Incredibly helpful video. There's a lot of videos out there where they don't actually explain what you're doing when you're adjusting the tv cable. Just being able to see the valve like that immediately made the whole system make sense for me.
the best explanation of tv cable adjustment. thank you! i wish i saw this one 200r4 ago. i would also like to add for viewers to make sure that your pedal is achieving wot. if you did the adjustment by flooring your pedal, do a hand wot after. if the cable ratches then your pedal is not achieving wot. your cable could be binding, your floor has too much padding, the tv cable geometry could be wrong etc. if the trans is not stock to your car, you need to use a tv cable corrector bracket kit. if there isn’t available for your application, google tv cable geometry and make sure your cable is getting the correct angle pull.
Well done, very clear. My '68 Camaro with TH700r4 decided to stop upshifting on the way back from a cruise yesterday. I think I've got the cause narrowed down now to either the TV cable tension or the transmission governor. Many thanks from Australia.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. Working on an 89 Pontiac Trans Am GTA...that wont shift from first to second...will definitely check this TV cable issue.
I learned the hard way...by damaging my tranny the first time I installed a 700r4. Live and learn...now I do all my adjustments..with the pan off the tranny, where I can visually see what the plunger is doing. Mark the cable at the carb and replace the tranny pan...fill with trans oil....GOOD TO GO !!
Thanks for this video explanation. This is one of the ASE test question I answered wrong because didn’t understand how it works. Thanks again, it’s really,really,really helpful…
I'm glad you made this video. I'm looking at a GMC with a 700R4 and I am to understand that this could be a problem. Please let me know if this is a concern on 700R4's thanks . Your pal, Phillip the third.
“Novice here”. I seen some people add a spring on the carb/throttle body side. Because the piston inside the valve body with bottom out before the throttle plates open up. Any truth to this?? Larry
Great video , I am doing exactly what you are doing , but the valve can slide in and out by 1/4 before it touches the return spring , should the cam be just against the valve like you show at point where the spring resistance starts ? Or is it pushed all the way out by fluid pressure. Thanks in advance Rob Campbell
have you tried comparing it with a newer plunger spring? from my understanding of this video, it's better to have the lever preloading the plunger a little bit as oppose to not touching it at all at idle if that's your only option.
even after pulling the cable connector seperated from the throttle body connector // after fully pulling extending the end all the way i spotted the c6 "downshift valve" with borescope only going 3/4 of the way, i do not have any play to make a full valve connect all the way in ?? i dont know what to do except maybe running it 3/4way in and taking it easy on the driving // any suggestions
i saw that when you push the throttle the ratchet did not come out. i have same situation. in manual sad that you should release the button and rotate the lever but the ratchet does not come out.
David Mckale ..I called my mechanic to assist with my 94 chevy he came told me a bunch of crap...... he's going to be unemployed after I send this message lol
Mine when i replaced it wont downshift and rides out rpms and wont slow down at all when i take foot off the gas i alwayd have to use the brakes what did i do wrong i replaced the kickdown cable and throttle cable to pedal
After seeing your video, i understood my trany problem, mine is stuck, now one question, if it's stuck, do i need too rebuild all those parts inside? Or just add something to set it free and get it back to work like it suppose to? Ill appreciate if you help me, Thank you
My 1st 2nd shift is about 10 mpr. I know it needs to be somewhere between 15 an 20 mpr depending on the videos I watch. Witch way do I need to adjust the piece that goes in an out on the line?
the tv cable is self adjusting. if you WOT by hand, the tv cable will automatically ratchet to the proper length. however, you have to also make sure that your gas pedal will also extend the tv cable at same length. sometimes the pedal doesn’t travel far enough to pull the tv cable properly.
I have a 1991 C1500 silverado. 350 /700r4 trans. TBI SET UP I think my cable is set right from pushing the plunger all the way back then pressed my gas to the floor. Problem is It shifts into what feels like 4TH/OD but all b4 you get to 28 30 mph and then keep going up to 55 60 but it dont shift out then to what should be od at that speed. I have put a new Gov. New VSS Sensor, New brake switch Tried a new cable, changed fluid and filter and nothing changed. Its fine if you want to cluck around 40 45 but I wouldnt want to ride it on the interstate like this. You can tell at 55 60 it needs that one more shift and rpms to go down somewhat. So with all that done. No change, So I unhooked the tv cable from the carb. and tried it just for a mile or so and even then it made no change in the way it had been shifting. Same thing. You would think that should have made a big or some difference in the shifting part with the tv cable unhooked from the carb. completely. I need Help... Ps while riding after it has went to od at 30 35 i can hold my foot on the gas while pressing lightly on the brake and you can fell it unlocking/rpms rise a little and I also dont have passing gear. It will kick back down to 3rd while pressing the gas to say go up a small hill then shift out as u let off the gas but still no passing gear. All Help Appreciated. I dont know what else to do. Its my only ride so i need some help. Even used Lucas Transmission when i changed fluid and filter. I just need some Help here...
