NEW! My own Subscription/Donation service at affordable rates! britrest.com/subscriptions/ Special tools, stickers and old stock parts! www.britrest.com/shop www.paypal.me/britrest2018
Great tip on the mounting studs! I must remember that for one day I have to do this. Great to see that I'm not the only one that have to do this type of stuff alone. That attachment between the hoist and the engine makes life so much easier. I think I have to make one. Have an awesome day.
I once worked in a shop that had a gantry type overhead crane. Best engine lift ever, but you rarely see them in mechanical shops. Those wheel cranes are a PITA.
It's a good design as it folds easy but the right leg catches the tyre - some modifications needed, including an air over oil ram instead of a hand pump
I had to chuckle when you mentioned the dowels ... had that exact issue when changing my gearbox and transfer box, ...they were from different vehicles and i didn’t realise that both had dowels in the same hole took a while to figure out why it wouldn’t bolt up.... but luckily a sharp blow with a cold chisel soon removed one dowel.
Was watching you grease the gearbox shaft splines and was starting to get the heeby jeebies until you wiped most of it off again. Never underestimate the effect of centrifugal forces! If you've got excess grease anywhere in there, it WILL work it's way onto the friction plate eventually. I always think you're better off deliberately letting an engine hoist down too far and then gradually lifting it back up again to fit the engine. It's much easier to lift the hoist UP accurately than it is to let it down. Seems like you've got it under control, though. Those chain adjusters seem to help a lot too.
Once you use a balance beam you will never use simple chains again -as you saw slipped right in, first take no practising prior - but take the studs out of the mounting - that bell-housing was as far up as it would go as the studs catch the chassis mounts
I had this very half engaged clutch fault. Pulled clutch out and no obvious issues. New cylinders, rod, ball, release fork, clutch and bearing was not taking chances
Another great video Mike. Quick question, if the pushrod has to match the slave cylinder, how do you change the pushrod and attach the end with the motor in? I know there’s gonna be a trick, and you’re the man to have it!
The wife just shouted that a brew was ready. I shouted back that I was just watching Mike wire wool his balls, I dont know what she shouted back but it had the word pervert in it and dirty boy. Nice one Mike. Yorkshire Rob.
Mike, have you set the injection timing up with a dial gauge on this engine ? I found in practice that just timing the pump on the timing pin wasn’t very accurate, I only had 1.28mm lift with the timing pin.
Britannica Restorations Ltd well done Mike! I found the best lift pump is the Delphi one with the gauze strainer, fitted with the 5mm spacer between the pump and block makes the best job 👍🏻 I know you have to use what you’ve got where you are! They always start well even with the injection timing well off, I always set them up with the dial gauge now to 1.6mm if the pump hasn’t been messed with. Last one I did the customer had owned the thing for 15years and said it had never gone so well! Happy customers pay bills quickly 👍🏻
@@BritannicaRestorations yeah - not fun. Then had to find someone able to weld aluminium to fix it afterwards. Experience is a painful teacher sometimes!
Clutch forks, as you know, get punched through by the pivot ball. We are supplied with forks that have a steel strip welded across. How do you strengthen the forks that you use ? Thanks.
britrest.com/product/super-duty-clutch-fork/ or DIY and cheap shipping britrest.com/product/hd-clutch-bush-kit-for-do-it-yourself-fitting/ Sold about 800 forks over 15 years!
Nice job mike. Good information on the Gearbox. I have got a question for you the black retaining clip holding the pushrod. To the fork. Do you need to have that clip to hold. Push rod in place. I watched your video how to change the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder. When I took The slave cylinder off there was no retaining clip Holding it in place. I have Tried always to put the clip on without taking the gearbox out put it all back together with the new sleeve cylinder on without the clip and it seems to be working fine what is your advice thank you very much
stefan mazur the clips just there to hold the pushrod in place to fit the slave cylinder, u can do it without the clip, just tricky to hold it in the clutch fork and fit the slave at the same time. Once it’s in it can’t go anywhere and is fine. Mine dropped out once doing it an fell in the bell housing 🙈 gearbox back off not recommended. Just be careful if u ever have to change the slave that it doesn’t drop out into the bell housing.(long nose pliers) 👍
Dave Jones thank you very much for that. That what happened to me as well. Manage to get it out with a magnet stick. Then I hel it in please and then fitted the new slave cylinder. On it is all working fine 👍🏾
Hi Mike just out of interest when are you going to be finishing off that maroon classic Rang Rover it will be winter soon and you will not be able to find it in the snow.
