What a super practical and efficient burnisher. It was very good to watch. It was worth the excellent work and video. Low expense and complete resolution of the problem with new rings.
Thanks for the video. Nice to see someone who isn't talking complete brown and just gets on with the task! I have to do this task on my MGB so I'll be using your advice.
Paid hundreds of NZ$ to have this done on my A65T, and he threw the pistons away, twice. Now I know what to do, and importantly what caused the nipping on LH piston. Thanks , love your style of showing.
The cylinder block was a great candidate for a hone & new set of rings. What needs to be checked is the grit of the stones and important for the rings to seal properly is the correct cross-hatch angle that results from the correct speed & feed of the honing tool. It’s a tricky thing to get right with a hand hone. Plus the pressure on the hone stones (using the drill method) is probably not enough to really cut through the bore glaze. The result will look ok but the rings won’t seal as well as they should and it’ll start to burn oil and loose compression after a little while. Also measuring before and after the job is important. Not a bad video otherwise 👍sorry to sound picky but as an engine reconditioner I though I’d throw my two bob’s worth in 😎
I've seen some pretty sad results of using coarse drill based hones from both DIY and 'pro' bike mechanics, either in an attempt to save the cost and hassle of a rebore or a vain attempt to try and replicate the micro cross hatch from a machine shop. They usually ended up smoking on start up and had to be stripped and rebuilt. Either way, you need to measure the bore for wear and it is at all oval then no amount of hand honing will recover it. Fact is, if a cylinder needs that amount of resurfacing then it's best to do a rebore unless you are brave enough to risk a reputation and willing to cover the cost if it goes wrong.
Looks like he took the glaze off to me.Ive used this many times with good success.Keep in mind that it's for deglazing and is not a substitute for a re bore.
You can measure it with ring gap in various positions in the bore. If the engine is small and the cylinder reasonable there is no issue using a drill hone. Providing you create a cross hatch. I am a machinist so should be pushing to re bore haha
@@SuperDouginator how do you know how long you can keep the hone spinning in the cylinder without taking too much off? I thought you had to be relatively quick about it but this guy keeps it in for way longer than I thought and has the drill spinning way faster than I thought
NOT how you should do it! Up and down motion must be much faster to get a cross hatch marks at 45 degrees. That's easier on the rings and retains oil on the cylinder's wall
Mechanical 'magician' at work here!. That drill bit is sprung, so how does he know how many times to work it up and down to get the required result?... Brilliant skills on show here!.
Good video Dave, I have been doing the same for years but I find a solvent the best when actually honing as it cuts the cast iron better. Also I use a variable speed air tool and do the Final Cut at low speed to get a cross hatch finish.
I'm in the middle of working on the head of my '850 Norton. Had the head gasket fail on highway run. First time into an engine head for me. Pistons are STD sized. The bores look great with hone marks still visible (14k miles showing on the odo...unsure if original however). Got the valve bores replaced, seats re-cut, new valves by a local engine shop, as there was guide wear, pitting on seats etc. Thinking to not pull the block and re-hone...just button it back up and go. Suggestions?
Just a suggestion - check the barrel and head surfaces are true and flat - if not they need to be resurfaced by a machine shop. Also, head needs to be torqued down incrementally in the correct order. Also bear in mind the motor is old technology so the bike needs to be ridden fairly sympathetically, i.e. keep the revs down for a couple of hundred miles then re tighten the head bolts and adjust valve clearances before opening it up.
My piston rings are tight in 2 of the bores on a parallel 4 will honing the cylinders help with this. Am using a different set of cylinders as taking apart the engine cracked the old cylinders I had
Marginally but not enough to fall out of tolerance of the rings. Theoretically if you kept going you would end up with a rebore! You just give it a little to freshen up the bore.
What a super practical and efficient burnisher. It was very good to watch. It was worth the excellent work and video. Low expense and complete resolution of the problem with new rings.
Thanks for the video. Nice to see someone who isn't talking complete brown and just gets on with the task! I have to do this task on my MGB so I'll be using your advice.
Paid hundreds of NZ$ to have this done on my A65T, and he threw the pistons away, twice. Now I know what to do, and importantly what caused the nipping on LH piston. Thanks , love your style of showing.
Dave your videos are addictive!!!
