Rough Idle No CHECK ENGINE LIGHT~~~~ 15 minute FIX
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- Опубліковано 3 гру 2024
- Rough Idle No CHECK ENGINE LIGHT~~~~ EASY FIX, In this video i will show you how to repair your low idle problem quick and easy.
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I think you just helped me fix my blazer!! Thank you very much!!
Mine have a rough idle and then will shut if no matter what. I can prolong it by pumping the gas but that's all
@wood meerkat do you have a code?
I had a blazer, this is a must every six months.
😂😂
This guy is a genius, I’m a DIY person and my car ran rough at idle with no check engine lights at all. The car was also very very snappy when you would accelerate so I cleaned the throttle body and I can’t even feel the motor at idle and it’s a very easy smooth takeoff instead of a jerky take off.
Glad it helped you. Thanks for watching.
Wish I had seen the video sooner , I spent over $200.00 on sensors then did what you said. THANK YOU!!! YOU ARE THE MAN!!
At least your sensors will be good for awhile
Had months of not knowing the problem for my 2014 gmc sierra and this video was the only one that helped me fix my idling and vibrating problem! You just saved me big bucks of not taking it to a shop thank you sir and god bless you!
Glade it helped you
@@AutoRepairTips757if that throttle is a newer computer controlled one…moving that throttle body will mess the computer system up. You can spray throttle body clearner into it and that should be done with someone inside with the car cranked and giving it some gas while you are spraying it.
Thanks! I'll try this on my 2000 Mustang. I just want to say that you have a no-nonsense way of explaining things. It's refreshing.
Wow! A real mechanic! I haven't seen one of those since I moved to Florida! Great tip.
Thanks 👍
I wish I had found this sooner, I have a 2014 dodge avenger with this exact problem. Have been ripped off for so much money trying to get it fixed and end up replacing things that didn’t even have anything to do with the issue. I appreciate you sharing honest and straight forward info. I fix a lot of stuff DIY on my car, but this was one thing both my brother and I just couldn’t figure out.
Daughter has a 2011 Suburban that idles rough and tries not to start, intermittently, no codes, good fuel pressure, sounds like this is worth a shot! Good enough to get a like and sub from me, thanks for the tip!
Just tried the fix on my ‘14 cr v. Seems like it worked. Thanks
Mine just started and gonna try this. Just got the ABS working on it through your videos. Ty
If you gently move the throttle plate/butterfly, you should do no damage. Just don't let it snap back after you fully open it. Also, I would use a plastic tool to hold it open, not a metal screwdriver.
Thanks for the tip. Hope it works. Got a 98 ranger that sat for almost a year. Replaced the fuel filter, all 8 plugs, wires, and both coils. New Air filter, fresh oil change and it runs great while running but it has that rough idle with no engine light. I was thinking MAF sensor or something, but forgot about the Throttle body.
Did it work?
Did it work?
@@treishtrei turned our to be a vacuum leak. The link under the coil packs. Are your ac regulator doors working?
You have a V8 ranger? 👊
@@trip7854 those model 2.5 engines have plugs on both sides of the head. 2 per cylinder.
I like that you are using an M4 cleaning brush. That is a classy touch! I'm going to repurpose mine to use with my throttle body.
This fixed my rough idle on my 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan. Thanks!
glade it worked
That's good advice, I didn't know I could cause harm with the cleaner. Some shops are selling an intake clean for engines with direct injection, which basically sprays a mist of cleaner into the intake, while running, to loosen caked debris on the sidewall leading to the top of the intake valve. I've often wondered if flakes of hard carbon might cause a problem inside the cylinder if they are swept in with the cleaner. It seems a little safer to wait for a time when the intake is off to do that kind of intake cleaning, where one can have a little better control.
That’s a valid concern, and I agree that removing the heads, and doing a valve job is best! The hot flakes falling into the cylinder from the valve, would cause premature detonation of the fuel. By spraying the cleaner, you really don’t know how much of the carbon is removed. Mostly, it would loosen the deposits enough to cause knock more frequently leading to a host of other potential issues. It might could be beneficial if it was done as a preventative measure, but I definitely wouldn’t try it on a vehicle that is already having problems from carbon buildup. With direct injection, the best offense is a good defense. Always run higher octane gas from the start.
