Hey I'm Jack Olivia's husband, how about a short piece of garden hose to cover the part of the all thread to keep from damaging your head stock couldn't you?
Thank you for sharing this Mr. Halligan. I own a Southbend 9C which I am reburbishing. I am about to reassemble the headstock and your video is a great help.
I just started watching your videos as I am beginning the process of rebuilding my SB 9 Model A with the under mount drive. Can you provide the part number for the bearing you installed on the left end of the head stock? Thanks!
Awesome documentary you have. I just started stripping down my Model A 9x48. Where did you get that nice shiny placard from for the thread and FPR chart?
@@Halligan142 Ordered the last one off of ebay today! lol. Thanks for the reply. Your videos are a real gem. I finally started taking the plunge to do my 9a. Thank you!!
The headstock is scraped to fit the bed at the factory. It sits on a V way which aligns everything and cannot be adjusted. Any misalignment in the headstock compared to bed is usually from bed twist which can be taken out using a precision machinist level to level the lathe.
Hopefully you still monitor this post. Have a SB 9", A model and it needs painting. Paint, do you remember the type and color etc. that you used? Thanks
It's a custom paint match using Sherwin Williams all surface enamel. Look back to one of my first few videos called stripping a lathe for new paint. The paint code should be on that video.
Great to see you putting things back together Greg. Looks like a great little shop. Had to chuckle at the belt thing...reminded me of the first time I did the belt on my old Logan. Glad you left it in the video! Cheers Colin
Hi Greg, Absolutely great tutorial on assembling the head stock and back gear. Just one small tip on adjusting the depth of mesh on backgear to head stock, put a piece of paper between the two gears when adjusting to give the correct (or close enough) mesh clearance. Many thanks as I have a Southbend copy 9" A model Hercus of 1954 vintage here in Australia which I am trying to source a set of 'V' belt cone pulleys for, to replace the flat belt pulleys but no luck so far. They are like rocking horse poo!! I can get the back one but not the headstock one with the gear on. Cheers.
If any one has a problem obtaining the needle bearings for the South Bend 9 or light 10 another set of numbers are 1) needle bearing NTA2233 2) ground washers TRA2233
I had to laugh! I Watched this video at least a half a dozen times. I'm redoing my first SB 9A and I've seen so many people say DO NOT forget to put the belt on. As I'm watching yours I'm thinking he forget to belt on. Well I just put my spindle in and before I drawed it together I forgot to put mine on, LOL. Easy fix. I'm still shaking my head.
Yeah that makes sense on the pricing. I just put a deposit on a 13x40 South Bend tool room lathe w/tapper attachment I need to go look at it hear it run, but it looks to be in really good condition.(Its at a Machine shop) I'll keep in touch and let ya know how it turns out if your interested maybe you can answer a few questions for me AND No I won't drive you bonkers with a ton of stupid questions every day either just every other day lol just kidding- Keep up with the good videos !
I just picked up a south bend 9a for cylinder turning. I have a wick kit coming to restore lubrication and this video was a great tutorial on the head stock. Thanks for all the details
Well most people wouldn’t have left that part in there actually both parts,, but not that spinning over and over and the fact that you forgot the belt,, but it is a common mistake,, many many people have done the same thing,, and I admire I love fact that you didn’t leave out the reality behind a lot of this stuff… I have learned a lot on your channel.. keep up the good work..
Finally got the drywall up and you can get on to the fun stuff. You know you could've gotten away without us knowing about the belt, so I gotta hand it to ya for that! lol Awesome job on the lathe.
Super Lube is the wrong grease for the cone pulley. Super Lube is too thick. The clearance in the cone pulley is very tight. The proper "grease" is like a heavy oil I quote from a South Bend lathe user group: "The very thin DE112 grease from South Bend is definitely NOT SuperLube, or anything of the sort. Any reference to SuperLube or other ordinary grease is dis-information. You can get the real thing at: . As a test, I did a manual greasing of the cone pulley with SuperLube and there is no question that the viscosity-induced drag in this very large-area bearing would be excessive. That's why I asked this question in the first place. So my solution is to stick with oil for the limited use that my lathe will see." Unquote.... or if it says oil on your cone pulley use Type C gear oil each time you use the back gear.
