Here's the TWO SENSORS YOU NEED TO REPLACE FOR BETTER IDLE !!
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2020
- Here's the TWO SENSORS YOU NEED TO REPLACE FOR BETTER IDLE !!
Replacing The Idle Air Control Valve And O2 Sensor Gave Me Better Idle.
In today's video I'm on the search for a better idle for my 1995 GMC Suburban. This truck is in great shape and has only 83k miles as of the making of this video. But, the idle is poor. It's rough. Not enjoyable while sitting at a stoplight. So, based on many comments from previous videos I decided to order a brand new Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) as well as an O2 sensor.
The vehicle in this video is a 1995 GMC Suburban which is the same as the Chevrolet Suburban. The GMT400 platform sometimes referred to as an OBS.
** I am an Amazon associate. I make a commission based on sales through my Amazon associate links.**
Here's the Oxygen Sensor (O2 Sensor) I used in this video: amzn.to/3c77ig8
Here's the Idle Air Control Valve used in this video: amzn.to/33xPu9S
Here's the DAP Rapid Fuse Glue: amzn.to/35HOHWO
www.1roadgarage.com
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon associate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon associate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places. - Авто та транспорт
For GM vehicles before 1995 without MAF sensors it's also important to double check your Coolant temperature sensor as it also plays a huge part in the calculation of fuel to air ratio.
CTS dictates whether the ECM is in closed loop or open loop..
Most modern fuel injected engines use CTS for mapping fuel; not just GM. Easy to check with a scan tool with live data. Take the vehicle out of direct sunlight and let it rest for a few hours. Turn ignition on, check the CTS with the scan tool. It should be very close to the outside ambient temperature. If it's not within a few degrees F then it's giving the wrong data.
I have a 1991 chevy suburban, do you have any videos on how to change the coolant temperature sensor?
Yes and use GM parts vs. aftermarket brands. Not all aftermarket is bad but many are not qualified for sensors etc.
Another tip for TBI GM motors everyone forgets...TBI CLEANING AND NEW Throttle Body GASKET! Your Welcome!~
As some sharp subscriber posted below, replace the gasket for the air cleaner. cheap. also, any vacuum leak is bad news. check and replace old cracked vacuum lines. you are doing great work....step by step....check battery connections and condition of battery.
I had a 95 chevy van. It ran good. I wrecked it. I bought a titan and im in love with it.
I subscribed several channels: You, Chrisfix, Car wizard, Wrench With Kenny, Dieseldog, etc. Comparing and analysing different ideas is benefits me as an audience and self-taughr "mechanic".
Yep I think you're right. No one ever thinks about replacing parts that haven't been proven to be faulty. 😮 Not everyone just wants to throw money at the problem and hope it works. Good luck, I would have cleaned them and try that first. 😊
The next time you try to take off those brutal brittle plastic connectors......use a hair dryer to warm it up as it will soften it up ...also when you reconnect it.....if it doesn’t reach use a dry vac extension with the hair dryer.....it does hurt to spray and tiny bit of oil on it ..helps it slide off and off.
For my 94, with 384k miles, my O2 sensor wasn't budging!!! I ended up taking to Tuffy Muffler and they put it on a rack and used a 3 ft long breaker bar it free it up.
When I need more leverage I use my floor jack handle
The TPS sensor and the IAC sensor does some of the work the old carburetor jets used to do
The only thing I’ve never felt I could do with a Chris fix video is rust repair! Love that guys channel!!
That poor idle happened to my 2004 Expedition and replaced the IAC and also cleaned MAF sensor and the throttle butterfly and the results is fantastic,The idle is like a whisper, I like to share it to you guys.Oxygen sensor is not included in bad idle,Also if your ignition coil is old replace them with new spark plugs,You'll glad you did.
