I enjoyed watching you change the gimbal bearing and I just noticed your shirt it’s the year 2023 and I’m 65 years old when I was 25 years old I was a musician in Philadelphia born and raised and that’s what I did for a living and I had a chance to go to the US Virgin Islands with CharliePros show band for the entire winter months.I was a bass player and we played at Frenchmans reef that was the Holiday Inn right on the Peak in Saint Thomas US Virgin Islands which was like totally a paradise. I can remember calling my mother and telling her mom I might not be making that much money here as a musician but every day it’s like a real paradise. St. Thomas US Virgin Islands beautiful shirt you have on. And I hope you got your gimbal bearing in properly
Thanks for sharing this and good job! I’m getting ready to do mine and I’ve never done this before. I feel more confident now after watching your video. Thanks again.
Many times I used what I had to get the job done I always hated not having the right tools to do the job now after what seems 100 years later it looks I got to many tools and no room hardly in my garage. Yet I dont have enough tools or big enough garage to this day everything just keeps on changing from parts to needing different tools.
nice job, all the measuring is a good idea to get it all the way in properly, but I have to say I burst out laughing when you picked up the concrete block because the hammer was too light, LOL!
I was checking my 1986-1993 OMC Cobra service manual and couldn't find the part number on that concrete block... j/k. Man that was hilarious! I had a good laugh watching that part. You did an awesome job. You got it done and I appreciate the help. Great video. Thanks.
I give you a lot of credit. In the beginning you said you're a chef and not a mechanic. I dont know any chefs that could do that. However, you had me laughing when you were trying to find the right size wrench. I kept yelling, saying get a adjustable wrench or take the bearing remover to the store with you to get the correct size. And using that little toy hammer sideways was pretty funny to. But you really made me laugh when you came back with that big cinder block. All in all, good job
I bought it on ebay. This is the one: www.ebay.com/itm/Mercruiser-Alpha-Bravo-Omc-Boat-Gimbal-Bearing-Installer-Puller-Align-Tools/281032172190?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Nie znam wymiarów, ale jest to łożysko potrzebne do pracy: www.ebay.com/itm/New-Plate-Driveshaft-Gimbal-Bearing-for-Volvo-Penta-OMC-21752712-3853807/313025895212?hash=item48e1cc1b2c:g:YEUAAOSwpIVeahxl
Hi Mike! Because my engine was OUT (not installed) at the time, I just had to set it far out enough to be able to drive the bearing in to the proper level. I remeasured that in a piece of wood as seen in this video. Hope that helps. Did you subscribe yet?
Yes, thanks. I beat the bearing in with a 2x4 (fully seated -used a shim to measure) but couldn't get the unit back in. Now bought the alignment tool and think have to pull the bearing out and beat it with the tool to align it with the cupler. Afraid i'm going to mess up the cupler if I drill the hole too far back
If you measured the distance on your OLD bearing before you pulled it (like I did in the video - on a piece of wood), you know how far in to hammer the new bearing.
I also had problems getting the unit back in. I ended calling for a friend to help me. We jacked up the trailer in order to allow the outdrive hang all the way down so the U joint could go in straight. Also have someone turn the crankshaft on the inside of the boat with a wrench so the splines can line up at the same time as you push the unit in.
And you got the crescent wrench and used it backwards. But you got it, so no worries. Those can slip off if used incorrectly. Dangerous if you have a lot of pressure on them when that happens. Same with the vise grips, the teeth are cut to hold one way.
@@chefgeir sorry wasn't trying to sound belligerent, just didn't want to see you bust your knuckles or your teeth. I've seen both happen. And if it makes you feel any better, I've been told the same.
