I found your channel by pure luck. I have my dad's 88 K1500 that I'm restoring and your content is perfect! My 19 year old son is learning as we tackle our restoration project. My son doesn't know but when we're done, he gets the truck! Keep up the great work!
Yo good luck man. Just wanted to say that you got the perfect base for learning, I have a 1991 and it's pretty simple to work on for the most part. Not to mention that the parts are plentiful, cheap, and mostly reliable
My cable was fraying where the wire comes out at the throttle bracket on the throttle body side. It is a 1991 Chevy C1500 with 314,000 miles so I guess can't complain too much lol. Did get alot of miles out of it. Unfortunately, the GM replacement cable is getting hard to find since it is discontinued through GM. However, did find a dealership from another state that had one they would ship to me. The aftermarket part has mixed reviews but the GM always has positive reviews so I paid the extra money to get the GM one. This video was certainly helpful!
Thank you so much, darn near everything you have done on this truck is exactly the same as my 88 gmc s15 4x4 4.3 so these videos have really helped. I just have a little less room.
🤣🤣😂 You earned a subscriber w that opening line, and I drive an 89 k1500 extended cab pickup, your videos are informative and I appreciate your insight 👍
Little tip for anyone replacing one of these without a new transmission install, use fishing line on the old one as you pull it out. It saves a good while getting the new one back in.
What you do is push that button and push the little nub ting all the way in then go in the cab and press on your accelerator all the way to the floor, now its set. When your accelerator is all the way open the cable should be banjo tight. When you arent pressing on the accelerator it will have slack in it. If its adjusted wrong then when you press the gas all the way down it wont go as far as it shoud.
Pro tip: Drain your transmission before unbolting the end of that TV cable and pulling it out, unless you enjoy the taste of transmission fluid. Don't ask how I know.
Sir is your throttle hard to push at the pedal? Mine was very hard so I installed a new throttle cable and helped somewhat but still can't hardly ease on the gas from a dead stop without it jerking/sticking. Do you have a video on this. Thanks
Have you guys figured out a fix? I have the same problem. It almost seems as if the the oem replacement cable is just shy of being long enough. I bought a universal adjustable cable but im trying to avoid messing with it.
I had the same problem with my throttle plus trans. shifting hard. I adjusted trans. cable after watching this video and the trans. gears change out smooth and throttle stop sticking. Beats me but I had already removed gas pedal and lubed under it and sprayed lube on every connection I could find on the throttle cable.
That's why I'm not. No idea about PO but I posted pictures of my linkage on gmt400 forums asking if anyone thought something was wrong. No one caught it and I had to look at it after your video to realize it was gone. Not really even sure if it's a 700 or 4l60 either.
I have a 1980 C10 SILVERADO , with a TH350 transmission and a 1406 edelbrockcarburetor, and a 2701 edelbrock intake manifold. would you know what type of TV cable and length, would I need to install it? PLEASE advise.thank you.Robert. also it has the original stock bracket,which puts the old TV on a angel. its not align with the carburetor. any information would be appreciated.thanks again. Robert
My tv cable has a a bunch of slack tryed adjustment about 4 times still lots of slack should I just replace the cable? Don't know if this matters but 89 chevy 1500 700r4 new trans is from a 88 Chevy 3500
How much trouble would I be in if the old gasket around the piece that slides in and bolts onto transmission fell in hole when I went too pull it out slipped right down into port
@1:37 looks easy on push down...but i ruined my new TV detent cable $22.00, bent the plastic and crushed and split the plastic with the 10mm bolt to seat it after several days of leaking.... it leaked really bad. Can't believe that cable seat and push down was so difficult...i get to try again tomorrow with a new cable. I'm a good mechanic but i failed on that little round piece seating it in the hole...i was cock-eyed....and the round plastic was oval-ed. I never break new parts....I'm 60 years old....and that cable seat was most difficult thing I've ever encounter, so i forced it and locked it down with the 10mm. Tomorrow i will go very slow, no forcing, not to deform the silly plastic while using grease...grease must be the key.
