I rebuilt my engine last winter and went with a solid compensating sprocket. I already had a Baker primary chain adjuster. Last summer I didn’t get out much for personal reasons but when I did, I had a lot of clutch slipping. Mostly when taking off hard in 1st gear. This winter I upgraded to a Barnett Scorpion clutch and while I was in there, a Man O War compensator. I finally got out this Saturday and all I can say is Wow! Between the clutch and the smoothness of the compensator, it’s a whole new bike. No more clutch slippage. I was slipping more in second gear than I realized. First gear takes of hard and when I shift to second and hit the throttle, I’m gone. The sifts are butter smooth no more vibration at idol like the solid sprocket gave me. If you need a compensator, get the Man O War.
I had 135,000 miles on my 2003 Ultra and never had a problem with the compensator. Now my 2012 Ultra with 25,000 miles is needing replacement. Good job, Harley.
Thanks for videos and tips. I replaced the stock compensator on my 2012 ultra and absolutely impressed with how quiet and smooth the dark horse motor sprocket is.
I recently installed the Darkhorse Crankworks Motor Sprocket on my TC Ultra Limited....couldn't be happier. Great design, it's quiet, no more clunk, shifts like butter and is easy to find neutral with out all the clunking in and out trying to get there. Install is fairly simple and went smoothly. DHCW Motor Sprocket is a much better design than any compensator out there....
Just bought a 2013 street glide and brought it home to chain all fluids to amsoil. When i drained the primary seen green plastic peices in the drain pan. Pulley the cover and it has a manowar compensater the 4 bolts on the face were sheered off and floating around in the primary. Also is where all the green plastic was coming from
I had the compensator clunking bad on my 2010 Roadglide at 15,000 miles. It would kickback and barely start when hot and made all sorts of racket. Not long it wore out the inner primary bearing and the whole primary had to come apart. We replaced with the SE compensator and a manual chain adjuster as the chain was too tight. That solved all the primary problems, she runs like a dream now.
My 2006 compensator failed at around 50,000 miles... the inner springs all where flat upon each other... I installed a BDL belt drive and no issues... BUT I say that to say this, using a solid sprocket up front instead of compensation sprocket with a belt drive one needs to learn how to use to avoid bucking... at low speeds it likes a lil higher rpm which I’ve learned to adjust to. Great video and tech!
My 1973 Triumph Tiger (poor man's Harley) uses rubber pieces wedged in the clutch hub as a shock absorber. I replaced the hub assembly last winter, because it was making noises. The bike has 62,000 miles. The spider that holds the rubber pieces had almost wore thru the inner side plate of hub. My point is the rubber lasted 62,000 miles & 47 years.
Dude I am totally digging the cafe racer in the background! I'm a little late since this video was posted and I'm sure that bike is complete by now. Looking good man and thanks for the good informational videos!
Newly installed Man O-War Motorsprocket (2010 Heritage Classic 11K miles) - Also installed with this new compensator was a Hayden M6 BT07 automatic primary chain tensioner. I had great expectations, but no idea exactly what I was going to get out of the Motorsprocket..... But I'd previously switched from standard, fixed position tensioner to a Hayden automatic in my 2003 Heritage; And knew what to expect. The Hayden smoothed out my shifting and made the power curve while running through the gears feel seamless. As for the Motorsprocket; I didn't feel much during my brief test drive at the shop (Grove Cycle, El Cajon, CA). I trailered the bike, took it home and put on my hwy riding gear, determined to run the bike through it's paces and see what had really changed. I'm in San Diego; so we don't have highways.... we have Freeways; Which means that on a long, up hill on ramp we go from zero to 85 mph as fast as we can to "blend" into traffic. After several miles up and down the freeway and half a dozen on ramps..... Here's the best way I can describe what changed after installing the Man O-War Motorsprocket. You know how you can FEEL when it's time to shift during acceleration? Maybe you're paying more attention to traffic than your tachometer; You're getting up to speed (oh you know) But you can always FEEL the familiar level of engine vibration that reminds you it's time to shift up to the next gear........ Well, all that was GONE! That "oh it's time to shift" vibration was gone. It felt like the engine could have cared less whether I up-shifted or not...... It just wanted to accelerate. Next my thoughts moved to "Oh, I better keep and eye on my tach... I don't want to Red Line my baby." Now, as I drive around, I can't help but think how nice it is that I don't have those heavy, metal compensator parts Banging Against Each other....... nothing but bang free, rubber cushioned engine power headed to my rear tire. LOVE IT!!!!!
That is EXCELLENT news sir. Glad it worked out so well for you. Thank you for taking the time to write this up. I'll share it with DH and let them know as well.
@@KevinBaxter I posted the same write-up on their FB page and left a voice message for Andrew thanking him for answering my phone calls and questions leading up to the install. Another ride today... the bike is significantly faster.... Next item is that FP3 Tuner for Vance & Hinds; Little icing on the cake.
You got it Rick :) Glad you reached out to them as well. Depending on future performance plans for the bike, I would recommend looking a little deeper into the tuning system you choose...keep options open i guess i should say ;)
NativeSD53 as far as the tuner goes , for what it is worth , I think you would be very happy if you looked heavily at the Dynojet Powervision Tuner my friend . It’s the best of the best for the fuel injected bikes hands down . Lots of tuners out there but only one Dynojet Powervision. Very happy that Hammer Prefomance Suggested this for my bike and engine build . Those guys now there stuff . Research the powervision and you’ll see why it’s great 👍 money well spent for your baby for sure
Before seeing your videos, I eliminated my compensator by replacing it with a solid sprocket. So far, I really like it. No more clunky noises from the compensator. I had two spring packs weaken on me. I don’t know, right now I’m happy with the solid sprocket.
Hey man, recently purchased it. I tried ordering from you, something was wrong with site. I put it from man o war. Part of a list of things to be done soon. Great video Kevin.
@@biggbossman1130 that was on my 4th attempt to ride it home from modesto hd after they fixed the loose nut.the last time it came off it still had about 2" of the crank attached to it.i got the same ol answer.....oh we didn't cause that.took it to Livermore hd and they put a new crank in it in no time.
Thanks for the video. I just replaced the whole primary on my 2008 Road King. In my case the starter went bad. When I started researching starters it led me to the compensator. Anyone with a stock compensator with the 96 ci engine prior to 2010 should be planning to replace their compensator sooner rather than later. In addition to the starter, my inner clutch hub splines were being ground up. I ended up replacing everything but the primary chain. Thanks for your videos.
