Air dry questions: 1. How high off the ground? Do you set your pallet straight on the ground? 2. Do you cover your air drying stacks? If so, how soon do you try to get it covered? 3. Location, sun, shade, Filtered light, 2-3 hrs of sunlight, etc? 4. Banding air drying stacks, your opinion/recommendations? Maybe a part 2 on air drying. Good info, thanks!
Several videos later, I hope I have answered these questions. No, set them on concrete, never on bare ground or moisture evolving material. I sometimes cover my stacks, depending on the species. Generally, I use open sided metal sheds. Banding is useless for keeping lumber flat. It always wants to force them into a circle. Take a rubber band, wrap it around a handful of soda straws, and the straws will form a cylinder. Same thing with lumber. Weight is the best, 3,000 lbs minimum per pallet on top of each stack.
To answer the question in detail will take pages, but I will provide a super short summary below. However, as I try to explain, rules are only rules if the reason behind them isn't known. All rule are made to be broken, and in lumber drying, rules can be wrong in many situations, which is wy so many people screw up their lumber. I don't want that to happen to anybody be me giving cryptic answers. The understanding behind the rules are the key, so me giving short answer is only correct in 80% of the situations, which means rules are wrong the other 20%. So I made 2 more full videos, to specifically explain just some of the answers to these questions. So I said I would do it, and I did.....
There's nothing simple about doins with the Professor. Healed it look simple but he expertly "reads" each piece and placed it appropriately. A lot of hard experiences leads to these videos. Again, thank you for taking the time to talk details.
I've never dried timber in my life before but the other week, I found a large chunk of beech on the beach here in the UK. Cut some of the spongy outer off & it had some nice spalting, so had it cut into 2" slabs by a local sawmill. 11 pieces in total It sat in the garage for a week but I moved it outside today & stickered it. Had a vague idea but now I know what I did wrong & will remedy my errors in the next couple of days. Thanks for the education.
Hello to the UK! Beech likes to move, it can be “grumpy” as it has an interlocked grain, so it’s best dried on a flat surface with lots of weight on it to calm it down.
Robert, I know how you closely guard your drying techniques, so I realize just how valuable this information is! Can't thank you enough for sharing this wisdom with us. Was the video sped up at the beginning of the video, or did you really blow through that log that fast? It's almost therapeutic watching you doing something you clearly love doing. I'm looking forward to the next great video!
That’s me sawing at actual speed, no special effects, no speeding up the video, nothing but a guy and his sawmill having fun. Just like everything else on my videos, it’s “real.” Yes you are 100% correct, I thought long and hard about making this one, about letting some of my money making secrets out. However, I had so many questions and comments about air drying, I figured it was time to put out some “real” info, especially since it flies in the face of common myths and misinformation.
Best sawmill videos on UA-cam!🙌 I'm a relatively new sawyer. I hear debates back and forth about where to air dry the lumber. Some say full sun and others argue it should be under shade, either natural or artificial, saying that "paces" the drying and reduces drying defects. I would love to hear your thoughts!
There is a lot to it, and I will cover it in a video, but basically, never dry wood where the maximum allowable moisture removal or drying rate is exceeded, which is often the case when a pack of green wood is in full sun.
Thank you for putting this information out there for us hobbyists. Any information on air drying from a professional is much appreciated with all of the conflicting stuff on the internet. I look forward to the next video, please share more in depth information on tthis subject, thank you again!!!
The conflicting information on the internet is one reason I did it. I was watching video after video on drying lumber, talking to the computer screen saying "No, that is wrong, No, No." You may be surprised that there are very few internet sawyers making videos who actually sell their lumber, they make their money off the videos, and if you want to see their credentials, look them up and see if they actually have a real, viable lumber storefront or lumber business vs just a souvenir shop selling boards they produce and autograph. Not faulting them, they are filmmakers making a few boards, but were are a lumber business making a few videos. Big difference.
Thanks again for another video. A few questions. Is it ok to mix species in a stack or should I start a new pallet? Is it ok to mix hardwood and softwood sticklers? Is sap wood ok for sticklers? When going to a solar kiln should I go right to the kiln or allow some air time first? Stay safe during the storm.
I always air dry first for a couple weeks at least, I prefer six, to flash of the surface moisture and get the EMC down, no matter which kind of kiln is used, even a solar kiln. Mixing species in an air drying stack is OK if they are the same drying group or schedule and if they will be air dried to their fiber saturation point before being put in a solar kiln. I never mix species if I will be drying in a DH kiln above FSP, I simply start a new pallet and if I'm cycling logs, I will just put them on the stacks that have already been started. Sapwood is fine for stickers, and it's OK to mix softwood and hardwood stickers, I've done it for years You just need to make sure the stickers are strong enough to not get crushed under the weight of the wood stacks, and make sure the softwood stickers are not sponges and cause sticker stain.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabamaI was watching another channel and they talked about powder post beetle (I believe) and they recommended that the pallets and stickers be made of opposite materials ie hardwood pallets for softwood lumber and vice versa. They said that once they switched, they never had infestation problems
Awesome video sir, I will try and find one of my bands with black on the back si you can see. Appreciate your call this week, very kind! PS. Martha's a rock star!
Great video Mr. Robert. If I'm wanting to save some whole logs for future projects/milling do i need to remove bark, end seal and position them up of the ground with plastic underneath till I'm ready to mill them? Any info feedback would be awesome. Thx
First, you are aware that isn't the best thing, but I understand, sometimes you got to do what you got to do. From my personal experience, and I have a video coming out this week that talks about old logs and some of the good and bad points, you will see some degrade, so you need to do some things to limit that. So do not remove the bark, that will enhance drying from the log and will increase drying cracks from the sides, bark acts like end sealer. When you initially buck the legs, leave them at least a foot or more long, on each end, so that any end defects that appear can mostly be cut off with a chainsaw when you actually get ready to saw them. Although stress cracks can progress further than a foot, most drying checks will not, no time them off clean and to length when you are ready to saw them. Endsealer can be applied, it wouldn't hurt, and if the logs as high value, you can use "crack stoppers" driven in the ends, but I rarely do that. Do stack them vertically, to get them off the ground, and to get them away from the insects in the dirt that will attack them. So make it hard for the bugs, and you can even spray with an insecticide to keep them away, if you want. Do not cover the logs with plastic as that will promote mold growth. Plastic sheet underneath will serve as a moisture barrier for them ground but will trap rain water, so it can be good and bad. Place and stack the over length logs in a shady, but airy spot, stacked in a nice pile, preferably off the ground (ground logs will have the highest degrade) and as the logs dry, the sapwood will start to check, but the heartwood should remain sound, of many months. however, all things rot eventually, so there is only so much you can do. You know, this would be a good topic for a video.
