Oustanding, love the neatness of the dressing and welding, I never figured out why the outlets were made so tiny, all it takes is a couple of leaves come autumn to block and the overspill will wreck the windows, cills in no time, I always find a long boiler flue brush is the best to clear them if you have access.
Thank you. With regards to the patination oil. You need to apply this before the end of the working day. It’s important to oil underneath laps and free edges too.
Really enjoyed watching this video Stuart. It took me back about 35 years when I was doing my city and guilds which was the first and last time I learnt ( very basic beating and burning) lead work. You made it look incredibly easy, and the finished work was a beauty to behold 👍👍👍
Thank you for your message. I’m glad you enjoyed watching the video. I’m really enjoying showing the world what I do and I’m currently working on two more vids. So excited about that.
Lovely job m8!!! I have never had a job where i had to form the T-pren joint around the copper drip like that.very interesting. Your pole ends are dressed to perfection 😉
I would cut a patch big enough to cover the split. Shave hook the the area to weld. And then weld it up. Or if you don’t want it to be visible. You could weld over the split and shave hook it down to blend it in. But it won’t be as strong as welding a patch over the split. Hope his helps.
Sorry I know it’s been a while since the last. But I’ve been very busy working on something. But it’s almost finished. So they’ll be another vid in the not too distant future.
Looks mint 👌 making me really want to get into the welding side of lead properly.. as I've mentioned to you already I do welding aswel as roofing so think it's time to buy a torch as i really like both jobs equally so this way I get to do both together 👍
Thank you. I would recommend getting a original model o torch. There’s some cheaper copy’s on the market. I’ve had one of these and I ended up throwing it in the bin.
You are a true craftsman. Very nice work, thanks for sharing. I can’t find patination oil anywhere in the US, been looking for years. Have you ever heard of a good substitute?
@@slbleadworks There is no lead work here. The only thing it’s ever used for is chimney flashing or flashing a roof into brickwork. Can’t even buy a lead fishing sinker anymore. All I’ve ever been able to buy is 50lb sheet lead and the price swings wildly between stores, $115- $188 USD per roll 😕
Hi Chad you can use linseed oil as a substitute for pagination oil not quite as gods but it works I’ve been told Give it a go and let us know the results good luck
Data sheet says: Patination Oil is a mixture of White Spirit, Soya Alkyd Resin, silica and metallic soaps. These roofs been around before modern alkyd resins and this product. There should be historical records of what was used before.
worked out well Stewart . how did you get round the issue of returning the rubber in the t-pren around the copper drip ? did you have to heat it to make it more playable because the BLM t-pren have thicker rubber
Thank you. Yes exactly that. Time you added all the thicknesses together heating made it so much easier to bend around. Just had to make sure not to get to close to the rubber.
I always wonder how, given that lead is so easily marked, as to why at the end of the jobs no marks are visible. Can you please enlighten us. Love your work.
Thank you. Well I think it has a lot to do with how hard you dress the lead in the first place. Also make sure your dresser is always flat. And the used dressers are worn in leaving less marks on the lead too. Also the use of heat on the roll ends etc means you can be very gentle.
I used to do the carpentry work on that sort of roof. I left the UK nearly 25 years ago. I have never seen those expansion joints. When did they come out.
@@slbleadworks Makes sense me not having seen them then. They look like a good idea. The different movement rate between dissimilar products was always a problem.
When I had a lead worker with me constantly he was amazing at his work but on bay roofs and box gutters we always used geotex underneath the lead ? I know how building regs change and it was years ago when I did it last. Just curious
Geotex has now been banned Im led to believe. So grade A building paper is now used more commonly. It’s also much easier to work with and not spongy like geotex.
Great work Quick question do you always burn your backs or do you boss as well I always boss as I’m not sure on the cuts ?? Do you have a video showing this process ?
Thank you. I generally cut and weld my backs as it’s the way I’ve been taught. But if the backs on a hip I sometimes boss them. I think my most recent vid might have the way I cut the backs. I would prefer to boss them probably but it seems to take me longer. Have you any tips that could speed It up for me ?.
