Saw your $100 solar set up video and challenged my son to see what we could do... Now we are running dual LiFePO4 in parallel and bought a power bank like this video's to share the power around the house. Now all our phones, laptops, batteries, and even a rechargeable hand held vacuum run on solar power. Keep up the good content.
Yep... charge controller and batteries stays put. And the power bank can charge phones/gear at the other end of the house. Even used it to charge a car battery.
@@Texdc2003 Didn't do it for the power savings as it was a learning project, but a little math - using approx 120wh/day x 30 days = 3.6kwh x $0.139/kwh = about 50 cents a month
Looked around comments for this! I studied basics of electrical engineering in high school even though I went for becoming computer technician. I had to refresh my memory a little bit thus i decided to comment. There is many reasons why load devices experience surge in current and or voltage: 1. inrush current, 2. Transient phenomena in electric circuits, 3. capacitor charging, 4.Transitional mode in switches. I'm not gonna explain all of them, but check it out! When turning on a blender motor, there's an initial surge in current, known as inrush current. This happens because the motor needs extra power to overcome inertia and start rotating. As an inductive load, the motor initially resists current flow, causing a temporary spike. Additionally, capacitors in the motor circuit may draw more current during startup, and mechanical load (if the blender is loaded) increases the initial power demand. Once the motor reaches full speed, the current stabilizes.
The boost's waveform can also be a little funky. I remember Mattias Wandel was testing one with power tools, and he ended up killing a Kill-A-Watt with a backup unit that EcoFlow sent him. That is my guess as to what caused the error code for the blender.
X boost is a way of running devices that are above the rated wattage of the inverter. The Inverter does this by lowering the AC output voltage in order to keep the device from drawing too much power, but only works up to a certain power level. You should never use X boost to run anything other than basic resistive loads like toasters, heating elements, hair dryers, and coffee makers that aren't digital. Running X boost with digital devices can cause damage from the lower input voltage.
When you charge the battery up to 100% the first time it takes forever because it's calibrating the battery. That's why it stayed around 90-95% for so long.
Negatory, calibration of individual cells is done at the cell factory before being sold, the process is called forming. When cells are in a pack, that is cell balancing that the BMS will do according to each product implementation, often when charged to 100%.
When it says 100% charged, are the batteries actually only charged to 80% so u get more charge/discharge cycles, longer battery life? Or would you need to change only to 80% & down to 30% to get the most lifespan?
I got the river max for $220 and i love it. 576Wh, 3 600w plugs, can do up to 220w solar input. Just need to get a couple panels. Used it to run my fridge for a few hours during a power outage and it still had over an hour of charge left when the power came on. Great video!
If that's the River 2 Max you're talking about, even better than the higher maximum MPPT wattage is being able to use panels with a Voc up to 50V, that is, residential panels. You can get a 440W panel for under 100 bucks and have enough overpanelling for most cloudy (white clouds) days.
Imagine buying a used gas generator for $200-250 and being able to run your fridge damn near indefinitely given how little load they actually pull with the cheap cost of gas. Instead you bought something that works for a few hours at best. Without batteries 5-10x larger, these are glorified phone chargers.
Anything under 1,000wh I consider a gadget charger. I got an Anker C300DC for the sole purpose of charging phone, earbuds, radio, flashlights, that's it. But it is useful to have one unless somebody can see it as reasonable to fire up the genny to charge a phone. I don't. I can charge my phone multiple times with the Anker. Enough so that it should have ample time to get recharged even if using only solar. I consider solar along in its tech enough now that I view things like phones, etc. as being grid-independent.@jeffdeezy
I have several different setups of solar panels, li batteries, chargers, inverters, etc, and the glorified "solar generator". People don't understand these items are useless in a long term power blackout. A 500 wh setup can only power a standard refrigerator for about 2 hours. Before needing recharging. You need something to run for a few days, get a small gas or propane generator.
@@jeffdeezy we used to have a gas generator, wasn't cheap. we live in FL. with all the neighbors cranking up their generators, it was very noisy. now that we have an EV, i'm waiting for bi directional software update so we can use our EV as a whole house backup battery. when that happens, we will install off grid panels just to charge the EV while it powers certain appliances.
I have the original EcoFlow Max. I first plugged it into the wall and after charging, plugged the refrigerator into the Max. The Max died after one month. I called EcoFlow and they said it could not be used as a UPS permanently. They sent me a new unit. The second one died after a couple of month while leaving it plugged it with nothing plugged into the Max. Called EcoFlow and they told me you can't leave it plugged in all the time. They sent me a new unit. So now after it's charged I unplug it and only use it during power outages. Disappointed.
IF it can not be plugged in to Solar Paneĺ and Powering Home Refridgerator for 3 or 4 months Then it is Not much Good in Western North Carolina where power Company still cannot Provide Power
Well yeah… that’s not how they’re intended to be used. Battery banks are different than battery backup. You also aren’t supposed to leave your phone or laptop plugged in 24/7 because it’ll ruin the battery. That’s pretty common knowledge
Before seeing your video, I didn’t think I could afford a solar generator. Thank you for the detailed info from unboxing and setup to testing voltage and capacity, addressing assumptions, and reassuring those of us nervous about electricity!
Check roof top installations and solar rebates mate. For 4x the price of this dinky thing you can get a proper solar setup on your roof top. This is peak first world nonsense pretending $250 for a single tiny disposable Chinese solar panel is "cheap". You can get all this stuff for $30 on MIC or AliX.
@@bashkillszombies I compared prices on Amazon vs. AliExpress, and Amazon is actually cheaper! Also, your tip only works for those with their own roof and significant upfront cash, especially since tax credits have decreased. This channel provided product links, tested them, and showed us how to set them up. Your criticism didn’t add much value.
The Aroma 4-cup rice cooker uses about 220 watts on high and 50 watts on low. A Dash Mini Griddle uses about 320 to 350 watts. Always use USB powered lights, fans, battery chargers etc in emergencies instead of the less efficient AC outlets to power these unless it`s during the day when the sun covers it.
My shed has a sub $100 system. It's a used UPS with an diy 4s 25AH LFP battery, about a $3 protection board with low and high voltage shut-off, and a solar charge controller for 12 bucks. The panel was from FB marketplace and was used. It's 340w and massive overkill but I'm happy, it was only $30.
I have a 7s battery and have 3x 100 watt panels, but haven't found a good charge option nor a good bms. What and where for the battery protection and charge controller?
Ecoflow says you can overpanel these slightly, but you can safely overpanel them a bunch more to get closer to maxing out the MPPT in these. I've run two theoretically 100W panels in parallel, each capable of 80W on a good day, to get approximately 100W on a relatively average sunny day, and over 50W on a white clouds day.
If you have the right location, you could try two panels facing in slightly different directions, SW and SE in the northern hemisphere or NW and NE if you live in the upside down hemisphere. That way you don't have both panels producing maximum power at the same time, but you get a lot more electricity during the whole day.
For $500 you can most likely Buy a EcoFlow Delta 2 and the cheap solar panel on Black Friday or Cyber Monday. EcoFlow’s 200W bi facial solar panel will charge it faster though.
@@kal7049 I'd rather not him encourage people to waste money on foldable or ''Ecoflow'' rigid panel. They both are way overprice by a lot compared to market. Ecoflow do good powerstation... solar panel they just slap their brand on 3rd party stuff and make people pay a premium for no reason.
It's literally showing u nothing more than any ohms law / power equation will already tell you. Basic math. Watts = amps × volts Amps = watts ÷ volts Volts = watts ÷ amps Keep in mind the powerstation is a 12v system with an inverter to change is from DC 12v to AC 115 volts. 300 watt @ 12v is around 25 amp hours. That's why doing the math on the back info sticker of the products you want to power will tell you if it will work. High amp loads will not work on a small unit like this at all or for very long.
@@moussaniang4445you better know basic electrical math if you wana power things with any portable powerstation. I gave you the tools now get out there and educate yourself. You can do it. The watts rating is based on one hour of use. So it can power 300 watts continuously for approx 1 hour. Every information sticker on your electric device will tell you the wattage. If it's 150 it will run in for 2 hours. All simple math.
Your setup is a great way to be introduced to what solar power can do. If I was serious about Solar Power, I would start with something more expensive and designed to be expanded. I also wouldn't rely on tying into the commercial grid and expecting to save much money. States and so-called public grids can make you go broke using solar as they seem to be changing their policies on a daily bases. Then there are these Fly-by-night solar installation companies. If you install panels on your roof, you better be ready for expensive repairs when the roof starts leaking.
Thank you for this!! I made the mistake of purchasing a small 300 watt inverter for $60 thinking I was getting a great deal, but not realizing how much energy it talked to brew a single cup of coffee. But after figuring out how to do the math to meet my needs, I was able to purchase a 600 watt (w/1200 watt surge) power station for the price of a 300 watt station on sale, and it performed remarkably well during our most recent power outage. The World needs more people like you to educate the rest of us who simply weren’t born with this knowledge. 😇
Found out that if you have a blended approach, you will get better results. I have an 12volt solar backup lighting system inside for emergency reasons, with a wood burning cook stove for heat. With a basic power converter, I can charge up all of my battery-operated tools and keep working. The 12-volt lighting is good for up to 48-72 hours with full charge. This allows plenty of charge to also charge 2 batteries at a time. Charging was done during daytime and even with adverse weather and the lights worked full time.
