Sorry this is going to ramble on a little bit. I had an emergency at work and I haven’t slept in 2 days, so bear with me. Future me here, yeah, I’m really loopy. If you read this whole post, congratulations! My wife has a 2015 MKC with three problems (I mean there are more problems {thanks Lincoln of Bloomington for this amazing certified used car that was apparently smoke free but smelled faintly of cigarette smoke for almost a year and also for the great detailing job where you missed a pen marks all over the white leather seats and a bunch of trash under the seats like a half eaten sucker and also for the golf ball sized dent on one of the rear driver side panels and the previous owner’s half assed touch up which you then half assed yourself and didn’t completely match/blend the paint but of course you didn’t want to have to repaint the whole panel; oh there’s also something weird with the heat/ac system but you can never seem to find it even when I bring the car in while it’s happening): 1) USB ports (in that spring loaded sliding door compartment just in front of the cup holders) will randomly stop working and the nav system will give an error saying something like “insert nav card.” Happens randomly and of course it never is when the dealership technicians are looking at it. They’ve said “just pull the fuse out and put it back in”, but they ghost us when we ask which fuse. I’m kind of leaning towards a connector being the problem, but really have no idea where to look or how to access them. Any ideas? 2) the lift gate is suddenly aligning differently and the very front lip of the door latch case (the black folded sheet metal piece that surrounds the latch on the gate door) now grazes the hook/hoop/metal thing that the latch locks onto that it will abort automatic opening and closing. I checked all of the bolts and fasteners and everything is tight and none of them appear to have been dislodged. Bumper is pristine and the car hasn’t been rear ended. I don’t think that anyone has run into it in a parking lot either. The only heavily jarring thing that I can think of that’s changed in the last 4-6 weeks is maybe the abundance and severity of potholes. They’re so bad here. I’ve seen residential streets where cars turn off of a 4 lane 45mph road and even before completing the turn they’re in the middle of double black diamond moguls. So many people are blowing their tires out, sometimes more than one at a time. I’d bet that more than 75% of cars in my area have seriously misaligned tires. Sorry, rambling. Any ideas on why the lift gate latch is suddenly impacting the other side and how I can fix it (without just taking a file to that latch cover and giving it a little bit of a lead in)? 3) it was really freaking cold (-10f or so) for a few days and one of the days my wife left her MKC out overnight. Also happened to be garbage day and she didn’t see that the guy moved the can part of the way down our driveway. Oh and we’ve gotten so much snow this winter that we had like 4 foot tall snow walls on both sides of the driveway so her backup sensor warning sound would go off every time she backed out of the driveway. Anyway, she barely tapped the garbage can, but because it was so freaking cold her driver side tail light cracked and a semi-circular (2.5” x 1”) section of the red colored plastic detached. The impact was so low energy that only the exterior plastic was damaged *but* the tail light, brake light and turn signal don’t work now. I haven’t pulled the light out to see if a connection was dislodged, but I’m pretty sure that there wasn’t any damage to the inside of the light other than a very small amount of condensation. Should I pull the gate inside panel off to look at the connectors or do these tail lights have some sort of sensor that know when the light has been breached and brick them?