Mike - hope you can help here - you made a comment about slaves and push rods, done clutches and hydraulics on my Land Rovers for decades and I think I may have the mismatch now you mention it, I never payed it any attention, but I had an issue with a new Ashcroft box and new slave where I found my clutch slave needed shimming out as I felt it was always making contact, I noted you can get shims so assumed, well they sell them, I obviously need them, I shimmed it out with 2 shims, made the cutch position horrible but solved the issue. I now suspect that actually I have a mismatch, do you have details, measurements and part no's so I can sort a matched pair and sort this or at least check what I have.
NEW! My own Subscription/Donation service at affordable rates!
britrest.com/subscriptions/
Special tools, stickers and old stock parts!
www.britrest.com/shop
www.paypal.me/britrest2018
You made that look so easy. It’s easy to forget what big heavy lumps engine and gearboxes are!
Stud removal great idea, I've always sealed the bell housing with a bit of silicone, keeps water and oil out
....come on Mike, admit it.....that was the 59th take and some slick editing to get that in so smoothly!
And i had a stunt double!
@@BritannicaRestorations 😂😂😂
Great tip on the mounting studs! I must remember that for one day I have to do this.
Great to see that I'm not the only one that have to do this type of stuff alone. That attachment between the hoist and the engine makes life so much easier. I think I have to make one.
Have an awesome day.
They are not too expensive to buy
www.amazon.co.uk/Engine-Leveller-Loading-Balancer-Workshop/dp/B07TR3CBT5
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks, I appreciate the link. Building stuff keeps me out of trouble and the brain active.
G'Day Mike.
Well done matey, nice clean install. Pleasure to watch.
Cheers!
I once worked in a shop that had a gantry type overhead crane. Best engine lift ever, but you rarely see them in mechanical shops. Those wheel cranes are a PITA.
It's a good design as it folds easy but the right leg catches the tyre - some modifications needed, including an air over oil ram instead of a hand pump
I had to chuckle when you mentioned the dowels ... had that exact issue when changing my gearbox and transfer box, ...they were from different vehicles and i didn’t realise that both had dowels in the same hole took a while to figure out why it wouldn’t bolt up.... but luckily a sharp blow with a cold chisel soon removed one dowel.
Yeap we have all been there - that is why |I mentioned it!
In like Flynn...a pleasure as always mate 👍👍
Thanks 👍
Superb Work Mike. How very professional. 👍🏻😊
Thank you! Cheers!
SPOT ON.
I can't wait for the moment, that moment 😁😁
Was watching you grease the gearbox shaft splines and was starting to get the heeby jeebies until you wiped most of it off again.
Never underestimate the effect of centrifugal forces!
If you've got excess grease anywhere in there, it WILL work it's way onto the friction plate eventually.
I always think you're better off deliberately letting an engine hoist down too far and then gradually lifting it back up again to fit the engine.
It's much easier to lift the hoist UP accurately than it is to let it down.
Seems like you've got it under control, though.
Those chain adjusters seem to help a lot too.
Once you use a balance beam you will never use simple chains again -as you saw slipped right in, first take no practising prior - but take the studs out of the mounting - that bell-housing was as far up as it would go as the studs catch the chassis mounts
Taking the studs out of the engine mounts is a work of genius
The gearbox was as high as it will go, but the studs foul the chassis mountings - by removing them the engine just slides right in with no tears
Nice work again 👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
There's an owner somewhere getting as excited as a kid on Dec 20. ... Five sleeps left..
i know its a multinational engine but probably better than one that came out of the LR factory. dave&lisa south wales uk
Hope so - the injection system has not been touched and I have a feeling the radiator is suspect
Britannica Restorations Ltd leave that alone mike it’s Bosch 😂👍
I had this very half engaged clutch fault. Pulled clutch out and no obvious issues. New cylinders, rod, ball, release fork, clutch and bearing was not taking chances
Another great video Mike. Quick question, if the pushrod has to match the slave cylinder, how do you change the pushrod and attach the end with the motor in? I know there’s gonna be a trick, and you’re the man to have it!
