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Cor, what a lovely looking engine that is. You’ll have to put a plaque on the rocker box that says “Hand built by ______” like the chaps at Aston Martin do. 😉
Turning it over with the starter motor reminds me of Arkwright and his new washing machine, but with a different colour coat! Great video as usual well done Mike lad! Roger.
I can't believe how well the soda blaster cleans up the aluminium components, they look like new. It's a real shame that engine is not going into a fully restored Land Rover, maybe a project for the future when you are winding down for retirement.
Once upon a time I did an oil change in an Allegro and, not knowing any better, I wasn't concerned when it only took a bit over half a gallon. A couple of hundred miles later the engine started sounding like a bag of bolts. Turned out the sump and oilways were massively gunked-up and, as a result, there wasn't space for the full quantity of new oil AND the sludge was getting pumped around the engine and blocked it. As a result of that, I always use a measuring jug to put oil in anything now, just to make sure the expected amount HAS gone in, and I'm not going to get any nasty surprises.
I have always pre-filled my oil filters as well. Why not? But this reminds me that Mike will often cold start an engine that has been sitting outside in the snow. And that can also damage an engine's bearings - I've read studies that claim 80% of engine wear can be on cold starts. I've run many vehicles for over 300K km on the original engine with never any issues - but I use a block heater in the winter (and synthetic oil). Obviously you can only use a block /engine heater if one is fitted, though :-)
you should seal the bell housing so the wading plugs do make sense...otherwise you'll flood the clutch even with the effort of putting the plugs in before wading... other method to prime the engine for routine oil changes: remove the connector from the shut off solenoid an crank it till the oil pressure warning light extinguishes...
@@BritannicaRestorations just the once mate. Saw the 101 and the series 1. Used to do some bits for a few lads in South Bank. And they new Steve very well.
I have a question if you could please answer it when you have a minute , I have squeaking bushes on my s type Jaguar what can I put on them 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Heat wrap around the coolant pipe and a turbo blanket. I wrapped my manifold and turbo and down pipe on my tdi and it made significantly more boost, faster spool up. Cooler engine bay as well. I used to feel the heat from the exhaust in the fire wall. Not anymore!
Good video as always👍🏻 I have really enjoyed the series. Noticed that fitting the front covers, timing gears etc, rear end seal, flywheel housing, flywheel and clutch assembly would be easier and possibly assist with alignment if you could rotate the engine vertically to fit those components. It would also assist with weight balance. At Solihull we used a fabricated steel ‘foot’ which was bolted to the block where the engine mount is and then the foot was locked into the engine stand. We also used alignment ‘pins’ for the front cover and rear end oil seal as you have managed to fabricate. During build at Solihull we also used 10mm hex head bolts with spring washers to fix the clutch plate to prevent the bolts loosening from vibration. Do you think your compromising that safety feature by using flange bolts as replacements?
Interesting For the clutch bolts the clutch pressure should be a huge spring washer - I have opened a lot of clutches and seen flange bolts as these HD clutches do not have enough space to get a socket in
@@BritannicaRestorations Mike, I totally understand where your coming from regarding the lack of space to fit a socket. At the factory, the flywheel and pressure plate were fixed by using DC multitools to save time, the pressure plates were a pain to fit due to the fact that the spring washers and bolts were fiddly trying to start the threads off in the flywheel before using the multitool to torque them down. To ensure that the sockets located correctly on the hex bolt heads the sockets were machined and tapered. Never have we fitted those clutches with flange bolts for the reason I previously mentioned.
you can get an OEM LR alternator from the UK - rebuilt with 1 year warranty for $100 plus $30 shipping to the states - I would take that over a new chinese one
Could the same oil dispensing pump you used to fill the oil filter be used to fill the engine oil via the oil cooler return hose [or pressure switch plug] to reduce the amount of priming time with the jump leads?
You are great man, thank you very much, I try to follow from part 1 until to part 12, I have landrover Freelander td4 2.0 Diesel, 20t2n, I change the Injector pump electronic pump to fit manual pump, but no getting full leaving, what's going to change to coming right,
You said you don’t understand the need to seal the flywheel housing to the block as it doesn’t contain any liquid - well, you want to keep it that way, so sealing the housing will keep water out when wading.
Britannica Restorations, like the starter motor to flywheel housing, they should have very flat mating faces, so I apply a generous smear of heavy grease to act as a sealant that won’t hold the parts together when I need to separate them. The back of the block and the rear bearing cap aren’t as flat a face as the single piece bell housing and flywheel housing, so the grease won’t work. You also only have to separate the flywheel housing from the block if rebuilding the engine, not for more routine servicing like clutch changes. I think that’s the justification. I do vaguely recall reading 25+ years ago an instruction to seal the bell housing to flywheel housing on Series vehicles with Hylomar or similar, but I can’t remember if that was a LR manual or somewhere else - does that ring any bells with you? 🤔
I wonder how many engines sustain bottom end damage from people putting unfilled oil filters on when doing oil changes. Someone once tried to convince me that it was ok not to pre fill the filter, but the sound of bearings "hammering" on start up is enough proof for me.