I’m just a hobbiest that is pretty new to the whole saw milling process. We’ve cut a few trees with a local sawmill service and we’ve air dried that lumber inside our shop with a dehumifier and a couple fans running. We’ve been happy with the results but one question that I’d like to hear your take on is about moisture meters. We have two-one with pins and one without. It’s hard to know which one to believe. We’ve even driven pin nails deep into the center of the wood and taken reading of those with the meter that has pins. I’d love to see a video on this subject.
I couldn’t work for you, you got bees, snakes, scorpions, and it looks way too hot… I prefer the snow up here and working with round logs. But thanks and great video!
I wonder if he either paints the ends with paint or liquid parafin to prevent splitting? I must have too much time on my hands because I could watch this guy all day!
Yes, for high value wood, I always use a commercial green wood end sealer, of various brands and formulations. Most are based on wax and glycol mixtures, to protect tends when green and then later evaporate off in the kiln. Thanks for watching.
No, not without the addition of heat and moisture, much like is done in steam bending. I have tried both, but dry bending with weight doesn't work except in maybe 10% of the boards. It's not worth doing.
Do you band clamp any of your lumber? Currently reading through comments & “?’s” but have not yet came across this one yet.. Thank you for your knowledge & all that you are forthcoming to educate most people that really have no idea of what it is they need to do or how they need to do it.. Many thanks my brother!
Thanks for the air drying tips. I've been meaning to ask you questions about it. So, please keep the air dry coming in! This video did leave me with one question though.... Where do you get fluted lumber stickers at?
I used to make all shapes and sizes, but now I just buy them. If you sedn me an email at hobbyhardwoodalabama@gmail.Com and I’ll send his contact info.
That is one pretty stack of hundred dollar bills that you built up! We have lots of holy ash locally 😮 😢. And volunteer cedar in pretty close proximity to each other 😢. And some poplar that have a tendency to fall over 😢. Oh yeah two old tired maples that the tops are dying. But you make awesome videos for them what have good lumber 😊
Good eyes and good comment and this goes the the real heart of my videos, that what many people think are hard and fast rules, are not, if you have the knowledge to understand why those rules were put in place to begin with, and that’s why I make the videos. So some rules are myths, some need to followed, and some are just guidelines. The impact of edge spacing goes down when packs are less than 48” wide (mine are 42”) and if the air drying area has adequate airflow and the stacks are not jammed together, with an adequate stack spacing between packs, they they will be fine. No different than drying a 40” wide live edge slab than drying a 40” wide later of 6” wide baords. Most times. IF the stacks are right, it won’t be detrimental. On the flip side, edge jamming on some species constrains the boards to dry with little crook, so can produce a straighter better board, especially with quartersawn and rift sawn wood. Good topic for a video!
Yoj just put a smile on my face 😅. But to business: When the sticker is on the end, how far apart should the others be? You put many stickers on short boards, maybe a foot apart? And what are your thoughts on using ratchet straps to "compress" the stack of boards?
I prefer a16” even spacing on stickers. Ratchet straps do not work well, dead weight on top of the stack is best by far. Straps try to roll the stack into a cylinder, and lose the ability to put down pressure on the boards. For example, take a handful of soda straws and put a rubber band on them, what shape does it become?
that is a beutiful saw...!..like a band saw lay'd over..!..it went through that walnut (which is a hard wood,correct..?)..like butter..!..first time on the channel...very cool..!
Thank you in advance. We've got a lot of trees down due to helene. Can I cut my trees into cants, stack and saw later? Swamped with trees but don't want to lose them!
@HobbyHardwoodAlabama I really respect your opinion. Thank you so much for the response! I guess I'll just store the logs up off the ground and try to spray them with an insecticide until I can get them sawn. Cherry, hickory, red and white oak, white pine, sweetgum. It's just about overwhelming!🤣
I noticed that you didn’t quarter saw this walnut. What species is best quarter sawed? I’m in the process of milling oak, pine and cherry and wondering the best milling approach?
White oak, chestnut white oak, sycamore, red oak, cherry, some maple, are about the best. Howevee, typically it’s white oak and sycamore are the standard species.
Great info Robert, as always! Do you weight down your air drying stacks with weights to keep those "pringle" boards in line? Use straps maybe? I see some put a tin roof over their stacks and drape down shade cloth to keep direct sunlight off the sides of the wood...what are your impressions of these techniques? Necessary or overkill? Looking forward to part 2 of air drying! I am going to see Nathan this weekend at the Paul Bunyan show in Ohio...learn a ton from both of you guys.
4:03 myth #1, what about discoloration, what cause it if it's not the sticker specie? i love it's grain, but is there something to do to flatten elm? it bows as hell while i'm sawing it. even worse when dry.
Most stickers stain is caused by one of two things, or sometimes both. Either trapped moisture and subsequent mold discoloration under the stickers, or enzyme stain where the temperature under the stickers is different than the exposed portions of the boards and the sugars in the wood begin to change color, much like how a fresh apple changes colors once cut. Both of these sticker stain issues can be solved with adequate airflow between the stickers and the wood, and making sure the stickers are not holding moisture like a sponge. So for example, I use random hardwood for all my stickers, as long as it's not prone to hold moisture and cause ,mold, such as basswood. Oak is fine, cherry, poplar, sassafras, etc are all mixed together in my sticker bins, and even the elm you are working with. That's also why I use the fluted or spiral stickers, simply because they promote good airflow between themselves and the board. As far as elm is concerned, its spiral grain structure makes it very difficult to saw straight without it bowing up. Use the fundamental stress management sawing techniques I discuss in some of my videos, and even then, you will still have about a 30% kill rate, but otherwise, you should get a majority of some very nice flat boards.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama ah... i may have use basswood and aspen for ash... on some board i have gray stripes, some other are lighter in color. i saw your video on stress. I will be more vigilant about this next summer, thank you for your response.
Don't need a metal detector around here, you're guaranteed to come away with at least a couple of nuggets of milling gold from the professor. Thank you sir!
Awesome video, thank you! I have a quick question. Do you wait at all for the logs to dry before making the boards, or do you cut the boards right after the tree is cut?
The best time to cut a log into boards is when it is still green. However, depending on species, I may wait for quite a long time. I guess the short mower is “It depends.”
