This video is awesome and exactly what I needed. I have a 81 Yamaha xj750 I'm putting a moto unit blue on. My question is what about the ignition coils and the voltage regulator/stator. Is that all a separate thing? Maybe another video? 👀🤘🤣
@@MotoWrenchers hey thank you! I've got another CB I'm putting together, hoping to have it done by the end of the winter. Looking forward to more videos from you, your content is very good!
@@MotoWrenchers I read up on what other people were using and from there I kind of guessed. I think I went way thicker than I would need to for some of the stuff. Not a big problem, but always nice to have as thin wiring harness as possible!
When it come to fuses, they should protect the cable in case of a short or overheating, so the fuse should always be as close to your battery terminal as possible. In critical installs like marine applications, we often chose a battery terminal with the fuse holder built into it. This is the best option. You should NOT put the fuse on the M.unit end of the cable.
Hey man, Thanks for the insights! I appreciate that. Regarding the fuse on the M.Unit, Motogadget specifies that there needs to be an inline fuse between the battery and the BAT terminal of the M.Unit. There is a drawing on page 22 of the manual, in case you want to check it out. Have a great day, my friend!
Moin Moin, tolles Video 😊🎉 und danke dafür . Ich will auch auf MUnit umrüsten, das an meiner Harley. In der Beschreibung des MUnit steht geschrieben, es habe ein integriertes Starterrelais. Kann ich also das Originale entfernen? LG
Moin! Danke dir! Ja also Anlasserrelais müsstest du weglassen können. Die Relais Funktion übernimmt die Munit für alles. Bei mir laufen die zwei Kabel von Start Output direkt zum Anlassersolenoid. Viel Erfolg beim verkabeln. Falls du Fragen hast schreib gerne. Vielleicht kann ich ja helfen. LG Joshua
@MotoWrenchers danke für die schnelle Rückantwort 😄 Und mal so nebenbei, dein Englisch ist auf jeden Fall richtig gut. Ich kam nur ins Grübeln, da in der Beschreibung geschrieben steht, das MUnit übernehme die Funktion des Starterrelais bei Vorhandensein von Magnetschaltern. Ich denke, das ist doch fast bei jedem Motorrad der Fall, wenn ich mich nicht irre, oder? Hast du zufälligerweise auch ein Vodeo parat für die Verkabelung des Ladesystems? Das ist der Stromkreis, der mich bislang davon abgehalten hat, mein Motorrad selber zu verkabeln, weil dortige Verkabelungsfehler schwerwiegende Folgen haben können. Mit Gleichrichter und Lichtmaschine. Abo ist aber definitiv raus 👍
Klar, gerne 👍 Ich verstehe gut, dass das am Anfang etwas überfordernd ist. Ging mir genau so. Behältst du denn das originale Ladesystem? Falls ja, würde ich den originalen Schaltplan benutzen. Dann kann eigentlich nichts schief laufen. Falls du upgradest, so wie ich das gemacht habe, dann kann es helfen das alles erst mal auf‘m Tisch zusammen zu stecken und zu verstehen. Bevor du anfängst ist es auf jeden Fall eine sehr gute Idee, erst mal alle Teile zu finden und zu verstehen welches Kabel welches ist. Ich hatte auf jeden Fall mal ein Video gefunden, das erklärt wie die einzelnen Teile funktionieren aber nicht wie man sie verkabelt. Würde dir das helfen? Ansonsten habe ich die neue VAPE Anlage im „First Start“ Video verkabelt. Wo hakt es denn grundsätzlich? Ist es das theoretische Verständnis, wie die Teile zusammen gehören oder wie du das praktisch umsetzt? Ich glaube, dann wüsste ich besser womit ich dir vielleicht weiterhelfen kann 💪
@@MotoWrenchers moin, danke für die Hilfsbereitschaft. Ja das Video wäre tatsächlich nicht verkehrt, obwohl grundlegende Kenntnisse vorhanden sind. Die Verkabelung aller Schalter und die der dazugehörige Verbraucher ist ja eigentlich selbsterklärend. Aber halt wenn es beispielsweise an die Lichtmaschine geht... Klemme ich diese an den Scheinwerfer? Habe gelesen, dass man die LiMa beispielsweise an den Scheinwerfer anschließt, da die Spannung des Fernlichts erst die komplette Stromzufuhr für die Lichtmaschine benötigt. Bei normalem Abblendlicht wird ja weniger Strom benötigt als beim Einschalten des Fernlichts. Das generelle Indentifizieren aller Teile könnte auch ein Problem werden, da ich keinen Schaltplan für meine Harley habe und finde. Und ja ich verwende alle originalen Geile, jedenfalls war so der Plan
