you all prolly dont give a shit but does any of you know a way to log back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Marvin Anthony Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Definitely not a boring video! Another production to help gauge your automotive knowledge, and thrust you to the next level of engine building. And for those leaving thumbs down, we know what you use your micrometers to measure.
This is a fantastic video! I do occasionally use an outside micrometer at work, for measuring axle diameters when rebuilding traction motors. One day during a rebuild, the guy who was building the motor said the axle wasn't going to work - it wasn't cut properly. He wasn't familiar with zeroing out the mic. Found out the mic was out by nearly 0.008" due to misuse and abuse, so after adjusting it, we determined the axle was well within tolerance.
I've been watching your videos for a while now, but now I'm actually rebuilding an engine myself, and I cannot thank you enough for clearly laying out how to use the bore gauge. I was coming up with some wacky numbers, but it was because I was zeroing against the piston skirt instead of zeroing to the factory bore size in the TSRM. Now I can get some accurate measurements on my 5M-GE before I take it to a machine shop. You also answered another question I had about determining new bore. I wasn't sure if I just picked a bore and hoped my new pistons fit, but now I see I need to get the oversize pistons first and do the bore calculations based on actual measurement of the pistons first! Guess I'm ordering pistons soon! Thank you so much!
I did an 'Instructable' a few years ago on correct way of measuring cylinder bores. (on a two stroke motorcycle) There are a couple of things that can make life easier. Pistons are almost always measured around 3/8"~10mm from bottom as the crown is always a lot smaller diameter because it has more mass and expands further at operating temperature. Check micrometer with a STANDARD, a gauge block is a different piece of equipment. After you set micrometer to size, set it on a piece of foam rubber laying flat. It's a very easy way to set bore gauge without any balancing act or risk of changing dimensions from body heat. You also need to note the counter dial (the little one in the middle) I have seen people get a full 1mm out as block they were measuring was already bored to max
I have been following your channel for many years, but start to feel more and more spooked out. Doesn't matter what I do in my garage a new D4A video about pretty much the same topic gets released shortly after: - I rebulid the suspension of my car wit Poly bushes-> D4A video abou rebuilding suspensions with Poly bushes - I replaced the factory speaker on my car -> D4A video abou replacing blown out speakers - porting a cylinder head -> D4A video about porting cylinder heads -I finally decide to do something else, buy a clapped out motorbike, fail to make it run and have it sit in the back of my garage eating up space -> D4A miniseries on an old motorbike. Guess what I had in mind a month ago. I don't belive in telepathy, but I start to feel watched. Thank you for your very informative video though. I'd just have some doubts about the accuracy of those cheap no-name measuring instruments. I personally own a small collection of old japanese and german tools that I partially inherited or bought second hand. I just don't know if they are much better after being used for decades. At the end I decided to just bring the block to a trustworthy machine shop and have it checked.
Everything you said in the first 2 minutes is exactly how I feel. Plus I'd rather save the money and do it myself. I've had a full set of budget engine measuring tools in my save for later cart for ages now. 😄
Absolutely love the detail you go into. Far too many just glaze right over important things like thrust load direction etc. Top notch quality as always!
I have a bore gauge, as I used to rebore motorcycle cylinders, back when that was a thing, in the seventies and eighties. Straight, round, and the right size, and everyone is happy, especially the piston.
Not a bad way to spend Valentine's Day, eh!? I was going to post a comment about how the cheap micrometers and bore gauges only have 10 micron gradations. I recently blew a significant amount for a 1 micron grade Mitutoyo dial gauge and micrometer. But just realised that I very rarely need to call upon that level of accuracy. And that the much cheaper 10 micron locally-made-cheap versions are the ones I use the most and that is the level that most factory manuals seem to need. Their ability to withstand wear and tear in carefully used home mechanic environment is quite acceptable too. Thank you for an important lesson in matching tools to needs, rather than always blowing the bank trying to buy the "best".