Keep going! Let's try $400, $500 etc. This video was really good! I had no idea how well the power station performed. Great video. Loved it all. Well presented, Alex!
7:20 Fun fact about modern batteries: they charge slower as they near full capacity. This is partly due to increased internal resistance at higher charge levels, which makes it harder to move electrons back in. This process creates a bit of internal pressure and helps protect the battery from damage, ultimately extending its lifespan. Rapid charging, especially with excess heat, can also lead to the formation of dendrites-tiny structures that obstruct electron flow. You might be familiar with this if you have an older phone that dies quickly or no longer charges to 100%.
07:00 "Don’t understand why it slows charging at 95%" All batteries meet exponentially slower charging rates as you reach capacity. Every elecron potential you add is pushing against a pool filled with repulsion negative charges. The more full of electrons the pool is, the less they want more electrons. TLDR more resistance at the end, like shoving passengers into a crowded Japanese speed train. The last few stragglers need the most pushing 😂 ,
We bought the biggest solar generator Ecoflow offered. It worked great for hurricane Helene. It powered my refrigerator for 12 hours. In fact, we had 30% charge left when power came back. I charged it up, then brought it to our son. He used it for two days. It kept his refrigerator and CPAP machine running.
you should release the video from 100 dollar even if it failed. it should highlight the dangers of buying cheap power banks/generator setups or throw some shade on some of the manufacturers
Just wanted to point out, some devices will REQUIRE a ground connection. Thats why the blender was giving errors, there are tools to get around and trick the devices into thinking there is a ground
Or you could just ground it - either by plugging it into a wall socket, even when there's a power outage the ground is still there OR if you're in the wilderness by connecting it to a wire and a rod stuck deep into the... you've guessed it, ground - hence the name. BTW the solar panel should be grounded as well - safety with high voltage is no joke. You want any excessive current to go to ground, preferably not through your body.
The inrush currents on motors like that blender can spike like crazy. The ecoflow is probably killing it before it starts- giving the blender error. Also even a single leaf can kill the amperage off a solar panel so even though the voltage will remain consistent, the wattage wont pick up. Also for inductive loads like the hair drier, Xboost will lower the voltage safely to maintain current so you can use high mode if you want.
Best intro video to solar and power stations for buyers ever. You even identify best brands and buying strategy. Very educational for a guy who watches a lot of these videos. Only addendum would be if car fast charger will work with this, I.e. from bluetti, pecron or ecoflow.
This is the most comprehensive, set up, and use of power stations. So informative and helpful. I am a first time buyer. And This vid helped immensely. Big props. Thank you
That last 1% seems to take forever, no matter which solar charger. I have three different sized Jackery units - the Explorer 500, 1500 and 2000v2. Love them all, and they have different applications. The 500 gets the most use, recharging phones, lights, power banks, ad infinitum! Thanks for the video! 👍
Lithium-Ion batteries need to be charged in a way which reduces the amperage over the last 10% of the charge, until the charge current reaches 10% of the full charge current at which time charging should end. I'm suspecting that, instead of gradually reducing the amperage as the specifications for charging Li-Ion cells say to do, these chargers instantly reduce the charge current to 10% once the charge state reaches 90%, which would greatly increase the time taken for the last 10% charge to finish.
@@melkiorwiseman5234 That sounds reasonable. I'm just in the early stages of converting all my lead-acid deep cycle batteries with LiFePO4 powerbanks and batteries.
@13:45 that is inrush current spike. motors and capacitors typically have a sky-high momentary start-up current (several times the normal running wattage) that only lasts a tiny duration which won't show up on a meter unless it's designed to capture that brief inrush maximum specifically.
Came to add the above. Starting loads on motors etc is a different animal. As above stated you need a inrush capable meter to capture the LRA locked rotor amps of the device.
I got a delta 2 from a sweepstakes. Very good power station. It can run a vacuum cleaner without issues and charges in under 2 hours for 1kwH. The quirk of not reporting the AC usage was something I observed myself.
Thx for doing this on a smaller power station. Seems like everyone is doing videos on newer 2000+ power stations. I would be interested in a test of something between 500 & 1000. I’m thinking 100w is kind of the lower level minimum standard. I have a 5 year old folding 60w panel that basically covers my vehicle’s windshield. It takes forever to recharge a 300 power station, but it works. I’m thinking a 1000 power station would cover our needs, but wonder if we could get by on a 800 one that Echoflow or Bluetti make.
@@karinhart489 welcome 😁 It all based on weather conditions, places like Spain, especially South are highly effective for solar. Most of the price goes to batteries anyway. There is a channel called: cleaver solar by Nick. He explains everything in a simple way. Solar panels are good and affordable, but storage is still expensive. Best use case scenario is air conditioning in hotter climates: hot=sun up Best Regards
My old Bluetti EB70 (original 700w one, first batch released) runs my small 5 cubic ft chest freezer for 24 hours on a full charge. Same with my 3.2 cubic ft dorm fridge. It`s great for most simple rice cookers too....even a larger 4 quart (aprox) large one. I think my big rice cooker uses 350w.
Thanks, this was a good video. You chose a high-quality budget setup that would be a good portable solution for emergencies. It's small enough to be packed into a car if you need to bug out or camp out and powerful enough for the bare essentials such as lighting or even a small fan plus keeping communication devices charged.
The start-up amps of the blender motor under load, water equals load, can be 3-5 times the running load amps. This is typical of most electric motor drive systems not equipped with a soft start. These reduce start-up amps by increasing time to full running rpm. That is an oversimplification, but suffice it to say, it works. Good video. Thank you.
@@neepsmcfly4176 This is my 2nd time writing this maybe they don't want ppl knowing idk. I used 2 100watt solar panels. 1 mppt solar controller, 2 12v 100ah 1280watt 2x(2560watt) lifepo4 lithium batteries. And 2 30am fuses. And a voltmeter only a few bucks. I ran the batteries in series. Maybe add a battery equilizer
Would love to see a $1,000 budget. If you need $1,200 to make a much bigger splash do it.. what would it take to run a fridge, fan, lamp and TV for 48 hours during sunny days.
Dang, we have come so far in so little time. I put together my own monocrystalline solar setup in an apartment 12yrs ago: marine batteries where I calculated wire length to the cm to ensure even charge/discharge, pure sine wave inverter, MPPT controller which powered my xbox 360 and ~55" flatscreen, cell phone charger, ipad charger. So so so much more expensive.
12:03 Any appliance with a build-in electric motor will cause an inrush current pick. The fridge would also overload the tiny River II, my mini freezer can't be run (start the compressor motor) on the River II when I tested it. On this video it was only powering the lights inside the fridge.
Bluetti EB3A is what I purchased it will output 600 watts and has all the same features except usb c input charging. Also has Power Lift to run higher wattage resistive loads. It's $200 usd.
Great job!! As time goes on the price of these setups become more affordable. I have a 700 watt system that cost me double of what you paid two years ago. This works as more ppl can afford them and provide some small measure of security.
thank you for helping the community understand this stuff! good job! remember keep the box (batteries) in the shade, nice n cool ! SOLAR panel in the SUN and batteries cool
Your channel inspired me to buy an Ecoflow Delta 3 Plus and two 195W bi-facial solar panels from EcoWorthy (the back side is rated for 29W). I just got the panels today and am waiting for the Delta 3 Plus, the solar extension cables, and the adapter cable (mistakenly bought the XT60, not XT60i version, which may only bring in 8 amps, instead of the full 15amps). I need to do some testing once everything gets set up. Loved your video about bi-facial panels and am using an insulative material that is reflective, with a bunch of small circular bumps on them to capture as much light as I can for the back of the panels. My biggest concern is the 60V limit on the solar connections (2 of them). I want to eventually get 3 panels on each connection to max out the 500W per connection, but the 60V limit and 15A limit are both constrictive if I tried to setup 3 panels on either port. So, I'm just sticking with 2 on each port (once I can buy the second set of panels and mounts). If you have any advice regarding managing the Voltage incoming from 3 panels in my type of setup, please let me know.
A genuine real world test without a lot of science. Your video told me a lot about some issues that I need to know. My remaining question is about northern Indiana winter sun. We may go for days without sunshine. Will overcast daylight charge the battery enough to run my fridge for a half hour several times a day? I don't expect you to try to emulate my situation. You've given me enough usable information to get started and I thank you.
You can add solar panels in parallel to increase charge capacity. It's an expensive solution since you'll generally need 4-6 times the panels as you'd need in full sun, but it will work. The only problem is ensuring that the charging circuit doesn't attempt to pass the full current from the panels in full sun, but I'd assume that any good charger will have current limiting built in (I hope they do, anyway).
In that climate, most winter nights will get down to 25deg. F.. If you know someone who gets shipments of insulin or other refrigerated medical supplies, have them save the plastic bags of frozen liquid that are used as cooling for shipment. Lay these outside at night and bring them into your ref. in the morning. I keep some in my freezer, ready to go if I need to keep something cool. ( pop, food ETC.)
The blender looked like it peaked at 500ish watts for a split second when starting. This is called inrush current when an electric motor is just starting. This is why lots of battery stations have a surge rating, as for a fraction of a second, many appliances will use well over their running current. AC compressors for example could guzzle down as much as double their running power when they turn on, but only for a few ms. Breakers are even designed around this as they have a delay that won't trip in that short of time for this exact reason.
