Many different designs for each type of project are also included. For example, there are hundreds of designs ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxb2mhCug-GkCWrq69Ce2I0nM0D4QpxAqu for outdoor buildings, from small sheds all the way up to a complete stable. Choose whatever type of shed or storage house is right for you. Pick from fancy ones or more utilitarian designs.
With this house, I finally became the owner of the house I always wanted to be in. The hospital elite package has 2 bonuses; the first is about the base and the roof, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxS-P9OAq3v4HNpPFqYFWNEq9A-E_PbZIN the second is about the confidential staff who give advice and the advice that worked for me. Thank you very much
Thanks for watching!! This is the final episode in the "Shed to Workshop" series. I'll keep working in here for the next couple months and build out some cool organization solutions... once It's done I'll do a "Modern Builds Shop Tour 2021" so let me know if you have any ideas or workshop questions here!! 🤙🏼
uh, those switch/outlet combo's aren't rated for high loads (table saw + lighting and extra equipment) flickering lighting indicates that just the saw alone has a high starting current. Long story short, check the max rated current of the combo switch. and if your equipment exceeds that value. consider using the switch only for the lights.
Nothing to do with the switch. The inrush current from the saw table motor is causing the voltage output of the inverter to temporally drop, thus causing the lights to dim.
I would’ve done a separate DC circuit for the lights and direct dc leds. That way u don’t lose 15% from the goal zero inverter then 15% from the led driver inverter
Anytime you cut the tube, file the inside to prevent the wire rubbing on it Also, there was no need to splice the wire, it can cause future issues unless you ran out of cable, in that case you use some brass wire connectors that you tighten using screws. In your case, you could've just ran the cable directly to the source or used a wire puller (they sell them at home depot, orange and go up to 100ft I think)if it's too complicated
I loved 99% of it! Great video and thanks for the inspiration. The only thing I don't like is how those wires hang out of the switch conduit box just taped up with electrical tape.
I think putting all your batteries right between both exits would be a problem in case of a battery fire. I would at least move the big, main batteries to the back of the shed, since you don't need to access them regularly anyway.
5:51 Not sure of your standards but here in NZ with metal housings, we wire the green (and yellow) earth cable to the metal housing (and hence conduit). That way if a stray whisker of live or an oopsie happens then you're ok.
I’m a licensed professional engineer in the US and I comment on most of his videos because he does a lot of code violations in his videos. Well, all DIY you tubers do. I should start a channel to describe how all of them are creating fire hazards that other people might be following.
@@jaydouglas1090 I'd honestly enjoy video's where you'd break down what he does wrong, and how to improve it. Always fun to see how you build and wire your electrics in the US compared to in Europe :)
This is a cool setup and I wish I had the california sun to be able to set up something like this. As an electrician, however, I would not take any of his advice on how to do electrical work, it is definitely not up to code and can be potentially dangerous.
as an electrician. atleast in my country. we have take the earth/ground wire to main box to get equally ground,he technically can blow up his generator later.with that multiple heavy tool.
What made you choose to run the lights on AC instead of LV DC? Seems like a waste to run the inverter to convert the battery output to AC and then rectify back to DC in the lights. They don't draw that much power but you may get rid of the flickering problem moving that load off the inverter. Loved the video btw, an off grid shop is awesome
first of all.its simpler to make wiring, you point is true about the power loss of the changing dc to ac.my setup loss about 10 to 15% of the calculation due to cable etc.but make sure the power output of your ac convertor can output high watt like more than you use. have a great solar output,battery capacity, all plays part in that. overall he play it easy, no calculation. that table saw need atleast 1500w maybe. in future he need to ugrade this setup.its not balance
@@canul3801 ur actually losing like 30% bc the solar is going into the battery then the battery is going back to AC then the led lights from AC to DC another time. and yes while leds are very low power 30% loss is still significant
@@dylan-nguyen well yeah.but in my opinion.that is easier way. 30% is huge,but even if use the direct ac,the loss up to 15%. also it is easier to find and replace dc thing,more universal and cheap
1. Since price is apparently no object, I would have gone with the 1500, just in case you add a larger tool in the future. 2. The stranded wire should have used crimp rings or spades. It doesn’t hold as well under the screw terminals. 3. Your feeds from the power station should have been in strain reliefs, not just conduit adapters. 4. Bent conduit is fine, but flexible conduit to the lights would work easier. 5. Dual conduits vertical is fine, but a single 3/4 would work just as well.
I think it’s a sigma art lens. Usually gms don’t have a silver circle on the side of it. I’ve used a ton of sigmas and gm lenses before switching to canon
The reason your lights flicker is because when an electric motor starts up, it goes from not moving to high momentum so there is a lot of physical resistance until the motor gets spinning. That resistance causes a current surge as the motor works harder to get up to speed. and your circuit is overloaded for a brief second. Be sure to check that your cables can handle that surge as you don’t want your cables melting. But also it’s an indication that maybe you might want to beef your setup up. Obviously it’s fine for normal use. But if you plan to have multiple things running at the same time it may become a problem quite quickly.
