Good review! RE: your comment at around 12:00 - I've had this pedal for over 10 years now and there is no play whatsoever in the drive shaft. Still rock solid as new. Wanted to upgrade so I auditioned the new Yamaha DFP-9C over 2 days - it's an excellent pedal, brilliantly manufactured, but it just doesn't have the simplistic fast, linear feel of the Speed Cobra and I have big feet and the large footboard really works so I ended up buying another pair! Oh and the Yamaha soft carry bag is so whimpy compared to the Tama.
I agree these pedals are top notch I put some stainless steel titanium coated bearrings in both pedals recently Ive had them for4 yrs now. It took me awhile to get used to them but once I did I love them!!!
Great review! However, real question is about the clamp on main pedal. Heard it constantly moves the pedal away from bass drum while heavy playing. Did you have any issues this kind ?
Do you still prefer these to the demon drive? I have the SC and like them, but they feel too long for me. I don't have big feet and I am considering buying the demon drive since they are shorter. Thx!
Hi, have you played Trick Pro 1V's? I've been playing the Pearl DD for a few years but I'm not really happy with them. Been thinking about going Speed Cobra or the Tricks. Since I play double kicks the drive shaft is luckily not an issue.
Briefly had a go on the tricks. They are very good, but abit too ridged feeling.....but very, very good. If you like the direct drive feel go for it. The speed cobras are for me simply wonderful!! All the performance of direct drive with chain feel. Get a shot on speed cobras to see if you like. Personally I can't imagine any rock or metal drummer not liking them. Cheers for watching
Hi, if you still have the Trick Pros and you're in the UK I'd be happy to swap for my new speed cobras. I just cant get on with the speed cobras for some reason.
Just an observation on the drive shaft. At the moment you have it adjusted all the way to the right, if you moved it into the middle so there's an equal distance on each side you might find it will last longer. Or maybe it can't be moved to the left in the same way? Anyway cheers for the review, I'll be ordering a set.
@@heavydrumsinc4816 I'm somewhat surprised to hear that myself. I chewed through 4 tama drives in 2 years myself, wound up buying the Trick roller bearing retrofit shaft for my Iron Cobras (amazing btw, made the ICs play better than new, and I don't think I'll ever need to replace it again!). I checked your review on here a few months ago because I was moving to longboards and I'm a huge Tama fan, but I've always hated the shafts, and I hate the cobra coil addition to every Tama pedal in the line, so I wound up blind buying the new Bigfoot low mass because of the performance of that shaft lol. I'd 100% say get any Tama pedal if you have less than 1k to spend. Otherwise, look for a set of Tricks, ACD, or Czarcie Kopyto. Just FYI, you aren't minimizing fatigue by positioning your drive any kind of way, it's just putting more stress on the first shaft lugs than the beater side lugs. Tama shafts have always been weak so I don't know if it matters or not.
@@heavydrumsinc4816 And if you take that bit from left side of the main pedal? As i can see its just screwed on and the slave pedal has the same hole but with key holder.
Hi there. Indeed you actually can. You already have some of the holes you need in the frame and the base, and some others are not drilled, but are "marked". You can see as well that the metal plate is thinner in those spots. Just flip the pedal up side down, compare both sides and you'll see it clearly. Of course you'll have to buy some pieces and drill some holes, but since they're marked and metal is thinner there, you shouldn't have much trouble as far as you use the proper bits and tools. The inferior piece for the spring can be placed in the hole that holds the "key holder", wich is expendable (just keep the key in your stick bag or place the holder in the right pedal, where the left spring is originally, since you'll place it on the left pedal anyway). By deattaching the front anchor, you can use one of the existent holes to install the clamp (you'll have to drill another hole, since it requires 2 screws). And in the front side, there are 4 smaller holes you'll have to drill to install the rubber down part of the clamp (this is optional, but recommendable in order to protect you bass drum hoop and for a better grip). You'll need to buy the beater holder piece to install it in the axe and the clamp. And you can buy the spring and its attachements or just use the one you already have in the other side and change it everytime you need. It all sounds more complicated than it really is. Edit: I don't know if you're used to drill steel, but it can overheat and ruin the drill bit if you're not careful, depending on the type and thickness of the steel. So just drill little by little, don't insist much time on each spot, and cool down the bit every now and then with some water (just keep a glass of water by your side and wet the bit inside, or just drop a bit on it with your finger...). Anyway, I don't think the thickness and hardness of this metal plate is enough to give you any trouble, but just in case...
@@isihernandez9752 Thanks for the tips man.. I bought them a few months back and yes i saw it was possible with a little modifications. In the near future when i find another bass drum for my kit I'll definitely try it.