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama Thanks for the reply! That helps. I was concerned that the boards may twist if they are cut from a log that is still green. However, I guess that the way they are set-up when drying prevents that to some extent.
Depending on the cut, there shouldn't be much bow, but I stack other packs of wood on top to make sure. You can't be too careful. I have a video coming out with some walnut that has been air drying and shows how flat the top layers are.
Definitely looking for more air drying videos. I dont have a kiln yet but i will in the near future. Ive always had luck leaving lumber stickered for at least a year in my barn. Once i get to use it i sticker it on a shelf near the cieling in my shop once the forced air heat is on amd i can usually achieve 7 to 8 percent thatbway. But only works in the winter and it takes a while, plus its alot of handling. Im starting the process now of sourcing a kiln, hopefully will be up and running next spring. Thanks for the info!
Ok, finally got electricity back on, got a nice meal, settled down to watch my weekly show, guess you got busy, like everyone else, guess I'll wait for another week, hope ya made out ok, lot of damage here in north florida, cutting logs for people to save cost on rebuilding
What are the implications of air dying wood under a tarp (for those that do not have sheds). Is the tarp's benefit of keeping rain off the wood offset by restricting air flow?
Yes, exactly. The best bet is to make a pallet that is wider and longer, cover it with the tarp, and then put that “roof” on top of the stacks. I used to make these removable roof pallets and cover them with roofing rolls like used on mobile homes.
I'll never have a sawmill but this was an interesting video. ( I got hurt in work, laid off, hit retirement couple of years ago-pretty broke 🙄🙄🙄) I'm in central Florida, when I see the amount of really good wood going through chippers after hurricanes it kinda depresses me. I think we have different species of white oak on property ? (around an acre total, house takes up 1/3) Some is incredibly dense, straight and no bugs, 100 ft away, 'water oak' (no idea what it's really called, center almost always rotted out and if you cut off a branch it's like turning on a hose) I cut off a branch overhanging sidewalk, only about 5" diameter, had a gusher for 20 minutes! There are also 'worm tracks around 5/16" diameter where they burrow, the grubs are quite big Got to go get supplies as Hurricane Milton is coming Wednesday. Wife and I are both fed up with hurricanes, may move further north and further inlland. Thanks again for an interesting video. Oh, forgot to mention, I have cut a couple of slabs 18"x2ft from the 'good' oak, pretty sure I messed up by putting it in garage though? I'm not a woodworker (motorcycle mechanic, small engines, construction equipment 10 years, etc)
I have a ford van, it was 15 passenger with windows all around. I removed all the seats so now it’s just a big empty van with tons of windows. I wonder how well you could kiln dry lumber just by parking it in the sun
Strapping will work in some instances but it’s best applied with a structural top and bottom board to apply even pressure to the faces of the slabs, and straps will not provide a force down the centerline of the boards so will not stop bow. Weights on top are a much better solution if at all possible.
What is your sawmill? I’ve been shopping around for one and do not want a manual push each cut. Yours with the little I saw at the beginning before you made it about snakes looks completely automatic. Recommendations?
It depends on the wood being dried and how wet the pressure treated stickers are. The chemicals is the PT stickers will bleed some when air drying, but may not cause a problem. For kiln drying, it would be a real issue.
I have the small Grizzly sawmill. I cut small stuff, 4 feet by 1 foot. I sticker them and strap them with a couple of ratchet straps. I put that package in the back of my SUV. Just don't leave your kids or pets in there! I have had fresh cut lumber go to 10 percent or less in a month.
That's what I'm talking about! Good job. Folks need to stop drinking the tired old "Drying Kool Aid" and think of better ways they can do it faster and better.
It looks like you cut the center of the log including the pith?? I always throw out this part of the log because it is full of defects and don't want to waste time stacking lumber that is a lower grade, I.e. firewood.
Yes, you re correct, and I have said exactly the same thing, many times in the past, "pith wood is disposed of." However, in this case, I am donating the pith boards and other low grade wood I produce, free, to a local charity for their use.
To accompany this part, google "Air Drying of Lumber" from the USFPL. Another way to create "pile bend" in stressed woods is to keep piling pregnant boards or hourglass boards on top of one another. If I can't hold dimension I'll presurface before stacking. From my rougher surfaced circle mill boards this also reduces checking of refractory hardwoods like oak, I think Dr Wengert has a paper on that.. and those are more good reading. Oh, and the "Wood Handbook" another good publication from the US Forest Products Labs.
Your wrong about end of the boards checking ,Up here in Michigan use Ancor seal on every end of the boards and will slow down the moisture from leaving the board and we keep the drying lumber covered on top to keep the rain and sunshine off from the lumber, Been drying lumber for 40 years, Furniture Builder.
@dougscott9524 You’re wrong saying I’m wrong. What you do in Michigan may be completely different from what I can do in Alabama, or what should be done in Arizona. I have made quite a few videos where I discuss the application of Anchorseal and how we use it on a lot of our lumber and logs. However, I am also not wrong in that if an end sealer is not used, then end drying cracks will generally not progress inboard of the stickers. I’ve done it many times and know professional sawmills who do not use end sealer and will use stickers to limit end drying cracks. It would be “wrong” for me not to mention the technique. You are also wrong if you say all air drying lumber must be covered, it all comes down to the species and it’s particular maximum allowable moisture removal rate, its tendency to honeycomb. and if outdoor exposure, such as sunshine, will cause that to be exceeded. Certainly there are some species that can be air dried, outside, uncovered, on hot concrete, in direct sun where the maximum allowable rate will not be exceeded and it will dry with zero defect and very fast, which is the point. We sell 53 different species, were ranked the highest grade lumber producer in the state and only sell zero defect, perfect boards. Not brag, fact, and we sell to the highest grade furniture builders, luthiers, and craftsmen in the country. If you listen to country radio, you are listening to our lumber in about 50% of the professional recording studio guitarists in Nashville. The company who builds the stage guitars for the Grand Ol Opry buys our lumber and recently Brad Paisley’s manager came to buy wood for his new guitar from us. So you are partially correct, many species should be covered, and yes, many species should have endseal, (and not necessarily Anchorseal, there are better products for some specific species), but telling people that is the “only” way to do something is one of the “Urban Myths” I try to dispel. I appreciate your experience, I appreciate your trade, and I appreciate your comment, but please understand, I will never give out techniques I do not use myself in certain circumstances.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama I'd like to leave a comment here thanking you for both the video and your extremely in depth response to a rather unworthy comment. Congratulations on your accolades sir and thank you for being an artisan in a time of hacks.
