This spring I hope to wash up my little "A" and get some paint on it. Not planning on anything perfect probably a rattle can but I will take the time to clean it and sand it. Its gonna be a work tractor so it doesn't need to be perfect. Awesome video, your dad seems like a pretty cool person.
The first step to a quality and long lasting paint job is to clean EVERYTHING until you think it's perfectly clean then, clean it AGAIN! If you want to take it to bare metal, I recommend soda blasting over sand blasting. Soda blasting won't heat up thin sheet metal and cause it do warp like sand blasting does. If you do take it to bare metal, you'll have to use an etching primer first, then a "high build" primer (what your dad was trying to think of) to fill in the small imperfections in the metal. I've done some body and paint in the past but mechanical is what I really enjoy. Fortunately, my daughter took collision repair classes in high school and continued them through trade school so she's my "body guy" on projects these days. As a matter of fact, she just finished the final prep work on my D-17 over the weekend and plans to lay down the finish coats, decals and clear coats on Lil Allis over Thanksgiving weekend. We'll be adding just a hint of metal flake to the Persian Orange to fancy her up a little lol! One more thing...that Farmall emblem has most likely been there since the tractor left the factory, therefore, the paint underneath should be well protected from the elements. If so, take the hood, grill shell or whatever it's attached to with you to the paint store and have them color match it and mix the paint for you.
"You want to put the pencil to it" is the key bit of advice in the video. Getting some paint on it that can protect the tractor from further deterioration with low cost solutions can be as important for a working tractor as trying to sand/fill/premium-paints/shine up a parade tractor. Sharpen the pencil. Last tractor I 'painted' all the badly faded tin with wipe on boiled linseed oil cut by 1/3rd spirits which brought the 'shine' back. Before that on another tractor I bought a $35 gallon of rustoleum in the closest color, degreased/removed-tin/taped-up, then used my Harbor Freight $20 'purple sprayer' with $50 air compressor and got it protected from the elements (and neighbors won't freak out about there being an old rusty tractor next door). It looks good in pictures and will work for most parades from ten feet away -- but it's a working tractor that has been pushing snow this winter after plowing last fall..
Your Father is quite a guy. He knows what he’s talking about. I’m not too certain about the “midnight car wash”….that might be a bit tricky. A good pressure washer with an environmentally friendly grease cutting solvent in it would get the job done and you/he can be as fussy as you wish. The tractor is a gem….everything there and in great condition…well worth doing up. This would be a great winter project for your Dad if you’ve got a heated shop with a cement floor for him to work in…on his own time of course. Your Dad looks to be in pretty good shape. Great video Doc ,thanks for posting it.
Your Dad's experience speaks well. A sandblaster or some wire wheels before you go after it with the sand paper is the best starts, along with the degreasing. Priming is vital, then if you want a show finish on it you'll need to fill and block it so there are no dips or wrinkles in the tin.
I saw a 961 Ford at a Deere dealer that was painted Green and Yellow. It looked nice, but it wasn't right. I am sorry it should have been done either in Red or Blue with Pearl.
Some places do carry Old Farmall red paint already mixed up. Bet it looks nice after the paint dries. Like your dad says, the temperature of coating applications, steel temp, and no humidity is paramount for a lasting finish.
Was the tractor ever painted- I’m looking forward to the next video to gain additional information before starting to paint my 140 international - Gary
Those are called Dupont restorations when they just paint over everything and send it out I've accidentally bought a couple of those on online auctions kind of pisses you off when you get home and you see what they did
THESE POOR GUYS didnt even mention,the sheet metal needs pulled and hung on wires....they are critical of others,and their poor paint jobs,crooked decals ,ect...but l dont see them ever really doing this...they are just talking!
HES WAY OFF SAYING CHEAP TRACTOR PAINT,left outside for two months,in the can,TURNED RED INTO ORANGE ,then white!..the only step up from Orsheln paint is acrylic enamel at 5TIMES THE COST,,,
This spring I hope to wash up my little "A" and get some paint on it. Not planning on anything perfect probably a rattle can but I will take the time to clean it and sand it. Its gonna be a work tractor so it doesn't need to be perfect. Awesome video, your dad seems like a pretty cool person.
