The oil is white because water is getting in the oil. It’s commonly called milkshake. It can be either bad seals or a racked housing allowing the water in.
Or grey Mayonnaise 😬 nasty definitely don't want to see that in the upper engine block... waters got in to the gearbox oil... A seal or hole needs fixing. Damage ? depends how long it's been run and left in there but your bearings might be iffy in the future .... If it's been run a while like that.
I saw lots of fishing line trapped when he took the prop off. I suspect this is the one that had the white oil and the fishing line has damaged the seal on the shaft behind the prop.. Mark I kindly and supportively suggest you drain oil on both legs.. (consider it a service flush to remove debris) and then replace both seals and maybe gasket too behind the props. . The new prop shaft seals (if you buy cheap Version, not original Yamaha) check that they have stainless seal ring. If not then replace with rubber o-ring. In my experience cheap seals can be intended for other use and can have steel in them that rust. - or just buy Yamaha OEM part.
Don't worry about anything We love your content We like your personaliteit We love your way of working And lots of people don't mind to give you money because all of those Things. So don't worry and keep up the good work.. Nobody, s complaining..
Yea came here to say that too. Sorry mark but you will have to take it apart again to change your oil seals. On the bright side you will be a master at this by the time you are done 😂 keep chugging on bud, she's going to be great!
There's a small lever under the motors throttle controls if you raise it when starting your engine's it will rev the throttle while it's cold 🥶 starting 😊
As a 57 year old I can honestly say the most important thing I saw you doing this week was ........... wearing knee pads ! Also the colours on the stairs look great, amazing how something so small can make such a difference .
Im 66 years old and still working construction by myself, I have no helpers, I put knee pads on and don't take them off till I get home . I would like to walk in my 70s and 80s
Replace both thermostats. The telltale water pressure is likely due to corrosion and blockage due to improper flushing of the engine with fresh water after use. During the removal of the thermostat, take time to run the engine without it (fresh water connected) so the increased pressure will clear any debris.
Some tips: If you want to take the impeller off. Get the dull side of a Stanley knife. And scratch all the dirt and stuff of the drive shaft. All the way until the old impeller. That way it's easier to take off. #2 with most engines. Especially yamaha. When you want to put a new impeller on there. With the top housing put in place. Always turn the driveshaft clockwise. As you saw with the old impellers. If they are installed incorrectly. You get one, or more splines facing the wrong direction.
If the lower unit oil is white it's because water is getting into the lower unit. Usually this means a leaking prop shaft seal but check for cracks in the unit.
you should make drain holes in your engine cradles...rough weather and waves will fill them up rather quickly and they will be heavy or cause more damage to your creation.cheers Ps.put security chains on both outboards...1 reason thieves ....2 reason extra security in case they move and don't end up at the bottom of the ocean.
Mark Great job on your motor's. The paint job your Mom did looks really good and your personal touch of the skateboard looks good, someone made a comment about lights behind it use LEDs low power consumption, can also buy battery operated led string lights. Always enjoy your video's. Bill Niagara Falls, Canada
A suggestion only because I have learned, if it can happen it will happen to me. I would place a stainless steel cable capable of holding the motor out of the water as a safety measure. Sort of the same principle as a safety chain on a trailer. Your patience and craftsmanship is remarkable.
I really enjoyed the griptape job. Looks awesome! My best friend and i did the same thing to our boat for the open bow and rear gunnels. We also color matched it to the orange paint of our boat the "Orange-a-peel". Great upgrade for jumpin into the water.
The plate isn't the reason why it's "bending" like that. That's because it's a high thrust engine. With enormous propeller blades. So your engine gets a lot of force on the rubbers inside the engine. That's the bending that you see. Over time the rubbers get smaller. So the bending gets more visible.
@@MaryFandStevieG The weathers really been against him,it’s been an terrible start to the summer he must be frustrated but he keeps smiling and you cannot fail whilst every you’re trying! You must be proud and glad to hear you’re okay.
I haven't watched in a few episodes. You're progress is awesome! Glad you got your engines all serviced and installed. That steering system is a work of boat-shed engineering art. Love the skateboard deck and I agree about some LEDs around the back, it would make a nice light!
