I am an automotive machinist by trade and have 30 years of experience doing it. I cannot tell you how many times over the years I have done exactly what you are doing here. Most of the time the result is satisfactory. You are doing everything right imo. The naysayers are whacked with their visions of perfection. You only need perfection when perfection is the end game. perfection as I understand it is not your end game here it just needs to work. I believe it will
Every build these days is almost required to be balls to the wall big power when quite honestly nobody making those comments could handle more than 350 hp
@@jessiebickel2214 exactly correct. I started building engines in the late 1980's and in the shop talk it was always said that an honest 400 hp to the ground would make most poop their pantaloons. I think the same hold true today.
@@jessiebickel2214 this. i built a big block mopar, and honestly...i dont like how much power it has. its too unpredictable for me. im gonna be putting a 318 in and build it to 350hp and be happy.
The way your comment started that was not where I thought you were going with it. Lol. As the old adage goes we’re not building a rocket ship here. Lol. I feel that it may not last as long as one done right? Or be as healthy? But you could build a lot of budget motors for the price of one done well. Just check all your clearances especially ring end gap. If you want big power a boat or something that is taking a lot of abuse that may be different. I guess it’s all what your trying to accomplish. I’m not a machinist though. When I was a young kid I bought a ct70 that was blown up. Had a burnt valve and had got soo hot you could break the rings like dry noodles. Needless to say the bore was a mess and I spent all my budget on parts. Couldn’t afford a small hone. So I stuck a piece of ready rod through a block of wood wrapped a rag around it and duck taped iron oxide sand paper to it for a hone. It broke in fine worked and I beat on it for 2 summers and then sold it. Lol.
I wouldn’t sell this kind of build to a customer but I’ve built many engines like this in my day. There isn’t to many cylnders a old cast iron ring won’t seat on.
@@Guns_N_Gears We got 70,000 miles on ours before it coasted into the lot as a trade in....never to start again. One morning it had enough compression to start and dad said it is going to the car lot, to never be seen again.
I love this "good enough" and "let's hope for the best" approach. As an sperger I regularly bog myself down with perfectionism and get frustrated when perfection just doesn't want to happen. This feels so much more enjoyable. If it doesn't work, it doesn't work. It's an adventure either way :)
Get one of the best looking top rings off one of the pistons and sit it in each of the cylinders to check for roundness. Check at the upper part of the bores, down at the bottom end of piston travel towards BDC and in the middle of the stroke area. Use a piston to square the ring up in the bore. Shine a light up from underneath and look for light getting through on the outer land between the ring and cylinder wall. Also measure the gap of the ring to see if it varies much in the different areas.
That's the first thing I thought also. It sure would have made me sleep better at night. Those new stones with lite WD-40 would cut those cylinders up to the next size fast.
I'm just glad you learned your lesson from the blazer and tore the block down first. It cleaned up very well gm is more forgiving on tolerances then other makers. I'd use cast rings they'll seal real well, oh and don't worry about the purest out there the 78 is gonna be a beast when she's done.
Great job! The work your doing is MUCH more real world than the high dollar builds other people are doing.. Can't always throw out the block and who can afford a machine shop on the rates they charge these days? Great job and take a bow! Your content is top notch and real world!
im so glad to see a update so quickly! i would totally enjoy it if the videos were more frequent just split up into chunks like this. really hope this build survives!
I recommend 3 stone hones over ball hones ESP if you’re removing a lot. Ball hones are great for getting a quick cross hatch but 3 stones you can use to remove taper as well Also you have about 5-10 thou of over bore with stock size pistons Also you can use a piston and a ring to check for roundness and taper Use the piston to square it and light at the bottom to check round Use a feeler gauge in the gap to check relative expansion of the ring through the bore
As a reconditioner we would not call it a 010" thou overbore, we would say i thas 010"wear as this wear mainly occurs near the top of the ring travel mostly on the thrust side of the bore the lower parts of the bore will still measure std. Hastings rings were the go to ring for worn bores that have just had a hone run through them.
I have a 4G64 running around with a similar method with about 80k miles on the rebuild. Yeah it doesn’t pass a leakdown test as well as you would from a fresh rebore but in operation it’s clearly functional.