This is an excellent tutorial video and one I am very grateful for you posting and sharing your knowledge - I totally effed this up on my first try before seeing this video and ended up with the gauge going mental! Once I had zeroed the dial gauge properly using your video, I ended up with cylinders that were either near enough bang on or at most in the middle of the tolerance. Went from dire straits to happy days in one vid!
Definitely doing my Miata spare block. See what happens. If it checks out good for the amount of overbore to clean pitting (looks a lot like this old 4agze) then I'll be doing some oddball mix and matching of factory parts if I can get the numbers right and without sky high compression. Cams will be custom grinds, Nissan valves and guides, far as I can tell, we'll see on base circle reduction when done, using zetec lifters, volvo or 4G63 valve springs, and doing most of the shimming on the valve stem if possible. Mild hand port, mostly just bowl blend, unshroud and radiusing. BP heads sorta just suck, as does the rod ratio. Should be able to get a 1.5mm over rebuild at the cost of OEM rebuild parts, with a healthy compression increase and hotter cams. I'm shooting for a 160whp N/A 1.8.... because we Mazda folk weren't blessed with 4ages, 3sge beams, or b series.
Great Video but small Mistake When calibrating the micrometer do not clean the measuring surfaces with your finger. You always have a tiny amount of moisture on your skin (fingerprint). Use paper to clean the surfaces. Best is some printer paper that doesn't leave particles behind. The micrometer has shown 0.02 mm too much. That is typically the difference from clean to have a fingerprint there.
I appreciate what you do and how you do that. "There is nothing more practical than a good theory". Would you do a video on the reasoning behind piston pin offset? Cheers
Nice Video ; Try using a "Dial Bore Setting Fixture" . If folks use a micrometer to set their dial bores , it's not what you would need for such . Try using a digital type "Sunnen" dial bore gauge . They also come with a calibrated Sunnen setting fixture . The method shown in the video could easily become a tricky/dicey thing for some of the machinists 101 type folks . To plug in quality assurance in a finished machined cylinder , anyone would be better off with a three fingered digital dial bore gauge . Try , you will like it !
Thank you for sharing such great and helpful info for us. If someone cant borrow and want to only buy one of the two tools. Get the Dial Bore Gauge Engine Cylinder Measure Gauge. you can see and measure these points' measurement differences.
Great stuff,. Very informative, and I appreciate the stressing of zeroing the instruments. One quibble: I was taught to say "decimal three eight" as opposed to thirty-eight because thirty-eight is a whole number whereas the aforementioned decimal or point three eight is, of course, a fraction of one. This was stressed so much that even decades later it's painful to hear anyone mixing whole numbers and fractions in that way. A pity for me since it's a rather common mistake!
Very interesting. I've never heard of that stressed so much. Though I'm not professional machinist. American as well. I would usually say "point three eight" or "point thirty-eight" comfortably. Now that I say it out loud, I think I would usually prefer the former when measuring. We might of course say "thirty-eight thou" for 0.0038 though. Which adds a layer of confusion. However, I would rarely say the whole number in a decimal unless it's in the tenths place. I wouldn't say "point zero thirty-eight" for 0.038 I would say "point zero three eight" so perhaps it's pretty standard across the board, but with the tenths exception? Would make sense to keep it uniform. Just rambling as I think about your post. :D
@@802Garage It was mathematics class and that's not a profession that looks kindly on imprecision!. Thirty-eight thou is absolutely correct terminology since we're counting thousandths and there are thirty eight of them.
I'm self taught on all of this 😅. Saying 38 thou is really hard for me as it comes out super weird and unnatural. Decimal three eight I never even heard as I had math in my mother tongue and we said it like I say it, I just translate to English in my head. But videos are great because you can put actual numbers on the screen 😊
Thank you for the info. Getting ready to rebuild my first engine on an extreme budget, an lt1. It’s low miles 81k) and overheated and popped at least one head gasket so I’m learning as much as I can. It was already torn down and coated in a nice coat of grease. I’m sure the cylinders are in great shape but don’t know if they are out of round. I’m probably gonna throw new bearing and rings in it since it’s already torn down and since I’m going that far I might as well make sure they aren’t out of round. Though if the bearings look good I might just button it back up clean it really well and leave the rings alone. My big concern is that the heads aren’t warped.
