Відео

I’m so confused why wouldn’t you want ceramics for an heavy load usage? Wouldn’t they be way better? Less brake fade, and last way longer

great video! all info no bs! and explained very well, thank you sir!!!

I have an interesting problem. my brake assist is great and no issues there but when I sit in the car and try to start the car the very first time (cold start) I have to really press hard on my brake for the ignition switch push start to get enabled for the car to start . However, once I get the car started, the brake works completely fine and when I stop and turn the engine off, I can start it again without applying too much pressure on the brake pedal, but if I leave the vehicle and come back after an hour and then try to start the car again, I have to really press hard on the brakes For the ignition switch to get enabled. At first, I thought my break switch was going bad, but it is not. Can you guide me what the problem could be? I did replace my check valve, but that did not change anything. It seems like I am supposed to have vacuum in the booster, but for some reason, the vacuum escapes after like 30-40mins. I’m not sure what else is supposed to keep the vacuum inside the booster beside the check valve. Please help.

Those things will be springing Hydraulic Leaks in short Order, with loss of Rear Brakes. I refuse to use the Parking Brake and have disabled any Hill Assist on my Car, so as to reduce any stress/wear/contamination of the Seals

Problem is these days you don’t know which one to do what sequence I mean.

What might the problem when my 2014 BMW makes a very loud Boom sound when I step on my brakes; or when I stop the vehicle, and then moved forward again? My friend says to him it sounds like common problem with BMWs...thank you.

Great explanation, I did not find it somewhere else!

Good contents with demo

Know this post is 5 years old but couldn't help but chime in. I have that brake tool. Its a good guide for a rough measurement but if you use it as you specified its too tight. Brakes should not drag at all . Instead use the tool and then add 1mm to each side free play if you will. Another words you can eye ball a mm of daylight on each side between the fork and the shoe. . As the pads heat up they expand and then causes more drag and excessive heat. Also you will lose a minute amount of gas mileage with the brakes dragging. Hope this helps.

i put ceramics on the motorcycle & it make a huge difference over stock organic.

You showed absolutely nothing about a self adjuster, what it looks like or even how to turn it or whatever. Poor video

You’re a pro!!!! Thank you

Thanks, i had this problem and wondered how could a brake hose clog, but your explanation about the rust makes perfect sense as this car was sitting fir 10 years

Thank you for explaining the difference very clearly I’ve been studying on this and couldn’t really wrap my head around the duo servo style, now I get it! Thanks!!

Besides using it, I missed the prevention part.

Great video, thanks for posting this!

I just got new control arms installed and it just started making that door creaking sound only when coming to a stop like as the weight of the car moves at a stop. I can hear it when i pump the brakes while rollling very slowly.

rip this guy's hearing

Thanks for the tips sir!

Very short very simple answer I liked and subbed

Thanks for this video. Ill show it to my Supervisor after he told me I was adjusting the drums wrong, like in this video... Arghhh!!!

Yes that shit omg

Wait a minute, you had the rotor off already. The hub was wire wheeled already and clean as a whistle. I bet you had to beat the tar out of that rotor, even after the parking brake was disengaged. I know I had to...

Oh, come on now! A small pair of needle-nose ViseGrips works just fine. You just have to use your head... FEEL for how much pressure you're clamping with and back it off when there otherwise could be damage! Lastly, clamp from below so that there is no twist. It helps to tape up the teeth to protect against abrasion as well. Those plastic clamps are not needed and frankly they are often flimsy.

Greetings f u from Iraq❤❤❤

Learned a lesson today. Always use the clips that came with the caliper. We were trying to install the new clips that came with the new pads and fought with them until we realized they where much smaller than the ones we took off. The original clips went back on in seconds. After watching this video, I knew there was something not adding up.

Stop putting water and moisture in your brake system. Then you can use DOT 5

A park brake that cannot be trusted. At least the lever/cable system wouldn’t fail because of a leaking seal. All seals will eventually leak. Then no park brake.

I prefer a $20 cable instead hand brake instead ...

Thanks...do it yourself they say.. mumble mumble back to the truck

Can you put the link to the tool please?

