This is one of the best small engine channels, worth more than gold! May this man have as much business as he wishes, because these kind of people truly deserve it!
I used after market camshafts and they worked and still do fine , had a honda with similar problems intermittently changed cam and rocker arms and it seemed to go away .
Glad a saw this, I’ve got my dads wood splitter in my shop with this problem, valves were at 16 I put them at 7 and the problem still exists, I bet dollars to doughnuts the cam is bad, I’ll try the valves at 4 first but 3 thou ain’t gonna make much difference I don’t think.
Don, I picked up a curbside garbage Craftsman tractor with a Briggs engine that had the same issue. I ordered and aftermarket Cam. The quality of the one I ordered was terrible and ended up buying an OEM replacement that worked perfectly. I will have to read through the command see if anyone has found a better quality aftermarket unit and hope they include a link. Another great video! 👍👍👍👍👍
I very much like watching your DIY videos even when you're fixing power equipment I don't own. Because when you troubleshoot possible root causes of parts and/or engine failures, I can at least refer to these videos and, in general, may help me to correct/fix or replace items I may not have thought to consider. Anyway, great video. Keep 'em coming!
Love all your videos, great information. But I have to thank you for the tip on saving tubes of silicone with petroleum jelly in the cap. I finally used a whole tube of silicone without poking holes in the side of the tube! Thanks again
I live in the US and run into this all the time. Mainly on the tractor engines. I’ve used the eBay and Amazon parts many times. Of course I give my customers the price difference and most will go with the aftermarket cams. Since the Briggs are junk why not go with the cheaper option. I’ve probably done over 20 with the aftermarket cams and I’ve never had one come back yet. I believe that it’s just a bad design . I can get them on EBay with lifters and gasket for around 40 bucks. Great video.
That was awesome...I'm about as mechanically inclined as a poplar stump...but always enjoy watching your work and thinking just maybe I'll learn something
I did the repair on 1350 series Briggs. Thank you for the video.I have a question about how much rpm is that engine supposed to have? It seems that mine is reving high and I'm afraid it's going to blow up. Thank you for your time and help.joe Riv
That was a phanominal fix. Lots to think about. And the first time I've actually learned about decompression set up. I'm learning as I go , so thank you for that. As always 👍👍 👏👏👏👏✌️🙃
I have a question about my Stihl weed trimmer. FS45. It pulls really hard. I've watched videos about adjusting valves on "Stihl 4 mix" type trimmers. But --- I am looking at the exploded diagrams of this FS45 and don't think there are valves to adjust? I got it started by removing the spark plug, pulling it a few times, and then replacing the plug. I can't find information on how to fix this hard pull problem. Help and advice, please!
I've even heard of a shortage & the part isn't available. Some sellers & repair shops are swapping the aftermarkets as original. For everyone asking. Nope, you can 'not' buy just the compression relief. You have to buy the complete Camshaft.
The newest Briggs and Stratton engine is on my 2011 troy BILT pony tractor. I have a couple older push mowers so not sure if these are old enough to avoid this problem but don’t have any issues with these motors like this.
Good video buddy that is a same engine that's in my craftsman's blower I haven't had any trouble yet like that but that is good to know thanks for sharing you have a great channel very helpful thanks take care have a great weekend
Is that decompressor fixable with new or salvaged parts? I see it's got little dent, but nothing seems broken other than the missing pin/spring. Could you salvage one and install it into the existing decompressor ?
Excellent video, I did some of these and the most recent was on a Craftsman YT2000 riding mower with a Briggs engine. Could not buy the cam shaft due to back orders for about 6 months, so I bought an aftermarket one. Knock on wood it is still running but I have heard that some of them fail where the lobe is pressed onto the shaft. Thanks for the video.
Excellent video! I landed here because I have the Briggs and Stratton 1450 engine for a Toro PowerMax Snowblower. I rebuild the carburetor and now when I put the snowblower under some load, the engine seems to bog down and not throw snow very far. I rebuilt the carb because I had found fuel in my oil so I figured that there was a problem with the needle valve or one of the rubber seals. I replaced the needle valve, and rubber seals. But I am still getting the bogging down issue when I try to snowblow. Anyone have any ideas as to what the problem could be? FYI. The engine seems to idle fine.
