My Ocean-Going Catamaran Gets Powered! | Wildling Sailing
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- I installed one of my Yamaha 9.9 high thrust engines and get my second one. the first one locks up due to oil in cylinder and the second isa bit corroded. just another step refitting my 42 foot ocean going catamaran!
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A Yamaha 9.9 has 4 holes in the bracket which allow you to bolt the engine onto the transom (8 mm). Theft is made much more difficult if you do so and it won't fall in the water either . Your second engine has obviously suffered from lack of maintenance. You might want to flush out any salt deposits :remove the thermostat (on top of the engine ), check for salt/corrosion. If present put leg of outboard in a tub of water with some hydrochloric acid . Run engine for 5 minutes and all deposits will dissolve and be pumped out. Run for another 10 minutes in clean fresh water . Carburated 9.9 Yamaha is the best outboard ever. Utterly reliable and if broken always repairable using only basic tools. I have a load of spare parts for this engine . If you want them (free), let me know.
Check anode mate,and replace it with new one,this is why corrosion happens usually
Kia Ora lad, I bought a $90 off-roader 12v winch, changed the galv cable for dynema and mounted on crossbeam it pulls my 3mtr tender with 18hp outboard right out of water easy peasy. Same thing would work for your outboards.
Rog
Did anyone else get a shock when he shorted the battery???!!!😊
You should never use a hammer like that on battery terminals. It damages the plates on the inside. Especially on used batteries.
Making progress.💪🏽👏🏼
Looking forward to your first sail!
I have this motor. Push/pump the starter key in as you start it. Each push in pumps extra fuel in. This is your choke. Then a little throttle for a warming idle.
I am sending a High recommendation, and warning. You need to attach a cable or chain from each outboard motor that acts both as antitheft, but even more important, is a safety from the outboard working itself loose and falling in the ocean to the bottom when under way. I have seen them come loose many times. You need a cable or chain locked to them that allows for recovery....
Yeah..a mate had an outboard nicked off his boat as it wasn't secured...and.,l almost lost an outboard after the leg hit something as l was trolling.
What he said . I never run an outboard without a safety line .
Why not bolt them on? Much safer than chain or cable!
I lost mine in the drink just this week. I'd had it for 3 weeks :(
@@loveoracle8797jesus. why didn’t you just bolt it down?
The Yamaha 9.9HT's are excellent pushers with ONE large problem...the cooling system. They have a flush connection and you need to use it every time you run them. On a Catalina 30 one of these pushed it at 6kts using only 0.5gph, but I permanently plumbed the cooling flush hose to the boats water system and religiously flushed with every use. Much better than waiting a few months until all that's coming from the water outlet is steam and needing to break down the leg and block to clean out salt/lime. In your case I suggest buying a cheap solar shower bag, adapting the shower head to a standard female garden hose fitting, you can hang it up and flush each by gravity.
All open cooled marine engines should be flushed after use
Just a tip, always, always have a safety line on any outboard when playing with them over water. It’s ever so easy to ooops, drop them and have no way to recover the carcass. Also a sacrificial piece of plywood instead of slippery alloy on the inside of the mount for the clamps to bite into otherwise the motor tends to waltz all over the place. Been there, done that.
Just a point, I cringed when you started hammering the connector onto the pole of the battery, best way to break it, I think. Keep up the good work. 🙂
Beware of an outboard with a damaged prop. Check the shaft is straight and the gearbox is ok. Morse Teleflex 33C cables are universal, interchangeable between engine manufacturers, you should be able to get a connection kit for your particular engine. Is that a starter battery or a leisure battery? A leisure battery will not last long as a starter battery as it is not designed for the high discharge rate when cranking an engine.
I nearly choked on my cuppa tea when you bridged the two terminals 🤣
I choked on mine!
@@drsnapid i did a little wee
@paulstewart6151 😂😂😂
I dropped my tablet !! Lol
@@paulstewart6151 ...I love this😂😂😂
Sand down the corrosion and spray it with Hammerite paint 💙
Replacing the zincs are also a must... That prop would have been a red light to me!
It's Wildling Friday!! Thanks for sharing your journey, man, we love it!
thanks for watching, mate!
The farther aft you can place the hoist for then engine the better (mechanical advantage). You might have the two block and tackles meet in the middle at your cross brace adjacent to the main cross beam of the boat. The mounting point on the engine sled could remain in place.
I was also going to say to take care with where the pullies are re located due to leverage. Also a good security chain or cable.
Get yourself a block of tallow and rub it on the cutting disc. It stops the blade from clogging. You’ll find it will go through ali like butter.