Im planning on doing a b18b rebuild. This video helped out a lot since the block I have was from my old integra that I never stored properly. When I went online looking for answers, it was nothing but bad things about the rust on the cylinders. This gave me some peace of mind that the block wasnt ruined.
Alright! Awesome to see more new content with your patented step-by-step explanations that I love. I feel like I could watch a video of yours and replicate the exact project myself and that's a rare thing.
This might help, place the top ring in the bore, using a piston to keep it square in the bore, measure the gap ,then push the ring down almost to bottom of the bore, measure the gap, if the diffrence is less then 3 thousandth, your okay, when you buy new rings use over size rings and file fit the ring gap for NA use ,The gap should be between 15 to 19 thousand, then check the ring gap at the bottom of the bore, if the gap is less then the top of bore, open the gap, the deal is you never want the ends of the ring to touch when the engine is hot, or they will break, and score the cylinder walls. One thing you can try is a barrel faced top ring ,if they make them for chevys, a barrel faced ring wont leave a ridge (honda), I have broken the top rings because the rod bearing was beyond the service limit and the top ring hits the ridge (plus I had a lead foot) a loose piston in the bore can rattle when cold, some times a machine shop can knurl the piston skirt, which is a band aid. Good luck.
I’m glad to see you’re using the Classic stone hone. This tool has been my go to honing tool with my iron block builds .. i have had great results using ATF . Subscribed
I do the same thing you are doing in this on many of my own engines and i am by no means judging you for doing so. I do think it's funny that you torque every single bolt to spec exactly but play a bit loose with the machining of engine components. You are genuinely a great example to me personally and you make me try harder to be more perfect and precise with everything i do I just thought this was a funny comparison. Love you keep doing what you are doing.
Good luck! I think I can speak for a lot of us here in saying, you have brought many laughs and lessons from your projects. My brother and I talk about crazy projects you take on all the time when we are talking about the crazy projects that we have lined up. Thank you!
I watched a video the other day where a guy used a 50 gallon drum and a battery charger to do electrolysis to clean the rust from an engine it did a really good job especially on the ports inside the engine block.
I did the same to a small block 350 in the mid 80's. It was wonderfully loose! I ran it in a hobby stock'r and it never seized despite over heating regularly over 250'.
Just stumbled upon your channel. So far it’s great. I like that your willing to try regardless of what may happen. I have a garage with several projects that I’m afraid to start because everyone says it has to be done at the machine shop and not everyone can afford to do that. This gives me hope thank you… maybe now I will attempt a few of these projects
it's perfect .. don't worry ... in the past, on one of my car, the cap of one of piston rod get lose ,... so I replaced that cylinder (sleeve, piston, piston rod,...) the repair was done quick with cheap parts in 2 days, the crankshaft have on one side a wear witch I estimated some around 0.5mm -0.8mm... I intended a proper repair of the engine and buyed later a complete set of pistons, rods, crankshaft that never get in the engine (sold the set later with the car). So I run the engine 4 years (probably around 75000Km) with that bad crankshaft, with a piston rod with higher weight than the other tree (some around probably 50g) and no issue from the temporary quick repair done on the road. The only mention is that this was done on a car probably 20-25 years ago...
Damn I really enjoyed this. We don't need some paper at a trade school telling us when we need to bore our cylinders. Trial and error is how we learn. subbed :D
Doing same trick with old cast blocks, 305, 350 GM, 245 & 351 Ford. It always work properly after, but sometimes damn oil consumption occurs. So i prefer properly measure block by myself, buy oversized pistons and go to nearby machine shop. One of these 245 Ford motors still running every day in my '91 Explorer Sport for 6 years. Thank you for this video! Greetings from Russia. We also here have plenty ol' good classic cars:)
I like this, it’s more of a real world scenario versus the TV shows with all the latest and greatest where money doesn’t seem to be an issue. Honestly, how many of the backyard builders live in that world.
