I love this video: no cold booger sniffing, talking about a dog or kids, swearing, prison/gangstah music, loud/long introductions, some old guy repeating himself, too much talking when they can show (it's a video), no head or shoulder blocking the view, everything out of focus, bad lighting, bad/wrong explanations,... etc. GOD BLESS YOU!
@@joepacheco7979 ? What dont you understand. Santa cant bless him. Harry potter cant bless him. Apollo cant bless him . Thor cant bless him. " God " cant bless him. Capice ?
even though I already do my own brakes, I still picked up a couple of little pointers , good all round no nonsense instructioctional video, no talking, no music , no anecdotes just visual learning!
This is one of the most helpful videos on disc brake caliper servicing-- clear and expertly photographed. And no steps are ignored or overlooked for the sake of convenience. Of all the video tutorials I have, I return to this video most often.
Great camera work here, no stupid music,just clear practical instruction...what more do you need on a relatively simple job like this. Perfect for the inexperienced home mechanic..
The clearest Demo I've ever seen. The camera quality was exceptional. But mainly clear instructions; nothing was missed out and no vague bits! I have just been doing this and un-seized a slider pin. I've made it smooth again and it's moving again. I also cleaned up the rubber boots. When dried I brushed some silicone grease on them inside and out to keep them supple so they should last longer and prevent cracking.
Salve. Ho letto tra i vari commenti chi non approva l'uso del grasso al silicone per le boccole guida della pinza freno. Ragazzi questo video è il più giusto e corretto che ci sia su youtube. Non si usano grassi minerali o grasso al rame per evitare di danneggiare, o meglio rigonfiare, i gommini. Certo una pulita alla pinza ed alla sua staffa non farebbe male come anche lubrificare le guide di scorrimento delle pastiglie con grasso al rame. Ciao a te e complimenti.
OMG, I read most of these comments and smiled ! It's best to install new caliber/s if the vehicle 10 or so years old or they develope problem/s ! And, torque mounting bolts to recommended specs ! No need for lock tight on mounting bolts ! Keep it simple ! Brakes are the most important functional part/s of any vehicle, so don't treat them like replacement of a vehicle's cabin air freshener ! Cheers
I notice some aftermarket caliper bracket mounting bolts come with some thread-locking compound on them. These bolts are arguably the most important safety fasteners on the vehicle. Is there a reason NOT to use LocTite?
Your videos are very good. I like that you don’t talk, makes it very easy to follow along. You have the printed words on the screen. For me it works really well. 🌟
Great video and I have watched about 5 or 6 of them. During th first 3 years of warranty on our 2017 Toyota Highlander, I had followed the recommended maintenance. At approximately 39000 kms I had a service done which included them taking the brakes apart and cleaning and lubing them, and the pads were assessed at 70% remaining. Less than 7,000 kms ( a little over 4500 miles) later it was time for an oil change. I dropped off the vehicle and went for a walk. I got a phone call about 10 minutes later and was told that the brakes were worn to less than 20% because the caliper slider pins had seized. I think the rookie had done the previous service and had probably used the wrong lubricant. I was not impressed especially since the dealership claimed it wasn't covered under warranty but it wasn't the pads being worn out from heavy braking etc. Anyways, I have watched many videos on how to do this service myself. I have changed brake pads several times myself on other vehicles so I know a bit about brakes. 2of the 5 or 6 other videos I've watched have said to NOT get any silicon lube on the end of the pin as this "may" prevent the pin from being able to move all the way into the hole. Not too sure about that but maybe it's something to consider.
While I'm there i also smear the silicon grease on the rubber boot as well to prevent premature ageing. A couple of years back I used copper grease on the slide pin as this grease has a high melting point but found recently it had dried up and was actually causing the guide pin to seize up, leading to uneven brake wear. It was due to an unusually high build up of brake dust on my wheels that made me investigate. You live and learn.
A nice video on basic brake maintenance, I usually do mine twice a year when change the wheels from winter to summer and then back again. I forgot how small some vehicles brakes are, I have eight bolt hubs with twin pot callipers, but they still need TLC.
Fantastic video. Should have had a lot more viewers. I would say, the best one on youtube. I liked that you showed how to put it all back together too.
Great job. I recently learned that putting grease on the end of the slid pin will cause the caliper to fail because it’s at the bottom it restricts it from going all the way in . So I put grease on the end of the pin to try this theory and found it does restrict the pin and doesn’t allow it to go all the way into the bracket.
Don't know about your vehicle, but my 2002 S-10, original equipment brake caliper brackets, I'm assuming they're AC Delco, have small pin holes on the backside of the brackets for air, and grease, if too much is applied, to escape from each of the slide bolt chambers preventing any type of seating problems. The holes are approximately .010 in diameter and are countersunk.
Quiet yet VERY VERY informative. This reminds me of the videos we’d watch in class! The teacher would normally do the talking but you added subtitles. Perfect video! (By The Way I went to Michigan Automotive Academy) well done, well done indeed!!!
