In this video I install code 5 bays to a bay roof. I decided to boss the front and back of the rolls as I havn't done it in a while. Complete step by step guide.
Looks great. Nice easy job now for the tiler to complete. Plenty of upstand and the corner intersections already leaded and sealed. Making life easier for the next trade is all part of being a decent tradesman.
The tiler on this job is a good mate of mine. I’ve done his lead work for the last 14 years. We generally work together on Saturdays. And I look forward to it as I get some company.
Excellent workmanship as always. In a future video could you show us how you mark and cut an under cloak and over cloak for a lead flat roof butting up to a pitched roof. Cheers.
Hey, another great video! So many questions! How hot are you heating the lead when annealing it to do the rolls? Warm? Too hot to touch? Colour change? Keep up the great work!
Thank you. Yes it’s too hot to touch for sure. I usually heat just before it changes colour. If it changes colour I stop straight away as that’s just before it melts. Feel free to ask anything you want. I like the comments. And I try to answer everything.
For me it's the satisfaction of walking away knowing that my leadwork will still be there long after I've gone. Sand cast hopper heads and downpipes were my specialty. They will still be there in hundreds of years.
@@diegolopez9694 that’s something I’ve always wanted to try but never really had the chance. Can I ask, how do you make the downpipes. Do you just wrap lead around something and weld the back ?.
@@slbleadworks Sand cast the brackets/collars and bottom shoe, then depending on the specifications I'd usually double up 1.2 m lengths of code 6/8 then dress around a length of timber weld up the back seam and file it back smooth. Then burn on the brackets and shoes. So you end up with lengths of just over 1.2 that can either interlock or meet a hopper or swan neck
Hopper heads can be made in the same way if you don't have the set up for casting. Just use more layers and file back the corners so you can't see the welds. Just need a chippy friend to knock up a few patterns to boss around.
Great work. A real craft. Wonderful to see so much pride in you work. I have some bay windows on a property I’m currently in the process of buying. The original lead is way past it and is leaking. Coincidentally, my friends lead bay roof is also leaking. He’s been recommended fibreglass and felt quotes as the roofers he’s had round ‘don’t do lead’ and have suggested replacing. In comparison to those alternatives. How much would a lead bay window replacement be? And how would the life expectancy of all three compare? Personally I’d love to replace with lead
Thank you and thanks for watching. If you or your friend are in my catchment area I’d be happy to give you a price for lead. In the long run the lead always works out cheaper. As once it’s done it should last in excess of 100 years. Nothing else will. I’m not sure of the lifespan of the alternatives but I think I’d be about right saying 30 years for felt and probably less for fibreglass. I personally would opt for fibreglass as my least favourite alternative. I only ever hear bad things about it. But maybe that’s more to do with the installation.
Thank you I’m glad you’re enjoying the vids. My back has been so much better untill yesterday actually. Had a little set back but hopefully I’ll recover quicker. I’m not really sure what to suggest as I’ve never tried to remove any brown oxidation. Have you tried patination oil ?. Or there’s a product called lead restorer that might be able to remove it. Failing that you could always try some wire wool. Thanks for watching.
On every job do you supply the lead ? And if so which one . BLM,Calder or another ? I understand if you can't say as it looks like your sponsored by them . Localy suppliers have tried pushing Midland lead ( looks like tiger skin and eco lead ) both at code 4 feel like code 3 ...
Hi to be honest I rarely supply the lead and I’m definitely not sponsored by them. But I wish I was. BLM isn’t too bad but towards the last 1.5m of the roll you get horrible lines that you can’t get out. Enviro lead Just seems thinner than usual at the moment too. I used some code 5 recently. And honestly I would have thought it was code 4. I’d probably go for Calder out of all of those. But I haven’t used it for a while so I don’t know what it’s like these days.
@@slbleadworks I have been told that enviro lead is made from used car batteries and has more tin content than tin itself !! Midland lead is thin as fu#k ! I bought lead from struckta which I hope you never have to use .. never has a roll off lead been so warped ! Could not use it for cover flashing as it was like a banana..
Clearly a thing of beauty but as a diyer with a love of craftsmanship I would have liked to see more of the process instead of cutting to a section to show the finished piece. I would have loved to see you welding with a little “how to” explanation. Really well done though.