Did that solve your issue? I just went through a starter jackshaft and a few ring teeth are missing. I have the baker comp and six speed, although I don’t know how old it is. It’s noisy only when starting. Seems there’s a lot of kick back and clanking
I don't really have any experience with the compensator but am about to get familiar with it. THANX A MILLION FOR YOUR VIDEOS GREAT STUFF. Ill yell that out. I have performance mods doubling the power of my 1200 first repair the clutch I went with Barnett extra plate carbon - and took the route of ATF tranny fluid in the case it grab great not sure of the rest of the parts. Have recently been looking at parts and kinda leaning away from SE stuff . I think like this company they've gone out to where some people need to be. I think my compensator at this point still functions well after like 4000 plus kilometer I have recently gone by route of amsoil for the case . But I think it's time to shop and this video sure opened it up for me thanx
Had a 2009 ultra that I made a 103 with cams exshaust and tuner in ate the compensator.starter would miss at start up. With all the things you mentioned. I replaced with harleys latest version . I found it made noise but cured my problem. How I love to pay for harleys research and development.
I just swapped mine to the darkhorse. I wasn't having any problems yet but considering the damage the stock on can do it only made sense. Installation was simple even though the instructions could be better. Looking forward to summer so I can see if it's money well spent.
Wish I was close to Georgia, I have an 99evo softail heritage I’d love to have gone through. I’d love to pay someone like you to coach me through the wrench turnin because I really want to learn the ins and outs of this bike I plan on keeping it forever. Just found your channel but I’m subbin and binging.
My Man O-War Motorsprocket arrived today. First line in the instruction sheet is their recommendation to inspect for sprocket shaft run out. Luckily, .010 maximum is allowable (exhale).... Although I had planned on having my Total Indicated Runout determined.... I hadn't expected to add that cost to the Sprocket, new Rotor and throw in a Hayden Tensioner. But I'm really Jonesing over installing this revolutionary new compensator. I figure if the mechanic already has everything open and apart to check the run out; I might as well have him install the Man O-War Motorsprocket on his way back out. So, not installing it myself will be the silver lining. Actually I find wrenching very therapeutic. Update to follow soon.
Do those small, very stiff bushing cushion enough of the pulses? The Harley and Baker versions have a lot of give to “compensate”. Solid sprockets offer no compensation and the dark horse would seem to be a happy medium of the two designs but I’m a little skeptical that those small stiff bushings are effective enough to spend 500.00 over a piece I can spend 2-300.00. I’m genuinely asking and interested and not trying to talk crap about it. This comp is at the top of my list of comps that I do need to replace on my bike.
Hi Kevin thanks for all your info. Some shops are now producing their own heavy-duty comp ramps and claiming the Man O War comp can be overkill and putting unnecessary wear on the transmission components. I have a 150 hp M8 with 162 tq and I do not beat my bike at all, WOT on the highway and some fast gear changes occasionally. But no drag racing, dropping the clutch etc. What is your opinion? Thanks
I just upgraded to the updated SE Compensator. I wish i would have seen this video before I had my tech do the upgrade. I'm sure it'll be fine. I'm pretty sure I fried it at Rolling Thunder in 2019. Had clunking through 3rd gear when it was stupid hot. Found out my stator was also do for a change. 2010 Softail Deluxe with 22,000 miles. Everything seems fine so far. We shall see. I'll be chaniging to the Darkhorse Compensator if not.
Had a compensator failure on my 2008 FXDWG at about 21K. The primary [cough] symptom was a little different than others have mentioned. Hot starts had become troublesome, lots of grinding, lack of positive engagement. Replaced the stock unit with a H-D SE unit. This required a new rotor, naturally, and the addition of the plastic part in the inner primary to sling oil. Haven't had any problems since. The original compensator was pure crap! Editorial comment... H-D has a way of chasing the weaknesses around. They'll make a bigger motor with more power but ignore the downstream components until something gives. Then they'll fix that and push the problem to the next weakest link. In the case of the compensator in the late 2000s, they really should have made the SE part a stock item about three years before they did. Bonus question... How come whenever I look, I see so many M8s on the used lot if they're supposed to be so tits?
In contrast, not a Dyna in sight unless they're asking more than the original MSRP. .. Love that 17 Dyna FB in the garage. Emissions regulations are killing the industry.
I realize this comment is a year old, hoping you see it. I have had some rough hot starts too on an 09 fatboy 96ci. I'm leaning towards compensator being the problem but looking for more knowledge before spending the money. New issue I believe is what you say is "positive engagement", lately if I let out the throttle and then grab a bunch suddenly I feel and kind of can hear almost like a disconnect...a pause before a rough clunky engagement...is this what you're referring to by positive engagement and does this sound like a for sure compensator issue to you. Thanks in advance for any feedback!
They want to use up parts they have already purchased. They have been doing this 4ever. Plus, they don't want to shutdown the line. Have a friend who was UAW member, all auto manufacturers do it, also. Cheaper to have recalls/extended part warranties, than throw away parts and risk shutting down the line. It's B.S., unfortunately it's life.
Thanks for the video. Got 25k miles on a "99 TC 88. Stuck in gear and rocked the rear wheel. No clunk at all. The battery has 12.8v on it but CCA is not up to a hot start with the cams that are in it. Don't know if the later ignition module has a delay before firing, early TC has a cam sensor and just fires straight off with a decent battery. Take away what you like but voltage is only a partial indicator of battery health.
I self i stalled a Baker in my 2010 Superglide, but i think i would have gone with this if i knew about it first. It the same idea the all big power (yamaha/bmw) race bikes incorporate in their rear wheel. I've never had one wear out yet.
You took the words right out of my mouth Jimmy, i also resently installed a Baker compensator and adjuster, but now i see this. I don't know the price, but i think it's less expansive.
You took the time to make a video introducing a new product; Then spent about three seconds showing it.... Can not wait to see the video Darkhorse is working on. I think I'll hold off on installing the Baker Compensator I just bought, until I get a little more info on this Bad Boy. Thanks. New member
Not particularly...it was a follow up video to a 2 part 2 hour long live video where Darkhorse came to my shop and we discussed cranks and the motor sprocket in great detail. Take a minute and look back...I'm sure you'll find plenty of information.
@@KevinBaxter Did watch that 2 part video, thanks........ still not enough info in the Motorsprocket.... But Darkhorse is working on it. I edited my initial comment after watching that 2 part video.... Thanks much
Thank you sir...and thanks for supporting the channel! If you have any specific questions, I'll help any way i can. Andrew at DH is great to chat with as well.
Kevin I really like the dark horse simplicity and that it is not metal to metal . What is the hp or torque rating it can hold do you think the rubber will withstand high hp motors?