At face level electrical work is kinda easy, you can achieve the results you want with a little research. And while it’s interesting to watch you learn and attempt this, there are certain safety factors to take into account when doing this type of thing. And unless it was something as simple as a new plug socket or a new light, I would leave it to a pro. Someone with the gear to do continuity checks and who can give you paperwork to say this is safe. And who also understands current flow at a more technical level so you don’t get things like this.
nice video. Solar system + battery pack = that's not really approachable for everyday DIYers like me but just looking at you getting the project done is virtually satisfying!
Yeah that's like $5k of equipment at least. Unless you're totally off the grid like this, it'll be a lot cheaper to just run power from your home to your shed. If you're just dedicated to using solar, spend the money to add solar to your primary home and then run power from there to your shed.
I was hesitant to watch this video bc I thought it was going to be one giant commercial for goal zero. Instead, I learned some stuff about conduit and a cool way to wire things up. I like the way you handled this video. Thanks.
Very cool Mike you could literally put that shed on wheels and go make anywhere now. Also love all the haters in the comments already hahaha I think you did great.
Seems like a big oversight from Goal Zero to have to use a separate solar charge controller with the additional Tanks instead of the charge controller that's built in.
That cutter is the same type used for plumbing as well. I want to put up a studio in a shed, there is no electrical so this is an excellent way to get electrical to my building.
I’m really glad you broke down the solar/electric set up. If I built a small workshop I’d prefer to go solar since I have plenty of it where I live like you do and it just makes sense. Not sure how much all that cost though
If I were you I would also support the emt 3 feet after the junction boxes. That’s code but also it’ll help them not move especially if you hit them with a tool or piece of wood. Hitting unsupported emt may cause it to move and bite into your wire. Also I would pound a ground bar in outside your shed and ground your metal junction boxes.
That startup draw is serious on the table saw. Its quality level combined with motor size and that’s a hard thing to balance to get anything without heavy startup. Limiting even on grid power unless you’ve done some changes to make shop power. Basic garage power vs tiny upgrades make a huge difference.
Pretty much most electric motors have an inrush current of 6 times its full load current. Also depends on how many poles and type of motor. Today for instance i had to run a 55kw 2 pole and a 55kw 4 pole motor. Start up current for the 2 pole was 287amps and the 4 pole was 190amps. The faster the motor the less torque so it takes more power to get the rotor turning
@@SoHighIFly I’ve always assumed a circuit and/or combined with a start capacitor can smooth it out. Or simple a soft start feature the more upper range tools have. I expect a ridiculous startup draw for a 12” miter saw just because of the physics. I am not sure how the cost/quality and application of motors works out. Like if you want a lighter motor because it’s a semi-portable tool but it needs to have so many amps and since it can’t compensate it just has to have enough power to go though. Seems the way is always brute motors.
In. General, I like them video and idea of getting off grid with green electricity (neglecting the resourced the production of all of this used). However, not sure how many people might get down to reality when they see that the rough spend (w/o conduits, cables, etc.) is $4.5k. Not sure how much a kWh in your place costs, but you can by a lot of kWh for this. Those equipment need to get way (!!!!) cheaper, before it will have a significant positive impact overall. Just my 2 cents.
12:42 "GOAL ZERO is not sponsoring this video" Title says: "MODERN BUILDS x GOAL ZERO" Description is fitted with tracking link to their site and GOAL ZERO is mentioned 3 times in the first 3 sentences. I'm no geologist but I feel as though this was sponsored.
I'm guessing the 'video' isn't sponsored but he got a free system out of it and was paid for the Goal Zero video. So, yes, 'not sponsored' is a bit of we stretch.
I think he just got the stuff for free, which is in itself almost $5000. If they haven't paid him to make this video or have a contact that he has to even mention the product, I don't think he has to disclose it as a sponsorship. But as he likes to get more free stuff he does it anyway.
@@nils1953 typically these "not sponsored" videos comes with a list of rules the end user has to follow in order to keep the system instead of just "borrow for video". I just wish he would have clarified because it seems a bit shady.
@@Reidbit that could very well be. I remember a video of mathias Wandel where he got tools from dewalt with no strings attached. He didn't even make videos about them because he disliked the product. But as Mike asked goal zero for their products I am sure there must have been some sort of contract.
A lot of times you tubers will have a “sponsored video” and that differs from that they consider a “free product” or “brand deal”. So yes, he got a free product and got a brand deal of sorts, but the specific video had a different sponsor. But at the end of the day, money is money. Doesn’t really matter what label you put on it. GZ got a lot of value out of it because they didn’t have to pay an actor to do a photo shoot and got a real world example. It’s a win win for both of them. While our attention is monetized. That’s the game. Would have been cool to make it a win/win/win and give a second goal zero away to the community.
Cool setup. Good points made by other commenter. With 1.6m subscribers I'd imagine the checks are getting nice. Maybe it's time to upgrade your table saw.
Nice job! I'm all for DIY electrical, cause you can get exactly what you want and its not that hard. Only suggestion I have is to move the switch down a new run of conduit to the other side of the door. Since you have it on the hinge side, it may be tricky to walk in (when its dark) and have to close the door to get to the light switch, rather than reaching just inside on the open side and turning it on.
@@cattigereyes1 I agree, that's a quick way to short out your entire electrical run, the moment someone tries to do anything else to the system. I'm not sure why you posted this as a reply to my suggestion, as I only suggested moving the switch to the other side of the door. However I will agree that standards should be followed, white neutral, black hot, bare copper/green ground.