How to test ignition coil conditions? Mine already 100k plus only change everything except coil plug and fuel pump. Civic 8th gen
With my wife’s’94 Probe, I’ve had an intermittent ‘check engine’ light come on when going uphill and sluggish performance. Cleaned the MAF sensor and took her out for an hour of acceleration up hills and highway speeds and ‘no light’ and the performance is vastly improved.
@@khairulihsan8417 you don't need to change out a coil until it fails. You'll get a misfire when it fails.
Best beginning ever - when you break an electric connector it forces you to learn more about electronic repairs and pigtails. So break it!
I like Chris a lot He's the first guy I came across and felt encouraged to be a DIY guy from that time. You work on GMC's a lot though so I tend to go to your channel as well.
You are an excellent teacher for those of us who have not been professionally educated about automobiles (the majority out here). I love how slow and dumbed-down, for us, you communicate. That is noticed, and greatly appreciated! I also love, how truthful you are, from the beginning disclosure notice, to everything afterwards ..........TRUTHFUL. The novices and layman out here truly appreciate you, as we struggle with our vehicle's problems, and potential professional repair costs. THANK YOU !!!!!!!!!
what I've done for these broken clips is glue them back in the installed position, not before install. that way they hold until the next time.
Exactly
Sky Walker good idea. Thinking outside the box. 😁
brilliant---bravo
Replacement plugs are cheap and just de-pin the wires one at a time and install them in the new plug.
There is a special bonding agent to repair these clips. Car audio shops use it al the time. Available at Advanced Auto for sure and others likely. A little pricey but worth it.
Hey everybody Chris fix here 😂
Guess Scotty Kilmer dosen't make a cameo appearance
Lol
Lol..
Yeah Scotty kilmer has a MUCH bigger presence than Chris fix, Chris is big too but Scotty owns the market
Lol
10,000 points for the zip tie hack !
You know SMA would have replaced the connector just as simple and not a hack
Haaaaa
Did the same hack for the camshaft position sensor in my 16 year old Tundra.
I've been watching your shows for a couple of years I have seen you finding problems and with your problems I enjoyed watching you solve them. Thank you for your insperation to keep always learning
The zip tie trick was on point and creative. Sometimes you have to improvise
My 1995 k1500 was running like crap I did the same parts and man what a difference it mad thank u
Good job. Great video. Shows you go to the cheapest parts then the more costly parts. Saves money and time. Well done.
I like people who share experience to others 👍👍👍👍👍
All I can say is thanks... I love my 1999 K2500. Your videos have definitely helped me keep it on the road. I’m in no hurry to spend 50k to replace it. I’ve managed to preserve it with twice a year oil sprays. It does snow plowing duty. I get the joy of traveling on all the salted roads from a winter storm. I get it oil sprayed in the fall and in the spring after it’s been subjected to numerous salt baths.
Ed. What kind of oil are you spraying on ???
Just changed mine 1 month ago on both of my vehicles. I did get a code on my 2001 but also changed them on my 2005 and they DID make a great difference. Thanks.
Word to the wise - CARBON. IAC was pretty dirty there - probably be cleaned but why not do new? CLEAN OUT THE PORT YOU'RE PUTTING THE IAC INTO. The reason is because the valve shuts off and turns on airflow to the TB - hence idle issues. When you clean the TB clean the IAC. Hint - sometimes a bad IAC DOESN"T throw a code either. One more thing - don't ever say "PLEASE DONT BREAK-PLEASE DONT BREAK!" Guaranteeds breaking - lol. Relearning on GM sometimes takes a little roadtime. Been a GM guy for 50 yrs and SO WORTH IT to DIY! Have a 4.3 Vortec on a 03' S10 w/305k and STILL RUNS LIKE A CHAMP! Take care of it and it will take care of YOU! WTG Dude - GREAT VIDEO!!!!
Just the excitement in your voice makes me want to do it, Thanks for sharing your experience.
Glad replacing the 2 sensors worked out for you. Jusy remember, 'NEW' = 'Never Ever Worked'.
