Hello, I noticed your adjustable blade guide is retracted all the way. The blade guide should always be extended as close to the log or cant as possible. The guide is adjustable for a reason. As soon as the blade starts to get dull or you feed to fast it will wander. After milling literally millions of board feet on industrial bandsaws I can say, "as soon as you see 'snake' you slow down or change your blade". Keep that blade guide close to the wood and everything will be better! Cheers, MAC
Replying to my own post; Maybe your mill does not have the adjustable blade guide? If it does not it is an absolutely necessary piece to have. I always wondered why it is not standard equipment on all the Woodland mills. You need to get one, you won't be disappointed. Cheers, MAC
Your advice was my first thought. Choking up on the log shortens the amount of blade and makes it mor rigid through the cut...i see people all the time with the throat all the way open..or worse yet not available on the mill.
Its all live and learn with these mills.I can read the directions but can't follow them..You know left is in and out is right...Its all fun if you don't work so long you hate it.I have an eye for oddities one can find in wood..I found some alien eyes in a pine log last summer..My sis wanted it..Tooo funny! Yesterday i found a polar bear laying on a hump of ice...thats why I love milling..Kind of like day dreaming as a kid looking at clouds and finding a saucer ,a plane or Jimmy Durantes nose...You both seem to work great together.Keep up the team work and smile as much as you can...Great video!
Maybe you can just run those planks through a thickness planer and repurpose them. Thanks for this video. I've had similar problems with my 122. I was cutting mostly Ash and maple so the blades don't last long.
Hello, I know this video is 2 yrs old but got a question....at 0:43 into it when the lube tank was being filled, That was some really soapy looking mix being pored ....can I ask what your mix recipe is for your lube and how does it work at keeping pine pitch off the blades/belts ?? Thanks
I had this problem, wasnt apparent that I hit anything. Blade guide 3" from the cant. Swapped the blade, still cut wavy. Then I checked my blade tension. It had backed off about 1/8 inch. Tightened it up. Cut dead level. With the same blade that was wavy originally. Band saw milling it a learning curve. No pun intended.
I did not see it on here.. but if you leave the tension on the blade for an extended time like over night it stretches the blade and causes waves.. releasing the Is tension will prevent this.
I had a problem with this , and also blades dulling really fast , top tip get pressure washer and wash your logs the tiniest bit of grit/sand stone dulls blade , you can improve blade life 2 fold :) Another option is changing blade when you get on a good clean cant :)
I’m just seeing this because I’m not getting notifications! Anyhow, I love the sawmill vids for some strange reason, and actually find them relaxing, which is in stark contrast to the reality of sawing! Ha! I’m looking forward to y’all getting that wood shop in working order so we can see some cool projects! Who’s the woodworker, you or Eddie? Hope y’all had a great holiday season, and look forward to seeing what you bring us in 2022! God bless y’all!
Thanks Tom, Make sure you click the notification bell on the channel to get notified. Some times youtube will undo what you have already done. I am the wanna be wood worker. I have refinished furniture in my time but never built any. So it's going to be fun learning.
@@ThirdTimeAroundRanch At just days away from 62, I’ve been struggling to learn hand cut mortise & tenon joinery this week! The first 11 were sub-awful, but after watching a couple Paul Sellers vids, #’s 12, 13 & 14 looked much better! I couldn’t read the newspaper looking through the gaps on those! I spent 40+ years as a certified welder, so I’m changing it up a bit in retirement! I still do occasional welding fixes for friends as well as the woodwork, so my son suggested calling my shop “Sparks & Splinters Workshop”! I kind of like it! Keep us posted, and DO NOT be afraid to show the occasional failure! That way we know you’re human!
@@tomt9543 Love the name! It will mostly be failures or at least very sub par for quite some time I am sure. I am actually going to show off my very first project in the next video.
running the guide arm wide open will contribute to blade error adjusting to size log your cutting will help. your cut will be better and your blade will last longer due to better lubrication and less whiplash
I leave my blade guide pulled back pretty far. With the roller guides adjusted correctly, blade sharpened and set, I cut fast and straight. Mill alignment is key. The faster you cut the less sawdust. And blade stays sharp longer because it's in the wood less time.
Hey guys I found out something that might interest you woodland mills as a laxer light that can tell you were your cutting your boards with out halting to use a ruler to masure
Pushing your saw mill blade too fast through the logs can cause wavy cuts, also your blade maybe loose or your guideds are too far apart. Hope this helps.
