Thank you I'm about to use the same ring filer your using on some total seal rings. I was unaware of the "ring fluter" thing so I learned something. Thank you.
I worked for a logger who built all of his own 855 big cam engines. He swore by loose tolerances. Those things could smoke out a square mile on a cold morning, but after they got up to temp, the only smoke was diesel. Lots of power, too.
Not sure when this video was done, but it's still teaching people...well at least me in 3/2022. Great info and detail, I'm only getting interested in building a motor, never did one before, and I'm no Technician...just a diyer learning as I go and now I'm ready for the next step since I have been retired and have more time now.
thank you so much for showing you filer rings i learned alot im gapping my pistons on this ls and i got that manual ring filer now i understand witch way to turn the wheel as i glide over and deburr the edges
Thanks for another awesome video guys, I'm sure your shop stays very busy so taking time out of your schedule to share knowledge that youve had to earn is much appreciated!
Very detailed and informative. Some info about ring gap in relation to fuel, cyl pressures, EGTs, compression height, antilag use, how mutch gap will give you non torque plated block after break-in and so on..., would be good material for next vid, since there is rarely trustworthy people you can rely on, like you. Tnx Jay.
I like deburring the ring after every pass. It removes sharp edges before you put it inside the bore and potentially scratch fresh surface. You can actually feel that sharp edge after a pass.
this is the best video by far there’s a lot of mistakes on other videos of people trying to do the same thing and I just want people to know check this video out first
Great info. I built my motor a few months ago but I watched this out of curiosity of what you set your gaps to. Seems like we think alike because I have the same guidelines lol
Most of this i'm across but gee it would have been a lot easier watching these videos first. No waffle, very clear explanation and demo. You really deserve the sub's and likes.
Excellent video! Appreciate you going beyond the basics with all of the tips and gotchas is super helpful! Have watched other vids on this same topic, but learned a ton about how to do this successfully.
Awesome video! Super well explained. Lol although the guys expressions does look like he is either extremely tired or depressed as hell. But still a GREAT job thank you so much for the video!
Thanks for such a informative video. I intend to rebuild engine of my Vauxhall Victor FB 1964 model, I am having difficulty in deciding which scrapper rings should I install, there is one piece cast iron rings and then there is thin steel rail type rings with expander and helper, which one would be better for a durable and longer service life? The engine is low rev., max five thousand rpm and 8.5:1 compression ratio. Your guidance in this regard would be highly appreciated. Thanks
Can you make a video of how to clean the carbon ridge of the cylinder top the right way/ right tools? Ridge reamer I think, but is there any other tool /solvent or tip can work it when the ridge is just thin? Also the carbon build up on the cylinder head side clean way will be good too. Thanks! Your video help me so much!
I noticed you were cutting the right side and turning the cutter counter clockwise, would it be better to turn it clockwise to use the flat part of the cutters table to stabilize the ring to get a truer cut?
Nice video. What are your thoughts on filing the gap on over size piston rings? I have an air cooled motorcycle, a Honda XR650L single that comes stock with a 100mm bore. I rebuilt the top end a couple of years ago, which included a .5mm oversize bore and new piston set at .002" clearance at the skirt. Performed slow break-in and heat cycles. I checked the ring end gap with the Honda factory manual spec and to my surprise the new rings were almost at the service limit before assembly. That is, the gaps were already at the high end of the tolerance. I noticed this same trend on a few other XR650Ls I rebuilt for friends. Is there any draw back from buying 1.00mm oversize rings and precisely file the gap down to my current .5mm bore to the lower end of the gap tolerance? Any concerns about the extra ring tension against the cylinder walls? I am not worried about my skill as I am a retired machinist and have been working on engines for a long time. Thanks for your thoughts.
We can add it to the list. Very few engines have the pistons above the deck, most however can have piston to valve clearance issues with aftermarket cams. You could correct piston to head with a gasket thickness change just keep in mind thick steel gaskets are harder for the deck and head to seal and IF you need to go to a thicker gasket I'd use a 5 layer before a 3 layer. You generally correct piston to valve with deeper/larger valve reliefs. Thank you.
