NEW! My own Subscription/Donation service at affordable rates! britrest.com/subscriptions/ Special tools, stickers and old stock parts! www.britrest.com/shop www.paypal.me/britrest2018
you probably dont care at all but does anyone know of a way to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Lewis Brantley i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Building an engine must be the closest that a man can get to giving birth. I cant wait to hear it start up and come to life, just like a living, breathing thing. Great video Mike, made me think of the old bloke that taught me all this stuff over 60,years ago in a garage under the railways arches of my local town. You could tell that he had worked on plane engines during the war. MAGIC!!!!!. Yorkshire Rob.
You learn by mistakes Rob! I once spent a fortune on a Triumph Dolomite Sprint engine rebuild back in the day and when i fitted the oil filter I didn't realise the paper gasket on the top of the cartridge had come lose and cut the oil flow to the crank -even though the oil light went out - lasted 15 miles!
See, this is the sort of stuff that a lot of people don't know they don't know. Buy a bunch of parts off the interweb, throw them together and everything will probably work reasonably well. Spend the extra time tidying things up properly and it all has an cumulative benefit on the finished engine. Still kind of funny to see "race car" preparation on a 300tdi though. Reminds me... Worst job I ever did was rebuilt a Jaguar V12 for a Cobra replica. There wasn't anything especially difficult about it but, lordy, porting 12 inlets, seating 12 sets of valves, balancing 12 conrods and pistons, doing 12 sets of tappets etc was the most laborious thing I've ever done! After that, it was about 3 years before I was ready to work on an engine again.
Friend of mine many years ago who rebuilt RR engines ( from the Ghost era) told me he could stand a penny on the engine while it was running - not so easy with a diesel but a target to aim for!
Absolutely amazing and satisfying to watch you doing those delicate jobs with such a patience and care. That´s great! Anyway, I´m getting a bit lost with all the different oils, grease and lubricants you use in all your jobs. Maybe could be interesting a video explaining the different products you use and the purpose of each one, based on their properties! Cheers!!
You also put the circlips in sharp side facing out the way, so they're less likely to pop out. You'll find most circlips have a sharp edge and a rounded edge from when they were stamped out.
Loads of skill and knowledge at work there. Fascinating to watch things come together. That engine is going to purr like a kitten when you turn that starter. Cheers Mike, top stuff.
Great vid!! I was told by the same old race car mechanic that the snap rings are sided. One side has a rounded edge and the other the sharp edge. He told me to always put the sharp crisp edge outwards so it’s more difficult for it to pop out.
Your right there, Circlips particularly the smaller one's are stamped out of steel sheet or strap, the larger one's which i used to make are coiled on a lathe then stamped on a press, the downstoke produces the rounded edge and the base is where it lets go producing the sharp.
I’m impressed with the methodology in which you use to rebuild it great 👍 British thoroughly through and through. The chap who’s engine it is needs to realise it and respect ✊ the proper process as mechanics like yourself are getting thinner on the ground these days nice 👍 job my son respect ✊ from west London
Britannica Restorations Ltd knowing what the rest of the the vehicle which you have not replaced so far might be like ?.I am truly in no doubt that anything vibrates and then it falls apart strong 💪 feeling that is negative 👎 when it’s down to the people that where servicing beforehand
Britannica Restorations Ltd personally I think he was very very much in god’s hands from the moment he started driving the bloody thing before you got to inspect it before hand 🖐 as nobody with even two brain cells to rub together could say it was safe for the public highway. Even by Stevie wonders standards of tyre kickings
Nary to worry Mike, its allways gets nippy when skiing the slopes ;) . Great job mate. Coming together better than a swiss time piece. Cheers for sharing... and giving us all a severe case of envy :)
Hi great video, you must trust your machine shop not checking the ring gaps and big end journal clearance, just building a sumbeam s8 motorcycle engine ( nice and light ) and thinking of building a landrover 127" camper 300 tdi based keep up the good videos
Had to have a cup of Yorkshire tea and have a think about the circlips on the wrist pins. As I see it, and I am really only an expert in drinking tea, as the piston and rod hit top and bottom dead centre, the piston travelling at high speed suddenly stops and it forces the circlip to compress downwards or upwards. If it is installed at 90 degree to the conrod, it could compress and pop out. Yes, I know fella's, I need to get out a bit more but I have been in lockdown.