Electrical apprentice here: You are using the wrong tool to cut conduit. That pipe cutter guy is for plumbing, and it leaves a sharp edge on the inside lip of the pipe. That sharp edge can then damage the insulation on the wires as you pull them through. The correct tool would be a hacksaw or Portaband.
@@dlax141 I agree that you always deburr, but if you use one of those plumber things and then use a conduit reamer or a set of linesmans (instead of like, a file), you could end up folding the burr over and making the problem even worse
A kind and friendly advice , try to work on the volume of talking and sound , its a bit to loud and its not needed. Best regards. Love the contents. 👏🏻👍🏻
When you say ‘reached out to’ do you mean you asked them if they would give you their products in exchange for promotion, and for the sake of convenience and transparency, could you (next time) please state at the beginning of the video the approximate dollar value of the products they supplied? Then we know whether to continue watching the video because of the affordability of the products you were given for free.
He said at the end of the video that they did not sponsor this episode. I'm not sure if that means he necessarily paid full price for them though so I agree that a dollar amount would be helpful!
@@madsenbaum I don’t know about you, but at the start a caption appeared that said ‘Includes paid promotion’ or some such. I was confused then when Squarespace was named as the sponsor. I would like to know what he gets and the monetary value etc.
@@tyrelirwin it would be simple to put an overall figure up front to within say the nearest $200 and most people with genuine interest could come up with a conversion figure. I don’t want to have to dig down and click on multiple links, I want a ballpark figure but I suspect, judging from the comments from people who are familiar with pricing, that potential viewers might be put off watching the rest of the video if they have a good suspicion they won’t be able to afford the product and emulate what they are seeing. Thanks.
@@tyrelirwin He could at least say the full retail cost to him, that would be plenty for anyone watching this to immediately forget about buying it for themselves. That stuff is crazy expensive! Unless you are running totally off grid, you're better off tying your shed into you primary home power. And even if you need solar, there are much cheaper options.
$1,300 fpr the Yeti 1000X, $2,000 for the 4 battery expansion, $1,000 for the 4 solar panels, and $300 for the solar charge controller. Call it 5 grand for the whole setup, including the GoalZero stuff, the lights, wire, conduit and junction/outlet boxes.
Yeah, you will always pay a huge premium for pre packaged stuff like this. For the same ammount he would have had atleast twice the power (probably 3 times) if he went with Batlleborn batterys, victonic chargecontroller/inverter and any generic brand solar panes, and then it would have no upper limit for expansion either.
Yeah weird right? What does he get out of letting them film him?? Maybe they didn't pay for the product, but instead are paying him to do a project shoot for them? Either way he's getting something out of using their product, so a little deceptive. Can't imagine he's doing a shoot for them for nothing in return.
Your boxes need to be grounded. If there's a short caused by the sharp edges that are sure to be in the pipe from using a copper pipe cutter, you will be shocked if it doesn't trip a breaker. All you need to do is hit up a hardware store, pick up some ground tails (Or just the screws if you can find them) and just have it connected to the ground wire and the box in some way. We normally wire all the grounds together and pigtail off of them to the plug.
very very nice over all. But I think you should have also used the conduit on the roof, I am not sure the wires leading to the solar panels can hold up against the elements
Each of those expansion batteries they sell for $500. They have a 100ah AGM battery. So in other words that is really only 50ah. That they put a pretty case around and are selling for $500. Hahaha. I have not seen people get ripped off more then this. Shame on you Goal Zero.. wow
Maybe a strange question, but why are metal pipes always used in America for electricity? this while the rest of the world uses plastic. If a mistake is made, the entire system is not immediately electrified.
At 5:55, did I just hear correctly? That you are putting the single switch that controls the sockets (outlets) at the BATTERY end of the cable run? And not at the outlet itself?? How would someone know that the socket outlet is hot, if they didn’t know to check at the battery pack end? Why not have switches on the outlets themselves, ok yes like we have in the UK, so that there is a safety switch with a visual indication whether the outlet is live? (assuming it’s been wired correctly of course)
probably because this is more standard in america, basically just think of every outlet is always live here, although sometimes we do have switched outlets (for lamps to be controlled at entry ways), but other than that you dont really see switched outlets here, and as he said with the switch off, all outlets are off except at the switch itself for chargers. and also you can just label the switches (had to in my home as every switch was basically backwards, switch on right controlled stuff to my left, switch on left controlled stuff to my right)
maybe just me but I think it make more sense to go with the yeti 6000x than the 1000x and a bunch of extra batteries, I know it would be more expensive but you just have the one unit and a cupple extra hundred watts of power. it would be a simpler setup and that is just how I would have done it.
Journeyman electrician here. As it is, your grounding system isn't doing much to protect this installation because you need to bond each J-box with a small whip of green wire of either kind (or uninsulated solid) and screw it to the box, then splice that into the continuous green loop running throughout. Also, to meet the Code, you'll need to support your conduit within one to three feet of every connector, and every ten feet after that with pipe straps. Plus you'll need to use connectors on your lights rather than run the conduit straight inside. Last thing, a scoring cutter doesn't ream the inside of the conduit and can damage the wire insulation during a pull. You'll want to smooth out the insides of your conduits after each cut with a pair of channel locks or pliers.
