Omg. I've just met my Male counterpart.....wow I just did the almost exact thing to my toilet yesterday, then i see this video. Amazing to meet another perfectionist , thanks for this video! I love your artwork. . Sculpture is beautiful.
You are the most miserable man in all of home repair videos and I can't get enough of it!! I'm willing to donate my full head of hair to you if you do another video!
That was the best video on toilet flange repair, I've seen yet! You have that uncanny natural ability of making sarcastic criticisms towards an industry, very humorous and entertaining to watch, at the same time making your point. If this was Hollywood, you would be the James Woods of toilet repairs...lol
YES! Why is nearly everything toilet related designed so shittily? From chronically leaking flapper valves to disintegrating wax rings to pvc flanges that crack to the entire flange seal system.....it's all so terrible. Clearly the toilet itself should have a spout that goes down into the pipe instead of a separate seal that, you know, you hope holds but is obvious the source of constant replacement.
No pun intended!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 why why why 😫😫😫so true I have a 50 year old toilet that someone just sank flange bolts into the concrete without using a flange 😳 Happy Sunday, Cheers!
Regarding the wax rings with plastic funnel flanges: Apparently a lot of people are installing them UPSIDE DOWN! The plastic funnel flange goes DOWN inside the standpipe, NOT UP into the toilet itself! The flange directs the flow of water DOWN (and more importantly) INSIDE the standpipe, not out into or onto your subfloor or floor.
Absolutely true!! The wax is the seal for liquids AND gas. The plastic piece is a FUNNEL and must be pointed down into the standpipe. It shows pointing UP on the box as most folks install it to the bottom of the toilet which is usually upside down at that point. I install the wax funnel to the floor flange with the plastic inserted into the pipe. THEN place the toilet over the wax ring and secure it with the bolts.
The toilet flange is short to prevent damage when the toilet is placed on any hard surface. You break the flange - you buy a new toilet. Thus the brilliant idea of a plastic FUNNEL mounted with the wax ring to extend the flange DOWNWARD into the sewer pipe. Also you must be sure the floor flange is mounted firmly to the subfloor. And near level side to side. The wax ring can compensate for a LOT of misalignment of the flange. Final key detail: The bottom of the toilet housing must be flush with the floor all around the outside edge. This helps the weight of the tank and bowl to stabilize the toilet. Also a bead of adhesive caulk will help keep the toilet secure. But it is the CLOSET BOLTS thru the flange AND the SCREWS holding the flange to the floor that prevent the toilet from rocking. The key is to snug the two bolts enough to hold the bowl firmly to the floor.....without cracking the porcelain!!
The DJ, I appreciate your informative comment. My tenant said that her toilet is loose. She tried to tighten one of the two screws on the bottom of the toilet and that screw came out. I was hoping to go buy a flange if that one was damaged, but according to you if the flange is broke I will have to get a new toilet. I will have my son remove the toilet and take a look. Or maybe I can get a new screw hopefully for the flange if it's damaged. Hopefully won't have to get a new toilet.
@@karenkramer3760 he isn't saying the toilet is broken, he is saying IF the toilet had a larger/longer opening like the video said, if the flange broke the toilet would break. likely the person broke the bolt going through the flange, or the flange is not secured to the floor allowing for the toilet to move back and forth
You are a cool dude...love to go fishing with you...but...Everything you did and said is wrong...sorry. (master plumber here 37 yrs experience) 1. A wax ring with a funnel built-in is for non-plumbers doing what a real plumber should do. They're ok...but the problem is, sometimes the funnel doesn't fit inside the pipe and the black plastic gets crumpled and ruins the wax seal. 2. No need to fill in around the "closet ring"....waste of time and energy...unless the ring is loose and lifts up. 3. No need to put that stuff on the bottom of the bowl. 4. No need to stack wax rings any higher than an 1-1/2" above the floor. 5. If the ring seem too high, set the bowl on top of it WITHOUT any wax yet.... and see if it teeters on it....if so....you'll FOR SURE need to shim the toilet up. 6. If the ring is a little crooked...it's ok as long as it's not too high anywhere and teeters. (build up the wax a little on the low side to compensate). 7. You put the plastic "China Cap" holders (washers) on upside down on the closet bolts. Now the china caps won't snap on. 8. You didn't check to see if the toilet bowl needs to be shimmed (most important step of all). 9. When caulking around the base of the bowl, just leave out a little in the back and that will be the "leak indicator" you wanted. 10. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@mplum590 You don't need to fill in around the outside of ring. The seal is made on top of the ring with wax. Make sure the ring is fastened down pretty well and doesn't lift up. Put one or 2 wax rings down so that there is ample Squish when you set the bowl down. Using water proof shims (some plumbers use coins, I use small squares of floor tile and maybe some washers) to remove ANY wobble BEFORE you tighten the bolts down (gently)....not too tight! The bowl should feel pretty solid.
@@devilshaircut9 risky....sometimes the ring falls off just before you set the bowl down and now it's way off center....and now you just bought a ceiling repair.
I would have taken out that flange reset a new one with the bottom of the flange being the same elevation as to finish tile, I would have filled in that Gap with hydraulic cement to keep it sturdy when you reset the new one . After 28 years of being a plumber most of the time commodes leak because flanges are not set the proper elevation therefore your wax ring does not smash all the way as recommended . I use plaster of Paris to seal around the base of the commode so that it will fill the gaps due to finish floor not level, I've done this many many times for apartment complex clinics hospitals and so on . I was taught by an old plumber and if I had to walk to the truck 20 times to get it right he would make me do that . The chances of my commode leaking after I was done we're very slim because I knew that that flange was set property . Never used two wax rings because it will smash inward and cause you problems later . I'm too old now and too tired to do things twice . Best of luck
Thanks for the tips. Cutting out that cast iron pipe to set a new one is beyond my skill set. I'think I'm going to pop off the toilet and take a look at it now that a couple of years have passed. My leak detector (the tunnel in the grout) has not shown any leaks, but I've gotten several comments on here telling me I did things wrong. I didn't invent most of this stuff, I just took advice from plumbers.