But filling the filter, through the “out” port. There is undeniable risk of introducing foreign contaminants- after the filter- Trapping any dust/dirt inside the bearings. I think it’s better to spin the oil pump to bring pressure. That way you are filtering ALL the oil And the “hammering” of changing oil without pre filling filter is NOT bearings. It’s clatter from hydronic lifters. If you hear bearings banging around it’s already a lost cause.
@@fastinradfordable I have always pre filled the filters as Mike did, (it's good practice), I use the oil from the bottle that I'm filling the sump from, I've been doing this for 55 years of oil changes, never had a problem. As for the "hammering" with an engine starting up with an empty oil filter there's much more to make noises as well as hydraulic lifters, but not all engines have them, particularly LandRover TDI engines.
I always prime filters as well. Except when I helped my son with his Nissan TD42T. It has two filters, but the bloody things are upside down! How stupid is that?
NEW! My own Subscription/Donation service at affordable rates!
britrest.com/subscriptions/
Special tools, stickers and old stock parts!
www.britrest.com/shop
www.paypal.me/britrest2018
I´m really looking forward to see it sit in the engine compartment and starting it!! Absolute delight to watch you rebuilding this engine!!
Great Video, imagine that all the components used in that engine used to be made in factories in the UK all gone abroad😞
Tell me about it
There is part of my engineering mind that finds it so satisfying knowing that every gallery, oil passage way and bearing is now full of oil
It is a bit anal but good to know the oil is going round before fitting
@@BritannicaRestorations No, I am with you Mike, lovely to turn it over with no load on it and build up the oil pressure.
Please talk him into brand new radiator and hoses. I’d be looking at the heater core too. Great job Mike!
Cor, what a lovely looking engine that is. You’ll have to put a plaque on the rocker box that says “Hand built by ______” like the chaps at Aston Martin do. 😉
Great idea
Turning it over with the starter motor reminds me of Arkwright and his new washing machine, but with a different colour coat! Great video as usual well done Mike lad! Roger.
It does!
Mike think the Britpart label refers to the label being made in the UK!
Another great day in the classroom for us students.👍👍👍
Good call!
I can't believe how well the soda blaster cleans up the aluminium components, they look like new. It's a real shame that engine is not going into a fully restored Land Rover, maybe a project for the future when you are winding down for retirement.
Once upon a time I did an oil change in an Allegro and, not knowing any better, I wasn't concerned when it only took a bit over half a gallon.
A couple of hundred miles later the engine started sounding like a bag of bolts.
Turned out the sump and oilways were massively gunked-up and, as a result, there wasn't space for the full quantity of new oil AND the sludge was getting pumped around the engine and blocked it.
As a result of that, I always use a measuring jug to put oil in anything now, just to make sure the expected amount HAS gone in, and I'm not going to get any nasty surprises.
Good tip!
G'Day Mike
Nothing and I mean NOTHING beats a tight BUSH! ( well except a nicely trimmed one maybe) LOL
Nice one matey, take care. :D
But it must be well lubed. Nothing worse than a dry bush.
@@bigm383 Oh so true, one must apply plenty of lube, I believe that the "One finger Method" with the appropriate lube is the best!
Why did you do it ? Because you’re knowledgable and conscientious .
I have always pre-filled my oil filters as well. Why not? But this reminds me that Mike will often cold start an engine that has been sitting outside in the snow. And that can also damage an engine's bearings - I've read studies that claim 80% of engine wear can be on cold starts. I've run many vehicles for over 300K km on the original engine with never any issues - but I use a block heater in the winter (and synthetic oil). Obviously you can only use a block /engine heater if one is fitted, though :-)
I'm dying to hear that engine starting up!!
Got it running today but had a lot of problems with the lift pump
you should seal the bell housing so the wading plugs do make sense...otherwise you'll flood the clutch even with the effort of putting the plugs in before wading...
other method to prime the engine for routine oil changes: remove the connector from the shut off solenoid an crank it till the oil pressure warning light extinguishes...
Great point!
Reminds me so much of Steve Graham. The land rover God up north.
Good old Steve! Did you ever visit his exquisite place in Haverton Hill?
@@BritannicaRestorations just the once mate. Saw the 101 and the series 1. Used to do some bits for a few lads in South Bank. And they new Steve very well.
So close to final start up 👍👍👍👍👍👍
I have a question if you could please answer it when you have a minute , I have squeaking bushes on my s type Jaguar what can I put on them 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Great tip re priming the oil filter until it won’t take more oil. How many garages would do that as part of a routine service?
None
Hey mike you need a heat shield behind.the hella alternator are a heat shield on the turbo exhaust otherwise it kills the alternator prematuraly
There is no way to fit one on that style of alternator but maybe something round the down pipe
Heat wrap around the coolant pipe and a turbo blanket.
I wrapped my manifold and turbo and down pipe on my tdi and it made significantly more boost, faster spool up.
Cooler engine bay as well.
I used to feel the heat from the exhaust in the fire wall.
Not anymore!
Thoroughly enjoyed the rebuild Mike, loved it 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Man you know your stuff 🤩
Super fabbo squadron leader..😁😎pip pips and carryon
Yeah thanks!