@@W00lveR1ne It's not a totally uncommon practice. The ground should be spliced with its pigtail at each box, but the rest don't have to be. Usually a 'service loop' is left in each pull point for later use with the conductors remaining continuous. Making unnecessary splices can add a bit of impedance to the circuit, build up heat, and potentially weaken conductivity. That said, splicing the current carrying conductors at each pull point makes servicing them easier down the line if he needs to isolate and repair part of the system, or decides to expand with receptacles in those boxes.
Amazing Build. I would just change the LEDs for a direct DC conection to the goal zero, you are wasting energy converting DC to AC in the goal zero unit, and then AC to DC in the ballast in the LED lamps. Anyway, great video!
I'm just buy some linkable plug-in lights and save a lot of time with wiring plus have lighting that's easier to change. If he really paid for the Goal Zero equipment, money is clearly no object for him to pay a little more for linkable plug-in lights.
Content creators allowing companies to buy them off and give out one sided reviews just because it's a sponsor is a dishonest stance. You should always stay true to your viewers and give out honest reviews of a product, because if the product doesn't work, you as a content creator will have your credibility questioned, lose viewers, and the company you sponsored will still make money off of your channel and review. Always stay transparent and don't be afraid to draw a clear line of boundaries against any company that will sponsor you.
Don't really know about the goal zero yeti, but one concern is that you don't have any breakers on the system. That could be very dangerous with the tools you use.
Why not do the ruff in electrical after the insulation rather than bending pipe all day? And also what’s causing your lights when you turn on your table saw is the start up current on your table is high thus pulling more for a split sec
Many different designs for each type of project are also included. For example, there are hundreds of designs ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxb2mhCug-GkCWrq69Ce2I0nM0D4QpxAqu for outdoor buildings, from small sheds all the way up to a complete stable. Choose whatever type of shed or storage house is right for you. Pick from fancy ones or more utilitarian designs.
With this house, I finally became the owner of the house I always wanted to be in. The hospital elite package has 2 bonuses; the first is about the base and the roof, ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxS-P9OAq3v4HNpPFqYFWNEq9A-E_PbZIN the second is about the confidential staff who give advice and the advice that worked for me. Thank you very much
Thanks for watching!! This is the final episode in the "Shed to Workshop" series. I'll keep working in here for the next couple months and build out some cool organization solutions... once It's done I'll do a "Modern Builds Shop Tour 2021" so let me know if you have any ideas or workshop questions here!! 🤙🏼
How many years do solar panels last for?
Noticed that foundation crack.. in the cement rebar helps stop this and concrete joints as well.
uh, those switch/outlet combo's aren't rated for high loads (table saw + lighting and extra equipment) flickering lighting indicates that just the saw alone has a high starting current. Long story short, check the max rated current of the combo switch. and if your equipment exceeds that value. consider using the switch only for the lights.
Nothing to do with the switch. The inrush current from the saw table motor is causing the voltage output of the inverter to temporally drop, thus causing the lights to dim.
I would’ve done a separate DC circuit for the lights and direct dc leds. That way u don’t lose 15% from the goal zero inverter then 15% from the led driver inverter
Anytime you cut the tube, file the inside to prevent the wire rubbing on it
Also, there was no need to splice the wire, it can cause future issues unless you ran out of cable, in that case you use some brass wire connectors that you tighten using screws. In your case, you could've just ran the cable directly to the source or used a wire puller (they sell them at home depot, orange and go up to 100ft I think)if it's too complicated
I loved 99% of it! Great video and thanks for the inspiration. The only thing I don't like is how those wires hang out of the switch conduit box just taped up with electrical tape.
UA-camrs be like : '' and when I had the idea to run my workshop on solar Goal zero was who I reached out to first " lmao
I think putting all your batteries right between both exits would be a problem in case of a battery fire. I would at least move the big, main batteries to the back of the shed, since you don't need to access them regularly anyway.
5:51 Not sure of your standards but here in NZ with metal housings, we wire the green (and yellow) earth cable to the metal housing (and hence conduit). That way if a stray whisker of live or an oopsie happens then you're ok.
Our national code requires us to ground our raceways as well when they're made of metal.
I’m a licensed professional engineer in the US and I comment on most of his videos because he does a lot of code violations in his videos. Well, all DIY you tubers do. I should start a channel to describe how all of them are creating fire hazards that other people might be following.
@@jaydouglas1090 I'd honestly enjoy video's where you'd break down what he does wrong, and how to improve it. Always fun to see how you build and wire your electrics in the US compared to in Europe :)
@@jaydouglas1090 would like to see it too:D
This is a cool setup and I wish I had the california sun to be able to set up something like this. As an electrician, however, I would not take any of his advice on how to do electrical work, it is definitely not up to code and can be potentially dangerous.
Exactly what I was thinking lol. None of his junction boxes were grounded
as an electrician. atleast in my country. we have take the earth/ground wire to main box to get equally ground,he technically can blow up his generator later.with that multiple heavy tool.