You are supposed to change the cylinder to match the gearbox number
Amy Winehouse sang about getting the angle right. I'm sure she was singing about replacing LR engines!!
Probably explains why she drank herself to death too!
The wife just shouted that a brew was ready. I shouted back that I was just watching Mike wire wool his balls, I dont know what she shouted back but it had the word pervert in it and dirty boy. Nice one Mike. Yorkshire Rob.
Not often seen on UA-cam!
Mike, have you set the injection timing up with a dial gauge on this engine ?
I found in practice that just timing the pump on the timing pin wasn’t very accurate, I only had 1.28mm lift with the timing pin.
I eventually got it running as there was a lift pump problem - starts right on the button now
Britannica Restorations Ltd well done Mike!
I found the best lift pump is the Delphi one with the gauze strainer, fitted with the 5mm spacer between the pump and block makes the best job 👍🏻 I know you have to use what you’ve got where you are!
They always start well even with the injection timing well off, I always set them up with the dial gauge now to 1.6mm if the pump hasn’t been messed with. Last one I did the customer had owned the thing for 15years and said it had never gone so well! Happy customers pay bills quickly 👍🏻
Re the dowels - yeah we did that. 😣 Cracked the casting as it was getting darker and we didn't notice it. Working outside ftl.
Lol! You too eh?
@@BritannicaRestorations yeah - not fun. Then had to find someone able to weld aluminium to fix it afterwards. Experience is a painful teacher sometimes!
Clutch forks, as you know, get punched through by the pivot ball.
We are supplied with forks that have a steel strip welded across. How do you strengthen the forks that you use ? Thanks.
britrest.com/product/super-duty-clutch-fork/
or DIY and cheap shipping
britrest.com/product/hd-clutch-bush-kit-for-do-it-yourself-fitting/
Sold about 800 forks over 15 years!
Bleed screws at the top? What will they think of next!
Must have been a bugger to bleed before!
Nice job mike. Good information on the Gearbox. I have got a question for you the black retaining clip holding the pushrod. To the fork. Do you need to have that clip to hold. Push rod in place. I watched your video how to change the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder. When I took The slave cylinder off there was no retaining clip Holding it in place. I have Tried always to put the clip on without taking the gearbox out put it all back together with the new sleeve cylinder on without the clip and it seems to be working fine what is your advice thank you very much
stefan mazur the clips just there to hold the pushrod in place to fit the slave cylinder, u can do it without the clip, just tricky to hold it in the clutch fork and fit the slave at the same time. Once it’s in it can’t go anywhere and is fine. Mine dropped out once doing it an fell in the bell housing 🙈 gearbox back off not recommended. Just be careful if u ever have to change the slave that it doesn’t drop out into the bell housing.(long nose pliers) 👍
Dave Jones thank you very much for that. That what happened to me as well. Manage to get it out with a magnet stick. Then I hel it in please and then fitted the new slave cylinder. On it is all working fine 👍🏾
Hi Mike just out of interest when are you going to be finishing off that maroon classic Rang Rover it will be winter soon and you will not be able to find it in the snow.
We have a donor car in Maine for the interior - the border is still closed - we cannot pick it up
Fun putting engines in on yer own, ain't it...
Yes - you really need an extra pair of hands!
Mike - hope you can help here - you made a comment about slaves and push rods, done clutches and hydraulics on my Land Rovers for decades and I think I may have the mismatch now you mention it, I never payed it any attention, but I had an issue with a new Ashcroft box and new slave where I found my clutch slave needed shimming out as I felt it was always making contact, I noted you can get shims so assumed, well they sell them, I obviously need them, I shimmed it out with 2 shims, made the cutch position horrible but solved the issue. I now suspect that actually I have a mismatch, do you have details, measurements and part no's so I can sort a matched pair and sort this or at least check what I have.
Stroooth squadron leader..that was quicksticks..and no choice words for our sponsors..😁pip pips and carryon
With regular maintenance this vehicle will last another 20/30 years. Unless Canada goes all electric ☹️
Hope so!
Not a "bugger" or for fooks sake" to be heard... 😁