@tltanslegacyxd7181 klar, sehr gerne :) Hier ist ein Video, was mir am Anfang sehr geholfen hat. Vielleicht hilft dir das ja auch: ua-cam.com/video/FSAJciIFeRM/v-deo.htmlsi=heWDDdR3rk-dRDER Die Lichtmaschine ist eigentlich nur mit dem Gleichrichter verbunden. Der nimmt den produzierten Wechselstrom und wandelt den in Gleichstrom um, sodass die Elektrizität von allen anderen Teilen am Bike genutzt werden kann. Außerdem passt der Gleichrichter auf, dass die Energie nur in einer bestimmten Range an die Batterie abgegeben wird. Ich bin mir nicht mehr ganz sicher aber ich glaube ich habe das in diesem Video noch etwas genauer erklärt: ua-cam.com/video/tgbXfVIdizc/v-deo.htmlsi=cRYC4cRADBwROH8- Bei mir wir an der Lichtmaschine auch noch der Zündzeitpunkt abgenommen, dadurch habe ich noch Kabel die zur Zündung gehen aber das ist nicht die primäre Funktion. Das Fernlicht und alles andere, wie Blinker etc. läuft alles direkt über die Output Seite der Munit. Ich hoffe das hilft. Hast du das Werkstatthandbuch für deine Harley. Da müsste der Schaltplan drin sein. Wenn du den finden könntest würde das bestimmt sehr helfen. Vielleicht auch über ne Harleywerkstatt?
Hi Natalio, unfortunately I can't help you with that since the R80 doesn't have a clutch switch. But I'm sure that Motogadget can help you with that question, if you send them an email. They are very helpful.
Just a quick comment, the connectors are designed to be used with stranded wires, not pins. If you use round pins the contact area is reduced and if a high current load is being supplied the contact might over heat.
Hi Richard, if I remember correctly the munit blue came with a bunch of ferrules in different sizes (all relatively small though). I thought those were supposed to go on to the wire ends. Would you recommend to take the pins off of the output side?
@@MotoWrenchers The breakout box that comes with the Motoscope pro has ferrules for the wires as it uses screw terminals. I have fitted 2 MoUnits recently and they didn't come with ferrules. The MoUnit uses wago style connectors which are designed for stripped wire. I have only used ferrules on the older M-unit 2. One other tip is to check the rating on each pin of the Deutsch connectors. DTP 7.5A DT13A and DTP 25A.
Hi Joshua, I am using a mo gadget blue with a m button . I am looking to bypass the starter circuit as my starter needs a 70amp supply which I believe is to high for the m unit . Can give me any advice. Regards Martin.
Maybe I’m understanding you, but the mUnit blue manual states that the starter circuit would go to the starter solenoid (which is essentially a high current relay) instead of the starter itself. For custom projects I like to use a Yamaha starter solenoid as it’s compact and easy to connect. Has a built in blade fuse as well as a spare.
Hi Martin, Sorry for the late reply. Let me try to help you. The two wires from the start output of the m.unit have to go to the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid (which is basically just a relay) then closes the circuit that provides the power to the starter motor. This connection needs a much bigger wire that comes right from the battery. On the BMW the starter solenoid is directly mounted to the starter motor but that does not always have to be the case. - This video might help you to understand how the starter solenoid works: ua-cam.com/video/P0vhRdAyE2Q/v-deo.html (from min 11:00) - In this one you can check how I connected the two wires coming from the start output of the m.unit to the starter solenoid: ua-cam.com/video/54pXhEeHDV8/v-deo.html - And at the end of this one you can see the big wire that provides power to the starter motor (through the starter solenoid) right to the battery: ua-cam.com/video/BCh8u9Rxm-E/v-deo.html I hope that helps. If you have more questions, let me know.
