If you’re doing this for the first time, I suggest buying an additional bottle of brake fluid. You will make a mistake(ask me how I know about that), like spilling fluid somewhere (make sure you have rags available), or pushing the pedal more than you should and reintroducing air into the system, or there is so much bad fluid in the system that even one proper flush isn’t enough. All in all, not a complicated operation. Doing it for the first time, it could be done in less than 30 minutes.
Some people people think flushing brake fluid is not needed, and just a scam to up-sell service during oil change and courtesy inspection. Ive tested brake fluid when I worked in the industry. We used special test strips to detect copper and fluid oxidation, and water. I wondered how accurate these test strips were. My strip showed 300-400 parts copper, and oxidation. Fluid looked a little green. Copper is an indication that excessive wear and oxidation of the brake lines and components are occuring. I took a sample of the brake fluid and sent it to lab for testing. Results showed it had low viscosity, and high copper contamination. So the test strip was accurate. I flush my fluid every 3 years, or 50k. At 190k, I've had no, rust or contamination related problems, no leaks, or other brake problems.
I learned a long time ago that when I do a break job that requires new calipers, not only do I flush the old fluid out of the system, I ALWAYS replace the flex lines also. If the fluid got hot, it also melted the inside of the flex lines, and unless you want to get melted rubber inside your new calipers, I strongly encourage this practice. I know they are about $22ea.(that's what I paid for the last ones I bought for my Ranger), but it's better than doing the job twice!
@@KaraMarchant im not against replacing lines, but ive had plenty of 20yo+ vehicles i never replaced them on, copper washers either, never a problem .. id say if theyre visibly rotted and cracked, yeah its a good idea .. otherwise, its much more common for a steel line to get rusted and collapse internally, replaced alot more of those than flex hoses ..
@dzeyo651 I only replace the flex hoses if I'm spending the $ on new calipers because they are sticking simply because they are gummed up inside with melted rubber from the inside of the flex lines melting due to the fact that the breaks got really hot ,boiling the brake fluid which, then when you press the brake pedal, forces the melted rubber into the calipers. That's the #1 reason calipers go bad. Then ,even if you flush the old fluid out, there is still melted rubber residue inside the old flex lines that may or may not be enough to contaminate the new fluid and gum up your new calipers. Trust me ,I'm speaking from experience and passing onto you this wisdom in hopes of helping you keep from having to do a break job a second time. They don't cost a whole lot of $ and if you already paid for pads,rotors, calipers, inner/outer wheel bearings, bearing grease, brake fluid, and anti squeal gel,on top of your labor time, what's another $40 bucks for the added insurance? This exact scenario happened to me a couple of times before I wised up and started making a habit of replacing them whenever I change the calipers. If the calipers are O.K. and I'm just turning rotors and slapping on new pads I don't bother.
@@KaraMarchantthere is absolutely no conceivable way for brake fluid to get hot enough to melt the inside of your flex line much less “boil” it unless your car is actually on fire, stop it. If that has happened to you “a couple of times” like you said you need to stay away from brake jobs and mechanics altogether as you don’t sound at all remotely qualified
Brake fluid changes in some garages consist of emptying the master cylinder and dropping some fresh brake fluid in. And that's it. They charge for this at the manufacturer's recommended time. Multiply this by as many times people as people bring their car in for service along with other short cuts and you start to make real money. Once you make real money the premises start to get flashier, free coffee machines, suited and booted ' consultants'. A fully stamped service record is the main concern of the client, that's just about all they get. In the UK the slang for a large franchise garage is main stealer.
I hadnt flushed the brake lines in my covette for over 10 years. I found that the back brakes had been blocked & werent working at all. I couldnt bleed any oil through the rear calipers & when i split the calipers they were full of sludge. My front pads had worn out, the back still had 3/4 left on the pad & the master cylinder was also destroyed from rust. I have now bought a bleeding kit to change my oil regularly.