Depending on their size, you may need to take the rods to a shop to have them checked. Generally though, as long as you are the one doing the measuring and assembly, even if your measurements are off by 0.001" or so, everything you're measuring is, and it will all work out in the end. When you use the same tools to calibrate everything, all the measurements will match each other and you won't have odd discrepancies.
@@zorg1396 Currently i am trying to film the rebuild and make series out of it but briefly will mention whats the main differences: B30 vs other engines b25/b28 etc. B30 has more displacement , it has better intake cam. The other ones especially b28 can be build to have similar or more horsepower with the intake cam from b30 or better (Schrick for example, and other goodies too long to write) All m54 have issues with pistons rings wearing and letting a lot of blow by and high oil consumption, with the m52b28tu you dont have these issues. B30 has longer stroke and has huge harmonic dis-balance after 6,5k rpm which ends up ripping the oil pump and not letting you rev the car safely past 6,8k(unless you spend shit tons of money) B28 has square cylinder design 84x84mm and is excellent for high revving. I am sending mine to 7,3k with custom camshafts and other goodies. It will have close to 100hp/L . So it is a hybrid as it will use management system and mostly of fuel system from M54 but remain 2,8l to avoid the harmonic issues. Hope that helps ;)
Man what are you qualified in, because you know so much about engines , like are you a professional mechanic ? or an Engineer? I'm a student in Mechanical Engineering
Excellent amigo. Want to share about cylinders that get catalyst in them from excessive valve lap. The middle of the liner can be up to .040 over but cannot be seen by your eye. I found out the hard way after honing and new rings/valves with no increase in compression. It was my fault for not using an inside micrometer !
Yes it is I agree with you 100% so much valuable information that they provide is helping me a lot learn so much thank you guys do you guys are killing it easy to understand Keep it up guys
Your comment doesn't really dignify a response, but I'll respond anyway just in case someone reads it and thinks it's true. This is my 12th engine rebuild. Three of these were my own engines, the remaining ones belonged to others but I have directly worked on them and consulted. But even if one had never rebuilt an engine before there is no reason why that would impact making and publishing a video. What's important is the quality and accuracy.
Thats a really Good video about how to messure the bore. Maybe but i think you already did that, you can also do videos about the main and connecting rod bearing.
Last time i was inspecting my block i didn't even need bore gauge. I could feel thrust wear by finger :p It was almost 0.5mm out of spec in top of the stroke
It would make an interesting video on how accurate the Chinese measiring tools are compared to quality ones. I was thinking of buying the same ones a few months ago as you used, but changed my mind for accuracy concerns.
For measuring taper and out of round, it could be set wrong, but you will still see a problem in different measurements. Accuracy is important, but even if they are off its still a useful tool
When you are measuring cylinder bore it could be normal, that the dimensions are out of round. When you tighten the head, the block deforms a little bit. That's why the better engine builders/machinists use torque plates to simulate the load of the head when they hone cylinders.
Still waiting on that video of the RB26 or the Ford FE series or Chevy small block. Also, where is your accent from? I can't for the life of me figure it out
5:51, what you mean by that is when the needle goes clockwise all the way to the furthest direction, correct? Not CCW? I love the pictures really beautiful knowledge, keep it up D4A
The Land Rover V8 4.6L manual doesn't give a max diameter. The bore is just secified as 94.000mm to 94.015mm. It only says max out of round of 0.013mm. Clearance is specified at 0.015mm to 0.045mm, so pretty tight. How much wear is allowable? Your MR2 seems to allow 0.2mm, sounds like a lot!