I'm going to have to respond to your comment in multiple responses because you really left me a story here and I'm going to be honest with you I don't really have time to read all this but I'm going to I originally seen the question this morning and I avoided it all day because I knew it was going to take me forever to get through it and these are the types of things I try to stay away from because my time is limited so here we go This is a typical thing that happens with Fords and Lincolns it could be because the module needs an update or it's going bad it could be because the nav card that's in it is corrupt and you need a new one it could be a number of things to simply just has to be diagnosed I typically tell people if you can go through the computer the radio face and go into settings and then go into General and then perform with called a master reset it will wipe the system out and reset it sometimes that helps
As for your liftgate problem with it seeming that it's out of alignment it may just because one side you have a shock motor assembly it's the thicker one I think that's on the driver side and on the passenger side the other shock that attaches to the door is a gas piston shock with no motor and they both have to be good and once the gas piston shock starts to wear out and the motor has to do all the work which is the motor piston shot on the other side it causes the door to kind of catch or tilt or sag per se because the motorcycle is having to do all the work and the gas piston shock which is the helper shock is not helping it anymore and then it starts to basically sag and it's causing a little weird spots on your Striker where the latch assembly latches into
I have a 2015 Lincoln MKC. The rear hatch froze a couple of years ago. When we tried to open it, I believe we sprung the left side of the hatch. Now we have the dreaded gremlins. The rear latch keeps trying to latch even if the gate is open or closed. The module seems to be clicking and then the latch continues to turn. I ended up with a dead battery, stranded. They replaced both the arm struts, and the latch motor as they said it was burned out. Problem not solved. The motor continues to try to turn and latch. Do you think it is the module that is malfunctioning? The serial number on the module is PN: EJ7T - 14B673-AH. Can I replace this with a new one? or find one at a auto wreckers? I understand I maybe able to replace it with the newer version AK? And would I have to run a scan and refresh or should it just plug and play. Have spent thousands on this and no resolve. 3 Lincoln dealers and not fixed. thanks very much
I’m in UK with this same issue. Module was fried and draining battery. Module replaced and now the buttons/lock unlatches ok and the battery stays fine, but it still won’t push the gate up. (12v across the pins opens/closes the motor so I reckon its good)Does the module need programming to recognise its on an MKC? Lincoln/Ford in UK are not interested ine little bit, so I’m on my own. Any tips most welcome.
I have one as well that I decided to throw a module at, since I could watching everything on the scan tool act really weird. Voltage at the cinch motor would go from open to different voltages rapidly. My question is how to get the lift gate open, tried jumping the cinch motor, no luck. I believe this is not a power lift gate since there's no button on the dash or the key fob
Thank you for the video. I've got a little bit of a different problem - I have a manual liftgate on a 2015 MKC that won't open. It was "clicking" randomly for a while, and now is completely non functional. I have no idea how to get the door open and the local dealer is estimating a 700+ repair to diagnose and repair the issue. Can you help? How do I get the door open!? :) Thank you.
I am 16 and my parents gave me a Lincoln MKX. I just spent 200 dollars on a diagnostic and the dealership thinks it is the motor. Is it an easy replace? They tried charging me 900 but I found the part for 180. I don’t own a programmer and am very unfamiliar with technology. Do I just have to swap the motor and it will work or do I have to reprogram it?
Yes the motors on these are typically Plug and Play you just swap them out and replace them I actually have a video replacing if you look in the library trunk gate motor you'll see
can you explain how to remove the grommets the wires pass thru from the liftgate to the body. i am hving issues with pulling it off and don't want to break them. i have a 2020 Ford Edge.
You need a little pocket flat blade screwdriver so you can push the little relief tabs up underneath the base of the plastic where it snaps in where the rubber goes over the plastic insert it's really hard to get out
@Ford Boss Man, similar problem, 2015 MKC, my rear lift gate will not open at all, is there a way to open manually to inspect wiring, motor etc? It was making a humming noise before it totally wouldn't open. Thanks
There should be a little slot at the bottom of the door or a little light that you can remove the access the last open the door look at my Ford Edge rear hatch open video
Without these types of videos you people don't have any info on the DIY side of what it takes to fix it so while you're sitting here bi#$&ing and complaining this is not the reason why it's because we can't get parts so although you're probably just playing around and somewhat being serious remember to stay in your lane watch who you're talking to and if you enjoy this type of information and help shut your mouth and say thank you
I need you to break it down a little bit more for me and explain your situation a little bit better that's kind of vague and it's not going to take me in any kind of Direction that's not going to stress me out Explain the key situation in more detail completely separate from everything jumbled together Yes the liftgate match model can cause issues like you were saying but so can for instance the rear wiper being stuck in an upward position in that parking all the way there's a number of things
@@FordBossMe the liftgate works sometimes. But occasionally it will not open and after that happens the dash will show a liftgate ajar msg even though its closed. It seems like it tries to open but is almost as if the latch or lock isnt releasing. A few days after this happens the battery goes dead. The emergency key to open the car if battery is dead just does not work...as if it is the wrong key for the door. So when battery is dead theres no way in to the car to pop the hood to jump the car. Thank you very much
This is probably what is happening to mine. Lift gate won’t open anymore and for a while it was clicking even when the trunk was closed. I’m not sure if this is what is also draining my battery. I have a Lincoln MKC 2015. Any where you recommend I buy a module? Can I replace it myself or do all modules have to be programmed? Where can I go get it programmed?