I did the same build on my gen v with the same flat stone. My 454 was a mercruiser boat motor I put in my c10. Same rust build up and cylinder staining! I hit those cylinders all day and polished them with multiple stones like in your video. Like you said "keep pressing on" it will work out
One "old time" tool you could have used is a "ridge reamer". It's a simple tool that clamps in the top of a bore, with a tool steel cutter blade that is turned by hand. You turn the tool clockwise until the ridge is gone. it only cuts the ridge, not the bore lower in the block. Sometimes we had to use it just to get the pistons out from a very worn block. I bet you cold get a used one pretty cheap if you could find one. I still have mine, but last time I used it was 2008. They aren't used much anymore, because any rebuilds today usually involve a rebore. But they're perfect for what you are doing.
This is a nice change from the sunday morning show Power Nation where their budget is unlimited and their sponsors give them everything. In the old days what Fuzzy Dice is doing was called a "Farmers rebuild" Farmers never had a shop do repairs. When the family car engine wore out the farm owner purchased a rings bearings and gasket kit from NAPA and rebuilt his engine on a Saturday. Maybe added a new oil pump and if needed hand lapped the valves. Put the motor back in the truck or car and was good to go FOR YEARS.
On a mild performance rebuild, it will be just fine. I've done these before, using the first hone you used, then went back and hit it with a dingleberry hone with atf, used a file fit ring, and they ran forever.
I agree with what you’re doing I have been a mechanic for over 30 years had a small engine repair shop and also worked on heavy equipment tractors belt trucks high performance engines etc. and I’ve tried many different ways I’ve had a machine shop bore and HONNE redo the heads and vows and everything and I’ve also done all kinds of engines by hand including flatten the head and horn cylinders everything from three cylinder diesel‘s to 351W Fords, even to cycle chainsaws of hand hung them and they had amazing compression so it can be done on a budget I just found your channel and subscribed thanks for the good video guys enjoy PS right now I’m looking for a old 70s Ford 4 x 4 with a 460 and it’ll be done like you’re doing this one with a nice cam !! I hear the rump rump !😀
I have to respect that you actually took the time to make a poster trolling yourself and the audience. :) I'd be curious to see how these sorts of projects actually measure out for you in the future though. A set of cheap T gauges can't be that much cash these days... edit: And... Commented about 2 seconds early! haha
I've ran worse looking cylinders on motors and honestly they had no combustion or oil consumption issues whatsoever. My jeep 4.2 liter had pits,grooves and gouges. Ran a 3blade hone in and out for a a minute a cylinder lubricated with waste engine oil. End gapped my rings. Tossed a few seals and gaskets in. I put almost 80k on that engine and sold it and to this day, no complaints.
i did back in 1973 to 1978,did about 900 engines, inline 6s and v8s and we charged 750 for a overhaul this consisted of doing what you are doing and re-ringing.cleaning the pistons,grinding the heads,new rod bearings and mains,always a new oil pump and gasket set,not one of those cars came back,did a lot of rambler amc 6s,chevy's,the cylinder closest to the water pump always wore the most,because it runs cooler,made a lot of money on old style overhauls,saved a lot of peoples cars that had no money for a new one,none of them were rusted, they were off the road running vehicles,did a lot of rusted ones for myself,fired them up on a stand and left them idle for 2 hours and next they were sold,none of them came back,only had one that smoked,i used premium rings,never do that unless it is a race motor,CAST IRON RINGS WILL COVER UP A LOT OF BUG A BOOS,47 years and retired,use the worthless ball hones to reach the stains you talk about,then go with the 3 stone adjustable expanding hone, to me the ball hones are expendable,bought 4 a year,yeah we were that busy,cars without chrome bumpers are junk anyway
I recommend this video! Good stuff, excited to see the end result - Would you consider doing a teardown after 1000-2000 miles? I'd be interested to see what the bores look like after a bit of use!
I don't plan on it unless something goes wrong, but at the very least I could try to get some borescope pictures of the cylinder walls through a spark plug hole
I think what you did here is perfectly acceptable for a daily driver. Maybe not high performance applications. I work on my car to keep it on the road so i like this method.
