The first and most important process is the removal of the rust. Sanding away as much rust as possible with abrasive papers, both outside and inside the panel won't be enough for a lasting repair. Rust on cars, or as I like to refer to it, "Auto Cancer" has to be treated like cancer. When the "cancer" is cut out, you must get every cell removed, otherwise one remaining cell will propagate and grow. It's the difference between remission and cure. After reaching the sanding level shown in your video, continue to remove the smallest traces of rust with a rotary wire brush wheel, followed by small grinding stones on a Dremel tool. The extra time here will provide large dividends. Finally, coat the previously rusted area with an oxidizing rust inhibitor / converter and allow it to soak into the tiniest cavities that may contain rust particles and allow the converter to fully dry. When fully dry, re-sand the top surface of clean metal before application of body filler and primer. I have a 21 year old van that was developing extensive areas of rust 15 years ago. After repairs, only 2 areas have required further attention and about 8 other areas have remained "rust cancer" free.
Also, if you do NOT Get the rust from UNDER that panel, it will come RIGHT back, and mostly in just a couple of months! It just does not work. Done this well for years, and I can tell you, putting on fresh metal is the ONLY fix for a good car. Unless it is a car you really don't care how long it lasts. It is just a temp fix at best. NEVER prime without doing a paint coat over it same day. Primer is pourus, designed to have tooth for the paint going on top of it.
Total a gree this repair will not last... the best way to get rid of rust is to sandblast then use muriatic acid to kill the cancer in the microscopic pores. Then neutralize the acid with baking soda or vinegar. I would then use phosphoric acid to create a phosphoric coating to prevent flash rusting does not occur. I would then proceed with welding or your repair. I would only use 2K epoxy primer to seal the bare metal.the proceed with body work.
@@772777777777777 Excellent steps! Especially if it is for your car/truck project! It takes huge amounts of time just to prep for paint, no matter what process, so why not do it right. However, some have a cheap car and are either flipping it and getting it to look nice, or just want a quick fix, which does not last very long. Having spent the money for supplies, and already strip an area, may as well do it proper...but hey, just my 2 cents. Tried it when I was younger on my daily driver, and soon was wishing I had just gone in and done it much better than I had done. Live and learn!:) LOL Cheers mate!
I've been doing minor paint and touch up body work for 20-years for my little car dealership this is one of the best videos I've ever seen thank you for making it simple
HE DID A GREAT JOB 👍THE ONLY THING THAT I CAN'T USE THAT MATERIAL, I LIKE TO USE BONDO GLASS /I KNOW HIS MATERIAL IS BETTER, FOR THIS JOB U HAVE TO COVER YOUR FACE AN ARM , ANOTHER MATERIAL THAT IS REALLY GOOD BUT MORE MONEY IS "MONKEY HAIR, GREAT VIDEO
Hi, as someone who works with lead as a filler, I would like to tell you how much I enjoyed this video, so practical and the Tech behind it is spot on. Your use of off the shelf products will be a boon to DIY'ers, well done. Just as a side note, Steel Naval Jelly is another off the shelf product that can help to 100% avoid the return of rust, a couple of coats, wash off, then the self etch. Anyway, great video as is, again well done. Blue Mule NC USA
Nice job 👍, just remember anyone watching don't use body filler to fill the rust hole as it attracts moisture, whereas fibre glass filler does not and your repair lasts a whole lot longer Thanks for posting.
i use filler all the time ,,newtech carbon fibre reinforced filler ,it sticks to rust like poo to a blanket , its made for those jobs repels moisture ,it's amazing & lasts way faster cheaper less hassle ,have you not tried it ?
I was a time served spray painter who of course never worked with cans. The one thing that made the job easier was when you had sprayed your final coats much like the video, was you then sprayed a 'fine thinner' between the fresh paint and the rest of the panel. The fine thinner would evaporate/blend the edge of the new paint onto the existing paint. Meaning as long as your prep work was good then you only had to polish where you had de-nibbed rather than sanding the whole area and polishing. It would be interesting to know whether such a thinner was available in a can as it would give a far more desirable finish.
Just to be 200% safe I always put a rust preventer on the bare metal to kill any remaining tiny bits of rust that might still be there before the primer. Belt and braces. Good video 👍🏼
@@zenkikijp9667 hi, when you have sanded back to bare metal you put it on then because no matter how clean and sanded the metal looks there will always be tiny bits of rust in it. Put a coating on and let dry for 15 mins then repeat. It turns from a grey colour to black, that's when it's cured. Then just carry on with the repair, filler and flatting then primer. I used to use a product called Ku-rust, I think it's still available.. Basically it neutralises rust and kills it. If you don't use anything like it the WILL come back.
I have been detailing for the last 5 yrs and never had the guts to get into body repair. This month I started learning masking and sanding. With these videos I believe I'll have the confidence to do some body work. Thank you sir!
Sometimes your can find somewhat damaged parts at junkyards or online for cheap for free that you can practice on. Read a lot and watch a lot to get better approaches/standards as many people tell you to do different things but often there are more professional and long-lasting techniques you need to make good repairs. Most people will not pay you serious money to spray paint their cars but some will ask if their car is cheaper and they don't expect it to be in showroom condition. Practice a bit before you start fixing other people's cars because that's a way to avoid a bad reputation and having to deal with angry people and possibly even court.
Honestly, probably never going to trust myself to do this to my PRIUS, but absolutely fascinating to see you work. Shows what can be done at home with basic equipment and know-how
Very well described and explained. It's amazing how well you can achieve a very satisfactory finish using basic equipment and shaker cans. It's all about the preparation and being patient. You rightly stress this several times. Enjoyed every second of your video. Several decades ago when i first tackled a similar wheel arch job, I surprised myself at the very satisfactory result. Amateur me improves with each subsequent job I tackle.
