As another Honda guy for 40 years , I would recommend a stress relief and balance of the standard rods this can be done on a budget . With stress relieving simply remove all the possible stress risers on each side of the I beam around the gudgeon pin boss by polishing . Stress risers are the tiny indentations at right angles to the beam where stress cracks form . The most important areas are rod shoulder and under the pin support boss . The rods are rather thin having seen several that have bent severely due to either petrol or water hydraulics . Balancing can be done by using lightweight springs screwed to a board . One through the small end one through the big end and suspend against a board . Mark the position of both the small end and big end on the backboard . Remove the metal from the heaviest ones to match . A cheap electronic scale that has a 1 gramme tolerance can be used to measure final weight of each rod . Its pretty pointless spending money on ARP bolts when your rods are the weakest link . Flow is more important than pressure in an oil pump , both are desirable so work inside both the inlet and outlet of the pump is essential to reduce pump cavitation an aerstion . The washer you made looks pretty thick . You do not have to compress the relief spring that much to burst oil filters and pop lines . I tried this many decades ago to get out for the next race to compensate for a rolled bearing in the first heat by adding a slightly thicker washer . The end stopped knocking but after 5 mins the fuel filter blew itself apart ! 'Crush' is a term that relates to how much a gasket , bearing etc ., compresses under the torquing process . A head gasket for a D series engine will be around 0.006- 0.009" and when torqued down reduces to 0.004- 0.007" or whatever this is 'crush' . Always retain your old head gaskets to use in calcs for Compression ratio , valve clearance etc . A shell bearing for the crank when inserted into its position in the rod or block will require slight compression to insert , this is also ' crush' . If you do not have bearing crush then your rods or block have a problem and should be discarded or corrected by an expensive machining process . I currently race a D13 B7 block with D15 head and my version of a torquey D16AZ cam with a bit more lift and duration (ground from the old D15 shaft so not really a D16AZ can at all , except it has a slightly longer exhaust duration than inlet ) in a 750kg Honda Logo Stock Rod short oval formula , that is constantly at max rpm 7500-8000 most of the time with completely original standard bottom end ( after inspecting crank and bearings ) except for the oil pump and pickup tube which is modified for going fast around right hand bends ( Im English so we go clockwise) . The steel sump is more than adequately baffled and actually better than some aluminium aftermarket designs I've seen so stuck with that as its lighter and will not puncture as easy with track debris . There are also a number of other mods I do within the regulations that enable me to keep up with 1.4 and 1.6 litre engined cars , simply because the torque generated by this little engine is more than adequate to run with Toyotas , Citroens and GM type 16 v compacts running full race cams at higher rpm .When building an engine , the cam , induction ,exhaust , porting etc is dependent on what you are going to do with that engine . In the formula more power at the expense of torque is not what I need . The head can only have a 3 angle seat cut which is fine as D series heads flow well anyway . Cam and pulley is free as is compression ratio on 97 PON fuel , electronic ignition if standard but it has to run on a carburettor on a stock manifold and no fuel injection or VTEC permitted . This is where thinking outside the box builds you a very quick little car . This is not cheating , its simply knowing more about engine design and physics than the fastest guy on the track .
Thanks for watching them! Out of all my builds i have to say i loved this one the most. The engine had so much tq and pulled really good for being N/A and the guy who i sold my car to still driving it around and its even quicker now with the dyno tune.
#Detailintheshadow yup been back since December. Hit the bell notification to get notified when I do uploads. Been taking this car from the junkyard save to what it is. It’s turning out nice!
I know this is an old video, but never hit the crank girdle/caps or cast aluminum like that with a solid metal hammer or dead blow. Aluminum can't take the impact like that and will fatigue or crack, and you won't be able to tell you cracked it. Use rubber or soft blow hammers for jobs like this.
Raeleen Mandy I actually did gap mine but it was a mistake lol I actually threw brand new ungapped rings back in because the gapped were not good enough lol
Can you make a video how to start an engine on the engine stand before it goes to the engine bay .because alot of us want to make sure it runs before it goes to the bay of you can
Arturo Garcia I don’t even have a engine stand anymore and I wouldn’t be able to do it without a transmission attached. I could do it if I made a custom harness to reach but it’s not very practical on a Honda engine without custom modifications but I’m sure one day I can do a video of it
casey87 I got it honed, crank polish and mic done to crank, rods need resized after installing arp studs.. normally it needs bored over but I wanted to keep stock specs
James D guy, as in mic u mean they miced ur crank for a certain size rod and main bearings for the right clearances? Or is that something I need to do plastic guaging.
casey87 they checked to make sure the rod journals were all within spec and they were so they did a micro polish on the journals and They measured the cylinder and did a home, also yes use plasti gauge to make sure it’s within spec always.
