Well done. I'm not in the business of giving critiques. As long as a person can read and follow instructions, they should have very little to no issues, especially following an installation video such as this and being patient. Thanks for the content!
The soliloquies were actually quite helpful :) You have a clear way of explaining and demoing these things for amateurs like me. Makes you wonder how many "professionals" out there are skipping more than a few items on that checklist. Appreciate it.
I'm running a TTS250, no need to change the springs, I'm at 148hp/157tq on a LRS.... this winter I'm increasing the compression and installing a bigger cam... but the TTS250 is been very good!!!! Cool video!!!!
When working with the pushrods, I put the bottom o-ring around the tube until I'm done adjusting to keep it out of my way. It'll sit right on top of the tube flat. 😊
Trask Turbo . . . so the engine isn't struggling to breathe making the power your looking to achieve. A turbo at 8lbs of boost just makes sure there's air ready when the valve opens so there's 100% volume efficiency felling the cylinder instead of 75~80%
My stage 1 96" 2009 fxd would be as reliable with a small cam n adjustable pushrods as the stock motor is??? Assuming my crank run out is decent of course
Gear drive cams require little to no run out, chain drive cams allow more run out I believe..gotta check b4 ordering a cam, is what my homework has shown...I'm a welder not a HD tech btw
Yup! It's a tremendously important indicator of the motors health and you want to know where you're at. Different setups require different tolerances, but even more than that you don't want to be spending time and money upgrading a bad bottom end.
So why on earth would you check your spacing dry and then use assembly lube between the spacers? Granted most of the lube will sqeeze out when they're pressed together but you won't have the same spacing spec you did when it was dry and thats a fact, seems counterproductive to me.
Super! Glad to see you back with content!!!
Well done. I'm not in the business of giving critiques. As long as a person can read and follow instructions, they should have very little to no issues, especially following an installation video such as this and being patient. Thanks for the content!
The soliloquies were actually quite helpful :) You have a clear way of explaining and demoing these things for amateurs like me. Makes you wonder how many "professionals" out there are skipping more than a few items on that checklist. Appreciate it.
Always worth the wait. Quality not quantity 😊
I'm running a TTS250, no need to change the springs, I'm at 148hp/157tq on a LRS.... this winter I'm increasing the compression and installing a bigger cam... but the TTS250 is been very good!!!! Cool video!!!!
When working with the pushrods, I put the bottom o-ring around the tube until I'm done adjusting to keep it out of my way. It'll sit right on top of the tube flat. 😊
me 2
about time someone mentioned aliening the sprockets. My m8 had a .110 stock it needed a .140 when i did my cam.
What head pipe did the bike have. Was it a tab head pipe or the one that comes with the 131 kit?
Damn man. I was wondering where ya went. I’m looking to come over from Cleveland to have you do a cam in a new Lowrider S. Talk to ya soon.
Trask Turbo . . . so the engine isn't struggling to breathe making the power your looking to achieve. A turbo at 8lbs of boost just makes sure there's air ready when the valve opens so there's 100% volume efficiency felling the cylinder instead of 75~80%
My stage 1 96" 2009 fxd would be as reliable with a small cam n adjustable pushrods as the stock motor is??? Assuming my crank run out is decent of course
Yes, a mild cam done correctly will not adversely affect reliability - and with upgraded lifters/oil pump/etc. your reliability will actually improve.
@IronAnchorCycles ok thanks ! I've only got 12K miles on bike and gotta really justify opening it up n changing parts but that's a piece of mind🤘
Love your vids!
Nice, put, 2-1 D@D, it will wake up. Lol
fyi fueling company found out the plastic guides from HD are better then the aluminum from S&S ,because of taper .
do you always check the runout before installing a cam?
Gear drive cams require little to no run out, chain drive cams allow more run out I believe..gotta check b4 ordering a cam, is what my homework has shown...I'm a welder not a HD tech btw
Yup! It's a tremendously important indicator of the motors health and you want to know where you're at. Different setups require different tolerances, but even more than that you don't want to be spending time and money upgrading a bad bottom end.
@@IronAnchorCyclesit’s been a little while , love your detailed videos. Keep up the great work
So why on earth would you check your spacing dry and then use assembly lube between the spacers? Granted most of the lube will sqeeze out when they're pressed together but you won't have the same spacing spec you did when it was dry and thats a fact, seems counterproductive to me.
For the love of God, put some suspension on this bike!
👍🏽👍🏽
Runout ? Hmmmm
2:00 it is entirely emissions stopping Harley, nothing else.
No need for upgraded oil pump.