7 Simple Inexpensive Sawmill Modifications - Woodland Mills HM130 Max
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- Опубліковано 25 кві 2023
- Woodland Mills HM130 Max modifications - electric mill height motor, sawdust collection, and toe board jack. raising and lowering the milled with a drill
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A quick table saw safety comment... At 18:35 in the video you appear to be making free hand cross cuts on your table saw versus using a miter gauge (which probably doesn't have enough cross cut capacity for your 12" wide board). As far as I know, that is a very unsafe operation. It would have been preferable to use a circular saw (cordless or corded) to make those cross cuts, probably using a 12" framing square as a cross cut saw guide.
I could not agree more. That was hard to watch.
I made my own tow board from an old scissors jack for my HM 130 mill. I welded a 15/16" head bolt on the threaded shaft that raises and lowers the jack. I use my impact wrench with a 15/16" deep well socket to raise and lower the jack. Works great.
Torque wrenches are spring loaded, too. You are supposed to dial them back to zero every time you store them overnight. There is a video by Cooks Sawmill that discusses the actual tension of the blade. I don't remember how he actually measured tension or adjusted it, but the gentleman that gave the lecture really knew his stuff. Electric mill lift is a big one. Also is log turner. That kind of chokes up the operation.
I never bothered to clean the sawdust off my boards when they are on the mill. After the lumber is stacked and stuck I just used my leaf blower to blow through the gaps. You can come back after the pile has dried for awhile and blow them off again.
Honestly the Woodland Mills official accessories aren't priced too high, better to just get the right stuff when you order the mill the first time. I did the sawdust bucket mod years ago, used a clear bucket so I can see how full it gets and dump it in my fire pit.
For dust collection, notch the bucket, or pop rivet a plastic or aluminum shield!
Nice mods, thanks for sharing. I’ll definitely use some of your ideas on my HM-122.
My Dad used to say, "put it as tight as you can, and then another 1/2 turn.". I always like that one. :)
Thanks I learned a lot liked listening to you 😊
Thanks
drive a spike in or a large screw and zip off the head for a cheap holder for tools and also a tape measure clips perfectly on the edge of the green steel tube bumper at the back beginning cut end of your hm130 max good video we all learn from and help each other and that makes it great.Thanks!
I think you were struggling with the cordless drill was in high speed setting 2 which has more speed and less torque. Then you switched to low speed high torque setting 1 , but you had the clutch setting on the collar behind the chuck set too low and it was engaging causing it to not be able to lift the mill head. I would try it on setting 1 ( slow) and twist the collar to the clutch off position . You should have better results, great videos by the way! Cheers
I have a mill and the same style jack..unless you go thru and saw every knot flat you destroy anything below the green log bunks ..I learned the hard way..My toe board is the only thing i haven't broken..once in a while a narly log slips off the tractor forks..The wimpy metal that holds the stops on the mill can crack and break..Buyer beware! And you did great on this video!Thanks a bunch!
Brock, that bucket will fill up fast. My solution I'm using rt now are totes that I line up along the mill, i have 8 totes so they each get a little saw dust in each one as my mill head moves down the line. After about 2 logs i dump them all into one or two totes and carry them out. I have my mill set up in a building with concrete floors so any dust that misses the totes i can easily sweep out the overhead door.
Thanks for sharing
Yah, I think I would have found a garbage can that sits under it. You could always rivet a plate to the end to direct the dust straight down. I think a 20 gallon can would fit under there, and you'd be emptying it 4x less.
Brock I’ve seen guys have a battery leaf blower to blow saw dust off of mill and boards
Just spend the 800 for a powerhead instead of using a drill. Just installed mine and its a game changer compared to hand cranking.
Can't wait to see more milling on your channel. I like the way you think, so this should be interesting. 🙂
Should all work out great. Only time will tell
Good ideas Brock ty 🏆👴
I was watching another video by a guy putting a HM122 together looked like from scratch. He said the instructions didn't mention until AFTER he needed to know that the slides are tight and how he should loosen them. Sorry I lost the link but it was someone who'd made his own mill previously with lots of experience milling. He showed pretty much everything he thought needed to be done to have it be adjusted properly and optimally functional.
Thanks for sharing, these are some good tips. I'm not trying to be a know it all, but that was some pretty dangerous table saw use. I know you'll probably say, "I've been doing it that way my whole life" (I get it) but take the time to watch some videos on table saw kickback.
Howdy Brock. Looks like some pretty smart ideas to me. Woodland Mills add-ons are great, but these can bridge that gap until the budget supports purchasing them. I think it would be great to mill my own lumber! But first I'd have to get a property with woods on it... lol. Thanks for sharing 🤠
I have a toe board jack like yours. I did cut off the crank and welded an old socket to it and I use my impact drill to raise and lower it.
Good idea
I use a Porter Cable 2 speed cordless 20v drill set on the slow speed. It has plenty of power to move my saw head up and down.
good video i use silcone spray to lub head. i have a hft dust collector it catches most of sawdust. i still use a car jack. i only use the steel log stops to load logs i made wooden log stops. i did hit the log clamp trying to saw at 1 inch as low as i go now is 1 1/2 unless i unclamp them as i get to them. take care, be safe and well.