Batteries charge way faster when it’s empty, Elon explained why you should charge Tesla all the way, An example is like an empty parking lot and a whole lot of cars are look for parking, in the beginning it’s easy and gets filled up but as the parking lot lot gets full it gets harder to find a parking spot, same with battery charge I heard to get from 99 to 100% will take you around the same time as 1-70%, hence why you should just charge it up to 80-90% and then use anything with batteries
X Boost is a smart workaround that performs particularly well in countries with a 220V power supply. It lowers the voltage to reduce power consumption, ensuring the load stays within the power station’s maximum capacity. At 220V, the system reduces voltage to 110V, which is enough to keep most devices operational, albeit at lower speeds and reduced power. In contrast, in the USA, where the standard voltage is 110V, dropping it to 55V often causes devices to shut down rather than continue functioning.
That depends on the device. Some run less efficiently at lower voltages (more power loss across the rectifiers and line loss, e.g. computer power supplies). Could burnout devices that will just draw more power and run hotter (e.g. motors, which is why you shouldn't run your compressor off an extension cord!). But would work on purely resistive devices. Would work better as a strategy if they reduced frequency instead (but for motors only).
I love the mix of technical and practical. So many of these videos online dont compare to your super simple approach of... this is what you can plug into it and how long it will last. Great job. Forever thankful subscriber.
Depends on your CPAP. Mine with heat and humidifier pulls around 75w / 6 amps. Without that it goes all over between 7-15 watts. I run this CPAP off a 24k power bank (88whr) for a full night and I've done so on a plane before. So this power station could power my CPAP for a week. It all depends on your make, model and settings
The powerdraw depends on how hard it's running and how hard the humidifier does. Amazon sells $5 power monitoring plugs which will answer your question.
Great to come across this. Nice to see someone testing various loads. I picked up the Ecoflow River2 back before September. I also picked up a 100-watt panel from Harbor Freight because it was easier to take along than the 4-panel 100-watt kit I already had. I used the River2 from a full charge to run an amateur radio in the field pretty much all day during the last Texas QSO Party in September. Still need to play around with the solar panel to get an idea about charging. I wish there was a 12-volt post-type connection that had a higher amperage than the power socket. Many amateur radios can draw a good bit higher amperage when transmitting. I found it ironic that during that amateur radio field setup, I had brought a generator that everyone else used, but I ran my rig on the Ecoflow River2.
I bought a 99$ 300w power Bank with all kinds of features off of Amazon. I've had it for almost two years and I bought a 30w portable folding solor panel as well. So far I haven't had any issues with it and I use it for all sorts of things. Never thought about plugging my fridge in to see if it works
What did you run for a week? A 2KW gas generator can run a window AC, refrigerator, a large TV and all other electronics. Also, we did not have sun for 2 days and had very strong wind.
@@foilcap I went thru Helene with exactly that setup and gear. I would also like to know the answer to your question. I live very near Asheville, where we STILL don't have potable water, (though that's irrelevant here).
@@EngineerBear-cp5cl We have a deep artesian well so water comes out even without power. But I am considering a second 2KW generator just for the well pump. I was researching battery generator for the well - so that I could put it in the garage next to the pump - but they don't seem to be reliable enough and people still run gas generators to keep batteries charged. For my own house I'd get a 4-5 KW Honda quiet inverter connected to a transfer switch.
I have an Ecoflow River 2 (different model from the looks of it, the outlets are on the side and I have 3 AC Outlets) I power --- Ubiquti Dream Machine, a 24 port POE switch, a 10gig 5 port switch, my modem, my security cameras, Network Accessed Storage, and a NUC 13 on it with pass through. I've had two power outages, both times I've been able to continue to use the network, shut down the NAS properly, properly shut down the servers running on the NUC 13 and the NUC itself. Then run the POE switch/UDM to continue gathering footage on my security cameras (which are Power over Ethernet) during the outages for about 2 hours. Since I got this, I've got 13kw of solar panels installed on a grid tied ground mount, which happily offsets my electric bill by roughly half (I have a lot of tech in my home and my power bill was reflecting that lol) Either way I actually started all this because I got an Eco Flow setup from amazon for roughly $500. Included in it was two 100 watt solar panels (Probably two of the ones you have), a 1000watt inverter, a little charge controller, and 2 small batteries. I have this setup to power lights in a shipping container, and any tools I happen to plugin out there to use such as a shop vac, chargers for my tools, a grinder, etc. Which may sound like it was a lot of money but when you consider the cost of running power to another building just to have access to those things occasionally when you use it, it was actually about the same price and it doesn't contribute to my already out of control power bill.
I have this same unit and a 250w foldable solar pannel. When powering a tv if you turn down the back light of the tv and turn up the brightness to make up for it you can get it to run pulling less wattage so it can run longer. Ecoflow do have a surchage option that will still power up devices over the rated wattage xboost.
Very cool project that I'm sure many people in FL and NC would be thankful for right now. And for only ~$250, makes it seem like a no brainer for "just in case". If someone wanted to start with this and expand/upgrade down the line, what would that look like? Since it's right up against the stated solar input is the only option to add battery storage? Also, I think $500 would be the next step to look at for solar generator setup.
Very good and PRACTICAL video. So many UA-cam video creators fail to consider cost as a factor in determining what type of system is "best" and instead of helping people prepare for power outages, they just leave viewers with a sense of hopelessness if they are not able to spend huge amounts....leading them to postpone making preparations until "someday" when they can afford the more costly and more powerful systems. Unfortunately, "someday" might not come before a power outage does and even a small system is better than nothing at all when the lights go out. Thank you for making this. 💯❤
You Folks in the US are SO lucky!! Here in Britain....the usual..."you CAN'T do THAT!...or the ever regular "we FORBID you to DO that..." prevails...besides, the SALES infrastructure is just not around! GOOD LUCK to YOU GUYS!!! well impressed!...& if you're in Arizona, Texas, Florida....WOW!!!
Air conditioner units use an enormous amount of electricity. What you need is a 12v DC DIY swamp cooler if you live in a low humidity area. Mine uses only 11amps DC, and can run for days.
The Aroma 4-cup rice cooker uses about 220 watts on high and 50 watts on low. A Dash Mini Griddle uses about 320 to 350 watts. Always use USB powered lights, fans, battery chargers etc in emergencies instead of the less efficient AC outlets to power these unless it`s during the day when the sun covers it.
Thank you! That is really helpful! Nice and clear and thorough. I have shared it with two people who may go in on it with me! Thank you for preparing everything and recording the process so well, and explaining things so beginners like me can understand. I wish you all good things.
solar "generator". wish people would push back against this marketing malarky. edit: watched vid all the way thru, and happy to hear him refer to "power station" (a nice band as well). good video.
Yes,they are basically batteries that store charge .They don’t generate anything they supply from what they receive in.Just middlemen really,but handy.
I mean, by definition the whole system together IS a generator. The box is just a battery, the panel is just a panel, but together the system generators electricity from sunlight, instead of converting potential energy into mechanical energy.
@@GoblinArmyInYourWalls you can "generate" that same energy by JUST ADDING THE PANEL to your existing system (assuming you already have battery/inverter, which most rv's do, and these systems are marketed directly to rv owners).
@@GoblinArmyInYourWalls by your definition, ANYTHING can be labeled a "solar generator", so long as it contains solar panels. in fact, come to think of it, the world contains solar panels, so is therefore a "solar generator". my rv generates power from a solar panel, and is therefore a "solar generator".
Subbed, I absolutely love that you aren’t just doing sponsored stuff and actually buy the stuff kinda like jerryrigeverything does. I have a battery bank I got on a deal with a solar panel and will be trying to power a room with it! Keep up the excellent work!
as someone with access to a River 2 and a Delta 2 I would 100% reccomend the Delta over the River for anything with even a moderate power usage. me and a buddy run a convention booth and between our POS (tablet, thermal printer and hotspot phone) we can kill a River 2 in under 12 hours unless we set the tablet or phone to power saving. The Delta 2 however will run that and more for between 42-52 hours . TL;DR The River just doesn't have the wh/h for medium term use and if you can afford it go with a Delta
Great video! EcoFlow is the way to go. I have a Delta 2 and it doesn’t show lower output information on the device screen but it is powering the devices.
Thank you for making this video. A simple set up like this would work for me during the summers and late spring/early autumn. I really should take a basic electrician's course so I can know this stuff. I think the next reasonable budget for a test project would be $500 USD.
A great test! I would however recommend everyone to not cheap out on the solar panel and chose one that is poly crystalline instead, since it is able to charge even when it's cloudy and I think they also are able to charge even if the panel is partially in shade, but I could be wrong about the latter. Maybe also consider buying two solar panels, that way you can connect them in a way that if one of the panels are partially shaded, it doesn't affect the other solar panels ability to charge. You need to remember that connecting them in either series or parallel also affect the amps and watts, so be sure it still works with the power bank you buy. The UA-camr Jasonoid also makes great tests and have put power banks/generators to hard tests, also regarding UPS uses. If you want to buy things for prep, an investment in a small portable cooler, just the one in the video is great to have. They are however pretty expensive, but you can usually power them in 3-4 ways. 12/24V or 230V (60hz) in Europe or 110V (50hz) for the Americas (if I'm not mistaking) and also sometimes even with gas. Naturally the gas function makes it way more expensive.