Love the content by the way!
Was so gonna say
“use caution when grinding aluminum”
I had no idea about the tallow! Thanks!
Kerosene best for Aluminium, use small squirt bottle.
You'd apply the lube to the cutline on the material though? Not the abrasive disc? And if you're cutting alloy you'd use a TCT blade, not an abrasive disc anyway..... don't grind soft metals.
Use a masonry blade as it Silicone carbide and cuts rather grinds
Take some advice and put a safety cable attaching the motors to the beams overhead in case they ever break their mounts. Some 4mmx19 stainless able will be fine.
I came here to make the same suggestion.
I'd hate for anything to happen to one of his motors.
Несомненно!
Поддерживаю👍
Всё, что имеет самостоятельные вибрации - должно иметь страховку☝️
Never bash on a battery terminal mark 😂
It can cause the paste to part company with the elements. Cheap batteries likely to be less tolerant. Elements have been known to drop off the terminals.
yea...I was cringing
I always stab a vent port in my batteries.
@@dr.floridaman4805 increases performance 🤣👌
Mark
Never bang or put a twisting motion on a battery post! You can break the electrical connection inside the battery. Then when you charge or put a load on the battery it can spark internally. During the use of the battery water is separated into oxygen and hydrogen and these gasses are inside the battery. An internal spark can blow the battery up and spray acid everywhere. This is also why you never take off the charging cables while there is current in the battery cables. The spark can ignite the escaping explosive oxygen and hydrogen gas.
Nice progress on the boat. Slow and detailed work always wins in the end.
djeeeeezzzzz
the engine was stored/transported on the wrong side and oil gets in the combustion chamber starting and oillocking it could cause seriouse damage to the engine !!!! bent piston rods etc
More great stuff from NL! I love your edits when things don’t go well or lose your considerable cool…. Getting closer by the day Mark, keep on keepin on 😎
Good practical humor in this episode. Nice to see that it is not only me that’s an idiot sometimes 😂 . It all ends good.
besure check shaft make sure not bend because i have feeling that propelly tell me they destory it self so left in storage over 5 years not used
you can get rid of corrent by using metal brush on grainner just get rid rust and repaint it and you going need pull lower end off and check shaft make sure not bend if is it game over because it will cause shaking vibrating in drive forward or reveres
2nd never leave engine side way because oils will make it into piston i recomment you have piston head facing up so oils laying away from head stay on bottom because not like 2 stroke that you can lay sideway else you lucky didnt bend rod if you did ended badly
For your engine collapsing in the rope, you could use the aluminium traverse near the yellow beam above the motor to act as a relay with puleys fixed on it. So you don't move your existing ones more close to the axe of rotation of the white box.
Have a nice continuation.
Your Mom is so handy, have her make the mattress cut offs into decorative pillows. Comfy.
Remember, the positive post is bigger than the negative. Also be careful turning your four stroke engines upside down. You will get oil in the carburetor and you can Hydro lock it in. When you try to start it, you will bend a rod or valve. and also topless women will get you in trouble lol thank you for another video. I am still surviving still alive thank the good Lord I’m going to go ahead and have my right hip and leg amputated. To get rid of bone infection in my hip socket to try to save my life. Prayers are appreciated. My name is Michael.
I pray healing and speak life upon u in Jesus name
Great tip I will be praying to The King Of The Universe for u Michael
His strength through your suffering. Praying for His mercy for you.
You got this! Dig deep, do it for your "buddy".
I wish you luck with that . I hope you pull it through.
You're gonna lose that engine if you don't Put some through bolts through that aluminum plate
I love your positivity! Living a real, unfiltered life…why can’t things go simply and like they supposed to go? When life gives you lemons, you always seem to make limoncello. Keep at it. Looking forward to seeing your parents. 😎👍🥰
I use a circular saw with a carbide blade to cut aluminum, works great for me.
Maybe check the impeller on the engine.
Use bees wax & carbide tipped blade --. Have made thousands of cuts through aluminum. We used carbide-tipped circular saw blades or carbide-tipped chop saw blades. And we used blocks of pure bees wax as the lubricant. We very carefully cut into the bees wax block a half-inch or so (with a running saw blade). We did that before every cut. On a cut thru thick plate like on your vid, we might zing the blade a few times as the cut progressed. NOTHING compares to bees wax to lube a saw blade. NOTHING. And we took our time. Let the blade do the work. Never rush it.
Great vid -- as always.
And the result was ALWAYS an easy cut... and a perfect cut - a near-mirror finish.