Hey Mike, nice to see a master at work. BTW I have been using WD for 30 years or so to run the rings in on the bore, causes an engine that does not use oil at all and a proper seal therefore good compression, before running I spray WD in again for initial lubrication, works a treat.
Interesting for the WD40 - on many engines I build they are not fitted for a long time WD40 evaporates too quick for my liking and I like the oil to help the piston slide out of the compressor
That s going to be one of the smoothest 300Tdi in the world, interesting to see the differemnces between my Defender spec 200Tdi & the 300Tdi, I rebuilt my 200Tdi 2 years ago, it was 24 years old with 390,000 miles to its credit. That 300 should last at least 20 years before it needs major work again. unless the owner seriously abuses it & neglects oil changes.
Interesting you noted that you modified your ring compressor... mine is also a relatively cheap one, but already had little V shaped projections on the bottom to prevent going into the bore... I always thought that was standard for any of the ring compressors. Interesting to see the big end bearing shells not as wide as the face on the conrod... why would that be?? I would have thought they would want to utilize the maximum width for maximum bearing surface.
The pistons on Tdi are wider on the skirt and as the compressor is thin spring steel, in the early days the compressor would drop into the bore when hitting the piston Sorted now Bearings - they are the same as the old 2.25 in dimension
The bearings need to be a little narrower than the rod big end to account for the radius or fillet on the crank journals where they meet the webs - if the journals were machined with sharp corners, they’d cause fatigue cracks.
Fantastic work, Mike. I saw how you measure each end of the rods’ mass to prepare for balancing, but could to explain in a little more detail how and where you remove material, and show how much or how little material is involved per gram? Do you ever hone bores (for deglazing or general cleaning up, rather than removing steps or scores) yourself, or do you send all locks away to the shop? What about honing with the block in situ? How practical is that? I need to do that at some point as I think mine are glazed (giving high blow by and oil burn), but most UA-cam videos on the matter are very glib and don’t cover which grade of stones to use or any useful detail on technique. Even taking bore measurements is a confusing activity to read up on. Any hints or tips would be greatly appreciated, and if you get a quiet period (I hope you don’t, from a business perspective), a video of a single bore being done would be a huge help (I suspect I can’t be the only one in this situation, given how many people are trying to keep older LRs going without spending large sums at shops like Turner or ACR, as worthy as their charges are for the quality of their work).
The cylinders were honed at the machine shop - I chose them as they have a fancy machine they clamp the block to the mains in place of the crank, and then everything is square to the crank, that is why the can deck the block parallel to the crank In the old days they clamped a machine to the block to bore it, but if there is a deflection in the block then the bore will not be 100% square I will show how to balance rods later when I get a bit more time
Really enjoying seeing a 'proper' engine rebuild using old-school skills Mike, that diesel should run very smoothly indeed! One query please... what brand is the ratchet click-signal torque wrench? Seems compact and handy vs some others.
I have 3 ratchet torque wrenches - 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 first 2 are Tekton from Amazon and they are quite good, the 1/2 is an old Mastercraft one but hard to see the numbers now - I may use subscribers money to get a digital one next
great stuff , hope when you said I have broken rings before when installing , wasn’t because you forgot to check ring gaps in the bores before installing on the pistons . I know from experience , because its new its not always correct size .
I broke oil rings as I didn't hit them hard and fast enough - the skirt is wider than the ring area - so if you are slow, the rings can expand and catch on the block
ok , but as many people watch your great rebuild , I just think many things are missing . ring gaps in the bores must always be checked before installation . I’ve filed many a rings to give the correct clearance , using ring file tool
Had a circlip come out in a Harley Engine once, The Gudgeon Pin milled the cylinder bore a nice trench, You should have seen the smoke,lol. The Circlip finished up in the oil pump, all nicely cropped into pieces by the gear's and stowed away in a chamber, Needles to say! total rebuild with new cylinders and pistons etc.
