Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
How to Hone Engine Cylinders The Right Way
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 сер 2024
- Learn more here: bit.ly/2Yly809
---------
Supercheap Auto Website: bit.ly/1FpfKkw NZ: bit.ly/2rK6Lg5
UA-cam Channel: bit.ly/2sjZ92q
Like us on Facebook: bit.ly/1Ry7HuN
Supercheap Auto Blog: bit.ly/2UuYUxb
---------
Watch our latest and greatest television ads, Check out our how to videos, product videos or learn how to check it!
They rarely tell you how important it is to get the cylinder spotlessly clean. I was told that by a company 20 years ago and you the first person on UA-cam to say the same. Very detailed video,
Good information. What will happen if inner cylinder becomes rough?
Thanks.
@@cck1496 no compression and rapid wear of the rings.
@@SoddingaboutSi Thanks for your prompt reply. Keep it up.
I'm over in the US doing my first engine rebuild at home. I'm so grateful for your channel. Thanks for explaining it so thoroughly.
❤❤
How did the rebuild go? I'm starting one for a single cylinder dirtbike, and I'm rather scared to start.
There is also a bottle brush hone which, I suspect, does not remove as much material. That would be my concern here, you remove metal and tolerances then go out of spec....then you end up overboring, say 30 thosuands with over size piston or you end up sleeving the cylinder(s). How did your project go ? I am in the beginning steps right now, - greasy mess on the engine stand, and mess on the floor ! So annoying, I like things clean.
What do you guys use to check for size,taper degree of angle and micro finish?
Excellent video!
Thank you
Very nice bro 😀
Good day sir
Sir how we measure cross hatch pattern of cylinder and how we know that it is a right cross hatch pattern
If you hone too much you will increase bore diametre, causing piston slap and bigger ring gaps.
Buddy at the machine shop said roughly for every 16 strokes you can remove up to .001, so not a big deal. The main thing is to check with dial bore gauge and when satisfied with all cylinders, that they be cleaned thoroughly to remove any abrasives left by honing process so rings seat and last for many years.
These DIY gadgets just deglaze, they dont hone.
Nice video! I have a question if you hone the cilinder a little bit , you need to put bigger ring or if its in the oem specification you can put oem rings?
Best to refer the to workshop manual for the cylinder bore size and piston ring tolerances and work within the spec required.
If you can easily remove a piston and ridge reeming isn't necessary, then no. However, if the bore is oversized you'll need to bore the block and get oversized pistons with matching rings. Never use just oversized rings, and if ridge reeming is neccesary, then the bores are out of round and no ring will seal. If you can't hone a bore in a timely manner, then the bore needs bored out oversized, cause by then you've removed to much for standard rings to seal.
How to buy this in indiaa
Can I use standard size rings after doing a ball hone?
no
hey please i have a question on bloc engine its marked the bore cylinder class , for example "abac" can i use piston classe "B 71.98" if the cylinder classe "a 72.00" is worn but still in the limit of classe b lets say 72.02" ? the mix is possible ? cause the workshop says that if classe "a" exced the limit , rebore the cylinder 0.1 and use oversize 0.1 piston
Cylinder "A" 72,00-72.01 /// Piston "A" 71,965-71,97
Cylinder "B" 72.01-72.02 /// Piston "B" 71,97-71,98
Cylinder "C" 72.02-72.03 /// Piston "C" 71,98-71,99
over size cylinder "A" 72.10-72.11 /// over size piston "A" 72,065-72,07
over size cylinder "B" 72.11-72.12 /// over size piston "B" 72,07-72,08
over size cylinder "C" 72.12-72.13 /// over size piston "C" 72,08-72,09
Good
my mate just hones he engine with 220 sandpaper by hand and uses oilve oil lube.And his cars go like new .
This isn't honing and the tool isn't a true hone. This is glaze breaking with a glaze breaking flex-hone. The required crosshatch is the same whether using a rigid hone or glaze breaker.
One other consideration is the type of rings to be installed. Different types of rings require a different surface finish and may require a finer grit stone.
Check the out-of-round and taper before doing this procedure to be sure they are within acceptable tolerances since glaze breaking doesn't straighten a cylinder. Too much of either will require boring the block unless the cylinder can be straightened with a rigid hone and stay within piston clearance spec.
Of course, if you are just looking to get an engine together and running, and don't care about long life or maximum power, just about any re-ring job will work. I've seen scratched and tapered cylinders running well in street class stockcars and on the street with only minimal oil usage, maybe a quart per thousand miles, and no blue smoke.
