What I needed was a step by step of what SVT Kevin did. Take apart and re-assemble is the hard part. Everything else you went through is the easy part.
There is a UA-cam video that shows step by step. Remove leaf debris cover (This cover is held in place by three plastic spread fasteners and an integral bracket that clips to a cross brace. The fasteners have a center pin that when pushed in spreads the fastener to hold. Lift the center pin up using a knife blade and then you can extract the complete fastener). Next - remove the diagonal brace to provide clearance. Suggest you loosen the bolt at the end nearest firewall, remove bolt from the other end and swing the brace out of the way. Next - remove the wiring harness assembly sitting on top of the blower motor housing. The harnessing is integral to a plastic plate mounted to the blower motor housing. Do not disconnect the control wires. Disconnect the power supply wire at stud (warning - this is a live wire, cover with electrical tap to avoid grounding). Lay the power wire over out of the way. To remove the wiring harness assembly complete there is only one T25 fastener on the outboard side to loosen (unscrew enough to release the plate from the housing but do not back the screw completely out). Slide the plate forward to disengage from two catches at back edge. Lay the plate over (forward) to get out of the way and reveal the blower motor housing. There are four T25 fasteners holding the blower motor housing in place. Two are toward the firewall and one on each side. (Again loosen the screws enough to release but don’t back completely out). There is a sensor clipped to the outboard forward corner of the blower motor housing that needs to released to remove the housing (the sensor is attached to the housing by an integral plastic tab fastener, use a small flat screwdriver to gently work the tab to release). The housing cover lifts out.
I fixed mine with a piece I cut from a 3M Filteret Basic filter used for Window Mounting A/C units. The filter is very low resistance while the material is washable and long lasting compared to the material on the original part. For securing the filter piece into the case cover, I used a doble sided tape for electronics. The adhesive is strong while still removable if I need to replace the filter piece in the future. No need to spend on the original cover unless the part is cracked. My part cost was just under US$6.00
Fixed mine by replacing the cheap torn sponge with a $6 fiberglass tough film screen cut to the right size and glued all around with a hot glue gun! This will be a permanent fix! Also replaced the dirty and stinky mildew cabin filter with the BEST cabin filter u can by and thats the "MicroAir blue" cabin filter by Corteco giving you the ultimate air filtration through ur vents! Worth every penny. Also before installing the new cabin filter, sprayed some Lysol or a like all over the filter cabin housing under the glove box to eliminate any mildew leftovers and kill any smell that was there in the first place! My bmw f10 smells fresh now!
I just replaced my cabin air filter hoping to fix this loud noise problem. There was a lot of that material that deteriorated from the housing cover that was in cabin air filter during my replacement. Noise is still there so definitely some leaves in my blower cage. Saving this for another day...
Great video. Just fixed mine with a fiberglass filter that I cut to size. I was able to do the whole job in under an hour and I only dropped 2 screws into the void of my engine bay! Good content
Wow thank you! This is def whats wrong with my car. I changed my cabin filter because of a smell but nothing, i did however find pieces of that black filter in cabin filter area.
Thank you for responding when you say even though the water pump is working there could be a fault does that mean that the water pump is not working correctly or something else? And also when you say there is a module or a relay in the trunk what do I need to do in the trunk too correct the problem?
Ben T. If it the original water pump it could be failing. It might not set a check engine light but could still have a fault in the computer for low speed or binding of the electric water pump. I would get faults read before replacing anything else.
Hi great video. I have a 2011 535i Xdrive and recently my fan kicks on real loud goes on and off on and off and you can hear it super loud I have replace the coolant temperature sensor the thermostat and the water pump are working correctly I'm so confused because it's still kicks on and off on and off can you please tell me if you think it's any other sensors or what the problem can be?
Even though the water pump is working you should verify that there is no water pump fault that is the most common cause for the fan being super loud. Also those cars use a fan relay/module and I believe it’s located in the trunk by the battery.
I've also replace the tensioner with a new serpentine belt as well as fresh oil change with an O-ring and a housing gasket for oil case. Still have the sand come on and off on and off very loud my temperature in the vehicle does not stay at one point once it reaches the normal level the fan kicks on and it drops it down and the fan goes off and driving 10 minutes as the temperature rises to the normal level again the fan kicks on and off for about 10 minutes and cools the engine again and the fan goes off.
Hello there I’ve been watching your video. very instructive showing to do this our self. By the way, I’ve got the same problem and the 2 rear screws unable to reach. How can I get to them? I mean, the blower housing, the top cover with 3 screws.