Thank you. I try to show as much as I can but I have to also be mindful of the length of the video. As for the welding I’ve have lots of videos dedicated to that so don’t tend to go into too much detail of what I’m doing. And thank you for watching.
@@slbleadworks thanks very much. I just happened upon this video so will seek out your welding ones. I’ve done a bit of step flashing but at some point will need to flash a couple of chimneys (aprons) so this stuff is great. Very best wishes.
Just about retired now but seeing your videos really makes me wish I had done this for a while. Fascinating and relaxing at the same time. Great results that you produce must make you proud. Tell me, do you always put building paper between the lead and plywood and why? Is it to help expansion movement?
Thank you yes I find it mostly relaxing too. It just depends on the job as sometimes there’s pressure as the scaffold is booked to come down. Or other trades are waiting to get on. Yes always put building paper down when doing capping, flat roofs or dormer cheeks. Or cladding of any kind. The building paper protects the underside of the lead from alkalis in concrete,stone and screed. It also helps reduce corrosive attack when laying onto plywood or oak. Is does also help with movement yes.
@@slbleadworks Thanks for the reply. When I built my house I put a complete lead layer across my chimney at roof pitch level and just had great fun with it, the soakers and the stepped flashings. So satisfying! Didn’t wear gloves though …… will I die? 😀
@@slbleadworks Thanks just checking I hadn't missed anything. •Make existing timber deck sound •New building paper laid upon timber deck •New Timber Rolls fixed in position •New Code 5 Lead •New Code 4 lead to abutment walls and sealed with a purpose lead sealant
How does water not get under those seams and run into the ends of where you sliced the lead at the end of the round wood if you don't weld those seams?
Excellent workmanship interesting to see how it is made up plus finished job. Very Latour intensive and skillful of course weather helps to make the job a little easier well done wonder if that is the "Hove Actually " area.
Such a skill you have there. If I was half as good as you I’d be a happy man. Quality craftsmanship, love your videos 👍🏻
Thank you so much and thanks for watching.
I really appreciate it.
Looks great. Nice easy job now for the tiler to complete. Plenty of upstand and the corner intersections already leaded and sealed. Making life easier for the next trade is all part of being a decent tradesman.
The tiler on this job is a good mate of mine. I’ve done his lead work for the last 14 years. We generally work together on Saturdays. And I look forward to it as I get some company.
love these videos, I've been doing lead on bird huts and its just so nice to work with and this is such a gift to share.
Thank you I’m glad your enjoying the vids. Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment.
Excellent workmanship as always. In a future video could you show us how you mark and cut an under cloak and over cloak for a lead flat roof butting up to a pitched roof. Cheers.
Thank you.
Yes no worries next time I come across this I’ll make it happen.
Beautiful job, a lot of skill went in to that but you made it look easy.
Thank you so much and thanks for watching.
Don't want to sound picky but we were taught to mark any bend lines we a small offcut of lead, great work keep the videos coming
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Why Require in above bay window flat roof why it not possible to just roll lead roll above flat roof
Sorry I’m a little confused by your question. But thanks for watching.
I am sorry for not putting right question
Why have to use Lead Roofing Wood Core Roll in flat roof
@@mehuksuria373 it’s used as an expansion joint.
Dose it necessary to use in flat roof, above bay window flat roof 1.20 cm length 2.50 cm wide flat roof
Thank you for quick response
"CODE 5" I would like to read what its specs call out.
Is there a web site.
I am curious.
Are you after the specs of code 5 ?. If so if you Google this it will give you all the information you need.
Have you got a video where you show lead welding?
Yes so many dedicated welding vids on my channel
Hey, another great video! So many questions! How hot are you heating the lead when annealing it to do the rolls? Warm? Too hot to touch? Colour change? Keep up the great work!
Thank you.
Yes it’s too hot to touch for sure. I usually heat just before it changes colour. If it changes colour I stop straight away as that’s just before it melts.
Feel free to ask anything you want. I like the comments. And I try to answer everything.
Nice to see the trade continuing.
Ive been retired from leadwork for almost 10 years. On occasion i miss it.
Thanks for watching. What do you miss the most ?
For me it's the satisfaction of walking away knowing that my leadwork will still be there long after I've gone.
Sand cast hopper heads and downpipes were my specialty. They will still be there in hundreds of years.
