Fantastic video Howard. Thank you posting it. Nice to have a visual of the instructions. You taking the time to do this means a lot. I can’t thank you enough.
Appreciate your videos Howard have a HD38 near completion. Have a question for you if you don't mind. The board return fingers. I see them as very helpful just wonder about the stress on the headrig? Do you use it on 2x10s or mainly 1x? Thanks Joel
@@PhelpsCycle Joel - you and I have the same concern about those fingers. Unless one gets them positioned just right it's easy for the fingers to still push up over a 16' 2X12 true cut piece and the result on the saw blade is not going to be pretty. Just so that I don't reflexively rely on them at the wrong time, I've actually quit using them entirely. They're still hanging there. I just don't rely on them. I find that it's also much more efficient to make several cuts totally just under 6", shut off the mill, remove them, blow the sawdust off with a leaf blower (reduces mold in my part of the continent), and sticker them before moving on to the next series of cuts.
@@PhelpsCycle I'm going to jump in on this thread for a bit... the dragback fingers are not compatible with the HD38 at this time, because of the different design of the sawhead. Norwood recently sent me a dragback system to see if I could modify it for the 38 and work up the instructions. Will keep you posted.
Ahhhh - interesting. Thanks for tuning in and passing that along. My preference typically is to cut from small to large, so as to better plan the full length boards I can get from the log. Now I have another good reason to cut small to large. Thanks again!
Great job as usual, Mr Kettner. Improper drive belt tension and using too aggressive of a hook angle can wreak havoc as well, wanted to throw that out there. Awesome content, keep it coming.
Great points - you are so right. I check that belt tension with every blade change, but forgot to mention that. Also - because I use the Norwood Pro sharpener at the factory settings I take the hook angle for granted - which you are quite correct - if incorrect that can change everything. Huge thanks for the added perspectives! Here's to the journey! Hoping all is well with you.
Yes I have. I could no longer hold those together with repairs - and the recommendation (from Norwood directly) about mounting a piece of 1/8 birch plywood inside of the front removable covers had the effect of distorting the rear of half of the covers - essentially pulling it forward till -the covers actually got cut nearly through because of being pressed up against the back of the running blade - despite some brackets I installed in an attempt to prevent. Very observant on your part. Looks like a new machine! Thanks for tuning in again!
Hi! I have a curiosity question about your building. Are you in an area with snow or little snow? I am in NY, have a fairly open building for the first time, and am considering how to close it up while leaving giant openings for logs. Just looking for advice if you have to deal with that and what you do about it. Thanks!
Lots of snow where I live (20 minutes from a ski hill) Temperatures down to minus 20 Celsius/-4 degrees Fahrenheit. I have a building with full sheeting on the side that seems to be where the cold wind comes from most of the time. THe building is 24 X 40 with my tool trailer parked just under the roof on the south side. I have a 24' opening for logs to come through. Your question sparked an idea for an upcoming video in which I'll deal with the whole topic of sawing below freezing and cover: Shelter Snow Lighting Tool/supplies storage Water Lube Logs (frozen) If anything else you'd like me to add to the list, or if there is a specific item in the above that you have a specific question about, just let me know. Thanks for tuning in and being part of my journey!
@@howardkettner Looking forward to it! I either leave the building open and shovel of any errant drifts or try to partially close it... which might create more drifting. But there's a roof over it, which is SOOO much better than before. Thank you for responding.
Fantastic video Howard. Thank you posting it. Nice to have a visual of the instructions. You taking the time to do this means a lot. I can’t thank you enough.
You are very welcome. Glad it was helpful. Huge thanks again for being part of my journey.
Appreciate your videos Howard have a HD38 near completion. Have a question for you if you don't mind. The board return fingers. I see them as very helpful just wonder about the stress on the headrig? Do you use it on 2x10s or mainly 1x?
Thanks Joel
@@PhelpsCycle Joel - you and I have the same concern about those fingers. Unless one gets them positioned just right it's easy for the fingers to still push up over a 16' 2X12 true cut piece and the result on the saw blade is not going to be pretty.
Just so that I don't reflexively rely on them at the wrong time, I've actually quit using them entirely. They're still hanging there. I just don't rely on them.
I find that it's also much more efficient to make several cuts totally just under 6", shut off the mill, remove them, blow the sawdust off with a leaf blower (reduces mold in my part of the continent), and sticker them before moving on to the next series of cuts.
@@howardkettner appreciate your feedback!
@@PhelpsCycle I'm going to jump in on this thread for a bit... the dragback fingers are not compatible with the HD38 at this time, because of the different design of the sawhead. Norwood recently sent me a dragback system to see if I could modify it for the 38 and work up the instructions. Will keep you posted.
Great video Howard.
Thanks for tuning in and being part of the journey!
Outstanding information share, Howard! I just keep turning the pages and writing down these tips!👍👍👍
Thanks John - can hardly wait till you take delivery. It'll never be the same, in a good way!
Heard that knotty logs should be cut from small end to big end to eliminate wavy cuts
Ahhhh - interesting. Thanks for tuning in and passing that along.
My preference typically is to cut from small to large, so as to better plan the full length boards I can get from the log. Now I have another good reason to cut small to large. Thanks again!
Great job as usual, Mr Kettner. Improper drive belt tension and using too aggressive of a hook angle can wreak havoc as well, wanted to throw that out there. Awesome content, keep it coming.
Great points - you are so right. I check that belt tension with every blade change, but forgot to mention that.
Also - because I use the Norwood Pro sharpener at the factory settings I take the hook angle for granted - which you are quite correct - if incorrect that can change everything.
Huge thanks for the added perspectives!
Here's to the journey! Hoping all is well with you.
Awesome information thanks!!
Thanks for tuning in! Glad it was helpful. Let me know if other topics that would be of interest.
Good info Howard, thanks! Btw, did you get a new blade enclosure for the mill. Seems like I remember lots of tape and repairs.
Yes I have. I could no longer hold those together with repairs - and the recommendation (from Norwood directly) about mounting a piece of 1/8 birch plywood inside of the front removable covers had the effect of distorting the rear of half of the covers - essentially pulling it forward till -the covers actually got cut nearly through because of being pressed up against the back of the running blade - despite some brackets I installed in an attempt to prevent.
Very observant on your part. Looks like a new machine!
Thanks for tuning in again!
Hi! I have a curiosity question about your building. Are you in an area with snow or little snow? I am in NY, have a fairly open building for the first time, and am considering how to close it up while leaving giant openings for logs. Just looking for advice if you have to deal with that and what you do about it. Thanks!
Lots of snow where I live (20 minutes from a ski hill) Temperatures down to minus 20 Celsius/-4 degrees Fahrenheit.
I have a building with full sheeting on the side that seems to be where the cold wind comes from most of the time.
THe building is 24 X 40 with my tool trailer parked just under the roof on the south side. I have a 24' opening for logs to come through.
Your question sparked an idea for an upcoming video in which I'll deal with the whole topic of sawing below freezing and cover:
Shelter
Snow
Lighting
Tool/supplies storage
Water
Lube
Logs (frozen)
If anything else you'd like me to add to the list, or if there is a specific item in the above that you have a specific question about, just let me know.
Thanks for tuning in and being part of my journey!
@@howardkettner Looking forward to it! I either leave the building open and shovel of any errant drifts or try to partially close it... which might create more drifting. But there's a roof over it, which is SOOO much better than before. Thank you for responding.
Set on the blade is real important, too little it will wave
I totally agree! Not too much, not too little - just right does it! Thanks for tuning in and being part of the conversation.