@@slbleadworks I think welding is probably quicker in general especially on square backs I guess it really saves time as it cuts out the process of bossing them down once they’re in position I’m not sure there is a quick way but I use a boss mate which is a really handy tool for knocking up
I used many things over the years but the best thing to use on little jobs and you might think this sounds crazy but it's the yellow glass wool insulation you would put in lofts lol try it out if you ever get the chance to. It applies it sooo freaking good 👍
@slb lead works Cheers Stuart. I've tried leaving a 15mm tag over the top of the roll from the internal 'bay' corner and pushing it down over the roll to weld but the shape never looks like what you have done I'm guessing you weld when the tag when it's at the top of the roll and boss the rest into the corner? I'm back to code 3 in the garage haha 5s got a bit too an expensive hobby 🤣
@@cba1424 The smaller the tag the easier it will fold around the roll. If it’s too big the tag will tear and it won’t fold tight to the roll. I don’t have any tag at the bottom 25mm from the roll as I find this is easier to weld. But yes you fold it around to the top of the roll and then boss the final corner In before it’s welded. Code 3 is really to thin for this. It will make it so much harder. Especially to weld and boss.
@slb lead works Thanks ever so much Stuart. Had some code 3 left over from some big soakers so just cutting that up and folding the shapes to practice save wasting new c5. Should really get myself on a course but everything is a week off work which I wouldn't mind but not doing lead all the time. Big help people like yourself sharing videos and tips
Hi. This took just over 6 days. Thats including removing the existing lead and re decking. Somebody helped with the carpentry. The rest was done by me on my own.
It could be several reasons. Most people don’t oil the underside of the lead or the laps. So the white staining still creeps through. Or it could be it’s rained or moisture in the air before the oil has had time to fully dry.
Thanks, I'm an architectural technologist and this was very useful to see how it's done. Beautiful work.
Thank you so much and thanks for watching. I really appreciate it.
another magic leadwork job stuart and good tip for lead welding work of art mate!
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Oustanding, love the neatness of the dressing and welding, I never figured out why the outlets were made so tiny, all it takes is a couple of leaves come autumn to block and the overspill will wreck the windows, cills in no time, I always find a long boiler flue brush is the best to clear them if you have access.
Thank you.
Yes I totally agree. Such a tiny outlet taking so much water
True craftsman 👌 your work is beautiful please do a a vid on when you would apply the patination oil 🙏
Thank you. With regards to the patination oil. You need to apply this before the end of the working day. It’s important to oil underneath laps and free edges too.
Stunning. Absolutely love watching your videos Stuart.
Thank you so much and I’m glad your enjoying the vids.
Thank you for watching.
Great work from a highly skilled Craftsman...
Thank you
Love to see how you weld , and appreciate the tips . Thanks
Thank you I also have lots of dedicated welding vids on the channel. Thanks for watching.
Some skill there, it looks great.
Thank you and thanks for watching
Your videos have helped me immensely, thank you 👍
No worries thank you for watching.
Really enjoyed watching this video Stuart. It took me back about 35 years when I was doing my city and guilds which was the first and last time I learnt ( very basic beating and burning) lead work. You made it look incredibly easy, and the finished work was a beauty to behold 👍👍👍
Thank you for your message. I’m glad you enjoyed watching the video. I’m really enjoying showing the world what I do and I’m currently working on two more vids. So excited about that.
@@slbleadworks i look forward to seeing them Stuart . Like I said having done it i can appreciate how difficult it is, and how easy you made it look 👍
@@lesroberts3226 thank you
lovely workmanship, and nice tips on vertical welding.
Thank you. I always do my vertical welding like this. I guess you just have to see what works best for you
Really stunning clean tidy work, so good to see it can still be done right, thanks alot for sharing
Thank you. And thank you for watching.
Brillant!! what a craftmanship, mit must be a to make.
Thank you I’m glad you enjoyed the vid and thanks for watching.
Brilliant job lad. Really enjoyed watching that. New to your channel but I've subscribed. Keep up the good work. 👌
Thank you I’m glad you enjoyed the vid. And thank you for subscribing.
Hi Stuart well your a master craftsman’s , fantastic job.
Thank you. And thanks for commenting and watching the vid
Lovely job m8!!! I have never had a job where i had to form the T-pren joint around the copper drip like that.very interesting. Your pole ends are dressed to perfection 😉
Thank you. This is the first time I’ve ever had to do it too.
Great work Stuart , you really should run classes to carry these skills on .. love to learn the welding side of things 👍🏻
Thank you.
I was offered to go to Boston before to teach a class. I was tempted. But noting more came of it.
Seriously skilled workmanship 👊👊👊👊
That looks fabulous .