The cylinder block was a great candidate for a hone & new set of rings. What needs to be checked is the grit of the stones and important for the rings to seal properly is the correct cross-hatch angle that results from the correct speed & feed of the honing tool. It’s a tricky thing to get right with a hand hone. Plus the pressure on the hone stones (using the drill method) is probably not enough to really cut through the bore glaze. The result will look ok but the rings won’t seal as well as they should and it’ll start to burn oil and loose compression after a little while. Also measuring before and after the job is important. Not a bad video otherwise 👍sorry to sound picky but as an engine reconditioner I though I’d throw my two bob’s worth in 😎
I've seen some pretty sad results of using coarse drill based hones from both DIY and 'pro' bike mechanics, either in an attempt to save the cost and hassle of a rebore or
a vain attempt to try and replicate the micro cross hatch from a machine shop. They usually ended up smoking on start up and had to be stripped and rebuilt. Either way, you need to measure the bore for wear and it is at all oval then no amount of hand honing will recover it. Fact is, if a cylinder needs that amount of resurfacing then it's best to do a rebore unless you are brave enough to risk a reputation and willing to cover the cost if it goes wrong.
Looks like he took the glaze off to me.Ive used this many times with good success.Keep in mind that it's for deglazing and is not a substitute for a re bore.
You can measure it with ring gap in various positions in the bore. If the engine is small and the cylinder reasonable there is no issue using a drill hone. Providing you create a cross hatch. I am a machinist so should be pushing to re bore haha
@@SuperDouginator how do you know how long you can keep the hone spinning in the cylinder without taking too much off? I thought you had to be relatively quick about it but this guy keeps it in for way longer than I thought and has the drill spinning way faster than I thought
I enjoyed your technique of honing cylinders. What type and grade oil do you use. Would 10W30 be capable. Thanks
Thanks Dave for a good, practical insight.
Thank you would love to see more on this bike as you progress. Very informative video 👍
That is interesting. I always thought it was a job for a special machine to hold the hone parallel.
Hey Dave, thanks for watching and your comments! Yeah, everyone's got their own methods haven't they :)
The pivot on the stones means any movement on the drill has no effect on the stone running parallel in the barrel
NOT how you should do it!
Up and down motion must be much faster to get a cross hatch marks at 45 degrees. That's easier on the rings and retains oil on the cylinder's wall
Nice video and very helpful to me. Thank you . 😊
Mechanical 'magician' at work here!. That drill bit is sprung, so how does he know how many times to work it up and down to get the required result?... Brilliant skills on show here!.
Good old Gt85. The lady will not complain about the smell.
On these old bikes if you are using cast iron rings you want to use a coarser stone than what is used in modern engines. A 180 to 220 grit works well.
Good video Dave, I have been doing the same for years but I find a solvent the best when actually honing as it cuts the cast iron better.
Also I use a variable speed air tool and do the Final Cut at low speed to get a cross hatch finish.
That looks like a job that needs some experience, can imagine it’s easy to go too far 😬. Another brilliant video 👍
I'm in the middle of working on the head of my '850 Norton. Had the head gasket fail on highway run. First time into an engine head for me. Pistons are STD sized. The bores look great with hone marks still visible (14k miles showing on the odo...unsure if original however). Got the valve bores replaced, seats re-cut, new valves by a local engine shop, as there was guide wear, pitting on seats etc. Thinking to not pull the block and re-hone...just button it back up and go. Suggestions?
Just a suggestion - check the barrel and head surfaces are true and flat - if not they need to be resurfaced by a machine shop. Also, head needs to be torqued down incrementally in the correct order. Also bear in mind the motor is old technology so the bike needs to be ridden fairly sympathetically, i.e. keep the revs down for a couple of hundred miles then re tighten the head bolts and adjust valve clearances before opening it up.
You tried using dingle berry hone ,they seem to give good cross hatch pattern using it in both directions
My piston rings are tight in 2 of the bores on a parallel 4 will honing the cylinders help with this. Am using a different set of cylinders as taking apart the engine cracked the old cylinders I had
Thanks for showing, How many thou do you think you have made the hole bigger ?
I would like more clearance on a piston I have.
Hi Bill, good question for Dave. We’ll direct him to the comments section. Thanks for watching :)
Hey bill, honing will slowly open up your clearance. You’ve probably sorted it by now!
does honing increase the bore size?
Marginally but not enough to fall out of tolerance of the rings. Theoretically if you kept going you would end up with a rebore! You just give it a little to freshen up the bore.
How do you know you are not taking off too much metal?
Can you use a ball hone ?