What's really important is longevity. How many cycles will that bank take before the charge capacity/retention starts decreasing? How long will that panel gather at peak efficiency?
With the disasters in Western NC and Florida a set up like this could have helped. Several friends of mine were without any power for 10 days or more. Just to be able to charge a phone would have made a difference. Could this setup power a well pump? Thanks for the info!
None of the solar generators I have seen advertised will power a well, was off grid for 12 years, tried solar, had 8 100 watt solar panels, 8 batteries, 4,500 watt trace inverter and battery management system, what they DON'T tell you about solar panels is you get much less power from them when cold, at -20F get ZERO measurable power and high temps degrade the panels shorting their life.
Yes but NOT with that small of a unit. You would generally want a larger power stations in the 1000W+ range. And as far as the well pump goes... that would depend on the well pump. A 2000W power station can generally run a 120VAC well pump without issue, you'd have to read the specs on the well pump. Larger well pumps might require 240VAC and an even beefier power station to run. For disasters / emergency backup these power stations are best augmented with a gasoline generator. The combination is really good though. With a power station big enough to run 12+ hours you would only need to run the generator once or twice a day to charge up the power station and can leave the generator off the rest of the time, resulting in a VAST savings in gasoline. Gasoline is precious in an emergency so its a big deal. And adding a bit of solar to that reduces generator use even more. So... again a really great combination to have a power station and solar even if you can't get rid of the generator.
Really thankful for this kind of helpful content! ❤ Its good to see that someone is making videos for the alternative power units most of us can actually afford!!!❤ GREAT JOB KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!.
I've used the River as a UPS for my computer for years. There are some caveats though. You can only charge to about 85% and have to put a load on it every few months. I usually run mine for an hour or so and draw it down to 50% before plugging it back in.
Seem like a great setup for the power out issue and keeping your food cold. You don't have to run the fridge 24/7 to keep it cold if you don't open it so this setup could probably run your fridge for weeks if it needed too. Maybe the only bummer is it is so small you are not running anything to cook with though. I would love to see what would be the bear min price to still be able to cook, keep the fridge cool (not at the same time) and keep your devices like phone powered if the power was out at your house for weeks at a time.
SVAKA CAST NA PRIKAZU OVOG VEOMA POUCNOG I KORISNOG VIDEA VEOMA BI MIZNACILO DA JOS JEDAN VIDEO URADITE SA UGRADNJOM SVIH KUCNIH UREDJAJA PREKO PANELA POGOTOVO SIJALICA U STANU VELIKO HVALA OD SRCA.MLOGO BI MI ZNACILA USTEDA FINANSIJA I SAME USTEDE STRUJE.
Thanks for the video and showing everyone the results of your tests. When you tried to overload it with the blender and hair dryer, it was really useful info, since it shows the real-world limits of these. Seeing how it ran all the convenience appliances was great, but running the fridge was the best info, because I hope if people loose power, they understand to keep the fridge cool, and not finish an episode of reality TV on Netflix. And what you showed was a budget build, and you can scale up accordingly. I recently got a larger Eco-flow battery pack, so it's nice to see what it can handle. Keep an eye on sales if you are in the market for one of these, because they do fluctuate in price.
One product earns commission underneath the title shows they have reason to lie to you about the product to get you to buy it so they earn commission😂😅😂 don't be so gullible😊 1:53
250 budget is perfect! Because that is what us poor people could realistically afford! Would love to see different setups at that price to see whats the BEST you can get for 250!❤
I never owned one but at thr risk of sounding even more stupid than I actually am, why do you need a solar panel when you already have a Solar Generator?
Oh you’re not stupid. The term “solar generator” is a misnomer, because it’s a battery. But a battery with a built in charge controller and inverter for AC. You still have to charge the unit, thus a solar panel, or a car plug, or a wall outlet. People get pretty militant about the term.
@@SchoolforHackers I was actually counting on posts like yours. ;)... thanks. This video did run a good and useful test and if it weren't for the way overpriced units and the deceptive claim of the name we'd probably be a little less militant.
@@SchoolforHackers It is not a misnomer, a battery is a generator, at least in the same sense as a gasoline generator. They both would be more accurately described as converters since they convert chemical energy into electrical energy. The way many people think of a battery is more like a capacitor.
It's obvious to me anyway, the suns rays are the gasoline, the panel is the generator using the fuel the sun omits and the battery is what it always has and always will be, the device that stores that generated power. If the so called Solar Generator came with an attached solar panel then and only then would it be a true Solar Generator. As it is, they have absolutely no reason to call it any more than a battery and inverter with a few bells and whistles.
Great video! Check out the phenomenon of "inrush current" to understand why the blender wouldn't run. I wouldn't be surprised if it has a test circuit built in with the error codes to make sure that it can get enough current to start the rotor spinning.
Great Vid, 100 W is like charging a phone and powering a labtop with 1 or 2 lamps. If people are looking for more power ur also gnna need to fit you're panel to a correct breaker, correct wiring depending on amperage, and correct solar panels to get a higher output like a 25 amp or 40 amps. This if ur powering a shed, garage, house, or BTC miners(the miners could take more depending on quantity)
Stiffness increases with the square of the length breadth etc. So if you say have a beam X long and half it's length it will be 8 times stiffer. That is why I like to have the smallest panels I can buy. Also, if one breaks, I don't lose all power. These mobile power supplies are now so good they can be used as a whole house power supply.
I got the same power box with the green handle that you showed at the end of the video. I was junk. I got it to turn on with some effort, but I wanted to use it as a 12 v UPS for my ONT (optical network termina) in the garage. It would only stay on for about 3 hours before the box cut the power even though it was plugged into AC. I decided to just use it for camping only. I ended up getting the Talentcell 12V LiFePO4 Battery Pack for only $54 for my ONT backup which works perfectly.
My Ecoflow River 1 saved me after Hurricane Milton. I have a Oukitel WP19 which has a very large battery. I used my phone for hotspot and kept my laptop charged with the Ecoflow. I was able to play Diablo 2 Resurrected Online with no power for hours. Only charged it up once with my Truck until power came back about 24 hours later. I have a small USB fan that I ran all night to help me sleep. Highly recommend a setup like this I do have the 100watt Solar panel but thankfully I was not out of power for long.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
UPDATE: Just posted a video testing out a $1,000 solar generator setup! - ua-cam.com/video/YU4AFkeR2jg/v-deo.html
Thank you very much!
Really enjoyed your videos!
Haven't had done this!
Please, assist me if it would be possible?
CHEERS 🥂
Saw your $100 solar set up video and challenged my son to see what we could do...
Now we are running dual LiFePO4 in parallel and bought a power bank like this video's to share the power around the house.
Now all our phones, laptops, batteries, and even a rechargeable hand held vacuum run on solar power.
Keep up the good content.
So you charge the lifep04 batteries by solar and use that juice to power the battery bank? ( I'm looking to get itnto this as well)
Yep... charge controller and batteries stays put. And the power bank can charge phones/gear at the other end of the house. Even used it to charge a car battery.
That's so awesome!
How much lower is your electric bill?
@@Texdc2003 Didn't do it for the power savings as it was a learning project, but a little math - using approx 120wh/day x 30 days = 3.6kwh x $0.139/kwh = about 50 cents a month
13:54 Electric motors usually take a huge current for milliseconds when they first start. I think that’s what X-boost is for.
Looked around comments for this! I studied basics of electrical engineering in high school even though I went for becoming computer technician. I had to refresh my memory a little bit thus i decided to comment.
There is many reasons why load devices experience surge in current and or voltage:
1. inrush current,
2. Transient phenomena in electric circuits,
3. capacitor charging,
4.Transitional mode in switches.
I'm not gonna explain all of them, but check it out!
When turning on a blender motor, there's an initial surge in current, known as inrush current. This happens because the motor needs extra power to overcome inertia and start rotating.
As an inductive load, the motor initially resists current flow, causing a temporary spike. Additionally, capacitors in the motor circuit may draw more current during startup, and mechanical load (if the blender is loaded) increases the initial power demand. Once the motor reaches full speed, the current stabilizes.
I’ve got the same solar panel, it’s very prickly in shade.🤨
The boost's waveform can also be a little funky. I remember Mattias Wandel was testing one with power tools, and he ended up killing a Kill-A-Watt with a backup unit that EcoFlow sent him. That is my guess as to what caused the error code for the blender.
X boost is a way of running devices that are above the rated wattage of the inverter. The Inverter does this by lowering the AC output voltage in order to keep the device from drawing too much power, but only works up to a certain power level. You should never use X boost to run anything other than basic resistive loads like toasters, heating elements, hair dryers, and coffee makers that aren't digital. Running X boost with digital devices can cause damage from the lower input voltage.
Yes. Most dc to ac inverters cannot handle motor loads unless they are specifically designed to do so.
You're the first person to show me the proper capacity of these things
But he didn't. What's useful about knowing a battery can run something for a few seconds? Have you ever needed a fridge to run for a few seconds?
@BoreasCastel I now the limits of them because off the way he used them in his videos if you get what I mean peace ✌ out
When you charge the battery up to 100% the first time it takes forever because it's calibrating the battery. That's why it stayed around 90-95% for so long.
The battery has multiple cells so when charged to 100% it will always take longer because it is balancing the cells.
It's due to cell balancing, cell balancing can take a very long time if you have a bunch of cells that a tenth or two of a V different.
@@EDCandLace I think it's due to cell balancing, i could be wrong but cell balancing is the balancing of cells.