Your a great tech brother I have a ? For you so the other day customer came in with a ford transit which had a failed TMPS sensors now the customer believes its a leak in the tire my tech identified the issue and the customer insist that it was a leaking tire
So if you have the Ford IDs software you can pull it up and see if it's actually acknowledging the tire sensor to see if it's actually bad If the tire light is on you can either run the codes and see if it is a circuit fault or if it is just low pressure and then reset the TPMS sensor with the tool and if the light goes away then you know it has nothing to do with the sensor was just low tire pressure but if it won't reset there is an issue with the TPMS sensor itself
@@FordBossMe unfortunately we are not a ford dealership but the customer purchase the ford transit at my Acura dealership and we access it with our tools and came too a understanding that the TPMS sensor has fail, from what we see on our end the customer feel there is more then just a fail sensor which then I had my tech check for any leaks and we didn’t find any leaks what do you in that situation do its not like you can call in corporate Acura and ask them how to resolve the issue have you ever come across a issue like this before if so could what are your recommendations I called a local ford dealer near us but they are tied down with there own customer issue
I just had my liftgate motor and module replaced at Ford and now my backup camera doesn't work. They claim it is coincidence and they don't go near the camera when replacing and its a bad camera now.. It was working perfectly before and now they want 600 to replace camera.
So my issue is that when I try to open the tailgate on my 2016 mkx, it opens partially with every remote click as you can see in this video. Any idea what is going on? photos.app.goo.gl/HYvbTdq4yU6axJjDA
So when you get the liftgate all the way at the top press and hold the button that closes it 10 seconds and let it relearn it's full open position and then try closing it again and opening it again
The button that closes it on the end of the liftgate not the key fob but the button from the liftgate if you read your owner's manual there's a section in there that talks about relearning the liftgate position and that is simply all the way at the full open position hold the close button down I think it's like 10 seconds then close the liftgate manually and then try to open it with your key fob again
Hello. Can you please send me or upload the video of part 1
It was on the library easy to find
ua-cam.com/video/fGVRmbd_eCg/v-deo.html
Sorry this is going to ramble on a little bit. I had an emergency at work and I haven’t slept in 2 days, so bear with me. Future me here, yeah, I’m really loopy. If you read this whole post, congratulations!
My wife has a 2015 MKC with three problems (I mean there are more problems {thanks Lincoln of Bloomington for this amazing certified used car that was apparently smoke free but smelled faintly of cigarette smoke for almost a year and also for the great detailing job where you missed a pen marks all over the white leather seats and a bunch of trash under the seats like a half eaten sucker and also for the golf ball sized dent on one of the rear driver side panels and the previous owner’s half assed touch up which you then half assed yourself and didn’t completely match/blend the paint but of course you didn’t want to have to repaint the whole panel; oh there’s also something weird with the heat/ac system but you can never seem to find it even when I bring the car in while it’s happening):
1) USB ports (in that spring loaded sliding door compartment just in front of the cup holders) will randomly stop working and the nav system will give an error saying something like “insert nav card.” Happens randomly and of course it never is when the dealership technicians are looking at it. They’ve said “just pull the fuse out and put it back in”, but they ghost us when we ask which fuse. I’m kind of leaning towards a connector being the problem, but really have no idea where to look or how to access them. Any ideas?