Very captivating narration and content . An amazing video . Gained tremendous insights .
Thanks
Great info. Probably good maintenance to do yearly.
Be careful! W some vehicles people have told me to never move the butterfly valve manually. This can somehow screw up the throttle body sensor or damage it because of the way it's built and takes readings. You may also need to perform an idle reset after any of this. Which sometimes can be a quick DIY procedure involving a gas pedal and ignition combo, followed by a bit of highway driving.
I'm taking mine to the shop lol.
As long as your car is in the off position you should not have any issues I’ve done all kinds of cars doing it this way. as long as that keys off You should not have a problem
It wont hurt it. Ive always done it with all vehicles. As long as its off. If its running have someone press the accelerator or use your finger to pull the cable
Here’s the thing, if it’s a older car and it has a manual throttle body with the cable you can pull on to increase the idle speed and a IAC tps and all that crap on it, it’s okay to handle with your hands. If it’s a newer model and has a all electric throttle body where it’s just the black computerized part on the side, and that’s it. Then do NOT stick your hand in it. Even with the battery unplugged those things can hold power, and there have been stories of them flipping out when being touched and snapping shut, which would take your fingers right off
I just remove it completely and clean
@@austindacosta6498 It has a tiny, weak little motor that moves it. It couldn't hurt a fly. It can get broken by being moved manually though.
Thanks, I have a 2011 Buick enclave. I bought it at auction in April. It took the state a month to get back with title. So now I have tag, title, insurance. And have thoroughly enjoyed prowling around the neighborhood late night to get a feel for it. So, the problem. The what appears to be usual abs light. So, I have not gotten around to figuring which wheel the error is coming from. Back to the low idle. I was coming back from an event on the highway, on exiting back to city streets. A wide gentle curve from exit to city street and at the absolute worst possible time the engine died and the pig nearly coasted into a lane of cars waiting at the light. I quickly threw it into neutral and hit the key, it started up with a brake light I had not seen before on the dash. Got back to the house off loaded some groceries and took a well deserved whizz. Started the Buick back up again. No brake light. I think I got off extremely light. Anyway, I moved that hose out the throttle body and mass air flow sensor thing up from "around to it" to first thing in the morning before it gets hot out. I think I am about due for a cheap OBDII reader to arrive tomorrow as well. Added to the mix, I had dumped a jug of crc catalytic converter cleaner on top of a quarter tank, did the obligatory 15 miles of normal driving. Filled up and went to the event, stopped at a store and got a bag of late night stuff. Hit the road and had the Buick jump up and shout boo at me. I am interested in what I will find with an OBDII code reader.
I’m curious to what you’ll find. Give us an update once your scanner comes in.
If the problems persist beyond this point try tightening the throttle cable to keep it from dropping below 1000rpm but with the AC on it will raise rpm initially then drop it as the ac motor runs.
When I put rpm high then it works normal but when it drops its sharted shaking.
Check your IAC
Bad advise don't do it folks
Awesome. Very well spoken with all teaching in order thank you..
Glad it was helpful!
I just wanted to say thank you I've got a 2004 Chevy Tahoe that battery died over the weekend so I replaced it still was acting rough so replaced alternator still stalling only while driving so I did what you said replaced the air filter and cleaned my electronic throttle body with old toothbrush and clean rag cleaned it twice it's better than before😊😊😊😊😊 ty so much it idles at 500-600rpm smooth we with air on or off sincerely ty MrReavis
I’m glad it helped
Great video, no waffle, concise clear information, ten out of ten ! God bless, Bill.
thanks
Some throttle bodies have a coating that mechanical tools can scratch up. Do NOT clean you throttle body like this. I would never recommend using anything abrasive on a throttle body. The coating is there to prevent aluminum corrosion that can hang up the throttle plates. Use only throttle body aproved cleaners. And if you're worried about the internal engine parts, removed the throttle body then clean it. Plus, not all throttle bodies are the same, some have air bypass solenoids for idle, which often also gets plugged up with carbon and require cleaning.