A few tips: the right stuff to use on the gasket between the drive and the pivot housing is OMC gasket sealer, coat it on both sides. Also coat the threads for the studs that hold the drive on. Clean out the pocket where the shift cable comes out and pack it with OMC triple guard grease to keep out water. The little water passage o ring gasket, will stay in place better if coated with OMC triple guard grease. To get the drive on without such a struggle: 1) have boat parked on level ground, a dirt surfaces will make it as difficult as you found 2) get an outdrive jack that is height adjustable (I suggest Stumpy's Fab Works), I have one and it works great 3) put grease ONLY on the driveshaft splines (OMC triple guard) NOT on those 2 o rings, that can cause it to be difficult to go on, the o rings get lubed with motor oil ONLY and no grease on the tip of the driveshaft either, that can cause a hydraulic lock in the coupler and the drive will not slide on 4) get the pivot housing and drive at the same height (why the outdrive jack helps so much) and both lined up straight with each other 5) Before installing the drive slide in your alignment tool and when its all the way in, tap it on top, bottom, and on each side, this aligns the bearing straight 6) slide the driveshaft in carefully, try to keep it straight. 7) when its almost all the way on, take a thin long screwdriver and slide it through the u joint cross. Then use this to turn the driveshaft slightly to make the splines line up. Of course start with the outdrive itself in the neutral gear position. Additional tools/supplies needed: outdrive jack, long thin screwdriver, OMC gasket sealer, OMC triple guard grease patience, strong back
After all this, I ended up having to remove the outdrive again due to the gearshift cable being stuck. When I went to put it back in, I had to use a jack to lift the trailer up, in order to allow the outdrive to be straight down.
It can be a real pain. The cable when disconnected at both ends should have no more than 2.5 lbs of drag measured with a fish scale, but this should be done only if you want to go through all the adjustments.
When I am reinstalling the drive, I have someone work the shift control so I can see the bellcrank and the shift cable guide moving freely back and forth. If water gets into the little pocket behind the bellcrank it will leave deposits that will cause it to work stiffly. So have someone shift it with the drive off so that the cable guide is extended all the way back and clean it out. Then lube the shaft for the bell crank with motor oil and pack the whole recess with OMC triple guard grease (Evinrude blue snot we call it). Then coat that gasket really well on both sides with gasket sealer and also put gasket sealer on the mating surfaces of the pivot housing and the upper gear housing. This will really keep water out of the bell crank area, and shifting will not get stiff over the course of the season.
I have the same tool. I bought it off Ebay. It works fine for removing the gimball bearing, but it is poorly machined. I had to really pound the gimball installing part with a heavy hammer to get it on the shaft.
Hate to say it but you put the bearing in backwards. The 2 cut outs in the outer ring around the bearing are supposed to go in facing the engine, not the drive.
Thanks for your comment, but nope! Look at ua-cam.com/video/jD-0-re9lEQ/v-deo.html (18:04) and you can see the grove in the bearing (which is necessary to face the outdrive, and NOT the engine for when it needs to be pulled again).
@@montezwright1771 Nope again! Just use common sense. It is going to go in so when you need to pull it out again, you pull the WHOLE bearing assembly out, not just the center core! Use Logic!
You had your pliers on backwards but your biggest problem was, you wasn't long enough. You had no leverage. A long pipe wrench would've been better or a big crescent.
Installing the outdrive.. make sure the drive is in forward gear..and you can turn the prop with your hand as you push the unit forward..it helps if everything has been aligned with the tool first into the back of the motor crank.. that's why you have the engine installed first.. when you installed the engine with the drive installed it was a bitch. Aligning the coupler over the drive shaft wasn't it?? There's an order of assembly that you didn't follow..but I admire your moxie..
Latest obstacle is that when I was working on reinstalling all cables and hoses, I realized the gear shift cable was stuck. Thus, I had to remove the outdrive again. It is out now, and the shift cable is freed, but now I have to get it all back together again. It would have been a little easier in a shop..............with a second person to help, but that is not an option.