Get ring off piston measure gap put ring in bore top, bottom and middle only bottom and top off bore will taper not middle.1 measure ring gap which will give you any tapering at top and bottom 2 same thing put ring at top bottom and middle use a torch at bottom off bore to see if any light pass through ring edge and cylinder wall.poor man's way.peace
Where did you learn all these things you are explain us here? Follow you quite some time now and watched most of your vids. Would love to know where you got those infos from. Greetings from switzerland
Hi brother. Thank you for your explaining. Good luck. Answer my questions please... Does a cylinder block metal type affect these values formula, that you explain end of the video? (Cast iron, aluminium)
The formula is based on piston to wall clearance which needs to be checked for each individual engine. The piston to wall clearance depends on many factors and there's no universal formula. The allowance for honing is usually similar for most engines, but double check that too.
When you are doing these measurements how are you reading the guage (Inside bore Thrust and non-thrust). When I was looking at the gauges I read the dial as pointing to between the 90 and 0. How did that give you 81.01 to 81.04? Was it subtraction, or perhaps tilt of the guage dial?
have a question, i was given a 08 colbalt 2.2L had a spun bearing on connecting rod cylinder 1. alot of score markes i was able to hone out. problem now is cylinder one if I put a oil ring in has a slight gap between ring and wall. if the cylinder is oiled you would never see it. without oil and a flash light you can see the slightest light right along one skirt side wall I mean slight. starts approx an inch from top to two inches from bottom. would this be a major issue requiring a rebore...thanks
Hi there, Please help, I've got a Nissan NP200 & recently repaired the cylinder head & replaced the intake manifold. I noticed that whenever I change gears, the engine revs a little bit higher than usual. What may be the cause for this?
0-150MM 0.01mm/0.0004 Inch Outside Micrometer set
ban.ggood.vip/WVod
50mm-160mm 0.01mm Digital Dial Bore Gauge Engine Cylinder Measure Gauge Measuring Tool Kit
bit.ly/36jYWQI
you all prolly dont give a shit but does any of you know a way to log back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Kyler Carl instablaster ;)
@Marvin Anthony Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Marvin Anthony it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out!
@Kyler Carl No problem :D
This channel is criminally underrated. Thanks for all the knowledge !
Couldn't agree anymore.
Absolutely
Definitely not a boring video! Another production to help gauge your automotive knowledge, and thrust you to the next level of engine building.
And for those leaving thumbs down, we know what you use your micrometers to measure.
I really liked your comment especially at the end ! I wonder how many readers picked up on that. God bless.
Those leaving thumbs down probably use bore gauges not micrometers.
@@igorvashkov8821 sounds like you are an expert at all those bore gauges! 😂
@@atlasintegrations4114 Why would I be one? I always leave thumbs up on this channel!
😂
I don't know how you can dislike this guys content...should be a crime
Nah, for this video, it's angry machinists trying to shut down the idea of checking to see if they're hosing you. Lol
They are just angry serbians who cant get over the war :D
This is a fantastic video!
I do occasionally use an outside micrometer at work, for measuring axle diameters when rebuilding traction motors.
One day during a rebuild, the guy who was building the motor said the axle wasn't going to work - it wasn't cut properly. He wasn't familiar with zeroing out the mic.
Found out the mic was out by nearly 0.008" due to misuse and abuse, so after adjusting it, we determined the axle was well within tolerance.
I've been watching your videos for a while now, but now I'm actually rebuilding an engine myself, and I cannot thank you enough for clearly laying out how to use the bore gauge. I was coming up with some wacky numbers, but it was because I was zeroing against the piston skirt instead of zeroing to the factory bore size in the TSRM. Now I can get some accurate measurements on my 5M-GE before I take it to a machine shop. You also answered another question I had about determining new bore. I wasn't sure if I just picked a bore and hoped my new pistons fit, but now I see I need to get the oversize pistons first and do the bore calculations based on actual measurement of the pistons first! Guess I'm ordering pistons soon! Thank you so much!
I did an 'Instructable' a few years ago on correct way of measuring cylinder bores. (on a two stroke motorcycle)
There are a couple of things that can make life easier. Pistons are almost always measured around 3/8"~10mm from bottom as the crown is always a lot smaller diameter because it has more mass and expands further at operating temperature. Check micrometer with a STANDARD, a gauge block is a different piece of equipment.