Please how much u buy 2 sensor please my Toyota Corolla dey fuel consumption dey high i just scan it today
How much is o2 sensor i need to change my please
Even though this was two years ago I got really happy when I saw this video and your happiness, you explained things so well that to me you sounded interesting and decided to watch the whole video, I'm convinced that I should change those two in my own vehicle and like yours my car is pretty close to twenty-five years old too, I'm the second owner and I bought it back in 1999 but actually it's a 1996 Pontiac Grand Am SE 2.4 L, and as you can see it was three years old when I bought it and it was only forty-four thousand miles only, the very first owner was an order lady from Michigan and she only drove it to go to the store and back to her home, and even though was three years old at the time it had not to many miles on, thanks man
Never a bad idea to replace all the sensors after 20-25 years regardless of mileage. O2, IAC, MAP, MAF, EGR, etc.
All the idle changes from starting to A/C coming on and A/C turning off are normal. When first starting your engine, it will be at a higher idle due to the computer being in a open loop waiting for the O2 sensors to heat up to normal parameters so it can ajust air and fuel correctly, then the computer will go into a closed loop bringing the RPM back to normal idle. This is why your are suppose to wait for the engine to warm up a little bit before driving, allowing the computer to be able to read all the sensors, otherwise you would be driving a vehicle in open loop while it's running rich until the computer and sensors cought up to actual real life sensor data. The computer also ajust for engine load information, like A/C coming on or off, to alternator load. Depending on how much load the computer is seeing, it will ajust idle to put the engine at correct idle.
I have a weak during warm-up that sounds like "waiting for the O2 sensors to heat up to normal parameters" ~ currently I have changed to let it initialize before cranking then whenever plausible await some warm-up but this bringing mileage down to 14.9 when it had been 16 recently and could be 19.8 all downhill on the interstate with tailwind 15 below posted limit;
2001 "w" 8-th digit 325,000 going for 500,000 by going to Am soil
Threw my 5-page factory manual in the trash as too much computer plastic exploit's and am sure I cannot go for 60w just to keep the pressure where it used to be at 40psi with QS 40w in 67 Impala bought from recovery at the gate of the crusher; I need this thing to stay on "closed loop" except after 20 minutes on the interstate as it makes it risky in town doing what it does; Replaced cap & rotor with Iridium this month and will now idle at stops if I punch out the A/C
Aftermarket chips just will destroy the thing so that is not a fix; I can ask McNamara to see what these sensors look like on his Sun code-reader → would you suggest that???
Mrs .Alice Centola
Publishers Clearing House
Good
Those old burbs were the best people haulers for trips ever made.
I love that truck. It's beautiful . The new ones aren't nice like that anymore.
Always refer to OEM (GM) service documentation ahead of time. Saved my bacon more than once. Especially with anything electrical. CAFE regs were explicitly designed to make us crazy.
Thanks for working on these GM vehicles. I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with VERY similar components and this helps a ton. @Chrisfix definitely rocks the content!
A. Iii q 8hc c vgv
Great as usual, cleaning up the electricals is good way to smooth out the idle even down to cleaning up the ignition lock and key, I use blue horizon contact cleaner which I also use for my home entertainment units
Awesome stuff. Video was good but what I also found interesting is good positive comments on the thread loaded with awesome info. Thank you!
I have a 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass ciera 3.3 L 6.
Just loaded with sensors/gadgets.
😐
that was funny, Aint life grand;; You are very funny. 40 years ago the kids in high school did the don't break song. You are entertaining. And probably a good mechanic. Not afraid to break something.
On older vehicles, be sure vacuum lines and their connections are good. This includes o-rings at sensors/actuators e.g. evap vapor purge solenoid valve. All the little leaks add up for unmetered air.
Even leaks in TB gasket?
@@khairulihsan8417 I would say yes. Any leak is altering the mixture, and, therefore, confusing the computer. My comment was by experience of tidying up leaks (which is a loathsome job), but I did see improvements.