@@diegolopez9694 that’s something I’ve always wanted to try but never really had the chance.
Can I ask, how do you make the downpipes.
Do you just wrap lead around something and weld the back ?.
@@slbleadworks
Sand cast the brackets/collars and bottom shoe, then depending on the specifications I'd usually double up 1.2 m lengths of code 6/8 then dress around a length of timber weld up the back seam and file it back smooth. Then burn on the brackets and shoes.
So you end up with lengths of just over 1.2 that can either interlock or meet a hopper or swan neck
Hopper heads can be made in the same way if you don't have the set up for casting. Just use more layers and file back the corners so you can't see the welds.
Just need a chippy friend to knock up a few patterns to boss around.
Great work. A real craft. Wonderful to see so much pride in you work. I have some bay windows on a property I’m currently in the process of buying. The original lead is way past it and is leaking. Coincidentally, my friends lead bay roof is also leaking. He’s been recommended fibreglass and felt quotes as the roofers he’s had round ‘don’t do lead’ and have suggested replacing. In comparison to those alternatives. How much would a lead bay window replacement be? And how would the life expectancy of all three compare? Personally I’d love to replace with lead
Thank you and thanks for watching. If you or your friend are in my catchment area I’d be happy to give you a price for lead.
In the long run the lead always works out cheaper. As once it’s done it should last in excess of 100 years. Nothing else will. I’m not sure of the lifespan of the alternatives but I think I’d be about right saying 30 years for felt and probably less for fibreglass. I personally would opt for fibreglass as my least favourite alternative. I only ever hear bad things about it. But maybe that’s more to do with the installation.
I’m in Birmingham so unfortunately not local to you. If you know anyone my way be sure to let me know. Thanks for the reply
@@mattjames1639 I might consider staying up there
Good to know! House purchase should have finalised May/June time so I ll be in contact nearer the time 👍🏻
Thanks for the video. Is there a particular reason you use that building paper instead of something like vapour permeable felt? Thanks
Yes you can’t use breather or vapour permeable felt under lead as it sweats. Lead manufacturers recommend grade A building paper. Thanks for watching.
@@slbleadworks Thank you appreciate u taking the time to reply. So would the same apply if u were doing something like a box gutter too? - Thanks
Nice work 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching
Love your videos hope the back is ok now!! ? Iv got brown oxidation forming on my lead bay widow!! What will remove this ? Any ideas 😃
Thank you I’m glad you’re enjoying the vids.
My back has been so much better untill yesterday actually. Had a little set back but hopefully I’ll recover quicker.
I’m not really sure what to suggest as I’ve never tried to remove any brown oxidation.
Have you tried patination oil ?.
Or there’s a product called lead restorer that might be able to remove it. Failing that you could always try some wire wool.
Thanks for watching.
Yes your skills are awesome!! Great content!! Yes I bought some wire wool! 👍
@@Rckhlld1 thank you. Please let me know how you get on with it. And what works best.
Hi Stuart hows your back ?
Hi.
It’s reached a point where I’m not in lots of pain. But I’ve got a constant dull ache at the bottom of my back. It’s been like this a few weeks.
Good work, its a shame the roof tiler is not to the same standard. The felt is under your roof!!
Thankyou and thanks for watching.
You are the boss. Fair f**KS. Looked awesome, never rushed and loads of experience 👍
Thankyou so much and thanks for watching.
Hi where are you based ? I have bay window roof leaking from inside ? Any advise , are you available to fixed ?
I’m in Brighton. East Sussex
On every job do you supply the lead ? And if so which one . BLM,Calder or another ? I understand if you can't say as it looks like your sponsored by them . Localy suppliers have tried pushing Midland lead ( looks like tiger skin and eco lead ) both at code 4 feel like code 3 ...
Hi to be honest I rarely supply the lead and I’m definitely not sponsored by them. But I wish I was.
BLM isn’t too bad but towards the last 1.5m of the roll you get horrible lines that you can’t get out. Enviro lead Just seems thinner than usual at the moment too. I used some code 5 recently. And honestly I would have thought it was code 4.
I’d probably go for Calder out of all of those. But I haven’t used it for a while so I don’t know what it’s like these days.