I've had Eliminators for the past twenty years and have been using their strap drives. The only thing that gives me slight pause with these SCs are the chain drives. Since you have experience with Eliminators, would you say that the SCs have a lighter feel? I need good response for quick doubles and am thinking of giving these a try..
I did have belt eliminators too. I'd say if you're happy with the eliminators don't switch. Personally speaking I can do the exactly same stuff at the same quality on both. For doubles I'd say the eliminators have a better bounce response. Thanks for watching
@@heavydrumsinc4816 I'm happy with them but have wondered for a while now if something would be better and even more responsive. I've never played a longer footboard and I have pretty big feet. If the SCs have a quicker/lighter feel and the longer board helps in that regard, that's enough to try. Have you ever tried the Dyna Syncs?
I love these but there is movement in the heel plate hinge. I don't know if they were like this brand new but I noticed movement after one week. It's like this in all the ones if seen in person after I noticed the wobble on mine. Just move the pedal side to side and you cans see it. If you put the pedal one a table and look inside the hole were the rod hinge is you can see the rod and bolts moving. If I was there in person I could show you. I use a trick drive shaft and DW control or Air beaters and love the feel but they can improve the hinge for the next gen. My DW 9002 and MDD's are built better but I prefer the way these feel. I use trick drive shafts on those as well. I'm going for the Dyna Syncs next and hopefully with the direct drive it will minimize the play in the heel. I hope they feel close to the Cobras. Something about the cobras feel great and I play my best on them. I like the 9002's but the MDD's I've had for years and still don't love them. I will probably need to sell them.
I've had them for 6 years and just played with the hinge movement. It's just a tiny bit of movement so I have bigger things to focus on but the Dynas should be fun. I hope to get them in a few weeks.
You just unscrew the nut at the side of the spring assembly and move it back or forward to suit. Plus you can then adjust the beater angle independently
Excellent question. I think that sounds a push. The adjustment of the beater is ok as its separate to the rest of the assembly. But the nuts on the end of the driveshaft start to hit the top of the spring assembly eventually. I've got it all the way up. At a guess I'd say its 3.5 to 4 inches maybe. I'll investigate!!
Heavy Drums Inc The Axis pedal is automatically 5 inches from the ground (highest point on the footboard to the ground) I was wondering if these could also go that high with the beater being reasonably back
The new Yamaha pedal can be set pretty high. I got it a lil while back but am trying to decide still between them and my 2018 iron cobra. The Yamaha’s much lighter and no doubt faster but the iron cobra has more control for me. But if I can develop more control with the Yamaha fp9 it’d be unstoppable. But easier said than done. I’d still like to try a speed cobra.
That's good news man. If you can try both, do so, both excellent, but For me speed cobra is less hassle and naturally smooth, less resistance in it at higher speeds. Plus the footboard on the cobra is actually slightly longer, even with d.d in long board.
@@heavydrumsinc4816ok thanks. I was thinking of getting the 310 as these will be my first double pedals but I guess from your review it’s worth spending the extra and going for the 910.
Good review! RE: your comment at around 12:00 - I've had this pedal for over 10 years now and there is no play whatsoever in the drive shaft. Still rock solid as new. Wanted to upgrade so I auditioned the new Yamaha DFP-9C over 2 days - it's an excellent pedal, brilliantly manufactured, but it just doesn't have the simplistic fast, linear feel of the Speed Cobra and I have big feet and the large footboard really works so I ended up buying another pair! Oh and the Yamaha soft carry bag is so whimpy compared to the Tama.
Just bought these pedals used tonight! Thanks for the recco!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching
I agree these pedals are top notch I put some stainless steel titanium coated bearrings in both pedals recently Ive had them for4 yrs now. It took me awhile to get used to them but once I did I love them!!!
Great review. Thanks.
Glad it was useful. Thanks for watching man.
Buying these tomorrow. Thanks for the help
Awesome news!!!
Got mine today
@@steveorchiton8733 mine coming in 3 days ay
lucky you.
I got the new blackout 910’s a couple days ago. Massive upgrade over my first pair of pedals being the DW3000’s.
I wasn't aware there are now black models. A top pick up there
@@heavydrumsinc4816 limited edition run I think they are gone already. Now I just need to build to the skills to put them to proper use 🤘🏻
Talked me into it. Lol just got some used,and i also got some kevlar straps to convert it and see how it feels.
What do you think of them???
Great review! However, real question is about the clamp on main pedal. Heard it constantly moves the pedal away from bass drum while heavy playing. Did you have any issues this kind ?
Thanks man. Nooooo, I'd say it's been solid for me in that way.
Hi, great review. Does the drive shaft still hold up well ? Also I'm wondering if there is a play in the hinge on the pedals
Thanks! No play in hinges at all.
Drive shaft is ok, but I would upgrade it if you can to a zero lag.