Have had my Craftsman snowblower with a Briggs motor on it for going on 16 years. No issues with it so long as you religiously service it every year. Same thing on my lawnmower with a B&S. Personally, I find them very good motors.
This is one of the many reasons my engines are either Echo, Kohler, Honda, Honda clone or MTD/Cub Cadet/PowerMore. I have one Briggs and Stratton and like most of the others I had, it has issues after only 25 years. To put insult to injury, it's a Vanguard. My Honda engines, in some instances, are over 35 years old, some are flat heads and not a problem with any of them. I mean, there's the occasional instance of cleaning a carburetor but that's not difficult.
These engines have been famous for broken decompression releases and connecting rods. Most of the ones we have gotten in are broken connecting rods so we have many spare OEM camshafts in stock for replacement. I think you are correct that this failure is relatively recent and likely because of manufacturing being outsourced possibly to China. There has been a lot of discussion in the small engine repair community about aftermarket camshafts and consensus is: 1. some have lasted 1 week 2. some are still running . Basically with the labour involved we only use the OEM camshafts when replacing them but normally our customers will give us the snowblower and buy another one. Jake recently did a video on upgrade of a 1350 using 1450 parts.
I've done 12-15 repairs of this type using aftermarket (i.e. Amazon/Ebay) camshaft. 2 of them failed and they've failed in VERY short order (less than a dozen starts of the engine). One had both lobes spin on the shaft and one had the cam gear spin on the shaft. Disappointing but you get what you pay for.
Hey Donny. I've got one for you. My g395xp kills coils after 5-10 minutes of running. OEM coil and a China coil. New plug, properly gaped, new kill switch wire. But yet it keeps burning up coils in minutes. Driving me nuts!
Heard the aftermarket ones can break within a couple uses from several people I just bought a snowblower off my boss 50$ he paid 1600 for it used it 5-6 times and it quit on him I pulled the engine off today haven't gone into the engine yet but I believe it's a camshaft issue starter can't turn the motor but you can pull it by hand hopefully there's not to much damage anyway if he only got a couple uses out of a brand new snowblower and the cam did screw up or the decompresser maybe the briggs an stratton camshaft ain't any better than the cheaper ones il see when I get er apart
@@zlatkovujevic7348 I don't think it was ever all that great, it was just a big selling brand. I still prefer other engines over Briggs. I'm a Honda guy myself but I have had engines from Tecumseh, Briggs, Honda, Kohler, MTD/PowerMore, Echo as well as clone engines of Honda and one that resembles Yamaha, but I could be wrong, however Briggs was always a temperamental engine brand I have had. They would either leak or eat oil, have issues in the fuel systems, bad ignition coils, you name it.
Chickanic did a video about Briggs camshafts (same exact problem, shattered compression release) about a year ago and she says she won't use the aftermarket parts.
Great video, Dony. I have a B&S 1350 on a Craftsman snowblower. It is hard to pull over. Like you, I started with a valve adjustment. They were fine. But I was pretty sure that I could see the extra little dip happening, that the decompressor is supposed to cause. So now I am confused. It would be great if you could show the proper opening/closing/dip of the valves under the valve cover. Thanks!
The small dip is very hard to see since it is very minimal but the easiest way i have found to check it is by having the spark plug out and engine cover removed so i can turn the flywheel easily by hand to check if i see that little bump. By going back and forth with the flywheel i can assure you that you will either see it or not. Guaranteed that the decompression release is broken if it is hard to pull over by hand, normally the electric starter will work fine but have a difficult time if the engine has stopped at the compression stroke. We have many customers that have these broken on riding mowers and they rotate the flywheel by hand on the top cover to just get off the compression stroke to start their riding mower engine.