Hrmmmmm.....interesting. I guess I'll have to buy it and do a comparison. Super Lube was recommended to me from multiple sources and is actually recommended in the rebuild book Steve sells. I'll order a batch from Steve and do a little video on it.
Hey Halligan, new to the channel. I got a 1940's lathe at work that we got from the USN. Well it had been pretty abused and not well taken care of over the last 80 years...so I decided it would be a good idea to take it apart, remove all the old paint layers(could visibly notice over 6 different layers as i scraped it off), anyways, im putting the headstock back together and i actually broke the take up knot in half as i was trying to get it over the grooves, that in turn made the screwdriver break loose and i ended up cracking the fiber washer as well. (For the record, I have absolutely zero experience working with lathes or anything else like this as im an IT guy, this just seemed like a good way to start getting into it.) So my questions are about the needle bearing and the take up knot you mentioned in your video, for some reason the link that was supposed to pop up as you were talking about them didnt actually show up. SO hopefully you know of where i can buy those? I appreciate your time and videos, they have been a huge help throughout the process.
McMaster Carr 5909K39 for the bearing assembly 5909K53 (2 required) for the .031 hardened and ground washers. For the nut search McMaster under split collars and find one that's the same thread pitch. I don't know off hand what it is so you'll have to measure and check.
I watched this for the third time and learned something every time. In the book I have on this lathe, the book states there should be .005 clearance on the spindle where it meets the head stock. Of course mine was way to much, so I took it all apart again, I did move it quite a bit, but was never able to achieve the .005 clearance. I noticed in this video it looks very close to the head stock and from my view looks pretty close to .005. Did you measure it or press it in until it stopped. Maybe I need a bigger wrench when tightening : -) .The lathe runs fine as is.
Spindle is original. If your machine has plain cast iron bearings chances are you can just run them as is. I've seen completely trashed cast iron bearing heads run perfectly fine.
Good video on installing the spindle. Could you do me a favor and make a video on setting the gear mesh/lash of the idler and forward reverse gears and the lower gears. I set mine with paper and they have a little bit of lash (paper out) but they are very noisy, even after lube. Would like to hear yours as many say they are noisy, but that is a pretty subjective term, and would like to hear yours. I hesitate to run mine much until I know it is OK. My lathe is a SB 9A Thanks for all your videos
I show it here Southbend Compound Large Dial Conversion- Part 3 This is from before I converted the lathe to a quick change gearbox. What I do is loosen the clamp nut slightly on the banjo. Mesh the gears tight. Start the lathe then slightly tap the banjo down widening the gear mesh until it gets quietest. You'll never be able to remove all the noise. They are straight cut gears spinning kind of fast. Think manual car in reverse doing 30 and that gearbox is swimming in fluid.
Greg; Rather than using small allen wrenches to try and trap the springs on the oilers, would a small nail be easier to use since you could then just push it into the felt, regardless of where the spring is? Been there myself on the forgot the drive belt more times than I like to think about on my lathe. I just pull the bearing caps and lift out the whole mechanism as that is easier on my lathe than trying to remove the bull gear. Keep up the videos, you do an excellent job of explaining what you are doing each step of the process. Regards; Ron Kluwe
Great video, I know nothing about lathes but I m trying to learn as much as I can from you and others on here (Tom'sTech, Mr pete,just a few that I think are really good) What size lathe is that? I have been looking for one for a while they are either to big or way out of my price range It would seem that South Bend is a good lathe as there aren't many out there and those that are are bad shape over priced or to far away to get lol anyway keep up the good work! Nice shop too
It is a 9 x 54 Southbend. The long beds in the 9" side are a little rarer than other bed lengths. Southbends are super popular because there were so many made and when they were made the smaller sizes (9", 10", 10L) were billed primarily as a home shop lathe. Plus parts are readily available unlike some other lathes in this similar category like say the smaller Sheldons and Logans. Funny thing is usually as the lathe gets larger the price decreases. The Heavy 10 aka 10L is very desired because it is small yet extremely capable. You will see these going for 800-1500 in my area depending on ltooling and they do sell. I saw a good condition 16" southbend sit for months on cragslist for 500
LOL The belt thing has nothing to do with being stupid. For what it's worth, I have called me a lot worse than that. You just keep on keepin' on man. Good videos.
