Great work on the engine, looks great! Instead of going through cans of brake cleaner I buy it in 5 L cans and have a refillable spray can that I load up with compressed air.
@@MrSick-nm2sp wo hast das machen lassen und wieviel gezahlt?. Auch die zylinder gepulvert? Ich hab ne Yamaha SR500 und bin kurz vorm strahlen und lacken/pulvern
I could have done with this video about 15 years ago.! I've almost got PTSD thinking back to my old R80 café racer project. In the end, I put the bike back together and flogged it as I wasn't happy with the finish. I had the white powder come up afterwards. Its aluminium oxide( essentially aluminum rust) the raw Ali needs a barrier over it otherwise it reacts with the air very quickly. I guess the break cleaner is giving you that somehow.
First off, This was a well made video! Got right to the point and great detail. However, I have to tell you: Those metal brushes are killing your project! @7:21 You zoom in to show the crystalyn / powdery deposits that formed after the prior cleaning. I seriously doubt that was residue from the aluminum cleaning solution. Much more likely it is evidence of dissimilar metal corrosion caused by the brass and stainless steel brushes attacking the softer cast aluminum. Aluminum is easily attacked by microscopic particles of harder metal brushes left behind in the pores of the cast aluminum. This is why it showed up after you returned from your honeymoon! In a word, TIME. In the aviation world, (45 years as a Aircraft mechanic here.) it is forbidden to use metallic brushes to clean aluminum for this very reason. The use of the scotchbrite, nonmetallic scrapers and nonmetallic brushes, is in all honesty the way to clean aluminum by abrasion. Loose the metal brushes and switch to plastic, nylon or even bristle! I would like to see how this engine looks a month or two from now. If you notice the aluminum "turning" in the near future; attack it with scotchbrite to dislodge the other metals that are attacking the aluminum. Wishing you the best luck! Subscription EARNED!
Eigentlich hätte der motor es verdient zerlegt und gestrahlt zu werden, das bike ist so aufwändig und gut bisher, wieso hier sparen? Denke neue Lager, dichtungen und ventile kontrollieren wär schon gut?
@@dathanni3437 so tief bin ich in BMW‘s nich drinn. Aber klar wenns da upgrade/Tuning Sachen gibt wärs ne gute idee wenn der motor dann eh schon offen ist
Great work on the engine, looks great! Instead of going through cans of brake cleaner I buy it in 5 L cans and have a refillable spray can that I load up with compressed air.
Was eine Arbeit. Ich hab den Motor komplett zerlegt und strahlen sowie pulvern lassen…
Respekt für die Ausdauer beim putzen!
@@MrSick-nm2sp wo hast das machen lassen und wieviel gezahlt?. Auch die zylinder gepulvert? Ich hab ne Yamaha SR500 und bin kurz vorm strahlen und lacken/pulvern
Das hat die Firma SGS Sandstrahlgesellschaft Stuttgart gemacht…
nice video mate.
You can also try Star Bright aluminium cleaner. It works like magic on engines
WD40 and brass brush on the Dremel. Fast and comes out better than new.
Looks very nice 🤩 did you test using acetone instead of brake cleaner on aluminum?
Nice job 👍👍👍
I could have done with this video about 15 years ago.! I've almost got PTSD thinking back to my old R80 café racer project. In the end, I put the bike back together and flogged it as I wasn't happy with the finish. I had the white powder come up afterwards. Its aluminium oxide( essentially aluminum rust) the raw Ali needs a barrier over it otherwise it reacts with the air very quickly. I guess the break cleaner is giving you that somehow.
A lot of the dark spots are not dirt but aluminum oxide. Very hard, like sapphire, nice work on the engine
Wow!🤩
I used oven cleaner on my engine, be careful as it is caustic so don't leave it on for too long, and then hose it off.
You can find the Green Pads for the dremel, I have Not Cleaned the whole Engine yet, but the tiny spots Look good to me
First off, This was a well made video! Got right to the point and great detail. However, I have to tell you: Those metal brushes are killing your project! @7:21 You zoom in to show the crystalyn / powdery deposits that formed after the prior cleaning. I seriously doubt that was residue from the aluminum cleaning solution. Much more likely it is evidence of dissimilar metal corrosion caused by the brass and stainless steel brushes attacking the softer cast aluminum. Aluminum is easily attacked by microscopic particles of harder metal brushes left behind in the pores of the cast aluminum. This is why it showed up after you returned from your honeymoon! In a word, TIME. In the aviation world, (45 years as a Aircraft mechanic here.) it is forbidden to use metallic brushes to clean aluminum for this very reason. The use of the scotchbrite, nonmetallic scrapers and nonmetallic brushes, is in all honesty the way to clean aluminum by abrasion. Loose the metal brushes and switch to plastic, nylon or even bristle! I would like to see how this engine looks a month or two from now. If you notice the aluminum "turning" in the near future; attack it with scotchbrite to dislodge the other metals that are attacking the aluminum. Wishing you the best luck! Subscription EARNED!
Eigentlich hätte der motor es verdient zerlegt und gestrahlt zu werden, das bike ist so aufwändig und gut bisher, wieso hier sparen? Denke neue Lager, dichtungen und ventile kontrollieren wär schon gut?
Ich würde gleich auf das Siebenrock BigBore Kit umbauen. Dazu der lange 5. Gang und ein paar neue Lager.
@@dathanni3437 so tief bin ich in BMW‘s nich drinn. Aber klar wenns da upgrade/Tuning Sachen gibt wärs ne gute idee wenn der motor dann eh schon offen ist