Any chance I can e mail you Im fitting an m unit blue on my cb750 and have parts working and other parts not, could do to communicate with someone with a lot more knowledge than me.?
I’m confused a bit on the starter motor wiring you talk about here. The mUnit can’t power the starter directly. It can only supply power to the solenoid. It works on your bike because the R80 starter has a built in starter solenoid. Most bikes, at least vintage ones, don’t have a built in starter so the mUnit needs to be wired to the solenoid. Then the battery will be wired to the starter via the solenoid. I just don’t want people to think the mUnit can supply enough current to power the starter directly.
Yeah, you're absolutely right. I did not communicate that clearly. Thanks for pointing it out! That's exactly how it works. Hope it helps everyone out.
Each MoUnit output has a maximum capacity of 10 amps. For BMW and Harleys use both START outputs to engage the starter solenoid as they take more current.
In a previous video you mentioned you used a welding cable that connects to the battery, does that connect from the positive battery side straight to the m-unit battery side?
@fjm5341 the 16mm2 welding wire runs from the battery to the starter solenoid and a separate 6mm2 one runs from the battery to the munit BAT terminal. I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions 👌
I really wish I had this last year when I was building my R100. Also for AUX1, I used them for my Hella foglights which are fantastic. Do you reckon AUX2 can be used the same?
Hi Kevin! Style did you go for with your R100? Hella fog lights (I guess mounted onto the crash bars?) must be amazing! You could also power them via Aux2. The only thing I noticed is that the rear lights wich I power through Aux1 are synchronised with the headlight. I’m not sure if that’s something you can setup in the settings for Aux2 as well. Still need to check all the settings.
@@MotoWrenchers the Aux 2 output can be set in multiple ways A) Active with ignition on B) Active after engine start C) ON / OFF with pushbutton connected to AUX2 input (no speedsensor possible) D) ON / OFF with switch connected to AUX2 input (no speedsensor possible) E) Active with ignition on / deactive 120s after ignition off F) Day Running Lights (active when Low Beam / High Beam deactive) this setting will toggle menu Low Beam to option Manualm
Thanks a lot. That’s great to know. I’m starting the rebuild next week and then I’ll check out the Munit configuration options once the bike is back up and running. Really appreciate your help!
Thank you, I appreciate that. I don’t know if they have this information only on their German page but at the bottom they have a link to ‚Impressum‘ where you can find their email address (info@motogadget.de). I hope they can help you 👌
@@MotoWrenchers Thats great. Thank You. Thats very helpful. Im about to wire my virago. Got stuck on the neutral sensor. I can connect the side stand switch but how the M unit will know if the bike is in neautral, right?
Yeah, I had a few people commenting about that. Would you mind letting me know, when they got back to you, how it’s done? How’s the wiring going apart from that?
@@MotoWrenchers Oh. Im just starting. Also I work on a Virago so Ive changed the starter setup to the 2 gen Virago with a starter solenoid so..long story short Im figuring out how to make all that work with the M unit. Just got all the bits now and tearing through the old harness to see what I still need. I think Im going to start today and will propably have a list of questions so Ill email them with one long headache email🤣😬
@_MotoMikey_ hahaha sounds like a plan 👌 If you have any more general questions feel free to ask. Happy to help if I can :) Good luck and take your time!
This video is awesome and exactly what I needed. I have a 81 Yamaha xj750 I'm putting a moto unit blue on. My question is what about the ignition coils and the voltage regulator/stator. Is that all a separate thing? Maybe another video? 👀🤘🤣
Thanks a lot, clear steps! I Love motogadget!
Now that's what I call a step-by-step guide! 👏🏻
Since I was so overwhelmed in the beginning, I tried to make it a little bit easier to understand. I hope it helps anyone who’s new to wiring :)
Best descriptions out there. Clear, through, perfect, thank you for sharing!!
Dude, thank you so much for your comment! That means the world to me 🙏
Excellent description ..you really explained it well down to the size cable you use and connectors. Well done !!
Thanks mate!
amazing video...I'm wiring up my CB350 this winter and this will help so much! 🙌
Hi, happy to hear brother! Your bike sounds amazing by the way. Is it the golden one you're working on or a new CB350?
@@MotoWrenchers hey thank you! I've got another CB I'm putting together, hoping to have it done by the end of the winter. Looking forward to more videos from you, your content is very good!