The goal zero has all the protection he needs inside the unit in fact there is no ground on the 2 output outlets from the goal zero
mettal casing is not allowed in my contry if you dont ground wier it this is dangeroes
What made you choose to run the lights on AC instead of LV DC? Seems like a waste to run the inverter to convert the battery output to AC and then rectify back to DC in the lights. They don't draw that much power but you may get rid of the flickering problem moving that load off the inverter. Loved the video btw, an off grid shop is awesome
Thougth the same, it will be safer to run the lights on DC rather than AC.
first of all.its simpler to make wiring, you point is true about the power loss of the changing dc to ac.my setup loss about 10 to 15% of the calculation due to cable etc.but make sure the power output of your ac convertor can output high watt like more than you use. have a great solar output,battery capacity, all plays part in that. overall he play it easy, no calculation. that table saw need atleast 1500w maybe. in future he need to ugrade this setup.its not balance
@@canul3801 ur actually losing like 30% bc the solar is going into the battery then the battery is going back to AC then the led lights from AC to DC another time.
and yes while leds are very low power 30% loss is still significant
@@dylan-nguyen well yeah.but in my opinion.that is easier way. 30% is huge,but even if use the direct ac,the loss up to 15%. also it is easier to find and replace dc thing,more universal and cheap
It's amazing how far this little shack has come.
1. Since price is apparently no object, I would have gone with the 1500, just in case you add a larger tool in the future.
2. The stranded wire should have used crimp rings or spades. It doesn’t hold as well under the screw terminals.
3. Your feeds from the power station should have been in strain reliefs, not just conduit adapters.
4. Bent conduit is fine, but flexible conduit to the lights would work easier.
5. Dual conduits vertical is fine, but a single 3/4 would work just as well.
#1 price is definitely not a concern with this build lol.
You gotta get a lav mic when you're recording in that shop!
Punches the running saw blade in celebration
I was thinking the same shit xD
I haven’t seen the video yet but your comment caught my eye… Perhaps I’ll watch this video in 2x speed, lol!
😂 I swear I was thinking the same thing. looked down and saw this is the most popular comment 🤣🙆🏻♂️
It’s the Super Pro way.
@@APHATMOUSE 12:41
Make sure to build something to secure that $2000 Sony GM Lens haha
I just saw it at the end and started to cry for the lens 😢
I think it’s a sigma art lens. Usually gms don’t have a silver circle on the side of it. I’ve used a ton of sigmas and gm lenses before switching to canon
Just double-checked. It's a Sony GM@@brandonlee4110
All it takes is one earthquake. And I’m pretty sure that workshop is near a fault-line.
@@criscutfry or even just all the sawdust he'll generate... Give it some kind of enclosure for dust protection
Get some Wago clamps instead of those sketchy twist on electric knobs.
Those things are not up to code for a reason (at least over here in Europe)
Wago clapms are the best ❤️
And pls get the original... The other ones are mostly bs
The reason your lights flicker is because when an electric motor starts up, it goes from not moving to high momentum so there is a lot of physical resistance until the motor gets spinning. That resistance causes a current surge as the motor works harder to get up to speed. and your circuit is overloaded for a brief second. Be sure to check that your cables can handle that surge as you don’t want your cables melting. But also it’s an indication that maybe you might want to beef your setup up. Obviously it’s fine for normal use. But if you plan to have multiple things running at the same time it may become a problem quite quickly.
At face level electrical work is kinda easy, you can achieve the results you want with a little research. And while it’s interesting to watch you learn and attempt this, there are certain safety factors to take into account when doing this type of thing. And unless it was something as simple as a new plug socket or a new light, I would leave it to a pro. Someone with the gear to do continuity checks and who can give you paperwork to say this is safe. And who also understands current flow at a more technical level so you don’t get things like this.
Who needs a tester screwdriver when u have a table saw 😂
How really uses a tester screwdriver??😂
I just use it because it's a screwdriver that I know fits most of the electrical stuff. But I never used it for testing
So I wasn’t the only one huh. But, still great video Mike. Thumbs up.
nice video. Solar system + battery pack = that's not really approachable for everyday DIYers like me but just looking at you getting the project done is virtually satisfying!
Yeah that's like $5k of equipment at least. Unless you're totally off the grid like this, it'll be a lot cheaper to just run power from your home to your shed.
If you're just dedicated to using solar, spend the money to add solar to your primary home and then run power from there to your shed.
That wire trick for water, GENIUS.
when do we see the rest of the house renovation?
You gonna ground the metal conduit to those ground wires, and while you're at it ground the building?
I was hesitant to watch this video bc I thought it was going to be one giant commercial for goal zero. Instead, I learned some stuff about conduit and a cool way to wire things up. I like the way you handled this video. Thanks.
Do not follow this example, this is not how you wire things up.
Very cool Mike you could literally put that shed on wheels and go make anywhere now. Also love all the haters in the comments already hahaha I think you did great.
Seems like a big oversight from Goal Zero to have to use a separate solar charge controller with the additional Tanks instead of the charge controller that's built in.
Can we have a bus update, haven’t seen anything on Instagram either
That cutter is the same type used for plumbing as well. I want to put up a studio in a shed, there is no electrical so this is an excellent way to get electrical to my building.
Don't use a plumbing cutter for electrical--it leaves a sharp edge on the inside of the pipe and can damage the wire.
I’m really glad you broke down the solar/electric set up. If I built a small workshop I’d prefer to go solar since I have plenty of it where I live like you do and it just makes sense. Not sure how much all that cost though
$5K not worth it imo.