Use 2 feet at the brake pedal , one under the pedal to limit the stroke , you dont want to go all away to the floor . If you are alone , just open the bleeder and pump the pedal like 10 times . then refill reservoir . So you open the bleeder , go pump , then go to close the bleeder . If you have the car on stands , you can use your hand to pump , and watch under car the bottle , when clean fluid comes out you are done there .
Only problem is you don't want to push the brake pedal all the way to the floor because that passes the limit of the seal in the master cylinder. Put a thin piece of wood underneath the pedal if necessary. Do not forget to remove it before you attempt to drive it!
Or a brick. Pushing the pedal to the floor pushes it past a "Ridge" built up over time. Usually, soon after your pedal will not be firm anymore, and slowly bypass to the floor when you need firm brakes. Then it's replace the master, or hone it out and rebuild it.
@illyriaanmbret5660 you hit that brake pedal to the floor with a cracked bleeder screw hose etc. Your pedal travel could damage the master cylinder or other seals 🦭
Thank you, I’ll try this on my truck in the spring. Usually what I’ve done in the past is just suck out as much fluid in the reservoir as I can and poor in new fluid to the full mark once a year. I know it doesn’t change out all the fluid but now I can flush the rest using your method.
Nice work sir. Thanks for taking the time to post helpful content. Beautiful Toyota by the way! I truly miss mine. Probably the best vehicle I ever owned.
I did my brake fluid change for the first time on my Mercedes (B service, 2-year-old fluid), what I did was let each calliper gravity bleed through a clear tube into a bottle. Once the tube was full of fluid and I had let a decent amount of old fluid pass( topping up the reservoir ) keeping the tube in the brake fluid, I just kept pressing the peddle to remove the old fluid. The Brakes are good, it's easy just take your time😊
Great. I was just checking to see if someone made a proper video about brake fluid flush and this is a quality video! Otherwise I would have made one myself, because I found quite a few bad ones. Especially gravity bleeding is an absolute nono. Good job my friend!
I was concerned air would get sucked in past the bleeder valve threads when the brake petal is released. Plus, cant see the results when in the drivers seat. As a sanity check and the help of my wife, bleed one and no air bubbles. Thanks for the tip, seems to work.
I found the following statement: when bleeding the brakes you should NOT press the brake pedal all the way to the floor, instead leave a gap of approximately 2". The reason is so that you do not damage the piston sealing surface in the master cylinder on the compensation port... (or the inlet port)... whichever port is the furthest from the booster side of the master cylinder. I was pressing to the floor yesterday, but very carefully and slow. I've heard some sound, when pressing to the floor. It sounded like coming from the front wheels, so I thought it was the sound produces by the calipers and it was normal. But now, after reading the statement (above) in smb. comment, I recall the sound was coming more from the DS. I'm afraid I've damaged the Master Cylinder somewhat. Fortunately I did yesterday only one wheel (RP), but before I did same thing on front wheels. Now I'm bleeding all the 4 wheels, since replaced the rare brakes as well. Hopefully our 2009 Nissan Sentra survived my previous mistakes. So that statement not to press to the floor and leave ~2", is it for all the cars, or depends on the model? I would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for so informative film, and especially caution about other possible issues besides air in the system!
I installed a new caliper, but it won’t release. The rotor is stuck. I’ve been using a special tool to push the piston back. Then when I do the bleeding procedure the caliper won’t release. It’s messing with my gas mileage and chewing my brake pads. Is it maybe because I’m not doing the bleeding procedure right? Is it OK to have a tube from the bleeder connected to a closed bottle while a friend pushes on the brake and you bleed the valve? Not sure if that’s the correct why to do it? Or should the tube be free from the bottle?
i suggest spraying them out with wd 'after' your all done and cleaned up also 😉 that brake fluid is nasty stuff and absorbs moisture .. if you leave it in and on the bleeder youll regret it next time .. brake cleaner alone will leave it entirely unprotected, which isnt much better ..
Drop glass marble in your turkey baster. It will act as a check valve and prevent fluid in baster from draining back into the master cylinder reservoir.