Exactly what I've been searching for 5to6 months! Hundreds wasted on douche bags to adjust it wrong because the last owner didn't have it right either! But please tell me where in the heck did you get that beast looking tv cable/ detent cable ! It's way thicker and had a wide face ! My actuator hinge deal is thin and crappy looking ? I'm referring to the metal peice that contacts the throttle valve plunger at the end of the tv cable in the transmission. Thanks again!
Actually that was the starting point: no slack at idle, and full travel at full throttle. Then he shows under/over adjustments. Since I'm not a transmission guy I only have one question: what kind of transmissions have this arrangement?
it looks like from pausing the video at 0:20 mark and comparing it to completely away at 0:48 that it is depressed a fraction at idle. I am trying to get my set up with a inline 6 single barrel carb and i dont have the luxury of regular 4 barrel carb setup. i did some math and think i have the stroke length of the cable the same as the recommended technical setup and when the gas pedal is fully depressed i am short about the same amount from fully depressed as the difference mentioned above. Hopefully Steve will come back and comment on this.
@@bgthemighty6714 you’re supposed to use a tv cable geometry corrector bracket when using a 2004r/700r4. you’re not supposed to hook up the tv cable on the kickdowb stud on your throttle arm. i’m not sure if there’s a kit available for single barrels but google tv cable geometry and there’s a diagram that shows what angle of the cable pull you should be getting from idle to wot. it’s 78 degrees with center of the throttle shaft as the pivot point.
So I broke that little plastic peace that connects to the throttle body I can't just cut a slit in a bolt to hold it down ,I'd probably have to replace the cable wouldn't i
On another note...my 69 Elco had the original throttle cable. The cable over the years became stretched...replace it with a new one. I would recommend checking your throttle cable...before you make any adjustments to your TV cable...just saying.
Push the adjuster button in, and push the plastic slider all the way back into the cable housing. Then open the throttle wide open and it will pull the slider out the appropriate amount. Do this by hand, not with the gas pedal.
@@thelostmachine713 because the slack in the pedal linkage along with pedal stops will not allow enough travel. Moving the throttle by hand avoids any possible issues with linkage
@@thelostmachine713 Disconnect the TV cable and all springs.Now just throttle cable is in effect.Mash the footpedal to the floor,place a heavy brick on it and adjust MAX WOT to match full cable travel.
Typically the hard shifts will occur because the cable is too tight. As he stated it won’t hurt the transmission being too tight, but too loose will burn it up quick
Depends on the transmission and how far off it is from where it is supposed to be. Worse case is if the cable isn't even connected. The trans wont last a week.
@@killer2600 You're right. Put my T bird back on the road after sitting for 9 years. Took it for a test drive down the road, about 45 miles round trip. No hills to speak of, pretty much flat ground. 45 to 50 mph the whole trip. Halfway through, noticed rpm was too high, car would pick up speed, even with no throttle. Pulled over, looked at throttle body for binding linkage. Noticed tv cable was disconnected, clip missing. This was blocking the throttle lever from closing fully. Just layed it out of the way, drove home, not knowing any better. I thought the only consequence would be failure to downshift if I tried to find "passing gear". Tried to drive it to work the next day, when I got on the interstate, the trans started slipping at 3/4 throttle, fluid was really dark the next day. Then saw this video while searching for cable bushing and clip. 🙄 Learned my lesson the hard way.
2 years into messing with my AOD... and I finally found this!! Thank you sir, proving once more... All heros do not wear capes!
How do you know he's not wearing a cape?
Also can set with a line pressure gauge, a littletool from OTC tools ,Follow ford procedure.
This is the best explanation on UA-cam! Seeing what's happening inside the transmission is invaluable to understanding how the TV cable works.
Incredibly helpful video. There's a lot of videos out there where they don't actually explain what you're doing when you're adjusting the tv cable. Just being able to see the valve like that immediately made the whole system make sense for me.