You need to repull the engines and replace the seal behind the prop. If not, your lower unit will fail with saltwater intrusion. Probably not what you want to hear, but better than being broke down on the open ocean.
Agree with all the "white oil" guys. do a reseal on that unit. include the shift shaft seal too. Also you are not listening to the "start " procedure. 1) prime 2) raise the neutral throttle lever 3) spin the motor and then push in the key to set the choke. As soon as it starts let off the choke. You will notice the difference. Also- if you have chargers on both motors, don't run both chargers on a single battery. If you have spark plugs that foul, check the cam timing as if the marks are a little as 1 half a mark off the belt has stretched .
@0:38 That sounds logical, but you then will have to move the blocks more aft. As you can see the tiller-bar moves back- and forwards. The blocks are best placed a little aft of the tiller-bar (in neutral position) to make up for that.👴🤔😉 @02:17 Wow! That is long, very long overdue! @05:01 Leaking seals! White creamy oil mixed with water. Change at least the prop seal(s) (most likely to leak). @11:13 Not through bolting, that will surely please thieves.... So much easier.
My new 40 hp Yamha outboard pees the same amount of water. You put in a new water pump. All's ok I would say. Feel the water after engine warms . If it wasn't pumping enough, the water will actually feel hot.
Keep going Mark you re doing great. Sure and steady. The grey oil is Emulcified oil. The under water pump seal or the one on the prop shaft needs replacing. Or eithe r shafts are groved or pitted. When you removed the fishing line, that's most likely the one. Some motors the tell tail dribbles until the thermostat opens. Junk trapped in the hose can reduce output. If water pump tube wasn't lined up there shouldn't be water coming out of tube. Warm up lever really helps starting and warming the engine.Really looking forward to the stick going up (mast). Australia
I'm a member of a sailing club in North Wales and we have three safety RIBs and a little plastic boat with an outboard. We do what you did to your engines every year and they are only used in fresh water! These units are ultra reliable these days but yours have been owned by lazy people so you did superb getting them back to a useable condition. Look after your engines and they will look after you. Loving the interior son farm- you mum did a great job with the painting. Really enjoying this series.
5:10 the milky white color means you are getting sea water into the gear case.. that usually means a shift fork seal, drive shaft seal, impeller shaft seal, or gear case seal is allowing water in the gearbox. Keep an eye on that gear oil and if it gets milky again, then you know sea water is getting in that gear box
Hi, a bowl with some bleach in it left in your cabin will help take away the paint smell. (Try it) You'll be surprised 👍. Keep up the good work. SV Kiwi Lady Opua Bay of islands New Zealand 👍🏿
I have watched you for years i will say i miss you and cowgirl plus your dog! But that is life!!! long time viewer! Capt Wilkus Will keep watching how you get that ship put together! Best of luck! Do not give up!
Others have told you about the milky oil - its water. Also I have a 9.9 Yammie like your newer one on my cat. I have to push the key in and out before starting - I was told this activates the choke and I do hear a relay clicking. Then I lift up the little lever on top of the control box to increase revs until she gets warm. It takes a couple of minutes if the motor hasn't been started for a week or two. Quicker if I pump the fuel line. Please don't hit the leg with a mallet, you can break the cast fin shaped plates off. I use soft wood between the rubber mallet and the outboard. Also, the older outboard might be the better one to keep hold of. Before about 2010, Yamaha made 9.9 four strokes by derating 15s, so the powerhead was 330cc. BUt later they uprated the 8hp to 9.9 by changing carb settings. The new powerhead is about 250cc. The new outboards are not as powerful as the old ones at the lower revs we typically use them at, the difference is real and owners of cats like the Seawind 1000 could easily tell when they got new Yammies. I have a mate who has replaced his newer twin 9.9s with older ones he refurbished. The old ones are getting old now but don't throw it away if it is going well.
Never boring Mark. I love these projects that are not simply paint and splash or replace and go, channels. Yours requires thought, ingenuity, planning and of course, hard graft. You have come such a long way from when you sailed from the UK then through the French canals etc! Well done!
Always enjoy the content. I would have put the drain plug in and pumped the oil in the level plug without a an airtight seal until it was weeping out slowly. Can't wait to see her sailing, not long now!