Good tips & video, but If you're flushing the whole system you really need a 32oz bottle or two of fluid--and if it was first opened more than 6 months or so ago and/or not capped tight, it's probably got too much moisture in it and is no good and you need to get fresh fluid. It's not that expensive and cheap insurance. Auto parts stores often run brake fluid specials with a 32oz bottle, brake cleaner and a packet of lube for $8. And, before you waste all that fluid and make a mess, make sure that there's no leak in the system. It's pretty easy to tell by spills under the car or anywhere else that there are lines, hoses or brake system components.
Brake flush is a honda manufacturer rec every 3yr or 36k, I rec on all brake systems and have fixed alot of weird problems with just flushing, 40 years in auto repair biz
most vehicles still have air in them from the factory .. tiny bubbles adhere to obscure surfaces throughout the system and eventually they move through vibration etc to combine and form larger bubbles, usually making their way down to a caliper as the pads wear and more fluid moves behind the pistons .. the most common place for the majority of it to wind up is at the furthest caliper, but not always ... anytime you have wheels off inspect your rotors .. if one has a gouge or two, chances are it has air in it making it drag ...
I have found it is best to spray vent nipple really good with penetrating oil a day before you do this job as over time they will freeze up and possibly break off…
Great video if your car is pre 2009. You will need to vacuum bleed if its newer. Why? ABS brake system doesnt play nice after you bleed it if done this way
If i get down on the ground to flush my b.fluid I promise you the fluid will be clear looking before I rap things up. If you are going to do a maintenance procedure, go all out.
Sorry but please correct me if i wrong If my car is using ABS module, flushing the brake fluid like this video is only flush the brake system but not flushing abs module at once? Because its different for flushing brake fluid in the abs module? Am i wrong? Please correct me if i wrong 🙏
If you want to get 100% of old fluid out, you need a scan tool to activate the ABS. Also if the system is ran dry, or large amounts of air into primary part of hydraulic system, you will need to activate the ABS, most situations do not require it.
Can you please talk about ABS system on a 2010 Ford Transit van? Lol! 🙏🏼🙏🏼 my ABS light is on and I just bought the van and asked the previous owner about it and she said she had it checked out and they said the brakes were fine but I guess it’s the sensor! But how do you know WHICH sensor needs to be replaced? And is it easy to fix by myself? Lol! I’m a girl ( just fyi) haha! I can do a lot of things by myself but idk about this. Tysm
The Ford Transit can have its ABS light remain on, for a few reasons. You could just be low on brake fluid, triggering the light to come on as a reminder. Topping up the fluid will resolve it. You could also have more serious issues like an ABS If Your wheel speed sensors are faulty, then the ABS light will also come on and stay on. Changing the sensors should resolve the problem. Your welcome
And if u want to change then I recommend you to first search a video of how can u change then probably is easy if u do it in the right way but change all 4 one in every wheel u are gonna find the behind the. Disk
Sometimes if the brakes are still spongy after bleeding the whole system then the whole master cylinder needs to be changed! The seals in the master cylinder has worn out and can't handle the pressure.
Replacing the brake pads do not require bleeding the brakes. Just compress the caliper piston. The brake fluid will be pushed back into the master cylinder.
U r doing it incorrectly. The other end of the tube needs to be submerged with the brake fluids so I don’t introduce air back into the brake line. If u going to show people, pls do some research and do it correctly, otherwise, ur method will ruin some people vehicles and end up cost them more to get it fix. Thx.
You are correct that you must keep air from going back in to the caliper. That’s why it’s important to run the hose UP from the caliper so the air bubbles rise and the fluid falls back down. This is ONE way to do it correctly.
You are wrong regarding the air. The loop up high will prevent air returning to the cylinder so end of tube being done this way does not require submerge into fluid.