Question I just did a rear main seal on my 1989 c2500 5.7 and I installed this new cable but I did not do what you did lol now I'm having late shifts will this case that?????
Knowing its best to put the seal into the transmission first and then the cable case slides right into it.... how hard was ity to put the seal in the transmission? Im in the process of replacing my TV cable(B&M) thats in the vehicle as well, tried three different correct TV seals and no matter how hard i try to press it in the trans, the seal will just not go in, just round and round it goes and wont get centered, even with a smiggen of atf oil on the seal doesnt help, been fighting this for two weekends now. Even tried leaving the seal on the TV cable end itself, hoping it would center itself and just drop in, still no go, it leaves a small gap in the rear that i know is not correct and for sure will leak. Frustrating
@@SuburbanRanch No old seal, it came out in one peice with the old TV cable... i finally got it though, you mentioned using "lube", i used a pinch of WD40 on the outer part of the new seal, and it pressed right it, figure why it didnt work with ATF fluid as lubrication. Pushing in the cable case was another story, i tried the same pinch of WD40 and it went it tough like it didnt want to fit like the seal at first, but i was able to work it in slowly with a bit of finess to make it finally sit flush on the new seal, it didnt just drop in like yours in this video. I then lightly snugged down the 10mm bolt afterwards and its good to go, what a PITA this was, only because this was my first time dealing with a 700r4 and its TV cable replacement. Now i'll know what to do next time, and that means also dropping the passenger side exhaust pipe from that side header to give me more clearance to work around.(1979 malibu 2dr coupe)
@@SuburbanRanch Heres an update for you... about 3weeks back, i removed the B&M universal cable and replaced it with an ac delco unit that has a total case length of 37", its a few inches longer than the adjusted length of the B&M unit that worked for me. I wanted more of a direct line of sight towards the carburator bracket without it snaking around the transmission bellhousing too much, either way, i also bought a new ac delco cable seal to the transmission, it slipped right in with a touch of WD-40 as before. Next came to inserting the case end into the transmission seal, again, with a touch of WD-40 as well, and to my surprise, it slid right in almost right away with very little force, like yours in this video, so apparently, the B&M and other aftermarket cables ends are a pinch larger than the OEM cable when fitting into the transmission seal, hence the fighting against you when trying to be inserted even with some form of lubricant. The inner cable is a tad too long and the carburator end, so that will have to be trimmed to make it secure for proper opperation of the transmission, if only i could find and OEM ac delco tv cable thats 32'' total inches in length, that would be more ideal for me, but sadly theres plenty of other part numbers, unfortunately most do not state the total length, so all i have to go by is cables made for early 90s cars/trucks that use a TB(like carb) that came with v6/v8 engines and 700r4 transmissions.
@@SuburbanRanch before putting the Detent cable on the lever control arm. Measure how much movement by measuring how far you can pull the arm out of the transmission. You can feel when the arm makes contact with the valve in the transmission. This will tell if the valve is constantly being engaged. If you start the vehicle and pull on the cable when parked, the hard you lift the more drag is put on the engine. This is the internal clutch working in the torque converter. When it is over worked it will heat the ATF and cook the transmission. Best not to have to much drag on the engine it will cause over heating. Not sure who thought this was a good idea, but if wanted to make it last longer with less wear and tear on my engine... put a stall converter in. I have never been a fan of slippage from any transmission... automatics are the worse for feeling stranded when slipping. And that is actually what the OD Detent (kick down) cable does. deverts the flow of oil to each gear, except the 4 OD will cause a 200 rpm slip for pulling loads at high speeds. At least for the 700r4.
I found your channel by pure luck. I have my dad's 88 K1500 that I'm restoring and your content is perfect! My 19 year old son is learning as we tackle our restoration project. My son doesn't know but when we're done, he gets the truck! Keep up the great work!