2) the lift gate is suddenly aligning differently and the very front lip of the door latch case (the black folded sheet metal piece that surrounds the latch on the gate door) now grazes the hook/hoop/metal thing that the latch locks onto that it will abort automatic opening and closing. I checked all of the bolts and fasteners and everything is tight and none of them appear to have been dislodged. Bumper is pristine and the car hasn’t been rear ended. I don’t think that anyone has run into it in a parking lot either. The only heavily jarring thing that I can think of that’s changed in the last 4-6 weeks is maybe the abundance and severity of potholes. They’re so bad here. I’ve seen residential streets where cars turn off of a 4 lane 45mph road and even before completing the turn they’re in the middle of double black diamond moguls. So many people are blowing their tires out, sometimes more than one at a time. I’d bet that more than 75% of cars in my area have seriously misaligned tires. Sorry, rambling. Any ideas on why the lift gate latch is suddenly impacting the other side and how I can fix it (without just taking a file to that latch cover and giving it a little bit of a lead in)?
3) it was really freaking cold (-10f or so) for a few days and one of the days my wife left her MKC out overnight. Also happened to be garbage day and she didn’t see that the guy moved the can part of the way down our driveway. Oh and we’ve gotten so much snow this winter that we had like 4 foot tall snow walls on both sides of the driveway so her backup sensor warning sound would go off every time she backed out of the driveway. Anyway, she barely tapped the garbage can, but because it was so freaking cold her driver side tail light cracked and a semi-circular (2.5” x 1”) section of the red colored plastic detached. The impact was so low energy that only the exterior plastic was damaged *but* the tail light, brake light and turn signal don’t work now. I haven’t pulled the light out to see if a connection was dislodged, but I’m pretty sure that there wasn’t any damage to the inside of the light other than a very small amount of condensation. Should I pull the gate inside panel off to look at the connectors or do these tail lights have some sort of sensor that know when the light has been breached and brick them?
I'm going to have to respond to your comment in multiple responses because you really left me a story here and I'm going to be honest with you I don't really have time to read all this but I'm going to I originally seen the question this morning and I avoided it all day because I knew it was going to take me forever to get through it and these are the types of things I try to stay away from because my time is limited so here we go
This is a typical thing that happens with Fords and Lincolns it could be because the module needs an update or it's going bad it could be because the nav card that's in it is corrupt and you need a new one it could be a number of things to simply just has to be diagnosed I typically tell people if you can go through the computer the radio face and go into settings and then go into General and then perform with called a master reset it will wipe the system out and reset it sometimes that helps
As for your liftgate problem with it seeming that it's out of alignment it may just because one side you have a shock motor assembly it's the thicker one I think that's on the driver side and on the passenger side the other shock that attaches to the door is a gas piston shock with no motor and they both have to be good and once the gas piston shock starts to wear out and the motor has to do all the work which is the motor piston shot on the other side it causes the door to kind of catch or tilt or sag per se because the motorcycle is having to do all the work and the gas piston shock which is the helper shock is not helping it anymore and then it starts to basically sag and it's causing a little weird spots on your Striker where the latch assembly latches into
Normally when you get any type of moisture inside the lights they are ruined at that point they have to be replaced
Just say no to meth
The sensor pads stopped me from opening the gate today I've never had that happen before
I have a 2015 Lincoln MKC. The rear hatch froze a couple of years ago. When we tried to open it, I believe we sprung the left side of the hatch. Now we have the dreaded gremlins. The rear latch keeps trying to latch even if the gate is open or closed. The module seems to be clicking and then the latch continues to turn. I ended up with a dead battery, stranded. They replaced both the arm struts, and the latch motor as they said it was burned out. Problem not solved. The motor continues to try to turn and latch. Do you think it is the module that is malfunctioning? The serial number on the module is PN: EJ7T - 14B673-AH. Can I replace this with a new one? or find one at a auto wreckers? I understand I maybe able to replace it with the newer version AK? And would I have to run a scan and refresh or should it just plug and play. Have spent thousands on this and no resolve. 3 Lincoln dealers and not fixed. thanks very much
I’m in UK with this same issue. Module was fried and draining battery. Module replaced and now the buttons/lock unlatches ok and the battery stays fine, but it still won’t push the gate up. (12v across the pins opens/closes the motor so I reckon its good)Does the module need programming to recognise its on an MKC? Lincoln/Ford in UK are not interested ine little bit, so I’m on my own. Any tips most welcome.