When cleaning the block, have a can of WD40 ready and spray the cylinders before drying. If you dry the cylinders, you will get instant light surface rust. When assembling, wipe the cylinder with a clean, lint-free rag and lacquer thinner, then immediately coat with clean oil. Lacquer thinner removes all WD and any remaining grit but leaves no residue.
Those are 220 grit stones. Way to coarse. Use a 320 - 400 ball hone and never hone so long to remove material. All you are doing is removing glaze and put a cross hatch (30- 45 deg.) for proper ring break in.
If my outboard honda motor (4 cylinder) based of a honda accord had a cracked head and water was seeping in. Should I hone it or just clean it with one of those kitchen green scrubbers?
CSJiGSaW first clean bro 2 weld it shut and thoroughly grind but not too much then hone or replace and hone head itself less money and problems
If you knew anything you would be telling him he needs a machine shop, not a DIY deglazing.
@@soldozer Ive owned a machine shop sense 1973
may I ask who is the man that is speaking on it ? the voice
Thanks for posting, I'm thinking of just refreshing a 2.0 pinto eng by just doing rings and Bearings on my own on the cheap, don't want to get shops involved at all. looking over videos of what's needed, I've always been a car guy wrenching on everything I have, I've just never rebuilt an eng on my own.
That car is a fire hazard
@@YeOldeGeezer That was a witch hunt,
i think the mod you should be more focused on is probably *relocating the fuel tank* because if that thing gets rear-ended you're going up like a frying pan in a gourmet restaurant
@@egg9469 That was a witch hunt, But all 3 of my Pintos have the Gas tank recall upgraded parts
@@egg9469 🤣🤣🤣
How to created a mosquito machine 101!!! Lol
You can buy 1 size of rings and file the end gap to fit. Piston skirts can be knurled. This will give some milage with out breaking the bank. Not recommended if you are going to drive 15K a year but ok for rarely driven antique or classic car.
I've used one of these honing tools..and although impressive and capable, they don't last. I used one with 4" stones and barely got one use out of it...one cylinder of only 80mm. I had no idea the stones would go down so quickly. I used oil as well..
Ź
$30 well spent.
I have a 1980 tt 250 yamaha. Bore an stroke is 75x 56.5mm. Should I get a 3 1/4 hone or a 3 1/2 ball hone
Ball hone makes a bad finish and its not consistent with the diameter
Approximately how many mm do you stretch when you hone a cylinder?
No mm
Do you have to put oversized piston after this?
Not if the cylinders are still within spec
Can you use this to install sleeves?
How are you gonna sleeve a block with a drill and honing gizmo?
Here's the significant part of Lake Speed Jr.'s replying about my motor which only has 30K miles. You'll see that he doesn't want to take any more material out of the bore than necessary, and the second grit is only used for 1 or 2 strokes.
Lake Speed Jr.
The refinishing process only takes out .0002. We’d recommend hitting the bores with a 280 grit for a few strokes and then brush with 400 for 1 to 2 strokes.
What if you just use the medium grit stones and put the pistons in? With it be fine?
@@danielroy8411 Sorry for a delayed response. The medium grit cuts the troughs into the bore that hold the oil. The finer grip smooths out the top of the troughs. If you don't use the finer grit, the rings will end up smoothing the tops of the troughs which in the long term will give you approximately the same result. If you use the finer grit stone there will be less wear on the piston rings.
How much is this tool and where do i buy it
Supercheap auto parts in Australia & Walmart in USA
Instead of oil i use kerosene or wd40 oil is too thick.
Being a machinists/ Horner those spring loaded and ball hones suck only good to get a quick crosshatch
Yup. They're deglazers not hones.
looks like that block needs more than a light hone mate.
you aint lying,
I came here looking how to get my ride home supercheap just in case I was broke in the outback. That didn't come out right but you know what I meant. They can't be serious...those walls looked worse afterwards and the "crosshatching" made my eyes crosshatch. Always have this work done by a machine shop.
If my outboard honda motor (4 cylinder) based of a honda accord had a cracked head and water was seeping in. Should I hone it or just clean it with one of those kitchen green scrubbers?
those scratches are meant to happen they will disappear in no time what we want is we want to remove big and deep scratches with this if you dont have a damaged cylinder you should not do this
The drill in the bucket gave me anxiety, great vid 👌 thx tho
Why? Drills are used to mix up many things for example paint. Atleast battery ones.