David Jessee, it appears that you have some experience with this. I have a question I hope you can help me with (or anybody else with experience with this) . I removed the outdrive again after I realized the gear shifter was stuck. The cable is fine and moves freely now, but I checked the receiving end of the gear shifter on the outdrive and IT is not moving. It is on the ground, away from the boat, nothing hooked up to it, it's in gear (axle turns when I turn the propeller) and I can NOT move the shifter up nor down (cant put in neutral or opposite gear) with my hand. Why? Why can't I? What can possibly prevent it from moving? The fact that it will not budge, may be the reason why it was so difficult to get the outdrive on last time. but either way, I need to find out how to make the shifter come loose again. Any suggestions?
chefgeir have u have the lower unit off the drive? As mabe to replace the water pump impeller? If yes. Then you probably didn't line up the splines correct.. if you take off the lower you need to make the shift shaft is in forward..and the thrift lever of the upper is in forward..
If you haven't split the upper from the lower ,and it worked fine before. Then your guess is good as mine.. check gearlube,. Water? With out getting to drastic try a little pressure on the shifter as you turn the shaft or prop..
Cringe!! The installer is also your alignment tool.. you're engine should be installed first, then your gimble bearing . Then your outdrive... It's like putting the cart in front of the horse..
I don't understand why you need an alignment tool? The position on the bearing is fixed once installed correctly correct? So I assume it's the engine side that has to align with the bearing bore. If so, what prevents the engine from simply moving out of allignment again once the allignment tool is removed? Why won't it simply allign when the spindle is installed without the allignment tool? Also, I don't understand why anyone would do this job and also not replace the bellows at the same time?
David Sine good point.. you're right. It is the engine that needs alignment check. You apply a thin layer of grease to the tool then slide it into the engine coupler,, What your looking it for is for the tool to slide into the engine smoothly with no hanging. Pull out the tool and look at the grease that you layered on previously.. it should have groove marks spread evenly around the tool. If it's had the grease rubbed off from the top top then the front of the engine is too low, and if it's too high the grease will be rubbed off the bottom of the tool,, and if it's out of alignment too bad the tool might not slide in the motor all together..hope this helps
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I enjoyed watching you change the gimbal bearing and I just noticed your shirt it’s the year 2023 and I’m 65 years old when I was 25 years old I was a musician in Philadelphia born and raised and that’s what I did for a living and I had a chance to go to the US Virgin Islands with CharliePros show band for the entire winter months.I was a bass player and we played at Frenchmans reef that was the Holiday Inn right on the Peak in Saint Thomas US Virgin Islands which was like totally a paradise. I can remember calling my mother and telling her mom I might not be making that much money here as a musician but every day it’s like a real paradise. St. Thomas US Virgin Islands beautiful shirt you have on. And I hope you got your gimbal bearing in properly
Fascinating story!
You must have been there about the same time the Mamas and the Papas were playing down there!
I love this video . As Soon as I saw the cinderblock come out I was like oh hell yeah
LOL!
Thanks for sharing this and good job! I’m getting ready to do mine and I’ve never done this before. I feel more confident now after watching your video. Thanks again.
Good luck with yours! Happy boating!
Many times I used what I had to get the job done I always hated not having the right tools to do the job now after what seems 100 years later it looks I got to many tools and no room hardly in my garage. Yet I dont have enough tools or big enough garage to this day everything just keeps on changing from parts to needing different tools.
True!
I think you did a great job! Thanks for making a very user friendly video.
Thanks Matthew! Did you subscribe yet?
nice job, all the measuring is a good idea to get it all the way in properly, but I have to say I burst out laughing when you picked up the concrete block because the hammer was too light, LOL!
LOL! As you can see, my working conditions are far from ideal. "A man got to do what a man got to do!"
I admire your spirit and your ingenuity, well done.
Thank you! Hope you subscribed!
I was checking my 1986-1993 OMC Cobra service manual and couldn't find the part number on that concrete block... j/k. Man that was hilarious! I had a good laugh watching that part. You did an awesome job. You got it done and I appreciate the help. Great video. Thanks.
Thanks!
I got the part number on that concrete block. If you need it, hit me up : )
I give you a lot of credit. In the beginning you said you're a chef and not a mechanic. I dont know any chefs that could do that.