@@louf7178 I’d rather chase leaks than chase a small parasitic draw which I’ve been doing for hours and hours 😬
@@CyberAndy_ yes. Could even cause stalling if the leak is big enough
@@CyberAndy_ if it's only happening while stopped it's possible it's something else. A large leak would cause rough running all the time. It might not be getting the proper air/fuel mixture at idle which could be a bad sensor(s).
This was very helpful information--I was thinking that the PCM needs reprogramming as it is ultimately controlling the idle mix ratio. I found that addition of 300 mL of Liqui Moly (MoS2 dispersion; $ 9) to the 6 quarts of engine oil quietens the idle of my Colorado. I can barely hear the engine running while inside the truck. It is supposed to reduce the friction between the moving parts--action is similar to graphite.
I recently replaced my o2 sensor and it made a great difference.
When a clip breaks try putting the plug on before you glue or cement the broken piece. It should hold it in place as good, especially if you do a good job with the glue like the first time. Another alternative is if you heat the clip side a little with a heat gun (carefully) before you move it you may have a better chance wiggling it off or on before it's moved.
It does matter if the latch breaks because they will noy come loose anyway,I know been mechanic for a living for 35+ yrs
@@dwb4462 broken English
Great idea Mr Deth! Also, Try Superglue welding and add structure to the length of the clip.
Jimmy, thanks for the great videos. I have an ‘03 Suburban but also have a ‘90 t-bird. I tried a couple times cleaning the IAC in the T-Bird and it never really helped. So I got one from a junkyard. It was a little better but not as good as it could be. Neither of these really looked dirty or bad in any way. But like you, when I put a new one in, I noticed a big improvement in the car’s idle. Some things can be cleaned and sometimes it’s best to just buy new. Thanks again, God bless.
Probably only ultrasonic cleaning could work.
Idk if anyone has pointed this out yet. But if you go back and look at the new idle air control valve to his old one. You can see the difference. New ones spring is way more tighter together than the old ones spring. Thanks for sharing Chris
Exactly, That is the part that fails.. The spring gets clogged and weak.
I have a 95 Tahoe which is reasonably good shape, Your videos have been very helpful although I cannot afford to do as much as I would like. But thanks for your videos and keep up the good work !
Oh my god you are good at explaining your speed is perfect even myself from Zimbabwe I didn't have to pause the video and scroll it back because I didn't understand anything. My thumbs are right up for you and you are very well subscribed and shared. Keep up the good work❤
1st step I go through is checking/cleaning throttle body. That should help. Nice vid
I888888888
It’s the little things under the hood that make a big difference in how your car performs. Thanks Jimmy, informative video.
When you install a new IAC you should do it with the battery disconnected, give the computer time to lose its old memory. After installing the new IAC connect the battery and start the vehicle. Let it idle in park for 2 minutes, drive for 2 minutes, with your foot on the brake and drive, with your foot on the brake, with the ac on. That usually reprograms the computer to the new IAC.
Hey Jimmy, that was easy, and good advice, thanks a bunch, and please don't break !!
IAC plunger can jam up with carbon on the inside and not see it. Always a good idea to change the O2 sensors in the OBD1 setup, think it's like every 50,000 miles, to give engine better gas mileage. Always run better with clean injectors too, LOL. Want it to run really smooth, change the timing chain. Not that many miles on engine but the chain can still stretch. Can verify a stretched timing chain by putting a timing light on the plug wire, if the mark is bouncing around on the scale then the chain is stretched.
How much is "like" every 50,000?
@@BatGS keep track of milage and plan to change asap on that milage mark.