Why? Drills are used to mix up many things for example paint. Atleast battery ones.
@@fraided88 you answered your own question with last part of your statement captain obvious
Stones are reffered to grit size 240-320-400etc Optional stones should be available .
Using oil with large amounts of friction modifier eg engine oil is NOT recommended . Using common available suto trans fluid is ideal or WD40 etc
1st identify the cyl bores cast iron or Nika Sil
2nd identify what the OEM cross hatch pattern is 35--45--44 degree ??
3rd remove cylinder ridge
4th measure cylinder bore taper and outta round / ovality
5th ALWAYS HAVE ENGINE PROFESSIONALLY MACHINE HONED IN A dedicated machine
5a if the measurements are even on the max limit for wear a machine hone is recommended to achieve max life remaining life
5b the more the measurements are over the wear tolerance the rehone will have a very short life span
3c excessive cyl bore wear will have oil consumption problems
Left out the step where you bore out those worn cylinder walls.
Its good enough for a cage
You will only rebore if the bore is too worn or out of round and requires a oversized piston. If the bore is ok with existing piston a hone will be ok for new rings. Either way you need a bore gauge to measure this and they are usually around $300 minimum for anything decent. This is backyard slap it together zone. No decent engine will be done this way.
I also didn't see a torque plate being used.
@@dirkadirka5395 not required on that type of engine, if it was a harley davidson then yes one would be needed
@@blacksheep6888 Why not for the 4 cylinder?
This tool is good for getting out the high spots in the bore, after using this run the tool that has multiple stones that looks like a toilet brush to give you the cross hatch pattern
I didn't find a ball hone for the diameter of my cylinders, so I only had this tool to do this.
And to my big surprise, the crosshatch pattern was absolutely perfect!
But it was a difficult task to get it right, you have to choose the right drill speed and stroke that shit fast!
It's a good video , but it leaves out - ridges at top ! Best to have a pump POOR a constant stream of HONING oil onto one side of bore to keep all the grit and metal suspended and off the surface , as well as how to set up a visual or mechanical stop so you can hone to max depth of bore , top is easy to see . Drill speed should be pretty slow to , You NEED a variable speed drill with a straight woble free chuck to. Lastly you need a bore gauge to accurately check taper and straighnes . Best to use cast iron rings in a garage honed cylinder regardless , it CAN be done by hand very well but it is actually alot more in depth to do it the best possible way even at home . Happy honing to all .
Yea machine shop here i come🤣
Use a ridge removing tool first from Australia
@@arthurdunn3007 These youtube honing videos are a joke for the most part. They should be called how to polish your cylinders . The ball hones really make me cringe . No one ever uses a sunnen hand/ manual hone tool either wich is 5 times better than the flim flam wobble sticks everyone seems to fall for . The cheap ones can work pretty good / good enough if used properly . 9 out of 10 don't though wich is why better than half of the budget rebuilds even smell horible going down the road . A good running rebuilt no emisions controle engine wont stink like an oil fire in the least when built and tuned properly .
Authur Dunn
Is that a 3sgte toyota motor? Im actually rebuilding mine now
I hope you're not following the directions from this video
I know these motors inside out and it's definitely a Toyota 5SFE
@@viperfukgoogplus386 whats wrong with the videos instructions
Hone and bore engine block not the same. Two different work and meaning.
Way to fast. You're looking for 45 degrees on the cross hatch pattern. Those are almost horizontal
You should be able to read thumbs down comments.
Don't know why people use oil to hone, the oil traps particals and embeds them. A water hose with a constant fine stream does much better. It washes the particals away from the cylinder and the honer while honing. It's not like the cylinder gets hot from honing, so there's no need for oil. I know some will disagree with this, but if you've ever tried it you'd find out it works well.
You are absolutely correct sir. I’ve only ever done coarse stones this way. The only way to do it I think. Save the oil for the last .001 if you need to
I am sure mostly any fluid would work, I know some guys who like using WD40 and some who like using transmission fluid. depends on your personal preference and it makes me wonder what you could get away with.
If my outboard honda motor (4 cylinder) based of a honda accord had a cracked head and water was seeping in. Should I hone it or just clean it with one of those kitchen green scrubbers?