Negatory, calibration of individual cells is done at the cell factory before being sold, the process is called forming. When cells are in a pack, that is cell balancing that the BMS will do according to each product implementation, often when charged to 100%.
When it says 100% charged, are the batteries actually only charged to 80% so u get more charge/discharge cycles, longer battery life?
Or would you need to change only to 80% & down to 30% to get the most lifespan?
I got the river max for $220 and i love it. 576Wh, 3 600w plugs, can do up to 220w solar input. Just need to get a couple panels. Used it to run my fridge for a few hours during a power outage and it still had over an hour of charge left when the power came on. Great video!
If that's the River 2 Max you're talking about, even better than the higher maximum MPPT wattage is being able to use panels with a Voc up to 50V, that is, residential panels. You can get a 440W panel for under 100 bucks and have enough overpanelling for most cloudy (white clouds) days.
Imagine buying a used gas generator for $200-250 and being able to run your fridge damn near indefinitely given how little load they actually pull with the cheap cost of gas. Instead you bought something that works for a few hours at best. Without batteries 5-10x larger, these are glorified phone chargers.
Anything under 1,000wh I consider a gadget charger. I got an Anker C300DC for the sole purpose of charging phone, earbuds, radio, flashlights, that's it. But it is useful to have one unless somebody can see it as reasonable to fire up the genny to charge a phone. I don't. I can charge my phone multiple times with the Anker. Enough so that it should have ample time to get recharged even if using only solar. I consider solar along in its tech enough now that I view things like phones, etc. as being grid-independent.@jeffdeezy
I have several different setups of solar panels, li batteries, chargers, inverters, etc, and the glorified "solar generator".
People don't understand these items are useless in a long term power blackout.
A 500 wh setup can only power a standard refrigerator for about 2 hours.
Before needing recharging.
You need something to run for a few days, get a small gas or propane generator.
@@jeffdeezy we used to have a gas generator, wasn't cheap. we live in FL. with all the neighbors cranking up their generators, it was very noisy. now that we have an EV, i'm waiting for bi directional software update so we can use our EV as a whole house backup battery. when that happens, we will install off grid panels just to charge the EV while it powers certain appliances.
I have the original EcoFlow Max. I first plugged it into the wall and after charging, plugged the refrigerator into the Max. The Max died after one month. I called EcoFlow and they said it could not be used as a UPS permanently. They sent me a new unit. The second one died after a couple of month while leaving it plugged it with nothing plugged into the Max. Called EcoFlow and they told me you can't leave it plugged in all the time. They sent me a new unit. So now after it's charged I unplug it and only use it during power outages. Disappointed.
IF it can not be plugged in to Solar Paneĺ and
Powering Home Refridgerator for 3 or 4 months
Then it is Not much Good in Western North Carolina where power Company still cannot Provide Power
@@jeffg5009You need a generac
Well yeah… that’s not how they’re intended to be used.
Battery banks are different than battery backup. You also aren’t supposed to leave your phone or laptop plugged in 24/7 because it’ll ruin the battery. That’s pretty common knowledge
@@jeffg5009You need to get a system that intended to be used while also charging!
@@Dnbootin Apparently it wasn't common knowledge to EcoFlow, because in the instructions they said it could be used as a UPS.
Before seeing your video, I didn’t think I could afford a solar generator. Thank you for the detailed info from unboxing and setup to testing voltage and capacity, addressing assumptions, and reassuring those of us nervous about electricity!
This comment made me smile! You're welcome :)
Check roof top installations and solar rebates mate. For 4x the price of this dinky thing you can get a proper solar setup on your roof top. This is peak first world nonsense pretending $250 for a single tiny disposable Chinese solar panel is "cheap". You can get all this stuff for $30 on MIC or AliX.
@@bashkillszombies I compared prices on Amazon vs. AliExpress, and Amazon is actually cheaper! Also, your tip only works for those with their own roof and significant upfront cash, especially since tax credits have decreased. This channel provided product links, tested them, and showed us how to set them up. Your criticism didn’t add much value.
The Aroma 4-cup rice cooker uses about 220 watts on high and 50 watts on low. A Dash Mini Griddle uses about 320 to 350 watts. Always use USB powered lights, fans, battery chargers etc in emergencies instead of the less efficient AC outlets to power these unless it`s during the day when the sun covers it.
@@bashkillszombies the solar panel was $58, not $250
My shed has a sub $100 system. It's a used UPS with an diy 4s 25AH LFP battery, about a $3 protection board with low and high voltage shut-off, and a solar charge controller for 12 bucks. The panel was from FB marketplace and was used. It's 340w and massive overkill but I'm happy, it was only $30.
I have a 7s battery and have 3x 100 watt panels, but haven't found a good charge option nor a good bms. What and where for the battery protection and charge controller?
Make a video
Please make a video and let me know??? Wouldn't want to miss it!
@@stevewoods8116Talk is all thats on the net, ive yet to see anyone upload a video on anything they say they did
I'm gonna say this is probably the best in depth real world review of this unit I have seen so far. Great Job 👍!
Wow, thank you!
@@footprintherolol trash shill
100% agree
You haven't watched Bob Wells.
Totally concur! Been doing TONS of confusing online searching... And I'm beyond happy with this video. Thank you!!
Ecoflow says you can overpanel these slightly, but you can safely overpanel them a bunch more to get closer to maxing out the MPPT in these. I've run two theoretically 100W panels in parallel, each capable of 80W on a good day, to get approximately 100W on a relatively average sunny day, and over 50W on a white clouds day.
If you have the right location, you could try two panels facing in slightly different directions, SW and SE in the northern hemisphere or NW and NE if you live in the upside down hemisphere. That way you don't have both panels producing maximum power at the same time, but you get a lot more electricity during the whole day.
Amazing Video, would love to see a follow up video using a 500$ budget!
For $500 you can most likely Buy a EcoFlow Delta 2 and the cheap solar panel on Black Friday or Cyber Monday. EcoFlow’s 200W bi facial solar panel will charge it faster though.
and spend $700 and have it count for that budget? Let's not pretend he stayed under budget here.
@@kal7049 I'd rather not him encourage people to waste money on foldable or ''Ecoflow'' rigid panel. They both are way overprice by a lot compared to market. Ecoflow do good powerstation... solar panel they just slap their brand on 3rd party stuff and make people pay a premium for no reason.
Bluetti AC180 was just on sale for a little over $400. Best bang for the buck power station in my opinion.
@@logangreen6977that and the anker solix c1000
Why this video isn’t viral yet? This is literally the best solar video i have seen in a while. Taught me a lot. Thank you
It's literally showing u nothing more than any ohms law / power equation will already tell you. Basic math.
Watts = amps × volts
Amps = watts ÷ volts
Volts = watts ÷ amps
Keep in mind the powerstation is a 12v system with an inverter to change is from DC 12v to AC 115 volts.
300 watt @ 12v is around 25 amp hours.
That's why doing the math on the back info sticker of the products you want to power will tell you if it will work.
High amp loads will not work on a small unit like this at all or for very long.
@ you do know that most people aren’t good at maths right? Having a visual explanation helps. Thats all im saying.
@@moussaniang4445you better know basic electrical math if you wana power things with any portable powerstation. I gave you the tools now get out there and educate yourself. You can do it. The watts rating is based on one hour of use. So it can power 300 watts continuously for approx 1 hour. Every information sticker on your electric device will tell you the wattage. If it's 150 it will run in for 2 hours. All simple math.
@@moussaniang4445 Must be some American thing.
Your setup is a great way to be introduced to what solar power can do. If I was serious about Solar Power, I would start with something more expensive and designed to be expanded. I also wouldn't rely on tying into the commercial grid and expecting to save much money. States and so-called public grids can make you go broke using solar as they seem to be changing their policies on a daily bases. Then there are these Fly-by-night solar installation companies. If you install panels on your roof, you better be ready for expensive repairs when the roof starts leaking.
Thank you for this!! I made the mistake of purchasing a small 300 watt inverter for $60 thinking I was getting a great deal, but not realizing how much energy it talked to brew a single cup of coffee. But after figuring out how to do the math to meet my needs, I was able to purchase a 600 watt (w/1200 watt surge) power station for the price of a 300 watt station on sale, and it performed remarkably well during our most recent power outage. The World needs more people like you to educate the rest of us who simply weren’t born with this knowledge. 😇
Found out that if you have a blended approach, you will get better results. I have an 12volt solar backup lighting system inside for emergency reasons, with a wood burning cook stove for heat. With a basic power converter, I can charge up all of my battery-operated tools and keep working. The 12-volt lighting is good for up to 48-72 hours with full charge. This allows plenty of charge to also charge 2 batteries at a time. Charging was done during daytime and even with adverse weather and the lights worked full time.
Keep going! Let's try $400, $500 etc. This video was really good! I had no idea how well the power station performed. Great video. Loved it all. Well presented, Alex!
7:20 Fun fact about modern batteries: they charge slower as they near full capacity. This is partly due to increased internal resistance at higher charge levels, which makes it harder to move electrons back in. This process creates a bit of internal pressure and helps protect the battery from damage, ultimately extending its lifespan. Rapid charging, especially with excess heat, can also lead to the formation of dendrites-tiny structures that obstruct electron flow. You might be familiar with this if you have an older phone that dies quickly or no longer charges to 100%.