Hey, GREAT JOB, but you don't have to take the Caliper frame off of the car to lube the pins. I just removed the Caliper and left the pads in place, pulled the pins, cleaned and lubed them and put them back in. HOWEVER, your video showed me that I have been doing disc brake pad replacement ALL WRONG😂🙂 for years. I have been pulling the bolts that hold the caliper frame to the front axle assembly. That adds a lot of extra weight to the thing and makes it much more difficult to get the new pads into the frame. Your video has now saved me hours of future time and frustration of having to work with the weight of the caliper AND frame in trying to get the pads into the frame with the caliper still mounted to it.. So simple to just pull the bolts that hold the pins in and then just hang the caliper and put the pads into the frame and then slip the caliper back over the new pads. A million thanks from a Guy who calls himself a "Master Mechanic". I can't believe I never figured this out for myself.😂🙂
@@screwsnutsandbolts Thanks. Makes sense, but in doing the whole thing the way you did, you showed me what I have been doing all wrong for many years. I presume you read the whole comment. Your simple video was one of the most helpful automotive videos I have ever watched. I have been doing all of my own automotive work and working on every system in cars since I was 14 and I'm now 75, and had just finished replacing pads and rotor on one wheel when I decided to ask a question I had never thought of before. How to remove and lube caliper pins? Your video came up as the second one recommended. I had never taken them out before. It sure makes a brake job much easier. I will be doing the other wheel according to what I learned from your video. Again, thanks a million times.
I've been just watching random videos. It seems like a lot of cars have this setup with the sealed boot. I have a LNF Cobalt SS and the rear rotors are notorious for being a problem. I live in Canada too so the winters just kill them. I don't even know how much money i've spent on these. Before last winter I noticed the one pin was super seized and I mean very very very seized lol. I tried to take the boots out but couldn't. I had to use a drill and my cutters to get them out. The salt from our roads actually got behind the boot and corroded the caliper so it was squeezing the pin from the outside in!. I had to drill the corrosion away and then greased the hell out of them. I have new calipers since then but even these are starting to look rough and just now my inner pad is complete gone again. I just ordered a new set of rotors and pads. I actually disconnect my e brake as well because that only makes it worse and the pads will chew much faster. GM messed up really bad on these. Anyhoo long story I know but it's been such a nightmare I would kill for a smooth set like the one's in this video lol. Also my fav design was on my LS1 ws6 with the e brake inside the rotors pressing outwards or even my V6 rear drum set. I never had a problem with my Camaro in 8 years of winter driving.
I would add a drop of anti-seize on each bolt before reinstall, also clean up the rotors, brackets and pads since you have them accessible. Good clear video, easy to watch.
@@bmak7874 A small dab of grease on the threads of the caliper mounting bolts should not cause the bolts to come loose and should prevent them from seizing in cold wet conditions. Where I live corrosion is an issue. Never use penetrating oils.
A nice, slow visual description of greasing slide pins … I especially like the sound of your blackbird in the background. Some people will find that one of their slide pins may have an internal rubber sleeve which is supposed to stop vibrations.
Merci pour cette vidéo. elle nous montre Presque parfaitement, la façon de faire, mais pour ma par, il manque un element vraiment important, les gants de protection, contre les produits chimiques. Mais bien sur, dans certain pays défavorisé, ces gants sont surement difficile à ce procurer. Quoi qu'il en soit, votre démonstration de la façon de faire, est parfaite !
A can of spray brake cleaner makes the job 3 times faster and no need to remove the caliper bracket. Just don’t spray the boot with the brake cleaner and let everything dry before applying the grease. Put a thin coat of grease on brake pad shims too. Re-greasing the pins periodically is good maintenance to keep the calipers from sticking/hanging up.
@slow boat I’m saying you don’t have to remove the entire caliper bracket to clean and re-grease the pins. Unscrew and remove the pins, clean them off with brake cleaner, apply new grease and reinstall the pins. There’s no need to get brake cleaner anywhere near the pin boots nor do you want to. At the same time though I’d inspect the pin boots. If they are dry/cracked, replace them. They are relatively inexpensive. Better yet, go the extra mile and buy a caliper rebuild kit. They are inexpensive and plenty of UA-cam videos showing the rebuild process.
Ive used high temp grease for 30 years on pins never had a issue same truck for 10 years no issue never used silicone caliper grease as long as it high temp your good with that makes me wonder if caliper grease is a market scam.
I was hoping to find someone saying this. I just applied the usual high temp black, and also red lithium. These are the scraps I had on hand so I'm using it.
Couple of points: Leaving grease on the tip of the slide pin will lead to uneven pad wear as grease will not compress and a bit of "lock tite" on the bolts since brakes are kind of important. But thanks for taking the time to post.
@@screwsnutsandbolts Yes and no. Rewatched video start to finish. Yes you mention 'lock tite" in your description but you depict a pin with grease on the tip prior to insertion but don't state leaving excess grease on the tip will result in the pin standing off the end of the bore as grease will not compress. Meant to be constructive critisism and again thanks for posting. Only know this as I recently made this mistake.
well... ive always added it, this must be why it take a few pushes in to get it to go all the way in.... ive also added grease to the boot to give it a bit of a reserve... i do this every spring when i pull the winter tires off.... good time to look things over.
@@666dynomaxsame. After winter here in MA I clean and relube slide pins, inspect caliper brackets for any rust under clips but normally not any as I use anti seize or brake grease under clips
@@swaggerjacker1482 i would say im inconsistent on this one... i do the slides lots, but i never feel like that grease sticks for very long on the clips.. i just clean them up a bit... i sometimes even pull rotors at this point and hut the edge with a file, grinder or even a hammer to get that lip off the edge. Coated rotors and drums have made a HUGE difference for me, i won't buy any not coated anymore.
