5hp Briggs & Stratton Engine Teardown & Possible Cause Of Death
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- 5hp Briggs & Stratton Engine Teardown & Possible Cause Of Death
This is a follow up to this video; • Diagnosis of NON START...
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I don't think the damage on the cylinder wall was caused by carbon - it looks like the engine was run out of oil - this damage is consistent with a lack of lubrication.
@@chickenmaster7069 Una vez que se araña asi como ese asi lo limpies( Honing) se PEGA aun arrancando en frio NO VA MAS The END! B&S Scrap!
can you put the crank in another motor,,
Damn! $400 for a new block??? Canada is crazy expensive.
This is what Briggs & Stratton calls the "Koolbore" engine. No main roller bearings, splash type oil lubrication, and no inner cylinder sleeve. Just aluminum cylinder.
Some people call them junk engines. That's really not the case. I have one on a roto-tiller that my dad had, and now I have it. The way to make these engines last, is to change oil more often than other engines. Make sure it is full of oil before use. These engines do burn oil right from new. Just the nature of the beast! When using these engines, just make sure not to over heat them. Quite easy to happen. Just don't run them at full throttle. Let them cool down after 20-30 minutes of use. Still run mine and it still runs good for an engine made in 1973. One more thing is to pop the head and clean the carbon off the top of the piston. As said in the video.......the carbon severely dammaged the cylinder.
these engine are the best I have them in all my machines the key is to put mystery oil in the gas for upper cylinder lube and to keep the rubber diaphragm in the carb soft
dude i can get you the same exact block for 50$ ----400$ from where ??????
OK, but hammering a rusted crankshaft snout through an aluminum plain bearing is not a good idea. That plain bearing in the cover is now kind of toast. Clean off the rust first with some sandpaper and penetrating oil.
I am noticing, the 5hp Briggs & Stratton Engine, 'over all' is not in bad shape. But yes, If you do the job correctly, it should be good as new. Just sayin'!
Cheers! :-)
i'm not working on the space shuttle
It's amazing how expensive some of those specialized parts can be. The fuel tank you mentioned for $100+ for that roto-tiller cost the same as a new 42-gallon tank for my old Chevy!
I can now understand why it cost so much for an engine now. For the price of that block alone, I could buy another good used tiller, or mower.
$99 on sale for a 6.5 hp harbor freight motor.. I got quoted $129 for that carb ended up getting one off Amazon for $19 with gaskets and 2 day delivery.. Pick your battles, what's your time worth...
Harbor freight does not sell a 7/8 shaft with a taper for a leaf vac
may have to saw a slot in the head to use a stubby screwdriver or something else
Excellent video, also isn't there an option to bore the cylinder (send it out) and then go over size on the piston what it takes to get past the scoring? Better than guessing piston sizes with a hone and having it lock up later?
All your vids are clear, steady and well explained. My preferred tutorials. Thank you.
Man those parts prices are Wicked!!!!
That sure encourages me to keep collecting these engines from the scrap yard!!!
Perhaps I can track you down a used block here :)
You're like the "Eric the car guy" of small engines. Good channel man, subbed!
thanks man!
No prob! I've been tinkering with small engines for years. I know a good mechanic when I see one!
check a dirt bike shop
Such a simple engine, If it was mine I would just touch up the cylinder with a hone and install new rings, assemble and run it.
Dony do you have the equipment /ability to hone a cylinder at your shop. or does it have to be sent out to a machine shop?
yes
The engine symptoms before strip-down would have been a handy piece of info.
Old vid.. but a handy one. I found a big old cement mixer on my property in the woods. It spent at least 20 yrs in the woods. Same engine. Rather than rebuilding tho, I bought (for 50 bucks) a running replacement. BUT... The replacement has a 3/4 smooth shaft... The mixer engine has a 3/4 shaft with teeth for the 6:1 gear reducer. Soooo... I'm simply putting the old crankshaft and crankcase cover, made to accept the reducer box, into the "new to me" engine... Which is super clean and smooth running.
Pretty straightforward with a little patience and research. Including this vid.
doublecheck that one bolt is still not on, sometimes i use a chisel very carefully
Awesome! You are on my top 3 small engine subscriber videos.
the owner didn't want to spend the money to fix it
Cool trick for the flywheel! I have usually put on a puller and pried the wheel in different spots.
wouldn't the air hammer (thats what i call it) damage the crankshaft?