Hello Mike. Thank you for your videos they are very helpful. I have a question, when I was cleaning the pistons, the degreaser... Remove piston coating from the side skirt. that black gray layer. Can I still get the pistons? to use ?. without running any major risks? Kind regards from a Dutchman from southern France Ragnar Hetterschij . 1:38
Hello Mike. Thank you for your videos they are very helpful. I have a question, when I was cleaning the pistons, the degreaser... Remove piston coating from the side skirt. that black gray layer. Can I still get the pistons? to use ?. without running any major risks? Kind regards from a Dutchman from southern France Ragnar Hetterschij .
That is an anti friction coating - many engines I have stripped have a little of this remaining, but I do not think that it affects anything - we are talking hundredths of a mm!
Hello Mike. Thank you. In one of your other great videos you talked about camshaft bearings. There is a company in England that supplies pre-finished camshaft bearings. so a DIY job. no line drilling required. they made the hole in the bearing on the distribution side smaller. which continues to the head. to maintain higher oil pressure in the lower portion of the engine. very thought out. I am unable to send the link via UA-cam. Normally I wash my parts in a part cleaner with some kind of turpentine-like product. but I was with someone who lived far away, so I did the work there. with a degreaser that you spray on the parts, let it soak in and rinse off with water. the pistons were supper clean and the coating disappeared. the wrong degreaser can cause damage. Thank you . regards Ragnar Hetterschij
Have u ever tryed janitol altrans. To clean all the carbon off parts... I use it in work on a wire edm and we just leave parts in the solution for 5-10 and all the carbon has come off by its self and its safe on ally. Probably alot better then oven cleaner
Morning, first of all thanks for the videos and the knowledge you’re sharing with us all the time. Regarding of this video, I have rebuilt my 300 tdi watching your videos and wanted to know if you could give me some tips for the break-in after rebuilding. What do you recommend? An specifical break in oil or just normal one for 1000-1500kms and then replace oil and filter? And finally what about rpm range during this process? 1000-2500rpm an driving soft? Thanks for all, have a nice day.
In the old days of running in, I used a straight 30w, oil not a multigrade The Tdi blocks seem to be made of better materials, and I just use 15w40 oil now They take a long time to settle down! I have had brand new 300Tdi's here and do not seem to be 'free' until they have done about 60,000km! I have a block in my shop at the moment 400,000km and you can still see the honing marks!
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks for your answer, that’s sounds good, finally I just bought an specifical break in engine oil which will run for 1000kms and then will take it easy. Thanks for all, have a nice weekend.
ALSO he needs to get off your back and be greatfull that you don’t just throw it up in a couple of days without having you do the checks and balances especially with pistons and rod’s
NEW! My own Subscription/Donation service at affordable rates!
britrest.com/subscriptions/
Special tools, stickers and old stock parts!
www.britrest.com/shop
www.paypal.me/britrest2018
you probably dont care at all but does anyone know of a way to log back into an instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Ronin Omari Instablaster ;)
@Lewis Brantley i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Lewis Brantley It worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my ass :D
@Ronin Omari you are welcome :D
Also, it's so satisfying to see an engine go back together so clean, old-school pride in workmanship...
Building an engine must be the closest that a man can get to giving birth. I cant wait to hear it start up and come to life, just like a living, breathing thing. Great video Mike, made me think of the old bloke that taught me all this stuff over 60,years ago in a garage under the railways arches of my local town. You could tell that he had worked on plane engines during the war. MAGIC!!!!!. Yorkshire Rob.
You learn by mistakes Rob!
I once spent a fortune on a Triumph Dolomite Sprint engine rebuild back in the day and when i fitted the oil filter I didn't realise the paper gasket on the top of the cartridge had come lose and cut the oil flow to the crank -even though the oil light went out - lasted 15 miles!
See, this is the sort of stuff that a lot of people don't know they don't know.
Buy a bunch of parts off the interweb, throw them together and everything will probably work reasonably well.
Spend the extra time tidying things up properly and it all has an cumulative benefit on the finished engine.
Still kind of funny to see "race car" preparation on a 300tdi though.
Reminds me...
Worst job I ever did was rebuilt a Jaguar V12 for a Cobra replica.
There wasn't anything especially difficult about it but, lordy, porting 12 inlets, seating 12 sets of valves, balancing 12 conrods and pistons, doing 12 sets of tappets etc was the most laborious thing I've ever done!
After that, it was about 3 years before I was ready to work on an engine again.