To buy more time before the rust comes back ( it will) tap down all rusted areas before spreading filler or glass. Only way to repair rust for good is to cut out rot and remetal or repanel.
@@danbrown4850 yeah the only way to fix rust is to cut the metal out completely and use fibre glass or get new panels. I managed to fix mine and has still held up 6 months later. Once sanded down I just loaded any rust areas up with hammerite rust converter as it seals it in from oxygen
If it comes back it's only because of a moisture issue in that spot. You could sand it and paint it only and it would hold up from then on unless moisture somehow gets to the raw metal underneath again. Rust isn't a lifelong illness. Kinda like in this video the rubber piece behind it was allowing moisture to constantly be in that spot.
One piece of advice that I got from a 45-year body man: With primer, _NEVER_ just put primer on the car, without finishing the work. The reason is this: Primer, when exposed to rain, will soak it up, like a sponge -- and in all probability, make things much worse for the metal underneath.
You often see someone driving around who has done a very nice job of rust repair, smoothing the panels and recreating the body lines. Then they have primed the repaired area and sanded to achieve a beautiful transition between the primer and paint, but they haven't had time yet to apply a colour coat or clear coat. Unfortunately, they have greatly compromised their effort by allowing the primer coat to be exposed to the atmosphere for more than even a couple of hours. The primer coat has already absorbed moisture from the environment and the RE-RUSTING process has already started. Bubbles will bloom again in spring.
Isaiah Welch you mean when you prime it, make sure you're planning to paint it that same day and keep it in a garage on a hot day? Or at least keep fans going, yeah?
@@OnlyTheBrave81 : I would say paint it within 72 hours. Most people would say to try and paint it the same day, but if you cannot do so, make sure to try and get the first coat of paint on within 72 hours, then sand. But the point is, if you don't do that, then you risk having to start over.
Brilliant job.! You’ve given me the confidence to fill and paint a rusty hole in the top of my Ford Crown Victoria where it was drilled to install an antenna. It shouldn’t even be as difficult as this job as it’s a flat area. Thanks for posting.! 👍🏻
It’s cheaper for me to take my vehicle to my bump and paint guy in the spring. Life is too short to spend three to four days on a rust spot. I’m on the back nine and don’t have time for this .😂
I'm so glad I came by this great video, I have a 2013 white Skoda Yeti which we love, but door corners are rusting, bubbles of rust coming in panels here and there, etc, the rest being quite good. We got a repair/re-spray quote of over £3k to fix it, but would never get that back. One body shop declined to quote. I had decided to tackle it myself, as I did with affordable bangers in my youth over 50 years ago, and these clear instructions will help a lot, giving me the confidence needed. Many thanks for your efforts.
what are you talking about xD xD people have been doing this sort of repairs on quarter panel of honda EG5 or EG6 for past 2 or 3 decades lol and trust me fixing your fender in that master is simply not worth it could be for sole fast of crap metal quality that will run soonwr or later (aftermarket china part) best GET OEM !!!!
Even though your panel looks like it's sanded down to bare metal there are usually still rust present not visible to the naked eye. I believe you first need to convert and seal this rust on the bare metal to prevent rust from coming back. I like to use Dinitrol RC900 rust converter with epoxy sealing compound for this. Then I like to use 2K primer and also 2K clear coat
Very concise guide on how to do this type of work. I've never done any body work before and I was able to fix a rust hole on my jeeps fender. I managed to do a decent job because of this video
Yesterday i did it in my truck, today i gonna paint it, thank you a lot, i saw 20 videos and nobody explain the process of the paint and was pretty cheap, 45$ the materials in walmart and 4 hours, but i had a battery sander, that help me a lot too
You have missed 1 process Before applying body filler on the bare metal The surface must be coated with epoxy primer. Some situations When the body cracks in a microscope level. It will create a void for the water moisture to get connect with bare metal not Epoxy primed . It will cause rust to build up under the body filler after some time the body filler cracks open only then we get notice rust build up
I’ve used this video over the last few days for the arch’s on my E46 BMW and they have come out amazing. First time I’d ever done anything like this as well. Thank you bud.
I would consider using some rust converter (phosphoric acid) around to prep the area before priming, and in areas that have not been painted on the inside.I would also use fisholine to protect those areas. Some tough oil paints will go over fisholine when it has had time to settle over a week or two. Most of that rust I would have thought would have come from the inside rather than the outside. Another filler that is much better than car plasic fillers for very small pin holes is JB weld. JB weld have a kwick weld version now which dries faster. It's very strong and can be filed and sanded.
Marvelous work! I really like how you go into details without being too wordy. Everything is straight to the point. I have subscribed to your channel. Looking forward for more useful tips for repair!
Amazing video. Highly detailed and explaining everything! For people new to this process, I recommend using a Dual Action or Random Orbital polisher than a rotary polisher as it's MUCH MORE FORGIVING and less likely to burn through the clear coat.
Good video! Im going to try this on my rear quarter panel lip because I can't remove the quarter panel. If u had a rusty front fender like this I would have scanned the junk yards or bought a new fender. Then I could paint it all at once. I have a feeling the rust will come back in a year or two on this front fender.
When you remove rust like this (blank polished metal) I would recomend to sand it before primer with fine sandpaper. This will make adhesion, also put on rust-stop. Been doing this for 40 years. Just a start up tip. 🙂
He should have use some epoxy rust stop on bare metal, the black areas in metal will start rust again. And after that he should have use primer on that metal, And then apply body filler. It would last longer.