@@gregboshell977 The biggest problem was not being able to get replacement parts. Basically after you buy it HF washes their hands of you and the machine.
I've been milling my own lumber with a BSM since the 90's, and anytime you get wavy lumber, and you don't see anything obvious, ALWAYS change the band first!! Almost always it will fix the problem as dull bands = wavy lumber!! SR
The blade that was producing the wavy boards only had 3 logs on it and was still cutting quite easily I wonder if it was dull or something else went amiss with it.
Up grading to a 1.2 inch width X 0.055 thickness X 7/8 inch tooth spacing, with a 10° degree tooth hook angle will greatly improve your productivity 😀 👍
Honey I admire your spunk... that said, I was wondering how come you don't use the sliding guide block so less of the blade is flying in the air before the cut? If it doesn't adjust then getting a adjustable arm for it may help some too when those blades are getting dull. I don't know if a person could ever run a thin board through again to take some of that wave out but maybe you can hide them in some live edge siding or underlay on the roof of some building for purelling, to screw metal down to. I saw those waves as you were sawing before and just sawing faster might of made bigger waves yet. One thing for sure, every board counts when you need them. We sawed some spruce here about three weeks ago and it came from a lake job. They fell the trees along the beach line and inside of the bark was a layer of sand that had been blown into the trees during storms from years before.... it took out a blade per cut getting the bark off of these trees. Nice sized an just couldn't leave thirty to forty inch trees just not cut up. Here in alaska, we have glacier silt and its deadly to blades.
@@sawyerrob949 thanks guys... its starting to warm up here... a pleasant thirty right now. You could put a minus sign in front of the thirty just a few days ago. If you are curious about our country side... simple life alaska is my neighbors channel and you can see what we get. They put out some really good videos and its all local central alaska. I'd bet a nickel that you would enjoy watching their short videos
@@morgansword I lived in Alaska for 25 years and traveled much of the state, mostly hunting. I spent huge amounts of time in the bush, so I do have an idea what Alaska is like. I have seen some of the simple life Alaska vids, along with a few others too... SR
Our mill did not come with the sliding blade guide I think they sell one you can add to it but we have not as of yet felt it was a priority when we have so many other things to invest in. And those wavy boards will get used for "something"
Those are some nice logs. The man using his shin for a log stop while loading the logs has an extremely strong shin. I would not attempt that. Nice work on those boards.
If you want the blade to last longer, I suggest a log wizard to take the bark off, there's a lot of dirt in the bark which dulles the blade quick, works for me I get more lumbar out of one blade.
Hello, I noticed your adjustable blade guide is retracted all the way. The blade guide should always be extended as close to the log or cant as possible. The guide is adjustable for a reason. As soon as the blade starts to get dull or you feed to fast it will wander. After milling literally millions of board feet on industrial bandsaws I can say, "as soon as you see 'snake' you slow down or change your blade". Keep that blade guide close to the wood and everything will be better! Cheers, MAC
Replying to my own post; Maybe your mill does not have the adjustable blade guide? If it does not it is an absolutely necessary piece to have. I always wondered why it is not standard equipment on all the Woodland mills. You need to get one, you won't be disappointed. Cheers, MAC
@@bobmacri1047 yes, we do not have an adjustable blade guide and can't afford one anytime soon, though I do agree it would be very useful.
Your advice was my first thought. Choking up on the log shortens the amount of blade and makes it mor rigid through the cut...i see people all the time with the throat all the way open..or worse yet not available on the mill.
2^{%irutfiirdueudd2.0 w9wiei1183e8esi8s
I really like the nonchalant way of unraveling the bandsaw blade. That right there just alleviated any fear I had about running my own mill.
Killed my father, be careful
Its all live and learn with these mills.I can read the directions but can't follow them..You know left is in and out is right...Its all fun if you don't work so long you hate it.I have an eye for oddities one can find in wood..I found some alien eyes in a pine log last summer..My sis wanted it..Tooo funny! Yesterday i found a polar bear laying on a hump of ice...thats why I love milling..Kind of like day dreaming as a kid looking at clouds and finding a saucer ,a plane or Jimmy Durantes nose...You both seem to work great together.Keep up the team work and smile as much as you can...Great video!
Thank you, I never was very good at finding things in the clouds. LOL
Yes, the closer your blade guides to the wood, the less drift you get.
Have the movable guide as close to the work as you can..changing the blade don't always fix wavy boards
I don't have a moveable guide or I would.