I think itll hold up extremely well. There are a couple details I cant mention but I will say this...I wouldnt hesitate to put it behind at least 175ft lbs.
Kevin, there are a couple of products that I am interested in. There are probably a lot of gimmicks out there however amongst the players there are probably some decent well formulated products. The two additives that appear to be beneficial are, BestLine engine additive and a new product from Hella developed by XG Sciences is Hella engine oil additive. Perry Anderson from BestLine maybe a good person to discuss their products with. Thanks Warrick
Hey, your videos have helped a ton, thank you! I installed the man-o-war, APM clutch, and Baker manual adjuster. When I was about to put type ‘f’ atf fluid in, Ben told me I need to be sure the compensater is also designed for type ‘f’ atf fluid. Ben did not have a recommendation and I did not find any info on Dark Horse regarding the lubricant. Do you have a recommendation or direction you can send me in regarding this?
Kevin, I have a 2006 Dyna Superglide. The Man O War sprocket says it will fit my application with added parts (2007 rotor and stator assembly). My question is will this increase the vibration and noise on an 88 ci engine. Have you had a chance to put one of these on a Dyna Superglide and if so how were the results?
I have a '83 FXSB. Belt primary with two piece compensator pulley that have the rubber bushings (4) Still works. No problems yet. No broken belts. Knock on something. LOL
Excelkent as usual, Kevin. A Fluidamper is still on my old shovel. The compensater bolt issues sure have kept my neighbor's shop busy over the years. Will this new compensator handle repeated wheelie launches on baggers that have been so popular to date on yo'tube? Also, on your crank video, what is the max rpm for revving a 117 underneath an overpass with the clutch pulled in?
LOL....funny. All signs point to yes at this stage. No failures yet. As for the max RPM...bang it off the rev limiter baby....then call a tow truck, then me. LOL
this is a great suggestion Warrick! Did you have any additives in mind specifically? I'm always up for trying new things or learning. Sometimes outcomes surprise me.
@@KevinBaxter BG oil additive MOA I've used it in automotive been debating whether to use it in my bike. I've had great experiences with their products
Hey, Kevin I am using an additive product called MoGlide in all 3 holes. Seems to be a good product. Could be just me and be snake oil, but I guess gives me extra piece of mind. Got to be less friction and wear If it’s more swippery right? Lol!
Kevin, I have a 2000 road king and the issue I had was the nut actually came loose on the compensator. I’ve replaced the compensator with a new aftermarket compensator but can’t seem to get the nut torqued tight enough to stay. Any thoughts?
clean the threads well, brake clean. use red loctite. follow the torque specs. if it wont stay after that, there may be a crank issue..worn spacer, etc.
Hello Kevin. I have a 2011 Street Glide with Twin Cam 103, which I had some modifications done to it. It has a Woods Performance 222 CAMS, ThunderMax ECM, D&D 2 into 2 exhaust system and S&S oil pump kit. The bike pulls very hard and power is always there when you need it. After about 800 miles of driving my 5th gear slips. I decided to go with ReKluse Apex Clutch kit and since everything will be taken out, I'm trying to change the stock compensator as well. Everybody has a different opinion on what to get but I've narrowed it down to Screaming Eagle, Baker, and Darkhorse Man O war compensator. What do you recommend for someone that does not do drag racing but at times likes to give it all in all gears. Your input is very much appreciated. The bike had 7000 miles on it when the upgrades were done and now with 7,800 miles the 5th gear slips.
Hello Kevin, your content is awesome thank you. What would be your preferred primary chain tensioner on a 2011 FXDWG, stage one tune only ? When my compensator shits it's self what should I replace it with ? thank you, kind regards Stevie.
The compensator evens out the piston hitting the primary every time the engine fires. Am I stating that right? How would that work for an engine mounted to a car transmission. Would you still need the compensator and if so how would that work or would you let the car transmission act as the compensator? I see these race cars with motorcycle motors and trikes that use car transmissions and have wondered how they marry the two. I’m interested in Harley big twin on a vw transaxle
Thanks for the info Kevin. Very well presented. I have a 2019 Street Glide with just over 6000 miles. Would you recommend changing the compensator this early and would this affect my Harley warranty, by changing it.
Kevin I was wondering if my compenstator could be the problem sometimes and not that often when cold starting my 2016 103HO Ultra Limited when starting it makes a load clunking sound so I let go of the starter button and then try again and she starts right up. When this happens every one looks at me and says WTF. 🙄 113,000 miles
3 years later, you still a believer in the dark horse comp even on high torque motors? I’ve seen horror stories of the bushings failing allowing that material to get into the clutch pack
I was watching a recent video from moonshine horsepower and they said the man o war is so strong basically every other part in your transmission will suffer. No compensator problem anymore but maybe clutch or clutch basket but the weakest link will suffer the consequences sort of speak. Any thoughts on that? I was thinking on getting one for my build but now I’m afraid it’ll turn into a new transmission too
How aggressive you are with your right hand and the clutch will more determine the longevity of your transmission, clutch, and basket than the motor sprocket will. They may not be aware of the fact, that the motor sprocket has been under development for many...many years. With many installs stacking up miles over those years. I have yet to see any data that would support a claim that a motor sprocket alone created or led to a transmission failure. If that were the case, even more extreme, you would hear the same information about solid front sprockets causing trans failures and many, many have installed those over the years. That said...it's my opinion, that after installing the DH sprocket, or a solid sprocket, if one experienced a trans failure, clutch or clutch basket...those components were already well on their way to failure.
I have a 117 build on my 2015 Rushmore and based on everything I’ve been reading I feel that the DH will suit my 62k mile bike. I don’t clutch dumb and only get on it from time to time so I think the DH will be a great addition to enhance the power delivery. I understand the theory about adding power in some parts finding weak links since I did a lot of drag racing in my mustang’s but manageable power that’s used for enjoyment “should “ be okay.
Kevin really appreciate your knowledge, facts not opinion. Just bought 94 RK for project bike and was thinking about BDL belt drive. Live in TX and it gets warm. My thought is to lose that extra metal and oil to help her run cooler and still have a good drive system.
Great vids and info... Just installed the Darkhorse sprocket, Barnett Scorpion & Hayden tensioner. I love it except its impossible to find neutral when the bike is stopped at idle. Any ideas?