Jay Meagher ohh cool man. Thanks for replying. I wasn’t even sure my comment would be seen Hahaha. I guess my main concern was the piston to valve clearance as I’m having a block and head in the process of being built and both will be resurfaced so I want to make sure I take the proper steps to measuring for the correct head gasket. I will be running an aftermarket cam. A GSC cam for a stroker 4g63 . I actually recently ordered a few parts from you guys. And definitely going to be placing a decent size order this week (Black Friday lol) Thanks for the consideration on making those videos too.
@@yellowrice1453 Most of the aftermarket pistons have ample valve reliefs for aftermarket cams. It's best to use some clay and check it during mock up. Thanks for your support, we have a killer sale this year and I hope you save some money and get what you need.
Thank for tutorial but i have a question for you so what size of the filler gadge is good for petro engine and diesel engine 0.25 for petro engine ring top and and second and 0.15 for oil ring is that ok
Hi jst wondering if you could help. I've a subaru ej257 2.5 sti. Jst been bored to 100mm. I have cp pistons and the bottom rings oil ring there is only 1 of them on each piston packet with 1 tang, is this correct as I thought there should be 2 tangs. 1 on each oil ring. Also could you suggest ring gap for all rings thanks paul
I have noticed that CP pistons call for tighter gaps than Manley pistons. CP also calls for a larger gap on the 2nd ring and Manley does not. Do you happed to know the reason for this?
Thank you for this video. I recently purchased a freshly built shortblock sbf 363. The ring gaps are .019 according to the sheet. I know these were gapped for a N/A set up. I plan on running 10 psi boost at first then maybe 15 later on. Do you have a recommendation of what I should gap them at?
When I raced my Mustang (SBF) I tried different ring gaps to see if it would make a difference. I ran from .022 to .030 with 15-16psi of non intercooler boost and it didn't amount to any measurable difference. IF you overheat the ring and it butts the ring bends and the engine loses seal. I'd suggest this is an area of the engine that being on the loose side is better as "larger" ring gaps don't hurt your program. I'd start with .023 on the top and .027 on the second. That's a safe place to be. Good luck with your build and if it's high compression run some good Ethanol!
@@jaymeagher1510 thanks for the reply and info. Yes I don't want the ring.ends to touch. I'll be using my Strim vortech with a 4 inch on3 intercooler to start with because that's my current set up on my car now. I know the Strim is small for the new engine and will upgrade blowers hopefully next year. I havent bought the heads for it yet.but I'm trying to be around 9.5:1 to 10.1 compression. My charge temps normally stay below 100 degrees even on hot days.
@@Bobby4v I've been low 9's with the S trim so it's not exactly a "small" blower. As you increase blower size along with the intercooler you fight belt slip. If you're using pump fuel lower the compression more. It will live longer. The IAT sensors are pretty slow, be careful with trusting that information. Thanks
Hi How much end gap is too much please Specs gave 2nd ring. 016 rings out the packet 2nd ring. 023 Is this a bore problem or a ring problem as top ring is ok Kind regards Dave
I think 0.007 per sq inch of piston on top ring will serve you well, 0.009 on the oil ring. On Naturally aspirated. I've seen 0.008 then 0.052 or gas/e85- street turbo
i have a 6.0 ls1 i am going to run twin gt45 turbos whats a good gap i was thinking 26 on the top ring and 30 thousands on the second ring i know you said you keep at least 4 to 5 thousands apart on the second ring
So you would go .001 larger when not using a torque plate right? So in the example chart you display it says .0055 for top ring if blown. So you go .0065? Just checking. Also, what about bore or honing the cylinders, do you think using a torque plate isn’t necessary with big HP? I want to put forged pistons in my Viper but don’t love the expense of the torque plate.
I started building EJ engines in 2007. I have quite a few of them under my belt. It's how Real St gained the trust from the guys at TRC. I built them an engine not knowing who they were and they beat the crap out of it and it lived well. After that they were good customers! I'm currently tuning a Motec in the first Subaru I ever built an engine for.
Am I mistaken in thinking you’re rotating the wheel the wrong direction? Making it go upward gives the chance of skipping and bouncing yeah? Spinning clockwise would give a more stable/safe grind. Edit: disregard, learned something new today!