The Iceman. Nice info. Thank you for video

What's the plan if that little adjustment dial doesn't loosen the shoes like if the shoes are seized the inside of the hat?

yupt he the one.. the only one taking a part and explains how electric e brake work.. Respect Sir..🫡

In my BMW just replaced rotors pads full service found a warped pin replaced cleaned everything and already have my front left giving weird signs occasionally when I had to brake hard for a stop and it locked up quite a bit and pulsed. Then today after a lot of rain I noticed the front left again is just starting to scar on the outside who knows about the inside it’s brand new pad and rotor and the bigger issue is it never fixed any vibration from me cleaning and replacing.

Thank you, brilliant. Weill explained, great presentation and information.

My brake system smokes using semi met Maybe i put ceramic back

pisses me off these motherfuckers dont make the s-slot for the ford edges

I would have liked to have seen the other wheels brakes too.

Those Clips are to Just Warn you when the Brake Pads are Worn out you can hear the Wire Squeeling

I have less issue with the hub area rusting. My biggest concern is the brake surface rusting. I bought a set of brakes with geomet coating on the rotors and the hubs are fine, but honestly, I don't care if they look pretty. But the brake surface rusted, pitted and completely wore out a set of ceramic brake pads in 11 months/9,000 miles. I'm just looking for a rotor with better rust resistance in the metal itself, not a coating on top.

Interesting! Thank you.

These things are a nightmare to get off it must be said.

Just use what 90% of repair shops use: Sil-Glyde. Clean and lube caliper pins, clean caliper bracket insets of all rust, thin grease inset areas and install new hardware, use very small amount and in thin layer on top of clips where pad ears meet clips (don't apply to pad ears themselves), use on back of pads where piston and ears meet pads. Use Sil-Glyde for all. You'll never have a problem.

As a factory-trained Ammco service tech I've collected a decent amount of genuine Ammco parts over the last 40+ years. I'm retiring and have a parts inventory list if you are interested.

Just wanted to share some symptoms of brake hose clamp gone wrong... I to old to do my own services anymore, so took my 2018 Toyota to the local dealer. They checked and said it also needed new brake fluid.......I think they also adjusted the handbrake. The first highway trip I did about a week latter gave me the impression the handbrake was dragging slightly..... after about 5 miles at highway speeds the van started shaking like as if it have lost wheel balance weights, as I slowed down the vibration/ shaking went away.... I was checking engine temp and oil pressure the only thing that seemed wrong was the fuel economy read out was indicating real bad fuel economy and the vehicle was sluggish in acceleration... So I stopped and while checking if I had a loose wheel I discovered both back wheel hubs were so hot you could feel the radiant heat 6 inches away with your hand and it was accompanied by a burning smell. I let it cool for about two hours and then attempted to limp home, sort if feeling it was badly adjusted handbrake i was dealing with... Once home I phone the local garage that did my service and explained the problem and how I was not to keen to drive it any further, as I was staring to think such extreme heat could be burning the dif seals, hence the smell of burning... They sent out a mechanic who jacked both back wheels up and tried out the handbrake, it was stopping and releasing perfectly.... making me seem like the boy who cried wolf, as the problem seemed gone... Just as he was about to pack up he asked me to apply the foot brake, then he asked me to release the foot brake, he even checked to see I was no where near the foot brake, the back brakes were locked on hard. We were both puzzled at what could cause that, but when I mentioned the service included brake fluid change, he said ok ley me check something and dived under the van appearing a few seconds latter with their shops brake hose clamp.... After which the brakes were prefect again.... I post this in the hope it helps someone trying to sort their brake problems.

I use ceramic and its good braking. But semi metallic has more bite. But it is hotter in rotor disk and downhill is smoking. So im thinking for ceramic back

I want to buy some for my vehicle, but they only make the rear pads for it. How weird is that.

Can someone please help me I had brakes and did the vvt on the driver side on my 08 ford expedition and had the valve cover off and couldn't reach a bolt and had to turn the wheel so I could reach it and I turned the key to on to turn the wheel and after I put everything back together brake pedal is still stiff like your towing it and have no clue what caused that

Amazing