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Very nice work but if you don't mind me saying the vertical burns are easier on an angle
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Nice job man is beautiful
Thank you. And thanks for watching.
Thank you. And thanks for watching.
Not many roofers can do lead like that looks perfect top job
Thank you
Great vid, really nice to see the close ups of the welding process.
Thank you.
@@slbleadworks How would you fix a small split in some old lead on a flat roof..I am trying to teach myself and its so tricky...
I would cut a patch big enough to cover the split. Shave hook the the area to weld. And then weld it up. Or if you don’t want it to be visible. You could weld over the split and shave hook it down to blend it in. But it won’t be as strong as welding a patch over the split.
Hope his helps.
@@slbleadworks Really helpful! now to give it a go on some scrap..
We have missed your video’s
Sorry I know it’s been a while since the last. But I’ve been very busy working on something. But it’s almost finished. So they’ll be another vid in the not too distant future.
Another class video as always, superb craftmanship.
Looking forward to the next one.
Thank you
Absolutely gorgeous work!
Thank you
Looks awesome 👌
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Brilliant job
Thank you
Would be nice if you could add some rough costing on this good work.
Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching.
Total skill, great work
Thank you
Amazing craftsmanship once again 👏
Thank you so much. And thank you for watching.
Looks mint 👌 making me really want to get into the welding side of lead properly.. as I've mentioned to you already I do welding aswel as roofing so think it's time to buy a torch as i really like both jobs equally so this way I get to do both together 👍
Thank you. I would recommend getting a original model o torch. There’s some cheaper copy’s on the market. I’ve had one of these and I ended up throwing it in the bin.
@@slbleadworks yeah no problem.. what oil do you use personally to coat the lead after you've finished ?
Nice work 👍
Thank you. I hope you enjoyed the vid.
Like others have said, fantastic neat job, nothing else to say, a pleasure to watch 👍 atb
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
You are a true craftsman. Very nice work, thanks for sharing. I can’t find patination oil anywhere in the US, been looking for years. Have you ever heard of a good substitute?
Thank you. Sorry I’ve never heard of anything else that could be used. Do you guys use much lead in the US ?
@@slbleadworks There is no lead work here. The only thing it’s ever used for is chimney flashing or flashing a roof into brickwork. Can’t even buy a lead fishing sinker anymore. All I’ve ever been able to buy is 50lb sheet lead and the price swings wildly between stores, $115- $188 USD per roll 😕
Hi Chad you can use linseed oil as a substitute for pagination oil not quite as gods but it works I’ve been told
Give it a go and let us know the results good luck
Data sheet says: Patination Oil is a mixture of White Spirit,
Soya Alkyd Resin, silica and metallic soaps. These roofs been around before modern alkyd resins and this product. There should be historical records of what was used before.
Very nice work, what area are you
Thank you. I usually work a 80 mile radius of Brighton.
Proper neat job there,
Thank you
worked out well Stewart . how did you get round the issue of returning the rubber in the t-pren around the copper drip ? did you have to heat it to make it more playable because the BLM t-pren have thicker rubber
Thank you. Yes exactly that. Time you added all the thicknesses together heating made it so much easier to bend around. Just had to make sure not to get to close to the rubber.
Another stunning job.
Thank you. And thanks for watching.
Amazing work mate.
Thank you! Cheers!
I always wonder how, given that lead is so easily marked, as to why at the end of the jobs no marks are visible. Can you please enlighten us.
Love your work.
Thank you.
Well I think it has a lot to do with how hard you dress the lead in the first place. Also make sure your dresser is always flat. And the used dressers are worn in leaving less marks on the lead too. Also the use of heat on the roll ends etc means you can be very gentle.
@@slbleadworks Thank you. Keep up the good work. I'm not in the trade but when I see nice lead work like yours it's always impressive.
Great work, would it have been possible to put a rainwater head on the downpipes to help with the water discharge ?
Thank you for your message.
No unfortunately not as the outlet discharges straight into a rain water pipe around the moulding detail.
Lovely work, do you always work on your own?
Thank you. Yes pretty much. I work alongside a roofer most Saturdays. It’s nice to have the company
Cracking job👍
Thank you. It was nice to do.
I used to do the carpentry work on that sort of roof. I left the UK nearly 25 years ago. I have never seen those expansion joints. When did they come out.