I've bled my brake system. Have gone thru FOUR 32oz of brake fluid bottles trying to get air out. Replaced the master thinking that was the culprit. My brake pedal just sinks to the bottom. Unsure what to do at this point. 2004 camry. non-ABS
Did you bench bleed the MC? Also, I had a similar problem with my mom's '92 Camry that had ABS. Turned out that the shop that replaced her MC installed the one meant for non-ABS cars. It really does make a difference, so check to make sure that your MC is for non-ABS cars. I installed the proper MC and the brake were fine after I bled the MC and all 4 calipers.
first-time viewer.
Subscribed.
I really like your presentation.
If you’re doing this for the first time, I suggest buying an additional bottle of brake fluid. You will make a mistake(ask me how I know about that), like spilling fluid somewhere (make sure you have rags available), or pushing the pedal more than you should and reintroducing air into the system, or there is so much bad fluid in the system that even one proper flush isn’t enough. All in all, not a complicated operation. Doing it for the first time, it could be done in less than 30 minutes.
Some people people think flushing brake fluid is not needed, and just a scam to up-sell service during oil change and courtesy inspection. Ive tested brake fluid when I worked in the industry. We used special test strips to detect copper and fluid oxidation, and water. I wondered how accurate these test strips were. My strip showed 300-400 parts copper, and oxidation. Fluid looked a little green. Copper is an indication that excessive wear and oxidation of the brake lines and components are occuring. I took a sample of the brake fluid and sent it to lab for testing. Results showed it had low viscosity, and high copper contamination. So the test strip was accurate. I flush my fluid every 3 years, or 50k. At 190k, I've had no, rust or contamination related problems, no leaks, or other brake problems.
I learned a long time ago that when I do a break job that requires new calipers, not only do I flush the old fluid out of the system, I ALWAYS replace the flex lines also. If the fluid got hot, it also melted the inside of the flex lines, and unless you want to get melted rubber inside your new calipers, I strongly encourage this practice. I know they are about $22ea.(that's what I paid for the last ones I bought for my Ranger), but it's better than doing the job twice!
ive seen years-old fluid actually turn to a molasses consistency😂 .. otherwise the system was fine, but that pedal sure had a stiff feel to it ..
@@KaraMarchant
im not against replacing lines, but ive had plenty of 20yo+ vehicles i never replaced them on, copper washers either, never a problem .. id say if theyre visibly rotted and cracked, yeah its a good idea .. otherwise, its much more common for a steel line to get rusted and collapse internally, replaced alot more of those than flex hoses ..
@dzeyo651 I only replace the flex hoses if I'm spending the $ on new calipers because they are sticking simply because they are gummed up inside with melted rubber from the inside of the flex lines melting due to the fact that the breaks got really hot ,boiling the brake fluid which, then when you press the brake pedal, forces the melted rubber into the calipers. That's the #1 reason calipers go bad. Then ,even if you flush the old fluid out, there is still melted rubber residue inside the old flex lines that may or may not be enough to contaminate the new fluid and gum up your new calipers. Trust me ,I'm speaking from experience and passing onto you this wisdom in hopes of helping you keep from having to do a break job a second time. They don't cost a whole lot of $ and if you already paid for pads,rotors, calipers, inner/outer wheel bearings, bearing grease, brake fluid, and anti squeal gel,on top of your labor time, what's another $40 bucks for the added insurance? This exact scenario happened to me a couple of times before I wised up and started making a habit of replacing them whenever I change the calipers. If the calipers are O.K. and I'm just turning rotors and slapping on new pads I don't bother.
@@KaraMarchantthere is absolutely no conceivable way for brake fluid to get hot enough to melt the inside of your flex line much less “boil” it unless your car is actually on fire, stop it. If that has happened to you “a couple of times” like you said you need to stay away from brake jobs and mechanics altogether as you don’t sound at all remotely qualified
Brake fluid changes in some garages consist of emptying the master cylinder and dropping some fresh brake fluid in. And that's it. They charge for this at the manufacturer's recommended time.
Multiply this by as many times people as people bring their car in for service along with other short cuts and you start to make real money.
Once you make real money the premises start to get flashier, free coffee machines, suited and booted ' consultants'.
A fully stamped service record is the main concern of the client, that's just about all they get.