Thanks for the video. I would have liked to see you place the body patch that you mentioned at the 2:00 minute mark. It had already been installed when the fiberglass filler was being applied.
Was about get a new sideskirt welded in which is about 300-400 euros, due to your video i tried to fix it myself with your method on my bmw e36 and it looks like a brand new sideskirt. Thank you so much, i owe you
people like yourself make youtube worth watching. Thank you.
4 роки тому+12
think it's only worth the main bodywork,threshold,rear fender ,which is a screw-soluble element , it's worth getting from a demolition, cheaper than glett, sandscreen, materials !! By the way, you're good, good working man :)
The folding the masking tape tip was great. Getting the edge of the paint to not be raised. I would probably used an anti rust treatment before priming though and would have welded in a repair piece.
The whole point of the vid was to show how to make it look decent without welding. For those that want to tackle welding, he has a how-to for that too.
@@steve8803 yeah, I don't know how and don't wanna do welding, I just pulled in a 1980 Fiat Spider, the arches are bad, looks like they were done once before, gonna start sanding at some point this winter and see what's left! Gonna watch your vid on welding, I got a whole fender to put on in my future!
Thank you for taking the time to create and post this video... it is the metaphorical helping hand for the likes of me, with no experience at all of such matters, when looking to have a go at patching up my car.
I just did some work on my car. Made a mess of the clearcoat.. I should've gone back to your video for a refresher, but I couldn't find it. Best, most detailed explanation every. I also got a kick out of your accent.
Lots of practical tips in this straightforward and exceptional video. Thanks so much. I do wish you had taken a few seconds more to explain how to position the mesh to keep the contour line. Thanks again.
You've got some great information on your channel. I stumbled across your videos 5 days ago, in turn I've spent the last 3 days repairing my 22 year old eclipse wheels and so far I'm in primer with GREAT results from a rattle can. Keep it up and thanks for making it look easy👍
The only permanent cure is cut out the rust and weld in new metal. Filler never ever keeps rust away for long. But he’s done a lovely job and he would have told the customer the real cure is new metal, and the customer probably said “ sure, stick some filler in there, it’ll be fine so it will”.
Excellent , simple , clear and helpful ....also little "fluff" ..just what many interested folk need...great job and thank you for your efforts . Bill in Devon .
Not sure why this video appeared on my YT list but I have watched it several times and find it very informative to say the least. Great direction with out taking a month to do it. That looks like a great repair job too.
Great instructions. Now I actually need to do this (groan)...I’ve just tried to ignore rust on my Jeep and now it looks like a real project. I feel like my tanning experience would be helpful with the painting part. Hopefully. Cheers!
great video! im about to touch up the rear wheel well areas on the bed of my truck. this video is exactly what i needed. same kind of rust/damage, just in a different location on the vehicle
@@IxAlwaysxWin yeah. i brought my truck to a friends uncle who used to own a body shop. we patched the rust the same way as the video, but after a few weeks, the rust came back trough the new paint and body filler. At least there is no holes in the bed of my truck now
I'm bout to do this for the first time and honestly it's like patching holes in walls and floating out uneven spots. I'm pretty confident I'll have no issues except figuring out where to get some paint in a spray can matched to the color of the vehicle.
Simple, straight to the point. Love how your instructions really let people know that anyone can do this with a little patience. That's the big takeaway I have of this video. Take your time.
Im not a proffesional ''rust'' fixer. Have only done 1 car before in my life, but its time to take on my 2nd car. Got some rust spots here and there ( passat b6) aka rustbucket. Thanks for this video , will try and do a nice jobb on it :D
with this method you will not stop the further spread of rust, the metal will rot and the putty will remain))) and when you apply the putty, you need to press it in so that there is no air in it. with such layers you can apply caviar on bread but not putty)) what can I say how did you make the transition under the varnish is .... read the literature on how to make the transition over the varnish correctly ...
Thanks great job!! I have an Antique car that has a little rust around the borders. Don't have the funds $$ just yet to take it to the shop. Since I'm extremely handy and a quite learner. I'm going to preform 1st aid and remove and stop the rust. 🇹🇹👋🏽
Pat that was a brilliant idea with rolling the masking tape back so not to get a hard line. Never done that b4 and as they say……u learn something new everyday 👍
I've got to say, this is a great video. 👍 It is by far informative and, almost, professional in content. I thank you very much for taking your time and giving a good explanation on the steps. Fantastic job.
I recently found a really bad rust spot in the boot of my Mustang near where the boot lid bolts the car. There was water dropping through the rust holes into the boot so I know it’s pretty bad. I looked up DIY fixes and came across your video. I’m gonna give it a try. Luckily it’s in a very low visibility area so I don’t have to worry too much about the paint blending. Thank you for posting this video!
I had a huge rust spot in the same area on my 2008 Jetta. That foam piece is like a giant sponge holding water in that area. I just went and purchased an pre-painted fender locally and replaced it. Looks perfect now and only took a couple hours to replace. Around $280 as I recall.
These odd European brands always get me. I was in Dublin, Ireland many times and always, as a 1/2 Italian 1/2 Irish Bensonhurst, Brooklyn boy visiting family in Ireland was always a treat.
That is a fabulous job on that rusted out section. I have a similar scrape and some rust on a rear fender by the back door, which I have neglected. Hopefully it’s not too rusted. After watching this, I have some confidence in being able to DIY it. I have done some body work in the distant past, so it wouldn’t be too much of a stretch for me. Thanks for the info! 😬🤙🏼
Brilliant video, really helped me out dealing with the wheel arches on my MK6 transit campervan!! First timer dealing with rust and spary painting and happy with the outcome. Thanks again...