07:00 "Don’t understand why it slows charging at 95%" All batteries meet exponentially slower charging rates as you reach capacity. Every elecron potential you add is pushing against a pool filled with repulsion negative charges.
The more full of electrons the pool is, the less they want more electrons.
TLDR more resistance at the end, like shoving passengers into a crowded Japanese speed train.
The last few stragglers need the most pushing 😂
,
Theres a video of elon explaining this
The closer to 100% the harder to charge
We bought the biggest solar generator Ecoflow offered. It worked great for hurricane Helene. It powered my refrigerator for 12 hours. In fact, we had 30% charge left when power came back. I charged it up, then brought it to our son. He used it for two days. It kept his refrigerator and CPAP machine running.
you should release the video from 100 dollar even if it failed. it should highlight the dangers of buying cheap power banks/generator setups or throw some shade on some of the manufacturers
Just wanted to point out, some devices will REQUIRE a ground connection. Thats why the blender was giving errors, there are tools to get around and trick the devices into thinking there is a ground
Or you could just ground it - either by plugging it into a wall socket, even when there's a power outage the ground is still there OR if you're in the wilderness by connecting it to a wire and a rod stuck deep into the... you've guessed it, ground - hence the name.
BTW the solar panel should be grounded as well - safety with high voltage is no joke. You want any excessive current to go to ground, preferably not through your body.
Motors have a high in-rush current to just start turning, that is why there was an overload shutoff. Nothing to do with a ground connection.
@@vaakdemandante8772how do you ground a solor panel?
No. It needs more power when starting. That is the problem.
The inrush currents on motors like that blender can spike like crazy. The ecoflow is probably killing it before it starts- giving the blender error. Also even a single leaf can kill the amperage off a solar panel so even though the voltage will remain consistent, the wattage wont pick up. Also for inductive loads like the hair drier, Xboost will lower the voltage safely to maintain current so you can use high mode if you want.
Better panels don't have that sensitivity to blockages, by the way. (And he could upgrade this one, but it's a bit technical.)
Best intro video to solar and power stations for buyers ever. You even identify best brands and buying strategy. Very educational for a guy who watches a lot of these videos. Only addendum would be if car fast charger will work with this, I.e. from bluetti, pecron or ecoflow.
This is the most comprehensive, set up, and use of power stations. So informative and helpful. I am a first time buyer. And This vid helped immensely. Big props. Thank you
That last 1% seems to take forever, no matter which solar charger. I have three different sized Jackery units - the Explorer 500, 1500
and 2000v2. Love them all, and they have different applications. The 500 gets the most use, recharging phones, lights, power banks,
ad infinitum! Thanks for the video! 👍
That's float charging. It's topping off the battery nicely and gently.
Lithium-Ion batteries need to be charged in a way which reduces the amperage over the last 10% of the charge, until the charge current reaches 10% of the full charge current at which time charging should end.
I'm suspecting that, instead of gradually reducing the amperage as the specifications for charging Li-Ion cells say to do, these chargers instantly reduce the charge current to 10% once the charge state reaches 90%, which would greatly increase the time taken for the last 10% charge to finish.
@@melkiorwiseman5234 That sounds reasonable. I'm just in the early stages of converting all my lead-acid deep cycle batteries with LiFePO4 powerbanks and batteries.
@13:45 that is inrush current spike. motors and capacitors typically have a sky-high momentary start-up current (several times the normal running wattage) that only lasts a tiny duration which won't show up on a meter unless it's designed to capture that brief inrush maximum specifically.
Came to add the above. Starting loads on motors etc is a different animal. As above stated you need a inrush capable meter to capture the LRA locked rotor amps of the device.
Electrical motors pull 6 times current at start. That is the reason start amps is important.
I got a delta 2 from a sweepstakes. Very good power station. It can run a vacuum cleaner without issues and charges in under 2 hours for 1kwH. The quirk of not reporting the AC usage was something I observed myself.
Thx for doing this on a smaller power station. Seems like everyone is doing videos on newer 2000+ power stations. I would be interested in a test of something between 500 & 1000. I’m thinking 100w is kind of the lower level minimum standard. I have a 5 year old folding 60w panel that basically covers my vehicle’s windshield. It takes forever to recharge a 300 power station, but it works. I’m thinking a 1000 power station would cover our needs, but wonder if we could get by on a 800 one that Echoflow or Bluetti make.
normal power station should be about 10kW to cover needs of normal household. DIY solution is about 8k$
@@Lazarev666 thx for input.
@@karinhart489 welcome 😁
It all based on weather conditions, places like Spain, especially South are highly effective for solar. Most of the price goes to batteries anyway. There is a channel called: cleaver solar by Nick. He explains everything in a simple way.
Solar panels are good and affordable, but storage is still expensive. Best use case scenario is air conditioning in hotter climates: hot=sun up
Best Regards
My old Bluetti EB70 (original 700w one, first batch released) runs my small 5 cubic ft chest freezer for 24 hours on a full charge. Same with my 3.2 cubic ft dorm fridge. It`s great for most simple rice cookers too....even a larger 4 quart (aprox) large one. I think my big rice cooker uses 350w.
Great video! I was not expecting it to run the large fridge.
Some large fridge's like my older Kenmore, while using only 160w normal, jump up to over 400 during the defrost cycle. Something to maybe consider.
How long would it run the fridge, that’s the big question
12:30 For 3 hours when the battery is 78% charged. So, not very useful.
@@plica06 I wonder if a solar panel charging it would make a difference?
Thanks, this was a good video. You chose a high-quality budget setup that would be a good portable solution for emergencies. It's small enough to be packed into a car if you need to bug out or camp out and powerful enough for the bare essentials such as lighting or even a small fan plus keeping communication devices charged.
The start-up amps of the blender motor under load, water equals load, can be 3-5 times the running load amps. This is typical of most electric motor drive systems not equipped with a soft start. These reduce start-up amps by increasing time to full running rpm. That is an oversimplification, but suffice it to say, it works. Good video. Thank you.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do a $500 budget. I'm getting a gift card for that this Christmas and it would be perfect.
You can make a bigger charger than you can buy for a $500 budget.
@@rodneyreno5109is this experience talking or theory? If you've done it, what did you start w?
@neepsmcfly4176 I would also be interested in a suggested parts list. My budget is more like $500 to $1000, so would be interested in that, too.
@@neepsmcfly4176 This is my 2nd time writing this maybe they don't want ppl knowing idk. I used 2 100watt solar panels. 1 mppt solar controller, 2 12v 100ah 1280watt 2x(2560watt) lifepo4 lithium batteries. And 2 30am fuses. And a voltmeter only a few bucks. I ran the batteries in series. Maybe add a battery equilizer
UA-cam building a solar generator
I bought this powerstation and the portable foldup solar panels that EcoFlo sells. So far im happy
Would love to see a $1,000 budget. If you need $1,200 to make a much bigger splash do it.. what would it take to run a fridge, fan, lamp and TV for 48 hours during sunny days.
1000 won't get you far also depends on the power consumption of the devices.
Dang, we have come so far in so little time. I put together my own monocrystalline solar setup in an apartment 12yrs ago: marine batteries where I calculated wire length to the cm to ensure even charge/discharge, pure sine wave inverter, MPPT controller which powered my xbox 360 and ~55" flatscreen, cell phone charger, ipad charger. So so so much more expensive.
12:03 Any appliance with a build-in electric motor will cause an inrush current pick. The fridge would also overload the tiny River II, my mini freezer can't be run (start the compressor motor) on the River II when I tested it. On this video it was only powering the lights inside the fridge.
Bluetti EB3A is what I purchased it will output 600 watts and has all the same features except usb c input charging. Also has Power Lift to run higher wattage resistive loads. It's $200 usd.
Great job!! As time goes on the price of these setups become more affordable. I have a 700 watt system that cost me double of what you paid two years ago. This works as more ppl can afford them and provide some small measure of security.
thank you for helping the community understand this stuff! good job!
remember keep the box (batteries) in the shade, nice n cool !
SOLAR panel in the SUN and batteries cool
Your channel inspired me to buy an Ecoflow Delta 3 Plus and two 195W bi-facial solar panels from EcoWorthy (the back side is rated for 29W). I just got the panels today and am waiting for the Delta 3 Plus, the solar extension cables, and the adapter cable (mistakenly bought the XT60, not XT60i version, which may only bring in 8 amps, instead of the full 15amps). I need to do some testing once everything gets set up. Loved your video about bi-facial panels and am using an insulative material that is reflective, with a bunch of small circular bumps on them to capture as much light as I can for the back of the panels. My biggest concern is the 60V limit on the solar connections (2 of them). I want to eventually get 3 panels on each connection to max out the 500W per connection, but the 60V limit and 15A limit are both constrictive if I tried to setup 3 panels on either port. So, I'm just sticking with 2 on each port (once I can buy the second set of panels and mounts). If you have any advice regarding managing the Voltage incoming from 3 panels in my type of setup, please let me know.
A genuine real world test without a lot of science. Your video told me a lot about some issues that I need to know. My remaining question is about northern Indiana winter sun. We may go for days without sunshine. Will overcast daylight charge the battery enough to run my fridge for a half hour several times a day? I don't expect you to try to emulate my situation. You've given me enough usable information to get started and I thank you.
