Hi mike ,when these were knew they hag a problem with drips ,on the first service they had to replace the seal but throw the gasket and use rtv, T seals were still used. Great video
Mike, wasn’t the theory previously that the seal needs time to close onto the crank and therefore we cannot rely on self alignment. This was the reason for the dowel bolts. The instructions with the seal you used at the time (Victor Reinz) gave details of the dowels and the time required before filling with oil.
Reinz said leave the seal 4 hours before starting, but I remove the plastic retainer/applicator and let it sit a while - then fit the seal and allow it to self align - never had one leak. Read somewhere that the seals were 4mm out of line, so dowels would make them leak more, one would have thought?
I hope not! I’ve used the Reinz Seal & dowel method. I’m some way off running the engine so won’t know for some time. I’ll be gutted if the engine has to come back out. Currently restoring the bulkhead using your frame method, the frame makes the positioning for welding so much easier.
It's funny but in one of the comments someone has replaced 3 seals in a year! IF there is an issue with the seals then the dowels may make the problem worse! I see the TD5 had dowels built into the seal
Have you thought about machining a small recess in the crank face of your seal fitting tool and fitting a small magnet to hold it on the crank while you fit the seal ?
That's interesting. Mind you putting two seals back to back probably doubled the error. Be interesting to put a seal on JP's surface plate to see what the real discrepancy is. At the end of the day 5 thou doesn't really matter with all that jollop squirted on. I'd have thought a paper gasket with Well Seal applied both sides would have done the trick but maybe not. Nice how those aluminum parts clean up in the vapour blaster.
Did you use the tool go get the seal to slide on? I’m fitting a lof clutch and going to fit a turner engineering modified seal. Just want to know if you need a tool to get the seal over the crank. Thanks
Just replaced the 3rd one in a year have put it down to too much endfloat but not convinced, Thinking machine the 300ally housing to take a 200tdi seal but as you said it's abit thin at the bottom
Yes it is the housing that is the issue. I heard a theory that it is the hot turbo return oil that is the main issue. The Td5 has a similar seal, but the sump is aluminium and finned allowing better cooling. The Tdi oil cooler in the radiator is a bad design in my opinion
@@BritannicaRestorations The issue I've been having is the seal coming away from the housing and obviously leaks likes a running tap 😂 The 2.8 seal wouldn't help my issue unfortunately
@@BritannicaRestorations Every landy man I've told have said the same😭 Can't see .40 endfloat causing it but hey I've replaced the thrusts and now have .05 will see how it goes🤞
Hey Mike, you do some awesome videos which are great to watch, I also have one of your special clutch arms for when I replace my clutch which rocked up to the UK in very quickly, Thanks, now my question................what sealant did you use on the crank seal? was it the Loctite SI 5980 like I've seen you use on other things or VICTOR-REINZ REINZOSIL which I'm sure I read somewhere or did you use something else? do tell please Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations ok thanks for the good quality tip ; ) another question for you, any idea what the torque setting is for the clutch arm pivot pin / release bearing runner mount that is on the R380 box, had a look in the manual but can't find it : (
@@BritannicaRestorations I think what George was referring to is letting it dry a little bit before tightening in an attempt to have more pressure between the seal housing and the block. So as when it warps, the sealant does a better job at filling in the gap then if it was of the original thickness. Does that make sense and, would it work any better?
Mike, i have this job coming up to do pretty soon. Which of the seals do you recommend? ps It'll give me a chance to use your dismantling tool the wife got me for Christmas.
If you can find one, get the HS2.8 seal with the 2 x extra bolts - you will have to drill and tap thread for it to fit, but worth it I think Turners sell them
Hi mike ,when these were knew they hag a problem with drips ,on the first service they had to replace the seal but throw the gasket and use rtv, T seals were still used. Great video
I never use T seals - just fill the cavity with RTV
@@BritannicaRestorations did my disco t seals with rtv 4 years ago and still dry
Mike, wasn’t the theory previously that the seal needs time to close onto the crank and therefore we cannot rely on self alignment. This was the reason for the dowel bolts. The instructions with the seal you used at the time (Victor Reinz) gave details of the dowels and the time required before filling with oil.
Reinz said leave the seal 4 hours before starting, but I remove the plastic retainer/applicator and let it sit a while - then fit the seal and allow it to self align - never had one leak.
Read somewhere that the seals were 4mm out of line, so dowels would make them leak more, one would have thought?
I hope not! I’ve used the Reinz Seal & dowel method. I’m some way off running the engine so won’t know for some time. I’ll be gutted if the engine has to come back out.
Currently restoring the bulkhead using your frame method, the frame makes the positioning for welding so much easier.
It's funny but in one of the comments someone has replaced 3 seals in a year! IF there is an issue with the seals then the dowels may make the problem worse!