I don't know what they cost now but I replaced one about 10 years ago. It was about 100 dollars back then. It is in a 21 horse Briggs on a lawn tractor from sears and is still running. Oh and I bought the shaft from Briggs..
I have a snowblower that when I pull the cord but the cord resistant by pulling back. I didn't know is the same problem like this or not. But when I use the electric start it work just fine. I want to know
I always change the Crank seal especially when you have a hard time getting the sump off. Also I noticed that you didn't mesh the governor gear you just used a hammer to put it back together. Not sure how good an idea that is.
Hi Don, noticed from the video that my engine muffler has always been missing the perforated guard shown. Tried to search but couldn't find it, do you know the guard part # ? Thanks and great videos as always.
good tip on not needing to adjust the valves , i had just always thought you had to adjust them to a new cam . if i'm not mistaken (and i often am) older engines didn't have/need the compression release . why do modern ones need it , but older ones didn't ?
Compression release is normally used in higher compression engines. Large professional chainsaws had manual releases for decades. I suspect that modern engines are running at higher compression ratios to get more power with less weight. Tighter manufacturing tolerances probably has something to do with it as well.
Older Briggs engines had a compression release that was ground into the cam lobe. You could not see it, and it only had an effect at the extremely low starting rpm. At operational speeds it still was doing its thing, but it’s effect was more or less nullified by the higher operating rpm. Not Briggs words exactly…….but damn close. Donny may be too young to know about this so I answered you.
I replaced a camshaft on a Briggs 15.5 with an aftermarket cam only because I could not get OEM “Back order everywhere I looked” no idea when it would come, 2 weeks to 2 years I was told. I ordered aftermarket and it’s been 2 years on it with no problems. 🤞🤞I may have been lucky and gotten a good one even though I would always use OEM repairs like this. The cost for the aftermarket was about $60 and came with gaskets.
@@JsRazza Sorry, it was 2 years ago and I bought it off Amazon. I just put in the motor type and scrolled through them and found the ones that had the best reviews and tool a chance. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful. Good luck.
Yep ! Fine tune the valves, keep it well oiled, and Mind The Duty Cycle ! 😳 DO NOT, overload the shredder, or chip thick hardwood or it WILL, STB 💩😝🛏️... !😒
I have seen this problem on a Kohler Courage single cylinder before on a family members engine I have serviced. Adjusted the lash down to minimum and it will crank (fair, not good.) Needs a proper fix, but then again, it’s a Courage on an older, entry level Toro zero turn, so…
Hi Dony, I have a HondaGCV200 Model number HRX217K6HYAA when the engine is cold the recoil starter is easy to pull, but when it gets hot the recoil starter is hard to pull. I checked the valve clearance and both intake and exhaust valves are within the specifications. Any thoughts?
Honda is recalling certain GCV200 engines for a defective camshaft as of September or October 2023. Judging by the date of your post, if you purchased it recently, you're likely included. I have an older one from 2019 that does NOT have the problem, thankfully. Good luck.
Yes Chuck, There are many thousands of both innocent and experienced Briggs users around the world that are completely frustrated by this production flaw. I would dearly love every one of them to investigate a class action lawsuit. I am a professional user and the camshaft compression release failures are driving me insane. I have had a dozen failures in the last 5 years on several engines. Sadly they are not a 5 minute fix. And spares have been very hard to source in the last few years. The good old genuine Briggs makers that are now long gone would be turning in their graves at the thought of the current day mess. It just should not be allowed to happen.
I had no idea about this more recent B&S decompressor issue. Not surprised at anything these days. We have a morality issue in all things……large and small….
It’s too bad you can’t just install a new compression release part since I’m guessing 95% of the cost of the part is for the camshaft itself. It’s probably a pretty delicate part that is easily damaged however.
What if everything is fine and it still is hard to pull start I can take a Rachet and turn it over easy all day long but the moment I take the rope to it it’s hard
Given the time of day this video went live, do you ever sleep? ;-) (Its about 8:50AM EST and this posted 5 hours ago) Good video on a topic I haven't seen before. I have two B&S motors of that type in storage as spares. They were lightly used and I've had no problems so far. It would be nice if we could get the little size 5 widget instead of the whole cam shaft assembly.