@@heavydrumsinc4816 Thanks, I have already Trick driveshaft that I use on the old Pearl Eliminator pedals
Do you still prefer these to the demon drive? I have the SC and like them, but they feel too long for me. I don't have big feet and I am considering buying the demon drive since they are shorter. Thx!
Yeah more natural feel. The boards on this are definitely bigger so may suit you.
Hi, have you played Trick Pro 1V's? I've been playing the Pearl DD for a few years but I'm not really happy with them. Been thinking about going Speed Cobra or the Tricks. Since I play double kicks the drive shaft is luckily not an issue.
Briefly had a go on the tricks.
They are very good, but abit too ridged feeling.....but very, very good. If you like the direct drive feel go for it.
The speed cobras are for me simply wonderful!! All the performance of direct drive with chain feel.
Get a shot on speed cobras to see if you like. Personally I can't imagine any rock or metal drummer not liking them.
Cheers for watching
Hi, if you still have the Trick Pros and you're in the UK I'd be happy to swap for my new speed cobras. I just cant get on with the speed cobras for some reason.
Just an observation on the drive shaft. At the moment you have it adjusted all the way to the right, if you moved it into the middle so there's an equal distance on each side you might find it will last longer. Or maybe it can't be moved to the left in the same way? Anyway cheers for the review, I'll be ordering a set.
Yeah its like that to minimise power fatigue at the beater side. The drive shaft is holding up very well to my surprise.....
@@heavydrumsinc4816 I'm somewhat surprised to hear that myself. I chewed through 4 tama drives in 2 years myself, wound up buying the Trick roller bearing retrofit shaft for my Iron Cobras (amazing btw, made the ICs play better than new, and I don't think I'll ever need to replace it again!). I checked your review on here a few months ago because I was moving to longboards and I'm a huge Tama fan, but I've always hated the shafts, and I hate the cobra coil addition to every Tama pedal in the line, so I wound up blind buying the new Bigfoot low mass because of the performance of that shaft lol.
I'd 100% say get any Tama pedal if you have less than 1k to spend. Otherwise, look for a set of Tricks, ACD, or Czarcie Kopyto. Just FYI, you aren't minimizing fatigue by positioning your drive any kind of way, it's just putting more stress on the first shaft lugs than the beater side lugs. Tama shafts have always been weak so I don't know if it matters or not.
Hey man, good review! just one question.. is it possible to convert them into two single pedals? With buying additional parts of course.
Thanks man. I dont think you could, as there's no bottom bit for the spring to fit in on the slave side pedal.
@@heavydrumsinc4816 And if you take that bit from left side of the main pedal? As i can see its just screwed on and the slave pedal has the same hole but with key holder.
No...its like not got the holes built into the frame of the slave side pedal
Hi there. Indeed you actually can. You already have some of the holes you need in the frame and the base, and some others are not drilled, but are "marked". You can see as well that the metal plate is thinner in those spots. Just flip the pedal up side down, compare both sides and you'll see it clearly.
Of course you'll have to buy some pieces and drill some holes, but since they're marked and metal is thinner there, you shouldn't have much trouble as far as you use the proper bits and tools. The inferior piece for the spring can be placed in the hole that holds the "key holder", wich is expendable (just keep the key in your stick bag or place the holder in the right pedal, where the left spring is originally, since you'll place it on the left pedal anyway). By deattaching the front anchor, you can use one of the existent holes to install the clamp (you'll have to drill another hole, since it requires 2 screws). And in the front side, there are 4 smaller holes you'll have to drill to install the rubber down part of the clamp (this is optional, but recommendable in order to protect you bass drum hoop and for a better grip).
You'll need to buy the beater holder piece to install it in the axe and the clamp. And you can buy the spring and its attachements or just use the one you already have in the other side and change it everytime you need.
It all sounds more complicated than it really is.
Edit: I don't know if you're used to drill steel, but it can overheat and ruin the drill bit if you're not careful, depending on the type and thickness of the steel. So just drill little by little, don't insist much time on each spot, and cool down the bit every now and then with some water (just keep a glass of water by your side and wet the bit inside, or just drop a bit on it with your finger...). Anyway, I don't think the thickness and hardness of this metal plate is enough to give you any trouble, but just in case...
@@isihernandez9752 Thanks for the tips man.. I bought them a few months back and yes i saw it was possible with a little modifications. In the near future when i find another bass drum for my kit I'll definitely try it.
Nice video mate currently playing to find the right settings, great & fast pedal.
Thanks!! Yeah its perfectly made I think!
I've had Eliminators for the past twenty years and have been using their strap drives. The only thing that gives me slight pause with these SCs are the chain drives.