However, you had me laughing when you were trying to find the right size wrench. I kept yelling, saying get a adjustable wrench or take the bearing remover to the store with you to get the correct size.
And using that little toy hammer sideways was pretty funny to. But you really made me laugh when you came back with that big cinder block.
All in all, good job
Thank you for your comments VR! Did you subscribe yet?
Please let us know how it goes
thanks for the videos i just bought a 89 bayliner and am replacing everything
would like a link to where you got the puller
Good luck, and please share your experience with our audience!
Can you please post details about the pulling tool and reinstall kit
I bought it on ebay. This is the one: www.ebay.com/itm/Mercruiser-Alpha-Bravo-Omc-Boat-Gimbal-Bearing-Installer-Puller-Align-Tools/281032172190?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
With the engine out you can pound the bearing out from inside the boat with an extension and socket? Is this true?
Sort of, but the difficult part is not pulling it out, but getting the new on in straight and all the way.
I feel for the guy; he paid someone to do this work and got screwed over. Great effort by a chef👍
Thank you Neil!
Witam
Można prosić o wymiary tego wałka do montażu łożyska ?
Nie znam wymiarów, ale jest to łożysko potrzebne do pracy: www.ebay.com/itm/New-Plate-Driveshaft-Gimbal-Bearing-for-Volvo-Penta-OMC-21752712-3853807/313025895212?hash=item48e1cc1b2c:g:YEUAAOSwpIVeahxl
@@chefgeir Pytam o wymiary tego www.ebay.com/itm/Sierra-18-4442-Engine-Alignment-Tool-Mercury-4719-/283348858835
@@jasiuowadek6238 Przepraszam, nie wiem tego. Być może możesz zapytać sprzedawcę narzędzia?
Great video!
Thanks!
Thank's for the video, how far up from the tip -part that goes in the engine- did you drill the hole for the bearing installer
Hi Mike! Because my engine was OUT (not installed) at the time, I just had to set it far out enough to be able to drive the bearing in to the proper level. I remeasured that in a piece of wood as seen in this video. Hope that helps. Did you subscribe yet?
Yes, thanks. I beat the bearing in with a 2x4 (fully seated -used a shim to measure) but couldn't get the unit back in. Now bought the alignment tool and think have to pull the bearing out and beat it with the tool to align it with the cupler. Afraid i'm going to mess up the cupler if I drill the hole too far back
If you measured the distance on your OLD bearing before you pulled it (like I did in the video - on a piece of wood), you know how far in to hammer the new bearing.
I also had problems getting the unit back in. I ended calling for a friend to help me. We jacked up the trailer in order to allow the outdrive hang all the way down so the U joint could go in straight. Also have someone turn the crankshaft on the inside of the boat with a wrench so the splines can line up at the same time as you push the unit in.
For future reference put a board under the tilt housing attached to the boat and it wont bind up!
Thanks for input!
Thank you Great info , I’ve have to do the same.. by the way where did you buy the bearing puller from?
I bought it on Ebay. I sold it after I was finished with it.
Chef, have you ever replaced the u-joints?
No. Did not have to (fortunately). They are attached to the outdrive and require to open "another can of worms"!
That gimbal bearing was a bugger! Mine went in just afew taps, all day job in the sun its 100's here already lol
Yes, a "bugger" is right! lol
And you got the crescent wrench and used it backwards. But you got it, so no worries. Those can slip off if used incorrectly. Dangerous if you have a lot of pressure on them when that happens. Same with the vise grips, the teeth are cut to hold one way.
Thanks for your input Aaron!
@@chefgeir sorry wasn't trying to sound belligerent, just didn't want to see you bust your knuckles or your teeth. I've seen both happen. And if it makes you feel any better, I've been told the same.
@@aaronwood3540 Thanks!