Great video. Thanks man
Thanks mate!
Great explanation and interesting to see how you have routed your wires and what gauges you are using!
Thanks buddy! Gonna make a video about calculating the right wire sizes.
@@MotoWrenchers That's a video I'm really looking forward to!
@HeavyMetalParkingSpot how did you choose the wire sizes on the savage?
@@MotoWrenchers I read up on what other people were using and from there I kind of guessed. I think I went way thicker than I would need to for some of the stuff. Not a big problem, but always nice to have as thin wiring harness as possible!
great video, explanaition is perfect! thanks
Thank you so much for your feedback! 🙏💪
Great video thank you for making it 👌
Thanks buddy, I appreciate it. I hope it helps :)
When it come to fuses, they should protect the cable in case of a short or overheating, so the fuse should always be as close to your battery terminal as possible. In critical installs like marine applications, we often chose a battery terminal with the fuse holder built into it. This is the best option. You should NOT put the fuse on the M.unit end of the cable.
Hey man, Thanks for the insights! I appreciate that. Regarding the fuse on the M.Unit, Motogadget specifies that there needs to be an inline fuse between the battery and the BAT terminal of the M.Unit. There is a drawing on page 22 of the manual, in case you want to check it out. Have a great day, my friend!
Thank you!!
You're welcome 😎
Moin Moin, tolles Video 😊🎉 und danke dafür .
Ich will auch auf MUnit umrüsten, das an meiner Harley.
In der Beschreibung des MUnit steht geschrieben, es habe ein integriertes Starterrelais.
Kann ich also das Originale entfernen?
LG
Moin! Danke dir!
Ja also Anlasserrelais müsstest du weglassen können. Die Relais Funktion übernimmt die Munit für alles. Bei mir laufen die zwei Kabel von Start Output direkt zum Anlassersolenoid.
Viel Erfolg beim verkabeln. Falls du Fragen hast schreib gerne. Vielleicht kann ich ja helfen.
LG Joshua
@MotoWrenchers danke für die schnelle Rückantwort 😄
Und mal so nebenbei, dein Englisch ist auf jeden Fall richtig gut.
Ich kam nur ins Grübeln, da in der Beschreibung geschrieben steht, das MUnit übernehme die Funktion des Starterrelais bei Vorhandensein von Magnetschaltern. Ich denke, das ist doch fast bei jedem Motorrad der Fall, wenn ich mich nicht irre, oder?
Hast du zufälligerweise auch ein Vodeo parat für die Verkabelung des Ladesystems? Das ist der Stromkreis, der mich bislang davon abgehalten hat, mein Motorrad selber zu verkabeln, weil dortige Verkabelungsfehler schwerwiegende Folgen haben können.
Mit Gleichrichter und Lichtmaschine.
Abo ist aber definitiv raus 👍
Klar, gerne 👍
Ich verstehe gut, dass das am Anfang etwas überfordernd ist. Ging mir genau so.
Behältst du denn das originale Ladesystem? Falls ja, würde ich den originalen Schaltplan benutzen. Dann kann eigentlich nichts schief laufen.
Falls du upgradest, so wie ich das gemacht habe, dann kann es helfen das alles erst mal auf‘m Tisch zusammen zu stecken und zu verstehen.
Bevor du anfängst ist es auf jeden Fall eine sehr gute Idee, erst mal alle Teile zu finden und zu verstehen welches Kabel welches ist.
Ich hatte auf jeden Fall mal ein Video gefunden, das erklärt wie die einzelnen Teile funktionieren aber nicht wie man sie verkabelt. Würde dir das helfen? Ansonsten habe ich die neue VAPE Anlage im „First Start“ Video verkabelt.
Wo hakt es denn grundsätzlich? Ist es das theoretische Verständnis, wie die Teile zusammen gehören oder wie du das praktisch umsetzt? Ich glaube, dann wüsste ich besser womit ich dir vielleicht weiterhelfen kann 💪
@@MotoWrenchers moin, danke für die Hilfsbereitschaft.
Ja das Video wäre tatsächlich nicht verkehrt, obwohl grundlegende Kenntnisse vorhanden sind.