Since you have experience with Eliminators, would you say that the SCs have a lighter feel? I need good response for quick doubles and am thinking of giving these a try..
I did have belt eliminators too. I'd say if you're happy with the eliminators don't switch. Personally speaking I can do the exactly same stuff at the same quality on both. For doubles I'd say the eliminators have a better bounce response. Thanks for watching
@@heavydrumsinc4816 I'm happy with them but have wondered for a while now if something would be better and even more responsive. I've never played a longer footboard and I have pretty big feet.
If the SCs have a quicker/lighter feel and the longer board helps in that regard, that's enough to try. Have you ever tried the Dyna Syncs?
I love these but there is movement in the heel plate hinge. I don't know if they were like this brand new but I noticed movement after one week. It's like this in all the ones if seen in person after I noticed the wobble on mine. Just move the pedal side to side and you cans see it. If you put the pedal one a table and look inside the hole were the rod hinge is you can see the rod and bolts moving. If I was there in person I could show you. I use a trick drive shaft and DW control or Air beaters and love the feel but they can improve the hinge for the next gen. My DW 9002 and MDD's are built better but I prefer the way these feel. I use trick drive shafts on those as well. I'm going for the Dyna Syncs next and hopefully with the direct drive it will minimize the play in the heel. I hope they feel close to the Cobras. Something about the cobras feel great and I play my best on them. I like the 9002's but the MDD's I've had for years and still don't love them. I will probably need to sell them.
I've had them for 6 years and just played with the hinge movement. It's just a tiny bit of movement so I have bigger things to focus on but the Dynas should be fun. I hope to get them in a few weeks.
That's bad news. I must say I don't suffer from that with my set.
How thoes Trick Drums Dead Blow feels compare to original accu beat? Going to buy them for my speedcobra
Abit heavier, but not heavy, heavy.
Definitely a more click attack.
how do you get the pedal board to sit high mine is to low to the flat base beneath it..
You just unscrew the nut at the side of the spring assembly and move it back or forward to suit. Plus you can then adjust the beater angle independently
Hey man do you use the exact same spring tension on both pedals ?
Yes, 👍
can u have the foot-board super high (5 inches from the ground) and adjust the beater to b reasonable?
Excellent question. I think that sounds a push. The adjustment of the beater is ok as its separate to the rest of the assembly. But the nuts on the end of the driveshaft start to hit the top of the spring assembly eventually.
I've got it all the way up. At a guess I'd say its 3.5 to 4 inches maybe. I'll investigate!!
Heavy Drums Inc The Axis pedal is automatically 5 inches from the ground (highest point on the footboard to the ground) I was wondering if these could also go that high with the beater being reasonably back
The new Yamaha pedal can be set pretty high. I got it a lil while back but am trying to decide still between them and my 2018 iron cobra. The Yamaha’s much lighter and no doubt faster but the iron cobra has more control for me. But if I can develop more control with the Yamaha fp9 it’d be unstoppable. But easier said than done. I’d still like to try a speed cobra.
Does your slave pedal slide cause I want to buy speed cobras and I’m a really heavy hitter and I need something that won’t slide
Surprisingly No. The spikes do a very good job.
A couple of stick on velcro patches under it too just incase though.
cool review. does the pedal still hold up till now?
It's solid buddy.
@@heavydrumsinc4816 thinking of demon drive pedal but watching your video made me reconsider. thanks
That's good news man. If you can try both, do so, both excellent, but For me speed cobra is less hassle and naturally smooth, less resistance in it at higher speeds.
Plus the footboard on the cobra is actually slightly longer, even with d.d in long board.
I have just bought a trick drive shaft slave spring really noisey with it dont happen with cobra one any ideas thanks
No idea, sorry buddy. You could check to see if the spring is sitting straight
@@heavydrumsinc4816 hello mate i raises the foot board a inch seems to have sorted it slave hits harder with trick drive shaft cheers mate
i guess these are the 910s yeh? as they havet the cobra coils? or did you get the 310 and buy th ecobracoils separfate?
910's of course
@@heavydrumsinc4816ok thanks. I was thinking of getting the 310 as these will be my first double pedals but I guess from your review it’s worth spending the extra and going for the 910.
Original bitters are not too heavy for fast planning, i can't get used too, your bitters seems to be lighter.
Is the adjustability a big deal between the 310 and 910?
I haven't had a 310 dude.
Try a trick drive shaft! You will not be disappointed!
I did and I wasn't.
Did you prefer those over the demon drive?
Yes
deformitygurubashi: He mentions that he prefer the Speed Cobras over the Demon Drive like *5 times* in the video 😂
Any one had trouble with a sqeaky slave pedal ive done everything doing me brain in plays spot on
No trouble yet.
Try abit of "speed cream" on the moving parts. It's skateboard lube.