Aluminum is non ferrous and requires different cutting discs. I’ve seen the results of using the ferrous disc to cut non ferrous materials, the result was the disc exploded and the bits went into my friends face, as he wasn’t wearing a face shield. Can just use a circular saw, but be careful either way.
Never ever hammer on the battery posts. You’ll wreck your battery very quickly doing that. Wedge a screwdriver in the cable clamp gaps instead.
It's all going well mate. Keep at it. Looking forward to your parents visit. They are stars. Your ratings should jump for that video. 😅. 🐟
You need to attach some wood to you alloy outboard mountings as you need something for the engine mounts to bite on, otherwise they can work off the mount. Ask me how i know.
Now that shocked even me! That’s the way us old farts used to check how good a battery really was. In the 60’s. Funny! HA!
Just keep going brother 😄 Btw, I'm enjoying the background music you've been putting in to bridge the breaks in between chatting. Love your journey Mark. From one of your Aussie supporters.
Hi Mark, I’m not a boatie but enjoy following you on this. Just a question from an outboard ignorant; I think about where those motors are intended to be when on a transom, up, that level on your mounts changes when you raise them so does that cause a problem with oil entering the pots? Thanks for bringing us along.
Dude, you’re getting SO close to the end of your days as a dock pirate! 🤙
I had a similar vintage Yamaha 15 hp 4 stroke. I found that even when storing it for short periods of time on its back (oriented as per manual), that oil could pass the piston rings and hydrolock the engine when trying to start it after mounting back on dinghy. Turns out it’s a well known issue with Yamahas. I ended up trading mine for a 2 stroke Mercury. So much lighter and no crankcase oil lol
2 strokes are banned or will be soon from Amsterdam and several other urban port places. Too polluting...
regarding your oily motor projects: you might want to get some bed mats and large nappies they soak also oil and will leave less oil on surfaces you want oilfree.
WOW! The Pyxis Ocean! This is a modern sailing freighter. The two huge, bulky things on this ship are fixed sails.
Dude! i was wondering what that was! thats so cool!
Personally i would have attached the engine sturdily to the main structure, otherwise there is too much strain on the hinges, which consist here of simple bolts.. all the vibrations could weaken that easily, this is my opinion with no technical knowledge at all. I'm hoping for comments proving me wrong on this.
The way the transom on your outboard mounting box flexed when you blipped the throttle is a worry, I suggest fitting a safety chain to keep the motor from sinking when you need it most. Wish you all the best, ps love your mum and dad.
When cutting aluminium with an angle grinder, I find that it helps immensely to run the risk in an bar of handsoap every now and then to keep it from biting.
When you fired up the engine without checking to make sure it still had enough oil in it 😬
I think your new engine might have been on a boat with the drive in the water for an extended period, hence the corrosion. Talk to your dad about grinding it off and repainting with a good epoxy marine paint. Looks like your motor lifts are going to need a complete rethink. Moving the fittings along that rail will greatly increase the difficulty in lifting it.
Good to hear mom and pops will be in the next one.
As always, best show on the Tube.
Hi Mark, your videos are definitely getting better. I love your perseverance, you’ve come a long way.
I noticed no drain holes in the back of the motor boxes. Try drilling a larger hole then filling it with epoxy then drilling a smaller hole within the epoxy. So the wood doesn’t get compromised.
I've been watching your channel since you first went to look at this boat. Amazing the difference in it now.
Watch the older videos when he was in Wales sailing without out a clue. Gotta love him big balls.
@@Matt-f1b9qHe's come a long way since his first boat, learned a lot, but remains humble and ready to learn, a lot to love about this channel 👍
A bit late now, but whenever you are making something like a bed to fit in a space with uneven dimensions, make a template out of cardboard and transfer the cardboard to the bed and cut it out that way. You live and you learn Mark.
Well done.
Dang who'd have thought that wrench would be the perfect size to short the battery 😂💥
Mate your smashing this project been subscribed since you bought this boat and been loving your progress your work so far has been awesome keep it up buddy
Now you have two plates of slippery aluminum, you should install two bolts at the bottom of the engine
In keeping with the nautical theme, a common way of saying you’re feeling hungover in dutch is saying you are ‘brak’. It shares the same origin as ‘brackish water’ in English :)
do you have a stainless steel cable attatched or soemthing like it for a positive stop on your engine mounts
Get used to sailing your boat Mark. I would not rely on those engines to go fishing.
Add a double block to the middle of the metal beam above the head of the engine to divert the lines that are in the way, that way you won’t have to relocate what you have already fitted.