Online 5hp rebuild kits are cheap for these old Briggs engine's, you can over size the cylinder and get an oversized piston as well, OPTION 2 get a Running IC 5hp engine you can find them all over used and swap the crankshafts 👍
nice tutorial, did you get to keep the engine for spares?
not much, shouldn't hurt any though
those prices are why predator 212cc engines are so popular for repowering equipment. that, and the fact that they are a pretty good honda clone. especially for less than a hundred bucks. plus there is a ton of aftermarket performance parts for them. you can easily put $1500 usd in parts into a $99 engine, and triple the stock hp without sacrificing reliability.
You are best off inserting a sleeve, new piston with cast iron rings if you want any life out of the engine. If you hone it you will hone through the chrome and a bare aluminum cylinder will wear quickly. Have done several repairs like that on B&S engines and they have never come back with compression issues.
good price, why do we always pay more?
Dony, i really don't think that cylinder was scored by carbon. Carbon is so light and thin that it cannot cause any abrasion to the iron of the cylinder
hey dony , i have found a gas station that sells non ethanol gas, but its only 87 octane, i would like to make it 89 or higher, foe my small engines, is their a additive i can buy that will bring up the octane ? i have herd that some octane boosters are pretty much fake.
Sometimes it's not a bad idea to use a little emery paper to polish off the rust on the crank shaft between where the flywheel ends and the crank seal begins. Otherwise, forcing out the crank that way can booger up the bearing surface in the timing cover.
there should be inexpensive manual puller on ebay
Where the hell the owner go shopping at ? I go on Facebook and get good running tiller all day long for about $ 150-200 bucks and back plowing .
It's cheaper to buy !
The price of the replacement parts are the reason the chinese engines are becoming more and more popular. $100 bucks for a fuel tank??? I just bought a new 212cc engine from Harbour Freight for $100 bucks
How do you control the amount taken off by honing so you match what oversized piston and rings you intend to use? Seems boring the cylinder is the better way to approach any over size.
just read it, it's unfortunate
Me acalambro 5HP Cilindro de aluminio ,Se pego.. Le cambie el piston y los anillos Hoy se volvio a pegar Mañana lo saco y lo tiro Fin . Tenia uno con cilindro de fierro y jamas le paso nada. Este no puedo con el
Hello I have 5.25 hp briggs and stratton engine. It was runing then after 5 minutes engine shuts off and now piston is not moving . I want to where I can buy the part for this engine please let me know thank you
I could be wrong,but the cause of untimely death of my 5 hp Briggs is the 5 piece connecting rod that no longer likes the piston.
Would the sump cover come off easier if you cleaned up the rust on the shaft before you try to pull the cover over the shaft, better on the seal??
yes it would
Ty old man
Dear, I have 2800watt kohler generator but my genrator not give me proper efficiency what i do ?
Why is an engine like that made with imperial measurements? It must be old I guess
I got a 5hp giant vac leaf blower that over heated and warped the block and that engine has an even harder to find 1in crank shaft
if the cylinder wall is scratched shes junk. u cant hone a aluminum block the piston will last about 4 hours i know form experience.
G'day Don, I was just wondering. After the tear-down, were you able to go ahead, & rebuild this 5hp Briggs & Stratton Engine?
lol, do as I say not as I do
not really, i wouldn't do it
Dony. Gday again from Boo in Perth Australia. I am so absorbed watching your vids.I have no idea right now on most of the great stuff you show, but it's fascinating for me.Here's my silly question. What are those gloves you wear.Are they long lasting or do they just look that way.Let me know please as I haven't found a good hard-wearing glove in Australia. Also, any chance you can make a simple vid about how a simple engine works. ie spark piston valve crank etc. i am 51 and learning finally.ty
it's not a bearing it's a bushing
Is it worth replacing the broken connecting rod for a 4 year old mower, worth $459 brand new?
sorry to bother you again but i have tried to remove the crankcase from a briggs and stratton 35 classic and it will only come off around 1/4 inch and will not move any futher i have tried pullers hammer air hammers you name it and it will still not come off is there something else holding the crankcase to the engine or is it just locked to the shaft?
Thanks again
ooohh i hate carbon build up my lawnmower is 4 stroke ive only just started it just to get it running properly again it hasent been started for ages (few years my petrol has 2 stroke in it but not that much smoke comes out o the exhaust to be honest barely any smoke but i shall be getting pure petrol in it after i saw this :)
It seems these companies don't want people fixing their engines. the prices they charge for parts are ridiculous there must be some kind of law that requires these companies to make parts available to the consumer but there's no control over the prices. they just want you to scrape the old one and buy new.
You are a good man Dony
i can do some, there is a machine shop here that does a good job
@richardwernst. I have no clue what the sponge is for. My best guess is to stop the fuel from sloshing around to much. But with today's gas, the ethanol ears it up and reaks havoc In the carb. As I said I removed the sponge And the thing runs better now then it did without it.