After you set micrometer to size, set it on a piece of foam rubber laying flat. It's a very easy way to set bore gauge without any balancing act or risk of changing dimensions from body heat. You also need to note the counter dial (the little one in the middle) I have seen people get a full 1mm out as block they were measuring was already bored to max
I have been following your channel for many years, but start to feel more and more spooked out. Doesn't matter what I do in my garage a new D4A video about pretty much the same topic gets released shortly after:
- I rebulid the suspension of my car wit Poly bushes-> D4A video abou rebuilding suspensions with Poly bushes
- I replaced the factory speaker on my car -> D4A video abou replacing blown out speakers
- porting a cylinder head -> D4A video about porting cylinder heads
-I finally decide to do something else, buy a clapped out motorbike, fail to make it run and have it sit in the back of my garage eating up space -> D4A miniseries on an old motorbike.
Guess what I had in mind a month ago. I don't belive in telepathy, but I start to feel watched.
Thank you for your very informative video though. I'd just have some doubts about the accuracy of those cheap no-name measuring instruments. I personally own a small collection of old japanese and german tools that I partially inherited or bought second hand. I just don't know if they are much better after being used for decades. At the end I decided to just bring the block to a trustworthy machine shop and have it checked.
Everything you said in the first 2 minutes is exactly how I feel. Plus I'd rather save the money and do it myself. I've had a full set of budget engine measuring tools in my save for later cart for ages now. 😄
@Donovan Piko Thanks you too. 😁
Absolutely love the detail you go into. Far too many just glaze right over important things like thrust load direction etc. Top notch quality as always!
I have a bore gauge, as I used to rebore motorcycle cylinders, back when that was a thing, in the seventies and eighties. Straight, round, and the right size, and everyone is happy, especially the piston.
Especially the piston 😁
Not a bad way to spend Valentine's Day, eh!?
I was going to post a comment about how the cheap micrometers and bore gauges only have 10 micron gradations. I recently blew a significant amount for a 1 micron grade Mitutoyo dial gauge and micrometer. But just realised that I very rarely need to call upon that level of accuracy. And that the much cheaper 10 micron locally-made-cheap versions are the ones I use the most and that is the level that most factory manuals seem to need. Their ability to withstand wear and tear in carefully used home mechanic environment is quite acceptable too.
Thank you for an important lesson in matching tools to needs, rather than always blowing the bank trying to buy the "best".
This is an excellent tutorial video and one I am very grateful for you posting and sharing your knowledge - I totally effed this up on my first try before seeing this video and ended up with the gauge going mental! Once I had zeroed the dial gauge properly using your video, I ended up with cylinders that were either near enough bang on or at most in the middle of the tolerance. Went from dire straits to happy days in one vid!
I really enjoy learning new stuff for the car so keep like that.
Appreciate you. Other videos I watched make it so difficult to understand using a dial bore gauge. You are concise and simplistic. Thanks again.
This is by far the most helpful video for us starter DIY engine builder.. thank you so much sensei.! 🤲
Just the video I needed after I took apart the smallport I bought. From the suspension videos to this, been a lot of help with my mr2!!!
i don't know if i ever gonna need this knowledge in a possible future, but i'm glad i now have this knowledge
Very detailed, I really like the order of the information being presented. To the point, and very descriptive. Excellent
Definitely doing my Miata spare block. See what happens. If it checks out good for the amount of overbore to clean pitting (looks a lot like this old 4agze) then I'll be doing some oddball mix and matching of factory parts if I can get the numbers right and without sky high compression. Cams will be custom grinds, Nissan valves and guides, far as I can tell, we'll see on base circle reduction when done, using zetec lifters, volvo or 4G63 valve springs, and doing most of the shimming on the valve stem if possible. Mild hand port, mostly just bowl blend, unshroud and radiusing. BP heads sorta just suck, as does the rod ratio. Should be able to get a 1.5mm over rebuild at the cost of OEM rebuild parts, with a healthy compression increase and hotter cams. I'm shooting for a 160whp N/A 1.8.... because we Mazda folk weren't blessed with 4ages, 3sge beams, or b series.