Flyin Low - Please write a follow up once you've adjusted the clutch. I'm considering a Motorsprocket for my 2010 Heritage and would like to hear about your solution
Hi Kevin Your videos are very informative. I’m experiencing the wobble in my 2018 streetglide, do you have a fix for that ? I look for to hearing from you . John
Just wondering...on most of my old Harleys I had taller front sprockets made and ran them straight without a compensator...my Flattys, Pans and my Knuckle and didn't have issues. Now I have a 96" TwinCam, with about 50,000 miles on her and she's been marvelous. No big noises coming out of the primary but when she's hot she has a coughing/grindy noise emitting from the primary side and not instantly starting, but this happens only about half the time. What I'm wondering is, what would happen if I ran without a compensator? Thank you for your consideration.
Would this contribute to my noisy hot starts? I don't notice any shifting issues , knocking on shut down, or hard to find neutral. Only when I stop to get fuel or just restart after running for a bit it cranks then almost makes a kickback noise. Thanks! I'm learning alot from your videos sir.
Wonder if you if you were able to solve your starter kickback problem as mine does the same thing when hot. Thought I had eliminated it with a new battery but it 's started again. If I let the engine cool for 10 or 15 it starts fine. It's only when it"s running temp hot that it kicks back, like you said, after fueling the tank.
I installed S&S T111 in my 2003 carbureted Roadking, do I need to use the Darkhorse compensator or will my old style compensator I am using be fine? The Darkhorse man o war has 32 teeth my compensator has 25
My 2017 FXDLS had compensator failure with only 1000 miles on the motor. It sounded like marbles in the primary. It just had it's 1000 mile check up at the dealership. Got it home and started hearing a knocking in the primary. First trip back to the dealership they put a shim in my brand new motorcycles compensator. The fix lasted all of four hours. I brought it to another local dealership they put in new spring packs which has been good so far. Will this fit my 110? I want the screaming eagle comp out and the auto primary chain tensioner gone as well.
Awesome stuff here Mr Baxter,,,,can we get a 32 tooth for an M8 I have a S&S 475C cam , more of a Highway cam and I was thinking a 32 tooth would be a great combo for some lower end torque,,Thanks Mr B
Hi Paul. There are no immediate plans to make a 32 tooth for M8. It may come in the future however. The M8 gearing, and low end torque, is so much better than the 07 era twin cam, didnt think many people would need or want it. Have had a handful of requests. That is more of a mid range cam for sure.
I just installed the man-of-war comp. With scorpion clutch. It acts like it is wore out already with all the problems you suggest for a wore compensator. Any duggestions
Do they make a Man O War for Evo Engine? I ve replaced my compensator cover with the disc springs in it once &shimmer under the comp nut with one bronze bushing .It stopped slippage under heavy load.
I have a 08 fatboy and in 2015 went to sturgis and bike got hot. It was hotter than crap out and very busy with stopped traffic. I think this plays a part cause 8 months later the stator went out then the compensater at the end of 16 or beginning of 17. The mechanic was unsure what way they torqued it since there was a torque change on the nut around that time but as i couldn't prove they did it wrong or just a junk harley part. So i end up paying for it. So junk part or bad torque?
Nice compensator upgrade. Did a little homework and I found this out… “ **PLEASE NOTE** Touring models made in 2010 to 2010 1/2 have a rotor with an integral compensator spring cup. This rotor will need to be retrofitted with a HD part number 30041-08A late style rotor in order to use this product. “ My bff has a 2010 street glide how will he need this part as well? I have a 2012 fatboy low, do I have a 32 or 34 teeth set up?
I rebuilt my engine last winter and went with a solid compensating sprocket. I already had a Baker primary chain adjuster. Last summer I didn’t get out much for personal reasons but when I did, I had a lot of clutch slipping. Mostly when taking off hard in 1st gear.
This winter I upgraded to a Barnett Scorpion clutch and while I was in there, a Man O War compensator. I finally got out this Saturday and all I can say is Wow! Between the clutch and the smoothness of the compensator, it’s a whole new bike. No more clutch slippage. I was slipping more in second gear than I realized. First gear takes of hard and when I shift to second and hit the throttle, I’m gone. The sifts are butter smooth no more vibration at idol like the solid sprocket gave me. If you need a compensator, get the Man O War.
Kevin, I own an aftermarket shop and I enjoy your videos, very well done w/o the BS, you do a fine job.
Thank you very much sir.
What is the name of your aftermarket shop?
what brought you as an engineer, into the motorcycle field. your way ahead of most in the business, glad you are here.
i enjoy the technical aspects and challenges of it. its also very rewarding to hand someone back the motorcycle theyve dreamed of.
Your a good man sir:
You installed my Baker 3 years ago and no problems so far
Excellent
I went through 3 stock ones with motor upgrades I currently have. Switch to this product and haven’t had any issues.
I have an 05 FLHTPI with 236000 miles on it and still running original compensator, I am just about to replace it, have had no issues with it so far.
Old style upto 05 was the best 🙌
I had 135,000 miles on my 2003 Ultra and never had a problem with the compensator. Now my 2012 Ultra with 25,000 miles is needing replacement. Good job, Harley.
Thanks for videos and tips. I replaced the stock compensator on my 2012 ultra and absolutely impressed with how quiet and smooth the dark horse motor sprocket is.
I recently installed the Darkhorse Crankworks Motor Sprocket on my TC Ultra Limited....couldn't be happier. Great design, it's quiet, no more clunk, shifts like butter and is easy to find neutral with out all the clunking in and out trying to get there. Install is fairly simple and went smoothly. DHCW Motor Sprocket is a much better design than any compensator out there....
Just bought a 2013 street glide and brought it home to chain all fluids to amsoil. When i drained the primary seen green plastic peices in the drain pan. Pulley the cover and it has a manowar compensater the 4 bolts on the face were sheered off and floating around in the primary. Also is where all the green plastic was coming from
Reminds me of an old triumph t150 cush drive they were shit then and these are no better.
Bolts don’t float! Lol
Just took a tour of the motor sprocket shop. Awesome product and customer service.
I had the compensator clunking bad on my 2010 Roadglide at 15,000 miles. It would kickback and barely start when hot and made all sorts of racket. Not long it wore out the inner primary bearing and the whole primary had to come apart. We replaced with the SE compensator and a manual chain adjuster as the chain was too tight.
That solved all the primary problems, she runs like a dream now.
I just purchased the Man-O-War Compensator...can't wait to get my Bike back to experience the difference.....
Had my compensator grenade on my 2018 Roadglide Special at 35k miles. Harley covered it under warranty. It pretty much took out my entire primary.