I see the TD5 had dowels built into the seal
Have you thought about machining a small recess in the crank face of your seal fitting tool and fitting a small magnet to hold it on the crank while you fit the seal ?
Good idea!
Putting the new seal on without a gasket moves the sealing lip forward, a few thou, and onto a new sealing surface..
En Argentina usamos el sello Genuino MWM Power Stroke 2.8. Tiene 2 Tornillos más en la parte inferior. Es la solución definitiva..
Lo sé, pero no son fáciles de encontrar.
Hello Mike, I can look in Argentinia , no Problem, give me time
That's interesting. Mind you putting two seals back to back probably doubled the error. Be interesting to put a seal on JP's surface plate to see what the real discrepancy is. At the end of the day 5 thou doesn't really matter with all that jollop squirted on. I'd have thought a paper gasket with Well Seal applied both sides would have done the trick but maybe not. Nice how those aluminum parts clean up in the vapour blaster.
The paper seals do nothing much - better success following the LR update with no gasket and RTV sealer
Turner engineering in UK got an upgrade in the seal, 2 môre bolts at the bottom
I know, but I have something in mind that is better
Hi Mike, please share. Ons lees leak mutch appreciated😂😂 regards Joos
Did you use the tool go get the seal to slide on? I’m fitting a lof clutch and going to fit a turner engineering modified seal. Just want to know if you need a tool to get the seal over the crank. Thanks
Just replaced the 3rd one in a year have put it down to too much endfloat but not convinced,
Thinking machine the 300ally housing to take a 200tdi seal but as you said it's abit thin at the bottom
Yes it is the housing that is the issue. I heard a theory that it is the hot turbo return oil that is the main issue. The Td5 has a similar seal, but the sump is aluminium and finned allowing better cooling.
The Tdi oil cooler in the radiator is a bad design in my opinion
@@BritannicaRestorations
The issue I've been having is the seal coming away from the housing and obviously leaks likes a running tap 😂
The 2.8 seal wouldn't help my issue unfortunately
Never had that happen!
@@BritannicaRestorations
Every landy man I've told have said the same😭
Can't see .40 endfloat causing it but hey I've replaced the thrusts and now have .05 will see how it goes🤞
That is a lot of end float - are you sure the crank or block is not damaged?
Hey Mike, you do some awesome videos which are great to watch, I also have one of your special clutch arms for when I replace my clutch which rocked up to the UK in very quickly, Thanks, now my question................what sealant did you use on the crank seal? was it the Loctite SI 5980 like I've seen you use on other things or VICTOR-REINZ REINZOSIL which I'm sure I read somewhere or did you use something else? do tell please Mike
Loctite SI 5980
@@BritannicaRestorations Thank you kindly young man for the uber quick reply
Thanks! Remember, no gasket is needed and fit the seal DRY onto the crank - any lube on there will make it leak!
@@BritannicaRestorations ok thanks for the good quality tip ; ) another question for you, any idea what the torque setting is for the clutch arm pivot pin / release bearing runner mount that is on the R380 box, had a look in the manual but can't find it : (
Hi Mike, what about letting the bead dry before tightening the bolts?
Sealer dries with no air
@@BritannicaRestorations I think what George was referring to is letting it dry a little bit before tightening in an attempt to have more pressure between the seal housing and the block. So as when it warps, the sealant does a better job at filling in the gap then if it was of the original thickness. Does that make sense and, would it work any better?
🐨Nice one Sherlock 🔍 great video & great comment's from your subscribers 👍
💂
Thank you kindly
Have you ever fitted the 2.8 crank seal Mike? I’ve got one to go in my defender got it with my clutch kit from a supplier I’m good friends with
No but they are easy to fit
Beautifully engineered motor all round, then they design the shonkiest of oil seals on such a fundamentally important part of the engine.
Muppets.
Land Rover accounting running the job instead of the engineering dept
Did I miss a video of you stripping the 300tdi or have you just not posted it yet?
Not posted yet
What’s the most common failure? Is it the gasket or the seal itself? Cheers Mike.
The seal housing warps
The real question is - where are the yellow bags made?
UK! LOL!
Taiwan 😂
Mike, i have this job coming up to do pretty soon. Which of the seals do you recommend? ps It'll give me a chance to use your dismantling tool the wife got me for Christmas.
If you can find one, get the HS2.8 seal with the 2 x extra bolts - you will have to drill and tap thread for it to fit, but worth it
I think Turners sell them
@@BritannicaRestorations Many thanks, just ordered the HS2.8 seal, LOF sells the same seal made by MWM.
Who made, and where can I purchase the crank seal install tool you have?
JP made it as a 0ne off
Is it same for 200tdi engine
no
I co szkoda że nie ze stalowej blachy.
Wkrótce będą!
@@BritannicaRestorations ok