Great Video but small Mistake
When calibrating the micrometer do not clean the measuring surfaces with your finger. You always have a tiny amount of moisture on your skin (fingerprint). Use paper to clean the surfaces. Best is some printer paper that doesn't leave particles behind. The micrometer has shown 0.02 mm too much. That is typically the difference from clean to have a fingerprint there.
I appreciate what you do and how you do that. "There is nothing more practical than a good theory". Would you do a video on the reasoning behind piston pin offset? Cheers
Nice Video ; Try using a "Dial Bore Setting Fixture" . If folks use a micrometer to set their dial bores , it's not what you would need for such . Try using a digital type "Sunnen" dial bore gauge . They also come with a calibrated Sunnen setting fixture . The method shown in the video could easily become a tricky/dicey thing for some of the machinists 101 type folks . To plug in quality assurance in a finished machined cylinder , anyone would be better off with a three fingered digital dial bore gauge . Try , you will like it !
Thank you for sharing such great and helpful info for us. If someone cant borrow and want to only buy one of the two tools. Get the Dial Bore Gauge Engine Cylinder Measure Gauge. you can see and measure these points' measurement differences.
Great stuff,. Very informative, and I appreciate the stressing of zeroing the instruments. One quibble: I was taught to say "decimal three eight" as opposed to thirty-eight because thirty-eight is a whole number whereas the aforementioned decimal or point three eight is, of course, a fraction of one. This was stressed so much that even decades later it's painful to hear anyone mixing whole numbers and fractions in that way. A pity for me since it's a rather common mistake!
Very interesting. I've never heard of that stressed so much. Though I'm not professional machinist. American as well. I would usually say "point three eight" or "point thirty-eight" comfortably. Now that I say it out loud, I think I would usually prefer the former when measuring. We might of course say "thirty-eight thou" for 0.0038 though. Which adds a layer of confusion. However, I would rarely say the whole number in a decimal unless it's in the tenths place. I wouldn't say "point zero thirty-eight" for 0.038 I would say "point zero three eight" so perhaps it's pretty standard across the board, but with the tenths exception? Would make sense to keep it uniform. Just rambling as I think about your post. :D
@@802Garage It was mathematics class and that's not a profession that looks kindly on imprecision!. Thirty-eight thou is absolutely correct terminology since we're counting thousandths and there are thirty eight of them.
I'm self taught on all of this 😅. Saying 38 thou is really hard for me as it comes out super weird and unnatural. Decimal three eight I never even heard as I had math in my mother tongue and we said it like I say it, I just translate to English in my head. But videos are great because you can put actual numbers on the screen 😊
At this rate I will be able to build my very own MR2 Toyota motor in no time.
Step one find a rustless mr2
@@bobross6677 step two find some rusty tools. lol
Thank you for the info. Getting ready to rebuild my first engine on an extreme budget, an lt1. It’s low miles 81k) and overheated and popped at least one head gasket so I’m learning as much as I can. It was already torn down and coated in a nice coat of grease. I’m sure the cylinders are in great shape but don’t know if they are out of round. I’m probably gonna throw new bearing and rings in it since it’s already torn down and since I’m going that far I might as well make sure they aren’t out of round. Though if the bearings look good I might just button it back up clean it really well and leave the rings alone. My big concern is that the heads aren’t warped.
This is an awesome channel and very solid accurate information ... Keep up the good content
I was looking at buying a bore gauge for a while now and im happy to buy it with your link :D
Wished you were my instructor during My engineering years !! Hats off sir !!
Currently assembling my new pistons. How ironic! Will double check those bores.
You should always check if the measuring rods that came with the cheap micrometer sett is accurate with a good caliper if you have one.
Depending on their size, you may need to take the rods to a shop to have them checked.
Generally though, as long as you are the one doing the measuring and assembly, even if your measurements are off by 0.001" or so, everything you're measuring is, and it will all work out in the end.