Y’all are awesome,I’ve learned a lot !! Thanks
thanks for the video
Lovely superb sawing
Many thanks
cool tune. adjustable blade guides limit the travel of the blade. Does WM make one for that 122?
They do make one, we have not invested in one as of yet because the logs we mill are so large they take up the whole blade.
Maybe you can just run those planks through a thickness planer and repurpose them.
Thanks for this video. I've had similar problems with my 122. I was cutting mostly Ash and maple so the blades don't last long.
I had that problem the other day changed my blade last night. But it was to dark to try it. Hope it fixes mine. Thanks for the video.
Did it fix it? What type of mill do you have?
Hello, I know this video is 2 yrs old but got a question....at 0:43 into it when the lube tank was being filled, That was some really soapy looking mix being pored ....can I ask what your mix recipe is for your lube and how does it work at keeping pine pitch off the blades/belts ?? Thanks
we just put a few squirts of dawn into the gallon of water. It does an ok job of keeping the blade clean but I hear pinesol may work better
@@ThirdTimeAroundRanch someone told me windshield washer works good for lubrication..
I had this problem, wasnt apparent that I hit anything. Blade guide 3" from the cant. Swapped the blade, still cut wavy. Then I checked my blade tension. It had backed off about 1/8 inch. Tightened it up. Cut dead level. With the same blade that was wavy originally.
Band saw milling it a learning curve. No pun intended.
I did not see it on here.. but if you leave the tension on the blade for an extended time like over night it stretches the blade and causes waves.. releasing the Is tension will prevent this.
Try moving the left blade guide closer to the log.
Our blade guides are immovable.
I had a problem with this , and also blades dulling really fast , top tip get pressure washer and wash your logs the tiniest bit of grit/sand stone dulls blade , you can improve blade life 2 fold :)
Another option is changing blade when you get on a good clean cant :)
I’m just seeing this because I’m not getting notifications! Anyhow, I love the sawmill vids for some strange reason, and actually find them relaxing, which is in stark contrast to the reality of sawing! Ha! I’m looking forward to y’all getting that wood shop in working order so we can see some cool projects! Who’s the woodworker, you or Eddie? Hope y’all had a great holiday season, and look forward to seeing what you bring us in 2022! God bless y’all!
Thanks Tom, Make sure you click the notification bell on the channel to get notified. Some times youtube will undo what you have already done. I am the wanna be wood worker. I have refinished furniture in my time but never built any. So it's going to be fun learning.
@@ThirdTimeAroundRanch At just days away from 62, I’ve been struggling to learn hand cut mortise & tenon joinery this week! The first 11 were sub-awful, but after watching a couple Paul Sellers vids, #’s 12, 13 & 14 looked much better! I couldn’t read the newspaper looking through the gaps on those! I spent 40+ years as a certified welder, so I’m changing it up a bit in retirement! I still do occasional welding fixes for friends as well as the woodwork, so my son suggested calling my shop “Sparks & Splinters Workshop”! I kind of like it! Keep us posted, and DO NOT be afraid to show the occasional failure! That way we know you’re human!
@@tomt9543 Love the name! It will mostly be failures or at least very sub par for quite some time I am sure. I am actually going to show off my very first project in the next video.
@@ThirdTimeAroundRanch ALRIGHT!!
running the guide arm wide open will contribute to blade error adjusting to size log your cutting will help. your cut will be better and your blade will last longer due to better lubrication and less whiplash
We do not have an adjustable blade guard.
@@ThirdTimeAroundRanch i see now what you mean. that's the first saw i ever seen without adjustable guide arm
I leave my blade guide pulled back pretty far. With the roller guides adjusted correctly, blade sharpened and set, I cut fast and straight. Mill alignment is key. The faster you cut the less sawdust. And blade stays sharp longer because it's in the wood less time.
Hey guys I found out something that might interest you woodland mills as a laxer light that can tell you were your cutting your boards with out halting to use a ruler to masure
Cool!
I was thinking if you made 1/4 - 1/2 in thick boards, people could use those wavy boards as siding. Would be a really cool look for siding.
interesting idea, I like the way you think
nice job
Pushing your saw mill blade too fast through the logs can cause wavy cuts, also your blade maybe loose or your guideds are too far apart. Hope this helps.
Hi just wanted to say that I like your videos and what part of alabama are you from I am from a little town west of Birmingham about 50 miles
Thank you! We are from a small town near Dothan.