Norberto Lacomba, the one one the back closer to the fender I go from behind the hood. The other one in the back a small extension they are t25 socket or bit
Do y’all know if a blower motor could cause my heat in my bmw to work for like 10 seconds then cut off & my ac doesn’t work at all. Super weird. I had the diagnostics done on it and I have the codes it’s throwing if that would help??
Question would this be something that would be replaced if my air/heat isn’t blowing out at all? It’s just sometimes very lightly blows a small amount of air… could it be the blower that you pulled out? Or is there’s a way to eliminate different options I read a lot about a transmitter but I couldn’t find the thing if my life depended on it lol .
Hey bro, can you tell me where the blower Moter resister is located? I’m trying to replace mine but don’t know where it is. I have a 2012 528i thanks in advance!
It is screwed to the bottom of the blower motor. So you have to remove the blower. If you doing the resistor I would replace the motor and cover to the motor. Motors an know for burning up! Thanks for watching
My f10’ 520D MSPORT recently has started to to make a whining/whistling sound when accelerating. Any suggestions on what it could be? The cars done 107K and recently changed oil and oil filter on it.
Any update ln this? Was the sound like when making a Balloon whistle? I have the same kinda noice on my 2012 M5 when accelerate on cold engine, all Hoses and pipes in engine bay have been checked for leaks
Views 566, what tip of noise? I assume it is an N20 4 cylinder turbo, the early production N20’s had very loud knocking noise from the fuel high pressure fuel pump. Timing chains start going bad the make a whining type noise. Or compressor could be failing
Dicky's Garage I did not disconnect the fan and my red led from the battery hit the stabilizer bar and caused a spark. Afterwards my car gave a “Drivetrain Malfunction” warning and I can’t start my car! Please help! What did I break?
You need to see if it has power at the terminal that hit the strut bar. If not, there is a 100amp fuse on the battery f-502. If it does have power, you need to pop off the cover and there are fuses down in there too.
@@nonofficial3013did you get this problem fixed? I encountered the same problem yesterday trying to clean the fan blower and didn’t unplug the battery :( I have a drivetrain malfunction now, the car cranks but won’t start…..
Hey, my car needs Jesus…. I can’t pinpoint the issue and reading around just makes me feel like burning it… if you can if there a way to FaceTime when I hit the gas even in park I get a loud clicking sound(not the normal) like plastic is grinding but I’ve checked everything I know how to check ( no rubbing)
Hello, I did all of this and my car is still making that jet engine noise. So, I changed the blower and now I have no heat or a/c..what could I've possibly done wrong?
BMW did not update the air filter material. Instead of replacing the cover, replace the filter element. Use rain gutter screen or fireplace or metal window screen material if you want a finer screen. Cut to shape and size, slip into position (will take some flexing and bending) and hot glue ends in place. Will save you ridiculous cost of new blower motor housing and the metal screen will never dissolve like the media BMW uses.
I really needed them to show the process of taking the assembly apart.
What I needed was a step by step of what SVT Kevin did. Take apart and re-assemble is the hard part. Everything else you went through is the easy part.
There is a UA-cam video that shows step by step. Remove leaf debris cover (This cover is held in place by three plastic spread fasteners and an integral bracket that clips to a cross brace. The fasteners have a center pin that when pushed in spreads the fastener to hold. Lift the center pin up using a knife blade and then you can extract the complete fastener). Next - remove the diagonal brace to provide clearance. Suggest you loosen the bolt at the end nearest firewall, remove bolt from the other end and swing the brace out of the way. Next - remove the wiring harness assembly sitting on top of the blower motor housing. The harnessing is integral to a plastic plate mounted to the blower motor housing. Do not disconnect the control wires. Disconnect the power supply wire at stud (warning - this is a live wire, cover with electrical tap to avoid grounding). Lay the power wire over out of the way. To remove the wiring harness assembly complete there is only one T25 fastener on the outboard side to loosen (unscrew enough to release the plate from the housing but do not back the screw completely out). Slide the plate forward to disengage from two catches at back edge. Lay the plate over (forward) to get out of the way and reveal the blower motor housing. There are four T25 fasteners holding the blower motor housing in place. Two are toward the firewall and one on each side. (Again loosen the screws enough to release but don’t back completely out). There is a sensor clipped to the outboard forward corner of the blower motor housing that needs to released to remove the housing (the sensor is attached to the housing by an integral plastic tab fastener, use a small flat screwdriver to gently work the tab to release). The housing cover lifts out.
ua-cam.com/video/J4HcNS2kvuQ/v-deo.html
I fixed mine with a piece I cut from a 3M Filteret Basic filter used for Window Mounting A/C units. The filter is very low resistance while the material is washable and long lasting compared to the material on the original part. For securing the filter piece into the case cover, I used a doble sided tape for electronics. The adhesive is strong while still removable if I need to replace the filter piece in the future. No need to spend on the original cover unless the part is cracked. My part cost was just under US$6.00
thanks for putting part number in the description!