Hey james,sorry bro but i watched the vid but i believe i missed the explanation to as why your using the stock rods,can you please explain,all knowledge is very useful thanks!!
Salvador Morales The factory D16 rods hold up to 225whp we tested this many times with boosted setups. With all motor D setups they usually never see over 210whp so they are safe to use. Now if you use nitrous you need forged rods.
@@JamesDguy thank you very much james that info was useful and am very much appreciated for your reply, see thats what i love about cars and mechanics you learn something new eveyday
@@JamesDguy will they weaken over time and mileage of car? I had to buy a replacement motor since the block crank and rods went bad. I'm debating on just fixing what needs fix or start building it
Arturo Garcia 75mm are stock cylinder wall sizes. If you bore it over it can be 75.5mm or 76mm but if Ur taking stock pistons out and replacing them you need 75mm
The oil pump isn't responsible for higher oil pressure , the pumps job is to move volume not create pressure, bearing clearances are what's responsible for oil pressure , but good video none the less
majorkin19 Thanks we have had oil pressure drop due to oil pump flow characteristics. When we did a pump shim the oil pressure would increase due to flow increase. Fluid dynamics explains how the small hole causes higher oil pressure but yea the pump itself don’t cause the oil pressure but the amount of flow it can push out does. Either way thanks for the comment!
corbin parvin once cam and everything is done my end goal is 200hp but it won’t put that down right away it’s gonna take a lot of tuning and adjustments but I’d be happy with 150hp for now and it don’t sound like much but in a light sedan and the d series tq curve it should do great. Hell might spray some day just because haha
What's the highest Horse Power you can get out of a D16Z6 without putting a Turbo on it and still keep it Naturally Aspirated? I was hoping by changing pistons, porting, polishing, better intake manifold, better header etc. and maybe tuning etc. it could get at least 160 HP's...
i like the intro man. Hey i was trying to remind you about the video that i was going to upload about my civic? I was wondering if you might be on later on tonight if not i can upload it tomorow morning.
YCP pistons. I typed in D16 High compression P29 pistons. The ones with teflon coating are the best they reduce engine noise from "piston slap" Sorry for the late reply.
What is these pistons part number bro? I'm planning to use these pistons and zero gap rings in my d16y8 engine build. Maybe some H beam rods too. I was looking for d16b5 pistons but is nothing online. ➕ I gotta keep my car California smog legal.
You find them on ebay. High compression d16 pistons. I don't know what to say about 0 gap rings and if you keep it na I would use the stock rods, because forged ones are heavy and would make the rotating assembly spin slower, thus robbing you of power
As another Honda guy for 40 years , I would recommend a stress relief and balance of the standard rods this can be done on a budget . With stress relieving simply remove all the possible stress risers on each side of the I beam around the gudgeon pin boss by polishing . Stress risers are the tiny indentations at right angles to the beam where stress cracks form . The most important areas are rod shoulder and under the pin support boss . The rods are rather thin having seen several that have bent severely due to either petrol or water hydraulics . Balancing can be done by using lightweight springs screwed to a board . One through the small end one through the big end and suspend against a board . Mark the position of both the small end and big end on the backboard . Remove the metal from the heaviest ones to match . A cheap electronic scale that has a 1 gramme tolerance can be used to measure final weight of each rod . Its pretty pointless spending money on ARP bolts when your rods are the weakest link .
Flow is more important than pressure in an oil pump , both are desirable so work inside both the inlet and outlet of the pump is essential to reduce pump cavitation an aerstion . The washer you made looks pretty thick . You do not have to compress the relief spring that much to burst oil filters and pop lines . I tried this many decades ago to get out for the next race to compensate for a rolled bearing in the first heat by adding a slightly thicker washer . The end stopped knocking but after 5 mins the fuel filter blew itself apart !
'Crush' is a term that relates to how much a gasket , bearing etc ., compresses under the torquing process . A head gasket for a D series engine will be around 0.006- 0.009" and when torqued down reduces to 0.004- 0.007" or whatever this is 'crush' . Always retain your old head gaskets to use in calcs for Compression ratio , valve clearance etc . A shell bearing for the crank when inserted into its position in the rod or block will require slight compression to insert , this is also ' crush' . If you do not have bearing crush then your rods or block have a problem and should be discarded or corrected by an expensive machining process .