You have the castle nuts on backwards mate. Make sure you have the thrust and spacer washer on in the right place & right way round. The milky oil is because water is getting in from the seals. Need to pressure test
HI Mark the possible reason water is getting into the oil is that the seal on the propeller shaft is perished. An easy fix given what you are able to do now.
The skateboard would make a good top loading stash shelf, if the bottom horizontal was angled in against the wall and the top horizontal angled out/away from the wall. Triangle wedges to make brackets. I also like the lighting ideas. The oil filling pump is a good idea but, why don’t you put the bottom plug in and fill from the top? I know nothing about engines, so probably an obvious answer😂 Another great film, thanks 🤓
Hai Mark, on the one engine the rubber hose sticks out, lots of water. On the other one you still have the plastic thingy that the hose attaches to. remove that and stick the hose out. with that you will likely see that it gives just as much water. It is just restricted by the little plastic thingy. And the milkshake in one of the outboards happens a lot. The little seal rings on the fillplugs wear out quickly so change them every time you change the gearoil. Keep it up. Kind Regards Pascal
Hi Mark, apologies if this has already been said but the poor flow from your engines can be sorted by blowing compressed air through water outlet. Had exactly the same issue with my 9.9 and after replacing the impeller still no joy then a quick squirt of compressed air and the beauty was peeing like a teenager.
Clean/replace the carb screens/filters and clean jets and she should run better. Also make sure the float and needle are set correctly and not gunked up.
Serviced those engines confidently. Once the milky one is run for a bit, check the oil color again. May have to change seals or closely check for cracks. Lessons to be learnt buying used. On the low piss, check thermostat functions properly when warm. Also alow some time for the new impeller to work in if oriented properly. Groovy color schemes, skate board and steers. Probably have to encase each battery and tank for security and from the elements. Waiting for a trial test run.
Excellent work Mark, pleased as this end bloke. Your doin well! Lookin forward to seein MAHI stern slipin out of the boat yard, in May/June, and some rippa sailing. Keep up the good work and stay vertical Eh!
As others have said, the gearbox has leaked to cause the water in the oil. A common leak point is the bearing on the propellor shaft. These can fail if fishing line gets wrapped round the shaft and cuts into the seal on the bearing. The Dangar Marine UA-cam channel has some videos of replacing these seals.
The thermostat controls the amount of water ejected. When the engine warms up, the thermostat will open wider and allow more water to pass. When cold, it is only the thermostat bypass that is allowing water to flow. This is only a small amount--so you are probably OK.
Exactly, and also the impeller might be squeezed in the wrong position, at least some of the blades. To avoid that is useful to put a zip tie around the blades making sure they are in the correct orientation and then place it inside its case... He didn't check the orientation of the blades, just squeezed the impeller in...
Hello Mark, I've been following your channel for a while now. One thing I've noticed you do things just enough knowing you'll have to redo them, then you have to do them again the right way which is ok if you have the time and money. But, why not do the job correctly the first time and save yourself time, money and frustration. You have the fortitude to do the work the first time and one time only. I hope you take this in a positive way and use it to motivate yourself to move forward in your venture. Take care. Love your videos.
You're doing great!! Getting the wrong part or having to go out and get something you forgot or didn't know you needed until you took something apart is par for the course. It builds character and lung capacity from swearing like a sailor. 😉 That's what's great about your channel, it's real like the rest of us. Continued good luck!
You’re doing great, I think it’s brilliant that you take on board the advice in the comments, not everyone would do that, to me it’s a sign of your maturity. Cheers from The Senior Confessor, England
Oil turns white when water gets into it, you need to check for leaks, on of the seals might not be sealing properly. If you have not found the leak I suggest you run the engines for a couple of hrs then check the oil again, if it is turning milky you have a leak that you need to find and fix, check the seals first.
2.18 - I thought we were going to get a blast of Pink Floyd - whoop!!!...Another grrreat episode, not boring at all! Watched with Bonnie & Luca & both missing their Uncle Mark😢...Love love looooove the Skateboard & steps...Match all your cushions😂...So darn proud - but I think you know that dont you Sparks...Love, as always, 🌈🌻🤗Mum 🤗🌻🌈
For the motor mount i use a 5 mm plastic cutting board :) the aluminium one is good on the other side where the screws are. I also use true bolts to secure the engine so it doesent break off when full turn and high thrust.
