Just use what 90% of repair shops use: Sil-Glyde. Clean and lube caliper pins, clean caliper bracket insets of all rust, thin grease inset areas and install new hardware, use very small amount and in thin layer on top of clips where pad ears meet clips (don't apply to pad ears themselves), use on back of pads where piston and ears meet pads. Use Sil-Glyde for all. You'll never have a problem.
Wondering if you put too much grease on the shim on the calper side would it work its way inbetween the piston and seal. I have seen some videos where they brush on a huge amount. Not sure why.
Some slide pins have the rubber bushing on the end that swells up if a non silicone lube is used. If the slide pins don’t have the rubber bushing then it is ok to use CRC on them
I'm trying to replace a rubber boot on the caliper cylinder (Raybestos WK 1770 Deal and Boot Kit), but not sure which way it is going on the cylinder. Pls could you advise? From one side you can see 4 circles (I think that one should be on the top of the cylinder), from another just 2 and some words are printed on the surface there.
@@x-man5056 Brake fluid is a short term fix. The reason brake fluid is a bad idea is because when you push the piston back, the excess fluid gets captured on the front side of the piston as it's 'wiped' off when you insert the piston. That extra fluid stays captured behind the dust shield and then eats away at both the rubber dust shield and aluminum caliper. Inside the caliper it will also evaporate and dry the seal if you're not installing the caliper immediately (I.E. remanufactures with parts sitting on shelves for a year). You cannot use any grease or oil because you don't want to swell the seal over time and seize the piston, nor do you want something incompatible with DOT fluid. The correct thing to use is a lithium soap based assembly grease, specifically for this application. Toyota has one called rubber grease (made by Nippon), and there are others such as Niglube RM (also made by Nippon). The VAG family also has their own, which is rebadged Febi assembly grease. BMW also have their own, which is just rebadged ATE cylinder assembly grease. GM/Delco have their own, but it's unavailable in bulk and only seems to come with certain rebuild kits. Raybestos and Centric make an "assembly fluid" for piston seals, but they do not clarify what's actually in it.
@@cup_and_cone I've never rebuilt a caliper to have it set on a shelf but I've always put just enough brake fluid on the square O-ring and piston to ease installation. Brake fluid does not harm the rubber on the dust seal but you shouldn't have gobs of it left on there anyway. Wipe off excess. I have used Lithium marine grease on the slide pins with great results in the past but the silicone brake grease works very well also. It's always best to use what the manufacturer recommends except when they are just trying to rip you off. if you can't get it at NAPA, you don't really need it or there are substitutes they don't tell you about because they want to sell you their own over rated and over priced stuff. The only lube certain to be compatible with DOT3 brake fluid is DOT3 brake fluid. But by all means, seek the Lithium Soap if you feel uncertain. Prepare for sticker shock. They don't want you working on your own car to begin with.
That's right! The main reason to lube these parts is not for lubrication so much as to prevent corrosion! By adding grease to this area, you are blocking water from penetrating and causing rust. Excess should be wiped off.
Many Si lubricants are not good for rubber parts. Additives cause swelling and degradation. Also around piston seals they can contaminate the hydraulic fluid. Use the manufacturer recommended material compatible lubricants.
It’s real simple. Use synthetic lubricant on all metal to metal contact points. Any basic one will do (I use CRC black). You can also use this for the pins if they don’t have a rubber boot on the actual pin (like Hondas). For those pins w the rubber boot you can use Napa Sylglide which is a silicon paste. It will not swell the rubber boot on the pin. Done and done.
The green Permatex is horrible too. It swelled the rubber sleeves that the pin rides in and seized the caliper. I don't trust Permatex anymore after this fiasco on my vehicle. Stay with the Raybestos silicone.
Peter Covell this stuff is awesome. American Grease Stick Co. Sil-Glyde Silicone Lubricant, The shop I work at supplies the purple stuff I buy this one out of my own pocket. I cringe when see them using it because I know cars are coming back with seized caliper pins.
@@KobaBlack113 how about replacing caliper pins with every brake job? They only cost a few dollars. More cost effective if you do the job yourself. Calculate how much money you spend on stuff you don't need like cigarettes ,booze, etc.... how often you replace brake pads? I replace all hardware associated with the job if I'm doing it myself because it's less expensive and just makes sense
When I see the blue lab coat I'm sold.
Came here looking for a simple answer and left feeling like a scholar. Very straight and to the point with great information! Thanks!
Does the OEM's lubricate all the brake parts (excluding calliper pins) Thanks
I thought metal to metal contacts need copper anti-seize and the silicone lubricant is only for the sliding pin. Which is correct?
Yea i watch ChrisFix also 🙂
Never use silicone on metal to metal surfaces it can seize up and you will never be able to remove it once it's contaminated the metal.
Yes, what’s wrong with copper anti seize? The one that the video forbid is the aluminum anti seize
The Big Dog Neighborhood :
www.stopbrakenoise.com
"PasteLub" - Up to 2,400 Degrees Fahrenheit
"CeramLub" - Up to 2,800 degrees Fahrenheit
@@icsp2 silicone doesn't seize.