@@MartyPollio I would be uneasy using two wax rings, especially without the attached horn. You might get a lot of excess wax in the pipe when you push the toilet down to seat it.
Cheyenne - Well there's the key - "I was taught by an old plumber and if I had to walk to the truck 20 times to get it right he would make me do that." Great lessons. I'm not a plumber myself, but my grandfather taught me how to properly prepare and solder copper pipes when I was 10 years old. I haven't done thousands, but probably a few hundred and NEVER had a leak. It's good to see that there is still talent around!
I swear I said those exact words to a friend today when I mentioned my frustrations with plumbing parts both old (galvanized) and new (the new plastic stuff) and of course the bloody wax ring. There should me no reason all of this stuff is still so primitive. Looks like I have some things to patent. Thanks for your video.
Your opening sounds all to familiar :-)......I found your video entertaining, educational, a little sarcastic humor along with a few hacks thrown in..wow, great job ...got a few laughs from it too..oh, and I learned a thing or 2 .. Thanks.. :-)...
"Chances are, if you've come knocking, your toilets rocking" - Well shot video and good production. Assuming you started this project because your toilet was rocking, I'm not sure you addressed the root cause. My comments may be useful for another viewer who has a toilet that is rocking. An old flattened out wax ring that is letting fumes or water out is never the cause of the rocking, it's the result of the rocking. The toilet rocks because the individual floor tiles under the toilet are not level, flat or on the same plane and/or the bottom perimeter of the toilet itself is not flat or on the same plane **. Other than buying a new toilet and hoping it is more "flat" or pulling up all the tile around the toilet and reinstalling it taking extra care to make it flat; there is a very cheap and simple fix...buy some toilet shims. The big box stores have them as does amazon. Some are made of a very hard plastic that are very difficult to cut once in place but they will never compress, others are a softer rubberized material that you can cut in place with a utility knife / razor blade (I don't know if they compress over time). If the toilet is rocking front to back, slid a shim under the toilet at the front or the back, where there is a gap between the bottom of the toilet and the floor. Then trim the shim so it's not sticking out. If the toilet is rocking side to side, then find the gap on the right side or left side and slide in a shim. The shim is not supposed to lift the toilet, just to stop it from moving down. Don't hammer the shim in or force it in. When sliding it in by hand, when you meet firm resistance your are finished, just cut off the part stick out and leave it. If you force it in, you are now starting to lift the toilet off the wax ring that has no rebound abilities and causing your problems all over again. If you don't like the look of the shim after it is trimmed off, you can run some caulking around the toilet but don't put any on the back so if a leak occurs, it has a place to exit where you can eventually see it. If you seal it up all the way around it could become a petri dish to grow all sorts of interesting things if a leak ever happens. Search UA-cam for Shimming a toilet to get a visual of the process. ** A 3rd and more rare possibility for a rocking toilet ( that would only follow someone who just removed and reinstalled the toilet or you just moved into a house or apartment) is the use of a product other than a conventional wax ring that is too thick for the job. There are plastic foam and rubber products that are made as substitutes for the messy wax ring. Some people love them, some hate them but they are more sensitive to the gap between the bottom of your toilet where the horn comes out and the top of your flange. Some flanges are above the floor, at the floor or below the floor level. The problem with this plastic/foam/rubber seal happens more frequently when the flange is above the floor level leaving too little space for the plastic/foam/rubber to compress. The toilet base does not get all the way down to the floor level and you have a rocking toilet that you need to shim or you then try to close that small gap between the toilet base and the floor by screwing down the nuts on the closet bolts on each side of the toilet resulting in a cracked toilet bowl or a broken flange. There is no torque specification for tightening these nuts that will protect you from breaking the flange or breaking the toilet. That's where the experience of a Pro or someone who has does these things multiple times has the feel to know when to stop tightening. If you do an excellent job fixing the the rocking with shims, there is no need to tighten the nuts much beyond hand tight. If you are heavy and older and have leg strength problems lowering yourself down to the seat without a final drop that also includes a slight backward motion Or when getting up you are inadvertently pushing off the toilet, putting backwards pressure on the toilet you can cause problems with the seal. I'd suggest cutting a short piece of 1 x 6 x ( the distance from the back of your toilet to the wall or trim board) and placing that board flat on the floor to stop any backward movement of the toilet. A PVC 1 x 6 plank would be the best as it is immune to moisture and water or make it out of wood but seal it with several coats of paint.
Thank you. You are just the right amount of appropiately grumpy and hilarious. About to set a toilet by myself and the straw trick will probably cut down on my swearing.
I may have blocked the line with putting double stacked rings. May smash down into the drain and cause problems in future also. They have thick rings to use and never use rings with the funnels
The seal is wax, to allow for difference in flange height to bowl (the flange being out of level, you can just stick a wax seal on and it will compensate). The neck on the bottom of the bowl isn't longer because sometimes you have to off set the flange or use an offset flange. However nice idea on the straws.
A fun video. I had a few observations: 1) Liked the straw idea. Next time make the straws different lengths that way you can engage one straw at a time as you drop the toilet down onto the flange. It is hard to see both straws at the same time while trying to look around the bowl. 2) Two wax rings is a bad idea. Next time get a toilet flange spacer kit and raise the top surface of the toilet flange to 1/4"-3/8" above the surrounding floor surface. There are lots of videos on how to install toilet spacers on UA-cam. Wax is too weak to reliably hold back the water when it gets too thick. 3) Wax rings are approximately 1" thick. Ideally they compress down to approximately 3/8"-1/2" thick during installation. If your toilet flange is only 1/8" out of level there is plenty of wax to accommodate that variance in flange height across the sealing surface.
R J Serra- You are correct about being difficult to be able to see both toilet hold down bolts when lowering the heavy toilet down. This is the reason I never attempt set a complete toilet; my back will not handle holding up heavy toilet and wax ring is subject to damage while I am fumbling with the toilet. I have to set bowl only and then replace tank components as needed.