Mostly I just clean and relube slide pins. When I put new pads/rotors on I cleaned the caliper brackets pretty good and put a light coat of copper anti seize on the bracket tabs before I put the clips on. Hoping there will be minimal rust or none under the clips when it is time to do again years down the road.
Excellent video! The text only instructions make you watch. I'm surprised that no one is using carb/choke or brake cleaner on the parts. My slide pins have a metal bushing on the boot that has to be seated on the adapter.
Very good camera-work! For once I could see exactly what was done. I didn't know that you had to hold the Slide Pin while losing the Caliper bolts. No one else has shown that important detail.
Great but maybe 2 points here.. Insterting the grease pin then taking it all out might increase the chance of punching grease all the way in which is not a good idea. I'd put the rubber sleeve on the pin first, then lube the pin, then insert them together just once.
Çok faydalı video olmuş bu sesi nasıl keserim diye düşünüyordum bir kaç yöntem denedim kesin çözüm olmadı azda olsa ses devam etti size çok tsk ederim kesin çözüm yolu 🤗
thank you ...am now a fan ...perfect educational and demonstration video ..good light ...excellent camera angle and close ups .... text allows one to read ....love the use of still shots and video ....love the absence of background noise or music ...subscribers come for education not musical entertainment ..thanks again ..
I am doing this job at the moment whilst changing my discs. I liked the video but will add that I am using blue locktight on all the bolts and also using a torque wrench with the appropriate torque. I am only saying this as although I have never used a torque wrench on wheel nuts in 45 years ( and no wheel has ever come off) , these calliper holder, and calliper pin bolts are a new experience and due to safety I want to get it correct. My Mondeo mk 3 , calliper pins 28nt, calliper holder bolts 120 nt.
Thanks for your comments. I only did a quick version of removing and replacing the caliper and bracket in this video as the focus was on greasing the slide pins. In the video about changing the brake pads I used blue loctite when refitting the bolts. I've only recently obtained a couple of torque wrenches and now I use them for every job, including the wheel bolts :)
Greasing the slider pins is okay but u should also greace the ends of the pads where they meet the bracket because just greasing the pins is not enough they need to slide too.
@@JonaHanz-u2hixhow can the grease migrate to the pads? Unless you use the whole tube on the pin there is no way grease will migrate to the brake pads from the bore and boot of the slide pin. Most people put way to much lube on the slide pins. A light coating is all you need. Unless you mean on the ears (end of the pads) that ride on the clips. Same thing, don’t glob it on there
this was an easy one. I did my neighbor's car yesterday . Several of the pins were locked in place with gunked up grease-two didn't want to come out without lots of effort. As you can imagine, the wear on the pads was mismatched and abnormal.
That is why I like to use a flex bar to loosen them , then use a 1/4" or 3/8" to spin them out. The rubber boot is going to remove most of the grease so I would either squeeze some into there or use a sized screw driver to push some in.
Never, ever leave a glob of grease on the end of the slide pin. It will stop the pin from travelling the full length of the sleeve. Grease does not compress, it becomes an immovable object.
Car issue one of my Best video i have ever seen. Great job. wonderful. You understand the real/actual focus on the job to do. You put the camera in the right spot. This is great. Please give some notes while video making or mention in the description. " brake caliper slide pins" Why it's required? When & how car drivers can understand it's time to lubricate brake caliper slide pins using silicone grease?
Changed my calipers to fixed calipers because of having to go through this with a floating caliper. I love DIY, but some things can make the job easier. Lol
My opinion of HOW TO videos: The less said the better!! Smart man! Most are gibberish. One note; I would never reuse rusted parts; remove or treat rust, paint "ORANGE" LOL
I just had both caliper bolts break off and had to use a saw to cut through one of the pins to remove the caliper and replace the pins. Always make sure to hit all of the bolts with penetrating oil before you start. If you can hit them a day before and let it soak in there just to be safe.
@@BlondieHappyGuy If something will not come free carefully try some heat . In this particular case there are rubber parts and hydraulic fluid ( which is very flammable ) , so , instead of heat , you could try using penetrating fluid repeatably before driving about and applying your bakes to create a bit of vibration and , maybe , a little heat doing so . Fair play to your suggestion about using your torque wrench setting to remove things . That will work great if you were the last person to work on the part being removed .
If they are rust he’ll try this if you’ve got an air compressor and any old pneumatic air chisel. Take the nastiest chisel it has and round it off on a grinder so it doesn’t cut. Put some ATF or penetrant on it . The take the air chisel and pound on the bolt head. Hold it limp because you want all the bounce you can get. Add oil as you bang on it. That will knock th rust out and oil in . I use this where I don’t want to heat up a part for whatever reason and it works just as well as the torch. For monster nuts in the rust belt use both👍🏻
I also did hear knocking but, as I removed wheel and checked brakes connection that wasn't the problem. The wheel was wobbling and further inspection is the wheel bearing is completely damaged. Yea, I bought a complete knuckle hub bearing assembly and going to replace tomorrow, But this video is great review to follow as I am replacing pin Boots also, thanks 👍
Suggest also lubricating the boot, especially where it sits in the groove of the caliper bracket. Prevents water ingress and corrosion. Also proper cleaner solvent and compressed air work wonders to get old grease out.