Really interesting to sea this battery power stations used for off grid work shop applications. Might consider doing it myself.
Let’s go, I’ve been waiting for this!
Awesome Mike. Very nice very cool. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep making. God bless.
paint the back side of the door hinges😍🥰
Thanks for going Solar.
Really do like your vids. But can you please run a normalise function on the audio output before you upload!!
THIS SHED IS SO DOPE!!
If I were you I would also support the emt 3 feet after the junction boxes. That’s code but also it’ll help them not move especially if you hit them with a tool or piece of wood. Hitting unsupported emt may cause it to move and bite into your wire. Also I would pound a ground bar in outside your shed and ground your metal junction boxes.
That startup draw is serious on the table saw. Its quality level combined with motor size and that’s a hard thing to balance to get anything without heavy startup. Limiting even on grid power unless you’ve done some changes to make shop power. Basic garage power vs tiny upgrades make a huge difference.
Pretty much most electric motors have an inrush current of 6 times its full load current. Also depends on how many poles and type of motor. Today for instance i had to run a 55kw 2 pole and a 55kw 4 pole motor. Start up current for the 2 pole was 287amps and the 4 pole was 190amps. The faster the motor the less torque so it takes more power to get the rotor turning
@@SoHighIFly I’ve always assumed a circuit and/or combined with a start capacitor can smooth it out. Or simple a soft start feature the more upper range tools have. I expect a ridiculous startup draw for a 12” miter saw just because of the physics. I am not sure how the cost/quality and application of motors works out. Like if you want a lighter motor because it’s a semi-portable tool but it needs to have so many amps and since it can’t compensate it just has to have enough power to go though. Seems the way is always brute motors.
In. General, I like them video and idea of getting off grid with green electricity (neglecting the resourced the production of all of this used). However, not sure how many people might get down to reality when they see that the rough spend (w/o conduits, cables, etc.) is $4.5k. Not sure how much a kWh in your place costs, but you can by a lot of kWh for this. Those equipment need to get way (!!!!) cheaper, before it will have a significant positive impact overall. Just my 2 cents.
This looks like a sweet setup. I have been contemplating solar for my shed for a while.
'Goal zero are not sponsoring - so you will get an honest review' - does that mean all your other reviews are BS?
The sponsored reviews usually are BS. You usually have a list of things you have to say about the product and a list of what you cant talk about.
What do you think?
12:42 "GOAL ZERO is not sponsoring this video"
Title says: "MODERN BUILDS x GOAL ZERO"
Description is fitted with tracking link to their site and GOAL ZERO is mentioned 3 times in the first 3 sentences.
I'm no geologist but I feel as though this was sponsored.
I'm guessing the 'video' isn't sponsored but he got a free system out of it and was paid for the Goal Zero video. So, yes, 'not sponsored' is a bit of we stretch.
I think he just got the stuff for free, which is in itself almost $5000. If they haven't paid him to make this video or have a contact that he has to even mention the product, I don't think he has to disclose it as a sponsorship. But as he likes to get more free stuff he does it anyway.
@@nils1953 typically these "not sponsored" videos comes with a list of rules the end user has to follow in order to keep the system instead of just "borrow for video". I just wish he would have clarified because it seems a bit shady.
@@Reidbit that could very well be. I remember a video of mathias Wandel where he got tools from dewalt with no strings attached. He didn't even make videos about them because he disliked the product.
But as Mike asked goal zero for their products I am sure there must have been some sort of contract.
A lot of times you tubers will have a “sponsored video” and that differs from that they consider a “free product” or “brand deal”. So yes, he got a free product and got a brand deal of sorts, but the specific video had a different sponsor. But at the end of the day, money is money. Doesn’t really matter what label you put on it. GZ got a lot of value out of it because they didn’t have to pay an actor to do a photo shoot and got a real world example. It’s a win win for both of them. While our attention is monetized. That’s the game. Would have been cool to make it a win/win/win and give a second goal zero away to the community.
Very clever! Thank you for a great video!
Looks great!
Keep it up, really enjoy your videos🙌
Cool setup. Good points made by other commenter. With 1.6m subscribers I'd imagine the checks are getting nice. Maybe it's time to upgrade your table saw.
Nice job! I'm all for DIY electrical, cause you can get exactly what you want and its not that hard. Only suggestion I have is to move the switch down a new run of conduit to the other side of the door. Since you have it on the hinge side, it may be tricky to walk in (when its dark) and have to close the door to get to the light switch, rather than reaching just inside on the open side and turning it on.
The white and black wires are never tied to the ground wire! Bad! Very bad! Please know code it’s life saving!
@@cattigereyes1 I agree, that's a quick way to short out your entire electrical run, the moment someone tries to do anything else to the system. I'm not sure why you posted this as a reply to my suggestion, as I only suggested moving the switch to the other side of the door. However I will agree that standards should be followed, white neutral, black hot, bare copper/green ground.
Electrical apprentice here:
You are using the wrong tool to cut conduit. That pipe cutter guy is for plumbing, and it leaves a sharp edge on the inside lip of the pipe.
That sharp edge can then damage the insulation on the wires as you pull them through.
The correct tool would be a hacksaw or Portaband.