I love your tips and design solutions too. I find most things designed horribly. I’m sick of companies like Apple that put chips in their charging cords that won’t even let you charge your phone if the chip is bad or if you get a 3rd party cable. Apple has made billions by extorting people into buying countess cords and filling up landfills around the world with defective cords. Apple has zero social consciousness. It’s ran by psychopaths. The reason why so many products are designed pathetically are for the reasons you pointed out about toilets. It’d put overpay plumbers out of business. And I bet you’re right about the reason for no redesigns on toilets is so they fit flat on a showroom floor. Don’t get me started on the 10,000 different screws when a handful of different ones would work in 99% of cases. I’m so sick of abusive capitalism. I’m also sick of those who believe unregulated capitalism is a god. There is no freedom when corporations feed you crap and tell you that you have to like it. Great video. I found a lot funny because what you said is true.
I feel the same way as you do about Apple. I think they make really good products, but they sabotage them so you have to keep buying new stuff. That's why I don't buy their products, but I have to admit, their M-series chips are better than Intel. Anyway, thanks for watching my video.
LOL. When he started pushing down on the wax, I was like "OMG! Where is all that wax going?" :-D One heavy duty ring wudda been fine bro, but hey, you be you!
Joe Guetzloff I like to install flanges to the sub floor and cut the tile right around it. Then grout right around the flange like it is part of the tile floor. I’ll throw in a jumbo wax and it works perfect. Never had an issue and because the flange is directly on the sub floor it stays tight. New subfloors and new installs though.
Marty next time get a container of plumbers putty roll it in your hand till looks like spaghetti noodle then put it around the base where toilet meets the floor. Then when you sit on it any excess will squeeze out cut it off with a razor. The let it harded your toilet will not rock anymore dont forget to level it before it hardens.
I love this guy - especially the monologue at the end. Like seriously, 21st century and it's still impossible for the world to come up with a better solution than wax lol
I agree! I said the same thing when I replaced a toilet for the first time. There are definitely better ways to have a good seal. Buttttt maybe you don't want a perfect seal. What if you had a clog past the toilet in the pipe, you probably want to know about it before it causes bigger problems down stream. Not having a perfect seal would be like a mechanical fuse/warning before you get totally screwed. Just a theory not a pro...
@@paulmonk7820 sure you don't but I bet you would rather have it on some tile floor before you had it on a ceiling. That is if your toilet is upstairs as mine is.
I had a further observation while re-watching your video. It appeared that when you installed the reinforced was ring on the toilet the first time that you did not remove the thin plastic covering on the wax prior to installation. In order or the WAX to seal to the flange it has to contact both the toilet and the toilet flange. So you need to remove the thin plastic 1/2 doughnut shaped covering that the wax seal is in when it comes out of the box. That thin plastic 1/2 doughnut shaped cover is just to protect the wax during shipment from the factory to the end user. And of course, as was mentioned by other viewers, you need to install the wax seal with the horn facing down into the waste pipe. I have been using this style of wax ring for 40 years and they work very well. They are much better then just the plain wax ring that we had to work with back in the 1960's.
Ajax, you're spot on! Excess wax has to go somewhere. Ideally it will spread evenly, but when it is too much, it will spread inside and make opening smaller.
Marty, just watched a bunch of videos by professional plumbers attempting to resolve this same issue, which I also have (hence my entire morning watching the stuff). I'm an electronics design engineer and usually very handy at many other things, including most plumbing projects. My conclusion after watching all of the videos so far? You are NOT a hack! But many of the "professionals" seem to be. Sloppy work and all in a big rush. I wonder if they do a better job at their own homes. I'm a bit cursed with OCD, so I would very likely do the same "overkill" things you have done here. Since I've spent an entire career designing products that are critical for function and reliability (usually running 24/7 for at least 25 years before repair), I see where you're coming from. I HATE doing plumbing work, so why wouldn't I put a little extra into the repair job while everything is apart? "I would challenge the "Pro's" repair longevity to yours here. I would bet that yours will still be working, and theirs may require extra "visits". Hats off to you! And THANKS! And BTW - great sense of humor...
Thanks for the compliment, but there have been a few plumber's comments that have led me to believe that I may have some problems under the fixture. I'm going to take it off (I'll record it and post it) and see what's been going on for the past couple of years. I always assume I'll do a better job than anyone else because most people are slobs, but maybe they're right, maybe I did make mistakes. Gonna pull it off when I can muster the energy.
@@marpo You're very welcome for the compliment. It is well deserved. Yeah, I do plumbing only when it's necessary, and I tend to stick with "Input" (hot / cold water in copper pipes) vs "Output" (bad stuff in PVC). I've seen professional plumbers do things that totally contradict each other. Scary. Will be watching for your next video(s) - any subject. I'm sure it will be well done and entertaining!
Great video. A good M-Hack tip is using straws on the toilet bolts as guides for positioning the bowel. Another good tip is using DAP Quick-Seal (around the base of the bowel) to prevent subtle toilet movement. - - - Un-level floors cause un-level toilet bowels. Maybe you can use a level, and a slow-setting floor tile mortar to build a level base upon which to set the bowel; but that's a big project. - - - Wax seals with the plastic horn are a problem, especially with cast iron flanges.
LMAO your funny dude great info btw I have that huge gap under the flange issue as well thanx... also straws great tip .....and Wax Rings do SUCK big time ...I use the rubber wax free rings they work way better.... and yes the should totally make the spout under the toilet longer it would solve it all and have a rubber gasket attached
Don't forget that the spout, IF narrower than the plumbing outlet, CAN be gradually moved off center, which can allow backup to seep through under the toilet bowl to the bathroom floor. AND IF the bowl is sealed with putty or whatever, THERE IS NO WAY OUT, and the leak may spread to your ceiling underneath.So much to worry about!
This guy has created a plumbing nightmare. Do not do this. Spray foam... Caulk... Filler.. Buddy just replace the flange. Stabilize. You have locked everything in with repair gunk.