A good product is seafoam spray. Not the stuff that goes in the tank, they have a spray can that is an intake cleaner and upper engine cleaner. You take the clamp off right before the throttle body, put in the straw and then tighten everything back up and spray the whole can until it's empty while car runs at 2000 rpms. It does a great job at cleaning the throttle body and the engine, I do it every year as a preventive measure so my throttle body never gets to the point that it has to be cleaned by hand. It's just an all around good way to keep the motor clean
Can that harm the catalytic converter?
I would remove the throttle body before doing any cleaning because you don't want any debris going into your engine causing other issues.
I thought so too
That would make sense
removing the throttle body is an extra step that's not needed, the ring that normally builds up can be wiped off with no issue. and if there is any debris they are so micro that it would not hurt anything, by doing it this way you can get 99.9% of it with out removing it.
Make a video then
Juan can you show us a video of the removal? Didn't think so
This looks like exactly what I need to do, I have no code on my wife’s Chevy Sonic 2018 1.8 and has a rough idle. Thanks for sharing, gave a Sub and a Like!
thanks
Thank you sir... Added this to my list...next up after the air filter... I have the jerking back and forth randomly at red lights... have to switch to neutral or park to stop it...or accelerate...
Hope it helps
2012 Chevy equinox having same problem hoping it’s not transmission as I bought vehicle 2 years ago with invoice of transmission belts being completely changed
I did that to my sisters camry,( it's easy and doesn't cost anything). and fixed the problem.
You have a regular can of throttle body cleaner sitting around the garage..
This is the same exact car i have with the same exact problems! thank you will return to see if it works.
how’s it running now ?
Never returned. Lol
Nicely done by a PRO. TY
Glad you enjoyed it!
Yeah... I tried this, I even removed the TB and got a new gasket. And of course I folded the bottom right corner on the gasket putting it back together. But I didn't notice that until after I noticed an even higher idle. So I took it back apart and tried to straighten out the gasket but it's still leaking somewhere.. so I'm gonna use paper board as a gasket untill this weekend..hope someone reads this all and laughs..
How u fix it
Have a 2002 Chevy trailblazer was running like a champ but started to have a rough idle installing a stop sign clean throttle body and replace air filter no change watch the video that said to check your purge valve and sure enough that was the problem the video said if the purge valve is stuck open it creates a vacuum leak funny thing is I never got a code great video thanks for sharing .👍🏻
Thanks
It worked! Thanks to this video!!!
Great pointer I'll try that on my 99 Lexus RX300👍🏻
Wow this might be my issue! I’m trying this tomorrow 🙏
i hope it fixes your problem
Thank you & God bless you for sharing this tip!!!
Thanks for the video, I've been dealing with this problem... cleaning around the butterfly is something I have not tried yet.
Thanks, I'll give it a try in the morning.
Thanks for this video brother. You sure helped me out. God bless you.
Glad I could help
This was right to the POINT and with great over view of what TO DO, and NOT TO DO.👍
Glad it was helpful!
Great. I just decided to clean my throttle body for the first time the other day. Well, I didn’t watch this video. The first thing I did was spray a bunch of cleaner directly in the throttle body. 😣 so far everything still seems okay.
Still have a rough idle though.
Thanks I just did this saved myself had to comment thank you sir
glad it helped
Thanks man I appreciate the help!
Thanks for the helpful intel
Thanks. I've got a low rev problem at idle and restarting from a warmed up engine, it stalls. On the 2nd start, it stays running, but in the mentioned rev situation.
Cheers.
Did you find out what was the problem? I have the same problem
@@fernandoramirez4215 Same. Any help is much appreciated!
Same problem buddy, what did u do?
Haven't sorted it. Clean the mass air, any vacuum leaks- I haven't looked properly yet.
There is this large rubber chamber, like a dampener/ equaliser, that has several air intake pipes to it and an out, that is perishing. It only took a few years from a new car to start doing this.