You want to file towards the side of the ring that's going to be up against the piston. The skipping and bouncing is a problem either way if you're loading the ring against the grinding wheel. It's a pretty gentle process. Thanks
@@jaymeagher1510 I actually just came back to say I found that it’s done correct here, and thank you for clarifying even more on the topic. I’m trying to learn as much as possible with all this stuff that people don’t generally cover.
Hi i have a bore size of 87.5 im hoping for 900hp or more range using cp pistons and rods your billet main caps and a holset hx55 what ring gap should I be running please any advice would be appreciated
Can I use the old rings gap to gap my new rings? I have a 72mm bore and I can't get any rings but 73mm bore rings are available and I haven't find any information as yet to what my gap should be
OLÁ REAL 05/08/24 Ótimo vídeo e é a 1ª vez que vejo a averiguação correta da folga entre pontas dos setores de aço dos anéis de óleo.. Uma sugestão: pegue o setor de aço com apenas uma mão e pressione no diâmetro externo com 2 dedos, o médio e o dedão. Analise a deformação que ocorre no perfil e descobrirás o que e como é possível montar apenas de uma forma correta e 2 incorretas. Além de poder montar correto, na forma incorreta, numa delas poderás AUMENTAR a quantidade de óleo destinado aos anéis de compressão e de outra forma de montagem poderás DIMINUIR o volume de óleo para os demais anéis. Roberto Udo Krapf
Salve sono immerso in una situazione di limare le fasce del pistone perché non trovo il tipo di fasce con la misura che mi servono quindi ho presso un set di fasce maggiorate di 0.25mm la domanda è gli posso montare facendoli limare come nel video Le fasce sembrano uguale a questi nel video Grazie
With no instructions on how to install the rings, how does a person know what way the marks on the rings go towards top of the cylinder? I am talking about a 14 hp Kohler engine. Thanks
Tec tips are the best dont stop them ever
Some people are just smart and logical, this guy is one ☝🏽
The best thing about this video is getting to see the procedure done multiple times, thanks for this! I feel confident doing my rings tonight
Every time I think I've acquired the knowledge I need with engines, I always learn more when watching this channel.
Thank you I'm about to use the same ring filer your using on some total seal rings. I was unaware of the "ring fluter" thing so I learned something. Thank you.
I watch your videos over and over again
Your material is absolutely digestible and Helps us all gain knowledge 👽
I worked for a logger who built all of his own 855 big cam engines. He swore by loose tolerances. Those things could smoke out a square mile on a cold morning, but after they got up to temp, the only smoke was diesel. Lots of power, too.
Not sure when this video was done, but it's still teaching people...well at least me in 3/2022. Great info and detail, I'm only getting interested in building a motor, never did one before, and I'm no Technician...just a diyer learning as I go and now I'm ready for the next step since I have been retired and have more time now.
Thanks realstreet and jay I was about to start my filing of the rings today really informative for my build 😎
i like these extended cut versions...very cool and thank you for your time
This is the best tutorial I've seen so far, thank you.
Best ring filing video I've watched. Well done. Thanks!
Such a tedious job, but the reward is slamming gears problem free 🤩
Fuckin a
Im so happy Jay's back at it again and longer video too!
thank you so much for showing you filer rings i learned alot im gapping my pistons on this ls and i got that manual ring filer now i understand witch way to turn the wheel as i glide over and deburr the edges
Love to see you do the tech tips again!!!!
Number one video to watch for gapping rings please listen to the knowledge because you could mess up your engine easily
Thank you for the support!
Thanks for another awesome video guys, I'm sure your shop stays very busy so taking time out of your schedule to share knowledge that youve had to earn is much appreciated!
I like to go over procedures again to pick up any details before building a new engine---thanks
You are right😊good info God speed
Great video, I've watched it a few times before I start to file my rings, the detail is very much appreciated.
Thanks for your video. Trying to learn as much as I can before I get going
Tech tips are awesome, we watch every episode
Thanks for the tech videos Jay,many know the proscess. Here we all get that extra Jay's experience lol.👌👌👌
Very detailed and informative.