Great job Marty! Especially making sure all the bases are covered. It was educational in the way you related different plumbing forums and UA-cam videos to gain insight concerning the issues that can occur while installing a new toilet. Great delivery and final product. You kept it interesting and fun to watch. I'm somewhat of a perfectionist also, I used to write music but wanted to change things so much I had to give it a rest. Some home improvement videos would be great! You're an artist at delivering information that leaves no one bored or uninterested. Keep up the great work.
WOW!! Where have you been all my remodeling years. Plumber installed my toilets and no sooner you sit down they wobble. So, after this video I'm redoing it myself. What we run out of corn cobs?...🤣😂🤣❤❤
Liked the video. Over the top but covers all problems. You also have a depressed Larry David presentation that fits fixing toilets! No need to "Curb Your Enthusiasm" with this job...
Marty.....you get more than 418 thousand views on a single video and then don't make any more? My newer videos have only gotten 300 or so views. You could have thousands of subscribers.
I saw a video where the person doubled up on the wax ring instead of buying a jumbo ring sold at the big box stores. Other plumbers commented to never double up because it causes some of the wax to enter the drain pipe and narrows the opening. Check out homerenovision videos done by a pro.
Where you initially went wrong was listening to the home Depot guy. He's not making 10 dollars an hr there because he is a master of all trades. and made all the money he needed for retirement by the age of 30 and now he's in it just for the fun.
As an actual plumber this video is so cringe worthy because you have a lead bend flange your should’ve gotten rid of that because now when it corrodes your gonna have to break the tile that you just converted around the pipe honestly you should’ve called another plumber instead of being a “fix-it-man”
Holy crap! Haaaah ! Marty you crack me up! I just found your channel- ...yup! I get it- I'm a total hack, what can I say? But my friends and family say I'm a bit OCD... Eh, what you gonna do? So looks like I'm not alone
Leaving a hole for water ok. Looks like flange is cast iron leaded in good and secure. Flange out of level not a problem need the tile floor flat and level that's what the WC sets on 😊
Good insights. Marty wonders about the same stuff I do. I wonder if he hears the same voices in his head that I do too? I'm going to subscribe just based on his sense of humor alone.
Kohler makes a shitter that this guy would love. There is a separate tube that gets bolted to the toilet flange first, before the toilet even goes on. Then once you bolt the tube to the flange, (using a wax ring) you install the toilet. This gives the installer perfect vision of the seal of the wax ring. It’s an expensive shitter tho. I think that’s why you don’t see more of them in homes. They are over a grand. I’ve installed two of these so far.
Exactly! Someone needs to re-invent how toilets are mated to the waste pipe. This old method of corroded flanges and finicky wax seals needs to go.
Omg. I've just met my Male counterpart.....wow I just did the almost exact thing to my toilet yesterday, then i see this video. Amazing to meet another perfectionist , thanks for this video! I love your artwork. . Sculpture is beautiful.
I give this guy lots of credit for taking on his own home improvement projects with limited experience.
OCD meets Comedy Central meets professional handyman,... this guy is good. I love it.
instead of OCD's it should be called CDO'S.,...at least that way it would be in alphabetical order.....
@@shiner4mIDAHO 😂🤣
Right? This dude is my new favorite UA-camr!
You are the most miserable man in all of home repair videos and I can't get enough of it!! I'm willing to donate my full head of hair to you if you do another video!
The straw trick is a good idea.
That is a great idea
@@stephenkenney729 i have been a plumber for over 10years, i have never use a straw, dont need to.
@@dangda-ww7de Plumbers don't need straws, people who were never trained sometimes do.
You are absolutely hilarious! A lot of overkill, but you made it fun to watch!
Dude how in the F can you only have one video? Please return!
The straws over the bolts idea was actually a pretty good one 🖒
That was the best video on toilet flange repair, I've seen yet! You have that uncanny natural ability of making sarcastic criticisms towards an industry, very humorous and entertaining to watch, at the same time making your point. If this was Hollywood, you would be the James Woods of toilet repairs...lol
Weird. I've heard that about a dozen times before - that I look like James Woods. I can't see it at all.
YES! Why is nearly everything toilet related designed so shittily? From chronically leaking flapper valves to disintegrating wax rings to pvc flanges that crack to the entire flange seal system.....it's all so terrible. Clearly the toilet itself should have a spout that goes down into the pipe instead of a separate seal that, you know, you hope holds but is obvious the source of constant replacement.
No pun intended!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 why why why 😫😫😫so true I have a 50 year old toilet that someone just sank flange bolts into the concrete without using a flange 😳 Happy Sunday, Cheers!
Completely agree. Plumbing tech has advanced so much except the toilet to flange connection.
Something tells me you wrap your garbage up nice and neat. Banana peels are probably wrapped/secured in some fashion.
This guy is hilarious. Prop 69 warning! “Maybe it will only kill people in California”🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Mike Powell that was my favorite part!!!
"...Dow, ...who brought us agent orange" Priceless!
Just googled him up, this hilarious dude is a professional stand up comedian and performer!
Look him up, Marty Pollio 👌
"maybe it'll just kill people in california..." lolz
Instead of that foam, try mortar repair next time - it comes in a caulk tube.
John Keith would Mortar help level the flange?
Really smart guy. Greatest, non cheesy, most real, well edited video I’ve ever seen on DIY home improvement.
Regarding the wax rings with plastic funnel flanges:
Apparently a lot of people are installing them UPSIDE DOWN!
The plastic funnel flange goes DOWN inside the standpipe, NOT UP into the toilet itself!
The flange directs the flow of water DOWN (and more importantly) INSIDE the standpipe, not out into or onto your subfloor or floor.
Absolutely true!! The wax is the seal for liquids AND gas. The plastic piece is a FUNNEL and must be pointed down into the standpipe. It shows pointing UP on the box as most folks install it to the bottom of the toilet which is usually upside down at that point.
I install the wax funnel to the floor flange with the plastic inserted into the pipe. THEN place the toilet over the wax ring and secure it with the bolts.
The toilet flange is short to prevent damage when the toilet is placed on any hard surface. You break the flange - you buy a new toilet.