Don, you make it so clear and simple but at the same time you don't leave out any important details. I bet my 18 month old grandson could do it. He is already turning his tricycle over and trying to get the wheels off with his little wrench 🔧 Those parts are so expensive, but if a person came to buy the engine they would want it for as little as nothing, atleast that is what I found around around here. I have an engine here with a broken ring and if I replaced the rings I wouldn't probably get much more than the cost of the rings for it. Best thing is to keep them for parts......don't you think
I don’t get why (well I know why) B&S doesn’t fix this issue it’s been around for a while. It’s probably like a $2.00 fix in manufacturing. They need a good class action lawsuit to push them in the right direction
When I bought a lawn tractor last year whit B&S 175 powerbuilt engine and later saw some youtube videos how unreliably B&S engines are, now some scary feeling got to me. I have a time bomb that could hapen same thing to me. Apparently this is common problem of B&S engines. Fun fact though, in stores here there are only three (3) lawnmowers whit B&S engines. All others have or Loncin or copy's of Honda or Kawasaki.
Check out my detailed video here on how to install a fuel shut-off valve on this engine here;
ua-cam.com/video/lz2HSIq6-94/v-deo.html
Already did
What part number do use for the scotch Brite rolock gasket removal disc? There are so many different colors and grades it's confusing.
This is one of the best small engine channels, worth more than gold! May this man have as much business as he wishes, because these kind of people truly deserve it!
Psst, easy guy! We want him to have time to do these helpful videos but I get your point.
He is a great teacher and I've learned a great deal from him. Grateful for his time and advice.
It's good to see the Master have a slight struggle with the sump cover. He could have easily edited that part out. Good Video!
Best small engine videos on UA-cam. thank you Donny
Great troubleshooting and remedy , great video Donyboy!
Thanks Donyboy73 I fix my own small engine my self for years..about camshaft they are cheaper on Amazon around 50 dollars Canadian.
Awesome video Don. You are very patient in how you explain things. God blessed you well in that area.
Can a new decompression lever / trigger be bought and installed on the camshaft? That seems like a big expense for a tiny part failure.
Whats decompression lever
I used after market camshafts and they worked and still do fine , had a honda with similar problems intermittently changed cam and rocker arms and it seemed to go away .
Another great video Don, Briggs should just sell the decompression device only not the whole camshaft.
The once great B & S is not so great anymore.
Glad a saw this, I’ve got my dads wood splitter in my shop with this problem, valves were at 16 I put them at 7 and the problem still exists, I bet dollars to doughnuts the cam is bad, I’ll try the valves at 4 first but 3 thou ain’t gonna make much difference I don’t think.
Don, I picked up a curbside garbage Craftsman tractor with a Briggs engine that had the same issue. I ordered and aftermarket Cam. The quality of the one I ordered was terrible and ended up buying an OEM replacement that worked perfectly. I will have to read through the command see if anyone has found a better quality aftermarket unit and hope they include a link. Another great video! 👍👍👍👍👍
I very much like watching your DIY videos even when you're fixing power equipment I don't own. Because when you troubleshoot possible root causes of parts and/or engine failures, I can at least refer to these videos and, in general, may help me to correct/fix or replace items I may not have thought to consider. Anyway, great video. Keep 'em coming!
Love all your videos, great information. But I have to thank you for the tip on saving tubes of silicone with petroleum jelly in the cap. I finally used a whole tube of silicone without poking holes in the side of the tube! Thanks again
Merci docteur! Between this and the snow blower engine valve adjust. I'm feeling very intelligent now.
Merci, you are!
great video, have a great week end
I live in the US and run into this all the time. Mainly on the tractor engines. I’ve used the eBay and Amazon parts many times. Of course I give my customers the price difference and most will go with the aftermarket cams. Since the Briggs are junk why not go with the cheaper option. I’ve probably done over 20 with the aftermarket cams and I’ve never had one come back yet. I believe that it’s just a bad design . I can get them on EBay with lifters and gasket for around 40 bucks. Great video.