Love extra thick foam , have same in our SlidaVan trailer, you need a barbecue on one of the rails outside,wonderfull addition when the time is right for it
Ahh well done mark.
Thank god your mums and expert on bedding. After you pulled that rotten blue duvet over your nice new mattress, I thought you needed a bedding expert on board.
Keep up the good work.
You should be able to glue together the off cuts to make pillows. Make them sized to standard pillow cases. Mum will know what to do.
Gday Mark,
It seems the engine trays will be taking quite a bit of force during opperation .
I hope you put a safety strap from engine to a suitable securing point , as id hate to see one drop into the Mid Atlantic whilst under continued power cycles.
Respect...!
Just having a Look at the 'Engine Lift' Set-Up .... Maybe better to just put the Whole Block System UP on the 'Cross Brace' .... It will be a LOT Higher and the Mechanical Advantage would be Much Increased at the expense of being Slower and using a Lot More Rope AND it should All 'Clear' the Engine Hood too .... Cheers from ChCh, NZ
That spark made me jump. Scared the crap outta me lol
The engine water pressure seems weak you may need a water pump so have it checked. Good job with you boat
Hi Mark ! I have got the Yamaha 9.9 high thrust outboard engine for years on end and I am very happy with it. These engines are very reliable and very durable. They have a high ratio tork, therefore a bigger propellor. So with low rev's per minute a very large amount of water displacement, especially for heavy boats (werk motor). Also the fuel consumption is reasonable. The younger engine might be more economical than the older version, though. For better water cooling results, clean out the outher bit were the water comes out. You might want to give a new spray paint on the lower part of the engine were the rust bits are. I think the higher bits with rust are not that important. Thanks for this nice episode. Greeting, Frank
DIY Beds, not for long, mom will fix. Dad will help with the 2nd engine install and fit-up. Looking forward to the chain and backing plates installation
.
I find a little marvel mystery oil fuel stabilizer in the fuel keeps the carb clean. I also put it in the crank case about 20hrs before oil change.
nice, I filled up with 95, and I think that's what gummed up my last carb, perhaps I could treat my 95 with an additive, it could sort the problem out?
Hi Mark, another great episode, loved the bridging of the battery terminals😅 been there as well. We're back in Swansea fitting an engine on Solarwinds with the prototype engine bracket. We will also be fitting two 9.9hp motors but I'm looking forward to seeing how yours perform. Well keep it up, you're doing an amazing job.
Best Wishes, Mark and Julie
I believe that batteries for starting engines are different from batteries designed for running lights, fridges etc. The first is designed to produce high current for a short period of time (called CCA batteries, I recall) these need to be kept full most of the time, or damage(?) reduced life(?) can result. The latter, often called 'deep-cycle' batteries, don't produce tons of power, but rather can be drained fairly deeply over a long period of time, without damaging them. You might need one of the former for starting your engines (can probably be pretty small - like a motorcycle battery), and a larger deep-cycle battery for your on-board stuff like radios, lights, fridge, charging cameras etc...
I'm NOT an expert (to put it mildly), so please don't take my word for any of this :) I just read about this stuff when I was setin my car up for a long (trans-australia) road trip a while back...
The kill switch grounds the ignition spark, has nothing to do with the starter😊
Mark, order yourself 2 cheap atv 12v electric winches from somewhere such as Harbor freight in the USA. They're less than $80 a piece and will easily pull those engines up..
Those 4 strokes are heavy, if you're lifting that sort of weight, try and use something to give you a mechanical advantage. You're young, strong and resilient, but stuffing your back up happens in a flash and then you're really screwed, for life...... multi pulley snatch blocks/block and tackle are really cheap and give you a massive advantage lifting and pulling heavy items.
Don't hammer on battery terminals either, that's a really bad practice to get into. Absolutely, on a boat nothing's simple.......Take care, soldier on.
obviously you don't have a clue about plastics and oil. They have 1 thing in common they harden! Only plastics harde faster, from 6 moths to 4 years they get so hard they break and loose their cementing power. Oil hardenes in about 10 to 400 years. Both are lets say polymeres.the base is either refined crude petroleum or polymers manufactured in the laboratory. So ALL glue exept the glue that unifies with the surface to be glued like cellulose will break within 2 years!! Only animal glue or cellulose will merge. All plastics will break!!! so avoid plasics if you want use them for more then 2 years!
Now might be a good time to get Starlink and save a few quid. They’ve got a discount at the moment. The hardware is reduced to £225. Normally £450. 👍
It has been fun watching your DIY journey. You have come a long way, pilgrim.