Had mine replaced this summer at about 46,000 miles on a 2010 Road Glide, along with the stator. Thanks for the in-depth description.
always
My 2006 compensator failed at around 50,000 miles... the inner springs all where flat upon each other... I installed a BDL belt drive and no issues... BUT I say that to say this, using a solid sprocket up front instead of compensation sprocket with a belt drive one needs to learn how to use to avoid bucking... at low speeds it likes a lil higher rpm which I’ve learned to adjust to.
Great video and tech!
Thank you sir.
My 1973 Triumph Tiger (poor man's Harley) uses rubber pieces wedged in the clutch hub as a shock absorber.
I replaced the hub assembly last winter, because it was making noises. The bike has 62,000 miles.
The spider that holds the rubber pieces had almost wore thru the inner side plate of hub.
My point is the rubber lasted 62,000 miles & 47 years.
Dude I am totally digging the cafe racer in the background! I'm a little late since this video was posted and I'm sure that bike is complete by now. Looking good man and thanks for the good informational videos!
Good video Kevin. Stay well.
Likewise.
Newly installed Man O-War Motorsprocket (2010 Heritage Classic 11K miles) - Also installed with this new compensator was a Hayden M6 BT07 automatic primary chain tensioner. I had great expectations, but no idea exactly what I was going to get out of the Motorsprocket..... But I'd previously switched from standard, fixed position tensioner to a Hayden automatic in my 2003 Heritage; And knew what to expect. The Hayden smoothed out my shifting and made the power curve while running through the gears feel seamless.
As for the Motorsprocket; I didn't feel much during my brief test drive at the shop (Grove Cycle, El Cajon, CA). I trailered the bike, took it home and put on my hwy riding gear, determined to run the bike through it's paces and see what had really changed. I'm in San Diego; so we don't have highways.... we have Freeways; Which means that on a long, up hill on ramp we go from zero to 85 mph as fast as we can to "blend" into traffic. After several miles up and down the freeway and half a dozen on ramps..... Here's the best way I can describe what changed after installing the Man O-War Motorsprocket.
You know how you can FEEL when it's time to shift during acceleration? Maybe you're paying more attention to traffic than your tachometer; You're getting up to speed (oh you know) But you can always FEEL the familiar level of engine vibration that reminds you it's time to shift up to the next gear........ Well, all that was GONE! That "oh it's time to shift" vibration was gone. It felt like the engine could have cared less whether I up-shifted or not...... It just wanted to accelerate. Next my thoughts moved to "Oh, I better keep and eye on my tach... I don't want to Red Line my baby."
Now, as I drive around, I can't help but think how nice it is that I don't have those heavy, metal compensator parts Banging Against Each other....... nothing but bang free, rubber cushioned engine power headed to my rear tire. LOVE IT!!!!!
That is EXCELLENT news sir. Glad it worked out so well for you. Thank you for taking the time to write this up. I'll share it with DH and let them know as well.
@@KevinBaxter I posted the same write-up on their FB page and left a voice message for Andrew thanking him for answering my phone calls and questions leading up to the install. Another ride today... the bike is significantly faster.... Next item is that FP3 Tuner for Vance & Hinds; Little icing on the cake.
Oh... and it's Rick.... not "Sir"....LOL
You got it Rick :) Glad you reached out to them as well. Depending on future performance plans for the bike, I would recommend looking a little deeper into the tuning system you choose...keep options open i guess i should say ;)
NativeSD53 as far as the tuner goes , for what it is worth , I think you would be very happy if you looked heavily at the Dynojet Powervision Tuner my friend . It’s the best of the best for the fuel injected bikes hands down . Lots of tuners out there but only one Dynojet Powervision. Very happy that Hammer Prefomance Suggested this for my bike and engine build . Those guys now there stuff . Research the powervision and you’ll see why it’s great 👍 money well spent for your baby for sure
Before seeing your videos, I eliminated my compensator by replacing it with a solid sprocket. So far, I really like it. No more clunky noises from the compensator. I had two spring packs weaken on me. I don’t know, right now I’m happy with the solid sprocket.
glad it worked for you sir. its not for everyone but, thats why baskin robbins has 31 flavors right? its not wrong, just another way to skin the cat.
Hey man, recently purchased it. I tried ordering from you, something was wrong with site. I put it from man o war. Part of a list of things to be done soon. Great video Kevin.
I think the stock ones are pretty strong . When mine came through the primary cover it broke my ankle with ease.
@@biggbossman1130 that was on my 4th attempt to ride it home from modesto hd after they fixed the loose nut.the last time it came off it still had about 2" of the crank attached to it.i got the same ol answer.....oh we didn't cause that.took it to Livermore hd and they put a new crank in it in no time.
Really ? Faark n ouch
Thanks Kevin! Good to know. 👍 🇨🇦
Really like this one , add to my list of "stuff"
i have a 2013 Streetglide 103, im using Mobil 1 V Twin 20w50 in the primary, so far so good.
Thanks for the video. I just replaced the whole primary on my 2008 Road King. In my case the starter went bad. When I started researching starters it led me to the compensator. Anyone with a stock compensator with the 96 ci engine prior to 2010 should be planning to replace their compensator sooner rather than later.
In addition to the starter, my inner clutch hub splines were being ground up.
I ended up replacing everything but the primary chain.
Thanks for your videos.
Thanks for sharing
Did that solve your issue? I just went through a starter jackshaft and a few ring teeth are missing. I have the baker comp and six speed, although I don’t know how old it is. It’s noisy only when starting. Seems there’s a lot of kick back and clanking
i added one because of this video i saw a couple years ago....matched with an evolution clutch and i'm loving it.
I put a man-o-war compensator and hayen M8 BT07 prinary chain tensioner in my 2012 (103) road king classic and it is doing great.
Just ordered one today, I've heard nothing but good things about them.
Wow what a difference. My bike is much smoother and quieter. I wasn't aware of how much noise my stock compensator was making.
I don't really have any experience with the compensator but am about to get familiar with it.
THANX A MILLION FOR YOUR VIDEOS GREAT STUFF.
Ill yell that out.
I have performance mods doubling the power of my 1200 first repair the clutch I went with Barnett extra plate carbon - and took the route of ATF tranny fluid in the case it grab great not sure of the rest of the parts.
Have recently been looking at parts and kinda leaning away from SE stuff .
I think like this company they've gone out to where some people need to be.
I think my compensator at this point still functions well after like 4000 plus kilometer I have recently gone by route of amsoil for the case . But I think it's time to shop and this video sure opened it up for me thanx
thank you frank.
Had a 2009 ultra that I made a 103 with cams exshaust and tuner in ate the compensator.starter would miss at start up. With all the things you mentioned. I replaced with harleys latest version . I found it made noise but cured my problem. How I love to pay for harleys research and development.