When you use the same tools to calibrate everything, all the measurements will match each other and you won't have odd discrepancies.
Excellent info, just about to start making a hybrid engine from m54b30 and m52b28tu to m54b28 :) Will definitely use this knowledge now.
What's the advantage of this? :)
@@zorg1396 Currently i am trying to film the rebuild and make series out of it but briefly will mention whats the main differences:
B30 vs other engines b25/b28 etc.
B30 has more displacement , it has better intake cam.
The other ones especially b28 can be build to have similar or more horsepower with the intake cam from b30 or better (Schrick for example, and other goodies too long to write)
All m54 have issues with pistons rings wearing and letting a lot of blow by and high oil consumption, with the m52b28tu you dont have these issues.
B30 has longer stroke and has huge harmonic dis-balance after 6,5k rpm which ends up ripping the oil pump and not letting you rev the car safely past 6,8k(unless you spend shit tons of money)
B28 has square cylinder design 84x84mm and is excellent for high revving. I am sending mine to 7,3k with custom camshafts and other goodies.
It will have close to 100hp/L .
So it is a hybrid as it will use management system and mostly of fuel system from M54 but remain 2,8l to avoid the harmonic issues.
Hope that helps ;)
4:35 Thank you for showing how to zero the micrometer with the 75mm calibration block.
I always done this job with an angle grinder. So probably this is why my engine still has some issues.
you always come with so much knowledge thank you so much for educating me !
thank's or this video! all the best from Brazil!
IF a torque plate is used to bore the block, wouldn't it make some cylinders out of round when not bolted?
Very good guide! May come useful in future!
Man what are you qualified in, because you know so much about engines , like are you a professional mechanic ? or an Engineer? I'm a student in Mechanical Engineering
best day ever ! ! !
Very well explained,nice video thanks very much
Bang good that's what she said. Joking aside good stuff to put out sir.
Excellent amigo. Want to share about cylinders that get catalyst in them from excessive valve lap. The middle of the liner can be up to .040 over but cannot be seen by your eye. I found out the hard way after honing and new rings/valves with no increase in compression. It was my fault for not using an inside micrometer !
Yes it is I agree with you 100% so much valuable information that they provide is helping me a lot learn so much thank you guys do you guys are killing it easy to understand Keep it up guys
this guy building his first engine and making videos along the way, acting like he's a master engineer
Your comment doesn't really dignify a response, but I'll respond anyway just in case someone reads it and thinks it's true. This is my 12th engine rebuild. Three of these were my own engines, the remaining ones belonged to others but I have directly worked on them and consulted. But even if one had never rebuilt an engine before there is no reason why that would impact making and publishing a video. What's important is the quality and accuracy.
that was AWESOME !
simple comprehensible and perfect
many thanks to U
Thats a really Good video about how to messure the bore.
Maybe but i think you already did that, you can also do videos about the main and connecting rod bearing.
Will do bearing clearances for sure 👍
Theses videos are awesome thanks! 👍
In my experience it is also good to check after machining.
True! Can't check enough
Very good explanation
Thanks a lot for all those explanations
Last time i was inspecting my block i didn't even need bore gauge. I could feel thrust wear by finger :p It was almost 0.5mm out of spec in top of the stroke
+1. I could see the ridge on mine without using the fingcrometer.
this has been so helpful, when I pass my ase I will drink to you :)
Good information
Thank you for the educational video
Perfect video and perfect explanation....as always
Good job.
Great channel
Very good guide 👍
It would make an interesting video on how accurate the Chinese measiring tools are compared to quality ones. I was thinking of buying the same ones a few months ago as you used, but changed my mind for accuracy concerns.
For measuring taper and out of round, it could be set wrong, but you will still see a problem in different measurements. Accuracy is important, but even if they are off its still a useful tool
Outstanding.. the best out there I believe!!
Amazing channel!!
I really want to thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Really it's a great helpful video.
Very good information. Thank you!