Right before the bondo fully cures, it's still easy to cut. Take a sharp knife or a "chees grater" (one of those tools with sharp grating holes) and take off most of the excess. It saves a lot of time sanding. Also, rough sand with rough screen sandpaper before it fully cures. Of course do the finer work after it has fully hardened.
@@Seune205 it will make the van look better for the mot and a can just do it again when it comes back plus its cost next to nothing to do. Thanks for the advice tho 👍🏻
You are the man! Been having a right nightmare sorting my arches 👍🏻 you’d think I’d of learned this after owning an e46 but never had rust issues 🤷🏻♂️
What an excellent video mate. Well presented with all the detail, clear advice to do things properly and a great example on your car. Well done and thank you for such a great tutorial.
Great tutorial. I feel like I can make this repair myself. So many times you want to get rid of a perfectly good car because it has some slight imperfections, now we know we can fix ourselves at home. Thanks
This was great! Very well explained and the results are fantastic. You really got me thinking I might be able to tackle this on my ride. Thank you for sharing the knowledge!!!
I am an artist and I feel like I can absolutely do this to my car haha you’ve got quite the craftsmanship! I’m gonna try this hope it turns out as good
I have done a lot of body work over the yrs, this was the best repair video I have seen in a while. Very simple, well spoken with full instruction. My hat goes off to you! 🍀
I have to do the exact same thing on my truck and been wondering what would be the best way to go about it and im definitely going with this video was super helpful thx
undersealing the back side of the edge of the wings makes a huge difference its messy but works also using a rust chem before filling helps allot, fiberglass filler love that gear
Maybe you guys want to repair your rust by welding? If so I have a video on the topic ua-cam.com/video/FpE5kh5ftHk/v-deo.html
Mad4Motors hey bro can you fix rust I have rust on my car a little not to much how can I fix it?
Hi check out the video 👍
Sex m
Kamera
Mad4Motors where are you based in the UK?
I bought a car which have some chips on the bonnet! I wonder if you could suggest someone to fix it for me?
This was a cheating bro
The first and most important process is the removal of the rust. Sanding away as much rust as possible with abrasive papers, both outside and inside the panel won't be enough for a lasting repair. Rust on cars, or as I like to refer to it, "Auto Cancer" has to be treated like cancer. When the "cancer" is cut out, you must get every cell removed, otherwise one remaining cell will propagate and grow. It's the difference between remission and cure. After reaching the sanding level shown in your video, continue to remove the smallest traces of rust with a rotary wire brush wheel, followed by small grinding stones on a Dremel tool. The extra time here will provide large dividends. Finally, coat the previously rusted area with an oxidizing rust inhibitor / converter and allow it to soak into the tiniest cavities that may contain rust particles and allow the converter to fully dry. When fully dry, re-sand the top surface of clean metal before application of body filler and primer. I have a 21 year old van that was developing extensive areas of rust 15 years ago. After repairs, only 2 areas have required further attention and about 8 other areas have remained "rust cancer" free.
The black part is also rust . It s not removed
Also, if you do NOT Get the rust from UNDER that panel, it will come RIGHT back, and mostly in just a couple of months! It just does not work. Done this well for years, and I can tell you, putting on fresh metal is the ONLY fix for a good car. Unless it is a car you really don't care how long it lasts. It is just a temp fix at best. NEVER prime without doing a paint coat over it same day. Primer is pourus, designed to have tooth for the paint going on top of it.
You're the real MVP.
Total a gree this repair will not last... the best way to get rid of rust is to sandblast then use muriatic acid to kill the cancer in the microscopic pores. Then neutralize the acid with baking soda or vinegar. I would then use phosphoric acid to create a phosphoric coating to prevent flash rusting does not occur. I would then proceed with welding or your repair. I would only use 2K epoxy primer to seal the bare metal.the proceed with body work.
@@772777777777777 Excellent steps! Especially if it is for your car/truck project! It takes huge amounts of time just to prep for paint, no matter what process, so why not do it right. However, some have a cheap car and are either flipping it and getting it to look nice, or just want a quick fix, which does not last very long. Having spent the money for supplies, and already strip an area, may as well do it proper...but hey, just my 2 cents. Tried it when I was younger on my daily driver, and soon was wishing I had just gone in and done it much better than I had done. Live and learn!:) LOL Cheers mate!
I've been doing minor paint and touch up body work for 20-years for my little car dealership this is one of the best videos I've ever seen thank you for making it simple
HE DID A GREAT JOB 👍THE ONLY THING THAT I CAN'T USE THAT MATERIAL, I LIKE TO USE BONDO GLASS /I KNOW HIS MATERIAL IS BETTER, FOR THIS JOB U HAVE TO COVER YOUR FACE AN ARM , ANOTHER MATERIAL THAT IS REALLY GOOD BUT MORE MONEY IS "MONKEY HAIR, GREAT VIDEO
What’s your sales name, just so I can steer well clear of it...🤦🏻♂️
That's why I never buy any used car from a Dealership.
genau so ein pfuscher wenn sie das gut finden das ist was fürn ali autohändler um kunden zu betrügen
@@robertkatlol what
When I'm spraying with cans of paint I always put the cans sitting in warm water for 20 minutes or so to heat the paint, it goes on much better.