I am unable to find your Ford Edge videos. Having same issue with door not opening now. Same exact issues as others have stated.
ua-cam.com/video/hA9mGyDPrgI/v-deo.html
Thanks so much for getting back to me!!
Hod did you get the trim panel off I can’t seem to get the two fasteners by the handle out?
I have one as well that I decided to throw a module at, since I could watching everything on the scan tool act really weird. Voltage at the cinch motor would go from open to different voltages rapidly. My question is how to get the lift gate open, tried jumping the cinch motor, no luck. I believe this is not a power lift gate since there's no button on the dash or the key fob
There is manual access panel to pop and reach in with screw driver to trip the latch.
Thank you for the video. I've got a little bit of a different problem - I have a manual liftgate on a 2015 MKC that won't open. It was "clicking" randomly for a while, and now is completely non functional. I have no idea how to get the door open and the local dealer is estimating a 700+ repair to diagnose and repair the issue. Can you help? How do I get the door open!? :) Thank you.
Look at my Ford Edge lift gate video here and you'll see lots
I am 16 and my parents gave me a Lincoln MKX. I just spent 200 dollars on a diagnostic and the dealership thinks it is the motor. Is it an easy replace? They tried charging me 900 but I found the part for 180. I don’t own a programmer and am very unfamiliar with technology. Do I just have to swap the motor and it will work or do I have to reprogram it?
Yes the motors on these are typically Plug and Play you just swap them out and replace them I actually have a video replacing if you look in the library trunk gate motor you'll see
My liftgate opens, doesn't close. I had body work done on the rear. Worked as it should when I dropped it off. The body guy said he has no idea.
You'll need to get it to the dealer for propper diag or start replacing parts
Pull down motor shock to start....
can you explain how to remove the grommets the wires pass thru from the liftgate to the body. i am hving issues with pulling it off and don't want to break them. i have a 2020 Ford Edge.
You need a little pocket flat blade screwdriver so you can push the little relief tabs up underneath the base of the plastic where it snaps in where the rubber goes over the plastic insert it's really hard to get out
so there are push tabs in the front and back of the grommet?@@FordBossMe
@Ford Boss Man, similar problem, 2015 MKC, my rear lift gate will not open at all, is there a way to open manually to inspect wiring, motor etc? It was making a humming noise before it totally wouldn't open. Thanks
There should be a little slot at the bottom of the door or a little light that you can remove the access the last open the door look at my Ford Edge rear hatch open video
@@FordBossMe what software you used to recalibrate de module ? will the fjds will work for this ??
mine is having a hard time opening. it moves a couple inches but can't raise. I raise it manually and it shuts fine. Do you think its my shock/motor
It could be that the regular shock is wore out and the motor is having to do all the work and it just can't do it by itself
@@FordBossMe ill try that first. Seems like an easy swap to see if its the issue. Thank you
And this ladies and gentlemen is why it takes 7 weeks to get your car back from the dealer. They are too busy making videos 😂
Without these types of videos you people don't have any info on the DIY side of what it takes to fix it so while you're sitting here bi#$&ing and complaining this is not the reason why it's because we can't get parts so although you're probably just playing around and somewhat being serious remember to stay in your lane watch who you're talking to and if you enjoy this type of information and help shut your mouth and say thank you
Can the liftgate module failing cause a random dead battery and what do you do if your emergency key doesnt unlock your door? Thank you for your time.