In the UK the slang for a large franchise garage is main stealer.
I hadnt flushed the brake lines in my covette for over 10 years. I found that the back brakes had been blocked & werent working at all. I couldnt bleed any oil through the rear calipers & when i split the calipers they were full of sludge. My front pads had worn out, the back still had 3/4 left on the pad & the master cylinder was also destroyed from rust. I have now bought a bleeding kit to change my oil regularly.
Use 2 feet at the brake pedal , one under the pedal to limit the stroke , you dont want to go all away to the floor . If you are alone , just open the bleeder and pump the pedal like 10 times . then refill reservoir . So you open the bleeder , go pump , then go to close the bleeder . If you have the car on stands , you can use your hand to pump , and watch under car the bottle , when clean fluid comes out you are done there .
Only problem is you don't want to push the brake pedal all the way to the floor because that passes the limit of the seal in the master cylinder. Put a thin piece of wood underneath the pedal if necessary. Do not forget to remove it before you attempt to drive it!
Or a brick. Pushing the pedal to the floor pushes it past a "Ridge" built up over time. Usually, soon after your pedal will not be firm anymore, and slowly bypass to the floor when you need firm brakes. Then it's replace the master, or hone it out and rebuild it.
Can you explain why?
You hit the floor, wuthat brake pedal. Bye bye seals. 🦭
@illyriaanmbret5660 you hit that brake pedal to the floor with a cracked bleeder screw hose etc. Your pedal travel could damage the master cylinder or other seals 🦭
Thank you, I’ll try this on my truck in the spring. Usually what I’ve done in the past is just suck out as much fluid in the reservoir as I can and poor in new fluid to the full mark once a year. I know it doesn’t change out all the fluid but now I can flush the rest using your method.
Nice work sir. Thanks for taking the time to post helpful content. Beautiful Toyota by the way! I truly miss mine. Probably the best vehicle I ever owned.
I did my brake fluid change for the first time on my Mercedes (B service, 2-year-old fluid), what I did was let each calliper gravity bleed through a clear tube into a bottle. Once the tube was full of fluid and I had let a decent amount of old fluid pass( topping up the reservoir ) keeping the tube in the brake fluid, I just kept pressing the peddle to remove the old fluid. The Brakes are good, it's easy just take your time😊
You are 1 of the best mech on UA-cam
He may be, except for mashing the brake pedal through it's full travel without first creating a stop limiter. Cheers.
Thanks, makes me realize I can do this myself.
very clear explanation
Great. I was just checking to see if someone made a proper video about brake fluid flush and this is a quality video! Otherwise I would have made one myself, because I found quite a few bad ones. Especially gravity bleeding is an absolute nono.
Good job my friend!
I was concerned air would get sucked in past the bleeder valve threads when the brake petal is released. Plus, cant see the results when in the drivers seat. As a sanity check and the help of my wife, bleed one and no air bubbles. Thanks for the tip, seems to work.
I just did mine and propped up my phone and hit record when I pumped the brakes. No air came out...
Excellent video! Thank you very much for helping everyone! Appreciate it
I have to do this pretty soon. Brakes are fine, just need to change the fluid. Good video.
Thanks for the helpful video today.
Thanks mate, good clear instructions
Great video 👍
I found the following statement: when bleeding the brakes you should NOT press the brake pedal all the way to the floor, instead leave a gap of approximately 2". The reason is so that you do not damage the piston sealing surface in the master cylinder on the compensation port... (or the inlet port)... whichever port is the furthest from the booster side of the master cylinder.
I was pressing to the floor yesterday, but very carefully and slow. I've heard some sound, when pressing to the floor. It sounded like coming from the front wheels, so I thought it was the sound produces by the calipers and it was normal. But now, after reading the statement (above) in smb. comment, I recall the sound was coming more from the DS. I'm afraid I've damaged the Master Cylinder somewhat. Fortunately I did yesterday only one wheel (RP), but before I did same thing on front wheels. Now I'm bleeding all the 4 wheels, since replaced the rare brakes as well. Hopefully our 2009 Nissan Sentra survived my previous mistakes.