Nice tip. Ty
As it should be done🤫
I'll give it a try. Been putting mine in the oven. Just don't leave them in to long :p
Nice tip. Especially helpful that Scotland is freezing. 👍
@@johnsmith-bt4hv I did this but I screwed up the Sunday roast so now I just chuck em on the radiator
Hi, as someone who works with lead as a filler, I would like to tell you how much I enjoyed this video, so practical and the Tech behind it is spot on. Your use of off the shelf products will be a boon to DIY'ers, well done. Just as a side note, Steel Naval Jelly is another off the shelf product that can help to 100% avoid the return of rust, a couple of coats, wash off, then the self etch. Anyway, great video as is, again well done.
Blue Mule
NC USA
Steel Naval Jelly is maybe the most underrated product on the planet...
Nice job 👍, just remember anyone watching don't use body filler to fill the rust hole as it attracts moisture, whereas fibre glass filler does not and your repair lasts a whole lot longer
Thanks for posting.
i use filler all the time ,,newtech carbon fibre reinforced filler ,it sticks to rust like poo to a blanket , its made for those jobs repels moisture ,it's amazing & lasts way faster cheaper less hassle ,have you not tried it ?
@@jonsmith6982 thanks ill check it out .
I was a time served spray painter who of course never worked with cans. The one thing that made the job easier was when you had sprayed your final coats much like the video, was you then sprayed a 'fine thinner' between the fresh paint and the rest of the panel. The fine thinner would evaporate/blend the edge of the new paint onto the existing paint. Meaning as long as your prep work was good then you only had to polish where you had de-nibbed rather than sanding the whole area and polishing. It would be interesting to know whether such a thinner was available in a can as it would give a far more desirable finish.
“Spot blender” and it comes in can for melting the edges
Can you rub the thinner on with a rag?
Just to be 200% safe I always put a rust preventer on the bare metal to kill any remaining tiny bits of rust that might still be there before the primer. Belt and braces. Good video 👍🏼
bonkey dollocks would like a rust dissolver work? Then clean it off and paint?
@@zenkikijp9667 hi, when you have sanded back to bare metal you put it on then because no matter how clean and sanded the metal looks there will always be tiny bits of rust in it. Put a coating on and let dry for 15 mins then repeat. It turns from a grey colour to black, that's when it's cured. Then just carry on with the repair, filler and flatting then primer. I used to use a product called Ku-rust, I think it's still available.. Basically it neutralises rust and kills it. If you don't use anything like it the WILL come back.
I have been detailing for the last 5 yrs and never had the guts to get into body repair. This month I started learning masking and sanding. With these videos I believe I'll have the confidence to do some body work. Thank you sir!
if you are learning detailing from this clip I have no more comments - good luck. I will keep away from you
@@brudgerfrudger2174 They don't know any better yet. You could be more constructive.
Sometimes your can find somewhat damaged parts at junkyards or online for cheap for free that you can practice on. Read a lot and watch a lot to get better approaches/standards as many people tell you to do different things but often there are more professional and long-lasting techniques you need to make good repairs. Most people will not pay you serious money to spray paint their cars but some will ask if their car is cheaper and they don't expect it to be in showroom condition. Practice a bit before you start fixing other people's cars because that's a way to avoid a bad reputation and having to deal with angry people and possibly even court.
@@brudgerfrudger2174 WHERE did they say they were learning detailing from this clip? Oh yeah, they DIDN'T! WTG
Honestly, probably never going to trust myself to do this to my PRIUS, but absolutely fascinating to see you work. Shows what can be done at home with basic equipment and know-how
A prius wouldn't be worth the time anyway.
I'd sand it out and spray it just to keep the rust from getting worse
@@barristanselmy2758 If they've already spent a few thousand on any car, it would be a good idea to make sure it doesn't turn to rust.
Very well described and explained. It's amazing how well you can achieve a very satisfactory finish using basic equipment and shaker cans. It's all about the preparation and being patient. You rightly stress this several times. Enjoyed every second of your video.
Several decades ago when i first tackled a similar wheel arch job, I surprised myself at the very satisfactory result. Amateur me improves with each subsequent job I tackle.
Well said, I agree 😊👍
To buy more time before the rust comes back ( it will) tap down all rusted areas before spreading filler or glass. Only way to repair rust for good is to cut out rot and remetal or repanel.
PROBABLY 3 WEEKS, AND WATER BUBBLES WILL APPEAR...
@@danbrown4850 yeah the only way to fix rust is to cut the metal out completely and use fibre glass or get new panels. I managed to fix mine and has still held up 6 months later. Once sanded down I just loaded any rust areas up with hammerite rust converter as it seals it in from oxygen
If it comes back it's only because of a moisture issue in that spot. You could sand it and paint it only and it would hold up from then on unless moisture somehow gets to the raw metal underneath again. Rust isn't a lifelong illness. Kinda like in this video the rubber piece behind it was allowing moisture to constantly be in that spot.
Mind-blowingly good: clear instructions, great commentary, super useful. Thanks a million.
One piece of advice that I got from a 45-year body man: With primer, _NEVER_ just put primer on the car, without finishing the work. The reason is this: Primer, when exposed to rain, will soak it up, like a sponge -- and in all probability, make things much worse for the metal underneath.
My favorite color is primer grey......i used to paint my used trucks with primer in the early 90s
Thanks ! I am getting ready put primer on my 1991 classic buick , I will take your advice
You often see someone driving around who has done a very nice job of rust repair, smoothing the panels and recreating the body lines. Then they have primed the repaired area and sanded to achieve a beautiful transition between the primer and paint, but they haven't had time yet to apply a colour coat or clear coat. Unfortunately, they have greatly compromised their effort by allowing the primer coat to be exposed to the atmosphere for more than even a couple of hours. The primer coat has already absorbed moisture from the environment and the RE-RUSTING process has already started. Bubbles will bloom again in spring.