I need you to break it down a little bit more for me and explain your situation a little bit better that's kind of vague and it's not going to take me in any kind of Direction that's not going to stress me out
Explain the key situation in more detail completely separate from everything jumbled together
Yes the liftgate match model can cause issues like you were saying but so can for instance the rear wiper being stuck in an upward position in that parking all the way there's a number of things
@@FordBossMe the liftgate works sometimes. But occasionally it will not open and after that happens the dash will show a liftgate ajar msg even though its closed. It seems like it tries to open but is almost as if the latch or lock isnt releasing. A few days after this happens the battery goes dead.
The emergency key to open the car if battery is dead just does not work...as if it is the wrong key for the door.
So when battery is dead theres no way in to the car to pop the hood to jump the car.
Thank you very much
@@lastOFtheBOHEMIANS may be module like suspect or left gate shock motor
This is probably what is happening to mine. Lift gate won’t open anymore and for a while it was clicking even when the trunk was closed. I’m not sure if this is what is also draining my battery. I have a Lincoln MKC 2015. Any where you recommend I buy a module? Can I replace it myself or do all modules have to be programmed? Where can I go get it programmed?
You have to buy a module and and then have it installed and dealer or somebody with Ford software has to program it
@@FordBossMe thanks for the response. I’ll look at a junkyard first
Quick question: If I replace the module do I have to upload software to it? or will the vehicle do it automatically?.
You have to have it programmed some people get lucky and the vehicle works fine without the programming sometimes it needs it
@@FordBossMe Thank you for answering so quickly. Ugh... I don't know how to program it per se. how would I go about that?
Unlock tailgate 2016 Lincoln mkx
Your a great tech brother I have a ? For you so the other day customer came in with a ford transit which had a failed TMPS sensors now the customer believes its a leak in the tire my tech identified the issue and the customer insist that it was a leaking tire
So if you have the Ford IDs software you can pull it up and see if it's actually acknowledging the tire sensor to see if it's actually bad
If the tire light is on you can either run the codes and see if it is a circuit fault or if it is just low pressure and then reset the TPMS sensor with the tool and if the light goes away then you know it has nothing to do with the sensor was just low tire pressure but if it won't reset there is an issue with the TPMS sensor itself
@@FordBossMe unfortunately we are not a ford dealership but the customer purchase the ford transit at my Acura dealership and we access it with our tools and came too a understanding that the TPMS sensor has fail, from what we see on our end the customer feel there is more then just a fail sensor which then I had my tech check for any leaks and we didn’t find any leaks what do you in that situation do its not like you can call in corporate Acura and ask them how to resolve the issue have you ever come across a issue like this before if so could what are your recommendations I called a local ford dealer near us but they are tied down with there own customer issue
I just had my liftgate motor and module replaced at Ford and now my backup camera doesn't work. They claim it is coincidence and they don't go near the camera when replacing and its a bad camera now.. It was working perfectly before and now they want 600 to replace camera.
Follow my procedure take the rear panel and stuff off and inspect the camera connection you can do it
So my issue is that when I try to open the tailgate on my 2016 mkx, it opens partially with every remote click as you can see in this video. Any idea what is going on? photos.app.goo.gl/HYvbTdq4yU6axJjDA
So when you get the liftgate all the way at the top press and hold the button that closes it 10 seconds and let it relearn it's full open position and then try closing it again and opening it again
The button that closes it on the end of the liftgate not the key fob but the button from the liftgate if you read your owner's manual there's a section in there that talks about relearning the liftgate position and that is simply all the way at the full open position hold the close button down I think it's like 10 seconds then close the liftgate manually and then try to open it with your key fob again
I have the same problem as you. Did you find a solution? Thanks