I then went to get a dealer part and "don't have one". Order it then:- they just ignored me really. Nothing happened. No call back. I haven't been back.
Off Scotty Kilmer- To reset the computer if you need to, only use a 1 ohm, 10W resister between battery leads. ONLY when you have already disconnected those vehicle's 12v battery terminal leads prior ONLY!!! (Never short out between these disconnected battery without the resister- otherwise you'll screw your computer, -just adding.
Sometimes its the simplest things that drives us batty!
Thanks for the video.
You're welcome!
Thank you brother that was a great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video. Will this fix apply to a 2013 Nissan Xterra?
Yes
Did the trick! I used seafoam on a dish rag and now it runs smooth.
glad it worked
Fantastic great
Thanks for this info! Can you share how to fix A Shift light problem and what causes it? This is on a jeep Cherokee 2017. All of the lights went on the gear shift console and the dashboard displayed the shift warning.
2015 Infiniti qx60 3.5, and i just did the coils not cheap, the spark plugs a few months back, and a new air cleaner duct body or whatever its called still rough idle, ill clean it again and pay more attention hope that fixes it. I have not been happy, cleaned it on a 07 bmw x5 and no issues,
check for vacuum leak
@AutoRepairTips757 I was looking at that a while ago. But I switched back to the Fram air filter not sure if the K&N filter may have disrupted something hopefully that's it.
Nice M4 cleaning kit brush 👍
OK, my 2015 Chevy equinox has been jerking while idle with no check engine today. Same thing happened 10 months back and the dealer told me to put a new catalytic converter. Now here we are less than a year later and it’s happening again. I’m honestly going to try this myself.
sorry to hear about your trouble hope this works
Did it work?
Thanks this worked for me!
Thanks great information ℹ️
This is the video for me...though i may have to ask my Dad or a friend for help
Hope it works
Was having rough idling ( basically high rpm around 2k ) issue with my Chevy Kalos 1.2.. Got it cleaned thoroughly by opening the TB from its Mount. After that the above problem was fixed to some extent however, I've noticed check engine light post cleaning and there is also a jerkyness while accelerating especially in low RPM ( say about 1.2k ). Any idea what could be the reason behind it and how to solve it ?
Normally when you clean a dirty throttle body your supposed to do a idle relearn on the car where you basically restart it because the car adjusts to a dirty TB and once you clean it it doesn't have to open as much but the car doesn't know that. So just look up how to do a idle relearn on your car and that should fix your issue I think
Also don't go and get your check engine light checked and see what the code says
@@fredericksville3457 a relearn is not needed in this procedure, when you start up the car the ecm will make any adjustments IF NEEDED.
@@AutoRepairTips757 Okay then what could be Indrajit's issue ?
@@elypeachy3296 disconnected the black and red battery make sure the head lights are on and tie both cables together for 15 to 30 minutes so it can reprogram . Then put the cables back on the battery turn of the headlights and take it for a drive on the hwy. That should fix the problem let me know how it went
I overhauled my stock camaro ss L99 engine heads, valves are now in excellent condition like new, and tight enough. Replaced springs, valve steam rubbers, pushrods, rockers , spark plugs , cleaned valve lifters and injectors (no collapsed lifters on 100K mileage). Replaced all timing components and VVT along with camshaft sensor and magnet. Service Stabilitrak msg is still comes on during cranking along with a rough idle and a clicking noise. Valve lifters were found good but several of them had a scratches on the rollers. Oil pump is new, 50 psi on cruising and 26-29 psi on hot idle. Any suggestions ?? No fault codes
are the valves adjusted correctly ?
I did this.. but I sprayed some directly on/in it because I was told it’s ok to do so.. I didn’t know.. If anything I feel it’s running it’s rpm higher than before?
Thanks sir for saying the truth thanks
Wish you did a before and after so we can see if it’s the problem we are having. But, I will check mine just in case
Have a 2013 cadillac Ats, the car has serious vibrations at idle in reverse but is okay in drive .
You saved my $$$ 🙏🏻 Thanks!
Glad I could help!
Very good quality video bro
Thanks
The throttle body cleaning with engine on or off ???