Yup I have 2 videos of test bars for tailstock alignment. Machining a Test Bar Making a simple test bar Two Collar Lathe Alignment Test 2 collar test bar
This lathe is from the late 1930s to mid 1940s. Everything for this lathe is available online. Google "South Bend 9 inch". Regards, Talita in Ellisras, South Africa.
So the thrust bearing gets pressed on through the bull gear by the drive pulley? Wouldn't that mean that the bull gear would rub the pulley when putting thrust on the spindle when in back gears. For example drilling a hole using a large drill bit in back gears where the drilling operation could exert significant force on the spindle e.g. 3/4in drill bit enlarging a hole from 1/2in in steel. There should be another thrust bearing between the back gear and the pulley.
The rear thrust bearing sits between the bearing casting and a lip on the spindle. It never actually touches the cone pulley. You can see the change in diameter of the spindle ~ 12.58 in the video. There is a few thousandths clearance between the bull gear and the thrust bearing to allow it to move freely when the back gear is engaged.
***** At 22:30 you clearly show the bull hear binding with the cone pulley. If that happens as a result of tightening the thrust adjustment nut than it will certainly happen as a result of putting thrust on the on the spindle from the tailstock. Nice lathe BTW, I have a 1940's 9A with that is a bit odd (has no serial numbers).
Hello Halligan I just found a good condition headstock to replace my old bad once. my old one as you know is flat bearing just same like yours in this video. but I found one with lines to hold the oil, the seller says it's high speed version! do you think it is good upgrade or to stay with same old style is better? as I found another headstock flat like my headstock too? just confuse which one is better to go with? and I bought semi new spindle from ebay :) thank you for all of your answers and help.
The segmented bearing goes with a 12 speed lathe. The one with 2 steps on the motor pulley. The slots are there to prevent the oil from slinging out of the bearing during the higher speeds. That is the better version. You can eventually upgrade if you find the 2 step countershaft pulley. These usually come up in eBay from time to time with the shaft attached and without the whole motor mount/flat pulley set up. The 2 step motor pulley can be had from any industrial supplier. You don't gave to source one from another Southbend.
***** oh great, I just bought this countershaft www.ebay.com/itm/SOUTH-BEND-9-LATHE-COUNTERSHAFT-/131473728509?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e9c71e3fd and I will go head and search for 2 steps motor pulley! I am glad to contacting you and get these valuable information!
great videos man!! I just picked up a south bend 9" lathe yesterday. It is exactly like yours but without the gearbox. I want to do the conversion a bit later as well as restoring it. Paint is a little beat up and it is missing a few small things. How much HP does that motor have? And where did you get the back gear from? Mine is missing a couple teeth on the smaller gear. Let me know man. Great videos once again. I spent most of the evening watching your stuff. thanks for sharing the knowledge.
The motor is 1/4 hp and is original. They were available with up to 1/2 hp from the factory i believe. Remember though these are old motors so the 1/4 hp rating is not the same as a modern 1/4 hp motor. Manufacturers fudge the numbers a lot. The replacement back gear was sourced from e-bay.
***** thanks man!! I also have a 1/4hp motor on mine. It is a Dayton motor and not sure how original it is. Thanks again for the reply. I'll look on ebay for the backgear.