Isaiah Welch you mean when you prime it, make sure you're planning to paint it that same day and keep it in a garage on a hot day? Or at least keep fans going, yeah?
@@OnlyTheBrave81 : I would say paint it within 72 hours. Most people would say to try and paint it the same day, but if you cannot do so, make sure to try and get the first coat of paint on within 72 hours, then sand.
But the point is, if you don't do that, then you risk having to start over.
Brilliant job.! You’ve given me the confidence to fill and paint a rusty hole in the top of my Ford Crown Victoria where it was drilled to install an antenna. It shouldn’t even be as difficult as this job as it’s a flat area. Thanks for posting.! 👍🏻
Same where. Crown Vic rust so bad. Im in Ohio where it snows
It’s cheaper for me to take my vehicle to my bump and paint guy in the spring. Life is too short to spend three to four days on a rust spot. I’m on the back nine and don’t have time for this .😂
I'm so glad I came by this great video, I have a 2013 white Skoda Yeti which we love, but door corners are rusting, bubbles of rust coming in panels here and there, etc, the rest being quite good. We got a repair/re-spray quote of over £3k to fix it, but would never get that back. One body shop declined to quote. I had decided to tackle it myself, as I did with affordable bangers in my youth over 50 years ago, and these clear instructions will help a lot, giving me the confidence needed. Many thanks for your efforts.
Watched alot of these type of videos never seen a blend done like that, great info thanks
what are you talking about xD xD people have been doing this sort of repairs on quarter panel of honda EG5 or EG6 for past 2 or 3 decades lol and trust me fixing your fender in that master is simply not worth it could be for sole fast of crap metal quality that will run soonwr or later (aftermarket china part) best GET OEM !!!!
@@BlondynCh or you can get fiber benders anf never worry about rust
Even though your panel looks like it's sanded down to bare metal there are usually still rust present not visible to the naked eye. I believe you first need to convert and seal this rust on the bare metal to prevent rust from coming back. I like to use Dinitrol RC900 rust converter with epoxy sealing compound for this. Then I like to use 2K primer and also 2K clear coat
And a Dremel with a fine wire attachment to get into the nooks and crannies, then treatment.
@@TheScouseassassin sick
Very concise guide on how to do this type of work. I've never done any body work before and I was able to fix a rust hole on my jeeps fender. I managed to do a decent job because of this video
Exactly what I've been looking for! Clear, concise and totally doable for the DIYer. Good man.
Yesterday i did it in my truck, today i gonna paint it, thank you a lot, i saw 20 videos and nobody explain the process of the paint and was pretty cheap, 45$ the materials in walmart and 4 hours, but i had a battery sander, that help me a lot too
no
You have missed 1 process
Before applying body filler on the bare metal
The surface must be coated with epoxy primer.
Some situations
When the body cracks in a microscope level. It will create a void for the water moisture to get connect with bare metal not Epoxy primed . It will cause rust to build up under the body filler after some time the body filler cracks open only then we get notice rust build up
I’ve used this video over the last few days for the arch’s on my E46 BMW and they have come out amazing. First time I’d ever done anything like this as well. Thank you bud.
are the archs on your bmw still rust free after one year?
@@moal1765 yeah mate
@@moal1765 Mine are after 6 effing years. now go back in yer hole
@@jamesstimpson9271what about two!
Have to say you did a cracking no nonsense training video there ,,spot on matey thanks for your work ...
I’m Brazilian and Pakistani, but Irish in my past life. You guys have the best accent, wish I could learn everything in this voice 😂
You have to drink more beer!!
i'm originally from boston and thought he said "car" as i do. but he is actually from ireland?! WOW. ( i needed this video for my F-150.)
I would consider using some rust converter (phosphoric acid) around to prep the area before priming, and in areas that have not been painted on the inside.I would also use fisholine to protect those areas. Some tough oil paints will go over fisholine when it has had time to settle over a week or two. Most of that rust I would have thought would have come from the inside rather than the outside. Another filler that is much better than car plasic fillers for very small pin holes is JB weld. JB weld have a kwick weld version now which dries faster. It's very strong and can be filed and sanded.
I painted my car just as you showed me and I'm really chuffed with it cheers!!! I keep looking at it thinking I can't believe I did it haha!!!
Great work send me a picture on insta!
This is the best video on rust repair without welding that I have seen. And I have seen many. Thank you Mad4Motors !!!
Marvelous work! I really like how you go into details without being too wordy. Everything is straight to the point. I have subscribed to your channel. Looking forward for more useful tips for repair!
Amazing video. Highly detailed and explaining everything!
For people new to this process, I recommend using a Dual Action or Random Orbital polisher than a rotary polisher as it's MUCH MORE FORGIVING and less likely to burn through the clear coat.
But at 3:50, the wire tape stuff is in place with no explanation as to how. Why skip this important part?
@@matoko123 watch it again. all is explained
Good video! Im going to try this on my rear quarter panel lip because I can't remove the quarter panel. If u had a rusty front fender like this I would have scanned the junk yards or bought a new fender. Then I could paint it all at once.
I have a feeling the rust will come back in a year or two on this front fender.
When you remove rust like this (blank polished metal)
I would recomend to sand it before primer with fine sandpaper.
This will make adhesion, also put on rust-stop.
Been doing this for 40 years.
Just a start up tip. 🙂
What grit 220?
I would appreciate your step write up! About to repair rust for the first time
A Christian fine sandpaper. Different names I guess.
He should have use some epoxy rust stop on bare metal, the black areas in metal will start rust again. And after that he should have use primer on that metal, And then apply body filler. It would last longer.