I had a 403 Olds years back ( I've had a few now) it had perfect bores , no lip , new looking pistons , like it ran for a month and was left for 30 years , two cylinders looked as bad as that or worse , as water sat in no 6 for 4 years , there was a ring or half ring mark in the bore two thirds the way up , and it was a good 40 tho deep , I thought I'll just hone it , and put it back together, same rings and everything, !!! Motor ran fine , fair compression , didn't blow smoke , that motor is still going 8 years later ! Not a problem .
the rigit hone is a one time purchase and should work better at getting cilinders oversize and perfectly straight and round on a limited budget you can get different grit stones for it and replace them when worn , the tool basicly last through a lifetime of engine rebuilds the lisle one is pretty good
I'm building a 454. Also. I'm absolutely broke. Lol. But ha 90 percent of the parts. And a older friend whose helping. This makes me a bit more relaxed on what to do.. I'll keep watching. Oh. Side not my son and I are going to be putting a 65 lemans together but first that motor needs to be gone through. 389. Not gto.
I did the exact same thing on a Chevy 350, had Rusty cylinder and a very minor ridge. But didn't look as bad as that block, in pictures it looked clean after I did it. I refused to take to a machine shop and go down the domino path. In the end it runs as good as new.
I am an automotive machinist by trade and have 30 years of experience doing it. I cannot tell you how many times over the years I have done exactly what you are doing here. Most of the time the result is satisfactory. You are doing everything right imo. The naysayers are whacked with their visions of perfection. You only need perfection when perfection is the end game. perfection as I understand it is not your end game here it just needs to work. I believe it will
Glad to hear someone with a clue and genuine experience thinks this will work 😎
Every build these days is almost required to be balls to the wall big power when quite honestly nobody making those comments could handle more than 350 hp
@@jessiebickel2214 exactly correct. I started building engines in the late 1980's and in the shop talk it was always said that an honest 400 hp to the ground would make most poop their pantaloons. I think the same hold true today.
@@jessiebickel2214 this. i built a big block mopar, and honestly...i dont like how much power it has. its too unpredictable for me. im gonna be putting a 318 in and build it to 350hp and be happy.
The way your comment started that was not where I thought you were going with it. Lol. As the old adage goes we’re not building a rocket ship here. Lol. I feel that it may not last as long as one done right? Or be as healthy? But you could build a lot of budget motors for the price of one done well. Just check all your clearances especially ring end gap. If you want big power a boat or something that is taking a lot of abuse that may be different. I guess it’s all what your trying to accomplish. I’m not a machinist though. When I was a young kid I bought a ct70 that was blown up. Had a burnt valve and had got soo hot you could break the rings like dry noodles. Needless to say the bore was a mess and I spent all my budget on parts. Couldn’t afford a small hone. So I stuck a piece of ready rod through a block of wood wrapped a rag around it and duck taped iron oxide sand paper to it for a hone. It broke in fine worked and I beat on it for 2 summers and then sold it. Lol.
I'm glad that you're showing that a low budget rebuild can be done without a machine shop.
@@TheJeremyseattle Hey, if it works, it's not wrong.
It’s illegal to upload this quickly! Slow down!
No more soup for you! btw are you ever going to finish that damn Fiero?
Ron's the leading expert on this, listen to him!
@@jairotena8281 my thoughts exactly!
Oh yeah?! Just you wait.
It’s illegal to comment this much! Slow down! :P
Positive comment for the algorithm: Good luck with the build!
Probably shouldn't say algorithm
It worked, the video popped up on my home page
Worked
I wouldn’t sell this kind of build to a customer but I’ve built many engines like this in my day. There isn’t to many cylnders a old cast iron ring won’t seat on.
Ask someone thats has owned a Vega if they ever had that problem 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yes, in my experience simple cast iron rings are very forgiving in less than perfect cylinders.
@@Guns_N_Gears We got 70,000 miles on ours before it coasted into the lot as a trade in....never to start again. One morning it had enough compression to start and dad said it is going to the car lot, to never be seen again.
@@gavincurtis To never be seen again, that line is priceless!!!!!