Some info about ring gap in relation to fuel, cyl pressures, EGTs, compression height, antilag use, how mutch gap will give you non torque plated block after break-in and so on..., would be good material for next vid, since there is rarely trustworthy people you can rely on, like you.
Tnx Jay.
I like deburring the ring after every pass. It removes sharp edges before you put it inside the bore and potentially scratch fresh surface. You can actually feel that sharp edge after a pass.
I failed my first cylinder ring gap that for sure live and learn and keep forward
Just discovered the channel today....fantastic....thankyou from the uk
this is the best video by far there’s a lot of mistakes on other videos of people trying to do the same thing and I just want people to know check this video out first
Thanks Jay and Real st. Ordered Cp and eagle combo for my mr2 3sgte. Excellent prices and customer service. Cant wait till they get here. Cheers
Great info. I built my motor a few months ago but I watched this out of curiosity of what you set your gaps to. Seems like we think alike because I have the same guidelines lol
Thank you so much I’m staring a Yamaha r6 build but these basics are going to help me greatly
Perfect tutorial, thanks for your time man.
That's awesome detail keep the vid's coming
Jay ist the men! I wished real street performance had a branch in europe and i would bring my supra there for the engine build.
Most of this i'm across but gee it would have been a lot easier watching these videos first. No waffle, very clear explanation and demo. You really deserve the sub's and likes.
Thanks again mark
Excellent video! Appreciate you going beyond the basics with all of the tips and gotchas is super helpful! Have watched other vids on this same topic, but learned a ton about how to do this successfully.
Nice video. Though most everyone else, Mahle included recommends filing both sides as equally as possible.
This is super helpful. Thanks for posting.
You guys are awesome thanks so much for the tips 🤙🤙🤙
Your videos are the best. Really clear and fantastic explanation
Thanks so much for your support.
Thanks for this knowledge J👍🏽🔧
Awesome video! Super well explained. Lol although the guys expressions does look like he is either extremely tired or depressed as hell. But still a GREAT job thank you so much for the video!
Very useful and much appreciated. Thanks!
Thanks for such a informative video. I intend to rebuild engine of my Vauxhall Victor FB 1964 model, I am having difficulty in deciding which scrapper rings should I install, there is one piece cast iron rings and then there is thin steel rail type rings with expander and helper, which one would be better for a durable and longer service life? The engine is low rev., max five thousand rpm and 8.5:1 compression ratio. Your guidance in this regard would be highly appreciated. Thanks
High Performance Academy got me here. Subscribed
Very informative and detailed information. Great videos 👍
Really excellent video. Thanks.
Thanks for a great video
incredible and its a great eye opener
Great video - thanks for posting
Thank you for your expertise.
awesome video.
Some ring filers have various grits of filing wheels that come with. Is there an ideal grit size for this type of application?
Can you make a video of how to clean the carbon ridge of the cylinder top the right way/ right tools? Ridge reamer I think, but is there any other tool /solvent or tip can work it when the ridge is just thin? Also the carbon build up on the cylinder head side clean way will be good too. Thanks! Your video help me so much!
You guys are awesome
Very nicely explained.....!
I noticed you were cutting the right side and turning the cutter counter clockwise, would it be better to turn it clockwise to use the flat part of the cutters table to stabilize the ring to get a truer cut?
Nice video. What are your thoughts on filing the gap on over size piston rings? I have an air cooled motorcycle, a Honda XR650L single that comes stock with a 100mm bore. I rebuilt the top end a couple of years ago, which included a .5mm oversize bore and new piston set at .002" clearance at the skirt. Performed slow break-in and heat cycles. I checked the ring end gap with the Honda factory manual spec and to my surprise the new rings were almost at the service limit before assembly. That is, the gaps were already at the high end of the tolerance. I noticed this same trend on a few other XR650Ls I rebuilt for friends. Is there any draw back from buying 1.00mm oversize rings and precisely file the gap down to my current .5mm bore to the lower end of the gap tolerance? Any concerns about the extra ring tension against the cylinder walls? I am not worried about my skill as I am a retired machinist and have been working on engines for a long time. Thanks for your thoughts.
Thanks Jay for your help thanks
Awesome video
Thank you for this Jay!!