A few tips:
the right stuff to use on the gasket between the drive and the pivot housing is OMC gasket sealer, coat it on both sides. Also coat the threads for the studs that hold the drive on. Clean out the pocket where the shift cable comes out and pack it with OMC triple guard grease to keep out water. The little water passage o ring gasket, will stay in place better if coated with OMC triple guard grease.
To get the drive on without such a struggle:
1) have boat parked on level ground, a dirt surfaces will make it as difficult as you found
2) get an outdrive jack that is height adjustable (I suggest Stumpy's Fab Works), I have one and it works great
3) put grease ONLY on the driveshaft splines (OMC triple guard) NOT on those 2 o rings, that can cause it to be difficult to go on, the o rings get lubed with motor oil ONLY and no grease on the tip of the driveshaft either, that can cause a hydraulic lock in the coupler and the drive will not slide on
4) get the pivot housing and drive at the same height (why the outdrive jack helps so much) and both lined up straight with each other
5) Before installing the drive slide in your alignment tool and when its all the way in, tap it on top, bottom, and on each side, this aligns the bearing straight
6) slide the driveshaft in carefully, try to keep it straight.
7) when its almost all the way on, take a thin long screwdriver and slide it through the u joint cross. Then use this to turn the driveshaft slightly to make the splines line up. Of course start with the outdrive itself in the neutral gear position.
Additional tools/supplies needed:
outdrive jack, long thin screwdriver, OMC gasket sealer, OMC triple guard grease patience, strong back
Thanks for lots of great info! I am sure this will come in handy for several of my viewers/subscribers. Did you subscribe yet?
After all this, I ended up having to remove the outdrive again due to the gearshift cable being stuck. When I went to put it back in, I had to use a jack to lift the trailer up, in order to allow the outdrive to be straight down.
It can be a real pain. The cable when disconnected at both ends should have no more than 2.5 lbs of drag measured with a fish scale, but this should be done only if you want to go through all the adjustments.
When I am reinstalling the drive, I have someone work the shift control so I can see the bellcrank and the shift cable guide moving freely back and forth. If water gets into the little pocket behind the bellcrank it will leave deposits that will cause it to work stiffly. So have someone shift it with the drive off so that the cable guide is extended all the way back and clean it out. Then lube the shaft for the bell crank with motor oil and pack the whole recess with OMC triple guard grease (Evinrude blue snot we call it). Then coat that gasket really well on both sides with gasket sealer and also put gasket sealer on the mating surfaces of the pivot housing and the upper gear housing. This will really keep water out of the bell crank area, and shifting will not get stiff over the course of the season.
Thanks again Luigi!
CHEF!
Cool video!
Thank you Mr Cohen! Did you subscribe yet?
I'm gonna!
Coffee first!
@@81randallchadcohen LOL! Priorities!
I have the same tool. I bought it off Ebay. It works fine for removing the gimball bearing, but it is poorly machined. I had to really pound the gimball installing part with a heavy hammer to get it on the shaft.
I know! Right?
Did you subscribe yet?
Hello sir, how Can i reach You by an email ?? thanks
chefgeir@culinary-yours.com
chefgeir got it
Hahaha nice job and dollars saved as well 👌👏👏👏🇦🇺
Thanks! Did you subscribe yet?
@@chefgeir subscribed 👌
@@garyborchert61 Excellent! Something will soon appear!
Hate to say it but you put the bearing in backwards. The 2 cut outs in the outer ring around the bearing are supposed to go in facing the engine, not the drive.
Thanks for your comment, but nope! Look at ua-cam.com/video/jD-0-re9lEQ/v-deo.html (18:04) and you can see the grove in the bearing (which is necessary to face the outdrive, and NOT the engine for when it needs to be pulled again).
I think you are right about the bearing installed backwards mark!!! 😟😞
@@montezwright1771 Nope again! Just use common sense. It is going to go in so when you need to pull it out again, you pull the WHOLE bearing assembly out, not just the center core! Use Logic!
Chef is correct. Those open slots go towards the Stern drive.
u done well thks;
Thank you sir!
I use a stilson wrench, more leverage.
Thanks for your input!