@@CSJiGSaW08 once a piston is pulled it's imperative to use new rings, doesn't matter if low miles or not, which then requires honing the cylinders. You need that cross hatch pattern for new rings to seat properly, and honing is the only way to get that. Cylinders must be honed as good as possible, otherwise that thing will use oil and rings will NOT seal and no amount of engine break in period will do it either. If you don't plan on pulling the pistons, don't mess with the cylinders other than maybe spraying and wiping it down with a "light" solvent. Don't use abrasives on cylinders if your not pulling the pistons out, you'll mess up the ring pattern. Each set of rings creates their own wear patterns.
@@garyr7027 Got it, makes sense. Right now its top dead center on piston 1. Both piston 1 and 4 are to the top of the block. Cylinders 2 and 3 are down at the bottom of the bore. 2 and 3 were the ones of concern since the I found the head was cracked on both 2 and 3 near the water galleys. I didn't see any large scratch or irregularity, only that down the bore at the edge of cylinder head, i noticed some white powder residue kind of line salt buildup with the oil. I think it was when removing the head some of it got down there, but any ways a good engine flush should be good if any salt and water is mixed inside. I have not rotated it because i'm not an expert on timing of the engine and afraid of messing up the timing. Not sure if I should just clean bores 2 and 3 and forget cleaning 1 and 4. Either way they were 150 PSI compression and 2 and 3 where giving almost 0 PSI due to the cracked head. I heard marvel mystery oil is really good for the head and cylinder areas to clean and preserve lubrication or should I just use WD40?. Is the Scotch Brite too abrasive to clean inside the bore?
you have got to be kidding me
I just did this and used WD40 prayed on the stones and in the bore and spin in a bucket of warm/hot soapy water each 16, 45degree angle up and down in the bore. Washing and spraying WD40 each time. Then i did 15 with the drill in reverse. Not sure if supposed to go in reverse but that’s what i did. I didn’t take the big cam out either. Just did a hone and will put new piston and rings standard size. 1HZ. I did a light test at night dark with one top ring in the piston only and manually moved the piston up and down in each barrel, couldn’t see one bit of light other then the ring gap. First go at this hopefully that’s enough?!
Disassembly is critical as the waste material resulting from the glaze cannot contaminate any assembly component whatsoever. Although a thorough clean afterwards can shape up the process, initial prevention of a bigger mess should always be considered first. Saves time and reduces the likelihood of waste material comprising the nature of new bearings, components etc.
Shouldn't have the ring ridge. Back to the machine shop.
@Flash Man when I did engines, easy stuff in the early 70s, we always bored them out to receive first oversize pistons. Most honing was done by the machine shop. I did hone a few that had no ridge. Usually measured out ok for stock rings. But most of my honing was done on dirt bikes. I turned to using the phones with the balls on the ends of wire. Also did brake cylinders. But engines were done by the pros. Later on by the early 80s it was buying rebuilt engines straight from the factory. Cost didnt pay to do it ourselves any longer.
I thought the name of this video was hone cylinders the right way.
This is not the right way.
You need a rigid hone - IE a Sunnen hone, that keeps consistent pressure evenly and will correct any imperfections in the bore.
All you have demonstrated is how to scratch a cylinder
Wire brush on a engine block ? Really ? That’s some amateur shit
The right way is in a machine not by hand
Ball hones also work well
Yeah you can not see the wear in your cyl's. Like out of round ?
Ball hone is terrible.
For a rering job at home you are better off using a ball hone or it can be called a flex hone. Those 3 legged things can do more damage then good. I have rebored possibly thousands of cyl blocks and have seen backyarders damage cyls using those 3 legged things.
On the other hand, if the cylinder walls are uneven and 'waffled' the balls will follow the contours. Long flat stones are the best choice when the cylinder conditions are unknown. The ball hones are better when the block has been re-bored or sleeved and you know the sides of the cylinder are parralel and straight.
@@coolhand1964 You are obviously not a qualified engine reconditioner or you would know that after an engine has been bored you need to hone out around 004" to make sure all the tool marks are removed and a ball hone will not remove anywhere near that much material. A proper hone needs to be used such as a sunnen using multiple grades of stones not some 3 legged bargain basement tool.