I currently race a D13 B7 block with D15 head and my version of a torquey D16AZ cam with a bit more lift and duration (ground from the old D15 shaft so not really a D16AZ can at all , except it has a slightly longer exhaust duration than inlet ) in a 750kg Honda Logo Stock Rod short oval formula , that is constantly at max rpm 7500-8000 most of the time with completely original standard bottom end ( after inspecting crank and bearings ) except for the oil pump and pickup tube which is modified for going fast around right hand bends ( Im English so we go clockwise) . The steel sump is more than adequately baffled and actually better than some aluminium aftermarket designs I've seen so stuck with that as its lighter and will not puncture as easy with track debris . There are also a number of other mods I do within the regulations that enable me to keep up with 1.4 and 1.6 litre engined cars , simply because the torque generated by this little engine is more than adequate to run with Toyotas , Citroens and GM type 16 v compacts running full race cams at higher rpm .When building an engine , the cam , induction ,exhaust , porting etc is dependent on what you are going to do with that engine . In the formula more power at the expense of torque is not what I need . The head can only have a 3 angle seat cut which is fine as D series heads flow well anyway . Cam and pulley is free as is compression ratio on 97 PON fuel , electronic ignition if standard but it has to run on a carburettor on a stock manifold and no fuel injection or VTEC permitted . This is where thinking outside the box builds you a very quick little car . This is not cheating , its simply knowing more about engine design and physics than the fastest guy on the track .
James you are a legend.
Thanks for posting these build vids, I'm trying my hand at a P29 build and these are very helpful
Thanks for watching them! Out of all my builds i have to say i loved this one the most. The engine had so much tq and pulled really good for being N/A and the guy who i sold my car to still driving it around and its even quicker now with the dyno tune.
Great how he involved his children.
Good you cane back to Honda! I miss my old JDM D16zc!
#Detailintheshadow yup been back since December. Hit the bell notification to get notified when I do uploads. Been taking this car from the junkyard save to what it is. It’s turning out nice!
Moore Motorsports James Dguy yes long time subscriber
Lol that's awesome just commented on the last vid saying I'm doing a high comp d16 and here this comes🔥
Leonard Lowe I can not wait till it’s all together!
Great vids, can’t wait for the next one
Awesome content bro! Can't wait for the next one!
HondaRoadk1l got the last pieces today just gotta get rods resized
James D guy that's great bro! I'll keep watching! Great tip on the oil pump
This video helped me alot Thanks James dguy
Hey James, looking great dude. Hope it runs badass
Yea I’m really praying for the best!!
James D guy I got faith in you bud. You’ll do fine
Looking good man 💪 Keep up the videos
awesome video man. Good stuff
Awesome build
truelegendracer can’t wait till it’s done
Always awesome content brotha!
Nice job man👌.
Stacy Pfingsten thank you sir
James D guy hey I thought you already had a high performance cam ?
Stacy Pfingsten it did but it was a trash cam I sent it back. I should make a update video as to that DON’T BUY JASMA RACE CAM
Right on bro
I know this is an old video, but never hit the crank girdle/caps or cast aluminum like that with a solid metal hammer or dead blow. Aluminum can't take the impact like that and will fatigue or crack, and you won't be able to tell you cracked it. Use rubber or soft blow hammers for jobs like this.
Still helping people 3 years later lol
Good video man
.04 is 40 thousandth of an inch. .004 is like the thickness of a human hair.
Not trying to be a dick. I work at a machine shop/fab shop and the reading caught my eye. Thought I’d say something.
Will i need to mod the oil pump if im using 75.5mm stock dome d15 pistons?
Do you think these pistons can handle low boost ok, thinking of picking them up for my zc dohc
What is the horse power increase using P 29 pistons over stock
What gap you run with?rings
James on low compression and high compression do you need to do the gap for the piston if so what's the gap for them or how can i fine out
Raeleen Mandy I actually did gap mine but it was a mistake lol I actually threw brand new ungapped rings back in because the gapped were not good enough lol
Did you use stock bearing and piston rings?
When you put the eBay coilovers on your car did it get really bouncy afterwards
What size are the piston? Do you think they’ll fit a d15 b?
Can you make a video how to start an engine on the engine stand before it goes to the engine bay .because alot of us want to make sure it runs before it goes to the bay of you can
Arturo Garcia I don’t even have a engine stand anymore and I wouldn’t be able to do it without a transmission attached. I could do it if I made a custom harness to reach but it’s not very practical on a Honda engine without custom modifications but I’m sure one day I can do a video of it
James D guy thank you
What all machine work did u have done? And thank you so much I am getting ready to build my mini high comp y7/z6 for my first build
casey87 I got it honed, crank polish and mic done to crank, rods need resized after installing arp studs.. normally it needs bored over but I wanted to keep stock specs
James D guy, as in mic u mean they miced ur crank for a certain size rod and main bearings for the right clearances? Or is that something I need to do plastic guaging.
casey87 they checked to make sure the rod journals were all within spec and they were so they did a micro polish on the journals and They measured the cylinder and did a home, also yes use plasti gauge to make sure it’s within spec always.