I have used the cams from Amazon and so far with good luck.
You have a link?
Thank you for that demonstration, now I know what's involved
That was awesome...I'm about as mechanically inclined as a poplar stump...but always enjoy watching your work and thinking just maybe I'll learn something
Great info ty
Thanks Dony It's a pleasure to watch your content ! I wonder about the guys who use a claw hammers in engine shops. Yikes!
Another great video Don
The best how-to guy on UA-cam
Wish I saw this last year.
I bought the amazon kit which included the outer casing. I may order that part kit as a back up.
Thanks Don
Is this a problem with the two cylinder briggs also? Thanks for your great vids!
I did the repair on 1350 series Briggs.
Thank you for the video.I have a question about how much rpm is that engine supposed to have? It seems that mine is reving high and I'm afraid it's going to blow up. Thank you for your time and help.joe Riv
I have worked on small engines and it would help any one trying to check the valve gap to remove the spark plug as it rolls over easier 🙂
I wish you lived near me. Would love to learn from you hands on. Thanks for sharing this with us.
That was a phanominal fix. Lots to think about. And the first time I've actually learned about decompression set up. I'm learning as I go , so thank you for that. As always 👍👍 👏👏👏👏✌️🙃
very informative, thank you for this!
I have a question about my Stihl weed trimmer. FS45. It pulls really hard. I've watched videos about adjusting valves on "Stihl 4 mix" type trimmers. But --- I am looking at the exploded diagrams of this FS45 and don't think there are valves to adjust?
I got it started by removing the spark plug, pulling it a few times, and then replacing the plug.
I can't find information on how to fix this hard pull problem. Help and advice, please!
Your videos are really nice and slow easy to follow steps and detailed great job
I have 1350 b&s and has spark fuel but doesn’t fire up
I've even heard of a shortage & the part isn't available. Some sellers & repair shops are swapping the aftermarkets as original. For everyone asking. Nope, you can 'not' buy just the compression relief. You have to buy the complete Camshaft.
The newest Briggs and Stratton engine is on my 2011 troy BILT pony tractor. I have a couple older push mowers so not sure if these are old enough to avoid this problem but don’t have any issues with these motors like this.
Thank You for information and advice
Thank you for this video. I have an MTD snow blower and it is hard to pull, but the electric start cranks it right away.
excellent video, thank you
Excellent video Don., keep up the good work.
Good video buddy that is a same engine that's in my craftsman's blower I haven't had any trouble yet like that but that is good to know thanks for sharing you have a great channel very helpful thanks take care have a great weekend
Excellent video, many thx !! Very helpful.
Well done Don, God Bless you.
Is that decompressor fixable with new or salvaged parts? I see it's got little dent, but nothing seems broken other than the missing pin/spring. Could you salvage one and install it into the existing decompressor ?
Wow excellent video. Thank you
Nice presentation! Thanks 😊
Some aftermarket cams work fine but then you might get one that will fail,it's a 50/50 draw,just never know,OEM is best but sometimes hard to get
I do have a question is this worth getting fixed at a small engine repair shop like yours? Thanks again Kyle don't own one just was curious
Thanks for the great tutorials
Nice job and tutorial Don.
Excellent video, I did some of these and the most recent was on a Craftsman YT2000 riding mower with a Briggs engine. Could not buy the cam shaft due to back orders for about 6 months, so I bought an aftermarket one. Knock on wood it is still running but I have heard that some of them fail where the lobe is pressed onto the shaft. Thanks for the video.
Excellent video! I landed here because I have the Briggs and Stratton 1450 engine for a Toro PowerMax Snowblower. I rebuild the carburetor and now when I put the snowblower under some load, the engine seems to bog down and not throw snow very far. I rebuilt the carb because I had found fuel in my oil so I figured that there was a problem with the needle valve or one of the rubber seals. I replaced the needle valve, and rubber seals. But I am still getting the bogging down issue when I try to snowblow. Anyone have any ideas as to what the problem could be? FYI. The engine seems to idle fine.