@@grantreid8583 You will find plenty of engine reconditioners on YT who concur with my opinion. I am referring to a re-ring job at home, not a full reborn, same as you. Which I have done with vintage motorcycle cylinders many times. There are quality 3 stone hones available, you're the person talking Harbour Freight, not me. My motorcycles have been going strong for 20 yrs, have not glazed, have not started to burn oil and you have Buckley's chances of kicking it through top dead centre when the engine is hot and tolerances are at their minimum. There are plenty of horror stories on YT also about what so called qualified engine reconditioners have done. Some I've met over the years were dumb as dog shit and I wouldn't cross the street to cuss them, given some of the work I have been handed. I have also had parts lost or damaged that were 75 yrs old or more and known as unobtanium by so called professionals. I have worked with mechanical engineers who were geniuses over the years, that's where my skills and knowledge have come from. If a cylinder is badly corroded, water damaged, lost a gudgeon circlip and deeply scored a bore, I'll send it off for a re-bore WITH the piston to be fitted, so that it is bored and honed, to the correct .004-.005" tolerance, relative to the piston (air cooled cylinder). Using a boring machine and a Sunnen hone or similar to do the work. I was responding to your comment, best you go read it again. Rather than accuse me of being ill-informed.
The bore was still stuffed lol
Good enough for a cage, seen a lot worse rebuilt and okay.
LOL makes a video "How to Hone Engine Cylinders The Right Way" And does it wrong.....!
This is why you do research and not cause you saw it on UA-cam.
That is not a hone. It is called a glaze breaker. It would be far to slow and not accurate to hone a cylinder to be true
That's the same type cylinder hone they have used for many decades before these new fangled ball hones came out
@@glengillham4629 to rebore a cylinder with a rigid machining boring tool is an entirely different process then simply honing a cylinder, breaking the glaze, and preparing it for new rings. They can call a Boring tool a "hone" all they want to nowadays, it does not make them the same thing.
this is definitely a hone, its just not going to give straight and perfect results like a machine shop rigid hone would... its absolutely fine for cleaning up cylinders, if they fall within spec there is absolutely nothing wrong with this kind of hone.
Let's just say... hypothetically... for a friend... if a person ran their 2 stroke without a working oil pump and scored their cylinder walls but the pistons themselves are fine because they only ran it 3 times for heat cycles.. (again this is definitely hypothetically) they could use this and keep the same pistons in from the rebuild they just spent 5 grand on and not have to buy a new cylinder or will this only work for deglazing
Depends how bad the scoring is. But almost all scoring is irreparable by honing, the exception would be when it doesn't catch your fingernail. So basically yeah only deglazing. Probably going to have to start over on the top end as the cylinder might need machining, therefore, your pistons and rings won't match up.
@LifeofAedan tried honing it out and it didn't work, I brought them to a machine shop, hoping they'll get it done, just gonna be looking at ass loads of labour charges but guess that what happens, damn
@@user-gw6js6fc4i yep unfortunately that’s always the hard part is damn machine shops charging a boat load. If you can find yourself one ran by older folks they always seem to be a lot better. For example when I rebuilt my duramax the diesel shop wanted to charge $500 to machine the heads. Brought it over to this little shop connected to an advance auto and got them done for $50 a head. Back in the day when your auto part stores did more than just sell stuff. Pretty cool, but there’s barely any around nowadays.
The right way? Where's the torque plate for the top of the block?
Not required on this type of engine
@@blacksheep6888 Curious as to why? Thnx
@@dirkadirka5395 its cast iron simple, I am a qualified mechanic worked in engine reconditioning shop.
@@blacksheep6888 OK cool but when would you use a torque plate then?Thnx
@@dirkadirka5395 some aluminium blocks and motorcycle barrels
Too bad you don't have replacement stones for your hones , you have to buy a whole new honer.
Use transmision oil not motor oil
Not possible to do a DIY hone. You need a machine shop.
Im confused about how this works. Im restoring a vintage briggs 3.5hp engine and it requires .020 clearance so how would the piston fit if i bore it and hone it?
Blackbeard 007 the hone tool just makes a crosshatch pattern to help lubrication while it is running....it’s not made to bore a motor
The finish looks like shit.
And you really have some bad surface gouging from something, I'm assuming rusted rings.
You don't mention removing the ridge.
You don't mention what grit "Medium" is.
Seems like you didn’t come up high enough in the demonstration
What a bore that was!
this is nonsense--these things are not cyl hones --they are cyl wall deglazers--a totally different process to honing cyls for size and fit (and yes 65 yrs of eng building )
So much wrong here. Always make full passes, otherwise you run the risk of tapering the cylinder walls. Honing doesnt just make crosshatching, it removes material and is used to take out the last few thousandths after boring as well as deglazing during a rebuild.
Yes uniform honing is the key.
Its only a cage it'll be fine.
This is just degrade and quick cross hatch. I honed many cylinders no need to bore if have a sunken hone can take as much as you want
More like tenths not thousands. You'd really have to crank it down to remove thousands.