What type of motor are you using and what type of power? Do you plan on getting a VFD device? Thanks for the informative videos... .Larry in Sacramento
It's the original 1/4 HP instant reverse GE motor that came with the lathe in 1950. Works fine for me so I won't be changing it. I don't mind a step pulley.
Greg, You really have to bust your ass to get the headstock reassembled! It's good to see her back in action. Install your chuck, do some fine tuning and you'll be making chips before you know it! Good luck! Regards, Dave
Yep just got it all leveled a day ago all cleaned up and oiled. Organized my tools for once. Now just have to realign the tailstock and move a couple other things in the shop.
Besides e-bay you can check out www.plazamachinery.com www.tools4cheap.net and you can also contact Ted who used to work for Southbend and sells NOS stock. You can find him on the PM forums under SBLatheman
It’s an automotive Serpentine belt. Any auto parts store or McMaster Carr will have it. Just measure the length you need by using a tailors tape measure or a string wrapped around the pulleys with the countershaft in the tightened position.
Per Southbends Updated lube charts. Permanently grease back gear shaft and cone pulley OR you can do it the old way and add oil to back gear shaft and cone pulley everytime you engage the backgear.
+Dan'sMeTube It;s a 54" 4 rib belt. I purposely got a slightly longer belt. Either measure your leather belt and do a search or if you have no belt run a length of string around y our pulleys where the belt would go and measure that.
Thanks a lot for sharing your work on your Southbend Headstock Assembly. Really neat. It was the height of frustation to miss the belt in the pulley only to be discovered after assembling whole of Headstock. I can imagine that as it happens sometimes. Thanks for the Video.
Could you tell me the purpose of the sliding knob that is located on the bull gear? Mine was pushed in but i was playing with it, and pulled it out, and now i am unable to put it back. Any help would be appreciated.
+hugoballs This disengages the bull gear from the cone pulley to allow you to engage the back gear for slower speeds through gear reduction. Just put pressure on the pin and rotate the cone pulley. You'll feel the hole that it goes into and it will pop in.
I love to watch your work! I learn a ton from you! Thanks for posting these.
Thanks!
Sure is smooth running, and yeah I was yelling Greg you forgot the belt..lol Looking forward to seeing what you have in line for projects..
Very nice. Also, great to see that somebody besides me forgets the damn belt!! ;)
Glad I could make you feel better :-)
Hey I'm Jack Olivia's husband, how about a short piece of garden hose to cover the part of the all thread to keep from damaging your head stock couldn't you?
Thank you for sharing this Mr. Halligan. I own a Southbend 9C which I am reburbishing. I am about to reassemble the headstock and your video is a great help.
I just started watching your videos as I am beginning the process of rebuilding my SB 9 Model A with the under mount drive. Can you provide the part number for the bearing you installed on the left end of the head stock? Thanks!
Ever try any LUCAS OIL treatment on those gears.
(It clings to the teeth) might help
I kept saying, "Don't forget the belt," but you didn't hear me. :) Great video.
I know it's an old video, but you can use the tail stock to push the shaft in rather than all the bs with the wood and all thread.
i tried yellin but you wouldnt listen!!! forgot ur belt!!! lol
Awesome documentary you have. I just started stripping down my Model A 9x48. Where did you get that nice shiny placard from for the thread and FPR chart?
@@tdg911
I got it on eBay when I reconditioned the lathe.
@@Halligan142 Ordered the last one off of ebay today! lol. Thanks for the reply. Your videos are a real gem. I finally started taking the plunge to do my 9a. Thank you!!
Great video! I was wondering if you could show us how to line up the headstock to the ways. Thanks for video Craig
The headstock is scraped to fit the bed at the factory. It sits on a V way which aligns everything and cannot be adjusted. Any misalignment in the headstock compared to bed is usually from bed twist which can be taken out using a precision machinist level to level the lathe.
Hopefully you still monitor this post. Have a SB 9", A model and it needs painting. Paint, do you remember the type and color etc. that you used? Thanks
It's a custom paint match using Sherwin Williams all surface enamel. Look back to one of my first few videos called stripping a lathe for new paint. The paint code should be on that video.