Doesn’t matter what you use to cut it, just make sure you ALWAYS debur conduit.
Glad I'm not the only one that cringed at this install 😬
@@dlax141 I agree that you always deburr, but if you use one of those plumber things and then use a conduit reamer or a set of linesmans (instead of like, a file), you could end up folding the burr over and making the problem even worse
Should debur no matter what cutting tool is used.
Pretty much everything electrical in this video made me cringe. (Fellow apprentice here)
A kind and friendly advice , try to work on the volume of talking and sound , its a bit to loud and its not needed. Best regards. Love the contents. 👏🏻👍🏻
..that lens up there hit all my OCD nightmares....
When you say ‘reached out to’ do you mean you asked them if they would give you their products in exchange for promotion, and for the sake of convenience and transparency, could you (next time) please state at the beginning of the video the approximate dollar value of the products they supplied? Then we know whether to continue watching the video because of the affordability of the products you were given for free.
He said at the end of the video that they did not sponsor this episode. I'm not sure if that means he necessarily paid full price for them though so I agree that a dollar amount would be helpful!
@@madsenbaum I don’t know about you, but at the start a caption appeared that said ‘Includes paid promotion’ or some such. I was confused then when Squarespace was named as the sponsor. I would like to know what he gets and the monetary value etc.
Links are in the description if you want to know costs. Quoting prices is useless with the global youtube audience.
@@tyrelirwin it would be simple to put an overall figure up front to within say the nearest $200 and most people with genuine interest could come up with a conversion figure. I don’t want to have to dig down and click on multiple links, I want a ballpark figure but I suspect, judging from the comments from people who are familiar with pricing, that potential viewers might be put off watching the rest of the video if they have a good suspicion they won’t be able to afford the product and emulate what they are seeing. Thanks.
@@tyrelirwin He could at least say the full retail cost to him, that would be plenty for anyone watching this to immediately forget about buying it for themselves. That stuff is crazy expensive! Unless you are running totally off grid, you're better off tying your shed into you primary home power. And even if you need solar, there are much cheaper options.
Jesus Christ those goal zero batteries are overpriced as hell. $500 for a 100Ah 12v battery, that's just nuts.
Those youtube sponsorings are not cheap pls halp
you mean $1500
$1,300 fpr the Yeti 1000X, $2,000 for the 4 battery expansion, $1,000 for the 4 solar panels, and $300 for the solar charge controller. Call it 5 grand for the whole setup, including the GoalZero stuff, the lights, wire, conduit and junction/outlet boxes.
The relevant spec on the 1000X is this: 120V AC Inverter: 120VAC 60Hz, 12.5A (1500W, 3000W surge) (output, pure sine wave)
Yeah, you will always pay a huge premium for pre packaged stuff like this.
For the same ammount he would have had atleast twice the power (probably 3 times) if he went with Batlleborn batterys, victonic chargecontroller/inverter and any generic brand solar panes, and then it would have no upper limit for expansion either.
WOW! So cool job!
Great video and I like the solar. One thing though, you say they didn’t sponsor the video yet they were there videoing while you installed it??
Yeah weird right? What does he get out of letting them film him?? Maybe they didn't pay for the product, but instead are paying him to do a project shoot for them? Either way he's getting something out of using their product, so a little deceptive. Can't imagine he's doing a shoot for them for nothing in return.
Your boxes need to be grounded. If there's a short caused by the sharp edges that are sure to be in the pipe from using a copper pipe cutter, you will be shocked if it doesn't trip a breaker. All you need to do is hit up a hardware store, pick up some ground tails (Or just the screws if you can find them) and just have it connected to the ground wire and the box in some way. We normally wire all the grounds together and pigtail off of them to the plug.
Was looking forward to a new video!
Great work! Seen all episodes about your work shop. At the start it looks like no chance to be, and now it like the perfectly 💯👍
This is pretty sweet dude. Might be just about perfect for my shed.
Do not use goal zero. Just get a point zero titan. Look up the reviews by willprowse. So much more for your money.
Comment because an awesome video and get that algorithm in check
Add a low wind station and never run out of power.
Impressive. Great job 👏
oh man, that lens on the top shelf has me NERVOUS!
WHOA these things are expensive! Love this setup and design though, great work!
Yes
Ryan Reynolds is into everything these days.
goalzero didn’t sponsor, but you “reached out” and thanked them.. so…. Okaaayyyyy
Nice, I’ve been an owner of Goal Zero products for over 3 years…it is a great company! ⚡️
SICK !
Love the clean and modern ;) look of that setup!
very very nice over all. But I think you should have also used the conduit on the roof, I am not sure the wires leading to the solar panels can hold up against the elements
Each of those expansion batteries they sell for $500. They have a 100ah AGM battery. So in other words that is really only 50ah. That they put a pretty case around and are selling for $500. Hahaha. I have not seen people get ripped off more then this. Shame on you Goal Zero.. wow
Honestly. I couldnt believe they were actually lead acid. It's a scam.
@@AdmitthatijustdiditX well that size , surely not lithium lol. can buy lithium for that price
Ya.. Will Prowse makes gud solar n battery diy kinda vids
He released a new vid of Chinese B grade lifepo batteries cheaper than lead acid recently
@@dylan-nguyen he better make all those connection better. adding battery not gonna mean his circuit is better
In Germany we call this classic American Pfuschelektrik
As a Dutch person, I get what you mean!