40 years huh? So then u should no rust stop is crap. Once there’s rust, it will always be there
Thanks for the video. I would have liked to see you place the body patch that you mentioned at the 2:00 minute mark. It had already been installed when the fiberglass filler was being applied.
How did he actually attach the mesh? I was thinking the same thing and I def wanna know how he did it
Love this guy’s attention to detail.
You can see chrisfix video
Was about get a new sideskirt welded in which is about 300-400 euros, due to your video i tried to fix it myself with your method on my bmw e36 and it looks like a brand new sideskirt. Thank you so much, i owe you
people like yourself make youtube worth watching. Thank you.
think it's only worth the main bodywork,threshold,rear fender ,which is a screw-soluble element , it's worth getting from a demolition, cheaper than glett, sandscreen, materials !!
By the way, you're good, good working man :)
What a thorough explanation. Never seen a better one on any subject. Everything in the video is clearly visible. Well done!!
The folding the masking tape tip was great. Getting the edge of the paint to not be raised. I would probably used an anti rust treatment before priming though and would have welded in a repair piece.
The whole point of the vid was to show how to make it look decent without welding. For those that want to tackle welding, he has a how-to for that too.
@@steve8803 yeah, I don't know how and don't wanna do welding, I just pulled in a 1980 Fiat Spider, the arches are bad, looks like they were done once before, gonna start sanding at some point this winter and see what's left! Gonna watch your vid on welding, I got a whole fender to put on in my future!
Thank you for taking the time to create and post this video... it is the metaphorical helping hand for the likes of me, with no experience at all of such matters, when looking to have a go at patching up my car.
I just did some work on my car. Made a mess of the clearcoat.. I should've gone back to your video for a refresher, but I couldn't find it. Best, most detailed explanation every. I also got a kick out of your accent.
Lots of practical tips in this straightforward and exceptional video. Thanks so much. I do wish you had taken a few seconds more to explain how to position the mesh to keep the contour line. Thanks again.
..... with a very happy ending 😍
You've got some great information on your channel. I stumbled across your videos 5 days ago, in turn I've spent the last 3 days repairing my 22 year old eclipse wheels and so far I'm in primer with GREAT results from a rattle can. Keep it up and thanks for making it look easy👍
That sounds great, glad to hear it helped u out
@@Mad4Motors_My apologies, I meant to tag you in my previous comment. I just discovered your channel, can't wait to see more! Thanks 👌
would you be willing to should how the car looks today? did it hold up? thx for the video, you just got s new sub
Absolut curious about that.
Bubbles up fast again.
The only permanent cure is cut out the rust and weld in new metal. Filler never ever keeps rust away for long. But he’s done a lovely job and he would have told the customer the real cure is new metal, and the customer probably said “ sure, stick some filler in there, it’ll be fine so it will”.
Excellent , simple , clear and helpful ....also little "fluff" ..just what many interested folk need...great job and thank you for your efforts . Bill in Devon .
Not sure why this video appeared on my YT list but I have watched it several times and find it very informative to say the least. Great direction with out taking a month to do it. That looks like a great repair job too.
You make this process look a lot easier than it is...but looks amazing!
It will get easier with time. And it's way better to try and do it yourself, especially if it's a part that can be replaced if you mess up really bad.
Great instructions. Now I actually need to do this (groan)...I’ve just tried to ignore rust on my Jeep and now it looks like a real project. I feel like my tanning experience would be helpful with the painting part. Hopefully. Cheers!
great video! im about to touch up the rear wheel well areas on the bed of my truck. this video is exactly what i needed. same kind of rust/damage, just in a different location on the vehicle
Did you ever do it?
@@IxAlwaysxWin yeah. i brought my truck to a friends uncle who used to own a body shop. we patched the rust the same way as the video, but after a few weeks, the rust came back trough the new paint and body filler. At least there is no holes in the bed of my truck now
Nice friggin repair especially for people that DONT have welders, which most don't. Came out beautiful.
I'm bout to do this for the first time and honestly it's like patching holes in walls and floating out uneven spots. I'm pretty confident I'll have no issues except figuring out where to get some paint in a spray can matched to the color of the vehicle.
YOU ARE A LEGEND , QUICK AND SIMPLE.
Excellent instructional vid ... clear, concise steps with each process explained. Gives me the confidence to give this a go myself.
Simple, straight to the point. Love how your instructions really let people know that anyone can do this with a little patience. That's the big takeaway I have of this video. Take your time.
Im not a proffesional ''rust'' fixer. Have only done 1 car before in my life, but its time to take on my 2nd car. Got some rust spots here and there ( passat b6) aka rustbucket. Thanks for this video , will try and do a nice jobb on it :D
with this method you will not stop the further spread of rust, the metal will rot and the putty will remain)))
and when you apply the putty, you need to press it in so that there is no air in it. with such layers you can apply caviar on bread but not putty))
what can I say how did you make the transition under the varnish is .... read the literature on how to make the transition over the varnish correctly ...
Brilliant video, so easy to follow and so professional and articulate too with excellent voice over commentary and instructions. Well done.
Thanks great job!!
I have an Antique car that has a little rust around the borders. Don't have the funds $$ just yet to take it to the shop. Since I'm extremely handy and a quite learner. I'm going to preform 1st aid and remove and stop the rust. 🇹🇹👋🏽
You've inspired me to have a go at a small scuff on my bumper
Nicely done buddy. Planning on doing some repair on my car and I feel more confident now after watching your video. Thank you.