In an Indiana winter, you should be able to keep your food cool outside, or bring chunks of ice made outside inside
You can add solar panels in parallel to increase charge capacity. It's an expensive solution since you'll generally need 4-6 times the panels as you'd need in full sun, but it will work. The only problem is ensuring that the charging circuit doesn't attempt to pass the full current from the panels in full sun, but I'd assume that any good charger will have current limiting built in (I hope they do, anyway).
In that climate, most winter nights will get down to 25deg. F.. If you know someone who gets shipments of insulin or other refrigerated medical supplies, have them save the plastic bags of frozen liquid that are used as cooling for shipment. Lay these outside at night and bring them into your ref. in the morning. I keep some in my freezer, ready to go if I need to keep something cool. ( pop, food ETC.)
The blender looked like it peaked at 500ish watts for a split second when starting. This is called inrush current when an electric motor is just starting. This is why lots of battery stations have a surge rating, as for a fraction of a second, many appliances will use well over their running current. AC compressors for example could guzzle down as much as double their running power when they turn on, but only for a few ms. Breakers are even designed around this as they have a delay that won't trip in that short of time for this exact reason.
Batteries charge way faster when it’s empty, Elon explained why you should charge Tesla all the way,
An example is like an empty parking lot and a whole lot of cars are look for parking, in the beginning it’s easy and gets filled up but as the parking lot lot gets full it gets harder to find a parking spot, same with battery charge
I heard to get from 99 to 100% will take you around the same time as 1-70%, hence why you should just charge it up to 80-90% and then use anything with batteries
X Boost is a smart workaround that performs particularly well in countries with a 220V power supply. It lowers the voltage to reduce power consumption, ensuring the load stays within the power station’s maximum capacity. At 220V, the system reduces voltage to 110V, which is enough to keep most devices operational, albeit at lower speeds and reduced power. In contrast, in the USA, where the standard voltage is 110V, dropping it to 55V often causes devices to shut down rather than continue functioning.
That depends on the device. Some run less efficiently at lower voltages (more power loss across the rectifiers and line loss, e.g. computer power supplies). Could burnout devices that will just draw more power and run hotter (e.g. motors, which is why you shouldn't run your compressor off an extension cord!). But would work on purely resistive devices.
Would work better as a strategy if they reduced frequency instead (but for motors only).
I love the mix of technical and practical. So many of these videos online dont compare to your super simple approach of... this is what you can plug into it and how long it will last. Great job. Forever thankful subscriber.
CPAP machine test and how long it will last
1 night
He gave the math in the video where you can find the runtime for any device. It's when he's testing the upright fan.
Depends on your CPAP. Mine with heat and humidifier pulls around 75w / 6 amps. Without that it goes all over between 7-15 watts. I run this CPAP off a 24k power bank (88whr) for a full night and I've done so on a plane before. So this power station could power my CPAP for a week. It all depends on your make, model and settings
@@jjcoolaus thanks, I am in the process of getting one, so I don't have the numbers to do that math yet
The powerdraw depends on how hard it's running and how hard the humidifier does. Amazon sells $5 power monitoring plugs which will answer your question.
Great to come across this. Nice to see someone testing various loads. I picked up the Ecoflow River2 back before September. I also picked up a 100-watt panel from Harbor Freight because it was easier to take along than the 4-panel 100-watt kit I already had. I used the River2 from a full charge to run an amateur radio in the field pretty much all day during the last Texas QSO Party in September. Still need to play around with the solar panel to get an idea about charging. I wish there was a 12-volt post-type connection that had a higher amperage than the power socket. Many amateur radios can draw a good bit higher amperage when transmitting. I found it ironic that during that amateur radio field setup, I had brought a generator that everyone else used, but I ran my rig on the Ecoflow River2.
I like that you tried it with different appliances. Well done
I bought a 99$ 300w power Bank with all kinds of features off of Amazon. I've had it for almost two years and I bought a 30w portable folding solor panel as well. So far I haven't had any issues with it and I use it for all sorts of things. Never thought about plugging my fridge in to see if it works
I LOVE the River 2! It got my family through Hurricane Helene for over a week this year!
What did you run for a week? A 2KW gas generator can run a window AC, refrigerator, a large TV and all other electronics. Also, we did not have sun for 2 days and had very strong wind.
@@foilcap I went thru Helene with exactly that setup and gear. I would also like to know the answer to your question. I live very near Asheville, where we STILL don't have potable water, (though that's irrelevant here).
@@EngineerBear-cp5cl We have a deep artesian well so water comes out even without power. But I am considering a second 2KW generator just for the well pump. I was researching battery generator for the well - so that I could put it in the garage next to the pump - but they don't seem to be reliable enough and people still run gas generators to keep batteries charged. For my own house I'd get a 4-5 KW Honda quiet inverter connected to a transfer switch.
One of the few videos actually showing shopping and checking out. Usually people skip those steps. 🎉
I have an Ecoflow River 2 (different model from the looks of it, the outlets are on the side and I have 3 AC Outlets)
I power ---
Ubiquti Dream Machine, a 24 port POE switch, a 10gig 5 port switch, my modem, my security cameras, Network Accessed Storage, and a NUC 13 on it with pass through. I've had two power outages, both times I've been able to continue to use the network, shut down the NAS properly, properly shut down the servers running on the NUC 13 and the NUC itself.
Then run the POE switch/UDM to continue gathering footage on my security cameras (which are Power over Ethernet) during the outages for about 2 hours.
Since I got this, I've got 13kw of solar panels installed on a grid tied ground mount, which happily offsets my electric bill by roughly half (I have a lot of tech in my home and my power bill was reflecting that lol)
Either way I actually started all this because I got an Eco Flow setup from amazon for roughly $500. Included in it was two 100 watt solar panels (Probably two of the ones you have), a 1000watt inverter, a little charge controller, and 2 small batteries. I have this setup to power lights in a shipping container, and any tools I happen to plugin out there to use such as a shop vac, chargers for my tools, a grinder, etc. Which may sound like it was a lot of money but when you consider the cost of running power to another building just to have access to those things occasionally when you use it, it was actually about the same price and it doesn't contribute to my already out of control power bill.
I have this same unit and a 250w foldable solar pannel. When powering a tv if you turn down the back light of the tv and turn up the brightness to make up for it you can get it to run pulling less wattage so it can run longer. Ecoflow do have a surchage option that will still power up devices over the rated wattage xboost.
Very cool project that I'm sure many people in FL and NC would be thankful for right now. And for only ~$250, makes it seem like a no brainer for "just in case". If someone wanted to start with this and expand/upgrade down the line, what would that look like? Since it's right up against the stated solar input is the only option to add battery storage? Also, I think $500 would be the next step to look at for solar generator setup.
Very good and PRACTICAL video. So many UA-cam video creators fail to consider cost as a factor in determining what type of system is "best" and instead of helping people prepare for power outages, they just leave viewers with a sense of hopelessness if they are not able to spend huge amounts....leading them to postpone making preparations until "someday" when they can afford the more costly and more powerful systems. Unfortunately, "someday" might not come before a power outage does and even a small system is better than nothing at all when the lights go out.
Thank you for making this. 💯❤
Great video! Lots of information presented in a simple, easy to understand format..
You Folks in the US are SO lucky!! Here in Britain....the usual..."you CAN'T do THAT!...or the ever regular "we FORBID you to DO that..." prevails...besides, the SALES infrastructure is just not around! GOOD LUCK to YOU GUYS!!! well impressed!...& if you're in Arizona, Texas, Florida....WOW!!!
Was hoping you would have tested a portable Air Conditioning unit 😂.
Good content much appreciated.
portable aircons start at about 2Kw. That's 2000 watts. This powerstation is rated for only a few hundred watts.
Air conditioner units use an enormous amount of electricity. What you need is a 12v DC DIY swamp cooler if you live in a low humidity area. Mine uses only 11amps DC, and can run for days.
Good reviews. Simple, common person oriented, and straight-forward, thank you!
The Aroma 4-cup rice cooker uses about 220 watts on high and 50 watts on low. A Dash Mini Griddle uses about 320 to 350 watts. Always use USB powered lights, fans, battery chargers etc in emergencies instead of the less efficient AC outlets to power these unless it`s during the day when the sun covers it.
Thank you! That is really helpful! Nice and clear and thorough. I have shared it with two people who may go in on it with me! Thank you for preparing everything and recording the process so well, and explaining things so beginners like me can understand. I wish you all good things.
solar "generator". wish people would push back against this marketing malarky. edit: watched vid all the way thru, and happy to hear him refer to "power station" (a nice band as well). good video.
Yes,they are basically batteries that store charge .They don’t generate anything they supply from what they receive in.Just middlemen really,but handy.
I mean, by definition the whole system together IS a generator. The box is just a battery, the panel is just a panel, but together the system generators electricity from sunlight, instead of converting potential energy into mechanical energy.
@@GoblinArmyInYourWalls you can "generate" that same energy by JUST ADDING THE PANEL to your existing system (assuming you already have battery/inverter, which most rv's do, and these systems are marketed directly to rv owners).
@@JeanSchlemaan no idea why generate is in quotations, that's what it is. A part to a whole system that generates electricity from solar enegery.
@@GoblinArmyInYourWalls by your definition, ANYTHING can be labeled a "solar generator", so long as it contains solar panels. in fact, come to think of it, the world contains solar panels, so is therefore a "solar generator". my rv generates power from a solar panel, and is therefore a "solar generator".