Excellent video. Gonna replace brake pads myself for the 1st time in my life. (My son's car at 44k km, 1st renewal). I could not find high temp silicone grease in our stupid town, only a tube of Plastilube which I believe is only good for the new pad ears. The pad replacement is urgent. Is it adviseable to rather totally leave the guide pins as is for now, not even removing them, and then when I eventually get hold of the right grease, just do that? Or will the caliper pins also urgently need new grease now? Thanks!
@@screwsnutsandboltsThank you very much! Will do. I've decided to order a product called Spanjaard Silicon Paste, rated for 200⁰ C, seems to be the only thing I can easily get hold of in South Africa without breaking the bank. Then will just check in about a year's time if it's still OK ...
Best video of its kind, no bull, just practical clear step by step guide. Can I ask a question, can a stuck calliper cause the wheels to squeal, in my case when the brakes aren't applied the squealing starts, then goes when you lift off the brakes.
Not necessarily, there are other issues that cause the brakes to squeal: www.powerstop.com/resources/causes-and-solutions-for-squealing-brake-pads/ If the squealing continues or you feel a change in brake performance I would take it to a garage to have it checked out, just to be sure.
Parts and Tools:
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I love this video: no cold booger sniffing, talking about a dog or kids, swearing, prison/gangstah music, loud/long introductions, some old guy repeating himself, too much talking when they can show (it's a video), no head or shoulder blocking the view, everything out of focus, bad lighting, bad/wrong explanations,... etc. GOD BLESS YOU!
Thanks for watching ! :)
good music
God cant bless him , sorry.
@@gertscheper4038 ?
@@joepacheco7979 ?
What dont you understand.
Santa cant bless him.
Harry potter cant bless him.
Apollo cant bless him .
Thor cant bless him.
" God " cant bless him.
Capice ?
I can't thank you enough for the silence! Also, the really patient pace, great lighting, visibility, etc.
Thanks very much ! 👍
I second that. Nice work.
even though I already do my own brakes, I still picked up a couple of little pointers , good all round no nonsense instructioctional video, no talking, no music , no anecdotes just visual learning!
Thanks very much !
Exatilly
This is one of the most helpful videos on disc brake caliper servicing-- clear and expertly photographed.
And no steps are ignored or overlooked for the sake of convenience.
Of all the video tutorials I have, I return to this video most often.
Thank you !
Great camera work here, no stupid music,just clear practical instruction...what more do you need on a relatively simple job like this.
Perfect for the inexperienced home mechanic..
Thank you ! 👍
👍@@screwsnutsandbolts
The clearest Demo I've ever seen. The camera quality was exceptional. But mainly clear instructions; nothing was missed out and no vague bits! I have just been doing this and un-seized a slider pin.
I've made it smooth again and it's moving again.
I also cleaned up the rubber boots. When dried I brushed some silicone grease on them inside and out to keep them supple so they should last longer and prevent cracking.
Thanks for your comments 👍
AMSR sounds of birds and metal parts is soothing to the auto garage junkie
Thanks for watching, and listening 🙂
Been a few years since I last did my brakes. As I don't do it every day, it's nice to review. This video was an excellent review. Thanks!
Thank you very much 👍
I appreciate how your videos aren't about you-----appreciate it.
Thank you ! 👍
Now, that's the way to do a video instruction... Clear step by step...I like it.
Thanks for watching !
Salve. Ho letto tra i vari commenti chi non approva l'uso del grasso al silicone per le boccole guida della pinza freno. Ragazzi questo video è il più giusto e corretto che ci sia su youtube. Non si usano grassi minerali o grasso al rame per evitare di danneggiare, o meglio rigonfiare, i gommini.
Certo una pulita alla pinza ed alla sua staffa non farebbe male come anche lubrificare le guide di scorrimento delle pastiglie con grasso al rame.
Ciao a te e complimenti.
OMG, I read most of these comments and smiled ! It's best to install new caliber/s if the vehicle 10 or so years old or they develope problem/s ! And, torque mounting bolts to recommended specs ! No need for lock tight on mounting bolts ! Keep it simple ! Brakes are the most important functional part/s of any vehicle, so don't treat them like replacement of a vehicle's cabin air freshener ! Cheers
I notice some aftermarket caliper bracket mounting bolts come with some thread-locking compound on them. These bolts are arguably the most important safety fasteners on the vehicle. Is there a reason NOT to use LocTite?
The angles shown with the lighting was perfect. Beautifully shown with the subtitles. Thank you.
You're welcome 😊
Great video one of the biggest causes of premature pad failure and yet few videos show this step.
Thank you !
You did lot of work in silence and guided us in detail. Masha Allah. more than excellent and outstanding tutorial. Thanks.
Thank you very much !
The best demonstration and teaching videos ever made....Thanks
Thank you very much ! 👍
The camera angle is perfect and the patient approach to detail awesome
Thank you ! 👍
@@screwsnutsandbolts YW
You taught me what I was looking for, you are professional,thank you
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Your videos are very good. I like that you don’t talk, makes it very easy to follow along. You have the printed words on the screen. For me it works really well. 🌟
Thank you !
Thanks!