I love the smell of new parts
Unless its a Dorman product
I threw a lot of money at my 1989 Pontiac Trans Am GTA trying to get it running right. It would idle, but would fall on it's face when given any gas. New fuel tank(was rusty), new fuel pump, new sending unit, new filter sock, new fuel filter, new fuel pressure regulator, new TPS, new distributor, new plugs, new wires, new coil, all eight injectors new, and new intake gaskets. Transmission replaced and the cat converter is not a problem thanks to a converter thief. It was down to the Idle Control Valve, O2 sensor, or the ECM. I installed the ICV sensor last night and it now will accelerate. Still has a few bugs, but will go down the road now.
my check engine was flashing, i swapped the DSOS, and it totally solved the problem. Now I'm thinking about that idle air control valve!
I replaced my exhaust a month ago in my 95 K2500. 100k mi. In the upgrade I put a new O2 sensor in. What a difference. Stronger idle, better shifts, seems like more horsepower. I now think replacing every 50k .miles should be standard.
Man, I wish O2 sensor way cheaper if it's going to change every 50k. Now Im totally confident that O2 on my 8th gen civic will be the last thing to replaced to correct my AFR. Thanks for the comments
Always watching and liking these OBS vids Keep them Coming! Thanks to UA-cam My 5.7 is around 300k miles with OG engine and trans and still purrs. Also...
Another tip for TBI GM motors everyone forgets...TBI CLEANING AND NEW Throttle Body GASKET! Your Welcome!~
Replaced the base gasket on throttle body .that worked for me .
Also a bad egr valve can cause issues with rough running/ stalling
Also if your wires are good, can go down to your local auto parts store pick up a new pig tail depin it one wire at a time and transfer it over costs about $12,been around these trucks along time, back when the square bodies had tbi on them..... yeah im that old. Put 300 000 miles on one drove it evey winter through salt and cold
Or a Vacuum leak !!!
Thank you
Or intake gasket leak (ig it’s also a type of vacuum leak like what someone above stated) id know cuz I currently have one.
Your head moving the camera moving was like watching the blair witch project.
It was
Chris is the man, HE IS GREAT to show how to get the job done!!!! 👍
Hey jimmy I have a 1994 5.7 and I love watching your videos because you go into such detail with the whole truck and you have some of the exact same problems I’ve had and I’ve been able to fix a lot of my problems on my truck because of your help! So thank you for that, I know it’s kind of random and probably not realistic but could you make a video on installing a new timing chain cover gasket set, my timing chain cover is leaking some oil and I need a good video on the exact same engine I have and a good instructor if I’m gonna tackle that job! Thanks for the content brother keep it up!
9:01 9:34
The made in Japan stamp on the o2 sensor would be a big confidence booster for me.
Been working on the same rough idle issues on my 95 K1500 350TBI. IAC made a huge improvement, planning to rebuild throttle body next.
i cleaned my egr valve and it idles/runs smoother, and stopped smoking
Going to rebuild throttle body soon also!
95 Chev 350 TBI - has vapor lock symptoms... in 95°+ heat
Crank won't start. After I let it sit for couple hours it runs normal. Any suggestions or similar experiences? Thanks
Jimi Cruz I had a similar problem - But it had to do with the Immobilizer ( Key was Worn Out )-Correction - It wasn’t the key !!! It was A huge ignition Fuse right under the Steering Wheel 👍👍👍
When you rebuild your TBI unit get the injectors flow tested, the are notorious for being miss matched, you can also get a plenum spacer that allows each bank to "borrow" some air fuel mixture from the other side to allow for a smoother running engine, or Holley still makes a 670 TBI unit. That mixed with an Edelbrock manifold sure surprised a few TPI Camaros back in the day( 90 2wd short box stepside)
I once used a zip tie for 2 years before I got a replacement connector. They always come in handy!
Back in the day we used to use broom sticks and tape to fix things 👍🏻
My 02' Blazer ZR2 w/ 300k miles was getting poor mileage but running fine. I just had my Distributor, Rotor, Cap, Plugs, Wires, ECM & Coil changed out.
Those needed changed but my mileage sucked.
I replaced all 3 of my 02 Sensors & oh my!