I done that to had to take it all apart.
désoler de te dire que tu a oublier la courroie je ces dure de filmer et de tous expliquer en aime-tend
continu je me suit abonné
Great to see you putting things back together Greg. Looks like a great little shop.
Had to chuckle at the belt thing...reminded me of the first time I did the belt on my old Logan. Glad you left it in the video!
Cheers
Colin
Hi Greg, Absolutely great tutorial on assembling the head stock and back gear. Just one small tip on adjusting the depth of mesh on backgear to head stock, put a piece of paper between the two gears when adjusting to give the correct (or close enough) mesh clearance. Many thanks as I have a Southbend copy 9" A model Hercus of 1954 vintage here in Australia which I am trying to source a set of 'V' belt cone pulleys for, to replace the flat belt pulleys but no luck so far. They are like rocking horse poo!! I can get the back one but not the headstock one with the gear on. Cheers.
Kkkkkk, calma isso acontece, kkkk.
If any one has a problem obtaining the needle bearings for the South Bend 9 or light 10 another set of numbers are 1) needle bearing NTA2233 2) ground washers TRA2233
I had to laugh! I Watched this video at least a half a dozen times. I'm redoing my first SB 9A and I've seen so many people say DO NOT forget to put the belt on. As I'm watching yours I'm thinking he forget to belt on. Well I just put my spindle in and before I drawed it together I forgot to put mine on, LOL. Easy fix. I'm still shaking my head.
Yeah that makes sense on the pricing. I just put a deposit on a 13x40 South Bend tool room lathe w/tapper attachment I need to go look at it hear it run, but it looks to be in really good condition.(Its at a Machine shop) I'll keep in touch and let ya know how it turns out if your interested maybe you can answer a few questions for me AND No I won't drive you bonkers with a ton of stupid questions every day either just every other day lol just kidding- Keep up with the good videos !
I just picked up a south bend 9a for cylinder turning. I have a wick kit coming to restore lubrication and this video was a great tutorial on the head stock. Thanks for all the details
Well most people wouldn’t have left that part in there actually both parts,, but not that spinning over and over and the fact that you forgot the belt,, but it is a common mistake,, many many people have done the same thing,, and I admire I love fact that you didn’t leave out the reality behind a lot of this stuff…
I have learned a lot on your channel.. keep up the good work..
Finally got the drywall up and you can get on to the fun stuff. You know you could've gotten away without us knowing about the belt, so I gotta hand it to ya for that! lol Awesome job on the lathe.
I was yelling at the monitor when you were putting that thing back together the first time! BELT! BELT!
Ahh you frum Rveahhh?
I had a comment all typed out about not forgetting the belt when i herd the bleeping and i then knew you had figured it out :-) nice video
At 19:48 I lmfao It's funny when it happens to someone ells, But i've been there many times and know the pain. Great video.
How about doing a video of the back gear application. always look forward to your videos. thanks
I wonder if it would be less work to remove the C/S instead of the spindle. Don't feel bad, I've forgotten that belt too.
shouldn't you be using a flat that's almost the width of the pulley so it keeps it from uneven wear?
Nice idea on the compression tool out of blocks of wood on all thread.
Super Lube is the wrong grease for the cone pulley. Super Lube is too thick. The clearance in the cone pulley is very tight. The proper "grease" is like a heavy oil I quote from a South Bend lathe user group:
"The very thin DE112 grease from South Bend is definitely NOT SuperLube, or anything of the sort. Any reference to SuperLube or other ordinary grease is dis-information.
You can get the real thing at:
.
As a test, I did a manual greasing of the cone pulley with SuperLube and there is no question that the viscosity-induced drag in this very large-area bearing would be excessive. That's why I asked this question in the first place. So my solution is to stick with oil for the limited use that my lathe will see."
Unquote.... or if it says oil on your cone pulley use Type C gear oil each time you use the back gear.