Thus the brilliant idea of a plastic FUNNEL mounted with the wax ring to extend the flange DOWNWARD into the sewer pipe.
Also you must be sure the floor flange is mounted firmly to the subfloor. And near level side to side. The wax ring can compensate for a LOT of misalignment of the flange.
Final key detail: The bottom of the toilet housing must be flush with the floor all around the outside edge. This helps the weight of the tank and bowl to stabilize the toilet. Also a bead of adhesive caulk will help keep the toilet secure.
But it is the CLOSET BOLTS thru the flange AND the SCREWS holding the flange to the floor that prevent the toilet from rocking. The key is to snug the two bolts enough to hold the bowl firmly to the floor.....without cracking the porcelain!!
The DJ, I appreciate your informative comment. My tenant said that her toilet is loose. She tried to tighten one of the two screws on the bottom of the toilet and that screw came out. I was hoping to go buy a flange if that one was damaged, but according to you if the flange is broke I will have to get a new toilet. I will have my son remove the toilet and take a look. Or maybe I can get a new screw hopefully for the flange if it's damaged. Hopefully won't have to get a new toilet.
@@karenkramer3760 he isn't saying the toilet is broken, he is saying IF the toilet had a larger/longer opening like the video said, if the flange broke the toilet would break.
likely the person broke the bolt going through the flange, or the flange is not secured to the floor allowing for the toilet to move back and forth
Kerchew, that's exactly what we found out after removing the toilet. The flange was loose. Thank you for responding
kerchew if the floor around the flange is damage can I build it up with mortar?
I could watch you discussing breakfast cereal. Had to bring my wife into the room to watch this.
I needed this great laugh before I started my project!!! Bwhaaaaaaaaaa!!!
You are a cool dude...love to go fishing with you...but...Everything you did and said is wrong...sorry. (master plumber here 37 yrs experience)
1. A wax ring with a funnel built-in is for non-plumbers doing what a real plumber should do. They're ok...but the problem is, sometimes the funnel doesn't fit inside the pipe and the black plastic gets crumpled and ruins the wax seal.
2. No need to fill in around the "closet ring"....waste of time and energy...unless the ring is loose and lifts up.
3. No need to put that stuff on the bottom of the bowl.
4. No need to stack wax rings any higher than an 1-1/2" above the floor.
5. If the ring seem too high, set the bowl on top of it WITHOUT any wax yet.... and see if it teeters on it....if so....you'll FOR SURE need to shim the toilet up.
6. If the ring is a little crooked...it's ok as long as it's not too high anywhere and teeters. (build up the wax a little on the low side to compensate).
7. You put the plastic "China Cap" holders (washers) on upside down on the closet bolts. Now the china caps won't snap on.
8. You didn't check to see if the toilet bowl needs to be shimmed (most important step of all).
9. When caulking around the base of the bowl, just leave out a little in the back and that will be the "leak indicator" you wanted.
10. Let me know if you have any questions.
You had to go ruin it.
@@againstallodds404 I did?...Sorry...I'll shut up now.
@@mplum590 You don't need to fill in around the outside of ring. The seal is made on top of the ring with wax. Make sure the ring is fastened down pretty well and doesn't lift up. Put one or 2 wax rings down so that there is ample Squish when you set the bowl down. Using water proof shims (some plumbers use coins, I use small squares of floor tile and maybe some washers) to remove ANY wobble BEFORE you tighten the bolts down (gently)....not too tight! The bowl should feel pretty solid.
Wax first goes on the toilet not the flange
@@devilshaircut9 risky....sometimes the ring falls off just before you set the bowl down and now it's way off center....and now you just bought a ceiling repair.
Great Video thanks for sharing Love the Agent Orange Comment, Thank God for Us that made it Home Safe from 50 + Yrs ago also
I would have taken out that flange reset a new one with the bottom of the flange being the same elevation as to finish tile, I would have filled in that Gap with hydraulic cement to keep it sturdy when you reset the new one . After 28 years of being a plumber most of the time commodes leak because flanges are not set the proper elevation therefore your wax ring does not smash all the way as recommended . I use plaster of Paris to seal around the base of the commode so that it will fill the gaps due to finish floor not level, I've done this many many times for apartment complex clinics hospitals and so on .
I was taught by an old plumber and if I had to walk to the truck 20 times to get it right he would make me do that . The chances of my commode leaking after I was done we're very slim because I knew that that flange was set property . Never used two wax rings because it will smash inward and cause you problems later . I'm too old now and too tired to do things twice . Best of luck
Thanks for the tips. Cutting out that cast iron pipe to set a new one is beyond my skill set. I'think I'm going to pop off the toilet and take a look at it now that a couple of years have passed. My leak detector (the tunnel in the grout) has not shown any leaks, but I've gotten several comments on here telling me I did things wrong. I didn't invent most of this stuff, I just took advice from plumbers.
I agree, seems to me that if one wax ring isn't sufficient, the floor flange isn't set correctly, or the floor needs some attention.
@@MartyPollio I would be uneasy using two wax rings, especially without the attached horn. You might get a lot of excess wax in the pipe when you push the toilet down to seat it.
Cheyenne - Well there's the key - "I was taught by an old plumber and if I had to walk to the truck 20 times to get it right he would make me do that." Great lessons. I'm not a plumber myself, but my grandfather taught me how to properly prepare and solder copper pipes when I was 10 years old. I haven't done thousands, but probably a few hundred and NEVER had a leak. It's good to see that there is still talent around!
Why would you use plaster of Paris since it's not water proof at all!
I swear I said those exact words to a friend today when I mentioned my frustrations with plumbing parts both old (galvanized) and new (the new plastic stuff) and of course the bloody wax ring. There should me no reason all of this stuff is still so primitive. Looks like I have some things to patent. Thanks for your video.
Your opening sounds all to familiar :-)......I found your video entertaining, educational, a little sarcastic humor along with a few hacks thrown in..wow, great job ...got a few laughs from it too..oh, and I learned a thing or 2 .. Thanks.. :-)...