Subbed, I absolutely love that you aren’t just doing sponsored stuff and actually buy the stuff kinda like jerryrigeverything does. I have a battery bank I got on a deal with a solar panel and will be trying to power a room with it! Keep up the excellent work!
Thanks for doing this video! Was interesting and I've been curious about what these could actually handle.
as someone with access to a River 2 and a Delta 2 I would 100% reccomend the Delta over the River for anything with even a moderate power usage.
me and a buddy run a convention booth and between our POS (tablet, thermal printer and hotspot phone) we can kill a River 2 in under 12 hours unless we set the tablet or phone to power saving. The Delta 2 however will run that and more for between 42-52 hours .
TL;DR The River just doesn't have the wh/h for medium term use and if you can afford it go with a Delta
Great video! EcoFlow is the way to go. I have a Delta 2 and it doesn’t show lower output information on the device screen but it is powering the devices.
Thank you for making this video. A simple set up like this would work for me during the summers and late spring/early autumn.
I really should take a basic electrician's course so I can know this stuff.
I think the next reasonable budget for a test project would be $500 USD.
Always check the polarity of the panels. We often see solar panels with the polarity switched around.
How does this affect things?
@@WuCandice fry the device you plug it up to.
@@kevinroberts781 ty ok
Any properly designed device *SHOULD* have a reverse polarity voltage blocking diode already built into it!!! 😬
A great test! I would however recommend everyone to not cheap out on the solar panel and chose one that is poly crystalline instead, since it is able to charge even when it's cloudy and I think they also are able to charge even if the panel is partially in shade, but I could be wrong about the latter. Maybe also consider buying two solar panels, that way you can connect them in a way that if one of the panels are partially shaded, it doesn't affect the other solar panels ability to charge. You need to remember that connecting them in either series or parallel also affect the amps and watts, so be sure it still works with the power bank you buy.
The UA-camr Jasonoid also makes great tests and have put power banks/generators to hard tests, also regarding UPS uses.
If you want to buy things for prep, an investment in a small portable cooler, just the one in the video is great to have. They are however pretty expensive, but you can usually power them in 3-4 ways. 12/24V or 230V (60hz) in Europe or 110V (50hz) for the Americas (if I'm not mistaking) and also sometimes even with gas. Naturally the gas function makes it way more expensive.
What's really important is longevity. How many cycles will that bank take before the charge capacity/retention starts decreasing? How long will that panel gather at peak efficiency?
Thousands
@@scottbradford192 in your dreams
LOL i see you channel arround 2 hours whit the video of 100$ budget and now youtube recommenden this video, Awesome
With the disasters in Western NC and Florida a set up like this could have helped. Several friends of mine were without any power for 10 days or more. Just to be able to charge a phone would have made a difference. Could this setup power a well pump? Thanks for the info!
None of the solar generators I have seen advertised will power a well, was off grid for 12 years, tried solar, had 8 100 watt solar panels, 8 batteries, 4,500 watt trace inverter and battery management system, what they DON'T tell you about solar panels is you get much less power from them when cold, at -20F get ZERO measurable power and high temps degrade the panels shorting their life.
Yes but NOT with that small of a unit. You would generally want a larger power stations in the 1000W+ range. And as far as the well pump goes... that would depend on the well pump. A 2000W power station can generally run a 120VAC well pump without issue, you'd have to read the specs on the well pump. Larger well pumps might require 240VAC and an even beefier power station to run.
For disasters / emergency backup these power stations are best augmented with a gasoline generator. The combination is really good though. With a power station big enough to run 12+ hours you would only need to run the generator once or twice a day to charge up the power station and can leave the generator off the rest of the time, resulting in a VAST savings in gasoline. Gasoline is precious in an emergency so its a big deal.
And adding a bit of solar to that reduces generator use even more. So... again a really great combination to have a power station and solar even if you can't get rid of the generator.
yay! this is the best in depth real world review of this unit I have seen.
4:24 Wow! Who knew moving a solar panel from out of the shade and into the sun would make such a difference! Go science!
He is an folk haha
Thank you. Finally a solar video I can understand in real world situations. Subscribed!
Really thankful for this kind of helpful content!
❤
Its good to see that someone is making videos for the alternative power units most of us can actually afford!!!❤ GREAT JOB KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!.
I didn't know I needed this, you appeared after the previous video I was watching. You would be great in Sales🤗I just placed my order~Thank You!
Let's do a $1000 challenge!
I've used the River as a UPS for my computer for years. There are some caveats though. You can only charge to about 85% and have to put a load on it every few months. I usually run mine for an hour or so and draw it down to 50% before plugging it back in.
these people need to get it through their heads that $250 is a LOT of money
This is the BEST vid I’ve ever seen.
Brilliant. Well explained and super well tested.
Well Done! 😊
thank you so much i didnt know you could charge it with the type c. my idea of charging the eco flow with spare ryobi batteries will work.
The port should be labeled "USB-C PD" where the "PD" denotes "Power Delivery". Basically a dual use power Input/Output Port.
Seem like a great setup for the power out issue and keeping your food cold. You don't have to run the fridge 24/7 to keep it cold if you don't open it so this setup could probably run your fridge for weeks if it needed too. Maybe the only bummer is it is so small you are not running anything to cook with though. I would love to see what would be the bear min price to still be able to cook, keep the fridge cool (not at the same time) and keep your devices like phone powered if the power was out at your house for weeks at a time.
$500 setup next
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This just sounds like a straight-up sponsor
Great video. Thank you for breaking this down so it is easy to understand.
Thanks for the video and showing everyone the results of your tests. When you tried to overload it with the blender and hair dryer, it was really useful info, since it shows the real-world limits of these.
Seeing how it ran all the convenience appliances was great, but running the fridge was the best info, because I hope if people loose power, they understand to keep the fridge cool, and not finish an episode of reality TV on Netflix. And what you showed was a budget build, and you can scale up accordingly.
I recently got a larger Eco-flow battery pack, so it's nice to see what it can handle. Keep an eye on sales if you are in the market for one of these, because they do fluctuate in price.
One product earns commission underneath the title shows they have reason to lie to you about the product to get you to buy it so they earn commission😂😅😂 don't be so gullible😊 1:53
250 budget is perfect! Because that is what us poor people could realistically afford! Would love to see different setups at that price to see whats the BEST you can get for 250!❤
I never owned one but at thr risk of sounding even more stupid than I actually am, why do you need a solar panel when you already have a Solar Generator?
Oh you’re not stupid. The term “solar generator” is a misnomer, because it’s a battery. But a battery with a built in charge controller and inverter for AC. You still have to charge the unit, thus a solar panel, or a car plug, or a wall outlet. People get pretty militant about the term.
@@SchoolforHackers I was actually counting on posts like yours. ;)... thanks. This video did run a good and useful test and if it weren't for the way overpriced units and the deceptive claim of the name we'd probably be a little less militant.
@@SchoolforHackers It is not a misnomer, a battery is a generator, at least in the same sense as a gasoline generator. They both would be more accurately described as converters since they convert chemical energy into electrical energy. The way many people think of a battery is more like a capacitor.
Think of the solar panel as the "gasoline." It puts more "fuel" into the battery.
It's obvious to me anyway, the suns rays are the gasoline, the panel is the generator using the fuel the sun omits and the battery is what it always has and always will be, the device that stores that generated power.
If the so called Solar Generator came with an attached solar panel then and only then would it be a true Solar Generator. As it is, they have absolutely no reason to call it any more than a battery and inverter with a few bells and whistles.
I own the River 2 light and the River 2 Pro, both with Ecoflow panels. Deeply impressed with both!
Great video! Check out the phenomenon of "inrush current" to understand why the blender wouldn't run. I wouldn't be surprised if it has a test circuit built in with the error codes to make sure that it can get enough current to start the rotor spinning.
I ordered. Coming Xmas Eve! Thanks for the video.
Great Vid, 100 W is like charging a phone and powering a labtop with 1 or 2 lamps. If people are looking for more power ur also gnna need to fit you're panel to a correct breaker, correct wiring depending on amperage, and correct solar panels to get a higher output like a 25 amp or 40 amps. This if ur powering a shed, garage, house, or BTC miners(the miners could take more depending on quantity)
Stiffness increases with the square of the length breadth etc. So if you say have a beam X long and half it's length it will be 8 times stiffer. That is why I like to have the smallest panels I can buy. Also, if one breaks, I don't lose all power. These mobile power supplies are now so good they can be used as a whole house power supply.
Definitely worth it. I'm getting one now.
Nice work Alex, fun and educational video 👊
I got the same power box with the green handle that you showed at the end of the video. I was junk. I got it to turn on with some effort, but I wanted to use it as a 12 v UPS for my ONT (optical network termina) in the garage. It would only stay on for about 3 hours before the box cut the power even though it was plugged into AC. I decided to just use it for camping only. I ended up getting the
Talentcell 12V LiFePO4 Battery Pack for only $54 for my ONT backup which works perfectly.
My Ecoflow River 1 saved me after Hurricane Milton. I have a Oukitel WP19 which has a very large battery. I used my phone for hotspot and kept my laptop charged with the Ecoflow. I was able to play Diablo 2 Resurrected Online with no power for hours. Only charged it up once with my Truck until power came back about 24 hours later. I have a small USB fan that I ran all night to help me sleep. Highly recommend a setup like this I do have the 100watt Solar panel but thankfully I was not out of power for long.