Two suggestions for you, 1,you have a wave deflector in front of the motors (many modern cats have them), 2. a pair of turnbuckles fitted to the rudder connecting rod to tension the steering ropes (cables). If it makes things easier to route the cables you don't have to connect to the centre of the rod.
I think your engine transoms need a little reinforcing, with the engines down in a rough "following" sea they could easily tear them off. (belt and braces approach)
The School of Hard Knocks teaches well and the lessons are not forgotten. Learning from others is faster, cheaper and painless. Some how I prefer the latter.
Not sure if you already have one but I suggest a “battery master on/off switch” between the battery and outboards, you’re doing well for a young fella, all the best.
when you removed the prop their was some fishing line behind it. That would have cut out the seal causing water to get in the gear case. I would think you will have to change the oil seal in that unit. Also you do not have to tighten the living daylights out of that gear case screw. just a big screwdriver will be tight enough. I have run outboards for 50 years & only ever used a screwdriver & never had one even start to get loose. The possible reason the motor appears is not pumping as much is cause the thermostat is jammed open. When the thermostat is closed more water is forced to the tell tail circuit. would be good to replace both of them. only a 5 minute job. they are on the top left side of the power head.
As others have said, the oil is white because it has got water in it. Normal cause for it is the oil seal behind the prop gets buggered up due to fishing line being wrapped around the shaft and being forced under the seal. I did see you remove some fishing line, was that from the motor with the white oil? Replace the seal asap.
The oil is white because water is getting in the oil. It’s commonly called milkshake. It can be either bad seals or a racked housing allowing the water in.
Or grey Mayonnaise 😬 nasty definitely don't want to see that in the upper engine block... waters got in to the gearbox oil... A seal or hole needs fixing.
Damage ? depends how long it's been run and left in there but your bearings might be iffy in the future .... If it's been run a while like that.
Snot
Emulsion.
I saw lots of fishing line trapped when he took the prop off. I suspect this is the one that had the white oil and the fishing line has damaged the seal on the shaft behind the prop..
Mark I kindly and supportively suggest you drain oil on both legs.. (consider it a service flush to remove debris) and then replace both seals and maybe gasket too behind the props. .
The new prop shaft seals (if you buy cheap Version, not original Yamaha) check that they have stainless seal ring. If not then replace with rubber o-ring. In my experience cheap seals can be intended for other use and can have steel in them that rust. - or just buy Yamaha OEM part.
I deal with these almost every month. The output shaft seal either gets cord wrapped around it or corrosion from around the seal.
the skateboard would make an interesting wall light if you can get a LED strip behind it.
They do!
The skater in me cringed at hanging that gonz board on a wall, but I get it. Will look pretty cool.
Great idea 👍👍
Yep that was me on the cruise ship going past I am one of your patrons - Clive Cummings
Ahhhh Clive! Now, I know that name. I wonder why 😂 thanks a lot mate
Don't worry about anything
We love your content
We like your personaliteit
We love your way of working
And lots of people don't mind to give you money because all of those Things.
So don't worry and keep up the good work.. Nobody, s complaining..
Mom did a fantastic job painting. Well done mom .
🤗
@@MaryFandStevieG mummy boy lol
@@justproject8350 ....Haha 🤗⛵️🤗
You have a bad seal on the lower unit with the white gear oil. Its white because water got into it.
Thanks mate
Yea came here to say that too. Sorry mark but you will have to take it apart again to change your oil seals. On the bright side you will be a master at this by the time you are done 😂 keep chugging on bud, she's going to be great!
Agree. Probably the fishing line that was behind the prop tore the seal.
There's a small lever under the motors throttle controls if you raise it when starting your engine's it will rev the throttle while it's cold 🥶 starting 😊
The music goes well with the messy engine work.
As a 57 year old I can honestly say the most important thing I saw you doing this week was ........... wearing knee pads ! Also the colours on the stairs look great, amazing how something so small can make such a difference .
Im 66 years old and still working construction by myself, I have no helpers, I put knee pads on and don't take them off till I get home . I would like to walk in my 70s and 80s
Replace both thermostats. The telltale water pressure is likely due to corrosion and blockage due to improper flushing of the engine with fresh water after use. During the removal of the thermostat, take time to run the engine without it (fresh water connected) so the increased pressure will clear any debris.