Die Verkabelung aller Schalter und die der dazugehörige Verbraucher ist ja eigentlich selbsterklärend. Aber halt wenn es beispielsweise an die Lichtmaschine geht... Klemme ich diese an den Scheinwerfer? Habe gelesen, dass man die LiMa beispielsweise an den Scheinwerfer anschließt, da die Spannung des Fernlichts erst die komplette Stromzufuhr für die Lichtmaschine benötigt. Bei normalem Abblendlicht wird ja weniger Strom benötigt als beim Einschalten des Fernlichts.
Das generelle Indentifizieren aller Teile könnte auch ein Problem werden, da ich keinen Schaltplan für meine Harley habe und finde.
Und ja ich verwende alle originalen Geile, jedenfalls war so der Plan
@tltanslegacyxd7181 klar, sehr gerne :)
Hier ist ein Video, was mir am Anfang sehr geholfen hat. Vielleicht hilft dir das ja auch: ua-cam.com/video/FSAJciIFeRM/v-deo.htmlsi=heWDDdR3rk-dRDER
Die Lichtmaschine ist eigentlich nur mit dem Gleichrichter verbunden. Der nimmt den produzierten Wechselstrom und wandelt den in Gleichstrom um, sodass die Elektrizität von allen anderen Teilen am Bike genutzt werden kann. Außerdem passt der Gleichrichter auf, dass die Energie nur in einer bestimmten Range an die Batterie abgegeben wird. Ich bin mir nicht mehr ganz sicher aber ich glaube ich habe das in diesem Video noch etwas genauer erklärt: ua-cam.com/video/tgbXfVIdizc/v-deo.htmlsi=cRYC4cRADBwROH8-
Bei mir wir an der Lichtmaschine auch noch der Zündzeitpunkt abgenommen, dadurch habe ich noch Kabel die zur Zündung gehen aber das ist nicht die primäre Funktion.
Das Fernlicht und alles andere, wie Blinker etc. läuft alles direkt über die Output Seite der Munit.
Ich hoffe das hilft. Hast du das Werkstatthandbuch für deine Harley. Da müsste der Schaltplan drin sein. Wenn du den finden könntest würde das bestimmt sehr helfen. Vielleicht auch über ne Harleywerkstatt?
Hi. Where does the wires for the clutch switch go?
Hi Natalio, unfortunately I can't help you with that since the R80 doesn't have a clutch switch. But I'm sure that Motogadget can help you with that question, if you send them an email. They are very helpful.
Just a quick comment, the connectors are designed to be used with stranded wires, not pins. If you use round pins the contact area is reduced and if a high current load is being supplied the contact might over heat.
Hi Richard, if I remember correctly the munit blue came with a bunch of ferrules in different sizes (all relatively small though). I thought those were supposed to go on to the wire ends. Would you recommend to take the pins off of the output side?
@@MotoWrenchers The breakout box that comes with the Motoscope pro has ferrules for the wires as it uses screw terminals. I have fitted 2 MoUnits recently and they didn't come with ferrules. The MoUnit uses wago style connectors which are designed for stripped wire. I have only used ferrules on the older M-unit 2. One other tip is to check the rating on each pin of the Deutsch connectors. DTP 7.5A DT13A and DTP 25A.
@richardprowse1088 thanks a lot! I really appreciate your help 🫡🙏
Hi Joshua, I am using a mo gadget blue with a m button . I am looking to bypass the starter circuit as my starter needs a 70amp supply which I believe is to high for the m unit . Can give me any advice. Regards Martin.
Maybe I’m understanding you, but the mUnit blue manual states that the starter circuit would go to the starter solenoid (which is essentially a high current relay) instead of the starter itself. For custom projects I like to use a Yamaha starter solenoid as it’s compact and easy to connect. Has a built in blade fuse as well as a spare.
Hi Martin,
Sorry for the late reply. Let me try to help you.
The two wires from the start output of the m.unit have to go to the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid (which is basically just a relay) then closes the circuit that provides the power to the starter motor. This connection needs a much bigger wire that comes right from the battery. On the BMW the starter solenoid is directly mounted to the starter motor but that does not always have to be the case.