Thank you very much !. I really appreciate your support ! 👍👍
Great video and I have watched about 5 or 6 of them. During th first 3 years of warranty on our 2017 Toyota Highlander, I had followed the recommended maintenance. At approximately 39000 kms I had a service done which included them taking the brakes apart and cleaning and lubing them, and the pads were assessed at 70% remaining. Less than 7,000 kms ( a little over 4500 miles) later it was time for an oil change. I dropped off the vehicle and went for a walk. I got a phone call about 10 minutes later and was told that the brakes were worn to less than 20% because the caliper slider pins had seized. I think the rookie had done the previous service and had probably used the wrong lubricant. I was not impressed especially since the dealership claimed it wasn't covered under warranty but it wasn't the pads being worn out from heavy braking etc. Anyways, I have watched many videos on how to do this service myself. I have changed brake pads several times myself on other vehicles so I know a bit about brakes. 2of the 5 or 6 other videos I've watched have said to NOT get any silicon lube on the end of the pin as this "may" prevent the pin from being able to move all the way into the hole. Not too sure about that but maybe it's something to consider.
The pin has a flat side specifically to prevent that from happening
While I'm there i also smear the silicon grease on the rubber boot as well to prevent premature ageing. A couple of years back I used copper grease on the slide pin as this grease has a high melting point but found recently it had dried up and was actually causing the guide pin to seize up, leading to uneven brake wear. It was due to an unusually high build up of brake dust on my wheels that made me investigate. You live and learn.
You do indeed. Good idea with the silicone grease.
Not only that regular brake high temp grease causes the dust boot to deteriorate as it is petroleum based unlike silicone grease
used copper grease for years with no problems madern mechanichs dont like copper grease cos it gets there hands dirty!
Yes. Any grease with solid minerals including Moly must be avoided.
Thanks for this. I need to do my offside caliper and was going to use copper grease.
A nice video on basic brake maintenance, I usually do mine twice a year when change the wheels from winter to summer and then back again.
I forgot how small some vehicles brakes are, I have eight bolt hubs with twin pot callipers, but they still need TLC.
VERY NICELY DONE. I dropped by to refresh my memory about the part names. I like what I'm seeing, have subbed. THANKS!
Fantastic video. Should have had a lot more viewers. I would say, the best one on youtube. I liked that you showed how to put it all back together too.
Thank you !
Great job. I recently learned that putting grease on the end of the slid pin will cause the caliper to fail because it’s at the bottom it restricts it from going all the way in . So I put grease on the end of the pin to try this theory and found it does restrict the pin and doesn’t allow it to go all the way into the bracket.
Don't know about your vehicle, but my 2002 S-10, original equipment brake caliper brackets, I'm assuming they're AC Delco, have small pin holes on the backside of the brackets for air, and grease, if too much is applied, to escape from each of the slide bolt chambers preventing any type of seating problems. The holes are approximately .010 in diameter and are countersunk.
Very nice video with all information, camera angles and clarity on point!!!
Thank you !
Quiet yet VERY VERY informative. This reminds me of the videos we’d watch in class! The teacher would normally do the talking but you added subtitles. Perfect video! (By The Way I went to Michigan Automotive Academy) well done, well done indeed!!!
Thanks very much ! 👍
mVç
Hey, GREAT JOB, but you don't have to take the Caliper frame off of the car to lube the pins. I just removed the Caliper and left the pads in place, pulled the pins, cleaned and lubed them and put them back in. HOWEVER, your video showed me that I have been doing disc brake pad replacement ALL WRONG😂🙂 for years. I have been pulling the bolts that hold the caliper frame to the front axle assembly. That adds a lot of extra weight to the thing and makes it much more difficult to get the new pads into the frame. Your video has now saved me hours of future time and frustration of having to work with the weight of the caliper AND frame in trying to get the pads into the frame with the caliper still mounted to it.. So simple to just pull the bolts that hold the pins in and then just hang the caliper and put the pads into the frame and then slip the caliper back over the new pads. A million thanks from a Guy who calls himself a "Master Mechanic". I can't believe I never figured this out for myself.😂🙂
Thanks for watching !. I only took the bracket off to make it easier to demonstrate the process on camera with better light 👍
@@screwsnutsandbolts Thanks. Makes sense, but in doing the whole thing the way you did, you showed me what I have been doing all wrong for many years. I presume you read the whole comment. Your simple video was one of the most helpful automotive videos I have ever watched. I have been doing all of my own automotive work and working on every system in cars since I was 14 and I'm now 75, and had just finished replacing pads and rotor on one wheel when I decided to ask a question I had never thought of before. How to remove and lube caliper pins? Your video came up as the second one recommended. I had never taken them out before. It sure makes a brake job much easier. I will be doing the other wheel according to what I learned from your video. Again, thanks a million times.
Fantastic video, made even better by the peaceful background sound of birds!
Thanks for watching !
Very educational and relaxing, thank you a million
Thanks for watching ! :)
The best and meticulous way to do the job! Kudos--others are so sloppy in comparison.
Thank you ! 👍
@@screwsnutsandbolts What did you use to press the piston back in place?
@@tropicalstorm339 I used a special tool but if you don't have one you can use this method: ua-cam.com/video/E6iso9mVi8g/v-deo.html
@@screwsnutsandbolts Thank you. That was a great tip.
@@tropicalstorm339 You're welcome, thanks for watching !