Off
I have a rough idle at stops also, and even worst when i have my Light on. i have cleaned my throttle body and i have the same result.
i considered my Idle air control valve but i cant locate it on the throttle body. Do all vehicles have an Idle air control valve? I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Pajero io.
thanks for the video. so now i can clean my sister's car🙉
My 2024 Mazda CX-50 turbo has been having rough idle but it's very intermittent, maybe once every 500-1000 miles. It's also a new car so carbon buildup is unlikely. I think the first time I had the issue the odometer was only at around 1500 miles. I took it to the dealership recently but they weren't able to replicate the issue so they just gave the car back.
Great video. Thanks for the info!!
“You can’t spray throttle body cleaner in a throttle body, but you can put a screwdriver and a brush in there” 🤣
Yeah because the fluid will get into the Electronics of the throttle body and and rhythm and a throttle bodies run up to 200 to 500 bucks depending on your vehicle
How do you clean the throttle body?
@@sesone1milli apparently with a screwdriver and a brush
Putting a screw driver and brush doesn't damage it man it can if you're stupid with it but it's genuinely safer
Yup its clear Tyler works at valvoline
I just replaced the oil and filter on my 2014 buick enclave, also I removed the throttlebody completely without disconnecting the battery or any other connector to clean up the entire unit plus I clean up the PCV valve. Car starts up without any problem. The next day, the check engine light came on and I got a code P0174 (4/6) fuel trim system lean bank 2. The RPM are moving up and down and the engine starts coughing on idle. I was looking for any advice to resolve this issue.
check for a vacuum leak
If you have an electric throttle body,have someone or stick etc press the gas pedal all the way to the floor,this open the throttle all the way then cleanit,when finish ease the pedal up easy.If you don't,the computer has to relearn it or you have to get a new one.Cable is not electric.You can open it with screw driver any way you want .keep engine off.This experience,it happen to me.
Do you mean you did not open the throttle with your hand? My brother and I cleaned mine by spraying it while it was on the engine (2015 Buick), not by the method you described. It was idling really rough after. I had the throttle body recalibrated, put Seafoam in the gas tank on two occasions, also in the crankcase per instructions on the can. It is now 85% better. What more would you advise I check? Took it to the Buick dealer and they were clueless. Thanks
@@frustr8dgolfurI would check for any vacuum leaks, check egr, change pcv valve, and air filter also check spark plugs.
Clean the mass air flow sensor while you're in there as well. If the throttle body is filthy I guarantee the MAF isn't looking good.
Cleaned throttle body and idle air control valve, still idling rough.. currently looking at replacing o2 sensor and mass airflow sensor..
Curious tho that if a car has an IAC valve, does the throttle body still need a gap to allow air thru?
I hope this fixes my issue and I hope I can get my TB off; I'm not good with cars and I hate working on them. I just clean my MAF last night and it didn't make any difference at all, but I still have to do the plug pull test I just found out about where you pull the connector while the car is running and if there's no change then your sensor is just bad and needs replaced.
If the TB doesn't do it, then based on other vids, I'll be checking the IAC, vacuum leaks, pcv, maybe the egr.
My car currently idles fine when cold but has low power for driving, but when the engine warms up, it drops from 1500 rpm to 500 rpm and runs very rough, and then when I put it in gear it wants to stall and when driving I have little to no power and can get stuck in traffic and can't go up hills, basically undriveable.
But also a clue is that this was a gradual problem that developed over years and only recently just kind of took a nose dive. I'm sure that narrows it down but without talking to someone, I don't know what.
Unfortunately my problem is compounded with being homeless, broke and unable to work with this undrivable car. If I manage to get this issue fixed then I still need a water pump and timing belt and can only drive the car for 20 minutes before the fluid leaks out, and then it needs full break work. Hanging by a thread here and now winter is setting in so no more warm days for working on the car.