@@StreetTruckinTitan what? .1 is a tenth which is far more than .001 which is a thousandth. So a tenth is 100 times more than a thousandth.
Honing? No, This is deglazing. The cylinders will still be out of round and tapered. You might have a nice looking cylinder finish when you're done, but that doesn't mean it will seal a new ring. This is perfume on a pig.
the nancy pelosi hone job...
That;s why you use a ball dunny brush it hides all the wear ?
If people hone the same way as the lame actor in the video then the cross hatch will be 10 deg not 45 degrees
those bores are stuffed ,bad advice given
Boo. Sorry mates, you haven't honed anything. Note the unhoned portions in the bore. You've roughed up the high spots is all, and maintained whatever taper exists. You need a Lisle or even better an ancient AMMCO 500. The Ammco allows you to set the amount of metal removal (.oo1 mm etc) for a straight cut. A standard stone, then a burnishing stone, then a finishing stone. You need to measure the bore with a new ring (check the end gaps) to see how much metal you can remove first. A nice hone, with a .025 ring end gap, is a flat out failure. You are this close, just bore it with new pistons.
WRONG WAY WRONG TOOL
It's obvious these style of hones are poor. Look at their own video, you can see what the hone missed. At least a dingle ball hone can put proper crosshatch on a cylinder. IF YOUR CYLINDERS HAVE MUCH OF A RIDGE you need to take it to a machine shop where a proper hone can be used for mildly wore cylinders. Badly worn cylinders NEED bored. Sorry Supercheap Auto but nobody should waste their money on a junk hone.
Use a ridge reamer first, then hone the bore.
This should be titled: "How to Hone Engine Cylinders The Right Way if You Want to Make a Funnel Bore". Never use one of these flex hones. Use a Constant pressure hone like a Sunnen or Lisle and nothing else or you'll regret it later.
I'm sorry but that block needs to be bored out, a dingle ball hone is used for breaking the glaze - honing stones are made for making a cylinder bigger take it to Machinist buy some Pistons too many people on internet making videos that don't know what they're doing🤦
....no
if you think you're gonna take off any substantial amount of material with that bone, you're simply wrong. The only way you'd take off anywhere near enough material for it to require a +0.020" is if you were honing for hours nonstop. If you're really afraid of that, put some super fine sand paper over the stones and use that as your honing stone.
Too many people giving advice without knowing what they're talking about
@@southproduct7463 i hear you, you cannot make the cylinder bigger that would require any oversized parts with this thing, crazy how people are afraid to use these alot, because they think they'll do it for too long, while there are instances where that can happen, it's very unlikely.
Those honing stones would disappear long before you changed the bore diameter enough to require oversized pistons unless you had a very coarse grit and extra stones. You might as well try to cut down a giant redwood tree with a pocket knife....going to take a while. Still, it always makes sense to do the minimal amount of honing that is necessary. The idea is to get a surface that will allow new piston rings to set properly. Too polished (having a shiny mirror finish) can mean that you won't get good compression results and you'll have an oil burner.
Total rubbish the three leged hone is perfect for the job and is made for the job bottle brush hone is for cross hatch as well and is okay as well. Ask any of us qualified mechanics and you will get the same answer. The bore is okay if there is no Ridge on it, never bother to use a Ridge remover it's a waist of time unless it's a lawn mower that don't really matter.
DONT USE SYNTHETIC OIL TO LUBE THE HONE
That doesn't make any sense.
@@michaelcohen9363 how so
@@circlejerk6861 because it doesn't make any sense.
The oil (whether conventional or synthetic) is just the lube for the honing stones. It doesn't make a difference if someone uses one or the other.
@@michaelcohen9363 is that fact or your preofessional opinion
@@circlejerk6861 Both. It's just a lubricant.
What you're thinking of is NOT using synthetic to break in new oil rings on a rebuilt motor. For honing though, using synthetic is fine.
Just a comment for a home hone. This cannot be done correctly ar home the block needs to go to a machine shop!
What a load of crap!!!!
This is called “The right way”? I’m sorry this is such bad information. That spring loaded bs Stone is not going to hone anything. You’re barely breaking the glaze and you have so many low and high spots you won’t touch with one of these junk “hones”. You at the very least need a lisle 15000 or sunnen equivalent. You can actually remove .005” off with those pretty accurately.
NOOOOOOO!!!!! USE A BALL HONE NOT A 3 PIECE HONE!!!!