Hey can i please show you my one? Im stressing hard about it
I love this "good enough" and "let's hope for the best" approach. As an sperger I regularly bog myself down with perfectionism and get frustrated when perfection just doesn't want to happen.
This feels so much more enjoyable. If it doesn't work, it doesn't work. It's an adventure either way :)
Same. Then I get all disappointed with myself when I delayed tackling something only to find out it was super easy all along when I actually go do it.
Throw a cast ring in it and it will run like a new one. You should see how bad some of the ones I have built were with never a issue.
Get one of the best looking top rings off one of the pistons and sit it in each of the cylinders to check for roundness. Check at the upper part of the bores, down at the bottom end of piston travel towards BDC and in the middle of the stroke area.
Use a piston to square the ring up in the bore. Shine a light up from underneath and look for light getting through on the outer land between the ring and cylinder wall.
Also measure the gap of the ring to see if it varies much in the different areas.
I screen shot this so I can use it later. Thanks for the information.
This is good
That's the first thing I thought also. It sure would have made me sleep better at night. Those new stones with lite WD-40 would cut those cylinders up to the next size fast.
Yep
Best info in the entire article!!!
I love these budget builds. It's how most of us do our own projects so it's cool to see the experiments. Keep it up man.
Also, the transition of the photos of the cylinder wall during the honing process belongs in a museum. That was great
Agreed, I was going to comment on this. Pure magic.
You uploaded this video just when i was halfway through the previous one, that feels great!
I'm just glad you learned your lesson from the blazer and tore the block down first. It cleaned up very well gm is more forgiving on tolerances then other makers. I'd use cast rings they'll seal real well, oh and don't worry about the purest out there the 78 is gonna be a beast when she's done.
Great job! The work your doing is MUCH more real world than the high dollar builds other people are doing.. Can't always throw out the block and who can afford a machine shop on the rates they charge these days? Great job and take a bow! Your content is top notch and real world!
True
2 Fuzzy Dice videos in a row! Good luck with the build.
Algorithmic overlords be pleased with this content. It is delicious.
im so glad to see a update so quickly! i would totally enjoy it if the videos were more frequent just split up into chunks like this. really hope this build survives!
I recommend 3 stone hones over ball hones
ESP if you’re removing a lot. Ball hones are great for getting a quick cross hatch but 3 stones you can use to remove taper as well
Also you have about 5-10 thou of over bore with stock size pistons
Also you can use a piston and a ring to check for roundness and taper
Use the piston to square it and light at the bottom to check round
Use a feeler gauge in the gap to check relative expansion of the ring through the bore
A home job like you did is fine with stock pistons and rings. Lots of guys run a .010 overbore with std. parts. Great build so far!
How does that work in the end ?
As a reconditioner we would not call it a 010" thou overbore, we would say i thas 010"wear as this wear mainly occurs near the top of the ring travel mostly on the thrust side of the bore the lower parts of the bore will still measure std. Hastings rings were the go to ring for worn bores that have just had a hone run through them.
I’d say never let perfection get in the way of good enough
I loved the shot when you faded from rusty to cleaned up
I have a 4G64 running around with a similar method with about 80k miles on the rebuild. Yeah it doesn’t pass a leakdown test as well as you would from a fresh rebore but in operation it’s clearly functional.
Im planning on doing a b18b rebuild. This video helped out a lot since the block I have was from my old integra that I never stored properly. When I went online looking for answers, it was nothing but bad things about the rust on the cylinders. This gave me some peace of mind that the block wasnt ruined.
Alright! Awesome to see more new content with your patented step-by-step explanations that I love. I feel like I could watch a video of yours and replicate the exact project myself and that's a rare thing.
This might help, place the top ring in the bore, using a piston to keep it square in the bore, measure the gap ,then push the ring down almost to bottom of the bore, measure the gap, if the diffrence is less then 3 thousandth, your okay, when you buy new rings use over size rings and file fit the ring gap for NA use ,The gap should be between 15 to 19 thousand, then check the ring gap at the bottom of the bore, if the gap is less then the top of bore, open the gap, the deal is you never want the ends of the ring to touch when the engine is hot, or they will break, and score the cylinder walls. One thing you can try is a barrel faced top ring ,if they make them for chevys, a barrel faced ring wont leave a ridge (honda), I have broken the top rings because the rod bearing was beyond the service limit and the top ring hits the ridge (plus I had a lead foot) a loose piston in the bore can rattle when cold, some times a machine shop can knurl the piston skirt, which is a band aid. Good luck.