Good eyes! I assume you are looking at the board rising due to the residual fiber stress in the boards? The board is dimensionally accurate, and and I can remove the stress during the drying process,
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama No, I'm looking at the board dropping as it's cut because it is unsupported. The bottom one ending up thicker and upper ending thinner for the last foot or two. There may be some stresses but if it was supported on the end the stack would have risen, not fallen. I'm just 'B'ing, you have taught me a lot and I'm hoping my sawmill biz can sustain me as a needed retirement job. So thanks.
That doesn't really count, that is a completely different situation, those boards were probably put up green off the sawmill, they are easier to nail up and forced into the shape of the structure as they dry. I have outbuildings using wood I've done the same way, put it up green off the mill, nail it in place, and let it dry. However, when producing millions of dollars of extremely high value lumber, some of which boards may be worth $500 each, and must dry straight and true, care should be taken to get the best quality possible out of each and every board, and these are the ways to do it, especially since it takes very little effort to do it right.
Yes, good catch, this was a highly stressed log and was one of the reasons I wanted to use it for a drying tutorial, to show that all boards don’t come off perfect, but proper drying techniques can be used to mitigate it.
Well, maybe a few points I might argue with you, but I am mostly a bowl turner, and not a lumber maker. Wood is like people, every one is different, and some are more different than others. My favorite wood is Pacific Madrone which has the highest water content of just about any wood out there. It is also known for warping insanely, no rhyme or reason to how it warps, and it is seldom seen as furniture lumber, and more common for fire wood or flooring. I do know one guy who dries it in a solar kiln. He air dries it under tarps for a year before putting it in his kiln. He does strap it down first to help reduce the warping. I had not thought about being able to air dry lumber in 6 weeks, but like you said, you have to be an expert. I do like how when making furniture, air dried lumber will give you shavings from the table saw, either cross cutting or ripping, but kill dried lumber gives you dust. As for cracking, I never had thought about stickers near the end. As for logs, I do not remember ever seeing a log that did not have cracks off of the pith when cut down. Nice video. Oh, some turners will twice turn their bowls, so rough turn and leave about 10% thickness to diameter (10 inch bowl 1 inch thick walls), and then seal and let them dry for 6 months to whenever you get around to remembering. I did once turn a madrone bowl 22 inch diameter, and when it had finished drying, it was 25 by 19 inches in kind of a D shape...
I appreciate your comments. Every species of wood has different amounts of extractives, different amounts of bound and unbound moisture ratios, max and min allowable drying rates, enzymes, stress and just about everything else. So each species has optimum techniques but also have more common techniques that will work for a lot of different species. My techniques are a mix and based on experience but also the science behind it, and people can do very species and thickness drying specific methods, or more general techniques. That’s really the reasoning behind my videos, if people know the “why” then they can understand and do their own “how” and have a reasonable chance of success. None of my videos teach “absolutes, because sawing and drying wood is dependent on so many things, it’s never black and white. I make videos to impart knowledge based on our business, selling many millions of dollars of the highest grade wood in the state, if not the country.and folks can use it as they wish. Thank you for being respectful in your comments, we need more of that in this world.
As much as I like walnut, I don't work with it any more. Makes me sneezy and itchy. Generally for woods, the more strong the scent is, the worse it is for you and you end up getting allergic to it. This happens with the cedar and redwood trees. I do listen to the experts. Some know what they are doing. Some don't.... You do know what you are doing.
Thanks Robert for explaining how to stack lumber PROPERLY
My pleasure
Air dry questions:
1. How high off the ground? Do you set your pallet straight on the ground?
2. Do you cover your air drying stacks? If so, how soon do you try to get it covered?
3. Location, sun, shade, Filtered light, 2-3 hrs of sunlight, etc?
4. Banding air drying stacks, your opinion/recommendations?
Maybe a part 2 on air drying.
Good info, thanks!
Good comments, I will cover these in another video. Thanks!
It would be good to answer the questions when someone takes the time to ask...who wants to wait for the next video to drop..
@@Tigdude It's all good brother. HH always comes through. He knows I'm in no big rush.
Several videos later, I hope I have answered these questions. No, set them on concrete, never on bare ground or moisture evolving material. I sometimes cover my stacks, depending on the species. Generally, I use open sided metal sheds. Banding is useless for keeping lumber flat. It always wants to force them into a circle. Take a rubber band, wrap it around a handful of soda straws, and the straws will form a cylinder. Same thing with lumber. Weight is the best, 3,000 lbs minimum per pallet on top of each stack.
To answer the question in detail will take pages, but I will provide a super short summary below. However, as I try to explain, rules are only rules if the reason behind them isn't known. All rule are made to be broken, and in lumber drying, rules can be wrong in many situations, which is wy so many people screw up their lumber. I don't want that to happen to anybody be me giving cryptic answers. The understanding behind the rules are the key, so me giving short answer is only correct in 80% of the situations, which means rules are wrong the other 20%. So I made 2 more full videos, to specifically explain just some of the answers to these questions. So I said I would do it, and I did.....
There's nothing simple about doins with the Professor. Healed it look simple but he expertly "reads" each piece and placed it appropriately. A lot of hard experiences leads to these videos. Again, thank you for taking the time to talk details.
Thanks!
I've never dried timber in my life before but the other week, I found a large chunk of beech on the beach here in the UK.
Cut some of the spongy outer off & it had some nice spalting, so had it cut into 2" slabs by a local sawmill. 11 pieces in total
It sat in the garage for a week but I moved it outside today & stickered it. Had a vague idea but now I know what I did wrong & will remedy my errors in the next couple of days.
Thanks for the education.
Hello to the UK! Beech likes to move, it can be “grumpy” as it has an interlocked grain, so it’s best dried on a flat surface with lots of weight on it to calm it down.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama Thanks for the advice.
Coincidentally, I'll be about 90 miles east of you in mid November - near Mentone.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama
Hi Robert, You have the best teaching style for sawmilling in all of UA-cam land !! How do you make your fluted stickers, table saw?
Although I could make them, I have a buddy who has a business selling them and I do not want to step on his toes, so buy mine from him.
I would be interested in you talking about how you get your logs, how much you pay, your relationship with loggers,etc. Enjoy your videos.keep it up!!
I may do that, thanks for the suggestion.
Robert, I know how you closely guard your drying techniques, so I realize just how valuable this information is! Can't thank you enough for sharing this wisdom with us. Was the video sped up at the beginning of the video, or did you really blow through that log that fast? It's almost therapeutic watching you doing something you clearly love doing. I'm looking forward to the next great video!