Dow Chemical... "I'm sure there's nothing they make that won't kill you" 😂
You’re entertaining, authentic, as well as very helpful. Thank you so much!
"Chances are, if you've come knocking, your toilets rocking" - Well shot video and good production. Assuming you started this project because your toilet was rocking, I'm not sure you addressed the root cause. My comments may be useful for another viewer who has a toilet that is rocking. An old flattened out wax ring that is letting fumes or water out is never the cause of the rocking, it's the result of the rocking. The toilet rocks because the individual floor tiles under the toilet are not level, flat or on the same plane and/or the bottom perimeter of the toilet itself is not flat or on the same plane **. Other than buying a new toilet and hoping it is more "flat" or pulling up all the tile around the toilet and reinstalling it taking extra care to make it flat; there is a very cheap and simple fix...buy some toilet shims. The big box stores have them as does amazon. Some are made of a very hard plastic that are very difficult to cut once in place but they will never compress, others are a softer rubberized material that you can cut in place with a utility knife / razor blade (I don't know if they compress over time). If the toilet is rocking front to back, slid a shim under the toilet at the front or the back, where there is a gap between the bottom of the toilet and the floor. Then trim the shim so it's not sticking out. If the toilet is rocking side to side, then find the gap on the right side or left side and slide in a shim. The shim is not supposed to lift the toilet, just to stop it from moving down. Don't hammer the shim in or force it in. When sliding it in by hand, when you meet firm resistance your are finished, just cut off the part stick out and leave it. If you force it in, you are now starting to lift the toilet off the wax ring that has no rebound abilities and causing your problems all over again. If you don't like the look of the shim after it is trimmed off, you can run some caulking around the toilet but don't put any on the back so if a leak occurs, it has a place to exit where you can eventually see it. If you seal it up all the way around it could become a petri dish to grow all sorts of interesting things if a leak ever happens. Search UA-cam for Shimming a toilet to get a visual of the process. ** A 3rd and more rare possibility for a rocking toilet ( that would only follow someone who just removed and reinstalled the toilet or you just moved into a house or apartment) is the use of a product other than a conventional wax ring that is too thick for the job. There are plastic foam and rubber products that are made as substitutes for the messy wax ring. Some people love them, some hate them but they are more sensitive to the gap between the bottom of your toilet where the horn comes out and the top of your flange. Some flanges are above the floor, at the floor or below the floor level. The problem with this plastic/foam/rubber seal happens more frequently when the flange is above the floor level leaving too little space for the plastic/foam/rubber to compress. The toilet base does not get all the way down to the floor level and you have a rocking toilet that you need to shim or you then try to close that small gap between the toilet base and the floor by screwing down the nuts on the closet bolts on each side of the toilet resulting in a cracked toilet bowl or a broken flange. There is no torque specification for tightening these nuts that will protect you from breaking the flange or breaking the toilet. That's where the experience of a Pro or someone who has does these things multiple times has the feel to know when to stop tightening. If you do an excellent job fixing the the rocking with shims, there is no need to tighten the nuts much beyond hand tight. If you are heavy and older and have leg strength problems lowering yourself down to the seat without a final drop that also includes a slight backward motion Or when getting up you are inadvertently pushing off the toilet, putting backwards pressure on the toilet you can cause problems with the seal. I'd suggest cutting a short piece of 1 x 6 x ( the distance from the back of your toilet to the wall or trim board) and placing that board flat on the floor to stop any backward movement of the toilet. A PVC 1 x 6 plank would be the best as it is immune to moisture and water or make it out of wood but seal it with several coats of paint.
Keep making videos, please. You rock! I have the same problem, to a lesser degree.
You went to great lengths to install that toilet. In the year 2525 the house may be gone but the toilet may still be there. Great video.
Well yea, he said he was never going to use it. :))
i think the straw method was smart... i'll probably use that
That's a good way to line up the toilet
Great to see honest tutorial complete with the challenges involved. Love it!
No need for the grand canyon through the grout. If she leaks, you're gonna know it. Good vid.
You are quite hilarious at times and really helpful too.
Thank you. You are just the right amount of appropiately grumpy and hilarious. About to set a toilet by myself and the straw trick will probably cut down on my swearing.
They make jumbo wax rings without a horn. About the thickness of 1-1/2 regular wax rings.
Should've gone with 3 wax rings.
Your closet bolt cover cap washers(white plastic) are upside down. Probably why the covers wont stay on to well. Regardless still great video.
I may have blocked the line with putting double stacked rings. May smash down into the drain and cause problems in future also. They have thick rings to use and never use rings with the funnels
The seal is wax, to allow for difference in flange height to bowl (the flange being out of level, you can just stick a wax seal on and it will compensate). The neck on the bottom of the bowl isn't longer because sometimes you have to off set the flange or use an offset flange. However nice idea on the straws.
Marty, you gotta start doing standup comedy. You're a natural. Thanks for the vid.
That's his job
A fun video. I had a few observations:
1) Liked the straw idea. Next time make the straws different lengths that way you can engage one straw at a time as you drop the toilet down onto the flange. It is hard to see both straws at the same time while trying to look around the bowl.
2) Two wax rings is a bad idea. Next time get a toilet flange spacer kit and raise the top surface of the toilet flange to 1/4"-3/8" above the surrounding floor surface. There are lots of videos on how to install toilet spacers on UA-cam. Wax is too weak to reliably hold back the water when it gets too thick.
3) Wax rings are approximately 1" thick. Ideally they compress down to approximately 3/8"-1/2" thick during installation. If your toilet flange is only 1/8" out of level there is plenty of wax to accommodate that variance in flange height across the sealing surface.
R J Serra- You are correct about being difficult to be able to see both toilet hold down bolts when lowering the heavy toilet down. This is the reason I never attempt set a complete toilet; my back will not handle holding up heavy toilet and wax ring is subject to damage while I am fumbling with the toilet. I have to set bowl only and then replace tank components as needed.