Friend of mine many years ago who rebuilt RR engines ( from the Ghost era) told me he could stand a penny on the engine while it was running - not so easy with a diesel but a target to aim for!
Never even thought about piston weight being balanced before, that engine is going to be sweet 👍
I hope so!
Absolutely amazing and satisfying to watch you doing those delicate jobs with such a patience and care. That´s great! Anyway, I´m getting a bit lost with all the different oils, grease and lubricants you use in all your jobs. Maybe could be interesting a video explaining the different products you use and the purpose of each one, based on their properties! Cheers!!
Yes - a good topic for a winter time video!
Great that Mike, brought back some early memories of fitting pistons /rods to a 998cc mini engine, 👍
You also put the circlips in sharp side facing out the way, so they're less likely to pop out.
You'll find most circlips have a sharp edge and a rounded edge from when they were stamped out.
Nice tip bud thanks
Loads of skill and knowledge at work there. Fascinating to watch things come together. That engine is going to purr like a kitten when you turn that starter.
Cheers Mike, top stuff.
I hope so! My concern is the injection system which is original
Gracias, con media hora de tus vídeos enseñas mejor que muchas horas de lectura, de nuevo gracias. Desde Sevílla, España.
Eres muy bienvenido - gracias!
Great vid!! I was told by the same old race car mechanic that the snap rings are sided. One side has a rounded edge and the other the sharp edge. He told me to always put the sharp crisp edge outwards so it’s more difficult for it to pop out.
Your right there, Circlips particularly the smaller one's are stamped out of steel sheet or strap, the larger one's which i used to make are coiled on a lathe then stamped on a press, the downstoke produces the rounded edge and the base is where it lets go producing the sharp.
Best thing on tele this is.....and a don't even have a proper Landrover. (I have Disco 4 though).
I’m impressed with the methodology in which you use to rebuild it great 👍 British thoroughly through and through. The chap who’s engine it is needs to realise it and respect ✊ the proper process as mechanics like yourself are getting thinner on the ground these days nice 👍 job my son respect ✊ from west London
Thank you Garry! Those pistons would have caused a bit of vibration
Britannica Restorations Ltd knowing what the rest of the the vehicle which you have not replaced so far might be like ?.I am truly in no doubt that anything vibrates and then it falls apart strong 💪 feeling that is negative 👎 when it’s down to the people that where servicing beforehand
Britannica Restorations Ltd personally I think he was very very much in god’s hands from the moment he started driving the bloody thing before you got to inspect it before hand 🖐 as nobody with even two brain cells to rub together could say it was safe for the public highway. Even by Stevie wonders standards of tyre kickings
Yes - this has a very suspect safety inspection! As one comment said, we have the best inspectors money can buy!
Britannica Restorations Ltd all probably going for the cost of a pint in 🇬🇧 too
....incredible attention to detail there Mike...it's nice to see how much pride you have in your work, if only more mechanics had your ethos!
Thanks Paul !
Thanks Mike. Your attention to detail is very impressive. :)
Thanks!
Nary to worry Mike, its allways gets nippy when skiing the slopes ;) .
Great job mate. Coming together better than a swiss time piece. Cheers for sharing... and giving us all a severe case of envy :)
When I was doing this I was wondering how many would strip their partially built motor and have another look!
That Haynes manual has seen more action than a dockside brothel 🙂
lol!
Ha,Ha.
How do you know how much action they have?
What a beauty! I wish my 300TDI looks like that...
This takes me back to my days of working on my 1978 Vauxhall Viva. Fantastic video.
Hi great video, you must trust your machine shop not checking the ring gaps and big end journal clearance, just building a sumbeam s8 motorcycle engine ( nice and light ) and thinking of building a landrover 127" camper 300 tdi based keep up the good videos
Rings are now pre gapped and fitted to pistons
Had to have a cup of Yorkshire tea and have a think about the circlips on the wrist pins.
As I see it, and I am really only an expert in drinking tea, as the piston and rod hit top and bottom dead centre, the piston travelling at high speed suddenly stops and it forces the circlip to compress downwards or upwards.
If it is installed at 90 degree to the conrod, it could compress and pop out.
Yes, I know fella's, I need to get out a bit more but I have been in lockdown.