That’s me sawing at actual speed, no special effects, no speeding up the video, nothing but a guy and his sawmill having fun. Just like everything else on my videos, it’s “real.”
Yes you are 100% correct, I thought long and hard about making this one, about letting some of my money making secrets out. However, I had so many questions and comments about air drying, I figured it was time to put out some “real” info, especially since it flies in the face of common myths and misinformation.
Good info. Worked in a sawmill for years as a lumber grader and all he says is excellent info
Thank you.
Best sawmill videos on UA-cam!🙌
I'm a relatively new sawyer. I hear debates back and forth about where to air dry the lumber. Some say full sun and others argue it should be under shade, either natural or artificial, saying that "paces" the drying and reduces drying defects. I would love to hear your thoughts!
There is a lot to it, and I will cover it in a video, but basically, never dry wood where the maximum allowable moisture removal or drying rate is exceeded, which is often the case when a pack of green wood is in full sun.
Great details, makes all the difference --thankyou!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for putting this information out there for us hobbyists. Any information on air drying from a professional is much appreciated with all of the conflicting stuff on the internet. I look forward to the next video, please share more in depth information on tthis subject, thank you again!!!
The conflicting information on the internet is one reason I did it. I was watching video after video on drying lumber, talking to the computer screen saying "No, that is wrong, No, No." You may be surprised that there are very few internet sawyers making videos who actually sell their lumber, they make their money off the videos, and if you want to see their credentials, look them up and see if they actually have a real, viable lumber storefront or lumber business vs just a souvenir shop selling boards they produce and autograph. Not faulting them, they are filmmakers making a few boards, but were are a lumber business making a few videos. Big difference.
Thanks again for another video. A few questions. Is it ok to mix species in a stack or should I start a new pallet? Is it ok to mix hardwood and softwood sticklers? Is sap wood ok for sticklers? When going to a solar kiln should I go right to the kiln or allow some air time first? Stay safe during the storm.
I always air dry first for a couple weeks at least, I prefer six, to flash of the surface moisture and get the EMC down, no matter which kind of kiln is used, even a solar kiln. Mixing species in an air drying stack is OK if they are the same drying group or schedule and if they will be air dried to their fiber saturation point before being put in a solar kiln. I never mix species if I will be drying in a DH kiln above FSP, I simply start a new pallet and if I'm cycling logs, I will just put them on the stacks that have already been started. Sapwood is fine for stickers, and it's OK to mix softwood and hardwood stickers, I've done it for years You just need to make sure the stickers are strong enough to not get crushed under the weight of the wood stacks, and make sure the softwood stickers are not sponges and cause sticker stain.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabamaI was watching another channel and they talked about powder post beetle (I believe) and they recommended that the pallets and stickers be made of opposite materials ie hardwood pallets for softwood lumber and vice versa. They said that once they switched, they never had infestation problems
Awesome video sir,
I will try and find one of my bands with black on the back si you can see.
Appreciate your call this week, very kind!
PS. Martha's a rock star!
Thanks!
Great video Mr. Robert.
If I'm wanting to save some whole logs for future projects/milling do i need to remove bark, end seal and position them up of the ground with plastic underneath till I'm ready to mill them?
Any info feedback would be awesome.
Thx
First, you are aware that isn't the best thing, but I understand, sometimes you got to do what you got to do. From my personal experience, and I have a video coming out this week that talks about old logs and some of the good and bad points, you will see some degrade, so you need to do some things to limit that. So do not remove the bark, that will enhance drying from the log and will increase drying cracks from the sides, bark acts like end sealer. When you initially buck the legs, leave them at least a foot or more long, on each end, so that any end defects that appear can mostly be cut off with a chainsaw when you actually get ready to saw them. Although stress cracks can progress further than a foot, most drying checks will not, no time them off clean and to length when you are ready to saw them. Endsealer can be applied, it wouldn't hurt, and if the logs as high value, you can use "crack stoppers" driven in the ends, but I rarely do that. Do stack them vertically, to get them off the ground, and to get them away from the insects in the dirt that will attack them. So make it hard for the bugs, and you can even spray with an insecticide to keep them away, if you want. Do not cover the logs with plastic as that will promote mold growth. Plastic sheet underneath will serve as a moisture barrier for them ground but will trap rain water, so it can be good and bad. Place and stack the over length logs in a shady, but airy spot, stacked in a nice pile, preferably off the ground (ground logs will have the highest degrade) and as the logs dry, the sapwood will start to check, but the heartwood should remain sound, of many months. however, all things rot eventually, so there is only so much you can do. You know, this would be a good topic for a video.
Smile up , smile down, thanks Robert.
I would be interested in some air drying videos.
They will be coming!
I’m just a hobbiest that is pretty new to the whole saw milling process. We’ve cut a few trees with a local sawmill service and we’ve air dried that lumber inside our shop with a dehumifier and a couple fans running. We’ve been happy with the results but one question that I’d like to hear your take on is about moisture meters. We have two-one with pins and one without. It’s hard to know which one to believe. We’ve even driven pin nails deep into the center of the wood and taken reading of those with the meter that has pins. I’d love to see a video on this subject.
As a rule, pin moisture meters work the best and are most accurate.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama do pin holes in the wood make it unusable?
I couldn’t work for you, you got bees, snakes, scorpions, and it looks way too hot… I prefer the snow up here and working with round logs. But thanks and great video!
Thanks!
I wonder if he either paints the ends with paint or liquid parafin to prevent splitting? I must have too much time on my hands because I could watch this guy all day!
Yes, for high value wood, I always use a commercial green wood end sealer, of various brands and formulations. Most are based on wax and glycol mixtures, to protect tends when green and then later evaporate off in the kiln. Thanks for watching.
I heard there's a way to take in straighten out. Bend boards by placing other boards on top of them to force it straight. Is that true?
No, not without the addition of heat and moisture, much like is done in steam bending. I have tried both, but dry bending with weight doesn't work except in maybe 10% of the boards. It's not worth doing.
Do you band clamp any of your lumber? Currently reading through comments & “?’s” but have not yet came across this one yet.. Thank you for your knowledge & all that you are forthcoming to educate most people that really have no idea of what it is they need to do or how they need to do it.. Many thanks my brother!
You are welcome. I only use strapping to move packs, it doesn’t do much for flattening boards. I’m going to do a video on it shortly.
Thanks for the air drying tips. I've been meaning to ask you questions about it. So, please keep the air dry coming in! This video did leave me with one question though.... Where do you get fluted lumber stickers at?