I love your tips and design solutions too. I find most things designed horribly. I’m sick of companies like Apple that put chips in their charging cords that won’t even let you charge your phone if the chip is bad or if you get a 3rd party cable. Apple has made billions by extorting people into buying countess cords and filling up landfills around the world with defective cords. Apple has zero social consciousness. It’s ran by psychopaths. The reason why so many products are designed pathetically are for the reasons you pointed out about toilets. It’d put overpay plumbers out of business. And I bet you’re right about the reason for no redesigns on toilets is so they fit flat on a showroom floor.
Don’t get me started on the 10,000 different screws when a handful of different ones would work in 99% of cases. I’m so sick of abusive capitalism. I’m also sick of those who believe unregulated capitalism is a god. There is no freedom when corporations feed you crap and tell you that you have to like it.
Great video. I found a lot funny because what you said is true.
I feel the same way as you do about Apple. I think they make really good products, but they sabotage them so you have to keep buying new stuff. That's why I don't buy their products, but I have to admit, their M-series chips are better than Intel. Anyway, thanks for watching my video.
Half of the wax is probably blocking the drain. That was a lot. On a side note I like the video though.
LOL. When he started pushing down on the wax, I was like "OMG! Where is all that wax going?" :-D One heavy duty ring wudda been fine bro, but hey, you be you!
Joe Guetzloff
I like to install flanges to the sub floor and cut the tile right around it. Then grout right around the flange like it is part of the tile floor. I’ll throw in a jumbo wax and it works perfect. Never had an issue and because the flange is directly on the sub floor it stays tight. New subfloors and new installs though.
Joe Guetzloff
Meant to say on the backer board not subfloor.
@@shadowhunter9713 Do you screw it only to the backer board, or both it and the subfloor? What size screws?
That's not a bald spot... it's a solar panel for a sex machine.
Hack is a perfect word for you.
Lol so true!!
This was funny and informative to us hacks. Dap products are junk for sure.
How to turn a 20 minute job into a hobby.
James Crudele how is it 20 min? Give me some guidance
Marty next time get a container of plumbers putty roll it in your hand till looks like spaghetti noodle then put it around the base where toilet meets the floor. Then when you sit on it any excess will squeeze out cut it off with a razor. The let it harded your toilet will not rock anymore dont forget to level it before it hardens.
I liked the straw idea to help lining up the toilet
I love this guy - especially the monologue at the end. Like seriously, 21st century and it's still impossible for the world to come up with a better solution than wax lol
I agree! I said the same thing when I replaced a toilet for the first time. There are definitely better ways to have a good seal. Buttttt maybe you don't want a perfect seal. What if you had a clog past the toilet in the pipe, you probably want to know about it before it causes bigger problems down stream. Not having a perfect seal would be like a mechanical fuse/warning before you get totally screwed. Just a theory not a pro...
@@nicholasbucknor1894 Personally, I don't want any sewer water on or soaked into my floor to be what alerts me to a clogged pipe.
@@paulmonk7820 sure you don't but I bet you would rather have it on some tile floor before you had it on a ceiling. That is if your toilet is upstairs as mine is.
@@nicholasbucknor1894 Well, by the time it appears on the upper floor tile, it is probably doing damage also to whatever is beneath it.
I wonder if they stilll use wax rings in the space shuttle toilets, LOL !!!
I had a further observation while re-watching your video. It appeared that when you installed the reinforced was ring on the toilet the first time that you did not remove the thin plastic covering on the wax prior to installation. In order or the WAX to seal to the flange it has to contact both the toilet and the toilet flange. So you need to remove the thin plastic 1/2 doughnut shaped covering that the wax seal is in when it comes out of the box. That thin plastic 1/2 doughnut shaped cover is just to protect the wax during shipment from the factory to the end user. And of course, as was mentioned by other viewers, you need to install the wax seal with the horn facing down into the waste pipe. I have been using this style of wax ring for 40 years and they work very well. They are much better then just the plain wax ring that we had to work with back in the 1960's.
Perfect!! this will never ever leak in life anymore
yes it will
Hack is right...
nice video but i find he used too much wax could block the toilet
Ajax, you're spot on! Excess wax has to go somewhere. Ideally it will spread evenly, but when it is too much, it will spread inside and make opening smaller.
9:30 Clean floor and toilet with rubbing alcohol and let dry before you apply bath caulk, for best adhesion.
Toilet tank bumper on wall? Now THATS meticulous. Impressed.
As a plumber I call this a hack job things like this I see every day....
Perfection=hack, I don't think so.
I call it a job well done. You impress me as someone who cuts corners and is less than proud of his work.
I feel your pain.
Or just install one of them Chinese toilets that’s just a Rift in the floor
end comtary is gold
Marty, just watched a bunch of videos by professional plumbers attempting to resolve this same issue, which I also have (hence my entire morning watching the stuff). I'm an electronics design engineer and usually very handy at many other things, including most plumbing projects. My conclusion after watching all of the videos so far? You are NOT a hack! But many of the "professionals" seem to be. Sloppy work and all in a big rush. I wonder if they do a better job at their own homes. I'm a bit cursed with OCD, so I would very likely do the same "overkill" things you have done here. Since I've spent an entire career designing products that are critical for function and reliability (usually running 24/7 for at least 25 years before repair), I see where you're coming from. I HATE doing plumbing work, so why wouldn't I put a little extra into the repair job while everything is apart? "I would challenge the "Pro's" repair longevity to yours here. I would bet that yours will still be working, and theirs may require extra "visits". Hats off to you! And THANKS! And BTW - great sense of humor...
Thanks for the compliment, but there have been a few plumber's comments that have led me to believe that I may have some problems under the fixture. I'm going to take it off (I'll record it and post it) and see what's been going on for the past couple of years. I always assume I'll do a better job than anyone else because most people are slobs, but maybe they're right, maybe I did make mistakes. Gonna pull it off when I can muster the energy.
@@marpo You're very welcome for the compliment. It is well deserved. Yeah, I do plumbing only when it's necessary, and I tend to stick with "Input" (hot / cold water in copper pipes) vs "Output" (bad stuff in PVC). I've seen professional plumbers do things that totally contradict each other. Scary. Will be watching for your next video(s) - any subject. I'm sure it will be well done and entertaining!