This was well done, but can you do a Continental IO-470E cylinder ring set now? Better yet, stop by and show me how it's done.
does it matter which direction the wheel turns while filing? and if so why? Thanks
Thank you 👍
If I dont have a jeweler's filer can I use 1000 grit sand paper as a alternative?
In general, how does someone know which side of the piston rings faces upwards towards the cylinder head?
Is on the rings,check the instrucciones or just ask in machine shop
This teaches me alot
Can you do a video
on measuring piston to deck and valve to piston clearances for selecting the proper head gasket?
We can add it to the list. Very few engines have the pistons above the deck, most however can have piston to valve clearance issues with aftermarket cams. You could correct piston to head with a gasket thickness change just keep in mind thick steel gaskets are harder for the deck and head to seal and IF you need to go to a thicker gasket I'd use a 5 layer before a 3 layer. You generally correct piston to valve with deeper/larger valve reliefs. Thank you.
Jay Meagher ohh cool man. Thanks for replying. I wasn’t even sure my comment would be seen Hahaha. I guess my main concern was the piston to valve clearance as I’m having a block and head in the process of being built and both will be resurfaced so I want to make sure I take the proper steps to measuring for the correct head gasket. I will be running an aftermarket cam. A GSC cam for a stroker 4g63 . I actually recently ordered a few parts from you guys. And definitely going to be placing a decent size order this week (Black Friday lol)
Thanks for the consideration on making those videos too.
@@yellowrice1453 Most of the aftermarket pistons have ample valve reliefs for aftermarket cams. It's best to use some clay and check it during mock up. Thanks for your support, we have a killer sale this year and I hope you save some money and get what you need.
Thank you good info but is all engine ring has the same gap
None of the video go into detail about the Oilers ring should they overlap when compressed to slide the piston in?
Were can I find the ring filler y thank you you got a new subscriber
Thank for tutorial but i have a question for you so what size of the filler gadge is good for petro engine and diesel engine 0.25 for petro engine ring top and and second and 0.15 for oil ring is that ok
Hi jst wondering if you could help. I've a subaru ej257 2.5 sti. Jst been bored to 100mm. I have cp pistons and the bottom rings oil ring there is only 1 of them on each piston packet with 1 tang, is this correct as I thought there should be 2 tangs. 1 on each oil ring. Also could you suggest ring gap for all rings thanks paul
New subscriber🔥🔥🔥🔥
I have noticed that CP pistons call for tighter gaps than Manley pistons. CP also calls for a larger gap on the 2nd ring and Manley does not. Do you happed to know the reason for this?
Thank you for this video. I recently purchased a freshly built shortblock sbf 363. The ring gaps are .019 according to the sheet. I know these were gapped for a N/A set up. I plan on running 10 psi boost at first then maybe 15 later on. Do you have a recommendation of what I should gap them at?
When I raced my Mustang (SBF) I tried different ring gaps to see if it would make a difference. I ran from .022 to .030 with 15-16psi of non intercooler boost and it didn't amount to any measurable difference. IF you overheat the ring and it butts the ring bends and the engine loses seal. I'd suggest this is an area of the engine that being on the loose side is better as "larger" ring gaps don't hurt your program. I'd start with .023 on the top and .027 on the second. That's a safe place to be. Good luck with your build and if it's high compression run some good Ethanol!
@@jaymeagher1510 thanks for the reply and info. Yes I don't want the ring.ends to touch. I'll be using my Strim vortech with a 4 inch on3 intercooler to start with because that's my current set up on my car now. I know the Strim is small for the new engine and will upgrade blowers hopefully next year. I havent bought the heads for it yet.but I'm trying to be around 9.5:1 to 10.1 compression. My charge temps normally stay below 100 degrees even on hot days.
@@Bobby4v I've been low 9's with the S trim so it's not exactly a "small" blower. As you increase blower size along with the intercooler you fight belt slip. If you're using pump fuel lower the compression more. It will live longer. The IAT sensors are pretty slow, be careful with trusting that information. Thanks
Hi
How much end gap is too much please
Specs gave 2nd ring. 016 rings out the packet 2nd ring. 023
Is this a bore problem or a ring problem as top ring is ok
Kind regards Dave
That’s a good one📌
excellent !