Yo good luck man. Just wanted to say that you got the perfect base for learning, I have a 1991 and it's pretty simple to work on for the most part. Not to mention that the parts are plentiful, cheap, and mostly reliable
thank you ! my 90 was to tight and the others did not explain what you did !!! time is something we run out of 😞so again thank you for yours !
perfect example, clear and simple with no extras, i appreciate the video
My cable was fraying where the wire comes out at the throttle bracket on the throttle body side. It is a 1991 Chevy C1500 with 314,000 miles so I guess can't complain too much lol. Did get alot of miles out of it. Unfortunately, the GM replacement cable is getting hard to find since it is discontinued through GM. However, did find a dealership from another state that had one they would ship to me. The aftermarket part has mixed reviews but the GM always has positive reviews so I paid the extra money to get the GM one. This video was certainly helpful!
Thank you so much, darn near everything you have done on this truck is exactly the same as my 88 gmc s15 4x4 4.3 so these videos have really helped. I just have a little less room.
Thanks for making these videos, i had no idea what that cable was for till now.
🤣🤣😂 You earned a subscriber w that opening line, and I drive an 89 k1500 extended cab pickup, your videos are informative and I appreciate your insight 👍
You make a hard job look easy! Thanks for the simple explanation and demonstration. I'm going to have to subscribe and follow your videos.
Little tip for anyone replacing one of these without a new transmission install, use fishing line on the old one as you pull it out. It saves a good while getting the new one back in.
Finely a video that make since, i'm installing a 4L60 behind a Ford flathead and I want to get this right.
great video super helpful i was looking for the cable part number. Great job!
aloha I am restoring 92 5.7l k1500 and your videos help a lot
Thank man this video was really helpful my truck running perfect now
Gracias amigo aqui tienes un nuevo seguidor
Finaly a video that makes sense
What you do is push that button and push the little nub ting all the way in then go in the cab and press on your accelerator all the way to the floor, now its set. When your accelerator is all the way open the cable should be banjo tight. When you arent pressing on the accelerator it will have slack in it. If its adjusted wrong then when you press the gas all the way down it wont go as far as it shoud.
Gracias mi amigo, excelente video y muy informativo!!
Pro tip: Drain your transmission before unbolting the end of that TV cable and pulling it out, unless you enjoy the taste of transmission fluid. Don't ask how I know.
Very good instructions. Thanks a lot.
Sir is your throttle hard to push at the pedal? Mine was very hard so I installed a new throttle cable and helped somewhat but still can't hardly ease on the gas from a dead stop without it jerking/sticking. Do you have a video on this. Thanks
@Ronald Stevenson No my throttle is not hard to push. We currently have the front end apart so we haven’t driven it yet.
Let me know if you fix it I have the same issue
Have you guys figured out a fix? I have the same problem. It almost seems as if the the oem replacement cable is just shy of being long enough. I bought a universal adjustable cable but im trying to avoid messing with it.
@Ernesto Alfaro @vince walsh We have driven it since and our throttle seems fine. No issues.
I had the same problem with my throttle plus trans. shifting
hard. I adjusted trans. cable after watching this video and
the trans. gears change out smooth and throttle stop sticking.
Beats me but I had already removed gas pedal and lubed under it and sprayed lube on every connection I could find on the throttle cable.
Could be the only video that shows doing this in the car.
Great help great video thank you sir
Thx, my cable, at the carb end, has been loose, dangling flopping round since i bought my truck 2 yrs ago, Now i have a clue, or 2....
Would a tv cable from a 350 5.7 s/b reduce the performance to my 305 5.0 s/b. Its takes long to pick up speed.
It's a 305 no such thing as performance
that was good; we make like 5 dollars a month.
Thanks for saying
Gracias pero muchas muchas muchas gracias maestro
always set your tv cable with a pressure gauge my brother..
@the doberman gang A pressure gauge? Please describe this process, never heard of it
Is this also called the automatic shift cable?
@hunter nelson Not sure, I’ve always heard it called a TV cable
I think I'm missing the lower cable! Will my burb still be able to move in 1 and 2nd with it missing like it does?
You are missing the TV cable? I’ve heard it can burn up the trans to run without one, I wouldn’t recommend it!