I used to make all shapes and sizes, but now I just buy them. If you sedn me an email at hobbyhardwoodalabama@gmail.Com and I’ll send his contact info.
Another excellent video. You might address sticker spacing in a video. I see many sawyers that put down sticks way to far apart.
Yes they do.
That is one pretty stack of hundred dollar bills that you built up! We have lots of holy ash locally 😮 😢. And volunteer cedar in pretty close proximity to each other 😢. And some poplar that have a tendency to fall over 😢. Oh yeah two old tired maples that the tops are dying. But you make awesome videos for them what have good lumber 😊
Thansk, and where are you from?
I Guess leaving spaces between the boards doesn' matter ? Thanks for the info .
Good eyes and good comment and this goes the the real heart of my videos, that what many people think are hard and fast rules, are not, if you have the knowledge to understand why those rules were put in place to begin with, and that’s why I make the videos. So some rules are myths, some need to followed, and some are just guidelines. The impact of edge spacing goes down when packs are less than 48” wide (mine are 42”) and if the air drying area has adequate airflow and the stacks are not jammed together, with an adequate stack spacing between packs, they they will be fine. No different than drying a 40” wide live edge slab than drying a 40” wide later of 6” wide baords. Most times. IF the stacks are right, it won’t be detrimental. On the flip side, edge jamming on some species constrains the boards to dry with little crook, so can produce a straighter better board, especially with quartersawn and rift sawn wood. Good topic for a video!
Yoj just put a smile on my face 😅. But to business:
When the sticker is on the end, how far apart should the others be? You put many stickers on short boards, maybe a foot apart?
And what are your thoughts on using ratchet straps to "compress" the stack of boards?
I prefer a16” even spacing on stickers. Ratchet straps do not work well, dead weight on top of the stack is best by far. Straps try to roll the stack into a cylinder, and lose the ability to put down pressure on the boards. For example, take a handful of soda straws and put a rubber band on them, what shape does it become?
that is a beutiful saw...!..like a band saw lay'd over..!..it went through that walnut (which is a hard wood,correct..?)..like butter..!..first time on the channel...very cool..!
Thanks, I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Love the good air drying content. Please keep it up!
Will do.
I been air drying 20 years last may.
smile up down golden info
Thanks
Thanks!
Thank you in advance. We've got a lot of trees down due to helene. Can I cut my trees into cants, stack and saw later? Swamped with trees but don't want to lose them!
Typically, not a good idea because the cants will start to surface check.
@HobbyHardwoodAlabama
I really respect your opinion. Thank you so much for the response! I guess I'll just store the logs up off the ground and try to spray them with an insecticide until I can get them sawn. Cherry, hickory, red and white oak, white pine, sweetgum. It's just about overwhelming!🤣
I noticed that you didn’t quarter saw this walnut. What species is best quarter sawed? I’m in the process of milling oak, pine and cherry and wondering the best milling approach?
White oak, chestnut white oak, sycamore, red oak, cherry, some maple, are about the best. Howevee, typically it’s white oak and sycamore are the standard species.
Thanks! Keep up the good work. Very helpful videos!
Your right. I didn’t realize you were presorting your smiles.
It’s a well kept secret!
Great info Robert, as always!
Do you weight down your air drying stacks with weights to keep those "pringle" boards in line? Use straps maybe?
I see some put a tin roof over their stacks and drape down shade cloth to keep direct sunlight off the sides of the wood...what are your impressions of these techniques? Necessary or overkill?
Looking forward to part 2 of air drying!
I am going to see Nathan this weekend at the Paul Bunyan show in Ohio...learn a ton from both of you guys.
I use other stacks as weights when I’m air drying, up to 4 packs high.
4:03 myth #1, what about discoloration, what cause it if it's not the sticker specie?
i love it's grain, but is there something to do to flatten elm? it bows as hell while i'm sawing it.
even worse when dry.
Most stickers stain is caused by one of two things, or sometimes both. Either trapped moisture and subsequent mold discoloration under the stickers, or enzyme stain where the temperature under the stickers is different than the exposed portions of the boards and the sugars in the wood begin to change color, much like how a fresh apple changes colors once cut. Both of these sticker stain issues can be solved with adequate airflow between the stickers and the wood, and making sure the stickers are not holding moisture like a sponge. So for example, I use random hardwood for all my stickers, as long as it's not prone to hold moisture and cause ,mold, such as basswood. Oak is fine, cherry, poplar, sassafras, etc are all mixed together in my sticker bins, and even the elm you are working with. That's also why I use the fluted or spiral stickers, simply because they promote good airflow between themselves and the board. As far as elm is concerned, its spiral grain structure makes it very difficult to saw straight without it bowing up. Use the fundamental stress management sawing techniques I discuss in some of my videos, and even then, you will still have about a 30% kill rate, but otherwise, you should get a majority of some very nice flat boards.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama ah... i may have use basswood and aspen for ash...
on some board i have gray stripes, some other are lighter in color.
i saw your video on stress.
I will be more vigilant about this next summer, thank you for your response.
Don't need a metal detector around here, you're guaranteed to come away with at least a couple of nuggets of milling gold from the professor. Thank you sir!
Thanks!
Awesome video, thank you! I have a quick question. Do you wait at all for the logs to dry before making the boards, or do you cut the boards right after the tree is cut?
The best time to cut a log into boards is when it is still green. However, depending on species, I may wait for quite a long time. I guess the short mower is “It depends.”
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama Thanks for the reply! That helps. I was concerned that the boards may twist if they are cut from a log that is still green. However, I guess that the way they are set-up when drying prevents that to some extent.
Great video, I learn a lot from watching your videos. THANKS
Glad to hear it!
Sure enjoy enjoying your videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge, it’s very much appreciated.
My pleasure!
what do you do to keep the top layer of wood from from bowing?
Depending on the cut, there shouldn't be much bow, but I stack other packs of wood on top to make sure. You can't be too careful. I have a video coming out with some walnut that has been air drying and shows how flat the top layers are.
Definitely looking for more air drying videos. I dont have a kiln yet but i will in the near future. Ive always had luck leaving lumber stickered for at least a year in my barn. Once i get to use it i sticker it on a shelf near the cieling in my shop once the forced air heat is on amd i can usually achieve 7 to 8 percent thatbway. But only works in the winter and it takes a while, plus its alot of handling. Im starting the process now of sourcing a kiln, hopefully will be up and running next spring. Thanks for the info!