Just use what 90% of repair shops use: Sil-Glyde. Clean and lube caliper pins, clean caliper bracket insets of all rust, thin grease inset areas and install new hardware, use very small amount and in thin layer on top of clips where pad ears meet clips (don't apply to pad ears themselves), use on back of pads where piston and ears meet pads. Use Sil-Glyde for all. You'll never have a problem.
very educative. thank you regards,
Wondering if you put too much grease on the shim on the calper side would it work its way inbetween the piston and seal. I have seen some videos where they brush on a huge amount. Not sure why.
I use CRC black synthetic on everything including the pins. No issues.
Some slide pins have the rubber bushing on the end that swells up if a non silicone lube is used. If the slide pins don’t have the rubber bushing then it is ok to use CRC on them
@@swaggerjacker1482
Correct. For pins w rubber boots I use Napa Sil Glide. Amazing stuff! Doesnt swell the rubber.
@@DonBMWyes sir. I was using 3M silicone paste but ran out. Figured I would try the Raybestos lube. I have the CRC synthetic for everywhere else
THANKS A LOT
GOOD INFO
I'm trying to replace a rubber boot on the caliper cylinder (Raybestos WK 1770 Deal and Boot Kit), but not sure which way it is going on the cylinder. Pls could you advise? From one side you can see 4 circles (I think that one should be on the top of the cylinder), from another just 2 and some words are printed on the surface there.
Thank you for posting this video, very helpful.
The purple one is not silicone based.
Is copper based lubricant good? If i dont have silicone based?
No, silicone based lubricant is critical to maintain the rubber boots on the sliding pins.
What should I use on the square piston seal when rebuilding calipers?
Brake fluid.
@@x-man5056 Brake fluid is a short term fix. The reason brake fluid is a bad idea is because when you push the piston back, the excess fluid gets captured on the front side of the piston as it's 'wiped' off when you insert the piston. That extra fluid stays captured behind the dust shield and then eats away at both the rubber dust shield and aluminum caliper. Inside the caliper it will also evaporate and dry the seal if you're not installing the caliper immediately (I.E. remanufactures with parts sitting on shelves for a year). You cannot use any grease or oil because you don't want to swell the seal over time and seize the piston, nor do you want something incompatible with DOT fluid. The correct thing to use is a lithium soap based assembly grease, specifically for this application. Toyota has one called rubber grease (made by Nippon), and there are others such as Niglube RM (also made by Nippon). The VAG family also has their own, which is rebadged Febi assembly grease. BMW also have their own, which is just rebadged ATE cylinder assembly grease. GM/Delco have their own, but it's unavailable in bulk and only seems to come with certain rebuild kits. Raybestos and Centric make an "assembly fluid" for piston seals, but they do not clarify what's actually in it.
@@cup_and_cone I've never rebuilt a caliper to have it set on a shelf but I've always put just enough brake fluid on the square O-ring and piston to ease installation. Brake fluid does not harm the rubber on the dust seal but you shouldn't have gobs of it left on there anyway. Wipe off excess.
I have used Lithium marine grease on the slide pins with great results in the past but the silicone brake grease works very well also.
It's always best to use what the manufacturer recommends except when they are just trying to rip you off. if you can't get it at NAPA, you don't really need it or there are substitutes they don't tell you about because they want to sell you their own over rated and over priced stuff.
The only lube certain to be compatible with DOT3 brake fluid is DOT3 brake fluid.
But by all means, seek the Lithium Soap if you feel uncertain. Prepare for sticker shock. They don't want you working on your own car to begin with.
That's right! The main reason to lube these parts is not for lubrication so much as to prevent corrosion! By adding grease to this area, you are blocking water from penetrating and causing rust. Excess should be wiped off.
The brake fluid used in the system will work.
Many Si lubricants are not good for rubber parts. Additives cause swelling and degradation. Also around piston seals they can contaminate the hydraulic fluid. Use the manufacturer recommended material compatible lubricants.
It’s real simple. Use synthetic lubricant on all metal to metal contact points. Any basic one will do (I use CRC black). You can also use this for the pins if they don’t have a rubber boot on the actual pin (like Hondas). For those pins w the rubber boot you can use Napa Sylglide which is a silicon paste. It will not swell the rubber boot on the pin. Done and done.
I was taught that if the back of pad has backing shims pre-installed, then you don’t need brake lube on the shims
How about disk brake quite
Silicone based for me.
Dont use synthetic it will swell the rubber
Metel to metal !!!!! I don't think so
That purple stuff is horrible.
The green Permatex is horrible too. It swelled the rubber sleeves that the pin rides in and seized the caliper. I don't trust Permatex anymore after this fiasco on my vehicle. Stay with the Raybestos silicone.
Peter Covell this stuff is awesome. American Grease Stick Co. Sil-Glyde Silicone Lubricant, The shop I work at supplies the purple stuff I buy this one out of my own pocket. I cringe when see them using it because I know cars are coming back with seized caliper pins.
I've had problems with the green Permatex but not the purple.
The purple stuff eats the caliper pins like acid.
@@KobaBlack113 how about replacing caliper pins with every brake job? They only cost a few dollars. More cost effective if you do the job yourself. Calculate how much money you spend on stuff you don't need like cigarettes ,booze, etc.... how often you replace brake pads? I replace all hardware associated with the job if I'm doing it myself because it's less expensive and just makes sense