I have a Kawasaki FH500V 17 HP that’s doing the same thing. If the valve lash is within spec, what should I check next? Thanks.
Nice tutorial. Thanks for the clear, easy to understand instructions.
Another excellent video. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Have had my Craftsman snowblower with a Briggs motor on it for going on 16 years. No issues with it so long as you religiously service it every year. Same thing on my lawnmower with a B&S. Personally, I find them very good motors.
Great video. Compression was my first thought after that I had no idea. Great video
This is one of the many reasons my engines are either Echo, Kohler, Honda, Honda clone or MTD/Cub Cadet/PowerMore. I have one Briggs and Stratton and like most of the others I had, it has issues after only 25 years. To put insult to injury, it's a Vanguard. My Honda engines, in some instances, are over 35 years old, some are flat heads and not a problem with any of them. I mean, there's the occasional instance of cleaning a carburetor but that's not difficult.
What grit are the 3m scotch brite pads?
Amazing Dony!
These engines have been famous for broken decompression releases and connecting rods. Most of the ones we have gotten in are broken connecting rods so we have many spare OEM camshafts in stock for replacement. I think you are correct that this failure is relatively recent and likely because of manufacturing being outsourced possibly to China. There has been a lot of discussion in the small engine repair community about aftermarket camshafts and consensus is: 1. some have lasted 1 week 2. some are still running . Basically with the labour involved we only use the OEM camshafts when replacing them but normally our customers will give us the snowblower and buy another one. Jake recently did a video on upgrade of a 1350 using 1450 parts.
I've done 12-15 repairs of this type using aftermarket (i.e. Amazon/Ebay) camshaft. 2 of them failed and they've failed in VERY short order (less than a dozen starts of the engine). One had both lobes spin on the shaft and one had the cam gear spin on the shaft. Disappointing but you get what you pay for.
@@JShep-yu3ki Thanks for this comment we have found basically the same thing at Eliminator Performance in Ontario, Canada.
Hey Donny. I've got one for you. My g395xp kills coils after 5-10 minutes of running. OEM coil and a China coil. New plug, properly gaped, new kill switch wire. But yet it keeps burning up coils in minutes. Driving me nuts!
What is your coil gapped at?
@@watermanone7567 Same as the last 200 saws I built. Business card. lol
Nice job. 👍
Heard the aftermarket ones can break within a couple uses from several people I just bought a snowblower off my boss 50$ he paid 1600 for it used it 5-6 times and it quit on him I pulled the engine off today haven't gone into the engine yet but I believe it's a camshaft issue starter can't turn the motor but you can pull it by hand hopefully there's not to much damage anyway if he only got a couple uses out of a brand new snowblower and the cam did screw up or the decompresser maybe the briggs an stratton camshaft ain't any better than the cheaper ones il see when I get er apart
Lam.Tot Well.Done
Taryl is right when he refers to them as a “Breaks and Scrap’em” engine….😂
They have gone downhill fast in the last few years, Chinese made. I still prefer the older flathead Tecumseh snow blower engines.
Yeah, NO other Manufacturer has ANY problems, JUST B&S, OMG
What a shame, B&S was one of the best engine builders for lawn mowers and now there are really gone downhill.
@@zlatkovujevic7348 🤣
@@zlatkovujevic7348 I don't think it was ever all that great, it was just a big selling brand. I still prefer other engines over Briggs. I'm a Honda guy myself but I have had engines from Tecumseh, Briggs, Honda, Kohler, MTD/PowerMore, Echo as well as clone engines of Honda and one that resembles Yamaha, but I could be wrong, however Briggs was always a temperamental engine brand I have had. They would either leak or eat oil, have issues in the fuel systems, bad ignition coils, you name it.
Chickanic did a video about Briggs camshafts (same exact problem, shattered compression release) about a year ago and she says she won't use the aftermarket parts.