I've been just watching random videos. It seems like a lot of cars have this setup with the sealed boot. I have a LNF Cobalt SS and the rear rotors are notorious for being a problem. I live in Canada too so the winters just kill them. I don't even know how much money i've spent on these. Before last winter I noticed the one pin was super seized and I mean very very very seized lol. I tried to take the boots out but couldn't. I had to use a drill and my cutters to get them out. The salt from our roads actually got behind the boot and corroded the caliper so it was squeezing the pin from the outside in!. I had to drill the corrosion away and then greased the hell out of them. I have new calipers since then but even these are starting to look rough and just now my inner pad is complete gone again. I just ordered a new set of rotors and pads. I actually disconnect my e brake as well because that only makes it worse and the pads will chew much faster. GM messed up really bad on these. Anyhoo long story I know but it's been such a nightmare I would kill for a smooth set like the one's in this video lol. Also my fav design was on my LS1 ws6 with the e brake inside the rotors pressing outwards or even my V6 rear drum set. I never had a problem with my Camaro in 8 years of winter driving.
I would add a drop of anti-seize on each bolt before reinstall, also clean up the rotors, brackets and pads since you have them accessible. Good clear video, easy to watch.
No, no, do not ever put anti seize on any brake bolts. Never.
@@bmak7874 A small dab of grease on the threads of the caliper mounting bolts should not cause the bolts to come loose and should prevent them from seizing in cold wet conditions. Where I live corrosion is an issue. Never use penetrating oils.
@@johnh7058 I learned to never put anything on caliper bolts. Some people may. I just wouldn’t recommend it.
@@bmak7874 only Blue Loctite thread locker.
The comments about no lube follow manufacturers direction
Excelent vídeo, no unnecessary and confusing narrator, very didactic.
Thanks for watching !
A nice, slow visual description of greasing slide pins … I especially like the sound of your blackbird in the background. Some people will find that one of their slide pins may have an internal rubber sleeve which is supposed to stop vibrations.
Thanks for watching ! 👍
I always wondered why only one had rubber on it
Merci pour cette vidéo. elle nous montre Presque parfaitement, la façon de faire, mais pour ma par, il manque un element vraiment important, les gants de protection, contre les produits chimiques. Mais bien sur, dans certain pays défavorisé, ces gants sont surement difficile à ce procurer.
Quoi qu'il en soit, votre démonstration de la façon de faire, est parfaite !
A can of spray brake cleaner makes the job 3 times faster and no need to remove the caliper bracket. Just don’t spray the boot with the brake cleaner and let everything dry before applying the grease. Put a thin coat of grease on brake pad shims too. Re-greasing the pins periodically is good maintenance to keep the calipers from sticking/hanging up.
Brake cleaner can damage paint and rubber parts
Coat the boot with rubber grease.
@slow boat I’m saying you don’t have to remove the entire caliper bracket to clean and re-grease the pins. Unscrew and remove the pins, clean them off with brake cleaner, apply new grease and reinstall the pins. There’s no need to get brake cleaner anywhere near the pin boots nor do you want to. At the same time though I’d inspect the pin boots. If they are dry/cracked, replace them. They are relatively inexpensive. Better yet, go the extra mile and buy a caliper rebuild kit. They are inexpensive and plenty of UA-cam videos showing the rebuild process.
Make a video
Exactly!!!👍👍👍👍
The birds singing was the best soundtrack.
Ive used high temp grease for 30 years on pins never had a issue same truck for 10 years no issue never used silicone caliper grease as long as it high temp your good with that makes me wonder if caliper grease is a market scam.
I was hoping to find someone saying this. I just applied the usual high temp black, and also red lithium. These are the scraps I had on hand so I'm using it.
Couple of points: Leaving grease on the tip of the slide pin will lead to uneven pad wear as grease will not compress and a bit of "lock tite" on the bolts since brakes are kind of important. But thanks for taking the time to post.
You're welcome, I explained that in the video description
@@screwsnutsandbolts Yes and no. Rewatched video start to finish. Yes you mention 'lock tite" in your description but you depict a pin with grease on the tip prior to insertion but don't state leaving excess grease on the tip will result in the pin standing off the end of the bore as grease will not compress. Meant to be constructive critisism and again thanks for posting. Only know this as I recently made this mistake.
Just be sure to NOT add the grease to the tip of the slide bolts.It can compact and decrease optimal operation.
Really good point. Thank you!
well... ive always added it, this must be why it take a few pushes in to get it to go all the way in.... ive also added grease to the boot to give it a bit of a reserve... i do this every spring when i pull the winter tires off.... good time to look things over.
@@666dynomaxsame. After winter here in MA I clean and relube slide pins, inspect caliper brackets for any rust under clips but normally not any as I use anti seize or brake grease under clips
@@swaggerjacker1482 i would say im inconsistent on this one... i do the slides lots, but i never feel like that grease sticks for very long on the clips.. i just clean them up a bit... i sometimes even pull rotors at this point and hut the edge with a file, grinder or even a hammer to get that lip off the edge. Coated rotors and drums have made a HUGE difference for me, i won't buy any not coated anymore.
Mostly I just clean and relube slide pins. When I put new pads/rotors on I cleaned the caliper brackets pretty good and put a light coat of copper anti seize on the bracket tabs before I put the clips on. Hoping there will be minimal rust or none under the clips when it is time to do again years down the road.
