Zinc anti rust paint for car chassis and body filler rust repair videos | car bodywork preparation
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Zinc anti rust paint for car chassis and body filler rust repair procedure that is recorded in process of complete colour change of my working van.
This is a third video in the series of rust repair videos and in it, you can learn how to apply cold galvanizing complex named Zinga and see all steps I took in car bodywork preparation. The video is about work on the van, but all processes and procedures will be applicable to the car.
Zinc considered to be one of the best anti rust solutions as it provides galvanic protection and through correct procedure can offer protection of the metal for up to 60 years according to the manufacturer of the product.
Car bodywork preparation that is shown in this video display priming zinc layer, application of body filler, sanding and final coating with primer to achieve solid colour prior to painting base colour.
This has to be one of the most therapeutic films I have watched. Brings back a lot of memories, from when I used to restore cars. I loved working on rusty motors! Great series of films!
Thank you Fraser, glad you enjoyed it. There is an engine rebuild videos for the same van published. I think you will enjoy them
Therapy, take it easy
Wow, That dries fast!
Yes, the manufacturer specifies drying time 4 hours but it is dry to touch within minutes.
I repair these (work) - biggest issue is the sills rusting from the insides out. The sills are a water-trap. Very important to coat the inside of the sills thoroughly with a good anti-corrosive or all your hard graft will go to waste as it continues to rust. It's also a good idea to add extra drain-points to the lowest parts of the sills. We get these in and the sills are fishponds - full of liters of water just sitting there.
Other big issue on all these are the vertical body-seams where the panels are joined. If/when the sealant cracks & allows moisture in, behind the seams theres foam. That foam will soak up water like a sponge (because it is a sponge) & rust will start eating away inside the seams (which are surprisingly large behind what's visible. Only "solution" is to remove the seam sealer & fish out the foam strips, then spray the insides with anti-corrosives, carefully re-apply seam sealer.
Next issue is the wings & inner arches - both like to rot, so both need cleaning up well & rust-treatment. In the case of the wings, they have to come off to do it.
Just my 2c.
Thanks a lot for a good input! Much appreciated. I have done most of those on the list but my roof has let me down. So much that I am looking for replacement now
@@weld-deluxltd7635 roofs/around the screens are always issues. Screen has to come out to do even a half-azz job of repairing there & the sheer volume of spot-welds holding the entire roof on make replacement a marathon/only for the brave. Plus when you plug weld the roof..which you have to as no spot welder will do it, the backs of the plug welds will start to rust, lol. The battle never ends. :-)
I use Fosroc Galvafroid, it is also very good stuff indeed. I may try Zinga one day.
It is proven to be a good product.
@@weld-deluxltd7635 I will give some a try one day. On my next video, I will put a card up and add one of your videos to my end screen. This way you might get more views and a subscriber or two?
@@JonDingle thank you kindly!
Great job. You have a great knowledge for your first time. How long did the whole process take to complete ?
several weeks, it takes sooooo loooong to dry when outside temperature under 20C
Why didn't you use just epoxy 2k primer
Zink known by that nothing sticks to it?
Correct me if I'm wrong.?
Zink offers additional galvanic protection and manufacturer stipulated that it should be used on shot-blasted, rough surface. 2K primer was used to seal the zink. Beare in mind that zink particles are in the binder and when it dries it is a good surface to paint over.
Thank you for making the video. Very informative. Appreciate the attention to details and the information you provide. Do you happen to know if zinc primer completely hardens? I can remove mine fairly easily with a degreaser. Is that normal?
Yes, it is drying out relatively fast. I am not sure if degreeser would affect it. (I can not remember, but I never had any issue) Paint job is almost a year now and there is no defects. Thank you for your comment! It helps to know that some one finds it helpful!
These vans need this sort of treatment as they rust overnight!
shame it was not done from the factory. T make matters even worst, they put 2l engine into those vans
i’ve been thinking about acid etch, then galv primer coat. Great restoration! salt on the roads there? or near the ocean?
Combination of several factors, really bad factory paint job, salt on the roads in winter and North Sea 200m near by
Thank you for making the video. My only concern is that you are applying layers of material but has only sanded the surface once when you applied the body filler. Are you editing out the sanding to cut the video short after every application of applying zinga, epoxy, eurathane, body filler, eurathane, and finally paint steps? Or did you not feel the need to sand in between. In other words are you relying on chemical bonding of the different products only and not on the mechanicals bonding ?