I just swapped mine to the darkhorse. I wasn't having any problems yet but considering the damage the stock on can do it only made sense. Installation was simple even though the instructions could be better. Looking forward to summer so I can see if it's money well spent.
It's great that it is rebuildable. What kind of mileage can you expect out of it or number of years if you don't ride that much. Before rebuild.
I went to a compensator eliminator and it works fantastic
Thanks for making the complex understandable. Looks like another part for my build...
You bet
I used the dark Horse Compensator and was the best thing I every did . Thanks Kevin !!!
Wish I was close to Georgia, I have an 99evo softail heritage I’d love to have gone through. I’d love to pay someone like you to coach me through the wrench turnin because I really want to learn the ins and outs of this bike I plan on keeping it forever. Just found your channel but I’m subbin and binging.
Best thing I ever did for my Harley.
You sold it??? 😂😂
My Man O-War Motorsprocket arrived today. First line in the instruction sheet is their recommendation to inspect for sprocket shaft run out. Luckily, .010 maximum is allowable (exhale).... Although I had planned on having my Total Indicated Runout determined.... I hadn't expected to add that cost to the Sprocket, new Rotor and throw in a Hayden Tensioner. But I'm really Jonesing over installing this revolutionary new compensator.
I figure if the mechanic already has everything open and apart to check the run out; I might as well have him install the Man O-War Motorsprocket on his way back out. So, not installing it myself will be the silver lining. Actually I find wrenching very therapeutic.
Update to follow soon.
Thank you sir. Look forward to hearing more. Thanks for sharing.
Ordered mine from you today.
Thank you very much. I got the order and itll ship out today.
Do those small, very stiff bushing cushion enough of the pulses? The Harley and Baker versions have a lot of give to “compensate”. Solid sprockets offer no compensation and the dark horse would seem to be a happy medium of the two designs but I’m a little skeptical that those small stiff bushings are effective enough to spend 500.00 over a piece I can spend 2-300.00. I’m genuinely asking and interested and not trying to talk crap about it. This comp is at the top of my list of comps that I do need to replace on my bike.
Hi Kevin thanks for all your info. Some shops are now producing their own heavy-duty comp ramps and claiming the Man O War comp can be overkill and putting unnecessary wear on the transmission components. I have a 150 hp M8 with 162 tq and I do not beat my bike at all, WOT on the highway and some fast gear changes occasionally. But no drag racing, dropping the clutch etc. What is your opinion? Thanks
Sounds like the original setup in my 81 FXB. 4 big rubber blocks between the motor output shaft and the primary belt pulley...
Yeah I always thinking of that rubber compensator when I think about comps. Had one too.
I just upgraded to the updated SE Compensator. I wish i would have seen this video before I had my tech do the upgrade. I'm sure it'll be fine. I'm pretty sure I fried it at Rolling Thunder in 2019. Had clunking through 3rd gear when it was stupid hot. Found out my stator was also do for a change. 2010 Softail Deluxe with 22,000 miles. Everything seems fine so far. We shall see. I'll be chaniging to the Darkhorse Compensator if not.
Had a compensator failure on my 2008 FXDWG at about 21K. The primary [cough] symptom was a little different than others have mentioned. Hot starts had become troublesome, lots of grinding, lack of positive engagement. Replaced the stock unit with a H-D SE unit. This required a new rotor, naturally, and the addition of the plastic part in the inner primary to sling oil. Haven't had any problems since.
The original compensator was pure crap!
Editorial comment... H-D has a way of chasing the weaknesses around. They'll make a bigger motor with more power but ignore the downstream components until something gives. Then they'll fix that and push the problem to the next weakest link. In the case of the compensator in the late 2000s, they really should have made the SE part a stock item about three years before they did.
Bonus question... How come whenever I look, I see so many M8s on the used lot if they're supposed to be so tits?
In contrast, not a Dyna in sight unless they're asking more than the original MSRP. .. Love that 17 Dyna FB in the garage. Emissions regulations are killing the industry.
I realize this comment is a year old, hoping you see it. I have had some rough hot starts too on an 09 fatboy 96ci. I'm leaning towards compensator being the problem but looking for more knowledge before spending the money. New issue I believe is what you say is "positive engagement", lately if I let out the throttle and then grab a bunch suddenly I feel and kind of can hear almost like a disconnect...a pause before a rough clunky engagement...is this what you're referring to by positive engagement and does this sound like a for sure compensator issue to you. Thanks in advance for any feedback!
They want to use up parts they have already purchased. They have been doing this 4ever. Plus, they don't want to shutdown the line. Have a friend who was UAW member, all auto manufacturers do it, also. Cheaper to have recalls/extended part warranties, than throw away parts and risk shutting down the line. It's B.S., unfortunately it's life.
Thanks for the video. Got 25k miles on a "99 TC 88. Stuck in gear and rocked the rear wheel. No clunk at all. The battery has 12.8v on it but CCA is not up to a hot start with the cams that are in it. Don't know if the later ignition module has a delay before firing, early TC has a cam sensor and just fires straight off with a decent battery.
Take away what you like but voltage is only a partial indicator of battery health.
Thanks for the vid. This sealed the deal for me.
Glad I could help
I self i stalled a Baker in my 2010 Superglide, but i think i would have gone with this if i knew about it first. It the same idea the all big power (yamaha/bmw) race bikes incorporate in their rear wheel. I've never had one wear out yet.
You took the words right out of my mouth Jimmy, i also resently installed a Baker compensator and adjuster, but now i see this. I don't know the price, but i think it's less expansive.
Hey what do you expect for just $35,000 LOL
You took the time to make a video introducing a new product; Then spent about three seconds showing it.... Can not wait to see the video Darkhorse is working on. I think I'll hold off on installing the Baker Compensator I just bought, until I get a little more info on this Bad Boy. Thanks. New member
Not particularly...it was a follow up video to a 2 part 2 hour long live video where Darkhorse came to my shop and we discussed cranks and the motor sprocket in great detail. Take a minute and look back...I'm sure you'll find plenty of information.
@@KevinBaxter Did watch that 2 part video, thanks........ still not enough info in the Motorsprocket.... But Darkhorse is working on it. I edited my initial comment after watching that 2 part video.... Thanks much
Thank you sir...and thanks for supporting the channel! If you have any specific questions, I'll help any way i can. Andrew at DH is great to chat with as well.
Kevin I really like the dark horse simplicity and that it is not metal to metal . What is the hp or torque rating it can hold do you think the rubber will withstand high hp motors?