2 fuzzy dice rebuilds videos in 2 days? And part of the same series?! A blessing from the lord!
I’m glad to see you’re using the Classic stone hone. This tool has been my go to honing tool with my iron block builds .. i have had great results using ATF . Subscribed
I do the same thing you are doing in this on many of my own engines and i am by no means judging you for doing so. I do think it's funny that you torque every single bolt to spec exactly but play a bit loose with the machining of engine components. You are genuinely a great example to me personally and you make me try harder to be more perfect and precise with everything i do I just thought this was a funny comparison. Love you keep doing what you are doing.
Good luck! I think I can speak for a lot of us here in saying, you have brought many laughs and lessons from your projects. My brother and I talk about crazy projects you take on all the time when we are talking about the crazy projects that we have lined up. Thank you!
Feeling better about my DIY 4 cylinder project after watching this. Mine's not quite as bad as this, but close in 1 bore. Great topic / video.
I think the way the cylinders came out are going to work perfectly there's nothing to worry about.
One of the best videos on UA-cam of the way things work in the real world
I love your content, even if it's a 5 month wait, or not even 24hours, it's always exciting to see you get a new video uploaded
Seconded
I watched a video the other day where a guy used a 50 gallon drum and a battery charger to do electrolysis to clean the rust from an engine it did a really good job especially on the ports inside the engine block.
You forgot the molasses
@@safetyfirstintexas He didn't use any in that video. What does that do?
@@brucenaylor2043 ua-cam.com/video/Fxs-VGJTEPQ/v-deo.html
did this on tailgate of elcamino, drove from Arkansas to San Diego next day, sold car 5 yrs latter still running great
WHAT?! Two episodes in two days? You spoil us, sir.
I did the same to a small block 350 in the mid 80's. It was wonderfully loose! I ran it in a hobby stock'r and it never seized despite over heating regularly over 250'.
Two days of uploads back to back, what a treat! Good luck with the build!
It's good to work like this when you have parts cheaply available needed for an engine rebuild. Nice job!
Love the Budget Rebuild type Videos.
And also the Video split up in multiple parts. Makes it easier to watch
Go for it. I did the same thing with a engine 35 years ago and it is still going strong.
Just stumbled upon your channel. So far it’s great. I like that your willing to try regardless of what may happen. I have a garage with several projects that I’m afraid to start because everyone says it has to be done at the machine shop and not everyone can afford to do that. This gives me hope thank you… maybe now I will attempt a few of these projects
it's perfect .. don't worry ... in the past, on one of my car, the cap of one of piston rod get lose ,... so I replaced that cylinder (sleeve, piston, piston rod,...) the repair was done quick with cheap parts in 2 days, the crankshaft have on one side a wear witch I estimated some around 0.5mm -0.8mm... I intended a proper repair of the engine and buyed later a complete set of pistons, rods, crankshaft that never get in the engine (sold the set later with the car). So I run the engine 4 years (probably around 75000Km) with that bad crankshaft, with a piston rod with higher weight than the other tree (some around probably 50g) and no issue from the temporary quick repair done on the road. The only mention is that this was done on a car probably 20-25 years ago...
I can't remember how many engines I've done like this in the last 45 years. The job you did will run fine
I had bad experiences with machine shops,you are on the right path👍
Two episodes in a day. U spoil us good sir
Damn I really enjoyed this. We don't need some paper at a trade school telling us when we need to bore our cylinders. Trial and error is how we learn. subbed :D
Awesome! Glad to see the 78 getting some love!
Doing same trick with old cast blocks, 305, 350 GM, 245 & 351 Ford. It always work properly after, but sometimes damn oil consumption occurs. So i prefer properly measure block by myself, buy oversized pistons and go to nearby machine shop. One of these 245 Ford motors still running every day in my '91 Explorer Sport for 6 years.