I have the same engine. I'm using a screw in muffler but it rattles off because its on a go kart. The holes for the muffler have to broken bolts in the, it looks like someone tried to drill into it and use an extractor but failed. How hard would it be to get those out or if its even possible.
$400 for a block? You could get a new mower and cannibalize the block out of it for that! And over $100 for a tank? My friend got a gas tank for his truck for a quarter of that haha! I can't believe they get away with charging that much...
Your a rockin mechanic, most shops around me fix stuff with as little effort possible. Iv never seen a mechanic take as much care as you do (unless there workin on thier stuff) Your one of the old breed, keep it up brother
What if there is only one dot on your camshaft and not on the crankshaft and when you pulled out the camshaft both of the pushrods fell out at the same time how do you know which one is which.
I got a 2 stroke demo/concrete saw with a burnt/scorched piston. Very low compression. It cost $350 for a new cylinder/piston kit. Would it be worth it to have a machine shop bore it out with a new piston?
That sponge in the carb. In mine, It was getting broken down by the ethanol I think because my carb kept clogging every 30 minuets of running. I removed the sponge and its been months and it still hasnt had a problem.I
Donny if you didn't know chargermilles007 has a good block piston and rings he is interested in selling
@desertfox2020. On eBay they have the whole engine exactly like this for 99 dollars. A brand new 2012 version of that engine with ohv is 450 dollars new. They are really charging overprice.
My crank shaft dipper broke in the motor. Why would that happen. ?
Ran into big problem took sump cover off and while removing rod from crank one of the bolts got stripped. Just the head. Vise grips didn't help. Anyone know a good trick to get it off??
good grief plastic cam lobes plastic cam gears the thing is done from day 1...
cleaner, parts washer
That was a nice trick using the air hammer to remove the flywheel. Thanks for that.
Take a screen shot of your work! Saves me having to mess with my camera when my hands are dirty!
could make the valve lash different from before teardown, when I take it apart I mark them
Canadian prices here, lol
check partstree dot c
Can you use a piston from a Honda gx 200 into a predator 212cc?
Another one bites the dust...and another one down and another one down, hey... it's gonna get you too...another one bites the dust
lol
yes
When the flywheel shaft does not have a threaded bolt. Looks more like the shaft has outside threads
So the customer wants to get it rebuilded? if so are you gonna make a rebuild video?
yes you could
you might want to clean the shaft with emery paper
the connecting rods on my Briggs has a metal lip on it I can't remove the fastener with out prying if off. is it ok to pry it off?? or how do I remove it thank you
Hey man I have the same problem did you ever figure it out?
thanks
Dony I am currently rebuilding a Briggs motor from a mower and one of the bolts on the cap that is on the connecting rod and crankshaft is rounded out, the other bolt came out easily but the other bolt is not and the head is rounded out, how should I get this stubborn bolt out??
hello sir, I'm repairing b&s 5hp eng mod#1300 I had poor compression 45psi & lapped valves & I put new rings & I honed cylinder & it pops back thru carb & checked timing & lined timing marks but eng is not TDC ? that ok ?? what causes pop?? sound timing off??
Awesome
my briggs 5hp has 7/16 on rod you r rough
Hey. Prompt a gap of valves on the motor 13H332-0146-B8
no
they are a disposable nitrile glove, the thicker they are the longer they last
not at the moment, check on ebay
at the end of this video you mentioned swithing out a gas tank- I don't suppose that is on a video?
Wow I the cost of a short block in Canada is wildly expensive, yes I agree with you ,the oiler rings tolerance appeared to be to tight that would definitely allow improper excessive blow by, I agree that's why the piston was carboned so badly !I'm rebuilding a 1974 briggs 3.5 hp for a fellow he just wants it built to run, so he can have a running antique engine, I was big time surprised all of the o.e.m. parts are still available even the o.e.m. paint in a rattle can is available i want to thank you , for all of the education you have shared with me, on small engines, I have recently been showing the neighborhood kids 9-14 years old how to do the things I have learned by following your lessons with small engines you have been a wonderful teacher to us, again thank you!
dony, do you know the end gap specs for a piston ring in a 4-gallon twin dewalt air compressor D55151? (if you're not sure, any guess would be appreciated)...
I have no idea, try contacting dewalt
I have a Sycamore mower we bought new in '66 with the 3.5 hp Briggs Koolbore. Still a 1 or 2 pull start engine. Life depends on the level of care you give it. Sadly, most don't...