Hrmmmmm.....interesting. I guess I'll have to buy it and do a comparison. Super Lube was recommended to me from multiple sources and is actually recommended in the rebuild book Steve sells. I'll order a batch from Steve and do a little video on it.
Where did you buy the brass oilers that are on your motors spindle?
Kitts industrial
Hey Halligan, new to the channel. I got a 1940's lathe at work that we got from the USN. Well it had been pretty abused and not well taken care of over the last 80 years...so I decided it would be a good idea to take it apart, remove all the old paint layers(could visibly notice over 6 different layers as i scraped it off), anyways, im putting the headstock back together and i actually broke the take up knot in half as i was trying to get it over the grooves, that in turn made the screwdriver break loose and i ended up cracking the fiber washer as well. (For the record, I have absolutely zero experience working with lathes or anything else like this as im an IT guy, this just seemed like a good way to start getting into it.)
So my questions are about the needle bearing and the take up knot you mentioned in your video, for some reason the link that was supposed to pop up as you were talking about them didnt actually show up.
SO hopefully you know of where i can buy those?
I appreciate your time and videos, they have been a huge help throughout the process.
McMaster Carr
5909K39 for the bearing assembly
5909K53 (2 required) for the .031 hardened and ground washers.
For the nut search McMaster under split collars and find one that's the same thread pitch. I don't know off hand what it is so you'll have to measure and check.
I watched this for the third time and learned something every time. In the book I have on this lathe, the book states there should be .005 clearance on the spindle where it meets the head stock. Of course mine was way to much, so I took it all apart again, I did move it quite a bit, but was never able to achieve the .005 clearance. I noticed in this video it looks very close to the head stock and from my view looks pretty close to .005. Did you measure it or press it in until it stopped. Maybe I need a bigger wrench when tightening : -) .The lathe runs fine as is.
I just checked with some feeler gauges. It's between .009-.010 I just pressed it in until it stopped.
I just picked up a lathe exactly like your is there a rebuild kit for them. And what color paint did u use ?
It's Sherwin Williams all surface enamel with a custom color match. I think one of my earlier videos of the gearbox has the color code.
Who made your new spindle? I'm thinking I need to have my head-stock rebuilt. I have a 1936 9 inch Workshop lathe.
Spindle is original. If your machine has plain cast iron bearings chances are you can just run them as is. I've seen completely trashed cast iron bearing heads run perfectly fine.
Good video on installing the spindle.
Could you do me a favor and make a video on setting the gear mesh/lash of the idler and forward reverse gears and the lower gears. I set mine with paper and they have a little bit of lash (paper out) but they are very noisy, even after lube.
Would like to hear yours as many say they are noisy, but that is a pretty subjective term, and would like to hear yours. I hesitate to run mine much until I know it is OK.
My lathe is a SB 9A
Thanks for all your videos
I show it here Southbend Compound Large Dial Conversion- Part 3 This is from before I converted the lathe to a quick change gearbox. What I do is loosen the clamp nut slightly on the banjo. Mesh the gears tight. Start the lathe then slightly tap the banjo down widening the gear mesh until it gets quietest. You'll never be able to remove all the noise. They are straight cut gears spinning kind of fast. Think manual car in reverse doing 30 and that gearbox is swimming in fluid.
Greg;
Rather than using small allen wrenches to try and trap the springs on the oilers, would a small nail be easier to use since you could then just push it into the felt, regardless of where the spring is?
Been there myself on the forgot the drive belt more times than I like to think about on my lathe. I just pull the bearing caps and lift out the whole mechanism as that is easier on my lathe than trying to remove the bull gear.
Keep up the videos, you do an excellent job of explaining what you are doing each step of the process.
Regards;
Ron Kluwe
Thanks! The felts are super dense at the tip. If you have a nail that could easily pierce it rather than squish it that would work too.