Thanks, this really helps to see what the actual effect of the cable's tension is doing inside the valve body.
Thanks, like and subscribe.
the best explanation of tv cable adjustment. thank you! i wish i saw this one 200r4 ago. i would also like to add for viewers to make sure that your pedal is achieving wot. if you did the adjustment by flooring your pedal, do a hand wot after. if the cable ratches then your pedal is not achieving wot. your cable could be binding, your floor has too much padding, the tv cable geometry could be wrong etc. if the trans is not stock to your car, you need to use a tv cable corrector bracket kit. if there isn’t available for your application, google tv cable geometry and make sure your cable is getting the correct angle pull.
Well done, very clear. My '68 Camaro with TH700r4 decided to stop upshifting on the way back from a cruise yesterday. I think I've got the cause narrowed down now to either the TV cable tension or the transmission governor. Many thanks from Australia.
You have no idea how useful this was for me, thank you!!
Thank you so very much for the information. You are awesome! Straight to the point. No messing around. Love it!
You deserve a medal of merit for this thank you so much bud 🤘
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. Working on an 89 Pontiac Trans Am GTA...that wont shift from first to second...will definitely check this TV cable issue.
Wait my dad comments on stuff?
Wow
Very helpful got an 82 trans am working it out now
You’re awesome for posting this!
best video yet on 700r4 tv cable adjusting, thanks
Finally outstanding information !!! Tx from the Netherlands.
I learned the hard way...by damaging my tranny the first time I installed a 700r4. Live and learn...now
I do all my adjustments..with the pan off the tranny, where I can visually see what the plunger is doing. Mark the cable at the carb and replace the tranny pan...fill with trans oil....GOOD TO GO !!
Great video. Simple and straight to it. Thank you sir.
great demo on the cable adjustment especially showing a visual with the pan off. thank you
This really helped a lot - thanks! Now I can tune the governor how I want it knowing the TV cable is properly set.
Thanks man. That’s a great demo and explanation.
Thanks for this video explanation. This is one of the ASE test question I answered wrong because didn’t understand how it works. Thanks again, it’s really,really,really helpful…
Thanks man .This is the best info I have found .
Best video and explanation I've come across! Thanks
Pretty good video thanks, I was wondering what is the function of the bar that travels in and out ?? Controls oil pressure or what it does?
hello stevet thanks for this video. but how do one adjust or calibrate the kickdown cable?
Great clear video! Now I can see what a cobbled together mess the previous owner left me on mine.
Great video and excellent visual representation! Thumbs up to you!
this is the explanation i been looking for!! thank you!!
I'm glad you made this video.
I'm looking at a GMC with a
700R4 and I am to understand that this could be a problem.
Please let me know if this is a concern on 700R4's thanks .
Your pal, Phillip the third.
Thanks that really explains a bunch.
I NEED THAT BRACKET WHERE THE CABLE HOOKS UP TO ON THE TRANSMISSION SIDE
as a person who learns by visual of how things work, i thank you
“Novice here”. I seen some people add a spring on the carb/throttle body side.
Because the piston inside the valve body with bottom out before the throttle plates open up.
Any truth to this??
Larry
Does this apply to all transmission models?
Ur absolutely amazing 🤩
What transmission are we looking at? Is this adjustment the same on a GM 200-4R?
Thx for the vid man, wish I Did this yesterday when i had the pan off hahaha
Great video. Thank you!
Wow! This video made it click. I went out and adjusted mine and it shifts like a brand new one now and I finally have passing gear!
Thanks Steve V! Have a good day
Great video , I am doing exactly what you are doing , but the valve can slide in and out by 1/4 before it touches the return spring , should the cam be just against the valve like you show at point where the spring resistance starts ? Or is it pushed all the way out by fluid pressure.
Thanks in advance
Rob Campbell
I was wondering the same thing...this guy didn't answer..did you find an answer anywhere else??
have you tried comparing it with a newer plunger spring? from my understanding of this video, it's better to have the lever preloading the plunger a little bit as oppose to not touching it at all at idle if that's your only option.
could you respond as to "correct" setting would be? or did I miss that? I only heard to loose or too tight. Whats just right? thanks
even after pulling the cable connector seperated from the throttle body connector // after fully pulling extending the end all the way i spotted the c6 "downshift valve" with borescope only going 3/4 of the way, i do not have any play to make a full valve connect all the way in ?? i dont know what to do except maybe running it 3/4way in and taking it easy on the driving // any suggestions
if this is adjusted incorrectly, could it cause 98 jeep aw4 to grind going into park while in 4low ?