Great video, Dony. I have a B&S 1350 on a Craftsman snowblower. It is hard to pull over. Like you, I started with a valve adjustment. They were fine. But I was pretty sure that I could see the extra little dip happening, that the decompressor is supposed to cause. So now I am confused. It would be great if you could show the proper opening/closing/dip of the valves under the valve cover. Thanks!
The small dip is very hard to see since it is very minimal but the easiest way i have found to check it is by having the spark plug out and engine cover removed so i can turn the flywheel easily by hand to check if i see that little bump. By going back and forth with the flywheel i can assure you that you will either see it or not. Guaranteed that the decompression release is broken if it is hard to pull over by hand, normally the electric starter will work fine but have a difficult time if the engine has stopped at the compression stroke. We have many customers that have these broken on riding mowers and they rotate the flywheel by hand on the top cover to just get off the compression stroke to start their riding mower engine.
I don't know what they cost now but I replaced one about 10 years ago. It was about 100 dollars back then. It is in a 21 horse Briggs on a lawn tractor from sears and is still running. Oh and I bought the shaft from Briggs..
👍👍👍Thanks
Thanks for posting. Keep naming and shaming Briggs on this issue.
I have a snowblower that when I pull the cord but the cord resistant by pulling back. I didn't know is the same problem like this or not. But when I use the electric start it work just fine. I want to know
Is it possible to just get the decompression parts and then install the original camshaft?
no it's part of the camshaft, not sold separately
I always change the Crank seal especially when you have a hard time getting the sump off. Also I noticed that you didn't mesh the governor gear you just used a hammer to put it back together. Not sure how good an idea that is.
Hi Don, noticed from the video that my engine muffler has always been missing the perforated guard shown. Tried to search but couldn't find it, do you know the guard part # ? Thanks and great videos as always.
good tip on not needing to adjust the valves , i had just always thought you had to adjust them to a new cam . if i'm not mistaken (and i often am) older engines didn't have/need the compression release . why do modern ones need it , but older ones didn't ?
Compression release is normally used in higher compression engines. Large professional chainsaws had manual releases for decades. I suspect that modern engines are running at higher compression ratios to get more power with less weight. Tighter manufacturing tolerances probably has something to do with it as well.
Older Briggs engines had a compression release that was ground into the cam lobe. You could not see it, and it only had an effect at the extremely low starting rpm. At operational speeds it still was doing its thing, but it’s effect was more or less nullified by the higher operating rpm. Not Briggs words exactly…….but damn close. Donny may be too young to know about this so I answered you.
@@37yearsofanythingisenough39 thanks .
@@frankenberry9670 thank you .
What "grit" scotch brite wheel do you use to remove the gasket?
the fine green pads
great vid
I replaced a camshaft on a Briggs 15.5 with an aftermarket cam only because I could not get OEM “Back order everywhere I looked” no idea when it would come, 2 weeks to 2 years I was told. I ordered aftermarket and it’s been 2 years on it with no problems. 🤞🤞I may have been lucky and gotten a good one even though I would always use OEM repairs like this. The cost for the aftermarket was about $60 and came with gaskets.
Can you post a link?
@@JsRazza Sorry, it was 2 years ago and I bought it off Amazon. I just put in the motor type and scrolled through them and found the ones that had the best reviews and tool a chance. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful. Good luck.
thanks for the feedback!
@@donyboy73 👍👍
Would this also happen on a Tecumseh? I have a leaf chipper that has a 10HP Tecumseh that is incredibly hard to pull over.
Great video,
could you just replace the compression release item on the original cam
Just to add to the list of pieces of equipment with this briggs issue... Leaf Vacuum/chipper!
Yep ! Fine tune the valves, keep it well oiled, and Mind The Duty Cycle ! 😳 DO NOT, overload the shredder, or chip thick hardwood or it WILL, STB 💩😝🛏️... !😒
Dony this problem still existing on all engines or just some model. Thanks.