Awesome video 👍👍😊
hello from iraq with you well done
Great video , many thanks 🙏🙏🙏
ഡേയ് പിള്ളേരെ വായോ ഇബിടെ കാമോൺ💥 MMV💥
mans out here teaching us how to work at a machine shop FOR FREE
Excelent video; thanks.
Thank you for the education its good to know.
As always...great content !
When you are measuring cylinder bore it could be normal, that the dimensions are out of round. When you tighten the head, the block deforms a little bit. That's why the better engine builders/machinists use torque plates to simulate the load of the head when they hone cylinders.
That is covered in a separate D4A video.
Odlican info, hvala!
Fuck yeah this is the exact guide I've needed to see
Yeah baby! Better than a 3rd date.. (if I ever get to one)
Great vid! THX!
maximise it!. MAke it 83mm pistons....u got more POWAAAAHH
Yes we do take stuff to the machine shop until we get everything back together and find out all cylinders are pushing 70psi max compression.
Still waiting on that video of the RB26 or the Ford FE series or Chevy small block. Also, where is your accent from? I can't for the life of me figure it out
5:51, what you mean by that is when the needle goes clockwise all the way to the furthest direction, correct? Not CCW? I love the pictures
really beautiful knowledge, keep it up D4A
The Land Rover V8 4.6L manual doesn't give a max diameter. The bore is just secified as 94.000mm to 94.015mm. It only says max out of round of 0.013mm. Clearance is specified at 0.015mm to 0.045mm, so pretty tight. How much wear is allowable? Your MR2 seems to allow 0.2mm, sounds like a lot!
I would love to get more in depth especially in the formula and if possible where to search its. Thanks in advance your fan from Algeria
Get ring off piston measure gap put ring in bore top, bottom and middle only bottom and top off bore will taper not middle.1 measure ring gap which will give you any tapering at top and bottom 2 same thing put ring at top bottom and middle use a torch at bottom off bore to see if any light pass through ring edge and cylinder wall.poor man's way.peace
nice video
Are you going to take us through the whole process in future videos?
I will do more hands on videos like this in the future. Bearing clearances, ring gaps etc. If that's what you meant?
on thrust side their we can see vertically scratches so the liner should change or not
Where did you learn all these things you are explain us here? Follow you quite some time now and watched most of your vids. Would love to know where you got those infos from.
Greetings from switzerland
Hi brother. Thank you for your explaining. Good luck.
Answer my questions please...
Does a cylinder block metal type affect these values formula, that you explain end of the video? (Cast iron, aluminium)
The formula is based on piston to wall clearance which needs to be checked for each individual engine. The piston to wall clearance depends on many factors and there's no universal formula. The allowance for honing is usually similar for most engines, but double check that too.
Hay, what about the dial gauge? how do I set the indicator plunger into the extension for the bore value?
When honing are 220 grit honing stones suitable for final cross hatch on Japanese motorcycles? Mabe some one can help.
When you are doing these measurements how are you reading the guage (Inside bore Thrust and non-thrust). When I was looking at the gauges I read the dial as pointing to between the 90 and 0. How did that give you 81.01 to 81.04? Was it subtraction, or perhaps tilt of the guage dial?
can you use those telescoping T measuring tools for this and micrometer or is it just not accurate enough? i ask just because how easy they are to use
mantap bos,i like
have a question, i was given a 08 colbalt 2.2L had a spun bearing on connecting rod cylinder 1. alot of score markes i was able to hone out. problem now is cylinder one if I put a oil ring in has a slight gap between ring and wall. if the cylinder is oiled you would never see it. without oil and a flash light you can see the slightest light right along one skirt side wall I mean slight. starts approx an inch from top to two inches from bottom. would this be a major issue requiring a rebore...thanks
Hi there,
Please help, I've got a Nissan NP200 & recently repaired the cylinder head & replaced the intake manifold. I noticed that whenever I change gears, the engine revs a little bit higher than usual. What may be the cause for this?
Hi , i’m just wondering why does the bore gauge goes anti clockwise instead of clockwise when measuring?
4A-GE Unbreakable
10/10