That's why I'm not. No idea about PO but I posted pictures of my linkage on gmt400 forums asking if anyone thought something was wrong. No one caught it and I had to look at it after your video to realize it was gone. Not really even sure if it's a 700 or 4l60 either.
I have a 1980 C10 SILVERADO , with a TH350 transmission and a 1406 edelbrockcarburetor, and a 2701 edelbrock intake manifold. would you know what type of TV cable and length, would I need to install it? PLEASE advise.thank you.Robert. also it has the original stock bracket,which puts the old TV on a angel. its not align with the carburetor. any information would be appreciated.thanks again. Robert
@Robert Delao Sorry, I’m not sure on this one. Maybe someone else can help.
Thanks
Ah so that's where this button is hiding! Thank you.
I need to help figure out my accelerator cable sticks
My tv cable has a a bunch of slack tryed adjustment about 4 times still lots of slack should I just replace the cable? Don't know if this matters but 89 chevy 1500 700r4 new trans is from a 88 Chevy 3500
@Brandon Kehoe Sounds like you may need a new cable
New cable or you’ll burn your trans up
Did you buy the pioneer ca1970 or the atp y228 cable? Thanks in advance.
@Glen Miller We bought the GM one, I guess it’s not listed anymore on Rockauto.
How much trouble would I be in if the old gasket around the piece that slides in and bolts onto transmission fell in hole when I went too pull it out slipped right down into port
I think you could get it out if you remove the transmission pan. We have a video on that too!
Is this just for 4x4? Cause my 2wd does not have a bottom cable at all.
@Michael White What year is it?
@@SuburbanRanch 93
93 and newer have electronic transmissions (4L60E or 4L80E) and no TV or kick down cable is used
Good job
@1:37 looks easy on push down...but i ruined my new TV detent cable $22.00, bent the plastic and crushed and split the plastic with the 10mm bolt to seat it after several days of leaking.... it leaked really bad. Can't believe that cable seat and push down was so difficult...i get to try again tomorrow with a new cable. I'm a good mechanic but i failed on that little round piece seating it in the hole...i was cock-eyed....and the round plastic was oval-ed. I never break new parts....I'm 60 years old....and that cable seat was most difficult thing I've ever encounter, so i forced it and locked it down with the 10mm. Tomorrow i will go very slow, no forcing, not to deform the silly plastic while using grease...grease must be the key.
@Accuracy Marked Good Luck!
@@SuburbanRanch i knew better not to force it...your grease method is best. Thanks!
Question I just did a rear main seal on my 1989 c2500 5.7 and I installed this new cable but I did not do what you did lol now I'm having late shifts will this case that?????
@Christian Technician Life Yes, sounds like it might need an adjustment.
Is that the original bracket holding the cable?
@Eli Nino Yes, original bracket
That bolt was longer than a prison sentence
Mine just loose and it doesn't acceleration
@lumenxs 123 Try adjusting it!
Someone said the 95 and up has the shift cable and the pre 88-94s don’t? What shift cable do I need for a 91 automatic? Is it called the detent cable?
@Dylan Haynes I would look on Rockauto for the part. You can look up your exact vehicle and get all the parts
I think that’s true because mine is a 94 and doesent have it.
@@TheUndertoe My 92 has this set up. It depends on what transmission you have. They used different transmissions in all years.
@@kylemichaels3373 the 700r4 has it but the 4l60e doesent
Knowing its best to put the seal into the transmission first and then the cable case slides right into it.... how hard was ity to put the seal in the transmission? Im in the process of replacing my TV cable(B&M) thats in the vehicle as well, tried three different correct TV seals and no matter how hard i try to press it in the trans, the seal will just not go in, just round and round it goes and wont get centered, even with a smiggen of atf oil on the seal doesnt help, been fighting this for two weekends now. Even tried leaving the seal on the TV cable end itself, hoping it would center itself and just drop in, still no go, it leaves a small gap in the rear that i know is not correct and for sure will leak. Frustrating
@Bige4u Did you remove the old seal? Seems like there might be something still in the hole? Did it maybe fall apart and only part of it came out?