Pat that was a brilliant idea with rolling the masking tape back so not to get a hard line. Never done that b4 and as they say……u learn something new everyday 👍
Thank you for this. Been looking for guidance on fixing a few holes in the boot. Very timely indeed!
Dang bro it’s weird that you have rust in your shoes snd normally boots don’t have metal 😂
@@alexhaste5912 LMFAO
Steel-toe boots?
Great work man...love listening to your accent too...English guy from the USA
I've got to say, this is a great video. 👍 It is by far informative and, almost, professional in content. I thank you very much for taking your time and giving a good explanation on the steps. Fantastic job.
I recently found a really bad rust spot in the boot of my Mustang near where the boot lid bolts the car. There was water dropping through the rust holes into the boot so I know it’s pretty bad. I looked up DIY fixes and came across your video. I’m gonna give it a try. Luckily it’s in a very low visibility area so I don’t have to worry too much about the paint blending. Thank you for posting this video!
This is the best home body work video I've ever seen and I've watched several hundred. Well done mate.
But at 3:50, the wire tape stuff is in place with no explanation as to how. Why skip this important part?
Really, really Helpful. Thanks mate!
Back in the day molten lead was the thing for repairs, heat it up brush it out til you get buttery smooth
Yes it was quality, unfortunately expensive so body filler took over
nice work, i need to do some on mine when the weather gets better. ill be taking some of your tips with me!
I had a huge rust spot in the same area on my 2008 Jetta. That foam piece is like a giant sponge holding water in that area. I just went and purchased an pre-painted fender locally and replaced it. Looks perfect now and only took a couple hours to replace. Around $280 as I recall.
These odd European brands always get me. I was in Dublin, Ireland many times and always, as a 1/2 Italian 1/2 Irish Bensonhurst, Brooklyn boy visiting family in Ireland was always a treat.
That is a fabulous job on that rusted out section. I have a similar scrape and some rust on a rear fender by the back door, which I have neglected. Hopefully it’s not too rusted. After watching this, I have some confidence in being able to DIY it. I have done some body work in the distant past, so it wouldn’t be too much of a stretch for me. Thanks for the info! 😬🤙🏼
Good blend for a can . Shame the arch line wasn’t quite hard enough when you shaped the filler !
Brilliant video, really helped me out dealing with the wheel arches on my MK6 transit campervan!! First timer dealing with rust and spary painting and happy with the outcome. Thanks again...
Mate! Ive been quoted £900 quid for this both rears. !! After your video im gonna do it myself. Cheers! Keep up the Great work!
Right before the bondo fully cures, it's still easy to cut. Take a sharp knife or a "chees grater" (one of those tools with sharp grating holes) and take off most of the excess. It saves a lot of time sanding. Also, rough sand with rough screen sandpaper before it fully cures. Of course do the finer work after it has fully hardened.
I would never have though that was possible! Very clean and clear video.
Brilliant mate. I'm going to give this a go on my mk7 transit 🤞 wish me luck.
Darren Mc please dont..
@@Seune205 why not?
Darren Mc It will rust in a year.. this trick is used for years by amator carsalers 😉
@@Seune205 it will make the van look better for the mot and a can just do it again when it comes back plus its cost next to nothing to do. Thanks for the advice tho 👍🏻
Took an auto body class in high school, and this is pretty much exactly how we were taught. Thumbs up!
That's how we fix used cars Ha
We call that stuff, scuff and squirt
Great vid, I use a lump of filler wrapped in cling film to create a moulded sanding block so all the curves of the wheel arch are correct.
This video is incredible, this is exactly what I need to do with my car. Thank you for posting this.
You are the man! Been having a right nightmare sorting my arches 👍🏻 you’d think I’d of learned this after owning an e46 but never had rust issues 🤷🏻♂️
What an excellent video mate.
Well presented with all the detail, clear advice to do things properly and a great example on your car.
Well done and thank you for such a great tutorial.
Glad it was helpful!
How did you attach the aluminum mesh to the repair area?
It's sticky back bud
Great tutorial. I feel like I can make this repair myself. So many times you want to get rid of a perfectly good car because it has some slight imperfections, now we know we can fix ourselves at home. Thanks
THE BEST VIDEO I've seen on UA-cam for body repair!!!
Hope your next vid is on how to adopt that accent. Absolute mint.
This was great! Very well explained and the results are fantastic. You really got me thinking I might be able to tackle this on my ride. Thank you for sharing the knowledge!!!
As usual, brilliant presentation. Thank you.
I am an artist and I feel like I can absolutely do this to my car haha you’ve got quite the craftsmanship! I’m gonna try this hope it turns out as good
I have done a lot of body work over the yrs, this was the best repair video I have seen in a while. Very simple, well spoken with full instruction. My hat goes off to you! 🍀
Nice work! How much was the cost for this particular case? Do you have the list of materials and tools needed?
I have to do the exact same thing on my truck and been wondering what would be the best way to go about it and im definitely going with this video was super helpful thx
Snikle Fritz See above comment
Absolute belter of a video gonna be watching this a few times before I attempt the repairs on the sills, arches and doors of my golf lol
Thanks ,I learnt a lot ! Every day is a school day and I think you have a natural talent for teaching ! Thanks again !
4:15 telling us to use a dust mask, then proceeds to not wear one haha
Yes but i'm a pro 😊
U say it to to prevent whining i gues XD
Great job! You put in more to your repair than many do. thanks!
🙂Nice 1. Thanks for this, inspired me to have another go with better results thanks to your tips
so helpful. bought a used car that has some rust i wanna just fix up myself! ur the best
undersealing the back side of the edge of the wings makes a huge difference its messy but works also using a rust chem before filling helps allot, fiberglass filler love that gear