The first step to a quality and long lasting paint job is to clean EVERYTHING until you think it's perfectly clean then, clean it AGAIN!
If you want to take it to bare metal, I recommend soda blasting over sand blasting. Soda blasting won't heat up thin sheet metal and cause it do warp like sand blasting does. If you do take it to bare metal, you'll have to use an etching primer first, then a "high build" primer (what your dad was trying to think of) to fill in the small imperfections in the metal.
I've done some body and paint in the past but mechanical is what I really enjoy. Fortunately, my daughter took collision repair classes in high school and continued them through trade school so she's my "body guy" on projects these days. As a matter of fact, she just finished the final prep work on my D-17 over the weekend and plans to lay down the finish coats, decals and clear coats on Lil Allis over Thanksgiving weekend. We'll be adding just a hint of metal flake to the Persian Orange to fancy her up a little lol!
One more thing...that Farmall emblem has most likely been there since the tractor left the factory, therefore, the paint underneath should be well protected from the elements. If so, take the hood, grill shell or whatever it's attached to with you to the paint store and have them color match it and mix the paint for you.
Thanks doc hope to see your dad more
"You want to put the pencil to it" is the key bit of advice in the video. Getting some paint on it that can protect the tractor from further deterioration with low cost solutions can be as important for a working tractor as trying to sand/fill/premium-paints/shine up a parade tractor. Sharpen the pencil. Last tractor I 'painted' all the badly faded tin with wipe on boiled linseed oil cut by 1/3rd spirits which brought the 'shine' back. Before that on another tractor I bought a $35 gallon of rustoleum in the closest color, degreased/removed-tin/taped-up, then used my Harbor Freight $20 'purple sprayer' with $50 air compressor and got it protected from the elements (and neighbors won't freak out about there being an old rusty tractor next door). It looks good in pictures and will work for most parades from ten feet away -- but it's a working tractor that has been pushing snow this winter after plowing last fall..
Good timing of video. Planning on putting some paint on my 8n this winter while I don't need to use it.
Your Father is quite a guy. He knows what he’s talking about. I’m not too certain about the “midnight car wash”….that might be a bit tricky. A good pressure washer with an environmentally friendly grease cutting solvent in it would get the job done and you/he can be as fussy as you wish. The tractor is a gem….everything there and in great condition…well worth doing up. This would be a great winter project for your Dad if you’ve got a heated shop with a cement floor for him to work in…on his own time of course. Your Dad looks to be in pretty good shape. Great video Doc ,thanks for posting it.
Your Dad's experience speaks well. A sandblaster or some wire wheels before you go after it with the sand paper is the best starts, along with the degreasing. Priming is vital, then if you want a show finish on it you'll need to fill and block it so there are no dips or wrinkles in the tin.
I saw a 961 Ford at a Deere dealer that was painted Green and Yellow. It looked nice, but it wasn't right. I am sorry it should have been done either in Red or Blue with Pearl.
Some places do carry Old Farmall red paint already mixed up. Bet it looks nice after the paint dries. Like your dad says, the temperature of coating applications, steel temp, and no humidity is paramount for a lasting finish.
Was the tractor ever painted- I’m looking forward to the next video to gain additional information before starting to paint my 140 international - Gary
Lol did i hear that right? Get into my dandruff. Im gonna use that thank you. Good video.
Those are called Dupont restorations when they just paint over everything and send it out I've accidentally bought a couple of those on online auctions kind of pisses you off when you get home and you see what they did
DOC ITS UR TURN TO SHINE
🤠🤠🤠
THESE POOR GUYS didnt even mention,the sheet metal needs pulled and hung on wires....they are critical of others,and their poor paint jobs,crooked decals ,ect...but l dont see them ever really doing this...they are just talking!
HES WAY OFF SAYING CHEAP TRACTOR PAINT,left outside for two months,in the can,TURNED RED INTO ORANGE ,then white!..the only step up from Orsheln paint is acrylic enamel at 5TIMES THE COST,,,