I bought a magnetic hook 65lbs to hold the dust bucket. Works great.
Awesomeness, if your marks on your log stops wear off my suggestion is to scribe a line with a nail or blade and then mark that with the marker . It will hold up better and about holding ,paul can always hold the bucket and pore into a bigger bucket or manure spreader when full 🤪
You could screw down a pair of 1x2s, one on either side of the log jack, so that it could slide on the wood and be centered under the log, and stay perpendicular to the log.
Great video, Brock!
Thanks
I was thinking some deep C clamps would work.
I used a couple small bungees to hold my bucket to the mill. I find that I empty it a couple times per log, but I'm not packing it out of a building. If I had a building with power I'd hook an inexpensive dust collector to it and have it empty out with no bag or filters and then move it as needed with the tractor.
I wanna see the bucket in practice!
Have you ever used laser modules in your projects ?
Just came across your channel. Love the height and build of the stand as I have similar back issues.
You probably already figured all this out, but just throwing it out there for others.....
Yellow scale: The left side is an inch scale, with the large graduations spaced at 1". The right side is "four quarter" (4/4) which mills the lumber ¼" oversize (basically 5/4) to allow for finish planing on each side after drying. On the yellow magnetic scale the kerf is not accounted for in the measurements.
White scale: The left side is an inch scale, with the large graduations spaced at 1" + blade kerf. The right side is also an inch scale, except the large graduations are spaced at 2" + blade kerf. The graduations on the white magnetic scale make allowances for the blade kerf.
Thanks for the feedback. Those are the assumptions I made about the scales but with the gray scale I actually get thinner boards than that description would indicate
I replaced my métal post by hardwood this way I never have any problems even if a forget to lower my post the Blade doesnt get damage and it work just as good
For your scissor jack , you could make a set of gibs for it to slide in.
My 130 max fills a bucket up in 2 passes of a 20 to 24 inch log. I'm gonna add a harbor freight dust collector to mine.
The AC drill will not work as well as the dc because it doesn't have the hard stop like the dc cordless drill.
Don't just use a nut, add a thread coupler. You can also buy a cheap motor gearbox. Measure the amps of your AC drill for size guidance!
Sincere question: regarding the 12x piece of wood that you put the scissor jack on, would resting it on the metal mill frame possibly cause the mill frame to be damaged if you lift a heavy log?
No. You can buy the mill with the same kind of jack set up directly from Woodland Mills
My 2 x 12 is actually spreading it on a wider area of the frame compared to their set up
@@RockhillfarmYT thanks. I have a HM130 (with a power head) heading my way. They delivered a HM122, on accident, Wednesday. At least my first dealings with customer service was excellent. (Someone is probably extremely excited to get the HM130. Hopefully they get to keep it).
My HM126 has belville washers that flatten when they are at the prescrided tension, the indicated area is flattened. I haven't ever had an issue with tension or a blade not running true.
Two years going.
I don't have to push machine any more- used winch, speed control, spring for smooth tension ,stop switch (safety) it works! ,have video on my phone can send if interesting
Use a magnetic hook from HF fir 5 gal bucket and a piece of cardboard or metal flashing to divert sawdust into bucket
I wonder if there’s a way to add a debarker to get dirt off.
Time 3:53 how can the tool stick out past the tool?
I cut off the bolt so that it did not stick out past the tool
My shovel works great for sawdust
The 5ah dewalt battery is probably not able to supply enough power to the drill. If you have one of the new bigger powerstack batteries or ones with 21700 cells like the 6/8/9ah packs it may give a boost to the drill.
most 3/8" drills turn too fast and don't produce a lot of torque ; you might be better off with a 1/2" drill that turns slower but produces more torque
also a drill that has good smooth trigger control could be helpful
just thinking outloud 😀
That drill is for sure 1/2 chuck. 3/8 is only on 12v stuff nowadays.
Just a note on video production. When you are speaking directly to us, look at the camera, not at the monitor.
👀
over thinker, just tighten 2.5 to 3 inches.
a picture is worth a thousand words.
Overcomplicating a simple machine for no reason at all.
O yeah. A 5 gallon bucket hanging on a screw is so complicated. Keeping a dust brush on a stand. Making reference marks on your height adjustment bar. Lord help us
The other 2 upgrades are cheaper versions of factory options
A scissor Jack for Log leveling is as simple as it gets. Most mills come with one
You would complain if you won the lottery
LOL wth
@SCOOTER SHOOTER... Won the lottery and complained he had to break all the 100s!
Maybe all the simple tips were too complicated for ol SCOOTER to follow along... Brock maybe u need to slow down a little bit for the SCOOTERS of the world to follow along. SMH
Ol’ Scooter didn’t like the idea of you using his toilet to catch sawdust… It’s a shame there’s always one D1pSh1t out there that just has to make a stupid comment. Scooter may have never seen a carjack (or know how to use one), so I can see how he thinks it’s complicated…. He obviously doesn’t mill lumber. Or, if he does, he doesn’t do it correctly.