She runs like new! I'm getting Sticker mpg for 2002, 16mpg in town & better on highway! She runs better than my Wife's new car with the AC on! You can't feel it running when your stopped at a red light.
I've been offered a good penny for her but I'm not selling. I got a new HD Tranny also.
A couple of comments- the IAC isn’t a sensor, it just does what the ECM tells it. It also doesn’t cause poor idle unless it doesn’t respond to the commands correctly, whether it remains open or closed when it should have moved. It ‘parks’ every time the key is turned off and opens to a pre-programmed position. The IAC part is called a ‘stepper motor’, which moves in discrete increments, not in a continually variable manner (like a volume control or other kind of motor). A bad IAC can cause high or low idle, sluggish hard acceleration or bogging/stalling when the driver removes their foot from the gas pedal when stopped or coasting, respectively. The engine will restart normally unless the IAC has stopped opening or closing properly.
The ECM doesn’t need to learn anything from the IAC but it would need to go through its routine with the new O2 sensor, but that may only take one or two run cycles.
BTW, clearing codes doesn’t happen in a half hour of disconnecting the battery because that would make troubleshooting very difficult. However, it may cancel the check engine light. The codes are stored in non-volatile memory.
The likely cause of the idle issues was the O2 sensor.
How did he know which O2 sensor to replace since there are so many?
Great info Jim, thank you.
What is the best way to clear codes?
@@hughhall3210 If you don't want to buy a scanner, go to almost any auto parts store and have them check for codes- their scanner should be able to clear your codes. If you already have a scanner, look for this feature.
Thank you for the video... The better way to reset the computer, is to touch the positive and negative battery terminals together... Simply remove them from battery and hold them together for 30 seconds... It will take that computer out of lympmode, and return it to its factory settings...
Yessir 👊🏻👊🏻
LOVE CHRISFIX HE IS ONE OF THE BEST MECH UA-camR AROUND.....
To speed up the computer reset, simply disconnect the negative, then use a small jumper wire connecting that to the postive, the computer's capacitors will be drained in just a few minutes. I have videos about this (so do other UA-camrs) BUT REMEMBER, do the restart with a completely cold engine - turn the key to ON (don't start it), let that sit for 20 seconds, THEN start the car, let it idle for 5 minutes, then go driving. And when you start driving again, drive gently and slowly for a few days. Especially with an automatic transmission vehicle.
Great job and nice plug for Chris
Thank you that was good, keep it coming 💯✌️
Man that is a clean looking 95 truck
My iacv on my 91 Honda Civic went out it had low compression. Mechanic's said engine was dead.Saw a video on iacv and compression. Changed the iacv and car started up. Runs good 👍
After reading all the comments i learned more about gmc trucks than i needed. Thanks to you.
To do a fast reset, disconnect BOTH battery cables, and touch them together for 10 seconds. This negates any power stored within the computers power system, clearing to factory settings
Nice vid, Jimmy! One more thing many overlook when "rough idle" - engine and trans mounts. The rubber in these mounts get hard, brittle and cracked.
Very valid comment. I had a thud when starting and rough idle in a 1998 Accord V6. It turned out to be a broken engine transmission mount which when replaced solved both problems.
Great video, Jimmy. I wish you had checked it after installing the idle sensor, just for an FYI, because I have an inquiring mind. Thanks to you, I have a possible solution on my rough idle 2018 Ford F150 3.5L, and I too will be changing out both of mine as well. Again, these are Great Videos.