Love your memory stick,if you love landrovers, get one.
Excellent Fred! I had some issues with the early sticks, but they are corrected now - bad batch of sticks
Mike
G'Day Mike
Thanks for the video matey. Straight forward as always with a dash of lube for the holes! :D
Perk of the job!
Great Video Mike!!
Hey Mike, nice to see a master at work. BTW I have been using WD for 30 years or so to run the rings in on the bore, causes an engine that does not use oil at all and a proper seal therefore good compression, before running I spray WD in again for initial lubrication, works a treat.
Interesting for the WD40 - on many engines I build they are not fitted for a long time WD40 evaporates too quick for my liking and I like the oil to help the piston slide out of the compressor
@@BritannicaRestorations fair enough
Totally fascinating. Thanks Mike.
That s going to be one of the smoothest 300Tdi in the world, interesting to see the differemnces between my Defender spec 200Tdi & the 300Tdi, I rebuilt my 200Tdi 2 years ago, it was 24 years old with 390,000 miles to its credit. That 300 should last at least 20 years before it needs major work again. unless the owner seriously abuses it & neglects oil changes.
Loved that one Mike. Nice to do clean new mechaniching aint it.
It really is a treat not to cut corners!
Interesting you noted that you modified your ring compressor... mine is also a relatively cheap one, but already had little V shaped projections on the bottom to prevent going into the bore... I always thought that was standard for any of the ring compressors. Interesting to see the big end bearing shells not as wide as the face on the conrod... why would that be?? I would have thought they would want to utilize the maximum width for maximum bearing surface.
The pistons on Tdi are wider on the skirt and as the compressor is thin spring steel, in the early days the compressor would drop into the bore when hitting the piston
Sorted now
Bearings - they are the same as the old 2.25 in dimension
The bearings need to be a little narrower than the rod big end to account for the radius or fillet on the crank journals where they meet the webs - if the journals were machined with sharp corners, they’d cause fatigue cracks.
Seen clip to come out once in a Toyota 2.4 hiace diesel made a right mess of the bore
Fantastic work, Mike. I saw how you measure each end of the rods’ mass to prepare for balancing, but could to explain in a little more detail how and where you remove material, and show how much or how little material is involved per gram?
Do you ever hone bores (for deglazing or general cleaning up, rather than removing steps or scores) yourself, or do you send all locks away to the shop? What about honing with the block in situ? How practical is that? I need to do that at some point as I think mine are glazed (giving high blow by and oil burn), but most UA-cam videos on the matter are very glib and don’t cover which grade of stones to use or any useful detail on technique. Even taking bore measurements is a confusing activity to read up on. Any hints or tips would be greatly appreciated, and if you get a quiet period (I hope you don’t, from a business perspective), a video of a single bore being done would be a huge help (I suspect I can’t be the only one in this situation, given how many people are trying to keep older LRs going without spending large sums at shops like Turner or ACR, as worthy as their charges are for the quality of their work).
The cylinders were honed at the machine shop - I chose them as they have a fancy machine they clamp the block to the mains in place of the crank, and then everything is square to the crank, that is why the can deck the block parallel to the crank
In the old days they clamped a machine to the block to bore it, but if there is a deflection in the block then the bore will not be 100% square
I will show how to balance rods later when I get a bit more time
Gloopy oil; "perques of the job"; what more can a man ask for? 😀
Sorry, in this video you say to tighten the connecting rod pins to 79 Nm?. or I misunderstood!
Really enjoying seeing a 'proper' engine rebuild using old-school skills Mike, that diesel should run very smoothly indeed!
One query please... what brand is the ratchet click-signal torque wrench? Seems compact and handy vs some others.
I have 3 ratchet torque wrenches - 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 first 2 are Tekton from Amazon and they are quite good, the 1/2 is an old Mastercraft one but hard to see the numbers now - I may use subscribers money to get a digital one next
Forgotten that major difference between the 200 and 300, 300 oil pump in the cover.
After that, very much the same build style
great stuff , hope when you said I have broken rings before when installing , wasn’t because you forgot to check ring gaps in the bores before installing on the pistons . I know from experience , because its new its not always correct size .