Some tips:
If you want to take the impeller off.
Get the dull side of a Stanley knife. And scratch all the dirt and stuff of the drive shaft. All the way until the old impeller. That way it's easier to take off.
#2 with most engines. Especially yamaha. When you want to put a new impeller on there. With the top housing put in place. Always turn the driveshaft clockwise.
As you saw with the old impellers. If they are installed incorrectly. You get one, or more splines facing the wrong direction.
I really like the skateboard and tape colour inspiration; a taste of what is to come.....
You’re doing a great job won’t be long before your dad keeps calling for advice ❤
If the lower unit oil is white it's because water is getting into the lower unit. Usually this means a leaking prop shaft seal but check for cracks in the unit.
There is also a gearbox seal behind the prop that is the most common leaker. Rebuilding old boat motors was once a pastime.
waiting for the sailing part, i wanna see the mast go up
Good work on the drive trains! Skate board hangs!
sailors need to be brilliant mechanics and engineers and fabricators. How you are able to do everything from scratch is mind blowing!
Great job man
you should make drain holes in your engine cradles...rough weather and waves will fill them up rather quickly and they will be heavy or cause more damage to your creation.cheers
Ps.put security chains on both outboards...1 reason thieves ....2 reason extra security in case they move and don't end up at the bottom of the ocean.
Unless you’re actively filming your paint drying in real time, your episodes are NOT boring! I’m stoked to eventually see you and Mahi sail! 🙂
Mark
Great job on your motor's. The paint job your Mom did looks really good and your personal touch of the skateboard looks good, someone made a comment about lights behind it use LEDs low power consumption, can also buy battery operated led string lights.
Always enjoy your video's.
Bill
Niagara Falls, Canada
A suggestion only because I have learned, if it can happen it will happen to me. I would place a stainless steel cable capable of holding the motor out of the water as a safety measure. Sort of the same principle as a safety chain on a trailer. Your patience and craftsmanship is remarkable.
You need to do a leak down pressure test on that lower unit. Look it up on youtube you cant just guess where the leak could be in a lot of places.
I really enjoyed the griptape job. Looks awesome! My best friend and i did the same thing to our boat for the open bow and rear gunnels. We also color matched it to the orange paint of our boat the "Orange-a-peel". Great upgrade for jumpin into the water.
The coldstart lever at 15:48 above your thumb could be lifted to increase the revs a little during warmup. (15-30s)👍
Your tenacity, ingenuity and willingness to learn is awesome!!
Just noticed that the stairs are designed and built for healing monohulls.
The plate isn't the reason why it's "bending" like that.
That's because it's a high thrust engine. With enormous propeller blades. So your engine gets a lot of force on the rubbers inside the engine. That's the bending that you see.
Over time the rubbers get smaller. So the bending gets more visible.
good vibes from this guy , i hope all the best for he and his mom and dad
Great post as always Mark 😀
Your mechanical skills thanks to your dad have advanced tremendously hope your mum wasn’t affected by the paint
Ahhh thank you Sebastian...I did lose my voice for a couple of days, sounded like Rod Stewart....but on the whole fine🤗⛵️😂
@@MaryFandStevieG The weathers really been against him,it’s been an terrible start to the summer he must be frustrated but he keeps smiling and you cannot fail whilst every you’re trying! You must be proud and glad to hear you’re okay.
I haven't watched in a few episodes. You're progress is awesome! Glad you got your engines all serviced and installed. That steering system is a work of boat-shed engineering art. Love the skateboard deck and I agree about some LEDs around the back, it would make a nice light!
Mark, you should look at putting a light behind the skateboard mounted on the wall. That would look great.
nice idea!
I was thinking the same thing. But getting the boat finished comes first.
Brilliant idea that is
Spaghetti Western and California surf Muzak... Classic. I collect skate boards too.
You need to repull the engines and replace the seal behind the prop. If not, your lower unit will fail with saltwater intrusion. Probably not what you want to hear, but better than being broke down on the open ocean.
I love your boat. She's turning out beautifully.