@@SuburbanRanch No old seal, it came out in one peice with the old TV cable... i finally got it though, you mentioned using "lube", i used a pinch of WD40 on the outer part of the new seal, and it pressed right it, figure why it didnt work with ATF fluid as lubrication. Pushing in the cable case was another story, i tried the same pinch of WD40 and it went it tough like it didnt want to fit like the seal at first, but i was able to work it in slowly with a bit of finess to make it finally sit flush on the new seal, it didnt just drop in like yours in this video. I then lightly snugged down the 10mm bolt afterwards and its good to go, what a PITA this was, only because this was my first time dealing with a 700r4 and its TV cable replacement. Now i'll know what to do next time, and that means also dropping the passenger side exhaust pipe from that side header to give me more clearance to work around.(1979 malibu 2dr coupe)
@@SuburbanRanch Heres an update for you... about 3weeks back, i removed the B&M universal cable and replaced it with an ac delco unit that has a total case length of 37", its a few inches longer than the adjusted length of the B&M unit that worked for me. I wanted more of a direct line of sight towards the carburator bracket without it snaking around the transmission bellhousing too much, either way, i also bought a new ac delco cable seal to the transmission, it slipped right in with a touch of WD-40 as before. Next came to inserting the case end into the transmission seal, again, with a touch of WD-40 as well, and to my surprise, it slid right in almost right away with very little force, like yours in this video, so apparently, the B&M and other aftermarket cables ends are a pinch larger than the OEM cable when fitting into the transmission seal, hence the fighting against you when trying to be inserted even with some form of lubricant. The inner cable is a tad too long and the carburator end, so that will have to be trimmed to make it secure for proper opperation of the transmission, if only i could find and OEM ac delco tv cable thats 32'' total inches in length, that would be more ideal for me, but sadly theres plenty of other part numbers, unfortunately most do not state the total length, so all i have to go by is cables made for early 90s cars/trucks that use a TB(like carb) that came with v6/v8 engines and 700r4 transmissions.
At 1:20 I don’t see the hook, all I see is the cable going down.
@Jesse N This help? drive.google.com/file/d/1iNj-zge0dxY_V7vd9ghL4WEinXcCrobj
@@SuburbanRanch thanks for replying. I requested access to the file you are sharing. Thanks
@Jesse N sorry about that, thought I had it opened for anyone with a link try again
@@SuburbanRanch yes that’s the hook I didn’t see. But after I removed it at the engine somehow it popped up. Thanks for your help. Subbed.
Hi what gasket is used at 1:40
The cable I bought did not include it. 1991 gmc c2500 5.7. Thanks !
Hey being worth fives of dollars is better than ones of dollars
The part listed below is not valid.
I drive a 89 Chevy g20 van. My TV cable keeps slipping. I have set a few times now
What’s not valid about it? Did you try replacing it?
@@SuburbanRanch I tried buying it and it says that part number doesn't exist
Hmm. Maybe they quit making it.
@@SuburbanRanch they had parts for it but not the hole thing
.
I bet you went and put that slack back in it....
@jotegg why do you say that?
@@SuburbanRanch before putting the Detent cable on the lever control arm. Measure how much movement by measuring how far you can pull the arm out of the transmission. You can feel when the arm makes contact with the valve in the transmission. This will tell if the valve is constantly being engaged. If you start the vehicle and pull on the cable when parked, the hard you lift the more drag is put on the engine. This is the internal clutch working in the torque converter. When it is over worked it will heat the ATF and cook the transmission. Best not to have to much drag on the engine it will cause over heating. Not sure who thought this was a good idea, but if wanted to make it last longer with less wear and tear on my engine... put a stall converter in. I have never been a fan of slippage from any transmission... automatics are the worse for feeling stranded when slipping. And that is actually what the OD Detent (kick down) cable does. deverts the flow of oil to each gear, except the 4 OD will cause a 200 rpm slip for pulling loads at high speeds. At least for the 700r4.