I think itll hold up extremely well. There are a couple details I cant mention but I will say this...I wouldnt hesitate to put it behind at least 175ft lbs.
Kevin Baxter thanks brother for the response much appreciated!
Great videos! Ive learned quite a bit. How often should you change the "rubber" bushings in the Man O War compensator? Thank you for your time
I own a 99 fatboy 80 evo. What compenator would you recommend? 86k stock so far
Kevin, there are a couple of products that I am interested in. There are probably a lot of gimmicks out there however amongst the players there are probably some decent well formulated products. The two additives that appear to be beneficial are, BestLine engine additive and a new product from Hella developed by XG Sciences is Hella engine oil additive. Perry Anderson from BestLine maybe a good person to discuss their products with. Thanks Warrick
Thanks Warrick. I'll reach out to them and see where it leads. Appreciate it sir!
Hey, your videos have helped a ton, thank you! I installed the man-o-war, APM clutch, and Baker manual adjuster. When I was about to put type ‘f’ atf fluid in, Ben told me I need to be sure the compensater is also designed for type ‘f’ atf fluid. Ben did not have a recommendation and I did not find any info on Dark Horse regarding the lubricant. Do you have a recommendation or direction you can send me in regarding this?
Kevin, I have a 2006 Dyna Superglide. The Man O War sprocket says it will fit my application with added parts (2007 rotor and stator assembly). My question is will this increase the vibration and noise on an 88 ci engine. Have you had a chance to put one of these on a Dyna Superglide and if so how were the results?
One more part on my rebuild list, and most likely on my stuff the blasted warranty list as well.
I have a '83 FXSB. Belt primary with two piece compensator pulley that have the rubber bushings (4) Still works. No problems yet. No broken belts. Knock on something. LOL
how about a belt drive system that is adsorbed though the belt from switching gears the front pulley is solid mounted
Thats the only way i personally would run a solid front sprocket...with a belt drive primary.
Excelkent as usual, Kevin. A Fluidamper is still on my old shovel. The compensater bolt issues sure have kept my neighbor's shop busy over the years. Will this new compensator handle repeated wheelie launches on baggers that have been so popular to date on yo'tube? Also, on your crank video, what is the max rpm for revving a 117 underneath an overpass with the clutch pulled in?
LOL....funny. All signs point to yes at this stage. No failures yet. As for the max RPM...bang it off the rev limiter baby....then call a tow truck, then me. LOL
@@KevinBaxter I think that I cut 'the grey wire.' No rev limiter. Take care Kevin.
Kevin, any chance you could do a report / study on oil additives to see if any have a long term benefit?
this is a great suggestion Warrick! Did you have any additives in mind specifically? I'm always up for trying new things or learning. Sometimes outcomes surprise me.
@@KevinBaxter STP oil additive, it's apparently a USA product
@@KevinBaxter BG oil additive MOA I've used it in automotive been debating whether to use it in my bike. I've had great experiences with their products
Hey, Kevin I am using an additive product called MoGlide in all 3 holes. Seems to be a good product. Could be just me and be snake oil, but I guess gives me extra piece of mind. Got to be less friction and wear If it’s more swippery right? Lol!
Motorkote
Great video Kevin
Thanks 👍
Will Darkhorse compensator work on 2000 B motor built to 106 ? Darkhorse did the crank. I'm going into this thing for 8th Time!!! If not what works?
Thank you I have a 2018 FXBRS, Little over 2000 miles on it and the compensator broke! So sad of H-D to put plastic in this assembly
hate you had the problem
Kevin, I have a 2000 road king and the issue I had was the nut actually came loose on the compensator. I’ve replaced the compensator with a new aftermarket compensator but can’t seem to get the nut torqued tight enough to stay. Any thoughts?
clean the threads well, brake clean. use red loctite. follow the torque specs. if it wont stay after that, there may be a crank issue..worn spacer, etc.
I heard that the bolt is to long and bottoms out,add a 70 thou washer to the bolt,saw it on u-tube
People always say you dump a lot of money into a Harley davidson, it is replacing bad design stock parts mostly.
Hello Kevin. I have a 2011 Street Glide with Twin Cam 103, which I had some modifications done to it. It has a Woods Performance 222 CAMS, ThunderMax ECM, D&D 2 into 2 exhaust system and S&S oil pump kit. The bike pulls very hard and power is always there when you need it. After about 800 miles of driving my 5th gear slips. I decided to go with ReKluse Apex Clutch kit and since everything will be taken out, I'm trying to change the stock compensator as well. Everybody has a different opinion on what to get but I've narrowed it down to Screaming Eagle, Baker, and Darkhorse Man O war compensator. What do you recommend for someone that does not do drag racing but at times likes to give it all in all gears. Your input is very much appreciated. The bike had 7000 miles on it when the upgrades were done and now with 7,800 miles the 5th gear slips.
Hello Kevin, your content is awesome thank you. What would be your preferred primary chain tensioner on a 2011 FXDWG, stage one tune only ? When my compensator shits it's self what should I replace it with ? thank you, kind regards Stevie.
What is the approximate lifespan of those rubber bushings? Thanks.
at this point, there are bikes out there with 30,000 miles on them with zero issues.
The compensator evens out the piston hitting the primary every time the engine fires. Am I stating that right? How would that work for an engine mounted to a car transmission. Would you still need the compensator and if so how would that work or would you let the car transmission act as the compensator? I see these race cars with motorcycle motors and trikes that use car transmissions and have wondered how they marry the two. I’m interested in Harley big twin on a vw transaxle
Thanks for the info Kevin. Very well presented. I have a 2019 Street Glide with just over 6000 miles. Would you recommend changing the compensator this early and would this affect my Harley warranty, by changing it.
Kevin I was wondering if my compenstator could be the problem sometimes and not that often when cold starting my 2016 103HO Ultra Limited when starting it makes a load clunking sound so I let go of the starter button and then try again and she starts right up. When this happens every one looks at me and says WTF. 🙄 113,000 miles
3 years later, you still a believer in the dark horse comp even on high torque motors? I’ve seen horror stories of the bushings failing allowing that material to get into the clutch pack
I have an S&S 124 I'm having problems finding neutral. Is less teeth or more teeth going to make a difference? It's in an 08 ultra classic.
I just bought my first Harley a sportster. Do they have these also?
Out of the Darkhorse and the Baker which one would you use as your compensator solution?