Thank you Jimmy i have the same problem on my Ford BA/ Barra engine (Australian Ford) 2004 will follow what you have done..cheers mate and thanks: From Sydney Australia:
Nice video. My 94 c1500 wasn’t idling or shifting properly at all. Had to play around with gas pedal and sometimes didn’t shift between gears until 4000 rpm. Changed the IAC valve and the TPS (throttle position sensor), $10.00 each from CarParts. Truck idles, runs, and shifts like new! Has 527,000 miles on it too!! Stay safe. ✌️
Thanks for letting us know. Lately my 95 has been dragging the shifts too long but I’ll definitely change out those 2 sensors. I’m at 462k so it won’t hurt to swap them out. After all they been there since new
@@jamesmaldonado5794 👍 The TPS controls the shifting and IAC controls the idle. CarParts online has them as a kit for $20 + $10 shipping. Best deal around. Best of luck!! ✌️
Thank you for the information, is good to know.
I'm going to autoparts for my Chevy Silverado.
I have a 2003 Honda CRV that I bought brand new and have used Mobil 1 motor oil and Mobil 1 oil filters...I know that my vehicle is very different from yours but I recently broke 300,000 miles and it runs and rides like new...I am trying to make my car last as long as possible so we'll see what happens...love your videos so keep up the great work !!!
On GMC / GM vehicles I recommend that you test the 02 sensor by enriching your mixture during a live data stream and look at the O2 sensors response time, if it is lazy replace it, the idle control selonoid has a manufactures specifications in ,miliamps and you should check those specs, a loose idle controll selonoid will give you a lean reading due to a vacume leak the computer will dump fuel to richen up the mixture causing a lean misfire. This mam ,is diagnosed his vehicle
If anyone uses super glue regularly, pouring baking soda over the pieces you glued together will make the glue dry instantly due to a chemical reaction. It makes life a bit easier when your glue dries fast!
All he needed to do was put a hair dryer on that connector and warm up the plastic so it would flex just enough to remove it. But...he did what he did when all was cold and stiff.
@@Garth2011 actually, thats a great idea...or just run the engine till it warms up a bit, plastic gets hot and same effect...more flexible
That zip tie action is definitely roadkill approved.
Sounds like the old IAC was gummed up. 50 rpm is about right for the kick up, the computer on my 95 does exactly the same thing when the ac clutch engages.
Nice vid I just did the same work but I also replaced the EGR just to play it safe.
I'm here to tell you the Idle Air Control sensor is what fixed your idle. I did that one first, then started the truck, for the first time, with no gas pedal. Perfect idle at 1100. Before, it had to give lots of gas and it was hard to start. After it started, it had a very weak, uneven, dying idle that would stall out when driving cold. No longer! Then I changed the 02 sensor, and it didn't seem to do much else.
I Love your video your trucks Beautiful love the lil adventures you go on im a beginner learning my way around my 96 chevy tahoe 5.7 l and i had all sudden crappy idle and i did the whole tune up cap rotor spark plugs wires fuel filter but not the two seniors ....long story short it was damn cat converters! 😔
Replace throttle position sensor too, they can wear out and give improper reading
True !!!!!
I have a 2002 Highlander that runs like a Lexus it only has 38000 miles on it. I inherited it from my 87 year old Mom that passed. Thanks Mom. 😘 the other day it was so smooth I couldn’t tell it was turned on and it is a 2.4 L 4 banger. Toyota makes some great engines.
Check the spring in the fuel bypass on that tb ..mine was broken..good video
Install the plug then glue it let it cure,also when you removed idle control valve you should have cleaned out the passage way with throttle body cleaner
I was curious about the same thing. Would you recommend something plastic safe like mass air flow cleaner, or carb cleaner spray and a plastic bristle tube brush if it holds up while not introducing any scratches in the seat of the area?
@@That_Handle don t use carb/throttle cleaner on MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR !! Throttle body cleaner for throttle body Carb cleaner for that .. I would not use a plastic brush it might melt Use a fine stainless steel brush and clean cloth
@@martyhonda6983 ,
Ah, yeah - mistake in writing there putting the plastic bristle brush in with the carb cleaner. Thinking something soft like a brass brush and make sure any metal sticking out at the end doesn't score the seat of the valve. So it sounds like carb cleaner in this instance and leave the mass airflow sensor for that particular situation? I was concerned about surrounding Plastics as they already have the predisposition of brittleness from age.