That's sketchy, get some Wago clamps dude
Maybe a strange question, but why are metal pipes always used in America for electricity? this while the rest of the world uses plastic. If a mistake is made, the entire system is not immediately electrified.
Love your videos
Liked the vid 👍 and amazing work bro
thanks, this is giving me ideas
Great work! Why isn't this in the shed playlist?
Definitely wouldn't keep that lens up there like it is in the video, looks like a recipe for disaster! Awesome setup though!
1:52 really good idea
Pipe cutter leaves the inside edge of the pipe/conduit with a burr on it? Seems dangerous to put electrical wires through it 🤔🤔
Deburring tools aren't that expensive and don't take that long to do idk why people don't do it for at least a peace of mind
also no connctor going into the light fixture, it was just pipe not secured
At 7:30 super pro 😂😂
Really looking forward to your feedback on Gold Zero kit.
Why? Only to be lied to if they pay him.....
"And hopefully, make more videos (MONEY)!" hahaha
you're gonna kill that inverter with that table saw
At 5:55, did I just hear correctly? That you are putting the single switch that controls the sockets (outlets) at the BATTERY end of the cable run? And not at the outlet itself?? How would someone know that the socket outlet is hot, if they didn’t know to check at the battery pack end? Why not have switches on the outlets themselves, ok yes like we have in the UK, so that there is a safety switch with a visual indication whether the outlet is live? (assuming it’s been wired correctly of course)
probably because this is more standard in america, basically just think of every outlet is always live here, although sometimes we do have switched outlets (for lamps to be controlled at entry ways), but other than that you dont really see switched outlets here, and as he said with the switch off, all outlets are off except at the switch itself for chargers. and also you can just label the switches (had to in my home as every switch was basically backwards, switch on right controlled stuff to my left, switch on left controlled stuff to my right)
@@jjjacer thanks for the explanation from that side
maybe just me but I think it make more sense to go with the yeti 6000x than the 1000x and a bunch of extra batteries, I know it would be more expensive but you just have the one unit and a cupple extra hundred watts of power. it would be a simpler setup and that is just how I would have done it.
Journeyman electrician here. As it is, your grounding system isn't doing much to protect this installation because you need to bond each J-box with a small whip of green wire of either kind (or uninsulated solid) and screw it to the box, then splice that into the continuous green loop running throughout. Also, to meet the Code, you'll need to support your conduit within one to three feet of every connector, and every ten feet after that with pipe straps. Plus you'll need to use connectors on your lights rather than run the conduit straight inside. Last thing, a scoring cutter doesn't ream the inside of the conduit and can damage the wire insulation during a pull. You'll want to smooth out the insides of your conduits after each cut with a pair of channel locks or pliers.
Serious question, why did he cut the wires on that j-box on the top right and then spliced them back together?
@@W00lveR1ne It's not a totally uncommon practice. The ground should be spliced with its pigtail at each box, but the rest don't have to be. Usually a 'service loop' is left in each pull point for later use with the conductors remaining continuous. Making unnecessary splices can add a bit of impedance to the circuit, build up heat, and potentially weaken conductivity. That said, splicing the current carrying conductors at each pull point makes servicing them easier down the line if he needs to isolate and repair part of the system, or decides to expand with receptacles in those boxes.
I think you can bypass the portable power station since you have so many batteries! Then you could simply use a normal inverter
So clever, Mr Modern Builds. Look foreward to more great vids. "Who's that guy who invented the light bulb???"
💖💖💖💖💖 ‼ AUTHENTIC ‼ 👍🏻👍🏻
The most impressive thing is you do all this work in jeans. I’m sweating just watching. 👍
Amazing Build. I would just change the LEDs for a direct DC conection to the goal zero, you are wasting energy converting DC to AC in the goal zero unit, and then AC to DC in the ballast in the LED lamps. Anyway, great video!
I'm just buy some linkable plug-in lights and save a lot of time with wiring plus have lighting that's easier to change. If he really paid for the Goal Zero equipment, money is clearly no object for him to pay a little more for linkable plug-in lights.
I totally need this!!
Great job!
Should have went with the point zero titan solar system. Same price you could have had 13kWh. Goal zero is grossly overpriced for what they offer.
When you have over a million subscribers nothing is over priced
Killer!
Content creators allowing companies to buy them off and give out one sided reviews just because it's a sponsor is a dishonest stance. You should always stay true to your viewers and give out honest reviews of a product, because if the product doesn't work, you as a content creator will have your credibility questioned, lose viewers, and the company you sponsored will still make money off of your channel and review. Always stay transparent and don't be afraid to draw a clear line of boundaries against any company that will sponsor you.
Don't really know about the goal zero yeti, but one concern is that you don't have any breakers on the system. That could be very dangerous with the tools you use.
He said the Yeti essentially works as a breaker, but I would look more into that.
It's been a couple of months since I saw your videos but you look slimmer
😮
Meanwhile this pandemic made me gain weight
😰
Why not do the ruff in electrical after the insulation rather than bending pipe all day?
And also what’s causing your lights when you turn on your table saw is the start up current on your table is high thus pulling more for a split sec