@@slbleadworks I have been told that enviro lead is made from used car batteries and has more tin content than tin itself !! Midland lead is thin as fu#k ! I bought lead from struckta which I hope you never have to use .. never has a roll off lead been so warped ! Could not use it for cover flashing as it was like a banana..
Good work, to be spot on as a proper roofer i always use tilting fillet and take lead over creating kick for the tiles
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Clearly a thing of beauty but as a diyer with a love of craftsmanship I would have liked to see more of the process instead of cutting to a section to show the finished piece. I would have loved to see you welding with a little “how to” explanation. Really well done though.
Thank you. I try to show as much as I can but I have to also be mindful of the length of the video. As for the welding I’ve have lots of videos dedicated to that so don’t tend to go into too much detail of what I’m doing.
And thank you for watching.
@@slbleadworks thanks very much. I just happened upon this video so will seek out your welding ones. I’ve done a bit of step flashing but at some point will need to flash a couple of chimneys (aprons) so this stuff is great. Very best wishes.
Brilliant craftsman, love watching your work. Amazing mate
Thank you and thanks for watching.
What a pro, very enjoyable to watch, keep them coming.
Thank you and thanks for watching. I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Just about retired now but seeing your videos really makes me wish I had done this for a while. Fascinating and relaxing at the same time. Great results that you produce must make you proud. Tell me, do you always put building paper between the lead and plywood and why? Is it to help expansion movement?
Thank you yes I find it mostly relaxing too. It just depends on the job as sometimes there’s pressure as the scaffold is booked to come down. Or other trades are waiting to get on.
Yes always put building paper down when doing capping, flat roofs or dormer cheeks. Or cladding of any kind.
The building paper protects the underside of the lead from alkalis in concrete,stone and screed.
It also helps reduce corrosive attack when laying onto plywood or oak. Is does also help with movement yes.
@@slbleadworks Thanks for the reply. When I built my house I put a complete lead layer across my chimney at roof pitch level and just had great fun with it, the soakers and the stepped flashings. So satisfying! Didn’t wear gloves though …… will I die? 😀
@@AaaaandAction no I think you’ll fight another day lol. I’ve worked with lead for 27 years and my lead levels are in the safe zone.
Looks like you were made for the difficult ones. Great work 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Nice to see a setting stick being used instead of a wedging tool,
Yes I see a lot of people using a sharp dresser 🤦🏻♂️
Can you recommend any books on the rudimental principles?
www.oldtools.co.uk/products/the-lead-sheet-manual-vol-1-2-3
I found this but it’s out of stock.
But this will me a really good guide.
Are those copper roofing nails?
Yes they are 25mm copper ring shanked nails
Do you recommend a copper drip edge for bay roofs of all sizes?
I think it’s a much nicer finish. So yes 100%
@@slbleadworks Thanks just checking I hadn't missed anything.
•Make existing timber deck sound
•New building paper laid upon timber deck
•New Timber Rolls fixed in position
•New Code 5 Lead
•New Code 4 lead to abutment walls and sealed with a purpose lead sealant
@@FunnyVideos-jtm and if it’s a warm roof it needs to be vented.
How far over the roof battens each side have you gone with the lead,plus do you welt at the end in case water goes along the lead?
From memory I think I did this one around 300mm. That’s plenty and theres no need to welt the ends as water will never travel that far sideways.
Badass brother….this is the first time I’ve seen this done….been in construction for 20 years and love the craftsmanship
Thank you and thanks for watching.
I'm new subscribers
Thank you so much for subscribing I hope you like the vids.
Great work man.
Thank you and thanks for watching
Another top job 👍👍
Thank you.
Beautiful job
Thank you
How does water not get under those seams and run into the ends of where you sliced the lead at the end of the round wood if you don't weld those seams?
Water runs along the under cloak wood roll and out.
👌Top notch💯
Thank you
Super job
Thank you and thanks for watching.
🤘😎🤘
Thank you
👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you
Is there a tilt going in for the tiles going on after?
Yes that’s correct. Thanks for watching.
My first thought was exactly that.
Прикольно.
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Excellent workmanship interesting to see how it is made up plus finished job. Very Latour intensive and skillful of course weather helps to make the job a little easier well done wonder if that is the "Hove Actually " area.
This job definitely took longer as I bossed all the backs of the rolls too.
Yes this was in Hove. Nice and close for me. I don’t get many of these.