DAMN 2JZ GUYS N THEIR CLOSED DECK BLOCKS LOL
I think 0.007 per sq inch of piston on top ring will serve you well, 0.009 on the oil ring. On Naturally aspirated. I've seen 0.008 then 0.052 or gas/e85- street turbo
I was supposed to hit 24 on mine two are at 25 is that ok and if so my second ring also called for 24 should I take it to 25 to match the mess up
i have a 6.0 ls1 i am going to run twin gt45 turbos whats a good gap i was thinking 26 on the top ring and 30 thousands on the second ring i know you said you keep at least 4 to 5 thousands apart on the second ring
A tell tell sign you got the ring gap wrong is when you snap a ring land off, lol
So you would go .001 larger when not using a torque plate right? So in the example chart you display it says .0055 for top ring if blown. So you go .0065? Just checking. Also, what about bore or honing the cylinders, do you think using a torque plate isn’t necessary with big HP? I want to put forged pistons in my Viper but don’t love the expense of the torque plate.
Just go for it no torque plate needed
1st view, 1st comment.
Keep it up Jay!
1st one im gonna call gayyyy
Is that a boost only build or is there nitrous involved? Thank you
Excellent video but , time for JAY to start builds on Subaru engines and teach us that knowledge !!!
I started building EJ engines in 2007. I have quite a few of them under my belt. It's how Real St gained the trust from the guys at TRC. I built them an engine not knowing who they were and they beat the crap out of it and it lived well. After that they were good customers! I'm currently tuning a Motec in the first Subaru I ever built an engine for.
Am I mistaken in thinking you’re rotating the wheel the wrong direction? Making it go upward gives the chance of skipping and bouncing yeah? Spinning clockwise would give a more stable/safe grind.
Edit: disregard, learned something new today!
You want to file towards the side of the ring that's going to be up against the piston. The skipping and bouncing is a problem either way if you're loading the ring against the grinding wheel. It's a pretty gentle process. Thanks
@@jaymeagher1510 I actually just came back to say I found that it’s done correct here, and thank you for clarifying even more on the topic. I’m trying to learn as much as possible with all this stuff that people don’t generally cover.
@@Master_Psyper We're all in this together!
Awesome video.
is the target always going to be 0.0025? of an Inch? or does it vary per piston or cylinder wall ?
Ring gap will depend on application and cylinder bore size.
Every application will be different. The document that come with the pistons will help you calculate 👍🏼
Hi i have a bore size of 87.5 im hoping for 900hp or more range using cp pistons and rods your billet main caps and a holset hx55 what ring gap should I be running please any advice would be appreciated
These are amazing
B series 15 to 30 psi rings gap recommend
Can I use the old rings gap to gap my new rings? I have a 72mm bore and I can't get any rings but 73mm bore rings are available and I haven't find any information as yet to what my gap should be
OLÁ REAL 05/08/24 Ótimo vídeo e é a 1ª vez que vejo a averiguação correta da folga entre pontas dos setores de aço dos anéis de óleo.. Uma sugestão: pegue o setor de aço com apenas uma mão e pressione no diâmetro externo com 2 dedos, o médio e o dedão. Analise a deformação que ocorre no perfil e descobrirás o que e como é possível montar apenas de uma forma correta e 2 incorretas. Além de poder montar correto, na forma incorreta, numa delas poderás AUMENTAR a quantidade de óleo destinado aos anéis de compressão e de outra forma de montagem poderás DIMINUIR o volume de óleo para os demais anéis. Roberto Udo Krapf
Salve sono immerso in una situazione di limare le fasce del pistone perché non trovo il tipo di fasce con la misura che mi servono quindi ho presso un set di fasce maggiorate di 0.25mm la domanda è gli posso montare facendoli limare come nel video
Le fasce sembrano uguale a questi nel video
Grazie
With no instructions on how to install the rings, how does a person know what way the marks on the rings go towards top of the cylinder? I am talking about a 14 hp Kohler engine. Thanks
Thanks
Can you run your engine N/A if you've set it up for boost?