Thank you for this video! Greetings from Russia. We also here have plenty ol' good classic cars:)
Two videos in two days!!! Best weekend ever!
I like this, it’s more of a real world scenario versus the TV shows with all the latest and greatest where money doesn’t seem to be an issue. Honestly, how many of the backyard builders live in that world.
3 months of videos in 2 days? Yay!
Bro. Oversized piston rings for the win. Highly recommend 👌
The shorter format is acceptable. Production quality is higher than previous longer form content. 👍
I love all the Firebird content, the 78 and the 91!
Two videos back to back it’s gona be a good Saturday
Two videos in two days? You’re spoiling us! Great vid, I think the shorter video length is just fine
I love this channel. Well done, Mike! Keep up the great work!
I've done several small blocks this way with pitting and worked great
Is it ok to do this while the crank and cam shaft is still installed
Most anticipated comeback, for me at least. Great as always man!
I did the same build on my gen v with the same flat stone. My 454 was a mercruiser boat motor I put in my c10. Same rust build up and cylinder staining! I hit those cylinders all day and polished them with multiple stones like in your video. Like you said "keep pressing on" it will work out
One "old time" tool you could have used is a "ridge reamer". It's a simple tool that clamps in the top of a bore, with a tool steel cutter blade that is turned by hand. You turn the tool clockwise until the ridge is gone. it only cuts the ridge, not the bore lower in the block. Sometimes we had to use it just to get the pistons out from a very worn block. I bet you cold get a used one pretty cheap if you could find one. I still have mine, but last time I used it was 2008. They aren't used much anymore, because any rebuilds today usually involve a rebore. But they're perfect for what you are doing.
What a treat!!! Two videos !!
This is a nice change from the sunday morning show Power Nation where their budget is unlimited and their sponsors give them everything. In the old days what Fuzzy Dice is doing was called a "Farmers rebuild" Farmers never had a shop do repairs. When the family car engine wore out the farm owner purchased a rings bearings and gasket kit from NAPA and rebuilt his engine on a Saturday. Maybe added a new oil pump and if needed hand lapped the valves. Put the motor back in the truck or car and was good to go FOR YEARS.
Love this low budget engine build, you rock man!
On a mild performance rebuild, it will be just fine. I've done these before, using the first hone you used, then went back and hit it with a dingleberry hone with atf, used a file fit ring, and they ran forever.
Woah. A new vid before a month i like this!!
We used this type of honing 50 years before.After using Sunnen cylinder king for 20 years it looks like a sweet memory...
Loving the series, can't wait for more.
I agree with what you’re doing I have been a mechanic for over 30 years had a small engine repair shop and also worked on heavy equipment tractors belt trucks high performance engines etc. and I’ve tried many different ways I’ve had a machine shop bore and HONNE redo the heads and vows and everything and I’ve also done all kinds of engines by hand including flatten the head and horn cylinders everything from three cylinder diesel‘s to 351W Fords, even to cycle chainsaws of hand hung them and they had amazing compression so it can be done on a budget I just found your channel and subscribed thanks for the good video guys enjoy PS right now I’m looking for a old 70s Ford 4 x 4 with a 460 and it’ll be done like you’re doing this one with a nice cam !! I hear the rump rump !😀
2 videos in a day, definitely my lucky day
I have to respect that you actually took the time to make a poster trolling yourself and the audience. :)
I'd be curious to see how these sorts of projects actually measure out for you in the future though. A set of cheap T gauges can't be that much cash these days...
edit: And... Commented about 2 seconds early! haha
That's how you hone engine after great apocalypse when all proffesional machines are dead. Super cool video :)
I've ran worse looking cylinders on motors and honestly they had no combustion or oil consumption issues whatsoever. My jeep 4.2 liter had pits,grooves and gouges. Ran a 3blade hone in and out for a a minute a cylinder lubricated with waste engine oil. End gapped my rings. Tossed a few seals and gaskets in. I put almost 80k on that engine and sold it and to this day, no complaints.