Excellent work mike !
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Mike, I never trust ‘CofO’ claims. I live in the Middle East, and in the supermarket I often see Atlantic Salmon marked as locally produced 😂😂😂.
Well, it could be...
lol!
Good video as always👍🏻 I have really enjoyed the series.
Noticed that fitting the front covers, timing gears etc, rear end seal, flywheel housing, flywheel and clutch assembly would be easier and possibly assist with alignment if you could rotate the engine vertically to fit those components. It would also assist with weight balance.
At Solihull we used a fabricated steel ‘foot’ which was bolted to the block where the engine mount is and then the foot was locked into the engine stand. We also used alignment ‘pins’ for the front cover and rear end oil seal as you have managed to fabricate.
During build at Solihull we also used 10mm hex head bolts with spring washers to fix the clutch plate to prevent the bolts loosening from vibration.
Do you think your compromising that safety feature by using flange bolts as replacements?
Interesting
For the clutch bolts the clutch pressure should be a huge spring washer - I have opened a lot of clutches and seen flange bolts as these HD clutches do not have enough space to get a socket in
@@BritannicaRestorations Mike, I totally understand where your coming from regarding the lack of space to fit a socket. At the factory, the flywheel and pressure plate were fixed by using DC multitools to save time, the pressure plates were a pain to fit due to the fact that the spring washers and bolts were fiddly trying to start the threads off in the flywheel before using the multitool to torque them down. To ensure that the sockets located correctly on the hex bolt heads the sockets were machined and tapered. Never have we fitted those clutches with flange bolts for the reason I previously mentioned.
you can get an OEM LR alternator from the UK - rebuilt with 1 year warranty for $100 plus $30 shipping to the states - I would take that over a new chinese one
So bloody exciting. 😊👍🏻
I’m impatient for the noise at the end however worth the wait no half measures
Could the same oil dispensing pump you used to fill the oil filter be used to fill the engine oil via the oil cooler return hose [or pressure switch plug] to reduce the amount of priming time with the jump leads?
Yes it could be possible. But I would think by the oil pressure switch
You are great man, thank you very much, I try to follow from part 1 until to part 12, I have landrover Freelander td4 2.0 Diesel, 20t2n, I change the Injector pump electronic pump to fit manual pump, but no getting full leaving, what's going to change to coming right,
I cannot help as this engine did not come to Canada
You said you don’t understand the need to seal the flywheel housing to the block as it doesn’t contain any liquid - well, you want to keep it that way, so sealing the housing will keep water out when wading.
But no sealer on the bellhousing
Britannica Restorations, like the starter motor to flywheel housing, they should have very flat mating faces, so I apply a generous smear of heavy grease to act as a sealant that won’t hold the parts together when I need to separate them. The back of the block and the rear bearing cap aren’t as flat a face as the single piece bell housing and flywheel housing, so the grease won’t work. You also only have to separate the flywheel housing from the block if rebuilding the engine, not for more routine servicing like clutch changes. I think that’s the justification.
I do vaguely recall reading 25+ years ago an instruction to seal the bell housing to flywheel housing on Series vehicles with Hylomar or similar, but I can’t remember if that was a LR manual or somewhere else - does that ring any bells with you? 🤔
I wonder how many engines sustain bottom end damage from people putting unfilled oil filters on when doing oil changes. Someone once tried to convince me that it was ok not to pre fill the filter, but the sound of bearings "hammering" on start up is enough proof for me.
Correct - does not take long to damage shell bearings
But filling the filter, through the “out” port.
There is undeniable risk of introducing foreign contaminants- after the filter-
Trapping any dust/dirt inside the bearings.
I think it’s better to spin the oil pump to bring pressure.
That way you are filtering ALL the oil
And the “hammering” of changing oil without pre filling filter is NOT bearings.
It’s clatter from hydronic lifters.
If you hear bearings banging around it’s already a lost cause.
@@fastinradfordable I have always pre filled the filters as Mike did, (it's good practice), I use the oil from the bottle that I'm filling the sump from, I've been doing this for 55 years of oil changes, never had a problem. As for the "hammering" with an engine starting up with an empty oil filter there's much more to make noises as well as hydraulic lifters, but not all engines have them, particularly LandRover TDI engines.
did you notice you put a smear of red greas onto the clutch face
I did 😳
After my 2nd Magnetti Poorelli I modified a Bosch alternator to fit. But I am interested in the Hella (even if Chinese). What's the output?
100 amp
Hey mike any idea about LOF clutches ....used their power spring made the clutch much much easier...thinking to buy their clutch ...any idea
I heard they were good but have no experience of them
Britannica Restorations Ltd you should contact them am sure they will send you a trial one 😉...their release bearings are good too
I always prime filters as well. Except when I helped my son with his Nissan TD42T. It has two filters, but the bloody things are upside down! How stupid is that?
You need to invert the vehicle to fit them!
@@BritannicaRestorations Yep. But he was opposed to that idea for some reason.
Mike obudowa kola zamachowego szkiełkowałeś
Egr blanking plate?