Agree with all the "white oil" guys. do a reseal on that unit. include the shift shaft seal too. Also you are not listening to the "start " procedure. 1) prime 2) raise the neutral throttle lever 3) spin the motor and then push in the key to set the choke. As soon as it starts let off the choke. You will notice the difference. Also- if you have chargers on both motors, don't run both chargers on a single battery. If you have spark plugs that foul, check the cam timing as if the marks are a little as 1 half a mark off the belt has stretched .
Nice work Mark!
I'm surprised you put more holes in your wall XD thought those scared ya :)
@0:38 That sounds logical, but you then will have to move the blocks more aft. As you can see the tiller-bar moves back- and forwards. The blocks are best placed a little aft of the tiller-bar (in neutral position) to make up for that.👴🤔😉
@02:17 Wow! That is long, very long overdue!
@05:01 Leaking seals! White creamy oil mixed with water. Change at least the prop seal(s) (most likely to leak).
@11:13 Not through bolting, that will surely please thieves.... So much easier.
My new 40 hp Yamha outboard pees the same amount of water. You put in a new water pump. All's ok I would say.
Feel the water after engine warms . If it wasn't pumping enough, the water will actually feel hot.
Keep going Mark you re doing great. Sure and steady.
The grey oil is Emulcified oil. The under water pump seal or the one on the prop shaft needs replacing. Or eithe r shafts are groved or pitted. When you removed the fishing line, that's most likely the one. Some motors the tell tail dribbles until the thermostat opens. Junk trapped in the hose can reduce output. If water pump tube wasn't lined up there shouldn't be water coming out of tube. Warm up lever really helps starting and warming the engine.Really looking forward to the stick going up (mast). Australia
On Yamaha controllers the flap above the key is a choke definitely use it on cold starts was a must on our 2stroke 100hp Yamaha.
You could put backlighting behind the deck...
I'm a member of a sailing club in North Wales and we have three safety RIBs and a little plastic boat with an outboard. We do what you did to your engines every year and they are only used in fresh water! These units are ultra reliable these days but yours have been owned by lazy people so you did superb getting them back to a useable condition. Look after your engines and they will look after you. Loving the interior son farm- you mum did a great job with the painting. Really enjoying this series.
Really...which Sailing Club Donny? Our boat is in Pwhelli marina...We loooove North Wales 🏴
Want add, may want a few drain holes in the the white engine boxes. Ill assume they will fill with ocean water, during ruff waves or rain.
5:10 the milky white color means you are getting sea water into the gear case.. that usually means a shift fork seal, drive shaft seal, impeller shaft seal, or gear case seal is allowing water in the gearbox. Keep an eye on that gear oil and if it gets milky again, then you know sea water is getting in that gear box
Hi, a bowl with some bleach in it left in your cabin will help take away the paint smell. (Try it) You'll be surprised 👍. Keep up the good work.
SV Kiwi Lady Opua Bay of islands New Zealand 👍🏿
I have watched you for years i will say i miss you and cowgirl plus your dog! But that is life!!! long time viewer! Capt Wilkus Will keep watching how you get that ship put together! Best of luck! Do not give up!
haha, she's long gone, but follow her on instagram
@@WildlingSailing she is making terrible music
On the bright side, the exterior paint might hold up better than interior paint. Idk for sure though. It seems like it should
The lower unit with the milk of death in it has bad seals. Best to replace all seals including driveshaft and gear seals. Been there myself
Good onya mark I always enjoy your videos .. what a great adventure you have to look forward to 🤙
Others have told you about the milky oil - its water. Also I have a 9.9 Yammie like your newer one on my cat. I have to push the key in and out before starting - I was told this activates the choke and I do hear a relay clicking. Then I lift up the little lever on top of the control box to increase revs until she gets warm. It takes a couple of minutes if the motor hasn't been started for a week or two. Quicker if I pump the fuel line.
Please don't hit the leg with a mallet, you can break the cast fin shaped plates off. I use soft wood between the rubber mallet and the outboard.
Also, the older outboard might be the better one to keep hold of. Before about 2010, Yamaha made 9.9 four strokes by derating 15s, so the powerhead was 330cc. BUt later they uprated the 8hp to 9.9 by changing carb settings. The new powerhead is about 250cc. The new outboards are not as powerful as the old ones at the lower revs we typically use them at, the difference is real and owners of cats like the Seawind 1000 could easily tell when they got new Yammies. I have a mate who has replaced his newer twin 9.9s with older ones he refurbished. The old ones are getting old now but don't throw it away if it is going well.