Mostly B&S Inteks... Snow Series, and Chipper Shredders... 😕
I have seen this problem on a Kohler Courage single cylinder before on a family members engine I have serviced. Adjusted the lash down to minimum and it will crank (fair, not good.) Needs a proper fix, but then again, it’s a Courage on an older, entry level Toro zero turn, so…
Hi Dony, I have a HondaGCV200 Model number HRX217K6HYAA when the engine is cold the recoil starter is easy to pull, but when it gets hot the recoil starter is hard to pull. I checked the valve clearance and both intake and exhaust valves are within the specifications. Any thoughts?
Honda is recalling certain GCV200 engines for a defective camshaft as of September or October 2023. Judging by the date of your post, if you purchased it recently, you're likely included. I have an older one from 2019 that does NOT have the problem, thankfully. Good luck.
Intek 101 !!! 🕺🕺🕺
Why oh why would Briggs continue to have the same problem without a fix...poor management....
Yes Chuck, There are many thousands of both innocent and experienced Briggs users around the world that are completely frustrated by this production flaw. I would dearly love every one of them to investigate a class action lawsuit. I am a professional user and the camshaft compression release failures are driving me insane. I have had a dozen failures in the last 5 years on several engines. Sadly they are not a 5 minute fix. And spares have been very hard to source in the last few years. The good old genuine Briggs makers that are now long gone would be turning in their graves at the thought of the current day mess. It just should not be allowed to happen.
@@SuperTwarn SOMEONE should organize a massive protest ( Donyboy…Steve’s small engine saloon ) and get signatures to send to Briggs…!!!!!
I had no idea about this more recent B&S decompressor issue. Not surprised at anything these days. We have a morality issue in all things……large and small….
Ye , awful materials used in the camshaft manufacturing
It’s too bad you can’t just install a new compression release part since I’m guessing 95% of the cost of the part is for the camshaft itself. It’s probably a pretty delicate part that is easily damaged however.
Donyboy73. In this case is not necessary to change a seal oil.? Or is a challenge if is not liquid?
the oil seal was good
@@donyboy73 excellent.thanks!! Salud2
After changing new piston and cylinder. Scratch again why?
What if everything is fine and it still is hard to pull start I can take a Rachet and turn it over easy all day long but the moment I take the rope to it it’s hard
Dony, your not close to the border to drive across and buy it in the USA?
Given the time of day this video went live, do you ever sleep? ;-) (Its about 8:50AM EST and this posted 5 hours ago)
Good video on a topic I haven't seen before. I have two B&S motors of that type in storage as spares. They were lightly used and I've had no problems so far. It would be nice if we could get the little size 5 widget instead of the whole cam shaft assembly.
Nothing is made to last anymore. It’s a shame!
Does this engine have plastic gas tank?
Yes
@@donyboy73 I took the head off this L head and the camshaft decompression was bad. If it was mine I would fix it.
Don, you make it so clear and simple but at the same time you don't leave out any important details. I bet my 18 month old grandson could do it.
He is already turning his tricycle over and trying to get the wheels off with his little wrench 🔧
Those parts are so expensive, but if a person came to buy the engine they would want it for as little as nothing, atleast that is what I found around around here.
I have an engine here with a broken ring and if I replaced the rings I wouldn't probably get much more than the cost of the rings for it.
Best thing is to keep them for parts......don't you think
I don’t get why (well I know why) B&S doesn’t fix this issue it’s been around for a while. It’s probably like a $2.00 fix in manufacturing. They need a good class action lawsuit to push them in the right direction
18:42 I have had the same problem with a Certified (Canadian Tire) snowblower with a Champion 224cc engine.
you may need the valves adjusted
You figure the metal ones would be better than plastic cam shafts.
you probably should have changed that crank seal as well
When I bought a lawn tractor last year whit B&S 175 powerbuilt engine and later saw some youtube videos how unreliably B&S engines are, now some scary feeling got to me. I have a time bomb that could hapen same thing to me. Apparently this is common problem of B&S engines. Fun fact though, in stores here there are only three (3) lawnmowers whit B&S engines. All others have or Loncin or copy's of Honda or Kawasaki.