Yes! I haven’t even watched it yet but I am excited! I love these videos
You left me hanging with Part 1... Goddam you released another!!!
Hey. New subscriber here and this is literally the first video I've watched. Can't wait to see more and good luck with it all 👍
I was broke AF when I was young and did this to a 72 chevy 350 pu ended up putting about 80,000 miles on it. It'll be great 👍!
Done this 2 times before they ran great , have one 350 now ,done the same work to it new bearings and rings just got it together last week
Wow! That fast of an upload ?! I'm excited!
Hell yeah Multiple videos very quick love the content
i did back in 1973 to 1978,did about 900 engines, inline 6s and v8s and we charged 750 for a overhaul this consisted of doing what you are doing and re-ringing.cleaning the pistons,grinding the heads,new rod bearings and mains,always a new oil pump and gasket set,not one of those cars came back,did a lot of rambler amc 6s,chevy's,the cylinder closest to the water pump always wore the most,because it runs cooler,made a lot of money on old style overhauls,saved a lot of peoples cars that had no money for a new one,none of them were rusted, they were off the road running vehicles,did a lot of rusted ones for myself,fired them up on a stand and left them idle for 2 hours and next they were sold,none of them came back,only had one that smoked,i used premium rings,never do that unless it is a race motor,CAST IRON RINGS WILL COVER UP A LOT OF BUG A BOOS,47 years and retired,use the worthless ball hones to reach the stains you talk about,then go with the 3 stone adjustable expanding hone, to me the ball hones are expendable,bought 4 a year,yeah we were that busy,cars without chrome bumpers are junk anyway
I recommend this video! Good stuff, excited to see the end result - Would you consider doing a teardown after 1000-2000 miles? I'd be interested to see what the bores look like after a bit of use!
I don't plan on it unless something goes wrong, but at the very least I could try to get some borescope pictures of the cylinder walls through a spark plug hole
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Sure, that would be interesting too!
this is exactly what i was looking for. thanks for this experiment
I think what you did here is perfectly acceptable for a daily driver. Maybe not high performance applications. I work on my car to keep it on the road so i like this method.
Two uploads in two days?! You are SPOILING us :D
Your quality of video has gotten better.
Yes, another video! I like the new format!
“ low buck “ my kind of channel right here God bless
hell it run like a champ clean all the parts really well new rings bearings check the valves out really well
I had a 403 Olds years back ( I've had a few now) it had perfect bores , no lip , new looking pistons , like it ran for a month and was left for 30 years , two cylinders looked as bad as that or worse , as water sat in no 6 for 4 years , there was a ring or half ring mark in the bore two thirds the way up , and it was a good 40 tho deep , I thought I'll just hone it , and put it back together, same rings and everything, !!! Motor ran fine , fair compression , didn't blow smoke , that motor is still going 8 years later ! Not a problem .
This is awesome, I can't wait to see how this turns out.
the rigit hone is a one time purchase and should work better at getting cilinders oversize and perfectly straight and round on a limited budget
you can get different grit stones for it and replace them when worn , the tool basicly last through a lifetime of engine rebuilds
the lisle one is pretty good
This is a real low budget build and just all around a really good vid. Sending every part to a machine shop is not budget😂
Nothing like a solid budget build - I'm not raising alarms over no machine shop involvement. :-) I'm sure this build will work out as intended. :-)
Somewhere in Africa, this is a very high-quality repair, you don't even need an internal gauge every 500 miles you can repair the engine like that!
I'm building a 454. Also. I'm absolutely broke. Lol. But ha 90 percent of the parts. And a older friend whose helping. This makes me a bit more relaxed on what to do.. I'll keep watching. Oh. Side not my son and I are going to be putting a 65 lemans together but first that motor needs to be gone through. 389. Not gto.
Two Fuzzy Dice uploads in less than a decade?
WHAT IN THE HELL?
2 videos in a row nice dude
I did the exact same thing on a Chevy 350, had Rusty cylinder and a very minor ridge. But didn't look as bad as that block, in pictures it looked clean after I did it. I refused to take to a machine shop and go down the domino path. In the end it runs as good as new.
I now expect a video in the morning... 🤣