Thank You For Sharing us Your Tips i have the same problem i had 2019 Ram 1500 Classic When i driving it Running Smooth but When i Press the Brake to Stop and Slow Moving Then The Engine Feels Vibration it Like Losing Power Please Let me Know How To Fix It Thanks again I’m From Vancouver British Columbia Canada 🇨🇦🙏😊👍👍👌
are there any codes
Captivia! 😂👍🏻👌🏻
I saw another UA-camr say to open the butterfly slowly. I don't know if it makes a difference whether you open it hard and fast or slow and smooth.
Subscribed
My exact car and year and symptoms. Can't wait to check this. Thank you!
Should the IAC be removed and thoroughly cleaned?
You r the man! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Mine has a rough idle after I give it a bit of gas and then it goes back to 900 rpm after oscillating between 1250 and 500 a couple of times. The engine shakes a bit, too and I think I even heard a misfire after revving it to 3000 rpm. It had a blown vacuum hose which I changed. The rough idle was even more pronounced before that. I don't know if it's ignition, fuel system or the throttle body. I'll check the throttle body first. The spark plugs, distributor cap and spark cables are new (were also broken). I'm worried it might have something to do with the ignition, because the car has other electrical problems involving the lights.
Check for a vacuum leak or maybe an intake hose with a crack somewhere also check at the mass airflow sensor for any leaks
Can a 1in upper intake manifold spacer cause rough idle and a strong exhaust smell?(3025.0L HO
I have a ‘13 equinox, replaced a multitude of things (over 4K of work) my car has a rough idle when I start it up and sometimes stalls and now when I stop at lights, it’s at about 500rpms. Still not sure what it is. I’m at a loss and can’t keep putting money in this thing.
My 07 Sierra stumbles like its going to do or shakes at idle brand new throttlebody from the dealers, any other suggestions LS 4.8l thanks
Those trucks have issues with their plugs and plug wires if you look online you will find the replacement part number that should be in your truck. If you haven’t alreadychanged them start there
Great, thanx
Does it work also on w204 mercedes 2010 model..my car also an rough idle when you stop
Would have loved to see the performance before the fix
I did this a year ago and replaced the position sensor, but rough idle didn’t start until just a few weeks ago… I’ve done valve cover update.. new coils, wires and plugs recently which has greatly improved my mpg. I am now thinking fuel injectors need replacement, I’ve got over 180k on this thing.
It’s not the injectors. So maybe o2 sensors? I bought a scanner that gives live data readings, so before dumping money I’ll just check out the data.
You have a air coming in threw a loose or corked out house. Turn a cigar on and blow the smoke threw the master slave hose and look were the smoke is escaping from that's were your having air coming in from
Ever find out what the issue was? I'm in the same boat, have already replaced all the same parts, and was about to buy fuel injectors.
Thank you
No worries
Thank u for your help
Can a 1in upper intake manifold spacer cause rough idle and a strong exhaust smell?
I have the same issue. in park it’s fine but when I put it in drive & I cruise in traffic (under 5miles an hour) it idles rough or miss firing but high RPMs it’s fine. What do you suggest other than cleaning the throttle body?
CHECK THE SPARK PLUG WIRES THEY MIGHT BE BREAKING DOWN UNDER A LOAD
@@AutoRepairTips757 okay thank you
could this also cause the engine not to warm up all the way? my thermostat and water pump been replaced but does not warm up all the way while driving. at idle itll warm up (too slowly even when its 100 degrees out) but as soon as i drive it cools 10-50 degrees almost quickly depending on the weather, heater works like a charm (2010 3.5 v6 Charger)
If your heater works great you might want to check your heater gauge and make sure it’s reading correctly
I'm having the same issue with my 2014 Mitsubishi outlander. The car takes a min the start going plus at stop lights or sign, my rpm will drop to 500 or lower and bounce back up to around 900 and slow goes down. So might have to try this.
I have the same vehicle, did this work?
Thank you Brother great video I’m going to work on my vehicle
Hi, my 2007 audi a4 b7 has very weak rev at idle. I stepped on the gas and the rpm just slowly goes up. Before it revs up nice and strong. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Thank you. Big mucho Grande. I'll try this before I buy plugs and could. But I did hear change your spark plugs every 40 k Nissan cube so. I we I'll see w hat happens