@@ThirdTimeAroundRanch so I see you weren't happy with the harbor freight sawmill good price but from what I've seen it has some problems
@@gregboshell977 The biggest problem was not being able to get replacement parts. Basically after you buy it HF washes their hands of you and the machine.
@@ThirdTimeAroundRanch as far as price how much difference is there with a 7 horse motor
@@gregboshell977 If your talking about the WM the difference in price between a 7 hp and a 9.5 hp is about $250
I've been milling my own lumber with a BSM since the 90's, and anytime you get wavy lumber, and you don't see anything obvious, ALWAYS change the band first!! Almost always it will fix the problem as dull bands = wavy lumber!! SR
The blade that was producing the wavy boards only had 3 logs on it and was still cutting quite easily I wonder if it was dull or something else went amiss with it.
@@ThirdTimeAroundRanch All you have to do is hit ONE small stone or some dirt trapped in the bark, and it's all over... SR
@@ThirdTimeAroundRanch You need to check and or replace belts as well...also very make sure your sawmill and "BLADE" are level...
I want one of those so bad! lol!
Hope you all are ok. Haven’t heard from you in a while.
Up grading to a 1.2 inch width X 0.055 thickness X 7/8 inch tooth spacing, with a 10° degree tooth hook angle will greatly improve your productivity 😀 👍
Honey I admire your spunk... that said, I was wondering how come you don't use the sliding guide block so less of the blade is flying in the air before the cut? If it doesn't adjust then getting a adjustable arm for it may help some too when those blades are getting dull. I don't know if a person could ever run a thin board through again to take some of that wave out but maybe you can hide them in some live edge siding or underlay on the roof of some building for purelling, to screw metal down to. I saw those waves as you were sawing before and just sawing faster might of made bigger waves yet. One thing for sure, every board counts when you need them. We sawed some spruce here about three weeks ago and it came from a lake job. They fell the trees along the beach line and inside of the bark was a layer of sand that had been blown into the trees during storms from years before.... it took out a blade per cut getting the bark off of these trees. Nice sized an just couldn't leave thirty to forty inch trees just not cut up. Here in alaska, we have glacier silt and its deadly to blades.
YES, you can resaw the wav's off the board, you have to go show as you are expecting the band to cut through thick and thin area's... SR
@@sawyerrob949 thanks guys... its starting to warm up here... a pleasant thirty right now. You could put a minus sign in front of the thirty just a few days ago. If you are curious about our country side... simple life alaska is my neighbors channel and you can see what we get. They put out some really good videos and its all local central alaska. I'd bet a nickel that you would enjoy watching their short videos
@@morgansword I lived in Alaska for 25 years and traveled much of the state, mostly hunting. I spent huge amounts of time in the bush, so I do have an idea what Alaska is like. I have seen some of the simple life Alaska vids, along with a few others too... SR
Our mill did not come with the sliding blade guide I think they sell one you can add to it but we have not as of yet felt it was a priority when we have so many other things to invest in. And those wavy boards will get used for "something"
Those are some nice logs. The man using his shin for a log stop while loading the logs has an extremely strong shin. I would not attempt that. Nice work on those boards.
Thank you
wavey cuts makes for a bad day of milling. had a few of those myself. almost always the blade.
Saw blades general first, then the tension, lose blade guides, material build up on carriage rails.
What blade guide?
The more the blade is dull the slower you have to push and smooth
If you want the blade to last longer, I suggest a log wizard to take the bark off, there's a lot of dirt in the bark which dulles the blade quick, works for me I get more lumbar out of one blade.
Sometimes we are asked for cutoffs with bark attached, but you are correct and we really do need to take all the bark off. Thank you
❤
Do I have any job there?
Why are you leaving boards stacked and not removing them???
It is much easier and more efficient to remove them all at once
You have to roll or flatten the blade.
Not having an adjustable blade guide doesn't help either..
You guys okay? Missing the videos.
We are OK and will be back soon.
👍👍
You lost your pitch lead on you saw, resharpen and re pitch your blade blade
You might want to check on UA-cam about how to plane wavy lumber to make it straight.
Cutting too fast dull blades and hitting knots.
How to ruin a log....run a dull blade w/ the guides too far out on a low hp sawmill. Cutting trash 101. Regards.
Blade is dull or loose guides to far from work piece
lol why cant we go!?
No gas. turn it on
LOL, sounds familiar doesn't it?
@@ThirdTimeAroundRanch Absolutely!
Wavy cuts= bad tooth set.
ugh. With a title like this I was expecting you to actually have some insight regarding what causes wavy cuts. Thumbs down.