@@That_Handle since your under the hood you might as well spray the MF sensor too , give it enough time to dry out before reinstalling
@@martyhonda6983 ,
👍 Yeah, was recollecting to my youth/earlier DIY days when I'd come to reflect upon those order of operations after the deed was already done, too late. 😏 The lessons of hindsight. 🍻 Hm. Sent me off on a short nostalgic trip at that moment seeing what kind of pooled similar events occurred and assessing how long it took before my younger self realised/read about the patterns on geocities forums, etc. websites esp., vehicle- / make-specific quirks as well as counter-intuitive and/or [worker]-unfriendly and/or convoluted labor by way of design... Such subject-matter exposés are videos at the top of what I like to watch.... There's a guy who covers Ford product issues that I apprecite who pops up in my feed every so often.... Has to be so much more content, though, across the board - enough for dedicated channels or, at least, sub-set playlists from YT automotive creators.
Something was telling me from your last video, that your idling issue was a sensor. Just wasn't sure which it could've been. Sometimes the temperature sensor will give an irratic idle too. Luckily you fixed it with the two sensors you changed. Great video Jimmy!! 👌
Or the Catalytic converter ?
@@jimmysapien9961 I don't think so. It would have to be awfully clogged but, you never know. 🤷♂️ It is a pretty old truck.
@@iceman45ification1 you never know 🤔
Which 2?
One thing I would look at is your timing chain / gears. Like the guy you mentioned I drive and repair Fords. I had a 5 liter V8 with 200,000 miles. No leaks or burning oil. But at stop lights it had a slight skip or miss. I decided it was time to replace the timing chain and sprockets . What I found when I got it opened up is the chain was loose and the sprockets worn out . Chain was sloppy!
I ran nothing but Mobil 1 oil and religiously changed it every 3 to 5,000 miles. So the pistons and valves were in great shape for the miles on the engine.
I changed out the timing chain and sprockets and I ran smooth as silk at idle and had improved overall performance.
So check out your engine timing, you might be surprised what you find!
Thank you, going to work on my 1994 K1500 tomorrow
The owners manual for your vehicle will have recommendations as to replacement and/or cleaning intervals; typically under the Maintenance section. If not, a good rule of thumb, is to replace the O2 sensors every 100,000 km.
Even scan tools said no error right? Can we check O2 sensor whether it's ok or not by measure the voltage?
@@khairulihsan8417 I think the proper voltage should be 0.8 to 0.9 volt. Find the two pins that are zero ohm, the other two pins would be the signal pins.
IAC Valves are sometimes also called "stepper motors". as the computer reads the speed of the engine and load condition, it either reduces or opens the plunger on the IACV. it also raises the RPMs to increase the engine when the AC or any high amp is engaged to keep it at a certain rpm at idle . most cars on the O2 sensor are a maintenance requirement as they should be changed around 30000 miles on some vehicles. check the owners manual for such requirements.
Thanks for the info!!! Comments like yours are why I try to read them all.
Cudos on the clean engine compartment. I had a 95 GMC Sierra PU for years and loved it, in fact I regret selling it. GM trucks are sky high to buy right now. I have a 2011 now that I don't ever plan on selling.
When replacing IAC, sometimes it is necessary 2 perform a calibration process...sometimes it takes a few attempts. Also the IAC piston depth and spring can B adjusted. However I do not recommended this 4 newbies.
Could be a clogged fuel filter,that’s what was wrong with my 96 Tahoe
Wish you would've let us hear the engine idle Before you replaced the parts!..
Old skool carbs swallowed hard the octane!
Dont damage the catalytic converter
Just got my hands on a new oxygen sensor. 🙌 I'm of the replace most/all the things persuasion myself. These cars are 25 years old and I'm my going to be told how to love mine by haters that don't drive it!
I follow you and Chris and learn from both
Thanks for you and chris