Some things have being omitted, I can not remember what. It has been a while
Great video - How much zinga did you use for your whole project?
Originally I purchased 5kg but it wasn't enough, so later I purchased 5 again and still have about 3 let
@@weld-deluxltd7635 Thank You!
Dries fast is good zinc is ingredient for rust inhibiting primer
Yes you are correct, 96% of all solids in it is zinc
Also read lead is ingredient for marine metal anti rust
@@nestormejia2692 I am not aware of that, but will be interesting to know.
Thank you so much for this video, I took many notes!
May I please ask:
Did you spray underside with Zinga and then Gravitex Chip Paint as well?
Can you spray EVEYRHING everything on the underside? Must you avoid moving parts?Did you spray the walls of the motor bay? (not the motor itself)
So for top part you used: Zinga, Epoxy, Primer, Paint
For bottom part you used: Zinga, Primer, Gravitex. Is that correct?
Do you call Epoxy "primer" or are these separate things? How come you didn't paint Gravitex over a Epoxy?
I would LOVE if you could answer these. It's literary the last bits I need to know, to make my future van completely "bullet proof"! :)
Thank you so much. 🙏🏻
You have asked to write down what kind of projects I am interested in doing. I want to convert a ProMaster van, into a full-time living space. So 60 years guarantee is a big plus for me!
Hello Millan, here is some answers for you.
I did not sprayed underside as it was in surprisingly good condition so i only did wheel arches you can see it here ua-cam.com/video/4fphaU3cdVo/v-deo.html. You could spray any part in the same manner just remember that Zinga works the best if you sand blast metal surface before application. I did not paint inside of engine bay as i did not need that. However i did painted the engine with zinga but it is totally different story and if you interested watch this ua-cam.com/video/sBrDyjeK4Dg/v-deo.html
Little bit of info about materials:
Zing - is a Galvanising complex
Epoxy Primer - is a sealing primer that is used to seal bear metal or as in my case metal coated with Zinga.
High build primer - Primer that used to fill small pores and cracks that can be sanded down to perfectly smooth surface prior to colour ua-cam.com/video/Ub8eRdk1HGg/v-deo.html
I have always painted Gravitex over Epoxy as i needed to seal the metal before i applied Gravitex. once Gravitex was dry i did paint high build primer on top to have same material and same colour prior of application of colour.
As update there is not a spot of the rust on any surface that i repainted up to date.
Sounds cool, i wish you best of luck with your project!
@@weld-deluxltd7635 Thank you so much! That clears up a lot. So after the sealing primer, you still need to spray paint primer, before you paint?
And fot underside, if you were to do it, I'm guessing it would be Zinga, then 2xSealing Primer, then 3xGravitex, am I right? I will definitely look for some more videos on this. But I haven't seen anyone do it as thorough as you. And your neighbor seems like he knows a lot. :)
@@millanferende6723 It is not necessary to spray high build primer over Gravitex as it is a paintable surface, however, everything drying very slow as i do not have a heated paint room and outside temperature 18C. Gravitex is heavy and there is a lot of solvent in it. If it is not 100% Dry it may cause your colour coat to be wrinkled and damaged as those solvents affect the colour coat. I applied high build primer only to have enough material for sanding it down and make a smooth surface, i could of painted right over the top of the gravitex. I do belive that if you do not need a smooth surface, it is still good to aply some sort of primer before you paint colour as it gives you a uniform base to work with.
Does it still good after 4 years? can you do video how it looks now?
It is still good, it has some issues but mainly due to me being crap driver and scraping side on the gate
@@weld-deluxltd7635 It would be very interesting to see short video about it.
@@weld-deluxltd7635YES! Would love to see a short follow up video to show how it's holding up, with commentary on how you might have done things differently based on both observations on current state, but also your knowledge given all the constructive comments and other experience shared w/you over the years. ?
Wow what a difference, once it*s painted it will look awesome, how about painting the rims,, where the calipers /drum brakes, that had some rust at least maybe give it some black paint or some rust preventive, to protect it.