Great video, I know nothing about lathes but I m trying to learn as much as I can from you and others on here (Tom'sTech, Mr pete,just a few that I think are really good) What size lathe is that? I have been looking for one for a while they are either to big or way out of my price range It would seem that South Bend is a good lathe as there aren't many out there and those that are are bad shape over priced or to far away to get lol anyway keep up the good work! Nice shop too
It is a 9 x 54 Southbend. The long beds in the 9" side are a little rarer than other bed lengths. Southbends are super popular because there were so many made and when they were made the smaller sizes (9", 10", 10L) were billed primarily as a home shop lathe. Plus parts are readily available unlike some other lathes in this similar category like say the smaller Sheldons and Logans. Funny thing is usually as the lathe gets larger the price decreases. The Heavy 10 aka 10L is very desired because it is small yet extremely capable. You will see these going for 800-1500 in my area depending on ltooling and they do sell. I saw a good condition 16" southbend sit for months on cragslist for 500
LOL The belt thing has nothing to do with being stupid. For what it's worth, I have called me a lot worse than that. You just keep on keepin' on man. Good videos.
Just don't call me late for supper :-)
Wow that lathe runs quietly!
I own a South Bend 9c lathe and I like would to view the making that test bar in detail. Keep up the good work Halligan 142.
Yup I have 2 videos of test bars for tailstock alignment.
Machining a Test Bar Making a simple test bar
Two Collar Lathe Alignment Test 2 collar test bar
Poor bugger you have an oil tank. I had to fill mine three times this long Canadian
winter.
Yup we went through about the same. We get 1/2 tank fill ups and even that hurts.
@ 19:50 - fenner drives to the rescue!!!
How old is this laith. I bought a similar one. Would like to obtain a manual for this laith.
Nico South Africa
This lathe is from the late 1930s to mid 1940s. Everything for this lathe is available online. Google "South Bend 9 inch". Regards, Talita in Ellisras, South Africa.
hey can i contact you? i just got a south bend lathe i thinks is 1934 Model C, 9" swing 4' bed
Email halligan142@gmail.com
Great video could you give me a make and part number on that belt your using thanks
It is a Gates K050500
You forgot the belt!
So the thrust bearing gets pressed on through the bull gear by the drive pulley? Wouldn't that mean that the bull gear would rub the pulley when putting thrust on the spindle when in back gears. For example drilling a hole using a large drill bit in back gears where the drilling operation could exert significant force on the spindle e.g. 3/4in drill bit enlarging a hole from 1/2in in steel.
There should be another thrust bearing between the back gear and the pulley.
The rear thrust bearing sits between the bearing casting and a lip on the spindle. It never actually touches the cone pulley. You can see the change in diameter of the spindle ~ 12.58 in the video. There is a few thousandths clearance between the bull gear and the thrust bearing to allow it to move freely when the back gear is engaged.
***** At 22:30 you clearly show the bull hear binding with the cone pulley. If that happens as a result of tightening the thrust adjustment nut than it will certainly happen as a result of putting thrust on the on the spindle from the tailstock.
Nice lathe BTW, I have a 1940's 9A with that is a bit odd (has no serial numbers).
Hello Halligan
I just found a good condition headstock to replace my old bad once.
my old one as you know is flat bearing just same like yours in this video.
but I found one with lines to hold the oil, the seller says it's high speed version!
do you think it is good upgrade or to stay with same old style is better?
as I found another headstock flat like my headstock too? just confuse which one is better to go with?
and I bought semi new spindle from ebay :)
thank you for all of your answers and help.
The segmented bearing goes with a 12 speed lathe. The one with 2 steps on the motor pulley. The slots are there to prevent the oil from slinging out of the bearing during the higher speeds. That is the better version. You can eventually upgrade if you find the 2 step countershaft pulley. These usually come up in eBay from time to time with the shaft attached and without the whole motor mount/flat pulley set up. The 2 step motor pulley can be had from any industrial supplier. You don't gave to source one from another Southbend.