I’m not sure exactly but I think it’s been around for 20 years or so.
@@slbleadworks Makes sense me not having seen them then. They look like a good idea. The different movement rate between dissimilar products was always a problem.
@@davetaylor4741 They can certainly help when you haven’t got enough height for steps.
When I had a lead worker with me constantly he was amazing at his work but on bay roofs and box gutters we always used geotex underneath the lead ? I know how building regs change and it was years ago when I did it last. Just curious
Geotex has now been banned Im led to believe.
So grade A building paper is now used more commonly. It’s also much easier to work with and not spongy like geotex.
Top class work 🔥🔥🔥
Thank you
Great work
Quick question do you always burn your backs or do you boss as well
I always boss as I’m not sure on the cuts ?? Do you have a video showing this process ?
Thank you.
I generally cut and weld my backs as it’s the way I’ve been taught. But if the backs on a hip I sometimes boss them.
I think my most recent vid might have the way I cut the backs.
I would prefer to boss them probably but it seems to take me longer.
Have you any tips that could speed
It up for me ?.
@@slbleadworks I think welding is probably quicker in general especially on square backs I guess it really saves time as it cuts out the process of bossing them down once they’re in position I’m not sure there is a quick way but I use a boss mate which is a really handy tool for knocking up
Quality tradesman 👍
Thank you
Sehr schöne Arbeit.
top work there pal
Thank you. Lots more to come.
Great weld
Thankyou
Tidy work,
What do u use with pat oil??
Cloth/rag/sponge???
Thanks
Thank you.
To be honest I usually use my socks when they get holes in them 🤦🏻♂️😂
I used many things over the years but the best thing to use on little jobs and you might think this sounds crazy but it's the yellow glass wool insulation you would put in lofts lol try it out if you ever get the chance to. It applies it sooo freaking good 👍
@@IrishPikeHunter oh ok I’ll have to keep my eye out
Hi Stuart. Do you you weld your bays in position? Would you be able to share the cutting and folds of the bay back please?
Yes I do. I don’t currently have that on any of my vids. But I need to make a part 2 to my most recent vid. Maybe I’ll try and show that.
@slb lead works Cheers Stuart. I've tried leaving a 15mm tag over the top of the roll from the internal 'bay' corner and pushing it down over the roll to weld but the shape never looks like what you have done I'm guessing you weld when the tag when it's at the top of the roll and boss the rest into the corner? I'm back to code 3 in the garage haha 5s got a bit too an expensive hobby 🤣
@@cba1424 The smaller the tag the easier it will fold around the roll. If it’s too big the tag will tear and it won’t fold tight to the roll. I don’t have any tag at the bottom 25mm from the roll as I find this is easier to weld. But yes you fold it around to the top of the roll and then boss the final corner In before it’s welded.
Code 3 is really to thin for this. It will make it so much harder. Especially to weld and boss.
@slb lead works Thanks ever so much Stuart. Had some code 3 left over from some big soakers so just cutting that up and folding the shapes to practice save wasting new c5. Should really get myself on a course but everything is a week off work which I wouldn't mind but not doing lead all the time. Big help people like yourself sharing videos and tips
Lead is not allowed to work with in Holland, to bad. Because it looks so satisfying to work with!
That’s such a shame. It really is a nice product to work with.
What do you use instead of lead ?
Could you do a tutorial on how to weld upstands please
Yes I think I’m going to make another welding vid. I’ve had quite few requests for this.
Hi mate, how many hours did this take you and did you have a labourer helping you at all?
Hi. This took just over 6 days. Thats including removing the existing lead and re decking. Somebody helped with the carpentry. The rest was done by me on my own.
@@slbleadworks thanks mate was just curious. It’s top work well in 👏🏼🤝
Fantastic
Thank you
Stuart. Why does lead go white. After patination oil applying several times ?
It could be several reasons. Most people don’t oil the underside of the lead or the laps. So the white staining still creeps through. Or it could be it’s rained or moisture in the air before the oil has had time to fully dry.
@@slbleadworks is it a bad thing sturat or will it come out
@@leemcgowan7986 if it’s quite new work it should come off.
Could you do a video on welding up on a 45degree with rods please 🙏
Ok yes no worries. I’m sure I can create this soon.
Top notch.
Thank you
Is it acually lead [Pb] ?;
It is yes
Les bandes noires sont des joints de dilatations ?
Yes that’s correct.