Thanks and I will do some more.
Ok, finally got electricity back on, got a nice meal, settled down to watch my weekly show, guess you got busy, like everyone else, guess I'll wait for another week, hope ya made out ok, lot of damage here in north florida, cutting logs for people to save cost on rebuilding
Actually, we are on vacation, and I brought my laptop to do some editing on the next video, but my fishing keeps getting in the way!
Thanks Professor, learning something new everyday.
Thanks!
What are the implications of air dying wood under a tarp (for those that do not have sheds). Is the tarp's benefit of keeping rain off the wood offset by restricting air flow?
Yes, exactly. The best bet is to make a pallet that is wider and longer, cover it with the tarp, and then put that “roof” on top of the stacks. I used to make these removable roof pallets and cover them with roofing rolls like used on mobile homes.
I'll never have a sawmill but this was an interesting video. ( I got hurt in work, laid off, hit retirement couple of years ago-pretty broke 🙄🙄🙄)
I'm in central Florida, when I see the amount of really good wood going through chippers after hurricanes it kinda depresses me.
I think we have different species of white oak on property ? (around an acre total, house takes up 1/3)
Some is incredibly dense, straight and no bugs, 100 ft away, 'water oak' (no idea what it's really called, center almost always rotted out and if you cut off a branch it's like turning on a hose) I cut off a branch overhanging sidewalk, only about 5" diameter, had a gusher for 20 minutes! There are also 'worm tracks around 5/16" diameter where they burrow, the grubs are quite big
Got to go get supplies as Hurricane Milton is coming Wednesday.
Wife and I are both fed up with hurricanes, may move further north and further inlland.
Thanks again for an interesting video.
Oh, forgot to mention, I have cut a couple of slabs 18"x2ft from the 'good' oak, pretty sure I messed up by putting it in garage though?
I'm not a woodworker (motorcycle mechanic, small engines, construction equipment 10 years, etc)
Cool- it's good to hear your comments and thanks for watching.
What about season? Spring, Summer, Fall? Does the drying technique need to be adjusted depending on the time of year?
Great question ! Almost nobody does it, but yes! 100% Absolutely and without a doubt to achieve the highest grade wood.
I have a ford van, it was 15 passenger with windows all around. I removed all the seats so now it’s just a big empty van with tons of windows. I wonder how well you could kiln dry lumber just by parking it in the sun
The stacks need airflow, but otherwise, it could work like a solar kiln.
What about using straps on single-wide stacks? My lumber is all live edge slabs, roughly the same width, single-wide and strapped.
Strapping will work in some instances but it’s best applied with a structural top and bottom board to apply even pressure to the faces of the slabs, and straps will not provide a force down the centerline of the boards so will not stop bow. Weights on top are a much better solution if at all possible.
Does it matter if air drying boards are on shade or full sun?
Yes, very much so. Some can take it, some species cannot. I will be discussing this and other similar topic sin an upcoming video.
random question... where did you get that plastic tote that you store your dryer sticks in?
Uline.
Thanks for the info
Any time!
great video, please do expand on dry times on future videos
Will do!
What is your sawmill? I’ve been shopping around for one and do not want a manual push each cut. Yours with the little I saw at the beginning before you made it about snakes looks completely automatic. Recommendations?
Yes, mine is full hydraulic, and if I was to recommend a good base model, it would be an LT40.
made me smile, Robert! Doc.
Me too!
Must have missed the video where you showed how to make vented stickers.
Nope, I haven't posted one.
Good video,I like all the information you share
Thanks for watching!
Hi just started out had no stickers. Used 1 x 1/2 in Pressure treated wood is that a bad thing?
It depends on the wood being dried and how wet the pressure treated stickers are. The chemicals is the PT stickers will bleed some when air drying, but may not cause a problem. For kiln drying, it would be a real issue.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama ty you so much for reply love your channel
Where do you get your stickers
Kelvin at kilnsticks.com, he's a friend of mine, tell him I sent you.
I have the small Grizzly sawmill. I cut small stuff, 4 feet by 1 foot. I sticker them and strap them with a couple of ratchet straps. I put that package in the back of my SUV. Just don't leave your kids or pets in there! I have had fresh cut lumber go to 10 percent or less in a month.
That's what I'm talking about! Good job. Folks need to stop drinking the tired old "Drying Kool Aid" and think of better ways they can do it faster and better.
Great advice
I'm glad you found it helpful!
👌merry Christmas
You too!
Does edge to edge distance matter?
I’m not sure what you mean?
For each layer of boards (long edges of adjoining boards), was wondering what you use for gap width. I try to get 1/2".
It looks like you cut the center of the log including the pith?? I always throw out this part of the log because it is full of defects and don't want to waste time stacking lumber that is a lower grade, I.e. firewood.
Yes, you re correct, and I have said exactly the same thing, many times in the past, "pith wood is disposed of." However, in this case, I am donating the pith boards and other low grade wood I produce, free, to a local charity for their use.
Is there any reading you recommend for a new sawyer? Something detailing how to cut certain species.
There are some old publications about circle milling that are pretty good, and WM has a series of videos they sell.
To accompany this part, google "Air Drying of Lumber" from the USFPL.
Another way to create "pile bend" in stressed woods is to keep piling pregnant boards or hourglass boards on top of one another. If I can't hold dimension I'll presurface before stacking. From my rougher surfaced circle mill boards this also reduces checking of refractory hardwoods like oak, I think Dr Wengert has a paper on that.. and those are more good reading. Oh, and the "Wood Handbook" another good publication from the US Forest Products Labs.
How long does it take to air dry cyprus Correctly?
Is it really necessary to buy a kill to dry lumber
Not very long, a few weeks to air dry in some circumstances.
Yes, to properly dry and sterilize any lumber, a kiln of some form is required.
Your wrong about end of the boards checking ,Up here in Michigan use Ancor seal on every end
of the boards and will slow down the moisture from leaving the board and we keep the drying lumber covered on top to keep the rain and sunshine off from the lumber, Been drying lumber for
40 years, Furniture Builder.