I was watching a recent video from moonshine horsepower and they said the man o war is so strong basically every other part in your transmission will suffer. No compensator problem anymore but maybe clutch or clutch basket but the weakest link will suffer the consequences sort of speak. Any thoughts on that? I was thinking on getting one for my build but now I’m afraid it’ll turn into a new transmission too
How aggressive you are with your right hand and the clutch will more determine the longevity of your transmission, clutch, and basket than the motor sprocket will. They may not be aware of the fact, that the motor sprocket has been under development for many...many years. With many installs stacking up miles over those years. I have yet to see any data that would support a claim that a motor sprocket alone created or led to a transmission failure. If that were the case, even more extreme, you would hear the same information about solid front sprockets causing trans failures and many, many have installed those over the years. That said...it's my opinion, that after installing the DH sprocket, or a solid sprocket, if one experienced a trans failure, clutch or clutch basket...those components were already well on their way to failure.
@@KevinBaxter thank you sir!
I have a 117 build on my 2015 Rushmore and based on everything I’ve been reading I feel that the DH will suit my 62k mile bike. I don’t clutch dumb and only get on it from time to time so I think the DH will be a great addition to enhance the power delivery. I understand the theory about adding power in some parts finding weak links since I did a lot of drag racing in my mustang’s but manageable power that’s used for enjoyment “should “ be okay.
Appreciated Kev!
Kevin really appreciate your knowledge, facts not opinion. Just bought 94 RK for project bike and was thinking about BDL belt drive. Live in TX and it gets warm. My thought is to lose that extra metal and oil to help her run cooler and still have a good drive system.
Great vids and info... Just installed the Darkhorse sprocket, Barnett Scorpion & Hayden tensioner. I love it except its impossible to find neutral when the bike is stopped at idle. Any ideas?
Thanks. Most likely clutch adjustment. Sounds like the clutch isn't opening up enough.
Flyin Low - Please write a follow up once you've adjusted the clutch. I'm considering a Motorsprocket for my 2010 Heritage and would like to hear about your solution
I have the same problem with stock 103 running or not running , so I end up just doing it with my hand...
Still like those Manowars? Guys have been griping a bit more about them
Seems you won't get an answer on that one. Seems many questions here are going unanswered
I did a compensator delete on my 2018 breakout and now it’s the noisiest flipping thing on my bike. Normal or something wrong?
Im not a fan of going that route...for that reason and others too many to comment on here.
Compensator delete will cause flywheels to shift sooner than later and eventually grenade the cam chest. Only works well on smaller motors.
So please educate me regarding this mod. Compensator delete is not same as Man o war compensator?
Hi Kevin
Your videos are very informative.
I’m experiencing the wobble in my 2018 streetglide, do you have a fix for that ?
I look for to hearing from you .
John
With something so simple you'd think Harley would have thought of that first only to get more money by charging the same for a less expensive part.
Yeah, makes you wonder eh!
Will this eliminate a hot engine starter kickback??
read info to DuVall will stay tune with fingers crossed!
Just wondering...on most of my old Harleys I had taller front sprockets made and ran them straight without a compensator...my Flattys, Pans and my Knuckle and didn't have issues.
Now I have a 96" TwinCam, with about 50,000 miles on her and she's been marvelous.
No big noises coming out of the primary but when she's hot she has a coughing/grindy noise emitting from the primary side and not instantly starting, but this happens only about half the time.
What I'm wondering is, what would happen if I ran without a compensator?
Thank you for your consideration.
Would this contribute to my noisy hot starts? I don't notice any shifting issues , knocking on shut down, or hard to find neutral. Only when I stop to get fuel or just restart after running for a bit it cranks then almost makes a kickback noise. Thanks! I'm learning alot from your videos sir.
Wonder if you if you were able to solve your starter kickback problem as mine does the same thing when hot. Thought I had eliminated it with a new battery but it 's started again. If I let the engine cool for 10 or 15 it starts fine. It's only when it"s running temp hot that it kicks back, like you said, after fueling the tank.
Question
I'm rebuilding a 73 flh. Is there a man o was compensator available for this year and make
I installed S&S T111 in my 2003 carbureted Roadking, do I need to use the Darkhorse compensator or will my old style compensator I am using be fine? The Darkhorse man o war has 32 teeth my compensator has 25
My 2017 FXDLS had compensator failure with only 1000 miles on the motor. It sounded like marbles in the primary. It just had it's 1000 mile check up at the dealership. Got it home and started hearing a knocking in the primary. First trip back to the dealership they put a shim in my brand new motorcycles compensator. The fix lasted all of four hours. I brought it to another local dealership they put in new spring packs which has been good so far. Will this fit my 110? I want the screaming eagle comp out and the auto primary chain tensioner gone as well.
Awesome stuff here Mr Baxter,,,,can we get a 32 tooth for an M8 I have a S&S 475C cam , more of a Highway cam and I was thinking a 32 tooth would be a great combo for some lower end torque,,Thanks Mr B
Hi Paul. There are no immediate plans to make a 32 tooth for M8. It may come in the future however. The M8 gearing, and low end torque, is so much better than the 07 era twin cam, didnt think many people would need or want it. Have had a handful of requests. That is more of a mid range cam for sure.
I just installed the man-of-war comp. With scorpion clutch. It acts like it is wore out already with all the problems you suggest for a wore compensator. Any duggestions
Just had one installed an it is noisy making a clunking noise at low idle at red lights, but goes away when you ride. Is that normal?
Do they make a Man O War for Evo Engine? I ve replaced my compensator cover with the disc springs in it once &shimmer under the comp nut with one bronze bushing .It stopped slippage under heavy load.
I have a 08 fatboy and in 2015 went to sturgis and bike got hot. It was hotter than crap out and very busy with stopped traffic. I think this plays a part cause 8 months later the stator went out then the compensater at the end of 16 or beginning of 17. The mechanic was unsure what way they torqued it since there was a torque change on the nut around that time but as i couldn't prove they did it wrong or just a junk harley part. So i end up paying for it. So junk part or bad torque?
Nice compensator upgrade. Did a little homework and I found this out… “ **PLEASE NOTE** Touring models made in 2010 to 2010 1/2 have a rotor with an integral compensator spring cup. This rotor will need to be retrofitted with a HD part number 30041-08A late style rotor in order to use this product. “ My bff has a 2010 street glide how will he need this part as well? I have a 2012 fatboy low, do I have a 32 or 34 teeth set up?
Does dark horse make a compensator to fit 2006 twin cams and earlier? Mine is a 2006 Road King Custom with 70,000 miles on it.
no sir...noone does. the stock ones were really good.
So what is the down fall on the early one? Dark Hoarse doesn’t offer a early style one? Thanks
Will this fit earlier evo 94 to 98 PRIMARY