You are a hack, and a good one! Nicely done, I learned a lot.
You are a perfectionist Marty! Save your hair....meditate! Enjoyed your perfection! lol!
I feel like I'm breathing cancer just watching that foam expand.
Great video. A good M-Hack tip is using straws on the toilet bolts as guides for positioning the bowel. Another good tip is using DAP Quick-Seal (around the base of the bowel) to prevent subtle toilet movement. - - - Un-level floors cause un-level toilet bowels. Maybe you can use a level, and a slow-setting floor tile mortar to build a level base upon which to set the bowel; but that's a big project. - - - Wax seals with the plastic horn are a problem, especially with cast iron flanges.
Hope you meant bowl, not BOWEL!
Wax seal been working fine for me 33yrs plus.
Greg M bnn
That you know of. Lol
One seal lasted 33 years, or have you used them for 33 years? Have you verified that it's still holding on after 33 years?
This is awesome. I think you should do standup comedy as well
funny stuff " what century is this ? " < point well taken
LMAO your funny dude great info btw I have that huge gap under the flange issue as well thanx... also straws great tip .....and Wax Rings do SUCK big time ...I use the rubber wax free rings they work way better.... and yes the should totally make the spout under the toilet longer it would solve it all and have a rubber gasket attached
What brand of wax-free rings do you use?
Fluidmaster Better than Wax Universal Toilet Seal at Home Depot $7bucks
Don't forget that the spout, IF narrower than the plumbing outlet, CAN be gradually moved off center, which can allow backup to seep through under the toilet bowl to the bathroom floor. AND IF the bowl is sealed with putty or whatever, THERE IS NO WAY OUT, and the leak may spread to your ceiling underneath.So much to worry about!
The silicon on the bottom was enough, the dap was unnecessary
Danco (perfect seal) developed a product that makes this so much easier.
I agree Wax rings in 2018 , ridiculous
I should have given my ex a wax ring.
I just found this guy. Im dying laughing! And I’m learning some good tips.
you never ever caulk a toilet to floor will pull tiles up if you have to remove
Toilet leaks are the stuff of nightmares. It makes me never want to go to the bathroom indoors again.
This guy has created a plumbing nightmare. Do not do this. Spray foam... Caulk... Filler.. Buddy just replace the flange. Stabilize. You have locked everything in with repair gunk.
I think Marty Pollio should be on "Ask This Old House", U R the Man - Marty!
How to Install Fluidmaster's 7530 Better Than Wax Toilet Seal ua-cam.com/video/TAEwudpeQFo/v-deo.html
Great job Marty! Especially making sure all the bases are covered. It was educational in the way you related different plumbing forums and UA-cam videos to gain insight concerning the issues that can occur while installing a new toilet. Great delivery and final product. You kept it interesting and fun to watch. I'm somewhat of a perfectionist also, I used to write music but wanted to change things so much I had to give it a rest. Some home improvement videos would be great! You're an artist at delivering information that leaves no one bored or uninterested. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Johnny, glad you liked it. I've made a few more, but haven't posted them. This one seems more neurotic than the others.
WOW!! Where have you been all my remodeling years. Plumber installed my toilets and no sooner you sit down they wobble. So, after this video I'm redoing it myself.
What we run out of corn cobs?...🤣😂🤣❤❤
Wow this foo is so petty hahaha..
This guy seems like a real handyman to say the least.He is operating on this toilet.😂😂😂😂😂
Liked the video. Over the top but covers all problems. You also have a depressed Larry David presentation that fits fixing toilets! No need to "Curb Your Enthusiasm" with this job...
The first 45 seconds of this video is super relatable man
Marty.....you get more than 418 thousand views on a single video and then don't make any more? My newer videos have only gotten 300 or so views. You could have thousands of subscribers.
Theres a Perfect Seal thats better than regular wax rings sold at HD or at Lowes apx $ 9.00 But worth the price etc.
I saw a video where the person doubled up on the wax ring instead of buying a jumbo ring sold at the big box stores. Other plumbers commented to never double up because it causes some of the wax to enter the drain pipe and narrows the opening. Check out homerenovision videos done by a pro.
Never stack wax rings. Raise your flange.Lots of products to do so available.
like the brace idea , except gluing the part to toilet, maybe install soft bumper to the wall bracket you made
This is probably the best video I've seen regarding toilet repair. You do a great job. I like your presentation and delivery. Excellent.
I agree 100%. Thanks for posting, sir.
Dennis Swenson this old house replace flange
Where you initially went wrong was listening to the home Depot guy. He's not making 10 dollars an hr there because he is a master of all trades. and made all the money he needed for retirement by the age of 30 and now he's in it just for the fun.
As an actual plumber this video is so cringe worthy because you have a lead bend flange your should’ve gotten rid of that because now when it corrodes your gonna have to break the tile that you just converted around the pipe honestly you should’ve called another plumber instead of being a “fix-it-man”
Holy crap!
Haaaah ! Marty you crack me up!
I just found your channel-
...yup! I get it- I'm a total hack, what can I say? But my friends and family say I'm a bit OCD...
Eh, what you gonna do?
So looks like I'm not alone
Leaving a hole for water ok. Looks like flange is cast iron leaded in good and secure. Flange out of level not a problem need the tile floor flat and level that's what the WC sets on 😊
Please do another video even if it isn't about home repair. Do something, anything. Your hilarious!
Love your humor. I think it's humor. Anyway, enjoyed the video.
Good insights. Marty wonders about the same stuff I do. I wonder if he hears the same voices in his head that I do too? I'm going to subscribe just based on his sense of humor alone.
Kohler makes a shitter that this guy would love. There is a separate tube that gets bolted to the toilet flange first, before the toilet even goes on. Then once you bolt the tube to the flange, (using a wax ring) you install the toilet. This gives the installer perfect vision of the seal of the wax ring. It’s an expensive shitter tho. I think that’s why you don’t see more of them in homes. They are over a grand. I’ve installed two of these so far.