If you interested to see this van in colour here is a link to that video ua-cam.com/video/Ub8eRdk1HGg/v-deo.html Yes, the rims where shot blasted and then powder coated in silver. I did not bother with painting brake calipers as it is working van and the whole point was to make sure it preserved properly concentrating more on practicality.
How about the seams inside, to protect them since there was rust outside, the seams, could benefit from some paint /rust treatment just in case the rust went through, 👍👍👍👍👍👍👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
Yes, i have used staff for the protection of everything from inside where i could not get in with the paint. I will find out the name of it later on and will make a comment. This solution is used to prevent corrosion on aircraft and manufacturer specify that it is suitable for automotive too
Thank you for uploading video like this. Im from philippines. I wan to learn how to remove paint, i want to learn how to paint. Can you help me?
I can only try, what questions do you have?
Hi..
Greeting from indonesia..
Now i try implemented zinc cold galvanish as base coat on bare steel to recovery of factory base galvanish and double protection from rust for my car restoration project.. i don't know if it will effective or not, but i believe only this instant&quick way to protect againts rust for bare steel and welding work..so far it stick with epoxy and can over paint..kindly need your advise base on your experience it will long last or not? Many thanks
I presume that different zink coatings have different properties and levels of effectiveness. In my experience, the paint job is over a year old now and there is no sign of any issues. Manufacturer of "Zinga" talking about 60 years of protection if applied correctly. If i can get 1/4 of that i will be delighted.
@@weld-deluxltd7635 noted..many thanks for discuss..now i use dinitrol zinc and 3M since zinga not available at my country..after zinc spray i overpaint epoxy 1:2 but i wonder to use it for outside panel so i just use it for inside, engine, trunk and undershield..
@@bennyronald6908 Unfortunately I can not give any advice on that as my experience in painting limited to the materials I used
How much paint and filler did you use. How long did it take to do the whole van?
Long time, several weeks.had to wait for the paint to dry. I can not remember quintiles any more as it was a while. I however answered this question before, so look in the comments under one of the videos
Since it's been like 2 years already, can you tell us if the rust issue was fixed? Thank you!
Yes, it is fixed. There is no rust on any painted surfaces
Did you sand zinga before app-lying epoxy primer ?
No
Is the van still rust free? Nice job :)
all good
Didn't know about that Zinga stuff. Do you really think it has NO shelf life and can last 20 years on a shelf? I'm just a DIY kind of guy but I don't like buying things over and over when they go bad so that is very interesting if it never goes bad.
£100 per 5kg is the cost that will make it unlikely purchase for diy purpose
Can I use upol raptor bed liner over zinc galvanised or will I need an epoxy primer?
I do not know 100%, but at the moment I am doing a project with Raptor and I do apply primer after zink coating before I put on the Raptor
@@weld-deluxltd7635 what primer are you using for the raptor project? I'm going to copy your method thanks 😁
@@Riksturr7 same primer as you see me using in this video's. It is made by Body, I will check tomorrow
@@weld-deluxltd7635 thanks again for your advice and video. I will search online for that primer.
Im Germany are you
Near by, we all near by to each other. Technology made earth such small place
I am thinking of this zinc as finish for rock armor on off road vehicle. Is this finish hard? Powdery?
Unfortunately it is not hard and you will need to have some sort of protective coating or you will have repaint any scratches all the time. If you are building serious off road machine, consider using polyuria coatings over your zink. Just research linex coating.
For spraying how did you thin the paint?
With a suitable thinner, ask your supplier.
I used Zinga, and I can state that van will NEVER rust now.
Thanks for the comment
Sprinters rust from inside out
That is also true. It looks like some age group where more affected the the other
Corroded Mercedes, can't be right.... they 'never' corrode 🤣
😄
dreadfull van for rust
They certainly cut a lot of corners on factory paint work
the final result is shit. its got to many ripples
Yes there are many ripples and you are absolutely entitled to call it shit. I would say the same thing if it was the finish on a car. This is working van and on it, I wilI take ripples over rusted holes any day of the week.
So far not a spot of rust came back, so I consider the paint job to be great success.
Additionally, I have large silver shiny stickers that take the eye away and you do not notice the ripples unless you are searching for defects.
I am grateful for your constructive comment, all of us learned so much from it. You really done a great favour to humanity, you can be proud of yourself!