Fixed mine by replacing the cheap torn sponge with a $6 fiberglass tough film screen cut to the right size and glued all around with a hot glue gun! This will be a permanent fix!
Also replaced the dirty and stinky mildew cabin filter with the BEST cabin filter u can by and thats the "MicroAir blue" cabin filter by Corteco giving you the ultimate air filtration through ur vents! Worth every penny. Also before installing the new cabin filter, sprayed some Lysol or a like all over the filter cabin housing under the glove box to eliminate any mildew leftovers and kill any smell that was there in the first place! My bmw f10 smells fresh now!
Good idea in the sponge mid. I need to try that cabin filter. I've only used the stock charcoal filters in the past.
I just replaced my cabin air filter hoping to fix this loud noise problem. There was a lot of that material that deteriorated from the housing cover that was in cabin air filter during my replacement. Noise is still there so definitely some leaves in my blower cage. Saving this for another day...
Same , literally did the same thing
Great video. Just fixed mine with a fiberglass filter that I cut to size. I was able to do the whole job in under an hour and I only dropped 2 screws into the void of my engine bay! Good content
Did u disconnect the battery?
Wow thank you! This is def whats wrong with my car. I changed my cabin filter because of a smell but nothing, i did however find pieces of that black filter in cabin filter area.
Thanks to you I fixed my car’s vibrating blower. 👊
It amazing what a difference it makes.
Dicky's Garage what year is this 535?
@@LASLAY13 2012
My 2013 sounds just like that!!!! I need a step by step for dummies!
Super helpful. I just replaced that screen but didn’t check the fan wheel.
Thank you for responding when you say even though the water pump is working there could be a fault does that mean that the water pump is not working correctly or something else? And also when you say there is a module or a relay in the trunk what do I need to do in the trunk too correct the problem?
Ben T. If it the original water pump it could be failing. It might not set a check engine light but could still have a fault in the computer for low speed or binding of the electric water pump. I would get faults read before replacing anything else.
@@svtkevin7533 sounds good. Thank you for your time.
@@collegemoversusa6075 Were able to fix the problem?
I have the same problem. You dont have to change the motor of the air vent?
Excellent video guys. Big thumbs up!
I appreciate this video man it really helped me!
Wow seems to be teh same problem in my f10! Will check it out this weekend!
Did it work?
@@dickysgarage7120 yes bro!! had teh exact same problem as yours and I could easily take the whole thing out and clean it up! Runs like brand new now!
Hi great video.
I have a 2011 535i Xdrive and recently my fan kicks on real loud goes on and off on and off and you can hear it super loud I have replace the coolant temperature sensor the thermostat and the water pump are working correctly I'm so confused because it's still kicks on and off on and off can you please tell me if you think it's any other sensors or what the problem can be?
Even though the water pump is working you should verify that there is no water pump fault that is the most common cause for the fan being super loud. Also those cars use a fan relay/module and I believe it’s located in the trunk by the battery.
I've also replace the tensioner with a new serpentine belt as well as fresh oil change with an O-ring and a housing gasket for oil case. Still have the sand come on and off on and off very loud my temperature in the vehicle does not stay at one point once it reaches the normal level the fan kicks on and it drops it down and the fan goes off and driving 10 minutes as the temperature rises to the normal level again the fan kicks on and off for about 10 minutes and cools the engine again and the fan goes off.
Did this problem make it so that it was not much air flow trugh the vents when in use?
Between this and changing the cabin filters I felt a big improvement with air flow.
Hello there I’ve been watching your video. very instructive showing to do this our self. By the way, I’ve got the same problem and the 2 rear screws unable to reach. How can I get to them? I mean, the blower housing, the top cover with 3 screws.
I just forwarded your comment to SVT Kevin. He should be able to help sort out what's going on with yours.
Norberto Lacomba, the one one the back closer to the fender I go from behind the hood. The other one in the back a small extension they are t25 socket or bit
Do y’all know if a blower motor could cause my heat in my bmw to work for like 10 seconds then cut off & my ac doesn’t work at all. Super weird. I had the diagnostics done on it and I have the codes it’s throwing if that would help??
Was your fan throwing any codes?
Did you have to disconnect the battery?
Question would this be something that would be replaced if my air/heat isn’t blowing out at all? It’s just sometimes very lightly blows a small amount of air… could it be the blower that you pulled out? Or is there’s a way to eliminate different options I read a lot about a transmitter but I couldn’t find the thing if my life depended on it lol .
Mine is doing the same thing!!!