- This video might help you to understand how the starter solenoid works: ua-cam.com/video/P0vhRdAyE2Q/v-deo.html (from min 11:00)
- In this one you can check how I connected the two wires coming from the start output of the m.unit to the starter solenoid: ua-cam.com/video/54pXhEeHDV8/v-deo.html
- And at the end of this one you can see the big wire that provides power to the starter motor (through the starter solenoid) right to the battery: ua-cam.com/video/BCh8u9Rxm-E/v-deo.html
I hope that helps. If you have more questions, let me know.
Hi brother, thanks you your explanation! I appreciate you helping out the community.
Any chance I can e mail you Im fitting an m unit blue on my cb750 and have parts working and other parts not, could do to communicate with someone with a lot more knowledge than me.?
Yes, for sure! Shoot me an email at motowrenchers.blog@gmail.com
Let’s see if we can figure it out 👌
@@MotoWrencherssent e mail yesterday!
I’m confused a bit on the starter motor wiring you talk about here. The mUnit can’t power the starter directly. It can only supply power to the solenoid. It works on your bike because the R80 starter has a built in starter solenoid. Most bikes, at least vintage ones, don’t have a built in starter so the mUnit needs to be wired to the solenoid. Then the battery will be wired to the starter via the solenoid. I just don’t want people to think the mUnit can supply enough current to power the starter directly.
Yeah, you're absolutely right. I did not communicate that clearly. Thanks for pointing it out! That's exactly how it works. Hope it helps everyone out.
Each MoUnit output has a maximum capacity of 10 amps. For BMW and Harleys use both START outputs to engage the starter solenoid as they take more current.
In that case, it will also apply to Moto Guzzi since the starters are similar to the ones BMW uses.@@richardprowse1088
In a previous video you mentioned you used a welding cable that connects to the battery, does that connect from the positive battery side straight to the m-unit battery side?
@fjm5341 the 16mm2 welding wire runs from the battery to the starter solenoid and a separate 6mm2 one runs from the battery to the munit BAT terminal. I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions 👌
I really wish I had this last year when I was building my R100.
Also for AUX1, I used them for my Hella foglights which are fantastic.
Do you reckon AUX2 can be used the same?
Hi Kevin! Style did you go for with your R100?
Hella fog lights (I guess mounted onto the crash bars?) must be amazing!
You could also power them via Aux2. The only thing I noticed is that the rear lights wich I power through Aux1 are synchronised with the headlight. I’m not sure if that’s something you can setup in the settings for Aux2 as well. Still need to check all the settings.
@@MotoWrenchers the Aux 2 output can be set in multiple ways
A) Active with ignition on
B) Active after engine start
C) ON / OFF with pushbutton connected to AUX2 input (no speedsensor possible)
D) ON / OFF with switch connected to AUX2 input (no speedsensor possible)
E) Active with ignition on / deactive 120s after ignition off
F) Day Running Lights (active when Low Beam / High Beam deactive)
this setting will toggle menu Low Beam to option Manualm
Thanks a lot. That’s great to know. I’m starting the rebuild next week and then I’ll check out the Munit configuration options once the bike is back up and running. Really appreciate your help!
@@MotoWrenchers no problem, done lots of MoUnit installs.
Hi. Great video. ThanksHow did You contact motogadget? I can only see forms to enquire about parts etc. Thanks
Thank you, I appreciate that. I don’t know if they have this information only on their German page but at the bottom they have a link to ‚Impressum‘ where you can find their email address (info@motogadget.de). I hope they can help you 👌
@@MotoWrenchers Thats great. Thank You. Thats very helpful. Im about to wire my virago. Got stuck on the neutral sensor. I can connect the side stand switch but how the M unit will know if the bike is in neautral, right?
Yeah, I had a few people commenting about that. Would you mind letting me know, when they got back to you, how it’s done? How’s the wiring going apart from that?
@@MotoWrenchers Oh. Im just starting. Also I work on a Virago so Ive changed the starter setup to the 2 gen Virago with a starter solenoid so..long story short Im figuring out how to make all that work with the M unit. Just got all the bits now and tearing through the old harness to see what I still need. I think Im going to start today and will propably have a list of questions so Ill email them with one long headache email🤣😬
@_MotoMikey_ hahaha sounds like a plan 👌 If you have any more general questions feel free to ask. Happy to help if I can :) Good luck and take your time!