function to see what information you can find there. If you can't find what you're looking for, just post a question and I am sure some very knowledgeable folks will help you in whatever way they can. That forum is how I have learned everything I know how to do on my Isuzu (which admittedly is not all that much...but I'm still learning). I'm sorry I can't offer more direct help, but I hope I've at least pointed you in the right direction. Good luck!
cual es el nombre de las 3 juntas?
I can't believe you showed us everything but the vacuum connections...AWWW
Which vacuum connections are you referring to? I thought I showed most every step in the video series, but I have a few still photos that I can share if there is something in particular you need to see. Just let me know.
Did this end up fixing your misfire issue? I'm chasing down the same issue
Is the knock sensor under the intake manifold?
Michael, are you referring to the 6VD1 engine?
Matt Payne yes
Michael, sorry for my slow response....the knock sensor is actually part of the Ignition Control Module and is located on top of the intake manifold. It is my understanding that most related problems are not the module itself, but are due to some sort of issue causing a misfire. Do you have any check engine codes present?
im about to pull the supercharger off my 3.5, need to replace one of those rubber fuel lines under the intake, mine blew out and got fuel everywhere!
did you use rtv on the intake gasket?
I did not - I just cleaned the metal surfaces on the block and intake and set the gasket straight onto the block.
Brian Recher Never use RTV ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD
i have a 99 rodeo and i replaced the thermostat on it, hooked everything back up. and when i turn the key, the engine sounds like its misfiring, it backfires and it will not idle.. i really hope i didnt mess anything up. do you have any ideas about what i could've done wrong or whats wrong with it? Thank you. PS i love your vids
+STEAL7H I'm sorry to hear you're having that issue following your repair. Did you remove the intake manifold to get to the thermostat? And do you have any trouble codes associated with your current misfiring issue? It could be something simple like a coil pack or fuel injector not being connected. I'd check for codes first, and then start double-checking all of your wiring connections.
Good luck! Let me know if you get it figured out. Thanks for watching!
does the fuel regulator returns into what? mine is leaking fuel.
I could be wrong, but I don't believe there is a return line.
My rodeo was leaking fuel from what I was told was the fuel return line. The hose looked like it had a blow out, and a crack on the end where it connected to the fuel pressure regulator. Pain in the ass to replace, as it is between that bracket and the fire wall, behind the intake!
Great video matt, very clear and very well done.. What camera do you have, its pretty clear and focuses pretty well.
Thanks! I actually filmed this entire series with the camera on my Samsung Galaxy S4 phone....I'm pretty impressed with its abilities. It struggles mightily in low light, but in daylight it takes some really clear video.
Thanks for watching!
No shit... I film all my stuff with my iphone 5s and I think it sucks. Thinking about getting a real camera so I'm asking around..
Musher Deeds Yeah I've been really impressed with the S4 overall. The camera is fantastic, and the phone itself is really good, too. Sadly, my S4 got smashed the other day when it fell off my belt clip :-( I got a replacement today and spent hours setting it up. Ugh.
Now, if you're just looking for a camera only, I've heard that the Go Pro cameras are incredible. I've never gotten to use one, but the video I've seen from them on UA-cam is insanely clear.
How much is the value of 1999 Rodeo with 230k with the same problem ''Thermo''?
Chris, that totally depends on your location. And, what exactly is your issue with thermostat? Is it stuck open? Is the vehicle driveable? What is the overall condition? I can't really tell you what the vehicle is worth, but I would enter your information into www.kbb.com and see what you get. The cost of the repair is probably about $500 if you pay a shop, or simply the cost of the thermostat and whatever gaskets you decide to replace if you do it yourself (maybe $30-$50).
Would you do it again if you had to?
Bobby Vinton Bobby, I definitely would, especially since now I think I could do it much more efficiently. If you've watched this video series and are considering doing this repair on your own, I definitely encourage you to do so if you have the patience, tools, and just a little bit of skill. You can definitely do it. If you get stumped, feel free to send me a message...I have a bunch of still photos that I took during my process that may be of assistance. I'm no expert, but I'll be happy to help any way that I can.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks a bunch man
After watching this and my experience over the years of mechanics doing the wrong thing I believe most cars faults and issues are caused by dodgy mechanics. I think your best off trying to learn your own car inside and out and keeping a good maintenance record of your own to make your vehicle last.
wheres part 4
ua-cam.com/video/ju0ZObvPM-I/v-deo.html
Where the hell is part 4
All the links are in the video description. 🤷♂️
ua-cam.com/video/ju0ZObvPM-I/v-deo.html
Hopefully the quality of the O-ring you lubricated with vaseline is typical Isuzu quality, as it might last longer than ordinary rubber. NEVER use vaseline on rubber - it eats it. Use rubber grease instead.
+Gerhard Petersen Gerhard, great point - I realized this error after the fact. As you said, hopefully my o-ring is of good quality and will last a while. I should edit my video to make this revision, though. Thanks a lot for pointing this out.
mumkn sier muharik asuzu trubar 2001
Check out this channel: northwestern2002...pretty helpful info for your rodeo.
Yeah that channel is awesome! I learned how to change the fuel filter from his videos. I need to subscribe to him....
How did getting the fuel rail bolts back in go? Skipped that struggle fest