I broke oil rings as I didn't hit them hard and fast enough - the skirt is wider than the ring area - so if you are slow, the rings can expand and catch on the block
ok , but as many people watch your great rebuild , I just think many things are missing . ring gaps in the bores must always be checked before installation . I’ve filed many a rings to give the correct clearance , using ring file tool
Had a circlip come out in a Harley Engine once, The Gudgeon Pin milled the cylinder bore a nice trench, You should have seen the smoke,lol. The Circlip finished up in the oil pump, all nicely cropped into pieces by the gear's and stowed away in a chamber, Needles to say! total rebuild with new cylinders and pistons etc.
Hello Mike. Thank you for your videos they are very helpful. I have a question, when I was cleaning the pistons, the degreaser... Remove piston coating from the side skirt. that black gray layer. Can I still get the pistons? to use ?. without running any major risks? Kind regards from a Dutchman from southern France Ragnar Hetterschij .
1:38
Hello Mike. Thank you for your videos they are very helpful. I have a question, when I was cleaning the pistons, the degreaser... Remove piston coating from the side skirt. that black gray layer. Can I still get the pistons? to use ?. without running any major risks? Kind regards from a Dutchman from southern France Ragnar Hetterschij .
That is an anti friction coating - many engines I have stripped have a little of this remaining, but I do not think that it affects anything - we are talking hundredths of a mm!
Hello Mike. Thank you. In one of your other great videos you talked about camshaft bearings. There is a company in England that supplies pre-finished camshaft bearings. so a DIY job. no line drilling required. they made the hole in the bearing on the distribution side smaller. which continues to the head. to maintain higher oil pressure in the lower portion of the engine. very thought out. I am unable to send the link via UA-cam. Normally I wash my parts in a part cleaner with some kind of turpentine-like product. but I was with someone who lived far away, so I did the work there. with a degreaser that you spray on the parts, let it soak in and rinse off with water. the pistons were supper clean and the coating disappeared. the wrong degreaser can cause damage. Thank you . regards Ragnar Hetterschij
Have u ever tryed janitol altrans. To clean all the carbon off parts... I use it in work on a wire edm and we just leave parts in the solution for 5-10 and all the carbon has come off by its self and its safe on ally. Probably alot better then oven cleaner
Nothing like that in Canada as far as I know
Mike, you state 79Nm for the bearing caps. Manual states 59Nm. Which do you normally use?
Sorry should be 59Nm
Can the rear main bearing be replaced with the engine in place? Tdi
Not practical, as you will disturb the sealing of the rear crank seal face
She'll run like a sewing machine, Mike!
Don't worry Dave - I will put a hand full of marbles in the sump...
lol!
what brand are these pistons
or do you use?
These were OEM pistons - Made in Turkey now
Hey mike do you replace conrod bolts and nuts upon rebuilds?
No, but I do Loctite the nuts
Morning, first of all thanks for the videos and the knowledge you’re sharing with us all the time. Regarding of this video, I have rebuilt my 300 tdi watching your videos and wanted to know if you could give me some tips for the break-in after rebuilding. What do you recommend? An specifical break in oil or just normal one for 1000-1500kms and then replace oil and filter? And finally what about rpm range during this process? 1000-2500rpm an driving soft? Thanks for all, have a nice day.
In the old days of running in, I used a straight 30w, oil not a multigrade
The Tdi blocks seem to be made of better materials, and I just use 15w40 oil now
They take a long time to settle down!
I have had brand new 300Tdi's here and do not seem to be 'free' until they have done about 60,000km!
I have a block in my shop at the moment 400,000km and you can still see the honing marks!
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks for your answer, that’s sounds good, finally I just bought an specifical break in engine oil which will run for 1000kms and then will take it easy. Thanks for all, have a nice weekend.
I love a nice tight fit too! It'll be a nice tight sweet engine once done :)
It’s a pity you didn’t have the space for an engine and transmission room mike
Getting too old to buy a bigger building now Graham - property here is getting expensive now
👍👍
ALSO he needs to get off your back and be greatfull that you don’t just throw it up in a couple of days without having you do the checks and balances especially with pistons and rod’s
I’ve found out who sold that vehicle. A company called Bodgit and Leggit. 🙈🙏🏽🙏🏽
If you love Defenders, watch this:
ua-cam.com/video/3tjpEwWnrtU/v-deo.html