I wish you could mute the music so I could hear you
Sorry about that. Try with head phones on as frequency is heard different.
You had your pliers on backwards but your biggest problem was, you wasn't long enough. You had no leverage. A long pipe wrench would've been better or a big crescent.
Thanks for your input Aaron!
Installing the outdrive.. make sure the drive is in forward gear..and you can turn the prop with your hand as you push the unit forward..it helps if everything has been aligned with the tool first into the back of the motor crank.. that's why you have the engine installed first.. when you installed the engine with the drive installed it was a bitch. Aligning the coupler over the drive shaft wasn't it??
There's an order of assembly that you didn't follow..but I admire your moxie..
Latest obstacle is that when I was working on reinstalling all cables and hoses, I realized the gear shift cable was stuck. Thus, I had to remove the outdrive again. It is out now, and the shift cable is freed, but now I have to get it all back together again. It would have been a little easier in a shop..............with a second person to help, but that is not an option.
David Jessee, it appears that you have some experience with this. I have a question I hope you can help me with (or anybody else with experience with this) . I removed the outdrive again after I realized the gear shifter was stuck. The cable is fine and moves freely now, but I checked the receiving end of the gear shifter on the outdrive and IT is not moving. It is on the ground, away from the boat, nothing hooked up to it, it's in gear (axle turns when I turn the propeller) and I can NOT move the shifter up nor down (cant put in neutral or opposite gear) with my hand. Why? Why can't I? What can possibly prevent it from moving? The fact that it will not budge, may be the reason why it was so difficult to get the outdrive on last time.
but either way, I need to find out how to make the shifter come loose again. Any suggestions?
chefgeir have u have the lower unit off the drive? As mabe to replace the water pump impeller? If yes. Then you probably didn't line up the splines correct.. if you take off the lower you need to make the shift shaft is in forward..and the thrift lever of the upper is in forward..
If you haven't split the upper from the lower ,and it worked fine before. Then your guess is good as mine.. check gearlube,. Water?
With out getting to drastic try a little pressure on the shifter as you turn the shaft or prop..
No. Did not separate. As opposed to Mercruiser, it is not necessary to do that to replace the impeller on OMC. (probably the best thng about OMC).
Music is too loud, can't hear what you're saying.
Noted! Thank you for your feedback. It's helpful for future projects. Unfortunately, I can't change this one though.
You Will Be My Boat Mechanic When I Get Mine...But Really I Rather Have A Good Friend W A Boat...It's Cheaper>>>LOL
Thanks! lol!
Cringe!! The installer is also your alignment tool.. you're engine should be installed first, then your gimble bearing . Then your outdrive... It's like putting the cart in front of the horse..
Life is a journey,...........full of obstacles. That's how we get better and stronger. Right? ; )
I don't understand why you need an alignment tool? The position on the bearing is fixed once installed correctly correct? So I assume it's the engine side that has to align with the bearing bore. If so, what prevents the engine from simply moving out of allignment again once the allignment tool is removed? Why won't it simply allign when the spindle is installed without the allignment tool? Also, I don't understand why anyone would do this job and also not replace the bellows at the same time?
David Sine good point.. you're right. It is the engine that needs alignment check.
You apply a thin layer of grease to the tool then slide it into the engine coupler,,
What your looking it for is for the tool to slide into the engine smoothly with no hanging.
Pull out the tool and look at the grease that you layered on previously..
it should have groove marks spread evenly around the tool. If it's had the grease rubbed off from the top top then the front of the engine is too low, and if it's too high the grease will be rubbed off the bottom of the tool,, and if it's out of alignment too bad the tool might not slide in the motor all together..hope this helps
🤙🤙
Thanks Chris! Don't forget to subscribe
it was necessary to hammer :))
Yes. It was! ; )
Get a bigger hammer is ALWAYS the right solution !
Lol!
Thanks for watching!
You subscribed. Right?
cool
Thank you!
Nice hammer jajajaja
Don't forget to subscribe!