I wish we got a better view on how to remove and replace. I have the same problem.
ua-cam.com/video/J4HcNS2kvuQ/v-deo.html
Hey bro, can you tell me where the blower Moter resister is located? I’m trying to replace mine but don’t know where it is. I have a 2012 528i thanks in advance!
It is screwed to the bottom of the blower motor. So you have to remove the blower. If you doing the resistor I would replace the motor and cover to the motor. Motors an know for burning up! Thanks for watching
Svt Kevin Thank you!
What’s that part called?
My f10’ 520D MSPORT recently has started to to make a whining/whistling sound when accelerating. Any suggestions on what it could be? The cars done 107K and recently changed oil and oil filter on it.
Does it do it sitting still when you rev it up?
If its coming from the back of the car it could be your diff. It crapped out in my f10 535 at 105k
Any update ln this? Was the sound like when making a Balloon whistle? I have the same kinda noice on my 2012 M5 when accelerate on cold engine, all Hoses and pipes in engine bay have been checked for leaks
I have the same problem 2016 f10 520 sound like balloon whistle 😢
Has this car ever had the radiator fan turn on and off randomly?
Mine hasn't. Does yours have fault codes? It could be water pump, thermostat or AC related. The fault codes will likely tell the story.
Interesting thing for me is this noise only came a month after my blower was replaced……. Now I’m wondering if they actually replaced the blower
Same, like a week after. I need to open it up and see why. You fix?
Where is the FSU located? On top of that cover?
I'm not sure what you're calling a "FSU".
thanks. i will test that on my 550i and post a french video :)
My 2012 bmw 528i makes a loud noise sounds like it’s coming from the engine ...it usually does it when the ac/heat gets turned on ...any suggestions
Views 566, what tip of noise? I assume it is an N20 4 cylinder turbo, the early production N20’s had very loud knocking noise from the fuel high pressure fuel pump. Timing chains start going bad the make a whining type noise. Or compressor could be failing
Svt Kevin yeah it’s a n20 4 cylinder turbo......it sounds like a generator sort of ...
Thank you! Bro God bless you!
great video guys! Did you disconnect the battery to do this job? I didnt see Kevin unplug anything
No
One dumb question: when replacing the blower resistor should disconnect battery
Yes I would to be safe
Dicky's Garage I did not disconnect the fan and my red led from the battery hit the stabilizer bar and caused a spark. Afterwards my car gave a “Drivetrain Malfunction” warning and I can’t start my car! Please help!
What did I break?
Dicky's Garage not fab but battery
You need to see if it has power at the terminal that hit the strut bar. If not, there is a 100amp fuse on the battery f-502. If it does have power, you need to pop off the cover and there are fuses down in there too.
@@nonofficial3013did you get this problem fixed? I encountered the same problem yesterday trying to clean the fan blower and didn’t unplug the battery :( I have a drivetrain malfunction now, the car cranks but won’t start…..
Hey, my car needs Jesus…. I can’t pinpoint the issue and reading around just makes me feel like burning it… if you can if there a way to FaceTime when I hit the gas even in park I get a loud clicking sound(not the normal) like plastic is grinding but I’ve checked everything I know how to check ( no rubbing)
This was a great fix . Why bmw use cheap parts .
Hello, I did all of this and my car is still making that jet engine noise. So, I changed the blower and now I have no heat or a/c..what could I've possibly done wrong?
It sounds like you may have left something unplugged. I would start by double checking the connections .
@@dickysgarage7120 thank you!
Why not keep the same housing and replace the element with a screen material?
I thought the same thing. Turns out the part is really not that expensive. It could be fixed though.
That SVT Kevin guy seems shady!
waycool jr 😂😂😂
How much did this cost you without labor?
I think the part was $60-$90 from BMW. I can't remember exactly.
Nice job ..kevin.....mi 535i GT le cambiaron el blower y la resistencia y taldaron 8dias y me cobraron 800.00 dolares 😞
BMW did not update the air filter material. Instead of replacing the cover, replace the filter element. Use rain gutter screen or fireplace or metal window screen material if you want a finer screen. Cut to shape and size, slip into position (will take some flexing and bending) and hot glue ends in place. Will save you ridiculous cost of new blower motor housing and the metal screen will never dissolve like the media BMW uses.
Do you have your AC disabled when the problem was unfixed?
I'm not sure I understand the question. This issue had nothing to do with the AC. Just the blower motor.
if u r a handy man perfect, now for me as total beginner would be worse to screw it up and then to be even with a bigger problem in the end :D
I need to get that done the noise drives my wife crazy.
Omg mine sound exactly like that
Ohhh that’s how my Audi sounds rn
Has anyone told you you sound like Alex Jones?