Have just returned to this video after watching another Wharram channel, BareBare to BoraBora. They are selling their 31ft Wharram! They built it themselves, but during the pandemic it was left moored in Polynesia for too long and has suffered rot. I have no stake in it apart from being a YT 'surfer' interested in catamarans. Someone out there interested?
Going clubbing after that will put a spark back into you. Your doin real well. Been looking for a Cat round this way, to do something similar. Keep up the good work, and stay vertical Eh!
ONLY EVER hammer a batt' terminal on if you really want to split the casing and cause permanent harm! If you plan on keeping a healthy battery ~ _NEVER_ hammer the terminals on!
The other way to think about it, is if someone donates two engine's or to donate EV engines, with the battery power to cover for your means, either way, you don't wanna be stuck in the middle of the ocean, and have no engines, as long as you have proper sails, you should be alright. Thanks for sharing your journey. Maybe ask around at a catamaran show to sponsor for the engines? NautiGuys they might be able to help you find a sponsor.
Hi! That part you hadn't seen before looks like the automatic choke pull. It slides inside an electromagnet, which connects to the starter switch. The choke is pulled while the srarter motor runs and returns by the spring on the choke lever. The magnet is usually bolted to the engine block (mine is), but it should be easy to spot. All the best!
'This motor is really small compared to the other one' . Yamaha made two different capacity outboards tagged as 9.9 high thrusts. Sounds like you have bought two mismatched motors.
Coming a long nicely! Still can't imagine how your deck is going to be? Saw another Wharram on youtube, looked very Hippie ish, can't really imagine crossing an ocean on it!😂
Hi mate. Steve from sunny Doncaster UK here, just had a thought that would be better than your hand manual pulley system, why don't you invest in clutch winches, I have one that lifts my swinging keel so will be plenty strong enough for your engines, winds up easy with no effort and winds down safely with no slipping, stainless steel cable so it should last for years too 👍
I would suggest turning those battery terminal nuts to the outside to avoid making contact via a socket.
A safety chain on the engine is needed so you don't deep six your motor.
Hmm - yon battery is a leisure one, not really designed for starting engines, but then you don't have a 250kg classic Lister diesel like me, so maybe it'll be fine for a pair of modern petrol outboards. On the positive side, 2-stroke outboards are steadily being banned in certain countries, so four strokes are the way to go 🙂
Good work Mark, can’t wait to see what you do with the rig and also to see your mum and dad helping you along. Andy UK
I would connect your other electrical systems to one of your solar/lithium powerbanks to prevent accidentally draining your start battery. And watch out for Starlink it has a high power consumption.
Use boat trailer winches that use strap not wire to lift motors ,one on each side should work. Then you can put safety chain on the otherside for up and down position. Leaves the central area clear.
Mark
I was watching Sailing Life, they set up a trailer winch to hoist they tender out of the water. This may work for you hoisting the engines up.
Bill
Niagara falls, Canada
4 stroke engine, oil in cylinder from being lying down the wrong way……I am sure you must top up engine oil level when setup. RTFM
So, if there is oil where it shouldn’t be, is it now that there is no oil where it should be? Did we check the levels ? 😮. Like my British mom says “it’s like the house that Jack built”. I have a feeling that with the different geared engines, your cat with drive in circles. Not hating on you, I know you will figure it out. Good luck Mark
Any line that you want to haul on should be at least 8mm diameter, and preferably more. Thinner cordage may have an ample load capacity but you really need larger stuff for comfort if you are puling it by hand. Cheesewire is strong, but it's not nice to handle!
Hopefully the next vid will be called "on the plane" and not the one home :-) Good luck with the new engine, you will enjoy having your folks over.
Love the eclectic music as always. I hope you got a drawing for the pulleys, it should be pretty simple for a man with your tenacity.....
third time I say this: Glue will harden out and break within a few (2) years!!! Your windows will suddenly fall off as will these two aluminium slots if they are not bolted! One day in a storm you will just see windows falling off in a storm! Be warned and bolt them!!!!
What’s the BBQ in the back ground is that a Kamado Joe? Are you smoking food with it? Can you do a review and instructional on it?
We have tipped our Honda 8hp all different ways,never had oil coming out,must be an issue ,seal leaking ?
Thanks for the video, you must check oil level when the oil have run out of the crank case and in the cylinder. 😊
Another great video.
Please be careful with that nine inch grinder they're deadly bloody things and for that reason they're apparently banned on building sites here in Australia.
Were you using the correct cutting disc for aluminium they're softer than the mild steel cutting discs and therefore dont clog up as readily though aluminium is a bugger to cut with a grinder.
Cheers