Profe, de verdad, una explicación tan sencilla y tan efectiva que elimina la complejidad aparente. Muchas gracias
Thank you for watching :)
¡entendido! amigo
Excellent video! The text only instructions make you watch. I'm surprised that no one is using carb/choke or brake cleaner on the parts. My slide pins have a metal bushing on the boot that has to be seated on the adapter.
Thank you!
Very good camera-work!
For once I could see exactly what was done.
I didn't know that you had to hold the Slide Pin while losing the Caliper bolts. No one else has shown that important detail.
Thank you !
Good clear demonstration, only comment I always use lock tight on brake parts.
Thanks, I explained all that in the video description.
Great but maybe 2 points here..
Insterting the grease pin then taking it all out might increase the chance of punching grease all the way in which is not a good idea. I'd put the rubber sleeve on the pin first, then lube the pin, then insert them together just once.
Çok faydalı video olmuş bu sesi nasıl keserim diye düşünüyordum bir kaç yöntem denedim kesin çözüm olmadı azda olsa ses devam etti size çok tsk ederim kesin çözüm yolu 🤗
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Excellent information, Thank you, is a nice way to show how to do the things!!!
Thanks for watching !
Well presented showing all the details in a clear and easy to follow manner. Well Done!!!
Thank you !
thank you ...am now a fan ...perfect educational and demonstration video ..good light ...excellent camera angle and close ups .... text allows one to read ....love the use of still shots and video ....love the absence of background noise or music ...subscribers come for education not musical entertainment ..thanks again ..
Thank you very much ! :)
I am doing this job at the moment whilst changing my discs.
I liked the video but will add that I am using blue locktight on all the bolts and also using a torque wrench with the appropriate torque.
I am only saying this as although I have never used a torque wrench on wheel nuts in 45 years ( and no wheel has ever come off) , these calliper holder, and calliper pin bolts are a new experience and due to safety I want to get it correct. My Mondeo mk 3 , calliper pins 28nt, calliper holder bolts 120 nt.
Thanks for your comments. I only did a quick version of removing and replacing the caliper and bracket in this video as the focus was on greasing the slide pins. In the video about changing the brake pads I used blue loctite when refitting the bolts. I've only recently obtained a couple of torque wrenches and now I use them for every job, including the wheel bolts :)
Greasing the slider pins is okay but u should also greace the ends of the pads where they meet the bracket because just greasing the pins is not enough they need to slide too.
You must avoid putting silicone grease on the pins because these can migrate to the brake pads and make them slippery.
I’ve never put anything on pad ears and never had a problem. Some people say it attracts dirt and dust that sticks to the grease.
@@JonaHanz-u2hixhow can the grease migrate to the pads? Unless you use the whole tube on the pin there is no way grease will migrate to the brake pads from the bore and boot of the slide pin.
Most people put way to much lube on the slide pins. A light coating is all you need.
Unless you mean on the ears (end of the pads) that ride on the clips. Same thing, don’t glob it on there
@@swaggerjacker1482 Sorry, my mistake, I mean to say the ends of the pads, not the pins.
@@JonaHanz-u2hixgot you. I kind of figured that’s what you meant. I don’t put lube on pad ears. I know a lot of people do though ….
this was an easy one. I did my neighbor's car yesterday . Several of the pins were locked in place with gunked up grease-two didn't want to come out without lots of effort. As you can imagine, the wear on the pads was mismatched and abnormal.
I run into this problem all year long . Sometimes there like welded in the bracket . Use wire brush with brake clean . Clean & lube !
copper grease will always undo
Se ve que siempre dejamos lo esencial para después hoy estuve haciendo eso
Great video. 1M views. Wow. Good for you. Definitely giving me the confidence to tackle this job. Thank you.
Thanks very much ! 👍
That is why I like to use a flex bar to loosen them , then use a 1/4" or 3/8" to spin them out.
The rubber boot is going to remove most of the grease so I would either squeeze some into there or use a sized screw driver to push some in.
Nice, informative video. I did have to bump the playback speed up to 1.5x, but that's because I was in a hurry.
lol Thanks for watching :)
Great video, simple well instructed.👍👍
Thank you :)
Thank you for showing the boot removal. I was wondering if I could do so without damaging it.
Thanks for watching !
Very Good, thanks very much, useful video🙏
Thanks for watching !
This is a really great video. A job for the weekend on my Volvo V70
Thanks for watching !
Exelente video gracias por la explicacion voy a intentarlo saludos de Mexico
Thank you for watching !
Thanks man i dont know much about brake and it help me a lot to visualize its well filmed
Thanks for watching !
Never, ever leave a glob of grease on the end of the slide pin. It will stop the pin from travelling the full length of the sleeve. Grease does not compress, it becomes an immovable object.
Car issue one of my Best video i have ever seen. Great job. wonderful. You understand the real/actual focus on the job to do. You put the camera in the right spot. This is great.
Please give some notes while video making or mention in the description.
" brake caliper slide pins"
Why it's required?
When & how car drivers can understand it's time to lubricate brake caliper slide pins using silicone grease?
Excellent bro nice vlog . It's very different. Good job. Keep it up liked from India.
Thank you !
Thanks for the video, very clear 😊
You're welcome !
Thank you so much its very clear and detailed
Thank you ! 👍
Konuşmadan okadar güzel anlattıki helal olsun
Thank you !
gracias por compartir sus conocimientos felicidades muy bien explicados 🍀👍
Thank you !