And in a year or so Mark may decide to get parts to upgrade to 15 hp... Which is what I would do to those 9.9s
This was interesting like skateboard and tape yellow really works. Make sure your decks are none slip too.
Looking much nicer mom's efforts have been worth it!!❤
Never boring Mark. I love these projects that are not simply paint and splash or replace and go, channels. Yours requires thought, ingenuity, planning and of course, hard graft. You have come such a long way from when you sailed from the UK then through the French canals etc! Well done!
WONDERFUL EPISODE not boring and very well photographed - you are doing great things - not far from getting your motor boat tuned into a SAILING BOAT
Heads up on the paint curing is more in the 28 day range so try and leave it longer if you can for your own Good please Marc
Always enjoy the content. I would have put the drain plug in and pumped the oil in the level plug without a an airtight seal until it was weeping out slowly. Can't wait to see her sailing, not long now!
You have the castle nuts on backwards mate. Make sure you have the thrust and spacer washer on in the right place & right way round. The milky oil is because water is getting in from the seals. Need to pressure test
HI Mark the possible reason water is getting into the oil is that the seal on the propeller shaft is perished. An easy fix given what you are able to do now.
Loved it, cracking job.
The skateboard would make a good top loading stash shelf, if the bottom horizontal was angled in against the wall and the top horizontal angled out/away from the wall. Triangle wedges to make brackets. I also like the lighting ideas.
The oil filling pump is a good idea but, why don’t you put the bottom plug in and fill from the top? I know nothing about engines, so probably an obvious answer😂
Another great film, thanks 🤓
Hai Mark, on the one engine the rubber hose sticks out, lots of water. On the other one you still have the plastic thingy that the hose attaches to. remove that and stick the hose out. with that you will likely see that it gives just as much water. It is just restricted by the little plastic thingy. And the milkshake in one of the outboards happens a lot. The little seal rings on the fillplugs wear out quickly so change them every time you change the gearoil. Keep it up. Kind Regards Pascal
Hi Mark, apologies if this has already been said but the poor flow from your engines can be sorted by blowing compressed air through water outlet. Had exactly the same issue with my 9.9 and after replacing the impeller still no joy then a quick squirt of compressed air and the beauty was peeing like a teenager.
With my engine you pump the oil through the drain hole and up to prevent air.
Just be safe side you do need to build a fiberglass battery box. Keep your battery safe from corrosion.
I have enjoyed your music and I am not watching the grease much ❤
Never boring Mark. So interesting & I look forward to your clip every week 👍👍
A lot of progress this week. There's light at the end of the tunnel.
Clean/replace the carb screens/filters and clean jets and she should run better. Also make sure the float and needle are set correctly and not gunked up.
Serviced those engines confidently. Once the milky one is run for a bit, check the oil color again. May have to change seals or closely check for cracks. Lessons to be learnt buying used. On the low piss, check thermostat functions properly when warm. Also alow some time for the new impeller to work in if oriented properly.
Groovy color schemes, skate board and steers. Probably have to encase each battery and tank for security and from the elements. Waiting for a trial test run.
Good progress! I'd install a bung into those pods too myself 👌🏻👍🏻, Cheers Ben
Excellent work Mark, pleased as this end bloke. Your doin well! Lookin forward to seein MAHI stern slipin out of the boat yard, in May/June, and some rippa sailing. Keep up the good work and stay vertical Eh!
As others have said, the gearbox has leaked to cause the water in the oil. A common leak point is the bearing on the propellor shaft. These can fail if fishing line gets wrapped round the shaft and cuts into the seal on the bearing.
The Dangar Marine UA-cam channel has some videos of replacing these seals.
The thermostat controls the amount of water ejected. When the engine warms up, the thermostat will open wider and allow more water to pass. When cold, it is only the thermostat bypass that is allowing water to flow. This is only a small amount--so you are probably OK.