Couldn’t be explained better thanks
Wow thank you so much great presentation by the way
Makes sense now, thanks good video.
Outstanding! I get it now.
i saw that when you push the throttle the ratchet did not come out. i have same situation. in manual sad that you should release the button and rotate the lever but the ratchet does not come out.
Exactly what i needed to see
David Mckale ..I called my mechanic to assist with my 94 chevy he came told me a bunch of crap...... he's going to be unemployed after I send this message lol
Mine when i replaced it wont downshift and rides out rpms and wont slow down at all when i take foot off the gas i alwayd have to use the brakes what did i do wrong i replaced the kickdown cable and throttle cable to pedal
After seeing your video, i understood my trany problem, mine is stuck, now one question, if it's stuck, do i need too rebuild all those parts inside? Or just add something to set it free and get it back to work like it suppose to? Ill appreciate if you help me, Thank you
Great video thank you.
What does the tv cable do? Ive been told that if its not set right it can burn the trans up so quick you may not even make it through the test drive.
Mine has a lot of slack will this make my truck stay at first gear high rev
My 1st 2nd shift is about 10 mpr. I know it needs to be somewhere between 15 an 20 mpr depending on the videos I watch. Witch way do I need to adjust the piece that goes in an out on the line?
the tv cable is self adjusting. if you WOT by hand, the tv cable will automatically ratchet to the proper length. however, you have to also make sure that your gas pedal will also extend the tv cable at same length. sometimes the pedal doesn’t travel far enough to pull the tv cable properly.
I have a 1991 C1500 silverado. 350 /700r4 trans. TBI SET UP I think my cable is set right from pushing the plunger all the way back then pressed my gas to the floor. Problem is It shifts into what feels like 4TH/OD but all b4 you get to 28 30 mph and then keep going up to 55 60 but it dont shift out then to what should be od at that speed. I have put a new Gov. New VSS Sensor, New brake switch Tried a new cable, changed fluid and filter and nothing changed. Its fine if you want to cluck around 40 45 but I wouldnt want to ride it on the interstate like this. You can tell at 55 60 it needs that one more shift and rpms to go down somewhat. So with all that done. No change, So I unhooked the tv cable from the carb. and tried it just for a mile or so and even then it made no change in the way it had been shifting. Same thing. You would think that should have made a big or some difference in the shifting part with the tv cable unhooked from the carb. completely. I need Help... Ps while riding after it has went to od at 30 35 i can hold my foot on the gas while pressing lightly on the brake and you can fell it unlocking/rpms rise a little and I also dont have passing gear. It will kick back down to 3rd while pressing the gas to say go up a small hill then shift out as u let off the gas but still no passing gear. All Help Appreciated. I dont know what else to do. Its my only ride so i need some help. Even used Lucas Transmission when i changed fluid and filter. I just need some Help here...
when you unhooked the tv then drove for a mile you were shifting manually right?
Thank you, great teacher.
Me learn how now adjust right
Does the plunger have to be all the way in the valve body? Mine stick out about 1/4 inch after full throttle.
yes. if the plunger is pushed a little at idle, that’s fine as long as it’s all the way in at wot. you will burn your trans the way it is right now.
Awesome video
Exactly what I've been searching for 5to6 months! Hundreds wasted on douche bags to adjust it wrong because the last owner didn't have it right either!
But please tell me where in the heck did you get that beast looking tv cable/ detent cable ! It's way thicker and had a wide face ! My actuator hinge deal is thin and crappy looking ? I'm referring to the metal peice that contacts the throttle valve plunger at the end of the tv cable in the transmission.
Thanks again!
Amazing video. Are you sure having it too tight won't cause any other problems?
Having it a little loose is best for soft shifting too tight will make trans bang ....
Excellent video, thank you for taking the time to make this!
Is that for the 700r4
Very helpful!
Thats a great video, but can you show how to adjust the cable to carburetor with the pan off. Thanks in advance
Its exactly the same
Thanks much 🇯🇲✌ well explained
Excellent....👍
very cool vid!
This might sound like a dumb question, but I'm not 100% sure. My question is do you need to re adjust the TV cable after you installed a shift kit?
no. if it shifts fine before and you didn’t mess with the adjustment when you removed the trans then you’re good.
Excellent info
Seems easier with the pan off thanks
Where's the valve body suppose to be at regular drive throttle.