So that statement not to press to the floor and leave ~2", is it for all the cars, or depends on the model? I would appreciate any opinion on this matter.
Thank you for so informative film, and especially caution about other possible issues besides air in the system!
I installed a new caliper, but it won’t release. The rotor is stuck. I’ve been using a special tool to push the piston back. Then when I do the bleeding procedure the caliper won’t release. It’s messing with my gas mileage and chewing my brake pads. Is it maybe because I’m not doing the bleeding procedure right?
Is it OK to have a tube from the bleeder connected to a closed bottle while a friend pushes on the brake and you bleed the valve? Not sure if that’s the correct why to do it? Or should the tube be free from the bottle?
Make sure to spray the bleeders with wd40 before. Sometimes u need to use heat if they are rusted, and dont use too much force
i suggest spraying them out with wd 'after' your all done and cleaned up also 😉 that brake fluid is nasty stuff and absorbs moisture .. if you leave it in and on the bleeder youll regret it next time .. brake cleaner alone will leave it entirely unprotected, which isnt much better ..
Drop glass marble in your turkey baster. It will act as a check valve and prevent fluid in baster from draining back into the master cylinder reservoir.
Great idea! Thanks!
Genius 😮
Good tips & video, but If you're flushing the whole system you really need a 32oz bottle or two of fluid--and if it was first opened more than 6 months or so ago and/or not capped tight, it's probably got too much moisture in it and is no good and you need to get fresh fluid. It's not that expensive and cheap insurance. Auto parts stores often run brake fluid specials with a 32oz bottle, brake cleaner and a packet of lube for $8.
And, before you waste all that fluid and make a mess, make sure that there's no leak in the system. It's pretty easy to tell by spills under the car or anywhere else that there are lines, hoses or brake system components.
Brake flush is a honda manufacturer rec every 3yr or 36k, I rec on all brake systems and have fixed alot of weird problems with just flushing, 40 years in auto repair biz
Great video buddy ......
If you put the end of the tube into a bottle with a small amount of brake fluid it will prevent any air from being pulled back into the brake line .
Great instructions...I watched it cuz I saw the Toyota pickup and wanted to look at it 😅
You can use what Scotty Kilmer recommends, even through it's with DOT 3. Using Bosch 5.1.
Nice!
great video, how air gets into the system when is not obvious leaks??. Thanks
most vehicles still have air in them from the factory .. tiny bubbles adhere to obscure surfaces throughout the system and eventually they move through vibration etc to combine and form larger bubbles, usually making their way down to a caliper as the pads wear and more fluid moves behind the pistons .. the most common place for the majority of it to wind up is at the furthest caliper, but not always ... anytime you have wheels off inspect your rotors .. if one has a gouge or two, chances are it has air in it making it drag ...
That's a one clean Toyota
Well done!!!
I have found it is best to spray vent nipple really good with penetrating oil a day before you do this job as over time they will freeze up and possibly break off…
A faulty ABS module will cause a sinking brake pedal and/or low brake pedal also, at least on a KIA.
How many brake fluid bottle will I need
Not bad good video 👌 😊😅😊
Thanks
You are missing the rubber plug on the rear drums to the brake adjuster.
How safe is it to be sitting in your car when it's on jackstands.
Great video if your car is pre 2009.
You will need to vacuum bleed if its newer.
Why? ABS brake system doesnt play nice after you bleed it if done this way
i've done several cars this way, all newer than 2009. haven't had any issues yet. what issues would it cause?
If i get down on the ground to flush my b.fluid I promise you the fluid will be clear looking before I rap things up. If you are going to do a maintenance procedure, go all out.
You mentioned abs and your demo vehicle did not have abs. Is there a different procedure for one with the abs?
He did mention to follow the bleeding procedure furthest from the ABS module, otherwise it should be the same.
What about the driver side rear ? Is that not needed?
This is a budget channel.
Do u really need to sell a flush. On a vdo for flush.