@dougscott9524 You’re wrong saying I’m wrong. What you do in Michigan may be completely different from what I can do in Alabama, or what should be done in Arizona. I have made quite a few videos where I discuss the application of Anchorseal and how we use it on a lot of our lumber and logs. However, I am also not wrong in that if an end sealer is not used, then end drying cracks will generally not progress inboard of the stickers. I’ve done it many times and know professional sawmills who do not use end sealer and will use stickers to limit end drying cracks. It would be “wrong” for me not to mention the technique. You are also wrong if you say all air drying lumber must be covered, it all comes down to the species and it’s particular maximum allowable moisture removal rate, its tendency to honeycomb. and if outdoor exposure, such as sunshine, will cause that to be exceeded. Certainly there are some species that can be air dried, outside, uncovered, on hot concrete, in direct sun where the maximum allowable rate will not be exceeded and it will dry with zero defect and very fast, which is the point. We sell 53 different species, were ranked the highest grade lumber producer in the state and only sell zero defect, perfect boards. Not brag, fact, and we sell to the highest grade furniture builders, luthiers, and craftsmen in the country. If you listen to country radio, you are listening to our lumber in about 50% of the professional recording studio guitarists in Nashville. The company who builds the stage guitars for the Grand Ol Opry buys our lumber and recently Brad Paisley’s manager came to buy wood for his new guitar from us. So you are partially correct, many species should be covered, and yes, many species should have endseal, (and not necessarily Anchorseal, there are better products for some specific species), but telling people that is the “only” way to do something is one of the “Urban Myths” I try to dispel. I appreciate your experience, I appreciate your trade, and I appreciate your comment, but please understand, I will never give out techniques I do not use myself in certain circumstances.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama I'd like to leave a comment here thanking you for both the video and your extremely in depth response to a rather unworthy comment. Congratulations on your accolades sir and thank you for being an artisan in a time of hacks.
How will poplar work for my stickers ?
Poplar works very well. I've used it for decades.
@HobbyHardwoodAlabama Thanks ! That's what I have most available now . I figured it's a hard wood with very little color , so hopefully no staining !
Always good tips professor .
Thanks!
So many people never get the stickers close to the ends of the lumber.
Yes! It's very important.
thank you
You're welcome
look what happens at 13:43. hmmm.
Good eyes! I assume you are looking at the board rising due to the residual fiber stress in the boards? The board is dimensionally accurate, and and I can remove the stress during the drying process,
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama No, I'm looking at the board dropping as it's cut because it is unsupported.
The bottom one ending up thicker and upper ending thinner for the last foot or two. There may be some stresses but if it was supported on the end the stack would have risen, not fallen. I'm just 'B'ing, you have taught me a lot and I'm hoping my sawmill biz can sustain me as a needed retirement job. So thanks.
Liken these info loaded vids, air drying 101, gonna put it to good use indeed 👍✌️
Thanks!
Thanks for the lesson. 🇺🇸🇨🇦🌴🍻
Any time!
My tip, make stickers 1x2. That way its easy to know the 1" side
That is a good tip.
Smile up / frown down. I learned good points from your video, but this has better ring to it.
I'm optimistic, I don't like to frown....
My take on air dried lumber is simply this, barn built in the 1800s are still standing, nuff said
That doesn't really count, that is a completely different situation, those boards were probably put up green off the sawmill, they are easier to nail up and forced into the shape of the structure as they dry. I have outbuildings using wood I've done the same way, put it up green off the mill, nail it in place, and let it dry. However, when producing millions of dollars of extremely high value lumber, some of which boards may be worth $500 each, and must dry straight and true, care should be taken to get the best quality possible out of each and every board, and these are the ways to do it, especially since it takes very little effort to do it right.
The simple things are most important. Take away today. Sticker closer to the ends, and smile.
That’s exactly right!
How can you air dry anything in Alabama?
It’s the center of the known universe, we can do anything in Alabama!
13:40 wood movement resulting in two not flat boards!
Yes, good catch, this was a highly stressed log and was one of the reasons I wanted to use it for a drying tutorial, to show that all boards don’t come off perfect, but proper drying techniques can be used to mitigate it.
Have fun
Always with a sawmill!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻thank you
Thank you too!
Well, maybe a few points I might argue with you, but I am mostly a bowl turner, and not a lumber maker. Wood is like people, every one is different, and some are more different than others. My favorite wood is Pacific Madrone which has the highest water content of just about any wood out there. It is also known for warping insanely, no rhyme or reason to how it warps, and it is seldom seen as furniture lumber, and more common for fire wood or flooring. I do know one guy who dries it in a solar kiln. He air dries it under tarps for a year before putting it in his kiln. He does strap it down first to help reduce the warping. I had not thought about being able to air dry lumber in 6 weeks, but like you said, you have to be an expert. I do like how when making furniture, air dried lumber will give you shavings from the table saw, either cross cutting or ripping, but kill dried lumber gives you dust. As for cracking, I never had thought about stickers near the end. As for logs, I do not remember ever seeing a log that did not have cracks off of the pith when cut down. Nice video. Oh, some turners will twice turn their bowls, so rough turn and leave about 10% thickness to diameter (10 inch bowl 1 inch thick walls), and then seal and let them dry for 6 months to whenever you get around to remembering. I did once turn a madrone bowl 22 inch diameter, and when it had finished drying, it was 25 by 19 inches in kind of a D shape...
I appreciate your comments. Every species of wood has different amounts of extractives, different amounts of bound and unbound moisture ratios, max and min allowable drying rates, enzymes, stress and just about everything else. So each species has optimum techniques but also have more common techniques that will work for a lot of different species. My techniques are a mix and based on experience but also the science behind it, and people can do very species and thickness drying specific methods, or more general techniques. That’s really the reasoning behind my videos, if people know the “why” then they can understand and do their own “how” and have a reasonable chance of success. None of my videos teach “absolutes, because sawing and drying wood is dependent on so many things, it’s never black and white. I make videos to impart knowledge based on our business, selling many millions of dollars of the highest grade wood in the state, if not the country.and folks can use it as they wish. Thank you for being respectful in your comments, we need more of that in this world.
As much as I like walnut, I don't work with it any more. Makes me sneezy and itchy. Generally for woods, the more strong the scent is, the worse it is for you and you end up getting allergic to it. This happens with the cedar and redwood trees.
I do listen to the experts. Some know what they are doing. Some don't.... You do know what you are doing.
Please teach us your tricks of air drying!
Will do!
Oh HELL NO to that snake...Brrrrr
Yeah, me too.
When air drying slower is better
Sometimes. However, drying too slow will cause enzyme stain and sticker stain, both of which can ruin a load.
Come work for you?? What's chip paying
He is a tough one to work for, he just stares at me and tells me to speed up!
Limb wood Robert!
Yep
Smile frown😂😢
Never frown when sawmilling, there’s enough other things in life to frown about.
Intro music is annoying.
Your comment is both petty and ironic friend
I fired the band, they weren’t happy.