James D guy thanks a lot man keep up with the great videos
Hey james,sorry bro but i watched the vid but i believe i missed the explanation to as why your using the stock rods,can you please explain,all knowledge is very useful thanks!!
Salvador Morales The factory D16 rods hold up to 225whp we tested this many times with boosted setups. With all motor D setups they usually never see over 210whp so they are safe to use. Now if you use nitrous you need forged rods.
@@JamesDguy thank you very much james that info was useful and am very much appreciated for your reply, see thats what i love about cars and mechanics you learn something new eveyday
Should've changed the rods, the y7 rods are weak and can snap like a toothpick under high compression
They handle up to 225hp. We found it boost on my old EF hatch. Stock hold up till about 225hp or 18psi lol
@@JamesDguy good deal I thought your goal was higher but 200HP is plenty
But how many rpm's will they handle?
@@JamesDguy will they weaken over time and mileage of car? I had to buy a replacement motor since the block crank and rods went bad. I'm debating on just fixing what needs fix or start building it
Hey James is it 76mm or 75mm piston high compression piston .it will help thanks
Arturo Garcia 75mm are stock cylinder wall sizes. If you bore it over it can be 75.5mm or 76mm but if Ur taking stock pistons out and replacing them you need 75mm
James D guy thank you and keep making video :)
Arturo Garcia thanks and no problem will do!
The oil pump isn't responsible for higher oil pressure , the pumps job is to move volume not create pressure, bearing clearances are what's responsible for oil pressure , but good video none the less
majorkin19 Thanks we have had oil pressure drop due to oil pump flow characteristics. When we did a pump shim the oil pressure would increase due to flow increase. Fluid dynamics explains how the small hole causes higher oil pressure but yea the pump itself don’t cause the oil pressure but the amount of flow it can push out does. Either way thanks for the comment!
Any idea what kinda power you'll be putting down?
corbin parvin once cam and everything is done my end goal is 200hp but it won’t put that down right away it’s gonna take a lot of tuning and adjustments but I’d be happy with 150hp for now and it don’t sound like much but in a light sedan and the d series tq curve it should do great. Hell might spray some day just because haha
James D guy ooof that’s a lofty goal man. I believe the record for a d16 is somewhere around 158 hp. Good luck man.
Stacy Pfingsten the highest yet is 195hp all motor d16 it’s not even port and polished yet it can break 200 easy with a PNP
What's the highest Horse Power you can get out of a D16Z6 without putting a Turbo on it
and still keep it Naturally Aspirated? I was hoping by changing pistons, porting, polishing, better intake manifold, better header etc. and maybe tuning etc. it could get at least 160 HP's...
160-200+
@@reifonseca5767 Holy shit!! Sounds Awesome!!
i like the intro man. Hey i was trying to remind you about the video that i was going to upload about my civic? I was wondering if you might be on later on tonight if not i can upload it tomorow morning.
Steve Martinez yea upload it and let me know when it’s done
I have a question, if I have a d16y8 and it's a 75.5 oversize and if I buy the piston rings 75.5 over size ... do I have to file them ?
Any ring should be checked
Where did you buy your parts from? eBay kit?
Dustin Ninja I bought all my parts off eBay but it wasn’t a kit. I bought them from all different sellers. Pieced it together myself
What brand for the pistons
YCP pistons. I typed in D16 High compression P29 pistons. The ones with teflon coating are the best they reduce engine noise from "piston slap" Sorry for the late reply.
use oil and flour for claying
Edward Phipps That’s a great idea!
What is these pistons part number bro?
I'm planning to use these pistons and zero gap rings in my d16y8 engine build. Maybe some H beam rods too.
I was looking for d16b5 pistons but is nothing online.
➕ I gotta keep my car California smog legal.
You find them on ebay. High compression d16 pistons. I don't know what to say about 0 gap rings and if you keep it na I would use the stock rods, because forged ones are heavy and would make the rotating assembly spin slower, thus robbing you of power
Ahhhhh you got them too took the low comp Vitara out yesterday putting in the high Compression check out my page
Checking out now! And check out my latest video its crazy and the video dont do justice at all! It needs a cam and it will be golden!@
This dude uses thread locker but doesn't use a torque wrench on something like a flywheel. That's nuts. Great video otherwise