Never ever put grease on the tip of the pin. It not compressfully and will create an sir pocket.
💯 agreed
I can watch the video and play some really good Big Band music at the same time.
Changed my calipers to fixed calipers because of having to go through this with a floating caliper. I love DIY, but some things can make the job easier. Lol
lol 😄
@@screwsnutsandbolts So much easier just popping clips off 🤣
Why take off the caliber when you can grease the pins without taking off the caliber?
Did you read the video description ?
My opinion of HOW TO videos: The less said the better!! Smart man! Most are gibberish. One note; I would never reuse rusted parts; remove or treat rust, paint "ORANGE" LOL
Thanks for the comments 👍
You’d love mine then… loads of gibberish, and you’re likely to know less about what you’re trying to achieve after watching them, than you did before.
Good very good my friend..congratuleychion
Thank you !
Perfect demonstration. Thanks
You're very welcome, thanks for watching !
Another great video . Just in time for me ,I will be doing this job shortly. Always enjoy your channel.
Thank you very much ! :)
Excellent how to. THANKS
Thanks for watching !
I just had both caliper bolts break off and had to use a saw to cut through one of the pins to remove the caliper and replace the pins. Always make sure to hit all of the bolts with penetrating oil before you start. If you can hit them a day before and let it soak in there just to be safe.
Good tip, thanks
@@BlondieHappyGuy If something will not come free carefully try some heat . In this particular case there are rubber parts and hydraulic fluid ( which is very flammable ) , so , instead of heat , you could try using penetrating fluid repeatably before driving about and applying your bakes to create a bit of vibration and , maybe , a little heat doing so .
Fair play to your suggestion about using your torque wrench setting to remove things . That will work great if you were the last person to work on the part being removed .
If they are rust he’ll try this if you’ve got an air compressor and any old pneumatic air chisel. Take the nastiest chisel it has and round it off on a grinder so it doesn’t cut. Put some ATF or penetrant on it . The take the air chisel and pound on the bolt head. Hold it limp because you want all the bounce you can get. Add oil as you bang on it. That will knock th rust out and oil in . I use this where I don’t want to heat up a part for whatever reason and it works just as well as the torch. For monster nuts in the rust belt use both👍🏻
C'est bien présenté. Très professionnel. MERCI BEAUCOUP
Thank you !
Ive done mine before watching this, I have knocking come from brake when driving. I presume I haven't locked pins in correctly
Sounds like the caliper isn't secured properly. I'd have those brakes checked as soon as possible !
I also did hear knocking but, as I removed wheel and checked brakes connection that wasn't the problem. The wheel was wobbling and further inspection is the wheel bearing is completely damaged. Yea, I bought a complete knuckle hub bearing assembly and going to replace tomorrow, But this video is great review to follow as I am replacing pin Boots also, thanks 👍
@@sammyhooligan803 You're welcome, thanks for watching !
premium grease
Nicely done, subscribed
Thank you ! 👍
Suggest also lubricating the boot, especially where it sits in the groove of the caliper bracket. Prevents water ingress and corrosion.
Also proper cleaner solvent and compressed air work wonders to get old grease out.
❤❤❤Thank you so much Bro to make us learned ❤❤❤
You're welcome !
Man of few words! I like it!
Thanks 👍
very clear to understand. thank you 😊
You're welcome !
Bolero me drum brake ki jagah disk brake laga sakte hai?
Excellent video.
Gonna replace brake pads myself for the 1st time in my life. (My son's car at 44k km, 1st renewal).
I could not find high temp silicone grease in our stupid town, only a tube of Plastilube which I believe is only good for the new pad ears.
The pad replacement is urgent.
Is it adviseable to rather totally leave the guide pins as is for now, not even removing them, and then when I eventually get hold of the right grease, just do that?
Or will the caliper pins also urgently need new grease now?
Thanks!
Thanks. Just make sure the pins move freely and smoothly in the calipers with the old grease and check the old pads to see if they wore evenly.
@@screwsnutsandboltsThank you very much! Will do.
I've decided to order a product called Spanjaard Silicon Paste, rated for 200⁰ C, seems to be the only thing I can easily get hold of in South Africa without breaking the bank.
Then will just check in about a year's time if it's still OK ...
Best video of its kind, no bull, just practical clear step by step guide. Can I ask a question, can a stuck calliper cause the wheels to squeal, in my case when the brakes aren't applied the squealing starts, then goes when you lift off the brakes.
Not necessarily, there are other issues that cause the brakes to squeal: www.powerstop.com/resources/causes-and-solutions-for-squealing-brake-pads/
If the squealing continues or you feel a change in brake performance I would take it to a garage to have it checked out, just to be sure.
Thanks, so good of you to reply@@screwsnutsandbolts
Thanks bro..I got a good idea about this
Man" you done that video "really" good !!! - Very very' nice !!! 👍
Thank you !
Bro rotated that boot like 20 times
Excellent video!!! Very clear👏👏and already subscribed🤗
Thank you very much ! 👍
So TTHHAATTSS why the guide pins spin after you loosen yhe caliper bolts!
I always clean the piston as well, if you got the caliper stripped down you may as well do it.
Good Video but what about the 17mm bolts being very dry and what about some copper slip on the thread before doing them back up ?🤔