So my bronco seems to have really hard shifts and sometimes gets stuck at certain rpm’s then it’ll jerk and shift. Could this be a possible problem ?
Loosen the cable a little for soft shift....
Awesome vid but giving us a rough idea as to where it should sit would have made this video 10/10.
Actually that was the starting point: no slack at idle, and full travel at full throttle. Then he shows under/over adjustments. Since I'm not a transmission guy I only have one question: what kind of transmissions have this arrangement?
Flinch 700r4, 200-4R
Thank you 🙏🏼
So at idle, the bracket arm, just touches the rod correct, it does not push the rod?
it looks like from pausing the video at 0:20 mark and comparing it to completely away at 0:48 that it is depressed a fraction at idle. I am trying to get my set up with a inline 6 single barrel carb and i dont have the luxury of regular 4 barrel carb setup. i did some math and think i have the stroke length of the cable the same as the recommended technical setup and when the gas pedal is fully depressed i am short about the same amount from fully depressed as the difference mentioned above. Hopefully Steve will come back and comment on this.
a little push on the plunger is fine as long as the bracket arm is not floating above the plunger.
@@bgthemighty6714 you’re supposed to use a tv cable geometry corrector bracket when using a 2004r/700r4. you’re not supposed to hook up the tv cable on the kickdowb stud on your throttle arm. i’m not sure if there’s a kit available for single barrels but google tv cable geometry and there’s a diagram that shows what angle of the cable pull you should be getting from idle to wot. it’s 78 degrees with center of the throttle shaft as the pivot point.
Perfect!
So I broke that little plastic peace that connects to the throttle body I can't just cut a slit in a bolt to hold it down ,I'd probably have to replace the cable wouldn't i
Wow that was awesome, way better than the other guy who just rambled on about a bunch of BS that made no sense and didn't show how it work
Mine shift soft when in drive almost as if slipping..but firm when in manual shift
you might wanna also double check that your pedal WOT is the same as hand WOT
On another note...my 69 Elco had the original throttle cable.
The cable over the years became stretched...replace it with a new one. I would recommend checking your throttle cable...before you make any adjustments to your TV cable...just saying.
Good vid
Thx u ....
So that's why it shifts super damn hard
Is there a way to accurately adjust it without taking the pan off?
Push the adjuster button in, and push the plastic slider all the way back into the cable housing. Then open the throttle wide open and it will pull the slider out the appropriate amount. Do this by hand, not with the gas pedal.
@@cutl00senc can you please explain why you open the throttle by hand rather than the gas pedal? Thanks!
@@thelostmachine713 because the slack in the pedal linkage along with pedal stops will not allow enough travel. Moving the throttle by hand avoids any possible issues with linkage
If your pedal WOT doesn't match the hand WOT then you have to fix your pedal.
@@thelostmachine713 Disconnect the TV cable and all springs.Now just throttle cable is in effect.Mash the footpedal to the floor,place a heavy brick on it and adjust MAX WOT to match full cable travel.
Man wish I seen this video sooner busted my cable dam.
Great video thank you.
Mine has alot of slack will this make truck not pass first gear
Some times it does all late after high rev ?
Tighten it a little,
If its super loose will you have hard shifts?
Not engaging?
Typically the hard shifts will occur because the cable is too tight. As he stated it won’t hurt the transmission being too tight, but too loose will burn it up quick
How quickly can the transmission burn up when it is too loose?
Depends on the transmission and how far off it is from where it is supposed to be. Worse case is if the cable isn't even connected. The trans wont last a week.
@@killer2600 You're right. Put my T bird back on the road after sitting for 9 years. Took it for a test drive down the road, about 45 miles round trip. No hills to speak of, pretty much flat ground. 45 to 50 mph the whole trip. Halfway through, noticed rpm was too high, car would pick up speed, even with no throttle. Pulled over, looked at throttle body for binding linkage. Noticed tv cable was disconnected, clip missing. This was blocking the throttle lever from closing fully. Just layed it out of the way, drove home, not knowing any better. I thought the only consequence would be failure to downshift if I tried to find "passing gear". Tried to drive it to work the next day, when I got on the interstate, the trans started slipping at 3/4 throttle, fluid was really dark the next day. Then saw this video while searching for cable bushing and clip. 🙄 Learned my lesson the hard way.
Thanks
Thank You, that makes things easier
He should have shown how to adjust it.
Great explanation. But is there a way to correctly set it without seeing the transmission? Seems easy to smoke a transmission if not set correctly.
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