*****
oh great, I just bought this countershaft www.ebay.com/itm/SOUTH-BEND-9-LATHE-COUNTERSHAFT-/131473728509?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e9c71e3fd
and I will go head and search for 2 steps motor pulley!
I am glad to contacting you and get these valuable information!
The shops coming along nice!
great videos man!! I just picked up a south bend 9" lathe yesterday. It is exactly like yours but without the gearbox. I want to do the conversion a bit later as well as restoring it. Paint is a little beat up and it is missing a few small things. How much HP does that motor have? And where did you get the back gear from? Mine is missing a couple teeth on the smaller gear. Let me know man. Great videos once again. I spent most of the evening watching your stuff. thanks for sharing the knowledge.
The motor is 1/4 hp and is original. They were available with up to 1/2 hp from the factory i believe. Remember though these are old motors so the 1/4 hp rating is not the same as a modern 1/4 hp motor. Manufacturers fudge the numbers a lot. The replacement back gear was sourced from e-bay.
***** thanks man!! I also have a 1/4hp motor on mine. It is a Dayton motor and not sure how original it is. Thanks again for the reply. I'll look on ebay for the backgear.
What type of motor are you using and what type of power? Do you plan on getting a VFD device? Thanks for the informative videos...
.Larry in Sacramento
It's the original 1/4 HP instant reverse GE motor that came with the lathe in 1950. Works fine for me so I won't be changing it. I don't mind a step pulley.
Larry Hughston '
Greg,
You really have to bust your ass to get the headstock reassembled! It's good to see her back in action. Install your chuck, do some fine tuning and you'll be making chips before you know it! Good luck!
Regards,
Dave
Yep just got it all leveled a day ago all cleaned up and oiled. Organized my tools for once. Now just have to realign the tailstock and move a couple other things in the shop.
Swarf Rat Love your name its a Cream song
Swarf Rat Love Your name its a Cream song
What is a good source of parts for South Bend? Looking for the sliding gear for a 13.
Besides e-bay you can check out www.plazamachinery.com www.tools4cheap.net and you can also contact Ted who used to work for Southbend and sells NOS stock. You can find him on the PM forums under SBLatheman
Ted (Latheman) got me the part. Thanks
I see how you press it on how do you get it off?
Olivia Bishop I have a diasassembly also. It's just the opposite. Put the pipe over the other side of the headstock and pull from there.
Where do u get the belts for this lathe?
It’s an automotive Serpentine belt. Any auto parts store or McMaster Carr will have it. Just measure the length you need by using a tailors tape measure or a string wrapped around the pulleys with the countershaft in the tightened position.
Dude! You are clogging the oil grooves with the grease!
Per Southbends Updated lube charts. Permanently grease back gear shaft and cone pulley OR you can do it the old way and add oil to back gear shaft and cone pulley everytime you engage the backgear.
What belt number (length) are you using? I want to put a serpentine belt on mine.
+Dan'sMeTube It;s a 54" 4 rib belt. I purposely got a slightly longer belt. Either measure your leather belt and do a search or if you have no belt run a length of string around y our pulleys where the belt would go and measure that.
Thank you!
7pk1370. 25mm by 54" or 1370mm. 7 rib. If you want a wider belt that fits the pulleys.
K
Thanks a lot for sharing your work on your Southbend Headstock Assembly. Really neat. It was the height of frustation to miss the belt in the pulley only to be discovered after assembling whole of Headstock. I can imagine that as it happens sometimes. Thanks for the Video.
Birender100 tagger.
Could you tell me the purpose of the sliding knob that is located on the bull gear? Mine was pushed in but i was playing with it, and pulled it out, and now i am unable to put it back. Any help would be appreciated.
+hugoballs
This disengages the bull gear from the cone pulley to allow you to engage the back gear for slower speeds through gear reduction. Just put pressure on the pin and rotate the cone pulley. You'll feel the hole that it goes into and it will pop in.
***** thanks! i tested it and everything is working now. i appreciate your time.