Sorry but please correct me if i wrong
If my car is using ABS module, flushing the brake fluid like this video is only flush the brake system but not flushing abs module at once? Because its different for flushing brake fluid in the abs module?
Am i wrong? Please correct me if i wrong 🙏
If you want to get 100% of old fluid out, you need a scan tool to activate the ABS. Also if the system is ran dry, or large amounts of air into primary part of hydraulic system, you will need to activate the ABS, most situations do not require it.
@@tssci6774 thanks for the explanation
Anyway, sorry one more question..
When we bleed the brake system, is it better we bleed it with the engine is on or its okay with the engine off?
@@hutomoardi1940 off
@@tssci6774 thanks a lot !!🙏
Can you please talk about ABS system on a 2010 Ford Transit van? Lol! 🙏🏼🙏🏼 my ABS light is on and I just bought the van and asked the previous owner about it and she said she had it checked out and they said the brakes were fine but I guess it’s the sensor! But how do you know WHICH sensor needs to be replaced? And is it easy to fix by myself? Lol!
I’m a girl ( just fyi) haha! I can do a lot of things by myself but idk about this.
Tysm
The Ford Transit can have its ABS light remain on, for a few reasons. You could just be low on brake fluid, triggering the light to come on as a reminder. Topping up the fluid will resolve it. You could also have more serious issues like an ABS If Your wheel speed sensors are faulty, then the ABS light will also come on and stay on. Changing the sensors should resolve the problem. Your welcome
And if u want to change then I recommend you to first search a video of how can u change then probably is easy if u do it in the right way but change all 4 one in every wheel u are gonna find the behind the. Disk
Thank you so much for this information! You’re absolutely awesome! 👏
@@rodolfosandoval4840well the brake fluid is full and clean so I’m guessing it’s the sensors . Ugh!
@@chartmann43yes most likely
Sometimes if the brakes are still spongy after bleeding the whole system then the whole master cylinder needs to be changed! The seals in the master cylinder has worn out and can't handle the pressure.
I'm guna replace my front pads on my car do I need to bleed the rear as well?
Nope!
Replacing the brake pads do not require bleeding the brakes. Just compress the caliper piston. The brake fluid will be pushed back into the master cylinder.
I suggest testing your fluid with a tester rather than flush because of time
That can help to check if water got in, but the color of the fluid clearly shows contamination present. That alone is a reason to bleed tge brakes.
Civics is different. Driver's side 1st.
Source? I'm preparing to flush the brakes on my 02 Civic EX next weekend, so I would appreciate if you could help me out.
mahalo
🎉🎉
This shouldn't be taught on UA-cam. Major safety issues.
U r doing it incorrectly. The other end of the tube needs to be submerged with the brake fluids so I don’t introduce air back into the brake line. If u going to show people, pls do some research and do it correctly, otherwise, ur method will ruin some people vehicles and end up cost them more to get it fix. Thx.
You are correct that you must keep air from going back in to the caliper. That’s why it’s important to run the hose UP from the caliper so the air bubbles rise and the fluid falls back down. This is ONE way to do it correctly.
His tubing is so long, the caliper won't suck enough volume to get to the air. That's why he didn't submerge the end.
You are wrong regarding the air. The loop up high will prevent air returning to the cylinder so end of tube being done this way does not require submerge into fluid.
Is it why the line is elevated to the car body to stop the air reversing back up the line?
I've bled my brake system. Have gone thru FOUR 32oz of brake fluid bottles trying to get air out. Replaced the master thinking that was the culprit. My brake pedal just sinks to the bottom. Unsure what to do at this point.
2004 camry. non-ABS
Did you bench bleed the MC? Also, I had a similar problem with my mom's '92 Camry that had ABS. Turned out that the shop that replaced her MC installed the one meant for non-ABS cars. It really does make a difference, so check to make sure that your MC is for non-ABS cars. I installed the proper MC and the brake were fine after I bled the MC and all 4 calipers.
You really dont need to take the wheels off if your vehicle sits high enough...