Exactly, and also the impeller might be squeezed in the wrong position, at least some of the blades. To avoid that is useful to put a zip tie around the blades making sure they are in the correct orientation and then place it inside its case... He didn't check the orientation of the blades, just squeezed the impeller in...
Hello Mark, I've been following your channel for a while now. One thing I've noticed you do things just enough knowing you'll have to redo them, then you have to do them again the right way which is ok if you have the time and money. But, why not do the job correctly the first time and save yourself time, money and frustration. You have the fortitude to do the work the first time and one time only. I hope you take this in a positive way and use it to motivate yourself to move forward in your venture. Take care. Love your videos.
a pully on a spring to tension the steering rope
Another fun episode ! 🎉. Loved the surf guitar 🎸 music 🎼
Usually the seal around the bottom end that hold the prop allows water into the lube oil. If you pick up a fishing line it will ruin the o-ring
I suggest chaining your motors they can be rough and very rough... You're doing great 👍 👌 👏
You're doing great!! Getting the wrong part or having to go out and get something you forgot or didn't know you needed until you took something apart is par for the course. It builds character and lung capacity from swearing like a sailor. 😉 That's what's great about your channel, it's real like the rest of us. Continued good luck!
You’re doing great, I think it’s brilliant that you take on board the advice in the comments, not everyone would do that, to me it’s a sign of your maturity. Cheers from The Senior Confessor, England
Oil turns white when water gets into it, you need to check for leaks, on of the seals might not be sealing properly. If you have not found the leak I suggest you run the engines for a couple of hrs then check the oil again, if it is turning milky you have a leak that you need to find and fix, check the seals first.
It's looking like a beast! When you come to Australia us for a sail 😆
Thanks!
yooo! thanks so much mate!!
Looking good! Add a LED strip behind the skateboard for some indirect lighting.
2.18 - I thought we were going to get a blast of Pink Floyd - whoop!!!...Another grrreat episode, not boring at all! Watched with Bonnie & Luca & both missing their Uncle Mark😢...Love love looooove the Skateboard & steps...Match all your cushions😂...So darn proud - but I think you know that dont you Sparks...Love, as always, 🌈🌻🤗Mum 🤗🌻🌈
For the motor mount i use a 5 mm plastic cutting board :) the aluminium one is good on the other side where the screws are. I also use true bolts to secure the engine so it doesent break off when full turn and high thrust.
Will you be painting the lower ends of the motors with antifouling since they have corrosion ?
Two suggestions for you, 1,you have a wave deflector in front of the motors (many modern cats have them), 2. a pair of turnbuckles fitted to the rudder connecting rod to tension the steering ropes (cables). If it makes things easier to route the cables you don't have to connect to the centre of the rod.
Wow get you Mark! Quite the engineer. Well done mate.
Mount a light behind the skateboard for some added nighttime vibes! Well done!
Never boring Mark. So interesting & I look forward to your clip every week
I think your engine transoms need a little reinforcing, with the engines down in a rough "following" sea they could easily tear them off. (belt and braces approach)
Mount an LED light behind the skatboard for difused lighting.
The School of Hard Knocks teaches well and the lessons are not forgotten. Learning from others is faster, cheaper and painless. Some how I prefer the latter.
Hello farind 🌹
Not sure if you already have one but I suggest a “battery master on/off switch” between the battery and outboards, you’re doing well for a young fella, all the best.
when you removed the prop their was some fishing line behind it. That would have cut out the seal causing water to get in the gear case. I would think you will have to change the oil seal in that unit. Also you do not have to tighten the living daylights out of that gear case screw. just a big screwdriver will be tight enough. I have run outboards for 50 years & only ever used a screwdriver & never had one even start to get loose. The possible reason the motor appears is not pumping as much is cause the thermostat is jammed open. When the thermostat is closed more water is forced to the tell tail circuit. would be good to replace both of them. only a 5 minute job. they are on the top left side of the power head.
Looking great Mark, love the pop of colour, makes a difference. Getting there for sure, we all need some relief from all the rain. 😅
As others have said, the oil is white because it has got water in it. Normal cause for it is the oil seal behind the prop gets buggered up due to fishing line being wrapped around the shaft and being forced under the seal. I did see you remove some fishing line, was that from the motor with the white oil? Replace the seal asap.
Water in the oil don't you mean to say